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Volkswagen Passat Fuse and Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    You can visually check the fuses by pulling them and looking to see if the bridge (fuseable link) bwtween the two spades is broken. However, if the break is small enough, it is possible to miss it with a visual inspection. Then you could use a cheap ohmmeter from Radio Shack http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103534&cp=&origkw=ohm+met- er&kw=ohm+meter&parentPage=search to electrically test for continuity. You simply plug in the test leads and touch both spades simultaneously. If the meter moves all the way to the right, you've got continuity and the fuse is good.
  • i have an 02 passat with 90k miles on it. A few days ago my wife parked it at the train station in the morning. When she came back that night(it did rain that day) she started the car then traction control light went on, then check engine light, then airbag module light and car would not go into any gear(auto trans)I had the car towed to dealer and diagnosis was carpets saturated with water,computer module fried et al. All as a result of the seal underneath the pollen filter which is housed next to battery compartment in front of firewall.from reading some of these posts it seems a pretty common occurrence on the passat. How is someone supposed to know that this could develop. Now dealer quote for all repairs is 2342.96 plus tax
  • to further update sovereign vw wouldnt do anything for me. The GM said that if I wanted to they could work with me on a new car and trade. 3 days later a salesman calls me up. we start to talk of an 06 similarly equipped passat and a purchase because I purchased my car from them and didnt want to lease a car. He calls me back an hour later after speaking with the "powers that be" regarding an "astronomical deal". What he tells me is my car in its present condition has no trade in value and he could get me into the said car for $333.00 a month and just pay the taxes and bank fees on a 12000k\yr LEASE!!!Needless to say, I had my car towed from the dealership brought to a family friend in Brooklyn Started working on the car at 130 in the afternoon and by 500 the car was running with ALL THE SAME PARTS and no electrical problems. Now I just have to locate where the alleged water is coming from. Bottom Line do your homework before bringing it to the VW DEALER IN HICKSVILLE!!!!
  • I have a 2002 Passat V6 GLX 2.8 engine with about 75,000 miles on it. Recently I have been experiencing electrical problems. The steering wheel controls and horn don't work. The heat and air dosen't work. I have checked all the fuses and they are fine. Can someone tell me why they are not working all at the same time?
  • dp5010dp5010 Posts: 11
    Under the Drivers side, beneath your feet.
  • dp5010dp5010 Posts: 11
    Sounds like the problem I had. All those items are controlled by the CCM. Unless the CCM is totally burned out, which it doesn't sound like, there are supposed to be diagnostic codes stored in it. I don't know how you get them out. This is definitetly a dealer item to get fixed.
  • Hello Everybody!

    I bought an used VW Passat '99 Station Wagon. The stereo is dead and I don't know were the fuses are and how to check them properly besides of doing the visual inspection...

    Any sugestion?

    Also, where can I get the user manual for this model???

    Thanks for your time!!!

    Vicky :sick:
  • Hi There-

    There are various things that you need to ponder. First and easiest, your fuse box is most likely located on the driver's side of your Passat, underneath the steering wheel area to the top left. There will be a small, rectangular plastic cover that you will need to remove, by way of a push button latch. On the inside of the plastic cover will be an embossed schematic of your fuses, with a cross-reference to which fuse operates your radio. You will have to locate the applicable fuse and pull it out of its socket in order to fully inspect same. Second, your Passat would have originally come with a radio manual as well as a regular car manual; among other things, the former gives details about the specific model # of your radio and its operation. VW made life difficult for thieves (and used car buyers) by assigning a specific "radio code" to each radio as part of an anti-theft system. If your fuse is indeed blown, you will need to obviously replace same, and when you do so, the the radio will at least, if it is not broken, power up; the radio dash lights or "leds" should light up. However, the next issue you will most likely face is the need to re-program your radio with the proper radio code applicable to your radio. The radio code may or may not be written down in your owner's manual by the previous owner; further, there was once a small card that VW included in its radio and/or owner's manuals that allowed the owner to write the code down in the event that your car lost power and you had to "re-boot" the radio. The instructions on how to do this are indeed in your radio or owner's manual. You can also get your local VW dealer to do all of this for you, but he will likely charge you; best to smile, beg, plead mercy, or become best friends with the service guy behind the counter---tell him you will come back for service there and he may give you the code free of charge. Finally, if you did replace the fuse and the radio did not power up, your radio is likely shot any you will now have to buy a new one (or perhaps a good used one on e-bay or via a junk yard). I bought an identical used radio on e-bay, paid almost nothing for it, but then had to get the service dealer to give me the proper radio code for it. He did not charge me, because I bought my used Passat there, but that is the exception to the rule. Sometimes you can find radio manuals at junk yards when you buy a radio from them. You can also try doing a Google search and see what you can find. If you have a brand name radio (Blaupunkt?), try their web site. There is always the dealer, but expect to pay some cash. Good Luck and since I am curious, please post again and do tell what you did. VTY, '95 Passat
  • stephystephy Posts: 1
    Hello - I have a 2002 Passat Wagon 1.8T the problem I am having is that while driving down the road all my warning lights on my dash will come on then go off, the clock will reset to 12:00, and in the past the odometer has rolled back when this happens.

    This is not a one time issue - it has happened several times. The last time this happened the air bag fault light came on and stays on so every time I start the car it will beep at me and stay on.

    Last week my radio would not come on - I took it in to a repair shop that is not the dealer and they reset the air bag fault light and got the radio working but the light came on several days again under the same circumstances.

    My question is if any one has heard of this before and also is there a way to some how determine the correct number of miles and the odometer be reset or at least get some thing stating what the correct miles are.

    Thank You
  • Hi 95passat:
    Thank you for your answer.
    I did check the fuses. ALL of them, just to be sure.. Unfortunatelly, they are all fine. I used a fuse tester.
    The radio is a Pioneer and I also have the model... writen somewhere. But the thing is that it does not power up.
    Is this replaceable, I mean, can I buy a cheap stereo and put it in place of this one? :confuse:

    The engine on this car was replaced. The mecanic says that he didn't touch the dashboard, so he has nothing to do with the stereo not powering up... :mad: Does this sounds logic? It was working before he replaced the engine.

    Thanks again!
  • Hi Vicky2007-

    First, I think it is great that you are trying to solve the problem on your own. Good for you!!! Well the comments by the mechanic do make sense, but remember, if he replaced the engine, then he most certainly had to disconnect the battery, which, in turn, caused the electrical circuit to your dash and hence your radio to shut off. Assuming the fuses are indeed fine, my first hunch is that you have a loose wire or connection somewhere between the fuse box and the back of your radio. But before you go get dirty and mess with that circuit, the very first thing I would do is replace the radio fuse, regardless of whether it looks and or tests fine. It is a very inexpensive "fix" and may solve the problem; I am aware that some bad/broken fuses can still arc, giving a false positive test. Hopefully, your problem is solved.

    If a replacement fuse does not solve the problem, then you are kind of in a catch 22 situation. Why? Well, you have to make a decision as to whether you personally want to spend the time needed to take the radio out of your dash and check the integrity of your connections or have someone else do it. Tough call, but you have some spunk, you have found this site, and you have made it this far. Go for it, what the hell?

    OK, then the next good step would be for you to check your radio's electrical wire connections before you decide that all hope is lost and that you need to buy a replacement radio. The back of your radio will have a female/male plug connection; sometimes that comes loose and simply re-inserting the connection will do the trick. However, that is easier said than done. In order to expose the back of your radio, you will have to remove it from your dash board. There is a reason why mechanics charge a huge price to fix dash components: it is called labor. It is difficult to describe how to remove your car radio from your dash without my being able to see what your particular dash and radio looks like, but let's give it a try. I will assume that your dash is plastic. It is very likely that your radio will have plastic "shrouds" surrounding what I assume is your rectangular shaped radio. If so, these plastic pieces need to be removed. Be careful, you do not want to break them. A small flat head screw driver with gentle pressure placed underneath the shrouds and at their tab insertion points will usually cause the shrouds to pop off, exposing the metal radio housing. (Your dealer has special tools for all of this, but you are a weekend warrior, so make due with what you have!)

    The radio may be secured in place by either a slide mechanism or screws; you will have to simply eyeball this and figure out how the radio fits into your dash. In general, radios are self-contained units that will slide in and out of a dash, much like a computer hard drive fits into the housing of a computer tower. Well, if you have gotten this far, awesome. This next step is important: Go to your refrigerator, open up that bottle of bubbly, congratulate yourself and then proceed. Now then, gently slide the radio forward and out of the dash; there should be some slack in the rear radio wire and antenna connetions that allows you to do this. Completely remove the wire plug connection, re-insert same, start your car, turn on your radio, and...hopefully, you can now finish that bottle of bubbly as you listen to your favorite guitar rift from Eric Clapton or that great fusion jazz piece by Spyrogyra. NO?

    Well, if all of that fails, by all means finish the bottle of bubbly because you have now determined that a new/replacement radio is in order. This is good. The bright side is that since you have now removed the broken radio, you can now buy a substitute radio (local VW dealer--expensive; local car radio store--less expensive and you can see first hand what they have and they could install it for you; or ebay--least expensive) and slide it into the dash by yourself, having saved the huge labor costs that your local VW mechanic would have charged. Now then, take yourself and someone special out to dinner with the money you saved...and by all means turn up the volume on your new sterio. Good Luck!!!! 95Passat

    P.S. I just replaced the window regulator on my car and save around $400.00 in labor costs.
  • Hi! My Daughter's 1992 VW Passat blew a heater core last weekend. :sick:

    We took the dash apart and replaced the heater core, being VERY careful to replace everything back in the right order.

    Unfortunately, now that the entire dash is back together, we have a small problem - when the headlights are off, the gauges work fine. HOWEVER, when we turn on the headlights, all gauges go to zero - RPM, Fuel, Speedometer. On a side note, the high beam indicator comes on when the headlights are on low and goes off when the headlights are on high.

    Any ideas?
  • dwc2dwc2 Posts: 1
    Dealer (Crown Motors of Holland, MI) replaced the instrument cluster. Now I don't have any shift indicators. Neither the normal (PRND32) or Trip Tronic work. The dealer tells me that the shift indicators are not there in the replacement units.

    VW customer service is of no help.

    Does any one have an answer??
  • I have a 2003 W8 6 speed with 25000 trouble free miles until yesterday. My problem is similar, only worse:
    I have an electrical “Bug” with the following symptoms:
    1. Fuel gauge does not work (i.e. indicates “empty”) and as a result the trip computer “Miles to Empty” does not function
    2. Power seats work but the memories do not function.
    3. Radio works but does not turn off with the key
    4. No indication of Audio system status in the top of Driver Display
    5. Neither key-fob remotes function.
    6. Power door locks do not work.
    7. Power windows do not work.
    8. Power mirrors do not work.
    9. No Air-Conditioning.
    10. No Temperature input to Auto A/C (Indicates °C not °F)
    11. Trip Odometer in Speedometer doesn’t work (resets itself)
    12. Trunk Release does not work (fuel door release does function).
    13. Main dashboard lights work but all auxiliary lights (center console, radio, door switches, steering wheel lights, etc.) do not work.
    14. Auto-Transmission works but when it is placed in manual, transmission doesn’t shift on command.
    15. Horn doesn’t work.
    16. Clock doesn’t keep time
    17. Interior lights do not come on with door opening
    18. Dashboard gauges all go to zero (Intermittent Problem-two occurrences, lasting seconds)
    19. sunroof inop
    I went to the dealer,paid 400 in check out fees, there tech said he needs more time, the dealer said that a connection
    for the buss is broke some were in the car? and possible a ccu module is bad, I pulled the car out they wanted extra 700 to looking? need some help? :confuse:
  • have a 2003 W8 6 speed with 25000 trouble free miles until yesterday. My problem is similar, only worse:
    I have an electrical “Bug” with the following symptoms:
    1. Fuel gauge does not work (i.e. indicates “empty”) and as a result the trip computer “Miles to Empty” does not function
    2. Power seats work but the memories do not function.
    3. Radio works but does not turn off with the key
    4. No indication of Audio system status in the top of Driver Display
    5. Neither key-fob remotes function.
    6. Power door locks do not work.
    7. Power windows do not work.
    8. Power mirrors do not work.
    9. No Air-Conditioning.
    10. No Temperature input to Auto A/C (Indicates °C not °F)
    11. Trip Odometer in Speedometer doesn’t work (resets itself)
    12. Trunk Release does not work (fuel door release does function).
    13. Main dashboard lights work but all auxiliary lights (center console, radio, door switches, steering wheel lights, etc.) do not work.
    14. Auto-Transmission works but when it is placed in manual, transmission doesn’t shift on command.
    15. Horn doesn’t work.
    16. Clock doesn’t keep time
    17. Interior lights do not come on with door opening
    18. Dashboard gauges all go to zero (Intermittent Problem-two occurrences, lasting seconds)
    19. sunroof inop
    I went to the dealer,paid 400 in check out fees, there tech said he needs more time, the dealer said that a connection
    for the buss is broke some were in the car? and possible a ccu module is bad, I pulled the car out they wanted extra 700 to looking? need some help?
  • have a 2003 W8 6 speed with 25000 trouble free miles until yesterday. My problem is similar, only worse:
    I have an electrical “Bug” with the following symptoms:
    1. Fuel gauge does not work (i.e. indicates “empty”) and as a result the trip computer “Miles to Empty” does not function
    2. Power seats work but the memories do not function.
    3. Radio works but does not turn off with the key
    4. No indication of Audio system status in the top of Driver Display
    5. Neither key-fob remotes function.
    6. Power door locks do not work.
    7. Power windows do not work.
    8. Power mirrors do not work.
    9. No Air-Conditioning.
    10. No Temperature input to Auto A/C (Indicates °C not °F)
    11. Trip Odometer in Speedometer doesn’t work (resets itself)
    12. Trunk Release does not work (fuel door release does function).
    13. Main dashboard lights work but all auxiliary lights (center console, radio, door switches, steering wheel lights, etc.) do not work.
    14. Auto-Transmission works but when it is placed in manual, transmission doesn’t shift on command.
    15. Horn doesn’t work.
    16. Clock doesn’t keep time
    17. Interior lights do not come on with door opening
    18. Dashboard gauges all go to zero (Intermittent Problem-two occurrences, lasting seconds)
    19. sunroof inop
    I went to the dealer,paid 400 in check out fees, there tech said he needs more time, the dealer said that a connection
    for the buss is broke some were in the car? and possible a ccu module is bad, I pulled the car out they wanted extra 700 to looking? need some help?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Gesundheit! ;-)
  • thanks?
  • krzysskrzyss Posts: 848
    "refresh".

    Krzys
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Let's give a new member a break. The way things work around here is totally different than every other automotive (and other) message boards in the whole world.

    He/she did not click refresh, he/she responded to three separate posts. Perfectly reasonable behavior on most message boards. Perfectly understandable. Shoot, he/she found his/her way to the right discussion, that's more than many new members are able to figure out on their first visit! ;)

    Can either of you offer a helpful response to the his/her post?
  • krzysskrzyss Posts: 848
    but some things seem to be related to CCM (computer convinience module ?). It sits under the driver's seat ;-) and is prone to flooding.
    It is expensive piece of electronics.

    Krzys

    x3
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    I think you're right. The CCM would be my prime suspect. Conversely, I recall reading another thread on another forum about a bad ground causing an endless stream of similar electrical failures on a Golf, so it could be that, too.
  • I have an 2001; 1.8 litr passat with standard Transmission.
    When I turn off the dash lights the tail lights turn off, is this normal?
    Regards,
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Yes.
  • I have a 2006 VW Passat and over the past few weeks, I have had an issue with my key fob and starting the car. I would go to start the car in the morning, but when I push the fob in to start the engine, it does not start (not even turn over). On my information display, it reads Immobilizer Active and the key fob remains stuck. It goes in and pops partially out, but does not fully release. The dealer told me how to get the key fob out when it is stuck, but once I did that and tried to start the car, I encountered the same problem. I tried this with both key fobs and had the same problem. The radio works while the fob is stuck, but no engine. I even tried getting out, locking the car, then unlocking it to see if it would alleviate the Immobilizer problem, but to no avail. Finally, three hours later, I went back out, tried it and the car started normally! I'm not sure if it is temperature related or not. It was about 9 degree Fahrenheit in the morning and warmer three hours later (but not by much). The dealer now has the car, but no diagnostic codes are coming up and they are trying to recreate the problem. Funny how it never messes up when at a dealer. Anyways, has anyone ever encountered this problem and know of a solution? Thanks.
  • i'm having the same problem but all my problmes are power issues, like power windows don't roll down and if they do i have to keep pressing on the button several times (very fast) and i can not operate my locks or trunk with my remote key i have to do it manually nor will my sunroof open
    and for my lateless trick my turn signal lights will not come on but my harzdous lights come on.... go figure i guess
    were having the same problem i will let my longtime mechanic know of the Comfort Control Module thanks a million
  • whatz the estimated cost for the CCM to be replace ;)
  • Bad gound circuit somewhere. Or perhaps a ground was disconnected before the power side of the circuit was, causeing damage.
  • krzysskrzyss Posts: 848
    Hi !

    My temperature gauge got mind of its own. Sometimes it stays at lowest position and never moves (air vent blows hot, HOT, air). Sometimes it works normal.
    Have anybody heard about termometer going bad? Or is it the gauge cluster? Maybe cables?
    I am not sure it is worth money to pay somebody (dealer?) to troubleshoot it and fix it. I forsee hundreds of dollars spent and no real fix.

    Krzys

    PS I do not want engine to overheat but on the other hand do not want to spend fortune pinpointing spurious problem.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Sounds like the coolant temperature sensor. See repairs here:

    http://www.taligentx.com/passat/maintenance/coolanttempsender/

    It's a common issue.
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