Chevy Silverado - Continued XVIII

dch0300

I've had my Adrian Steel single lid crossover tool box for 5 months now and I just love it.

Very well built, great quality, thick diamond tread aluminum, the locks and latch to open it are on the edges so you don't have to reach way over into the bed of the truck to unlock/lock or open the box.

It also has a 3 year warranty.

Mine cost $495 and took about 30 minutes to install.

No regrets.

http://www.adriansteel.com/products.htm

Like Tim says......"You get what you pay for"

Sears had a $300 box and it was so cheap that I could significantly bend the aluminum lid with just my hands.

-David

car3fan

Hello Everyone,

I just purchased a 2002 Chevy Silverado LS 1500 Extended Cab - Shortbox. It has the 4.8 Liter engine with the 4 speed Auto Transmission. Can anyone tell me if they've had a similar experiece as follows?

At very low acceleration from a stoplight, the transmission shifting from 1st to 2nd produces a small shudder and less than positive gear change. When I accelerate more quickly from the stop light, the shift is much smoother and more positive. I notice the poor shifting occurs after the truck has warmed up.

I have only had the truck for 6 days and have 105 miles on it. It didn't seem to do this the first few days or on the test drive, just the last few days and only when I've driven a few miles from the house.

Other than that, I really love the truck. I traded in a Toyota Tundra, which was also a very good truck, but I like the looks and features of the Chevy. The favorable financing that GMAC is offering also helped make it an easy decision.

Can anyone else share with me if they've had the same transmission issues with their truck. I'm sure there is no difference in the 4.8 liter - 4 speed auto transmission from 2001 model to my 2002.

Thanks, Nascar

obyone

The only ones that I've seen stand up to time and weather year after year are made of stainless steel. Chemicals don't affect stainless like they do aluminum............

mgdvhman

The Boards/rails/skins I have from Putco in stainless are 2 years old now...and look like brand new still...even thru the harsh Michigan winters....

They offer Stainless boxes as well.....but I think they were about 1 bill......1 BIG bill..

- Tim

buckmaster1

Thats the first thing I noticed on my 2001 5.3 with 373 rear.I went back the next day to the dealer and drove three more trucks with the same setup and all shift that way.What that is,is the super firm factory shift setting which is designed to compensate for a load on the driveline,such as a trailer or heavy load in the box.If the trans shifted luxury car smooth when the truck was empty it would slip like crazy under a load,especially if like most people you overload the crap out of your 1500 once in a while.This is the same as a shift kit which was used by racers in the 60s and 70s and( still is )to firm up and quicken shifts so that the trans plates dont rub together for a long time causing wear during a shift.If you have a chance either load the truck or just nail it from a dead stop and you will see that under a load it still shifts great and does not lug through the 1-2 shift.Hope this helps-because I had to research it on my own.Dealer just says its within spec-which is a lousy answer for a 30K cutomer.See Ya

obyone

had mine custom made by a friend...cost a couple of cases of beer.....

seelig

sounds like you are experiencing the same problem i had. i have a '00 and a '01, the '01 shift points are crisp and precise, no matter what the temp is, or whether the a/c is on or off. my '00 however, starts out with good shifting when cold, but goes to a mush/bang symptom when warmed up, or when the a/c is running. dealer is going to update the programming this week. the trans on these trucks are NOT setup for slip "ka bang" type shifting. they are suppose to go to a rev point, then drop to 2nd without the hesitation. for loads, use the tow/haul feature. also, i've ridin in a couple 3/4 ton chevies, and they had clean shift points. all the rest i've drivin were 1/2 tons, and none exhibited the symptoms we are having.

minikin

Ref -- "Tim does your truck handle like crap in the wind? Maybe its just me and my wimpy 1500"

Drop your tire pressures. You keep yours too close to max sidewall anyway. I just drove south and west through OH, KY, ID, IL, and KS after the cold front blew through Mid-Ohio Wednesday night and know what you're talking about.
35 psi ought to work out fine on your 1500; especially with those stiffer sidewall BFG's.

Try it just to humor me; and let me know how it works out.

-- Don

noobie1

In response to your post #4591: I don't have any experience with them but PIAA 980's are being discussed over on gm-trucks.com. Coinsidently, I just got my R&D headlight switch, and in the parcel was an order form describing products they offer, the PIAA 980's being among them.
It reads: "PIAA 980 DUAL SPORT; Combination fog and driving lamp allows the driver to switch instantly to meet changing road conditions. These lights fit in the same place the factory fog lights mount. The kit comes with two lamps, PIAA Quartz haloger bulbs and preassembled wiring system. Comes with detailed instructions and a lifetime waranty."
Presumably, PIAA makes quality stuff but pretty pricie too, $330. I tried to find the 980's on the PIAA site with no success. Maybe you'll fair better. Hope this helps. I agree, the stocks are pretty wimpy. They don't hardly do anything. They along with the shocks and 245's have to go.
Right now I'm working on the 245's. I can't seem to find anything that meets my criteria: Quiet but moderately aggressive looking tread A/T's. I'm reluctant to give up the 'E' load range too, and can't seem to find an LT265/75/R16 tougher than 'D'. Michelin's LTX-AT's are a good looking tire and supposed to be quiet. But 'C' ? Please!
Seems my criteria have me painted into a corner. I may have to go to a 235/85. If I'm reading the figures right it's very close to the same diameter as a 265/75 but slimmer. If you or anyone has any suggestions I'm open.

-David

eric2001

The Michelin LTX A/S & M/S are available in the 265/75s in a 10 ply. Goodyear has them in the Wrangler AT/S and Firestone has them in the Steeltex.

What are you loading in the bed, a camper or 5th wheel? Many of the 8 ply tires are rated at well over 3K #s, making a GVWR in excess of 12K. Could that fit your needs?

-Eric

erikf2

Mike L has a set of the PIAA 980's.

Mike, you out there?

noobie1

Eric, thanks for the heads-up. I'm looking into your suggestions. Actually, my hauling needs are not specific. I'd just like to keep my options open. The truck is designed to haul. So, why diminish that capacity? How 'bout a big o' boat? or horse trailer? Sumpn' fun.
Erik, thanks for the heads-up. Mike, you out there?

-David

mledtje

I have a couple of pictures of the PIAA 980 on my Silverado at:

00 Siverado 2500

http://community.webshots.com/album/1890783ldNpgTyiIr

For what it is worth, the installation was a PIA. I had to make custom brackets to mount the lights. The wiring could have been easier, but I refused to add any wires through the cowl; so I had to find an unused wire to complete the hookup with. I used the factory foglight switch and relay and wiring, added a PIAA relay and wiring for the driving lights. The driving lights only come on with the high beams, while the foglights only come on with the low beams (my choice for wiring). The foglights do NOT have a sharp cutoff! They throw light everywhere. I haven't driven in heavy fog yet, so I can't tell you they don't work well, but I doubt they will be any better than the factory ones, maybe worse.

Mike L

erikf2

Geez, Mike, you oughta highlight those air line valves in the pictures somehow - even knowing ahead of time that the "bolts" holding your license plate are actually the valves, they aren't that easy to spot! ;-)

eric2001

The 2500HD is only a 9200 GVW truck. How does 12000+ of tire capacity diminish the 9200 pound rating? This is why I was asking you... Any 'D' rated (8 ply) tire will suffice well beyond the GVW of your truck, which opens up many other tire choices for you. This is what I was trying to tell you. Sorry if I confused you more.
-Eric

minikin

Appreciate the 980 info. I was considering them, even though I really don't need the additional light right now. I've just always believed having more available light is better. And, since the fogs were there already, I figured I might want to do it right. But, I'd prefer it all fully switchable independent of the headlights and you just saved me bucks and aggravation. Thanks!
-- Don

seelig

thank you for the info on the foglamps. about the only time i use what came with the truck is when going through the mountains when going to the coast at night or early morning.
on the tires, i'm not much help to ya, as i went with Michelins. they are the best ride i've ever felt in a truck, and for the loads i carry 1 way, they are more than sufficient. super quiet tires.
for shocks, i went with the Edelbrocks, and again was impressed with the way the truck rode from then on. no hard bumps felt, even the little reflecters in the road sound like i'm running over a piece of paper. the roll action is no longer a problem either. what really helped me feel the difference was when we bought the wife's truck and you could definately tell the differece.

obyone

Keep up the good work....keep repeating yourself...and maybe...just maybe...someone will understand. ROTFLMFAO!!!!

Think there may be a relation to Ryan somewhere in here....Muahahaha

mgdvhman

It's a 9200 GVW truck....with a payload of about 3600..can haul 15,900 in a 5th wheel set up..

Tounge weight will be only a fraction of that depending on what you pull.....the rest of the weight needs to be in the strength of the hitch...as it is forward/backward strength that is needed...

then there is D rated tires and E- rated tires.....only a few lbs difference...but 10 and 8 plys.....but heat ratings also are effected here ....especially when towing......then there is...

Hey Oby....should we continue?
haha

...now what was the point again?....

- Tim

michgndr

Just stomping through after a long time off the board. It's fall...time to use the truck to get to hunting places.

Did I see that Ryan got his mirrors painted?

ryanbab

i got them painted?

No i painted them

Saved about $150

Still looking great

Ryan

erikheiker

A few weeks ago you stated: "Would i have more money? Probably not. Gotta buy the stuff now while i have a grip on my finances and someone else isnt controling that."

Want to keep a grip on your finances forever? DON'T GET MARRIED!!! That's the secret!!!

Erik

seelig

haave the link to the oil filter test site, or the one that explains about oils?
i know that guys like Obyone and Markbuck, Modvtpnl, to name a few have posted them in the past, but like a dumbell(please don't add to that) i never copied them down.
thx

blackmax200

seems to have disappeared. My link displays "page not found"

matthew

obyone

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/misc/all_oilfaq.html

not that it makes a whole lot of difference but I figured I'd post the links above anyway.

obyone

http://www.weekendmechanicsclub.com/delco/filters/oilfil.html

quadrunner500

http://www.f-body.org/oldfaq/html/tech/sect2.html#chooseoil

seelig

these links should help settle some arguments on the maintenance board.

jumpmaster82

Thanks to all who replied... Has anyone had, or know anyone who has had, the United Welding Service (UWS) tool boxes? I see a lot of 'em on construction trucks- they have the sail fish on the blue label. Any good? Thanks again.

txyank1

if go there and print it, it's 11 pages long. And that's with pretty small print.

txyank1

is only 5 pages. Then it goes into other subjects.

professor4

My 2000 Silverado 4x4 with 5.3L (19,000 miles) has suddenly developed an intermittent electrical discharge which sometimes, after sitting for 2 or 3 days, will drain the battery to the extent that it will not turn the engine. The dealer has fooled around with the truck on three occasions, and the problem is still there. All their wonderful test equipment does not show any abnormal leak, but it is obviously there.

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

bamatundra

Intermittent electrical problems can be difficult to find. Try this:

1. Shut off your truck. Disconnect your positive battery cable

2. Connect an ammeter between the positive terminal of your battery and the battery cable and measure the current. Normally, it should be milliamps. If the current is very high, this is your problem.

3. Pull out your fuses one by one until the current drops to zero. When this happens, this tells you the circuit that has the problem. I found out that the trunk light was staying on in my car this way. Good luck.

seelig

as most Tundra owners go through this all the time, but hey, what else do you expect from a toyota?

mpalombo

seeling, what a ball breaker. That was good.

seelig

too help with a possible cause on your problem, have you tried a different battery? i had a battery that had an intermittent cell(s) that did the exact same thing you described. it checked out twice as being good, and the third time we tested the battery, it tested bad. if that isn't the problem, then make the dealer honor the warranty aand fix it. if they won't then try calling these folks;
1-800-955-5100........you'll get some service then.

professor4

Bamatundra and seelig: Thanks for your input. I am on my way after this message to try Bamatundra's suggestion, and, if that does not pinpoint the problem, I know the dealer well enough to "borrow" a battery. As an aside, this particular model truck was equipped early on with some batteries that had defective posts. Mine was one of those, and this is the second battery.

I am reading between the lines here, and I could have used another word other than "leak". However, if I gave you a few laughs, more power to all of us.

Thanks, folks. I'll give you some feedback not later than next week (rhymes with leak).

hknoepfle

I am experiencing this 90 seconds of knock at start up with my 2000 3/4 ton (6.0). I am wondering if the oil cooler is robbing a bit of oil pressure at cold start?? Do all 6.0's have an oil cooler and if not, do you guys without one also get engine knock at start up? I really like this PU but man that noise bothers me!!

mgdvhman

and it does the same thing...no problems related to that in 43,000 miles...

I believe all have the oil cooler....at least 4x4's......perhaps 4x2's as well?

- Tim

bigboy3

Hey Guys,
Just bought a 2001 Z-71 with cloth bucket seats. It has the seat belts in the seats and I am having a problem finding some relatively inexpensive seat covers. I just want something to use during hunting season, to keep my seats from getting stained. I do not need anything fancy. I am getting tired of putting towels in the seat. There are alot of seat covers out there, but I have not found any that fits the type of seat I have with the seat belts coming out of the seat.
Any help would be appreciated.

ryanbab

But they look nice

Http://www.wetokole.com

mpalombo

Hey Mark,

If they are only for hunting and you don't care what they look like, why don't you get a cheap set and cut them?

Just an idea.

-Mark

danog

Bought a 2001 yesterday. It is a Black 2wd LS Ext cab. I didn't like the leather and choose the LS this time. Had to go with the third choice in color. The only trouble I had was driving in the Atlanta traffic! But it was worth saving $4500 up front and only paying $1900 interest over the life of the loan.
Later,
Dano

mpalombo

I was looking at the PV website and I have a question for you. Did you get the cat-back system or just the muffler? Is there a reason to get the cat-back instead of just the muffler?

Thanks,
Mark

obyone

There are three parts to the PV system. The venturi, the muffler and the pipe with mandrel bends. If you have a catback, you could buy the venturi and add it before the muffler. Or you could buy the venturi and the muffler and use the stock pipes. For max performance....best to buy all three making it a system. There are quite a few who have added the venturis to their flowmasters and some only replaced the mufflers...guess it depends on what you're looking for and how much you want to spend.

rayt2

I have the 2000 LS Ext Cab Shortbox w/5.3 Auto 2x4 and have same knock for 15 seconds during startup when cold. I am waiting for time to bring in for a few other issues and will mention the "knock" to dealer to document. There is more on this subject at "Chevy Silverado Problems" on this site.

Ray T.

danog

This will most likely continue until GM decides it wants to correct the problems. My last truck was at 51000 miles and had the "knock" for two years. It never got worse or effected performance.
BEWARE of dealers saying they will try some new techniques to resolve the issue.

hknoepfle

Seatcovers - I have a set of Fia covers that I ordered from Summit. Contact Summitracing.com and check out part no. FIA-TR48-8. You may find your fit is a different number but Fia has covers for all. Mine fit nice and they do a nice job on working that seat seatbelt through the cover.

sonjaab

Ok dean have a laugh now !!!!!!!!!

professor4

Bamatrunda and seelig: Still no abnormal drain showing on test equipment (mine and dealers), but the dealer did install a new battery today. Now I have to let it sit at least 2 days before I will know if this battery is dead, and even that might not be the definitive test. The service manager did say that they have had similar problems with 2000/2001 models (trucks and SUVs) and that GM is working on some new test procedures.

More later.