By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
I'm planning it as 6/18 for the SIA plant tour, although it seems like there may be other activities for Saturday and/or Sunday.
-Brian
Bob
I had my front rotors resurfaced last week. The car had been shuddering when braking at highway speeds. The service manager said that my rotors had become warped, and needed to be resurfaced. After the resurfacing, there was no more shuddering.
My question is, is this the normal way for a dealer to handle fixing warped rotors?
I seem to remember seeing posts on here where resurfacing the brakes only lasts for so long, and that the rotors eventually have to be replaced.
Thanks.
-juice
So, the resurfacing has fixed the rotors permanently for some people?
vetmats
I haven't had any issues, nor has my wife. I'm even on my original brake pads at 62k miles.
-juice
-mike
-mike
although now that I think about it, I seem to recall SOA having a policy against machining rotors some time in the past... I wonder if they changed the policy or not.
IMO as a hobbyist mechanic, there's nothing wrong with it as long as the rotor thickness is within the service limits.
~c
Can we bring kids? My 9 and 11 year old would love it!
You'd better be wearing more than just bells, or I am staying home!! ;-)
Steve
In other leases I have done and I have done many, there is some give and take. I assumed, obviously incorrectly in this case, that most auto companies would prefer not having to transport, detail and sell the automobile. ( 2000 Outback).
Patti
Thanks!
Patti
If you want to confirm that they will not negotiate it, maybe check with a Supervisor? Since most of that is discussed at the time the lease is signed, I imagine that they go with that information vs. re-looking it at the end of the lease. Some other lease company's may be able to provide services that we can't because we are smaller and have less flexibility in our programs.
Sorry I can't help with that part.
Patti
Case 606857. Thank you.
...Jeremy
I have been viewing this forum for quite some time but this is my first post. I have been having what I would describe as a hesitation problem with my WRX, which has been going on for over a year without any success at correcting it. I did a quick search of these forums and found similar issues from a few years ago but I did not come across definitive fixes. First, for a little history, I have a 2002 WRX Wagon (5 speed) that I purchased new from the first allotment my dealer received in 2001, currently with a little over 34,000 miles. I have had quite a few problems with it (cracked downpipe, clutch shudder, raw fuel smell, at least four bad sensors of various kinds, bad fuel injector, warped rotors, warped dashboard, and a few other non-engine related items). I expected to have a few problems with the car since it was a brand new model, but I did not expect to have the number of problems that I have.
Anyway, on to my issue. The problem occurs most frequently when shifting from first to second above 5,000 RPMs, at which point the car hesitates/lurches/”bucks” severely. This occurs when the gas pedal is pressed a little or a lot. The problem also occurs, somewhat intermittently, when shifting from first to second or second to third at around 3,000 RPMs or less (turning the A/C on magnifies the problem), such as when you are just casually driving. These shifts result in a clunking sound, just as if you shifted without applying any gas. What I have to do when shifting for this not to occur is to press the clutch, shift to the next gear, apply the gas but wait a full second or more (no exaggeration) for the engine speed to respond to the gas pedal, and then slowly let out the clutch. This sounds as if it could be the throttle cable, but that had been adjusted in the past with no luck. The car did not have this problem when I first bought it, and I have spent a very frustrating year-plus trying to get this corrected with the dealer. Part of the problem is that each time the dealer looked at the car for this problem, there was always something else they found wrong that could be causing it (from the list above). I took it in a few weeks ago (for another sensor) and the problem was not corrected, so the dealer is supposed to get the Subaru rep to take a look (I am still waiting for this, which is why I am trying this forum).
One other interesting item is that the problem appears to be less severe right after the ECU is reset (which the dealer said is done when replacing a sensor). The first to second and third to fourth low RPM shift problem is almost non-existent but the first to second 5,000+ RPM problem is still there (not as severe). After driving for a week or two the low RPM shift problem starts to occur and the high RPM shift problem becomes more severe. Now this could be my imagination, but I have been through this cycle about four times. Another thing is that I do not recall ever getting 23 MPG or above, even when driving 90% highway below 4,000 RPMs 90% of the time.
Even with all of these problems, I really like the car and am actually considering a Legacy GT when they are available (I cannot believe I would buy another first-year car, but I think the new Legacy GT is the only car that can replace my WRX). I really believe I just got a problem car, since a lot of other Subaru owners I have talked to have not had anywhere near the problems I have encountered. Also, this is not my first manual transmission car, as I have owned other performance cars with manual transmissions.
Please let me know if there is some other way I should contact you or if you need more information. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide.
Jim
Offhand, I would suggest looking at the knock sensor. That can cause hesitation (if faulty it can trick the ECU into retarding the timing), and it's behavior would be certainly affected by an ECU reset. Another culprit could be a coil pack or more bad injectors.
Good luck!
Craig
Actually, I am not terribly surprised to hear that Subaru won't negotiate. That seems to be the trend now. In the '90's, bargaining over the residual, even though it was 'fixed' (closed end lease) in the contract, was common. I got a very sweet $4k off my '97 Dodge GC, then used it as a trade to lock in my profit. But by the time I went to dispose of my '00 Ford Windstar, the policy had almost uniformily changed.
If the market is hot in your area, you might still be able to turn this car into a profit. Most contacts allow you to bring a third party buyer to the table, and X-fer the car to them. Anything they pay over and above the residual passes to you. You don't pay sales tax, as title never passes thru your hands. They get a good car, you avoid any 'end of lease' fees such as "reconditioning", excess wear-&-tear, tires, etc, and maybe collect some cash to use as a downpayment towards your new Subaru. I transfer'ed the Windstar to a friend at work, for below what they were selling for, but very slightly above the residual. I escaped about a grand in fees for the crease Beth put in the slider and rear panel.
Fun with money.....
Steve
Did you have quadruplets or something that requires a different vehicle?
If so get off the internet and go change some diapers!
-juice
Car pool to and from the airport, anyone???
Steve
Patti
Car pool from Chicago...I was originally thinking of flying into Indy but I'll consider Chicago. Let me think about it.
Jim
Mark
Steve
Bob
DaveM
Jim
Bren: I should try to persuade you to pick up some Stude parts at SASCO (the old Newman & Altman) and have one of the East Coasters shuttle them back for me!
Patti: If you gave me enough notice I'd always be up for lunch at Red Hot & Blue next to your offices - though I imagine SoA folks get burned out on that place if they go there at all. RH&B's barbecue can't hold a candle to the vinegar-n-pepper eastern NC/SC style I grew up with but it's about the best you can get in these parts. I swear I went into a restaurant in metro Philly once and ordered a "pork BBQ sandwich" only to get what looked like Hunt's Manwich on a bun.
Ed
If Brenda picks it up, I'll drop it off. Whatever it is, will it fit inside a wagon?
Mark
-mike
Not trying to be a pest, but is there any more info about the SIA get together? I know you've been going nuts with everything at work, but I would like to work out my travel plans. I'm trying to make plans with some friends not too far away for afterwards.
Thanks,
Mark
But - - the "delux" tour is good for the 18th. I hope that much info. helps for now.
Patti
-Brian
Patti
Thanks, and yes it's good to hear about the tour. As for the rest, I'll wait till next week before looking into hotels and stuff.
Does anyone here have the correct address for SIA? Just trying to look at directions.
Mark
I posted a map link there, looks to be legit, but just was hoping to confirm it.
-Brian
Thanks. The problem I am having is the Garmin GPS I have can not find that address. That's why I wanted to verify it.
Mark
Seriously, I don't need very much for my car beyond spares. Mostly a few little interior trim pieces that would fit in a sedan's trunk, much less a wagon's cargo bay. I'll call SASCO first to see if they even have them in stock. If so, I'll let you all know.
Thanks so much!
Ed
It would give me a chance to do a little more driving:-). (As if I have to do more after going from NYC to Indiana, to Kentucky on the way back, then a slight detour within PA, before getting home.) No big deal for the crew.
Mark
I haven't seen or interacted with very many car folks - Subie or Stude - since my son was born. My OCD quotient has slipped mightily; let's just say that rest assured my next new car won't be black. I did get to take a nice 2 hour ride through Amish country in a 1950 Stude pickup a month or so ago. (If originalbitman is still out there, it was very much like your truck - a 2R5.)
Again, I'll find out what SASCO has, then let Bren and you know before I place the order.
Ed
I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this, but I have one comment and one question about the new 2005 Outback.
I've driven two 2005 Outback's with the base engine. I'm very impressed with the car and plan to buy one. However, I found two problems with the seats that concern me...
At the two dealers I went to, I sat in a total of five Outbacks - standard and Limited. All of them had the problem with the seat. About 12 inches down from the top of the back cushion, there is a place where the foam sinks in about an inch and then has an abrupt horizontal transition.
Here's a link (I hope it works) to an image. I used one of the standard Subaru interior images and then edited it a bit in PhotoShop to show where the problem area is:
http://www.pbase.com/image/29225236/original.jpg
This is VERY uncomfortable. The seat back is comfortable up to a point, then there the hard transition point, and then above that point the seat doesn't touch my back
All of the Outbacks in which I sat had the same problem. I'm assuming that it's an early manufacturing glitch.
If I buy an Outback (pretty high probability), I'll have to have the seat re-padded. Assuming that it's doable, it will be a hassle, it's a risk and it'll cost money. Not good.
Is this a known issue? Is Subaru address it?
The other problem has to do with the lumbar support lever. In the last car I sat in, I tried to adjust the lumbar support and the handle went "sproing" (that's actually the sound it made) and then fell off in my hand. Since it worked fine in the previous 4 Outbacks I sat in, I know it wasn't a "user error". I hope this isn't an example of Subaru quality control. I want and need reliability. (Something my 2002 Audi A4 does NOT have).
I appreciate any feedback you can give me.
Regards,
Dan.
Use this coordinates N40.22.466 W086.48.000
That should pinpoint 5500 State Rd 38 E [aka 5500 Hwy 38 E], Lafayette, IN 47905 plus/minus a mile of two off target.
On Mapsource, 5500 State Rd 38 E = 5500 Hwy 38 E
Here's the more likely location http://makeashorterlink.com/?P5D021E58
The other location appears too commercial/residential and small to facilitate or to be zoned for industrial.
-Dave
I put down a deposit on a GT Limited last week. Could you explain how the upgraded perimeter alarm works. It's only mentioned in the brochure and the subaru website doesn't explain it well. I want to know if it's something worth getting. Subaru should really explain these things and show all of the accessories in the brochure. It'll help sell some of these items. Thanks.
The info available about the perimeter alarm implies that it has a door open detection and a motion detector. Assuming that's true, the motion detector can be a problem under some circumstances - such as when I need to lock my dog Sammy in the car (with the windows cracked open, of course) or in some public parking garages. So...
Does the alarm upgrade have a switch to disable the motion detection but NOT the door open detection?
Thanks and regards,
Dan.
p.s. Subaru really needs to provide DETAILED data on the options and accessories. Currently, Subaru only provides cursory data about the accessories on their website. And, a lot of dealers don't have this information. We need it to make good decisions. I may pass up accessories because I don't understand their benefits. Or I may buy an unneeded/unwanted accessory and then my opinion of Subaru goes down. In either case, Subaru loses and I lose. Please tell them.
-Frank P