Chevy Silverado - Continued XVIII

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Comments

  • eric2001eric2001 Member Posts: 482
    Easy now, I was only teasing - pot calling kettle black was for you telling someone to go buy the 2500HD, understand now? hehe

    So kick back have a porter on me.
    -Eric
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    already did....so bring more

    - Tim
  • wight1wight1 Member Posts: 218
    exxon-mobil makes all of the GM oils and lubes, so you can use Mobi11 75w-90 synthetic lube just fine. I've been using it in my 2000 model 2500 for the past 23,000 miles (including about 6,000 miles towing a 6500# travel trailer) with no problem. On my last gear lube change at 24,000 miles, I switched to Royal Purple 75w-90 synthetic. I sent Royal Purple an e-mail about their product, and they sent me a message back confirming their stuff does meet the GM spec #9986115. Their message also said it met all GM warranty requirements.
  • mpalombompalombo Member Posts: 186
    I could search each of these 3702 messages to find what I know is out there but I think I will just ask...

    I remember somebody listing a part number for Chevrolet mud flaps that would fit with factory flares. I think the message said something about getting the 11" flaps? I was at the dealer today and I had the guy look up the part number. He said it is 12497448. 11" flat mudflap with bowtie logo. Does anybody know if this is in fact the one that fits with the flares? He did say that I can bring it back if it doesn't fit.

    Thanks,
    Mark
  • jaguar0027jaguar0027 Member Posts: 387
    I am pretty positive the Chevy does not make mud flaps that fit. Ive tried with no luck.

    I would get yourself a set of Husky's unless you want to wait for Chevy to come out with something.
  • lurdis2lurdis2 Member Posts: 1
    new here, so i'm hopin you guys/gals will help me as i'm about to make a new purchase. current truck is an ext. cab LB, but have decided to go back to shortbed. usually i only carry acrylic materials but sometimes as much as 1600lbs.
    how do you folks wth the 3/4 ton trucks like the ride. might go with flares this time too, but i rely on you all to tell me the pros and cons on flares.
    thanks
  • modvptnlmodvptnl Member Posts: 1,352
    Dear Mr. Lurd,

    I would definitly get the widest flares you can to cover the offset Dayton wire wheels you'll be getting. Don't forget to use plenty of Zaino on the gold plating for your new ride. Of course the ride will be more harsh through the chain steering wheel you'll have.

    Don't forget to transfer all that expensive stereo equipment from the old truck.

    Good luck on your new purchase!
  • rchrisliprchrislip Member Posts: 8
    Hi guys,

    I'm shopping for a custom air intake system and thought I would ask the panel of experts whether a K&N system or an Airaid intake system would work better on my 2000 RADO crew cab 1500 5.3.

    Thanks guys

    Ron
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    My sermon about K&N filters, about once a year, is to not use them. Yes, they flow more air, give more horsepower etc, but hold one up to the light. When you see the size of some of those holes, you have to ask the question. Do you have a filter?

    But to answer the question, the Air Raid system uses the K&N filter element.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Let me WELCOME you to this wonderful board.
  • eric2001eric2001 Member Posts: 482
    You hosting now??? I see it is bab not Z71 currently, you taking prozak for the personality disorder? LOL
    -Eric
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    yea i should be a host. Im a pretty cool guy arent I? As for the personality disorder edmunds wont delete the ryanbabz71. I am breaking the rules as we speak cause i am have 2 names and i could possibly deceive someone

    yea right thats easy to do
  • eric2001eric2001 Member Posts: 482
    You have my vote for host of the year!
    -Eric
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    But all the oil will hold back the dirt quad!....but what stops the oil from getting sucked in?..hmmmm

    I'll take the factory high flow one thank you...

    No 50's technology oiled sponge for me!

    - Tim
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    Good points Tim. At Fay Myers Motorcycle world, they have a K&N display with two filters, a stock paper and oiled K&N gauze type. With the K&N, the ping pong ball floats at the top of the tube, (proving less resistance and more flow), when you put the paper filter in, the ping pong ball drops to the bottom of the tube. That's the good news. But hold the K&N up to the light, I see plenty of holes you can look right through. The K&N is oiled from the factory giving it the red color. You CAN goop it up with more red filter oil, but on my '91 Mustang 5.0 HO, oil fouled my intact tract runners too. I'm sure this is not the last word on the subject, but it is from me. I've used them. They do give more horsepower, but engine longevity is worth more to me. Especially for a truck.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    got a question for ya. Tomorrow i am having my pass side rotor either turned or replaced (not totally sure). Is there any special break in i should do? Saturday i am taking about a 200 mile fishing trip.

    Thanks
  • eric2001eric2001 Member Posts: 482
    that the K&N does flow more air when new/clean. The stock filters smaller particles, but when dirty, the stock flows more air than the K&N, without letting particles into your motor.

    I too have tried the K&N, call it a learning experience.
    -Eric
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    it allows more air...cu zit has huge holes!...and some oil to make it a filter.

    But yeah....oil down the intake ain't good folks...and there is a fine line between enough oil to catch the dirt and too much to where it lets loose the crud.

    I have the high capacity filter from GM....almost 36K miles..same element..and the meter has barely moved....had it out recently...looked a little dirty..but hey..it's doing it's job!

    I relate oiled sponges to my dad's old (very old ) Yahamha when I was a kid..

    - Tim
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    To answer your question....

    The KnN FIPK is a better setup (and cheaper) than the Airaid. Hope this helps....
  • txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    looks to me like a big ripoff. I bought one for my '99 for something like $290 + tax. I think if you used the K & N (or GM hi cap) and maybe enlarged the fender well opening would do just as much for less money. And maybe fit a foam ring around the opening between the box and fenderwell (without the stock gasket which would no longer fit anyway ).
    The thing that really ticked me off was on the paper work INSIDE the box it says "for off-road use only"! NOT on the outside, never seen it mentioned in any ads. I called Airaid and was told that it's "because they aren't emissions approved". I also told them what I thought of the kit but unlike dealing with Flowmaster, was never offered any refund or anything in the way of satisfaction for that matter. I bought the kit 200+ miles away while visiting, so couldn't return it to Dealer. I wouldn't waste my money on Airaid. At least not for the LS1. There was more to the kit for the Vortec 350's.
  • tomh12tomh12 Member Posts: 240
    Any idea why you are having the brake problem? Haven't heard of this problem being very common. I remember a while back you rotated your own tires. Any chance you warped the rotot by over-tightening the lug nuts? Did you use a torque wrench when tightening? Inquiring minds want to know. LOL
    Tom
  • rchrisliprchrislip Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for the info on the AirRaid and K&N systems. I'm thinking now that I will just save that money and buy some custom rims and tires. I'm still working on the Flowmasters, then rims and tires and maybe a GM hi-capacity filter. This sure is fun! Takes me back to the 70's when I had my 69 Mustang Mach 1!

    Ron
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Rotors werent warped they were rusted and pitted which was causing an annoying squeak. Only took about 2 hrs for them to remachine the rotors and replace the pads all under warranty. No squeeks as of yet. THe rotors look brand new all shiny

    Ryan
  • mrurlmrurl Member Posts: 116
    Time to invest in a torque wrench. There is a TSB out about excessive torque warping rotors. If the tire rotation was done by GM, they will replace under warranty, but if it was done at an outside shop (your garage) you are out of luck.

    Peter
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    ARENT WARPED they were rusted and pitted
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    Since they already fixed Ryan's warped rotor problem, it's too late to point out that squeaks are usually caused by vibrations between the pad and piston caliper. New brake pads often have shims on the back side to prevent the squeak. Another method is to apply anti-squeak grease to the back side of the pads.
  • michgndrmichgndr Member Posts: 160
    ALL noises are caused by vibration.

    Ryan just probably forgot to put the summer pads on his brakes.
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    Or he's still running the winter air in his tires...
  • 4x4man4x4man Member Posts: 222
    Ahhhh yes, the famous blue stuff!!!
    Winter air?? Well maybe he still has the old summer air in his tires??!!
    Thankfully the dealer topped off my tires with Summer air when I bought it, would've stopped the whole purchase if not!! :-0

    Bob
  • sdpiersonsdpierson Member Posts: 69
    Thanks for the oil info.
    It's interesting about the Mobil 1. I called them and asked if it would meet the GM specs. and they said, "no it did not".
    Castrol also said it did not meet the specs.
    Valvoline and Red Line said they meet the GL-5 specs which meet the GM specs.
    Who do you believe?
    It is good to know you have used it for 24,000 miles without a problem.
    My truck is going in today to change the pinon seal. It is seeping. So if I'm lucky they will drop the oil and change it on their dime.
  • sdpiersonsdpierson Member Posts: 69
    I have a ext cab shortbed 4x4 2500.
    I went from a f250 ext cab longbed 4x4.
    The ride is softer than the ford.
    Some have suggested running the tires at 40 psi for a better ride. I found that to be too soft, it floated too much.
    I now run the tires at 60 psi when empty and 70-80psi while towing. That keeps it from bouncing.
    I have not rode in a 1500 so I can not compare, but the ford f250 felt more stiff.
    I think it rides great.

    The flares come stock on a 2500 4x4, so you have no choice. I also added the husky mud flaps.
    Although I do not like the flares at all, I suffer with them because they work very well at keeping the dirt and paint chips at bay.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    .man...I get a bridge to sell ya too Pal..

    what a waste

    ..Ryan...ALL rotors will quickly rust pal...and if they are nice and shiny...then they were not turned...as turned rotors are dull until they have the brakes applied and shine them up a bit...

    haha

    I bet 2500 brakes wouldn't warp like yours did?

    LOL

    - Tim
  • tomh12tomh12 Member Posts: 240
    Those 8 lugs make it less likely to warp the rotors than the measly six on the little 1500's. Of course the rotors are larger and stronger, too. Could be Ryan's truck is out of balance because of the extra Z71 stick-on.....
    Just kiddin' Ryan, glad it wasn't anything serious and it was covered by warranty.
    Tom
  • bcobco Member Posts: 756
    got an email from mikey and thought i'd drop in on ya. not gonna bore you with the whole story of moving and whining about not having any time with the new job and such... just wanted to say hi. also...the tundra guys were right about the turning radius advantage of tundra, and i proved it for 'em. where i live now, i have a spot in a parking garage. well, the tip of my antenna scrapes the ceiling in spots as i go up. and, since there are hairpin curves at the bottom of each level, if you're careless (like i was) you end up bashing the outer rear flank on the passenger side. needless to say, the whole thing may need replaced, unless i can find a great body shop. wish i could show you pics, but i don't have the digital camera anymore. LOL! anyhoo...other than that, life is pretty good. just turned 25k and she's still running like a charm (even into concrete walls!). mobil one since 5k. no regrets. gonna go check out this newfangled owner's forum thing now. see how that works and what not...

    kyle
  • trucks4me2trucks4me2 Member Posts: 31
    MPALOMBO..I put on the dealer mud flaps and they fit fine with the flares. I used the same screws and added a couple more in several spots. The flaps have the chevy bowtie and are 17" tall and 11" wide. I think I paid $12.00 a pair. Hope this helps.

    Stan
  • blackmax200blackmax200 Member Posts: 255
    check page 2-14 of your owners manual...you do know where it is?
    hope this helps...
    matthew
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    welcome back brudduh....Glad to hear all is well. So ya got a scar now eh?.....if it were a Tindra..you would need frame repair as well??

    LOL

    Enjoy

    - Tim
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    are you asking if ryan knows where the manual is? or where the brakes are? or how to find page 2-14?

    ROTFLMFAO!!!!!
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Put about 65 miles on my truck today (4 trips to menards for a water heater, ceiling tiles, mulch/pea gravel, and another water heater trip)

    Didnt notice any squeaks.

    Tim when i said shiny i meant silver not rust colored anymore. They didnt look like the plastic chrome on our mirrors. They had scratches in the rotors but they were silver not the ugly rust color. Im sure after the winter the same thing will happen because of all the road salt/snow. Guess ill be pretty good at brake jobs in the future eh?

    As soon as I find a place with a decent price on bilsteins i am switching out my shocks.

    Side note anyone ever play midnight club for PS2? Jess wanted my keys after playing that game tonight

    Ryan
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    I am outta here for the rest of the weekend. Gonna spend some time on the lake fishing.

    Tim i was at the grocery store and seen some guiness for $5 something for a 6 pack. I think this is a great weekend to relax with a fishing rod and enjoy a cold one

    Have a great weekend everyone

    Ryan
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    are the bottles.....different taste all together than the 4 pack cans. (now also 8 and 15 packs)

    4 trips to menards?....ya know with a 2500 you wouldn't have to go in steps...could haul it all at once Pal!

    LOL

    Enjoy

    - Tim
  • mpalombompalombo Member Posts: 186
    Thanks for the mud flap info. I think I'll try it, the parts guy said I can bring them back if they don't fit so I really have nothing to lose.
  • bigbassmanbigbassman Member Posts: 4
    In process of ordering 2002 2500 Silverado 6.0/3.73 I pull a 20' bassboat tandem axle brakes etc. I don't think I need the firm ride suspension package which is 36mm shocks, standard are 32mm front 35mm rear. I would sooner like the smoothest ride as I can get from a 3/4 ton truck but don't wish to make a mistake. I have been pulling with a 97 Tahoe and pulls fine. Anybody have any similar situation? Boat is about 3500lbs full.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    rides very well......either way you are not going to have a 1500 ride in a 2500

    - Tim
  • bigbassmanbigbassman Member Posts: 4
    Yea I drove an 2001 with the firm suspension option rode very good compared to other makes. I am going to 2500 for the 6.0 and suspension for towing, just wandering I would think the 2500 standard suspension would handle a 21' bassboat easily and better than a 1500 with z71. I have pulled with several 1500 back to "88". But this is the biggest boat I have owned and it makes my Tahoe squat in the rear. The 350 pulls fine but afraid to go down in torque on the 5.3 1500, thats why I am going 2500 6.0. Any view point appreciated.
  • valkyvalky Member Posts: 21
    I believe I found the fix for the missing gear feeling on acceleration. I have a 2001 EC 1500 2WD and from day one I had this annoying feeling from both take-off and stopping.

    When I would stop and the back-end settles, I would not feel a smooth motion. I would have this secondary bump. When accelerating I would then feel this small shudder, like lash being taken up between gears. I bought the GM lube that they use to lube the splines on the tranny tail shaft and drive shaft yoke. I pulled my drive line and lubed the splines myself. What I noticed when I put the driveline back in place and the carrier bearing back to factory position, is the yoke would bottom out against the tailshaft. I went ahead and left it at factory position to see if there was a difference.

    I drove the truck since last weekend, and nothing has changed. Well, I installed the power tailgate lock from R&D Acc. today and had the truck jacked-up off the ground at both ends, so I had plenty of room to pull the wires to the front of the truck. While I was under there I noticed actually how much movement there is at the yoke and tailshaft. There is about 1/4 inch of movement in and out. What I did was to loosen the carrier bearing nuts just enough to move the carrier bearing back towards the rear of the truck 1/8 inch. I made sure the bearing was straight and re-tightened the nuts and took her for a 20 mile stop and go drive. The back-end settles smooth now, with no sloppiness on take-off. I'll report later after I have more miles on her.

    Anybody else who has this problem should try this fix. All you need is either a 15mm wrench or a 15mm deep socket and ratchet. Very easy to do. Should 1/8th of an inch help, but not totally correct the problem, try another 1/8th. Should this fix everybodies problem, perhaps GM may make this into a TSB. Hope this helps.

    Valky
  • eric2001eric2001 Member Posts: 482
    You said your Tahoe is squatting when towing your boat? How much tongue weight does your boat have? Do you try and balance the boat over the axles? If the tahoe is dropping down, it seems that the weight of the boat is too far forward on the trailer. Just a thought.
    -Eric
  • bigbassmanbigbassman Member Posts: 4
    My boat rig is a 2001 Ranger 520VX, 225 Yamaha. Ranger is a Cadillac when it comes to bassboats, the trailer is all made and fit at Ranger factory for the boat. This is my first tandem axle rig can't easily check tongue weight, but the boat pulls great and the Tahoe does not ride or bounce any different then you would think it should. I just think the Tahoe has a soft suspension under it for smooth ride. This is my 5th boat rig and use to pull with truck's or the old big Blazer's years ago but put heavier gas shocks on them to help handling. Since I am ordering my first 2500 truck was just wondering if the firmride shocks from the factory is needed unless you where going to snow plough or pull a 5th wheel trailer a bassboat rig is not all that much weight. Thanks for any comments.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Tim i need a 2500 to go to menards to save trips? Well heres the run down. My store didnt have a water heater had to go to another place. Got it came home and it was thew wrong one. Needed a 30 gallon electric and grabbed gas by mistake. Go back they dont stock electric. So i run to a larger menards which had it. Then i had to go to my menards to pickup ceiling tiles for my dad and mulch/pea gravel for my mom. 2500 would have been more of a waste on gas.

    Trip -

    Brakes are alot better for now. Noticed light film of brake dust all weekend. Must be the new pads breaking in. Never knew a tailgate could come in so handy. Used it as a saw horse to cut some 2x4's and plywood. Only bad thing was saw dust all over. And i backed the truck down by the lake (on our property) and setup a lawn chair in the back and sat and fished for hrs.
    Got pretty good mpg also havent filled up yet and im around 300 miles.

    Ryan
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    A 1500 will have no trouble pulling your boat. My dad pulls a 6000# trailer with his 1500 - and he has 3.42 gears! And he pulls it throught the hills of eastern Iowa.

    He has a test hill he has to pull up and the 5.3 will increase speed up this hill. His 98 350 would start at 60 at the bottom of the hill and be down to 45 at the top. From his experience with his 6000# trailer, the 5.3L engine is a much stronger tow vehicle than the 5.7L it replaced.

    If you are seriously interested in a car like ride, look into a 1500 - it will pull your load. If you want a solid truck then look at the 2500.

    Mike L
    99 1500 4x4 4.8L 5spd
    00 2500 4x4 6.0L 5spd
    Deadhorse, Alaska 6-6-99
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