Chevy Silverado - Continued XVIII

wight1

do you know offhand the muffler number? I assume yours is single in and dual out?

lspangler

I picked up a brocure from the dealer for the 2002 trucks and when you get the quadrasteer you get a different box. Apparently the axle is slightly wider so there are dually fenders about 2 inches wide on the truck and because of these, a half ton will have fender lights and cab markers. It looks kind of goofy on a half ton truck.

punjab

I have been looking for some quality plastic bed caps, but haven't seen anything worth a darn. Either they don't have the stake holes, or a front rail cap isn't available, or they only protect the top and maybe 1/4" down the side. The last place I checked said that GM now made a "factory" one that went down the side about 1" or more.

Do you have anymore info?...part number, front cap available, are they smooth, ribbed, diamond tread...Thanks

4x4man

I believe this still works...if you don't have the option to press the dome overide 4 times in a row, you could just engage the e-brake one notch and that should shut the lights off. I haven't tried this on my new truck, but knew it worked on my 97 half ton.
Good luck!

Bob

4x4man

Ryan,
Normally I change fuel filters every 30K or so.

Bob

obyone

Sorry but mine's is single in single out. Was told that this was best for performance.

stobar

Got a question for you fellow owners. I've got my 2001 Silverado (5.3 2WD Ext. Cab) in the shop right now and am expecting to pick up tomorrow. One of the items I wanted them to check was the Emergency Brake as the pedal goes all the way to the floor. The Service Advisor just informed me that they inspected it and it is working just fine. They state that in the new trucks, the emergency brake pedal does go all the way to the floor. True or not? Could you check yours and tell me if that's a true statement? Will give me some leverage if I find out they are blowing smoke!
Thanks,
Barry

obyone

This is true. Reasoning behind this is that owners in the past have complained on the excessive effort required to secure the parking brake. The new design allows for virtually no effort setting of the parking brake by either you, me, or a 90 lb. woman.

mdw1000

Yup, my 99s goes all the way to the floor as well.

Ryan, I just had mine changed at 29K by the dealer. Never changed one of these - is this a do-it-yourself kind of job? If I remember right, it only cost me 40 bucks or so to have the dealer do it.

How often are you guys changing other fluids, like trans, transfer case, and front and rear diff?

mgdvhman

41 K and still on the same one.....

- Tim

rayt2

How many Rado owners were given a supplemental service brochure (other than whats in our GM manuals) for their trucks by the dealers ??? My dealer would have me changing all kinds of things by HIS schedule but none of it coincides with the factory recommended change intervals. Me thinks he is making big dollars on unsuspecting owners & young first time owners.
What was it W.C Fields used to say "a sucker born every minute"

Wight1, have you checked out the Borla Cat Back system ??? I run that on my Rado and I don't think it is quite as loud as what Obyone's running on his but you know it's there and oh so sweet a sound, without the finger gesture in WOT that Oby has evidently seen. Check out my profile for link to pictures if you care to!

On a sadder note will be attending a funeral on Saturday for fellow firefighters lost at WTC tragedy. NYFD has lost a large number of their own and are reaching out to us Volunteer Firefighters to come to their aid with attendence at the funerals, so I will do my part for them. They found another 60 firefighters last night in the stairwells (we have a member at our firehouse who also belongs to NYFD EMS who was called in on his day off to help retrieve the bodies) but this has not reached the news media as yet. Bin Laden will pay dearly for this!!!

Ray T.

mikeb31

Here for all the information I've read over the last two months. I hope the 2002's don't have the engine noise problems. Found a dealer today who will sell me the 1500 LS, 5300, heavy duty suspension, trailering special, AM/FM CD W/Cas aluminum wheels bucket seats 3.73 axle, electrical convenience pkg. $100 over invoice. Found the truck on GM buy power. I had already found out that I could get it at $200 over invoice from my brother-in-law's dealer in Porterville CA a 3 hour drive and then a local dealer called about an e mail I sent yesterday and I told him about the deal and he said he would do it $100 over the invoice. Exchanged all the information over the phone, just have to go down and pick it up, he said it would take 45 min. Just don't know when. It was listed at their dealership but he said it was in transit and could not track it because the changed the security at Norther Burligame and would know tomorrow, can't wait.

stobar

First off, thanks for the info on the emergency brake. On the Fuel Filter, I have always changed mine at 15K. I have always changed:
Oil & Filter - 3K
Air Filter & Fuel Filter - 15K
Tires rotated & balanced - 6K

Probably overkill, but it's worked for the past 20 years and 5 Chevy's. My brother-in-law is still trying to convince me to switch to synthetic oil, but I keep telling him "no way man, oil & filter has to go at 3K". Anal I guess!
Barry

minikin

My Chevy dealer didn't do this, supplemental service brochure, but a dealer I bought one of my Accords from did. At least they had the decency to to offer an in-house 100K power train waranty if I followed it. Still didn't do it; easier to change my own oil, etc.

It's amazing how much respect fire fighters and cops have been getting the last three weeks. Too bad something like this had to happen to get them what they've always deserved.
-- Don

mgdvhman

followed the 3K with oil too...since Mobil 1.....wait until the light comes on...(4500 average) and then a couple thou' after that sometimes....

Fuel filter has always been abused I guess?....and no problems so farr

- Tim

..and yeah..every 6-7 K for tire rotation has kept these F-stones in an awesome tread wear pattern...

- Tim

hillhound

I got the bedrail caps at the Chevy dealer that I bought the truck from. The cost was $136. They are ribbed and have a padded texture similar to I guess the same stuff the black GM fender flares are made of and they are flexible, you can't crack or break them-in fact they came boxed in a package the size of a large showbox and they were rolled up! The dealer had them in stock along with rigid caps-when I asked the parts guy which he liked he said the flexible ones stayed down better. They cover the inside lip of the rail but don't come down over the outside of it.

They went on easy-the tape is already mounted to the bottoms. As far as the front cover I don't know. I have a bedliner that comes up and covers the front rail so I never checked on it. I've washed it several times and got soap and water under them as so far they are perfectly flat. If you want to email me your email I'll send you a few pictues of it. I can't find the part# but if you're serious about it I'll be happy to call the Chevy garage where I bought it and get the #-they keep a record of everything you buy. Later.

mikeb31

I'm going to pickup my 2002 ls silverado in a couple of days and I checked out the side view mirror. They suck. Black with a plastic chrome center, I think it needs to be painted by "Ryans side mirror painting Co." ha ha Seriously this trucks is mostly going to be for work and I don't see myself doing a lot of 'extra' work on it except normal maint. maybe a sprayed on bed liner and ladder rack or shell, but the contractors shells look like s*#@#*. I have a 1951 Chevy truck sitting next to my garage and a 1986 Corvette 'body damaged junk' in the garage. Planning on a front & rear suspension and drive train swap, if I ever get some time off.

ryanbab

Bring it on over

txyank1

of "customizers" have replaced the current mirrors with the previous ones. Solid black stock, or nice and smooth to paint completey to match the body. I do like the looks of them better but the new ones give you a better view.

erikheiker

I also wanted a 4X4 S-10 with a long bed, and was disappointed they don't make them anymore. I settled for a Sierra 1500 and am quite happy with it. It isn't much longer than the S-10 and it is much roomier and more comfortable. For your particular needs, I'd skip the Z-71 package, as it is a stiffer ride. A V-6 might work for you if mileage is a real consideration. As for axle ratio, a 3.42 will give you the best mileage. I had one in my S-15 and I had plenty of power. AutoTrac is really great if you do a lot of winter driving. It basically engages/disengages the front wheels as it senses slippage. Probably not available with the V-6 though, but I'm not absolutely certain. So here is what I would get based on what information you provided. V-6, 3.42 rear axle...be sure to get limited slip rear end, and skid plates. As for the kayak, there are roof mounted carriers that lower the kayak to the ground.

mdw1000

The manual recommended at 30k, and I had it in thee dealer for warranty work at 29k, so i went ahead and had them change it.

As far as oil goes, i do the same as Tim - mobil1, change after the light comes on.

Does anyone know if the dealer can do the speedo reprogram for different tire sizes? I'm thinking maybe this one just doesn't do it. If I'm going to buy the hypertech, I don't want to use it for just that, but I don't want to run 93 octane.

obyone

Dealer can reprogram for tire sizes up to 265/75R16. With Hypertech you could program for 93 octane performance OR 87 octane. Your choice.

jmessz71

The drivers bottom seat springs at times squeak. I've also noticed this in a friends Silverado. Anyone know the cause or better yet the fix to this problem? Also the drivers window appears to "grind" when rolled up and down. Almost as if the window is rubbing against the runners. Anyone have similar problems or resolutions?

obyone

Good reminder. Thought it was only me with the seat spring noise. Dealer had an upholstery shop look at it twice with no luck and insisting that since they paid the upholstery shop that they want to sent it back to them a third time. See anything wrong with this picture?

Sorry no experience with the grinding windows.

mdw1000

That makes it much more tempting....

quadrunner500

I thought I had a seat spring squeak. Turned out it wasn't. It was the seat belt LATCH. A thin dab of clear petroleum jelly applied on the flat end fixed it.

obyone

I would hope that it was the latch. Unfortunately, it makes a distinctive sound of a spring (boing) LOL!! So I can verify that it is the spring.

ryanbab

guess whats shipping out today guys

MY SHOCKS!!!!!

They are leaving california today

noobie1

Thanks a lot for the info.

-David

mgdvhman

..I was able to enjoy a night out much better knowing that last night

LOL

- Tim

blackmax200

LOL
matthew

mgdvhman

what is was?...but old Hockey Town was rockin' last night. Had front row tix for the ballgame last night....rained out game.....ended up at the bar down the street...(with everyone else!).....was a good old time.....

almost was a flop.....but knowing Babs had his shocks coming made it all right

LOL

Enjoy Babs

- Tim

4x4man

I tried the worthless search feature and didn't have the luck I was looking for..
Ryan I remember a time a while ago that someone had posted pics on how to take apart the dash. I thought for sure I bookmarked the site, but cannot find it. I have a metal rattle sound under the dash and want to fix it myself. Anyway I remember you also talking about using foam insulation or something like that, can you give me some insite as to what you used to clear up the rattle??
Thanks,
Bob

obyone

http://www.installdoctor.com/InstallDocs/GM/PickUps.html

ryanbab

i used some foam i got from my dad. it was about 3/4 to 1" thick. Sticky on the backside.

4x4man

I can get as far as taking the front dash piece off to expose the gauge cluster and radio, but cannot figure out how to take the top of the dash off to get to where I think the rattle is coming from. Is it possible to take that top piece off??

Ryan how did you get the top piece of the dash off or how did you get to your rattle to fix it?
I see numerous screws into the top of the dash when I remove the front dash piece, but there must be more I am missing as I still cannot remove it.
Thanks again guys for your help..

Bob

ryanbab

Its been so long i cant remember. All i did was pull the dash apart from the autotrac to the radio. And tucked foamabove the instrument cluster. Id take my dash apart and take pics but last time i tried to do that the rattle came back and it took me over 3 wks to fix it again

Honestly the apporoch i took was to put some foam close up the dash drive down some bumpy roads. If it was still there went back home and fixed it. Took a few trips but finally got it

4x4man

I would feel really bad if you tore it all down again. Don't worry about the pics as it sounds like I had exactly what you had apart so this is a good thing. Mine sounds like it is coming from the center of the dash, so maybe I'll take the radio out as well and see what I can stuff in between the dash as well as above the gauge cluster.
Thanks again

Bob

gator36

Just got back from a poker run in the desert. Didn't win a thing,
had a full house but tht wasn't good enough. But my 01 Z71 did
excellent all weekend. Everything I threw at it was no sweat.
(Still too new to go too gonzo) Hung around alot of the Obstacles
on the course and helped to pull out a few vehicles. The truck just loved
the desert trails and is still putting a wide smile on my face...

biker56

Can anyone tell me where to find the wires from the aux lamp switch? I have a 2000 3/4 ton silverado and I would like to use the switch to run some extra backup light while plowing snow. I don't always need these extra lights when backing up so connecting them to exsisting back ups don't interest me. The switch is intended for roof mounted clearance lamps.

blackmax200

biker...
check out this link to my web site that has some info you are looking for:
Silverado Auxiliary Lamps

Though I wanted to use the aux lamp switch for head/driving lamps, I think that if you get the switch and the short harness that goes to it you can get the rear plow lamps to work for you. I think that I still have the pin-out id's for the connectors. E-mail me if you need some further info

matthew

sonjaab

The wires for the aux lamp switch run
up the left side by the rear seat past
the rear seat belt anchor to the roof.
(behind the plastic pieces)
You have to take either the rear seat
out to take off the plastic piece or
take out the headliner to fish out the
wires. PITA !!!!!..Check out Blackmaxs
site for schematic (spl). Or go over to
the 8100 thread and ask for 75 V. He's
been there on this one too. Used his to
power aux gas tank.....Confused ? e mail me
bradshawg2@aol.com.............Geo

BTW don't waste time with Mr Dealer...
they don't have a clue...........

sonjaab

BTW The 2 wires you are looking for are
Brown and Black (ground). don't know the
gauge of them but they are big........
I see you are a plow head and its almost
that time. Check out www.plowsite.com
Lots of help with plow stuff over there.
Can't wait to whip on my 01 pushing
that snow.......................

mpalombo

My rattle is in the center of the dash also. Above the radio like yours. The strange thing is, I only have it in the cold weather. All summer it's quiet and in the winter it comes back. I started taking it apart last winter and I couldn't get it off. I think my problem was the grab handle on the passenger side. I asked how to remove it a few months ago, I'll post the responses that I received below. I haven't tried it again but I'm sure I will soon. Just to give credit where it is due, I'm not sure who gave me the first response, I'm sorry if your reading this. The second one was from Matthew (blackmax200).

-------------------------------------------------
The first step is to remove the trim ring on the dash which surrounds the gauge cluster, radio, etc. This simply pulls right out. You may have to move the shifter and steering wheel around in order to get the ring off. Now, remove the radio. Simply push the black retaining tabs together and the radio will pull out. Next, remove the now visible screws from the dash cover. Remove the plastic A-pillar covers. Now, using a butter knife type utensil, pop out the AC vents. There should be a couple of screws to remove from the dash cover here. You must now remove the "Oh ***t" handle from the dash. Reach in through the AC vents and you should see/feel the white retaining clips that hold the metal retaining rods of the actual handle. Squeeze these together and the handle should pull right out. Now, recheck for any screws and remove the dash cover. You must pull straight back and it may take a little force, just do not break anything. Once the dash cover is loose, reach up and remove the light sensor from the dash cover by unscrewing it. Now, disconnect the wire leads from the sensor. Insert one end of the resistor into each side of the wire lead connector to form a closed circuit. Now, to keep the resistor from falling out, simply wrap the connector in electrical tape. Finally, reinstall everything as you uninstalled it.

-------------------------------------------------

The first instruction is to disarm the air bag system...don't know if this is necessary or not but why take a chance. (I pull the fuse, but there may be some power left in the capacitors to detonate, so watch out for YELLOW wires)
As you have done, remove the trim plate bezel.
Remove the dash end panels(fuse cover on left and the one on the right just like it).
Remove the air diffuser vents; left(includes lamp switch and 4WD switch if equipped), right and right center(one by the radio leave alone)
Now I have to go to another volume of the service manual...To get the left out, pull on the housing that all the switches, diffusers are in. Be careful to remove the plugs for the switches and I will tell you this the harnesses behind don't give much room for movement, so be gentle but firm! There are 4 spades that hold the unit in the dash carrier(one in upper left hard to see, but it is there).
To remove the right center and right, set the diffuser toward the driver, then "firmly pull the air outlet to the left in order to release the outlet from the instrument panel". Illustration shows fingers of both hands pulling on inside of outlet with diffuser turned toward driver.
Now that you got that far, back to the first volume.
"Remove the assist handle by depressing the release tabs accessed through the air outlet duct holes." On your own here, buba...haven't needed to go this far.
Remove the windshield pillar garnish mouldings...pull toward you starting at the top.
Remove the bolts retaining the pad to the instrument panel assembly.
>Disconnect the electrical connector to the ambient light sensor as you are lifting the dash pad.<
To assemble, reverse process.

--------------------------------------------------

Good Luck,
-Mark

seelig

you get the shocks yet?
gonna install em right away, or you gonna paint em first?

ryanbab

THEY ARENT HERE YET!!!

I am getting impatient. I already got charged for em and i want them. Hopefully they make it by saturday (i planned on doing them then)

Hopefully tomorrow my fingers are crossed

tomh12

"install right away, or paint them first?"

ROTFLMAO

Tom

seelig

you been to tim's site lately?
there's some good talk about current events......

blackmax200

think I better be adding some more stuff to my web site...hmmmmmmmmm

matthew

tomh12

No, haven't been there lately. I'll check it out this weekend. Thanks.
Tom