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Toyota Tundra Problems



  • eric2001eric2001 Posts: 482
    Sorry, didn't know on the Tundra. I would recommend a chisel/punch or even something as simple as a grease pencil for marking. But the procedure is relatively simple, but tedious.
  • arkie6arkie6 Posts: 198
    On the vast majority of Tundras that experience the thump or bump in the rear when you come to an abrupt stop, it is due to binding in the driveshaft slip yoke. When you come to an abrupt stop, the rear of the truck rises up and elongates the driveshaft (via the slip yoke) in the process. Once you come to a stop, the back of the truck settles back down and the driveshaft compresses. If the truck is in gear, there will be some rotational torque applied to the driveshaft even when stopped. This rotational torque tends to increase the sliding friction in the slip yoke. If the slip yoke is not really well lubricated or the machining is not perfect, the slip yoke will tend to bind up and not compress. Then after you come to a stop, the transmission will downshift. During the downshift, the torque on the driveshaft is released which reduces the friction in the slip yoke and it will compress rather abruptly. This is the "thump" or "bump in the rear" that you are likely feeling. As a test to comfirm, shift the transmission to nuetral before coming to an abrupt stop. If you don't get the "thump" when you do this, but you do get it when the transmission is in drive, then it is very likely binding in the slip yoke.

    Ok, now that you have determined that it is binding in the slip yoke, you can either fix it yourself or convince your dealer to do it. Dealers don't make much money on warranty repairs unless parts are replaced, so they often may opt to replace the entire driveshaft assembly, which is fine as long as they hand lube the slip yoke with some good quality grease. But replacement of the driveshaft is typically not necessary. The slip yoke just needs to be greased properly, particulary on the 4x4s. 4x4s have the slip yoke at the back of the driveshaft where it connects to the rear end pinion shaft. The 4x4 driveshaft uses 4-bolt flanges at the rear end as well as at the transfer case output shaft. The 4x2 on the other hand has the slip yoke in the tailshaft of the transmission and as far as I know (I have a 4x4) is lubricated by the transmission fluid. I have heard of 4x2s with the thump, but most problems are with the 4x4s. The 4x2s may benefit from had greasing the slip yoke splines, but I have not confirmed this.

    The 4x4 driveshaft slip yoke has a zerk fitting for adding grease; however, it is not very effective at getting grease at the point where the friction is taking place. There is a large void under the zerk fitting and it may take 30-40 pumps on a grease gun to actually get any grease on the splines, depending on how much if any grease was in there to begin with. The splines and seal are very tight and you may encounter significant resistance on the grease gun while grease is migrating along the splines. I've had my driveshaft apart examining the slip yoke and you have two options to properly grease the splines. One is to drop the rear driveshaft where it attaches to the rear end via the 4 bolts (always match-mark the two flanges to ensure you put them back in the same position - also, turn the bolts, not the nuts since the nuts have a high friction base flange to resist turning) and pull the slip yoke apart (again, match mark both halves of the slip yoke to ensure they go back together in the same relative position - the splines do have a wide spline to prevent mismatch; however, it is hard to see which one it is especially with grease on them and it's a pain trying to find just the right spot where they will slip together - match-marking the two halves before disassembly makes this much easier). Once the slip yoke is apart is then readily apparent why putting 5 or 10 shots of grease in the zerk fitting won't do any good. You can then hand lube the splines with a good quality grease. I would clean out as much of the existing grease as possible, but as long as you use a lithum base grease there should be no compatibility problems. Toyota recommends a lithium base NLGI#2 chassis grease for this. I recommend a lithium base molybdenum disulfide (moly) NLGI#2 chassis grease for this, the same grease that Toyota recommends for the double cardon joint. Once you've got everything greased up good, slide the yoke halves back together using the match marks to guide you then put the both flanges together, again using the match marks as a guide, install the bolts and nuts and torque. I think the torque is about 40 ft-lbs, but I don't have my manual handy at the moment. Torque from the bolt head, not the nut since the nut has a high friction base. After it is all together, shoot about 5-10 strokes of grease in the zerk fitting for "reserve", but you do not want it completely full as this will limit compression of the slip yoke.

    If all that is a little more than you want to tackle, here is an easier way that is probably just about as effective. Take your grease gun loaded with lithum base moly chassis grease and start pumping grease in the slip yoke zerk fitting. At some point you will encounter significant resistance on the grease gun handle and will likely note that the slip yoke is expanding. Slowly add grease at this point. You will likely see the slip yoke expand on each pump of the handle and then slowly contract. Continue adding grease for about 5-10 more strokes unless you see grease coming around the seal, then stop. Now get on the rear bumper and bounce it up and down a few times. This will tend to compress the slip yoke and force more grease along the splines. Now take a wrench and remove the zerk fitting to allow excess grease to escape. Once the zerk is removed, if a tablespoon or so of grease doesn't come out, then gently bounce on the bumper again to give it a little help. Once the excess grease is out, re-install the zerk, clean up the mess, and you are good to go.

    This was known as the "arkie6 fix" over at Tundrasolutions and it resolved many of the "thump" problems people were experiencing, mine included. I initially used the straight lithum base chassis grease on the slip yoke and I started getting a hint of "thump" after about 5,000 miles. I subsequently put in the lithium base moly (an extreme pressure additive) grease and haven't had any hint of "thump" in 15,000+ miles. My truck (2000 Tundra 4x4) now has 28,000+ miles and is "thump" free.

  • Tundra driveline "thump" by arkie6

    Well said. I pumped in Mobil 1 ( non moly ) until resistance felt, jumped up & down on the rear bumper and have not had any clunk since. I will most likely use moly on everything in the future.
  • I appreciate the advice, but that's way more than I want to tackle. Besides, the dealer should have known to lube the splines if that's the problem. It still feels like it's inside the transmission to me. I plan to discuss your fix with the service advisor.

    I had hoped when I decided to invest in a very expensive used truck, that with the reputation and backing of Toyota, I would not be saddled with design flaws, which this appears to be. This type of driveshaft maintenance, if necessary, is burdensome, if as you say, they should have put the slip yoke up front.

    I've have also noticed in places, the paint is chipping. Anybody have this problem?
  • Very good explanation of things, I think it will benefit all experiencing the problem.
  • I have a 2002 Tundra SR5 with just over 1000 miles. I have felt the "thump" from the rear of the truck since I drove it home from the dealership. Took it back yesterday to the dealer from whom I purchased the truck and they could not find anything wrong with the truck. I took the mechanic for a test drive and he told me the thunk is perfectly normal, just the truck torquing down at times. I'm not going for it and am taking it to another dealership next week. Another problem I've had is the brakes chattering or vibrating when I take off from a dead stop. The vibration is barely noticeable but I can still feel it. When reported to the dealership, they never took any of the tires or wheels off to check the linings. Am kind of fed up with the truck already after only having it for 6 weeks. One thing they did fix was a vibration coming from the passenger side (interior) compartment. The mechanic found it was an air conditioning hose coming in through the firewall. It's fixed. At least something went right.
  • ndahi12ndahi12 Posts: 235
    If you scroll up there is a very long and usefull post on how to get rid of your thump. I have the thunp as well in my 4X2 Tundra. It does not happen as much as it used to. I am begining to think that the thump happens early because the splines have not borken in. Once they have broken in, it seems that the thumps subside or go away entirely. Today I did not even have a single thump while driving to truck to and back from work.

    I say give the truck some more time to break in. I have 4K miles on mine and I still love the truck. If you still do not like your truck 5K miles from now, then sell it and get a Chevy/Ford/Dodge. I am aure that you will like those much better :-P
  • From reading these posts, and talking to the service advisor, I'm beginning to think there must a problem with this design. How can there be so many dry, unlubed splines out there? It seems like this problem is common to both 4x4 and 4x2 models, in which case, arkie6's explanation about the splines being forward on the 4x2 making it not susceptible to the thump is in error.

    If ndahi12's truck is suffering this problem with only 4k miles, this is flawed. What's an owner to do? Lubricate the splines every oil change? Splines should not need this much attention. I still think it's coming from the transmission.
  • f1julesf1jules Posts: 288
    You do not need to re-lube the splines every oil change. From what I've heard you really only need to do it once, or until the thump goes away. Once it's done you shouldn't have to do it again.
  • hennehenne Posts: 407
    Most all trucks do this and I think that solution just might fix it. I have owned many trucks and they have all pretty much done it. I think they put little lube on the spline because it doesnt really move much and I think that is where the problem is. It does move when you accelerate and brake.

    Lube it up

  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    I am also a Silverado owner but am a Toyota fan that may purchase a Tundra in the future and like to see what the problems are. For the record, I like my Silverado, but also like change.

    I can't believe Toyota and GM would both make a faulty design. What I think is happening is both manufactures have specified very tight tolerances for shaft fit to prevent vibration. This leaves very little space for grease. The closer the fit the less grease that can fit between the parts.

    Both of these trucks drive very smooth and vibration free, even at speeds near 100 mph. It was not long ago that trucks did not drive like this.
  • bamatundrabamatundra Posts: 1,583
    Don't worry about Toyota drivetrains - they have a well deserved reputation for being bulletproof.

    Tundra won the J.D Power quality award in '00 and '01. My Tundra has been flawless. I personally know of three other Tundra owners (including my brother) who love their trouble-free trucks.

    The Tundra was long-term tested by Automobile magazine - no repairs.

    The Tundra was long-term tested by Motor Trend - no repairs.

    You will not find a more capable, better built, more reliable truck.
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    Get Real. My last Toyota 4x4 truck had a transmission problem! The transmission kept popping out of first gear during acceleration. Never did it when I took it to the dealer to have it looked about aggravation. Was mine a bulletproof drivetrain?

    What you post means nothing to me. I like trucks and have bought many of them, so I have experience on my side when it comes to foreign and domestic. My last pickup truck was a Nissan 4x4. I have had many Honda and Toyota cars too. Current pickup truck is a Silverado 4x4, it is a great truck......get over it. This is not the place for your personal comments like "don't worry". I was just trying to give Tundra owners an explanation of why their trucks may not have a defect.
  • bamatundrabamatundra Posts: 1,583
    "I am also a Silverado owner but am a Toyota fan"

    "Get Real. My last Toyota 4x4 truck had a transmission problem!"

    Two consecutive posts by ABC. LMFAO!
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Posts: 2,728
    3 consecutive flames by you in the 3/4 ton topic. Your wee truck must be impotent!
  • f1julesf1jules Posts: 288
    "This is not the place for your personal comments like "don't worry". I was just trying to give Tundra owners an explanation of why their trucks may not have a defect."

    Sure it is, this absolutely is the place for comments like this. Duh.

    Besides, this is a Tundra Problems forum, not the I disagree with Bama so I'm going to pick apart everything he says and bash him forum.

    Fact is, the Tundra is a very well built full-size truck. Most people who buy them have nothing but praise for them and would buy another. If the Tundra meets your needs, I would recommend it over any of the American made fullsize trucks.
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Posts: 2,728
    >Most people who buy them have nothing but praise for them and would buy another.<

    While that may be true, the problem is YOU shouldn't try and speak for "them" when they are already here, present in this topic right now. And they are trying to honestly report difficulties. You need to cease with the damage control posting, spin doctoring and just let these people report the facts as it applies to them.
  • f1julesf1jules Posts: 288
    I am NOT "damage control posting" or "spin doctoring." I have been nothing but truthful in the problems I have experienced with my truck.

    Fact is, I ACTUALLY OWN A TUNDRA!!! (in my best Artie Lang voice). So I think I'm a little more qualified to discuss the merits or demerits of the Tundra than you or abc who DO NOT own Tundras.

    I was simply responding to yet another chevy owner who came here to personally attack the Tundra and a Tundra owner.
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    You people are way off base. I was not attacking Tundra owners! The best car I ever owned was my Toyota Supra. My Toyota trucks have been great too. Just because I had a transmission problem in one of my Toyota trucks I don't hate Toyota. This was not even a thought when I went to buy a new pickup. The fact I currently own a Silverado should have no meaning here. I wanted to buy a Tundra, but ABS is very hard to find on a base 4x4 truck. I think what some people can not handle is that someone can switch to an American make from Toyota and like it!

    I was trying to help a few Tundra owners who thought they may have a defect. My post is actually pro Toyota. The only reason I posted was because I have never seen an explanation for driveline thump for GM or Toyota trucks.
  • I think you need to chill down a bit. We're all automobile enthusiasts here and while some have more vocal opinions on a particular make and model that they do OR do not prefer, there's no need for coping an attitude. While you state you're not attacking Tundra owners, you sure were attacking Bama.

    "This is not the place for your personal comments like "don't worry".

    "Get Real"

    "Silverado 4x4, it is a great truck......get over it"

    Sounds pretty hipocritical to me
  • Just got my Car and Driver mag in the mail yesterday and came across a 4x4 fullsize truck shootout with the Dodge Ram, Silverado, Tundra, and F150 - scored in that order. Well, what do they know? Their a car magazine, not a truck magazine. What's up with the Dodge winning - slowest in acceleration, braking, etc. Dodge must have paid off the editor! Tundra's are the best!
  • ndahi12ndahi12 Posts: 235
    could you please post the numbers, you know 0-60, 1/4 mile, braking, etc...These are more important than the subjective drivel that journalists spew.
  • f1julesf1jules Posts: 288
    To bad they don't rate them on trips to the dealership, time spent at the dealership, time/money/lost productivity because vehicle is out of service. Who gives a crap if one truck is 1/4 sec. faster 0-60mph if it spends half the time in the shop?

    Someone should produce a mag entitled "Everything the Auto Manfacturers don't want you to know about the vehicles they produce." It has kind of a ring to it doesn't it? Hehehe.
  • Here are the numbers (note that the tundra is the overall best in these performance measures):

    0-60: Tundra = 8.6/10.3*
    Silverado = 9.2/10.8*
    Ram = 10.1/11.7*
    F150 = 9.3/11.3*

    1/4: Tundra = 16.7@83/17.7@79*
    Silver = 16.8@82/17.6@78*
    Ram = 17.4@77/18.1@73*
    F150 = 16.7@81/17.9@76*

    Braking 70-0: Tundra = 189/200*
    Silver = 196/222*
    Ram = 203/205*
    F150 = 203/211*

    * with 1,000 lb payload

    All engines except for the F150 are the base V8. The F150 had a 5.4L. The Tundra was the lightest and the Ram weighed in the heaviest (quad cab style). The Ram is only rated to tow a 6,100 lb load!

    I've got to admit that I was quite taken aback to read that the Tundra was rated as low as it was. Quotes like "The Silverado's structure is more solid and rattle-free than the others" had me gasping as that is quite contradictory from what I've seemed to have read here. To be fair, they did slam the Tundra on rear cab space, but rated it slightly better than the F150. And they thought the TRD suspension was set too stiff. In the new Annual Consumer Reports Car Edition mag, they report that the Tundra is the recommended favorite of the trucks in the full size category. They also rated the reliability of the Tundra with a big red cherry vs the Silverado with a big black mark. I trust CR over C&D any day.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    I trust CR over C&D any day.

    Many don't trust neither or trust both depending if it agrees with their opinion.
  • plutoniousplutonious Posts: 799
    I agree with you, obyone. Heck, I even know brand loyalists whose opinions don't change, even after owning bonafide lemons!
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    problems now do I? Talk about loyalist....doh!
  • I've been subscribing to CR for about the last 10 years, and while they are not exactly perfect, they have more hits than misses. CR is one of the sources of reference that I use to make decisions re: purchases of major $$ items cause they seem to report (in my opinion) objectively about products they evaluate. They claim not to take money from manufacturers or ad money and rely on donations and other self generated cash.

    What do you use to base your decision on a new car or truck or other major cost goodies? Intuition?
  • f1julesf1jules Posts: 288
    "What do you use to base your decision on a new car or truck or other major cost goodies? Intuition?"

    Nah, them commercials on the tele are what the chevy owners base their decisions on. Those "like a rock" ads keep em comin back, because we all know the ad execs at chevy wouldn't want to mislead anyone. ROTFLMAO!!!
  • dch0300dch0300 Posts: 472
    So who is right...Truck Trend or Car & Driver?

    Here is the link to a Truck Trend test of a Silverado 1500 LT and a Tundra SR5

    Notice the numbers for the same tests differ from what Car &Driver got. Some of the tests favor the Silverado and some favor the Tundra.

    Guess the outcome depends on who does the test.

This discussion has been closed.