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Acura CL



  • ineto6ineto6 Posts: 161
    You can use it for a long period like a month or more, but when the rest of the car begins to look dirty then you should take it off. Basically, remove before every car wash and wax the car well before putting it back on. You'll have to wash the mask as well since it is likely to collect road debris.

    jrent - I am not sure that you got a good trade-in deal. Maybe a thousand more would have been better. You might want to use Edmund's appraisal or KBB next time for future reference. As far as side molding, I've read that some people use the ones for the Accord or bought some custom ones from PepBoys.
  • crazyclcrazycl Posts: 2
    I just brought my new 2001 Aura CALL into the dealership to have the windshield replaced. The Aura person described the problem as "rippling" in the windshield. I drove off in a loner CALL that had the same problem. Then I talked to a friend that has an identical CALL and he said it was the anti-reflective coating!?! Has anyone else noticed the rippling? I notice it on the passenger side when I am in the driver's seat. I also notice it when I walk up to my car (10-15 away) and look at the windshield area from an angle. Straight lines are distorted.

    By the way, the dealership has replaced the windshield twice. Same problem. They are now suggesting after market glass. Any ideas?
  • juiceyjuicey Posts: 7
    The Accord Coupe side molding is epoxyed.
    With my CL-S I got the Acura Bra. Not to crazy about one of the ways that it goes on under the hood. It hooks with these pieces of plastic in a funny way. But, it fits like a glove and looks wonderful. My car has not been driven with out it and never will. It is not a bad idea to wax the covered surfaces at least every other time you clean the car.
  • jwk4jwk4 Posts: 5
    I bought the new CL type S. I must say a wonderful car. The owner's manual recommends for the break in: avoid hard acceleration and hard breaking for the first 600 mls. Since I drive 70 mls on the highway and with 2000 rpm, I figure this should work out fine. (correct me if I'm wrong). But my gas mileage seems to be lower than Acura advertises. (30 mpg vs the 22 I'm driving) I now have 350 mls on it. Does the mileage improve???? Do I break in the car correct???

    thanks for any response.

  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,095
    ...but I'm dropping by to see if any CL owners would be interested in having an Acura CL Owners Club on the Owner's Club Board.

    Let me know if you are interested!

    Owner's Clubs

    Edmunds Manager UGC Click on my screen name to send a personal message. Need help navigating? Check out Getting Started in Edmunds Forums.
    Need help picking out a make/model, finding inventory, or advice on pricing? Talk to an Edmunds Car Shopping Advisor

  • ineto6ineto6 Posts: 161
    during break-in interval, I think you should try to vary the speed you drive also. Constant and prolonged driving at one time is not recommended in some car's manual. My mpg during break-in got as high as 24mpg, but I did mixed driving. I've been getting over 28mpg for highway only driving. I've posted my mpg in a news and view topic and earlier in this topic.

    Other things to consider, did you use A/C? Did you have windows down? Did you have the moonroof open? How high did you rev the engine?
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    on a rolling launch ie. those 5 - 60 mph runs that C & D likes to time? The reason I find is that the tranny shifts into 2nd too early. It's like as soon as you start to roll the tranny goes into 2nd. And then when you punch the gas the tranny gets confused and hesitate for a split second between 2nd & 1st before it pops back into 1st.
  • In my experience, that is common for a Honda V6 engine. I noticed with 2 previous Accord V6 engines I had. It's just a slight pause before the car takes off when you punch the gas.
    I now own a Toyota Solara with a V6 and I have not noticed this tendency when i jump on the gas pedal.
    I am curious if you notice the same problem when using the "sport" shift mode?
  • mrdeeenomrdeeeno Posts: 53
    it's the tranny. you can bypass that by moving the shifter all the way back to 1 if you really want to hold 1 that badly.

    it may also be traction control/vsa...when you stomp it and it downshifts to 1, it'll probably kick in 'cuz the wheels are on the verge of slipping.

    so try turning off vsa/tcs.
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    using sportshift wouldn't help since ss automatically shift into 2nd. mrdeeeno's suggestion of turning off VSA may work.
  • wijgwijg Posts: 2
    My passenger side outside mirror stopped rotating down while in reverse--I only have 3700 miles. Has anyone else experienced this? Is this covered under the regular warrenty? Thanks.
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    Is your mirror adjustment switch in the neutral position? I think it only rotates when that switch is in the neutral position. But in any case, it is covered under warranty.
  • wijgwijg Posts: 2
    Yeah, I tried the mirror adjustment switch in both the neutral AND right positions and it still would not rotate down when in reverse...tho I found it strange I was still able to ADJUST same mirror with switch. I'll have them look at it when I take it in for my first oil change this week--thanks.
  • mrdeeenomrdeeeno Posts: 53
    i'm not talking about using ss to start on 1, mean moving the shifter all the way back to D1.
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    I knew what you meant. I was actually responding to phatnastycat's suggestion of using the SS for a rolling launch. Your method would hold the tranny in 1st for sure, but I've always hated shifting an auto tranny manually that way -- too easy to overshoot the next gear.
  • A guy at posted a dyno slip of his new TL-S with Comptech headers and a new Cold Air Intake (CAI) ... His dyno slip showed a 30hp increase.

    Keep in mind that MSRP on those parts alone are around $1400+ ... But 38hp at the wheels is pretty damn nice =)

    Dyno Sheet

    It's on the first page. Just keep scrolling down =)

  • bbobabboba Posts: 3
    I've heard it from someone who has an Acura. There is no free oil change and you have to go to Acura for maintance every 6000-7000 miles. Doesn't sound true... How is it? How much is the maintenance?
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    Actually just free oil for life. I pay for the labour. However this practice varies from dealer to dealer. Haven't taken mine in for service yet so couldn't comment at this time as to quality and cost of service.
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    that the front end of the new 2002 TL-S looks bitchin'. Much better than the CL-S's.
  • juiceyjuicey Posts: 7
    At what RPM is the VTEC supposed to do its thing. I have heard both 3800 and 4800. I can definetly hear a difference at 4800. Which is correct. Thanks.
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    Nothing happens under 4K with any of Honda's VTECs
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    I thought the warmer weather would lessen the rattles. Well it may be true but not for the sunshade. The darn thing has been rattling something fierce lately. Everything is quiet if I pull it shut but I feel claustaphobic with it closed. I'm sure others have posted about fixes for this problem. Does anyone recall if there is a known cure or a TSB or anything?
  • s852s852 Posts: 1,051
    The weather is not going to fix it. You need to have the dealer fix it. It is extremely common on both Accords and CLs, so the dealer should know how to fix it.
  • There is definitely a fix. At there are two very cool service people from a good Acura dealer that post on that board. They can tell you the TSB number and what it does.
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    Such a nice car, if only it didn't rattle like a damn tool box!
  • juiceyjuicey Posts: 7
    So you say 4800 RPM. That is when I notice it. In the forums, everyone says 3800. I have also seen 3800 written somewhere, don't remember. Can anyone clear this up for me.
  • juiceyjuicey Posts: 7
    Just read something else. I think I am talking about two different things. I believe that VTEC is 4800 and the air intake thing is 3800. HELP. Just want to make sure that mine is working properly.
  • I am really surprised to read about some of the issues/problems/complaints with the CL, especially being a Honda product. I realize that no car is flawless, but some of these complaints should not be occuring in car in this price range. I can't stand having creaks and rattles in a car.
    An Accord I owned previously had a squeek in the dashboard that I could hear but never quite pinpoint the location of to get it fixed. It bugged the absolute (edited for content) out of me for the 2 years I owned the car. I can tell you the stereo sure got a workout to compensate for the distraction.
    AS much as I love the 260HP engine and the many standard options available in the CL-S, I don't know that for me it is worth it.
    What's up CL-S owners? If you had the option again, would you still buy the car? Perhaps the 2002 will bring about some improvements. Until I hear different, I am leaning towards the 2002 Lexus IS300.
  • mrdeeenomrdeeeno Posts: 53
    i've had my car for a year now (bought back in end of march '00). only 1 rattle which I fixed myself in 2 minutes.

    what other problems are there? the sunroof thing is nothing major, just a design flaw (the thing raises too high so it resonates with the wind, but they have a fix for it).

    that's it.

    and being made in america, it's not bad at all...if you do get an is300 (made in japan), you'll realize listed more major problems (bottom engine covers falling off, doors popping, nasty smell under hard acceleration, etc.) vs any squeak and rattle in the cl-s. and it wasn't isolated cases knew about the engine covers (not major part, just the plastic cover on the bottom...bolts were too tight or something) and doors popping when opened all the way out. i don't know about the smell thing though, but it seemed they ( people) all acknowledged it.

    if you ask for problems in a car, people will give you problems no matter how small, but htat's all they give you. you'll only see that side of a car and thinks it's crap.

    if you ask for praises about a car, they'll give you praises, no matter how small, but that's all they give you. you'll only see that side of the car and think it's godly.

    i have one of the early cl-s's made, no problems at all except for what i mentioned earlier.

    take things you read with a grain of salt, but as with all (except the passport) hondas and toyotas, you can't go wrong.
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    That's a good question. I might look seriously at the 2002 TL-S. But that is really just a CL-S with 2 extra doors (love the front end design though). The Maxima SE would be a definite candidate. Or I may go in a different direction and go for something like a Subaru VDC or a Highlander Limited. As much as I like the design and performance of European cars, I probably would not consider them because of the reliability issue. Bottom line is I still probably would go for the CL-S. I just wish I could have waited for the 2002 model to avoid the first year teething problems. You have to note though that most if not all CL-S problems so far are relatively minor (although annoying)ones such as misfit panels and rattles. No one has reported any mechanical failure.
This discussion has been closed.