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Volkswagen Passat Fuse and Electrical Problems

jim97501jim97501 Posts: 2
edited July 2017 in Volkswagen
I bought this car in Aug02 and have put 55K miles on it. Great car though a little expensive to maintain. Here's the problem. A/C quit and I noted the auto climate control panel was blank. Started checking other things and found the following did not function: garage door opener on visor; cruise control (though dash indicator light is on); steering wheel controls for stereo system (dash control for stereo works fine). I checked fuses and all are fine. I have gone to my foreign car mechanic who does all my service and they have no clue. The VW dealer has no clue. There must be a common denominator here but no one can figure it out. HELP! Thanks!
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Comments

  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    I know you said you checked the fuses, but check fuse #5 again (with an ohm-meter - not just a visual check). Much of the stuff that has died, if not all, is tied into fuse #5.

    A short sometimes develops in the Homelink system (the garage door opener in the visor) and that blows the fuse, taking the other stuff with it.

    If that fuse is verifiably okay, then I might suspect the CCM (comfort control module).
  • jim97501jim97501 Posts: 2
    THANKS! You were right...the fuse was not broken but tested poorly. I replaced it and everything works. Really appreciate the time you took to reply to my problem!
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Glad I could help! I would still suspect that the fuse blew because of the homelink. Keep that in mind if it becomes a repetitive issue.
  • Thank you Altair4 and Jim97501. I just had this very problem this morning with the AC, homelink and steering wheel controls. Thanks to you guys I will have airconditioning on my drive home (I'm in Las Vegas, it reached 105 today, my car has been sitting in the hot sun all day long. I really can't express how valuable your info is!) Darn that fuse #5.
  • vw27278vw27278 Posts: 29
    I've been hard pressed to find a solution to my problem and it looks like you may have found it. A month ago, my homelink stopped working, all the controls (including horn) stopped functioning on my sterring wheel, including the backlighting on the controls. I'll check fuse # 5 tonight and post a follow-up.

    Thanks!
  • vw27278vw27278 Posts: 29
    Ok, I replaced the fuse #5 but kept my eye on it while turning on the ignition and poof, it blew again. Changed it to a 15 amp fuse w/ the same problem. Does it sound like the CCM, or should I just unhook the homelink and try again?

    Any responses are greatly appreciated.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Before I messed with the CCM (pulling the carpet, etc), I would disconnect the Homelink and see what happens.
  • vw27278vw27278 Posts: 29
    I had it in the shop yesterday and it was the homelink transmitter that was shorting out and blowing fuse # 5. So it ended up costing me $180 to have it disconnected. the cost was $800.00 to have a new part installed, so I passed. Go figure. And yes, avoid getting the homelink option.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    While I'm glad you got a definitive answer, I'm sorry it cost so much to disconnect the Homelink. Do you how they did it?
  • vw27278vw27278 Posts: 29
    To disconnect it, I think they just took the screw out which holds the visor onto the roof, and then disconnected something in there. But, I'm not totally sure. I would've done it myself if I knew how. I just didn't want to cause further electrical problems.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    If you are in need of a replacement and want something that looks OEM, consider this:

    http://www.mikadotech.com/

    It's a garage door opener that replaces the blank switch plate in the center stack. I don't have one (heh, I don't even have a garage!) but it looks pretty nice.

    image
  • nickb28nickb28 Posts: 1
    Thanks to everyone on this thread for their experiences. I have the exact same problem with my 2003 Passat. The car has 54,000 miles on it. My mechanic replaced fuse #5 which then blew 2 days later. I replaced it myself and it blew again. I'm going to assume it's the Homelink causing the short. Has anyone seen anything else besides the Homelink that I should be looking at?
  • Me again. Ja, I replaced fuse #5 and it held out for a good month. Then this morning POOF. Out again. I tried replacing the fuse again (just for the sake of A/C) but this time, no luck. I'm going to try the homelink disconnect solution. I'll keep you posted.
  • I have a 1997 TDI with 52,000 mile. Recently my headlights, fan and wipers keep going out. It doesn't matter weather the head light switch is on or just on the daytime running light setting. The marker lights stay on. Everything works when I start the car but then they go after awhile. If I shut the car off they will go back on but then will go back out again. The lights seem to slightly dim down before they go out.
  • Hello,

    Need to replace electrical portion only (not the lock portion).

    Can it be done by removing the knee bolster for access to the contacts'(back)side of the switch? Or, do I have to pull airbag, strg. wheel, multifunction stalk, etc?

    Thx,
    JED
  • Hi- I have an older, but still great 1995 Passat GLX. Yesterday, the red dash board light icon was activated, indicating that the rear trunk or a car door was open. However, neither was the case! Further, I then noticed that when I tried to open and/or close the door lock with my key, only the front driver's side door would respond, instead of all doors locking or unlocking. Finally, I also noticed that the car clock was re-set to 12:00 each time I turned on the ignition. Any ideas?? A fuse issue as in other electrical problems or is it more sinister? THANKS.
  • krzysskrzyss Posts: 848
    When clock was resetting in my 97 Passat it was because the battery was weak.
    If I were you I would check it.

    Krzys
  • Hi Kryss & to any one else who read about my '95 Passat electrical problem:

    First, thanks for your reply! Shortly after I wrote in, I ended up looking at my fuse box and discovered that fuse #21 was blown. According to my Passat manual, fuse #21 controls the dash lights, among other things, but is silent regarding the rear trunk lid. I replaced the fuse and all the problems I experienced were solved. I should have checked my fuses first, even before I browsed here. Even so, it is somewhat strange that the red icon dash light would shine when fuse #21 supposedly controls that circuit. The lesson for me & anyone else having an electrical problem: check your fuse box first!!!
  • Hi all. '02 Passat, 65K miles. Key remotes inoperable. Dealer replaces batteries, concludes keys not communicating with comfort control module.

    Drive home, park. 2 hours later, car won't start with master keys or valet key. Door locks, windows, interior lights and trunk release inoperable. Battery is connected and powered; stereo, a/c, exterior lights, wipers all work.

    Fuses appear ok; pulled and reinserted each. Lifted carpet and found no visible evidence of water damage or residue in or around the CCM.

    Any comments on these issues or reliability of CCM in general appreciated.
  • the same thing happened to my 2002 passat...the problem was leakage into the passenger side where the ccm is located. the leakage was due to drain clogs under battery, totalling wetting and distroying the pollen (?) filter and causing the leak....design flaw. They did replace the ccm and all worked fine after that...same same issue with drainage problems for passat
  • dp5010dp5010 Posts: 11
    Has this been resolved. I have a 2002 W* with 55000 trouble free miles until yesterday. My problem is similar, only worse:
    I have an electrical “Bug” with the following symptoms:
    1. Fuel gauge does not work (i.e. indicates “empty”) and as a result the trip computer “Miles to Empty” does not function
    2. Power seats work but the memories do not function.
    3. Radio works but does not turn off with the key
    4. No indication of Audio system status in the top of Driver Display
    5. Neither key-fob remotes function.
    6. Power door locks do not work.
    7. Power windows do not work.
    8. Power mirrors do not work.
    9. No Air-Conditioning.
    10. No Temperature input to Auto A/C (Indicates °C not °F)
    11. Trip Odometer in Speedometer doesn’t work (resets itself)
    12. Trunk Release does not work (fuel door release does function).
    13. Main dashboard lights work but all auxiliary lights (center console, radio, door switches, steering wheel lights, etc.) do not work.
    14. Auto-Transmission works but when it is placed in manual, transmission doesn’t shift on command.
    15. Horn doesn’t work.
    16. Clock doesn’t keep time
    17. Interior lights do not come on with door opening
    18. Dashboard gauges all go to zero (Intermittent Problem-two occurrences, lasting seconds)
    19. Car fails to Start
    Items have failed in sequence over three days.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    I'd say your CCM is wet and possibly your TCU, too. Both located under the carpeting...
  • dp5010dp5010 Posts: 11
    Note that this problem has been resolved. The CCM was completely burned out. This was caused by the Fuel Control Module located in a well in the trunk under the spare tire. When the car was detailed, the detailer got water in the trunk and flooded the Fuel Control Module. This caused all item to fail.

    The detailer ended up paying the $1400 repair bill.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Wow! Glad the detailer took responsibility without a hassle (right?). Thanks for letting us know - altair nailed it.
  • are they under the front drivers side or the rear drivers' side?? thanks
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Front.
  • thnks...but can u clarify ..passenger or drivers side??...when my passenger side flooded...I was told the ccm was fried and maybe the trans module???? its a passat GLX 6 cylinder 2002 w/ triponic trans. My friend just drove and said noticed when slow down to stop...it seems to down-shift the last two gears before stopping.. I now notice as well..the down-shift is very noticeable...maybe it has always been there, just didn't know it. If I do a hard stop...I don't feel the downshift. Is this normal?? or is there something wrong with my transmission? any suggestions???? to a) PASSANGER OR DRIVER SIDE FOR CCM AND TM and b)does the noticeable down shift while final slow down to stop mean something is wrong with my transmission or tm. My dealership was not too helpful.
    thanks.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    I believe the CCM is on the driver's side and TCU is on the the passenger's side (assuming your vehicle is LHD).
  • Hi, Have a 2000 1.8l turbo Passat. There seems to be an interminttent fault. Indicators, wipers, headlights seem to drop out. Checked the fuses and seem to be no problems. Iknow we have an aircon problem, the bearings are just about had it so need to get serviced, however we are driving with the aircon off so should not be a problem. Help!!! :cry:
  • I'm sorry if this seems like a dumb question to ask but I wanted to take a stab at checking the fuse to my radio. How exactly do I do that (i opened the panel but the numbers didnt correspond to my little example card). Then, how do I go about fixing a fuse? Thanks for any tips. As a female, I'm tired of getting ripped off each time I go to the mechanic and I would like to take a stab at it myself first.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    You can visually check the fuses by pulling them and looking to see if the bridge (fuseable link) bwtween the two spades is broken. However, if the break is small enough, it is possible to miss it with a visual inspection. Then you could use a cheap ohmmeter from Radio Shack http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103534&cp=&origkw=ohm+met- er&kw=ohm+meter&parentPage=search to electrically test for continuity. You simply plug in the test leads and touch both spades simultaneously. If the meter moves all the way to the right, you've got continuity and the fuse is good.
  • i have an 02 passat with 90k miles on it. A few days ago my wife parked it at the train station in the morning. When she came back that night(it did rain that day) she started the car then traction control light went on, then check engine light, then airbag module light and car would not go into any gear(auto trans)I had the car towed to dealer and diagnosis was carpets saturated with water,computer module fried et al. All as a result of the seal underneath the pollen filter which is housed next to battery compartment in front of firewall.from reading some of these posts it seems a pretty common occurrence on the passat. How is someone supposed to know that this could develop. Now dealer quote for all repairs is 2342.96 plus tax
  • to further update sovereign vw wouldnt do anything for me. The GM said that if I wanted to they could work with me on a new car and trade. 3 days later a salesman calls me up. we start to talk of an 06 similarly equipped passat and a purchase because I purchased my car from them and didnt want to lease a car. He calls me back an hour later after speaking with the "powers that be" regarding an "astronomical deal". What he tells me is my car in its present condition has no trade in value and he could get me into the said car for $333.00 a month and just pay the taxes and bank fees on a 12000k\yr LEASE!!!Needless to say, I had my car towed from the dealership brought to a family friend in Brooklyn Started working on the car at 130 in the afternoon and by 500 the car was running with ALL THE SAME PARTS and no electrical problems. Now I just have to locate where the alleged water is coming from. Bottom Line do your homework before bringing it to the VW DEALER IN HICKSVILLE!!!!
  • I have a 2002 Passat V6 GLX 2.8 engine with about 75,000 miles on it. Recently I have been experiencing electrical problems. The steering wheel controls and horn don't work. The heat and air dosen't work. I have checked all the fuses and they are fine. Can someone tell me why they are not working all at the same time?
  • dp5010dp5010 Posts: 11
    Under the Drivers side, beneath your feet.
  • dp5010dp5010 Posts: 11
    Sounds like the problem I had. All those items are controlled by the CCM. Unless the CCM is totally burned out, which it doesn't sound like, there are supposed to be diagnostic codes stored in it. I don't know how you get them out. This is definitetly a dealer item to get fixed.
  • Hello Everybody!

    I bought an used VW Passat '99 Station Wagon. The stereo is dead and I don't know were the fuses are and how to check them properly besides of doing the visual inspection...

    Any sugestion?

    Also, where can I get the user manual for this model???

    Thanks for your time!!!

    Vicky :sick:
  • Hi There-

    There are various things that you need to ponder. First and easiest, your fuse box is most likely located on the driver's side of your Passat, underneath the steering wheel area to the top left. There will be a small, rectangular plastic cover that you will need to remove, by way of a push button latch. On the inside of the plastic cover will be an embossed schematic of your fuses, with a cross-reference to which fuse operates your radio. You will have to locate the applicable fuse and pull it out of its socket in order to fully inspect same. Second, your Passat would have originally come with a radio manual as well as a regular car manual; among other things, the former gives details about the specific model # of your radio and its operation. VW made life difficult for thieves (and used car buyers) by assigning a specific "radio code" to each radio as part of an anti-theft system. If your fuse is indeed blown, you will need to obviously replace same, and when you do so, the the radio will at least, if it is not broken, power up; the radio dash lights or "leds" should light up. However, the next issue you will most likely face is the need to re-program your radio with the proper radio code applicable to your radio. The radio code may or may not be written down in your owner's manual by the previous owner; further, there was once a small card that VW included in its radio and/or owner's manuals that allowed the owner to write the code down in the event that your car lost power and you had to "re-boot" the radio. The instructions on how to do this are indeed in your radio or owner's manual. You can also get your local VW dealer to do all of this for you, but he will likely charge you; best to smile, beg, plead mercy, or become best friends with the service guy behind the counter---tell him you will come back for service there and he may give you the code free of charge. Finally, if you did replace the fuse and the radio did not power up, your radio is likely shot any you will now have to buy a new one (or perhaps a good used one on e-bay or via a junk yard). I bought an identical used radio on e-bay, paid almost nothing for it, but then had to get the service dealer to give me the proper radio code for it. He did not charge me, because I bought my used Passat there, but that is the exception to the rule. Sometimes you can find radio manuals at junk yards when you buy a radio from them. You can also try doing a Google search and see what you can find. If you have a brand name radio (Blaupunkt?), try their web site. There is always the dealer, but expect to pay some cash. Good Luck and since I am curious, please post again and do tell what you did. VTY, '95 Passat
  • stephystephy Posts: 1
    Hello - I have a 2002 Passat Wagon 1.8T the problem I am having is that while driving down the road all my warning lights on my dash will come on then go off, the clock will reset to 12:00, and in the past the odometer has rolled back when this happens.

    This is not a one time issue - it has happened several times. The last time this happened the air bag fault light came on and stays on so every time I start the car it will beep at me and stay on.

    Last week my radio would not come on - I took it in to a repair shop that is not the dealer and they reset the air bag fault light and got the radio working but the light came on several days again under the same circumstances.

    My question is if any one has heard of this before and also is there a way to some how determine the correct number of miles and the odometer be reset or at least get some thing stating what the correct miles are.

    Thank You
  • Hi 95passat:
    Thank you for your answer.
    I did check the fuses. ALL of them, just to be sure.. Unfortunatelly, they are all fine. I used a fuse tester.
    The radio is a Pioneer and I also have the model... writen somewhere. But the thing is that it does not power up.
    Is this replaceable, I mean, can I buy a cheap stereo and put it in place of this one? :confuse:

    The engine on this car was replaced. The mecanic says that he didn't touch the dashboard, so he has nothing to do with the stereo not powering up... :mad: Does this sounds logic? It was working before he replaced the engine.

    Thanks again!
  • Hi Vicky2007-

    First, I think it is great that you are trying to solve the problem on your own. Good for you!!! Well the comments by the mechanic do make sense, but remember, if he replaced the engine, then he most certainly had to disconnect the battery, which, in turn, caused the electrical circuit to your dash and hence your radio to shut off. Assuming the fuses are indeed fine, my first hunch is that you have a loose wire or connection somewhere between the fuse box and the back of your radio. But before you go get dirty and mess with that circuit, the very first thing I would do is replace the radio fuse, regardless of whether it looks and or tests fine. It is a very inexpensive "fix" and may solve the problem; I am aware that some bad/broken fuses can still arc, giving a false positive test. Hopefully, your problem is solved.

    If a replacement fuse does not solve the problem, then you are kind of in a catch 22 situation. Why? Well, you have to make a decision as to whether you personally want to spend the time needed to take the radio out of your dash and check the integrity of your connections or have someone else do it. Tough call, but you have some spunk, you have found this site, and you have made it this far. Go for it, what the hell?

    OK, then the next good step would be for you to check your radio's electrical wire connections before you decide that all hope is lost and that you need to buy a replacement radio. The back of your radio will have a female/male plug connection; sometimes that comes loose and simply re-inserting the connection will do the trick. However, that is easier said than done. In order to expose the back of your radio, you will have to remove it from your dash board. There is a reason why mechanics charge a huge price to fix dash components: it is called labor. It is difficult to describe how to remove your car radio from your dash without my being able to see what your particular dash and radio looks like, but let's give it a try. I will assume that your dash is plastic. It is very likely that your radio will have plastic "shrouds" surrounding what I assume is your rectangular shaped radio. If so, these plastic pieces need to be removed. Be careful, you do not want to break them. A small flat head screw driver with gentle pressure placed underneath the shrouds and at their tab insertion points will usually cause the shrouds to pop off, exposing the metal radio housing. (Your dealer has special tools for all of this, but you are a weekend warrior, so make due with what you have!)

    The radio may be secured in place by either a slide mechanism or screws; you will have to simply eyeball this and figure out how the radio fits into your dash. In general, radios are self-contained units that will slide in and out of a dash, much like a computer hard drive fits into the housing of a computer tower. Well, if you have gotten this far, awesome. This next step is important: Go to your refrigerator, open up that bottle of bubbly, congratulate yourself and then proceed. Now then, gently slide the radio forward and out of the dash; there should be some slack in the rear radio wire and antenna connetions that allows you to do this. Completely remove the wire plug connection, re-insert same, start your car, turn on your radio, and...hopefully, you can now finish that bottle of bubbly as you listen to your favorite guitar rift from Eric Clapton or that great fusion jazz piece by Spyrogyra. NO?

    Well, if all of that fails, by all means finish the bottle of bubbly because you have now determined that a new/replacement radio is in order. This is good. The bright side is that since you have now removed the broken radio, you can now buy a substitute radio (local VW dealer--expensive; local car radio store--less expensive and you can see first hand what they have and they could install it for you; or ebay--least expensive) and slide it into the dash by yourself, having saved the huge labor costs that your local VW mechanic would have charged. Now then, take yourself and someone special out to dinner with the money you saved...and by all means turn up the volume on your new sterio. Good Luck!!!! 95Passat

    P.S. I just replaced the window regulator on my car and save around $400.00 in labor costs.
  • Hi! My Daughter's 1992 VW Passat blew a heater core last weekend. :sick:

    We took the dash apart and replaced the heater core, being VERY careful to replace everything back in the right order.

    Unfortunately, now that the entire dash is back together, we have a small problem - when the headlights are off, the gauges work fine. HOWEVER, when we turn on the headlights, all gauges go to zero - RPM, Fuel, Speedometer. On a side note, the high beam indicator comes on when the headlights are on low and goes off when the headlights are on high.

    Any ideas?
  • dwc2dwc2 Posts: 1
    Dealer (Crown Motors of Holland, MI) replaced the instrument cluster. Now I don't have any shift indicators. Neither the normal (PRND32) or Trip Tronic work. The dealer tells me that the shift indicators are not there in the replacement units.

    VW customer service is of no help.

    Does any one have an answer??
  • I have a 2003 W8 6 speed with 25000 trouble free miles until yesterday. My problem is similar, only worse:
    I have an electrical “Bug” with the following symptoms:
    1. Fuel gauge does not work (i.e. indicates “empty”) and as a result the trip computer “Miles to Empty” does not function
    2. Power seats work but the memories do not function.
    3. Radio works but does not turn off with the key
    4. No indication of Audio system status in the top of Driver Display
    5. Neither key-fob remotes function.
    6. Power door locks do not work.
    7. Power windows do not work.
    8. Power mirrors do not work.
    9. No Air-Conditioning.
    10. No Temperature input to Auto A/C (Indicates °C not °F)
    11. Trip Odometer in Speedometer doesn’t work (resets itself)
    12. Trunk Release does not work (fuel door release does function).
    13. Main dashboard lights work but all auxiliary lights (center console, radio, door switches, steering wheel lights, etc.) do not work.
    14. Auto-Transmission works but when it is placed in manual, transmission doesn’t shift on command.
    15. Horn doesn’t work.
    16. Clock doesn’t keep time
    17. Interior lights do not come on with door opening
    18. Dashboard gauges all go to zero (Intermittent Problem-two occurrences, lasting seconds)
    19. sunroof inop
    I went to the dealer,paid 400 in check out fees, there tech said he needs more time, the dealer said that a connection
    for the buss is broke some were in the car? and possible a ccu module is bad, I pulled the car out they wanted extra 700 to looking? need some help? :confuse:
  • have a 2003 W8 6 speed with 25000 trouble free miles until yesterday. My problem is similar, only worse:
    I have an electrical “Bug” with the following symptoms:
    1. Fuel gauge does not work (i.e. indicates “empty”) and as a result the trip computer “Miles to Empty” does not function
    2. Power seats work but the memories do not function.
    3. Radio works but does not turn off with the key
    4. No indication of Audio system status in the top of Driver Display
    5. Neither key-fob remotes function.
    6. Power door locks do not work.
    7. Power windows do not work.
    8. Power mirrors do not work.
    9. No Air-Conditioning.
    10. No Temperature input to Auto A/C (Indicates °C not °F)
    11. Trip Odometer in Speedometer doesn’t work (resets itself)
    12. Trunk Release does not work (fuel door release does function).
    13. Main dashboard lights work but all auxiliary lights (center console, radio, door switches, steering wheel lights, etc.) do not work.
    14. Auto-Transmission works but when it is placed in manual, transmission doesn’t shift on command.
    15. Horn doesn’t work.
    16. Clock doesn’t keep time
    17. Interior lights do not come on with door opening
    18. Dashboard gauges all go to zero (Intermittent Problem-two occurrences, lasting seconds)
    19. sunroof inop
    I went to the dealer,paid 400 in check out fees, there tech said he needs more time, the dealer said that a connection
    for the buss is broke some were in the car? and possible a ccu module is bad, I pulled the car out they wanted extra 700 to looking? need some help?
  • have a 2003 W8 6 speed with 25000 trouble free miles until yesterday. My problem is similar, only worse:
    I have an electrical “Bug” with the following symptoms:
    1. Fuel gauge does not work (i.e. indicates “empty”) and as a result the trip computer “Miles to Empty” does not function
    2. Power seats work but the memories do not function.
    3. Radio works but does not turn off with the key
    4. No indication of Audio system status in the top of Driver Display
    5. Neither key-fob remotes function.
    6. Power door locks do not work.
    7. Power windows do not work.
    8. Power mirrors do not work.
    9. No Air-Conditioning.
    10. No Temperature input to Auto A/C (Indicates °C not °F)
    11. Trip Odometer in Speedometer doesn’t work (resets itself)
    12. Trunk Release does not work (fuel door release does function).
    13. Main dashboard lights work but all auxiliary lights (center console, radio, door switches, steering wheel lights, etc.) do not work.
    14. Auto-Transmission works but when it is placed in manual, transmission doesn’t shift on command.
    15. Horn doesn’t work.
    16. Clock doesn’t keep time
    17. Interior lights do not come on with door opening
    18. Dashboard gauges all go to zero (Intermittent Problem-two occurrences, lasting seconds)
    19. sunroof inop
    I went to the dealer,paid 400 in check out fees, there tech said he needs more time, the dealer said that a connection
    for the buss is broke some were in the car? and possible a ccu module is bad, I pulled the car out they wanted extra 700 to looking? need some help?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Gesundheit! ;-)
  • thanks?
  • krzysskrzyss Posts: 848
    "refresh".

    Krzys
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Let's give a new member a break. The way things work around here is totally different than every other automotive (and other) message boards in the whole world.

    He/she did not click refresh, he/she responded to three separate posts. Perfectly reasonable behavior on most message boards. Perfectly understandable. Shoot, he/she found his/her way to the right discussion, that's more than many new members are able to figure out on their first visit! ;)

    Can either of you offer a helpful response to the his/her post?
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