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Anyway, back to Mazda5,at 2.5K there was engine light on, so I had to waste my time to take it for check-up. Some sensor went bad, they replaced it. Then winter came and at freezing temps all these cracking noises came from rear suspension. After a few miles these noises would go away, but problem remained for all these cold days. Now, at 9.5K, I noticed really bad noise at the rear left. Went back to dealership, technician told me that it was very common problem. The rear left shock was replaced. This shock has oil, so I think it freezes during cold temps, and that's where the noise is coming from. I'll see what will happend next winter. I bet cracking noise will be there!! Do you want a bet?? This must be a bad design issue. So it doesn' t matter how many times this part will be replaced, the problem will remain!
I'm just as frustrated and disappointed as any of you experiencing all these problems! How a brand new car can have so many issues in the first place, especially after a few years of production!
I think the best way to have Mazda to issue a recall for all Mazda5 to replace faulty shocks is for each one of us placing these comments here on Edmunds, is to file a complaint at NHTSA website (it will take a few minutes to file, it is very simple). According to this organization, they don't wait for a number of complaints to pile up, they look into the problem right away, and if there is safety related issue (and it actually is!!!!) they will force car manufacturer to issue a recall and to replace the faulty part!
Lastly, I'll wait another year, and if there will be one more problem with this Mazda5, I'll get rid of it and will never buy any other Mazda again!!! Stick with Honda!!!
TOok it to the dealer 2 days ago - he said the problem was rear stablizer bushing was dry and they replaced it. how could a brand new car go bad so quickly.
I just drove today (car belongs to my wife), and see that the noise is still there. Nothing was rectified.
Now after checking the forum, i see it is a big issue with mazda. I live in canada.
Can somebody post any solutions or how to take this up?
The problem has been present for sometime now (years) and Mazda has (hopefully) worked out the kinks, and crunches, and the following Technical Service Bulletin (which is available to most all service centers including independent ones:
One can only assume that your dealer's service center greased the bushings. If you take a look at the service record, it should tell you what was done. Most people who had this servicing applied to their vehicle only had the problem solved for a day or two.
I would suggest speaking to the service manager about the problem. If you can't get a satisfactory resolve then perhaps going to another dealership service center will help. Otherwise, contact Mazda Canada - I prefer the email route as it seems to generate a fairly reliable turnaround and call back (plus it is documented).
For most people, the full servicing as described in the TSB using the most current replacement bushings has resolved the problem. I am 6 months into a crunch-free period and judging by the quietness of the forum, others are doing okay as well.
As my independent service centre technician said to me after months of trying to get the dealer to fix the problem "why are you doing all the work to find out what the problem is?" This is a known problem with a solution.
Let us know how you make out. It is odd that your vehicle is making noise in above -10 degree weather, but others have had a similar problem.
Noise is quite evident. It is like some sort of rod going through a hollow cylinder without any lubricant.
After reading this forum's postings yesterday I contacted the service manager - he said he will replace the shocks in the rear. Will that fix the problem?
I could not find the suspension issue's TSB http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/tsbs/tsbsearch.cfm Could you please help?
I can ask service manager to see that TSB.
Note: this is my first Mazda and don't want to get disappointed. :-(
When the road is wet their is virtually no traction in the front end. My family does not feel safe in it. My wife hates the car and my kids hate the car. Yes I have changed the tires but once is enough. I have 24,000 miles on this car and have never looked forward to getting rid of a car more than this one.
The dealer is Scott Mazda Volvo in Allentown, PA. Scam artists extraordinaire. They tried to screw me on the deal and I had to go sit out in front of the owners office to get satisfaction. The service department staff is always changing and nothing ever gets fixed. I despise Mazda and Scott.
This is my first posting-could some of you "old-timers" direct me to the right path to get these issues repaired before my warranty on the 2007 goes out? I'm on my second set of tires at 25 K miles, the 1st were replaced at 11 K due to inner tread wear and cupping out. In turn I will share with you my success (or lack thereof) in getting the problems corrected. Thanks-Letz_all_win !
Unless you are rich and can afford tires every 17,000 miles, it is not worth the trouble you will incur. You will be zoom zooming every 17,000 miles to a tire store. :sick:
Yes, Toyo tires are crappy tires, but that is my experience with any OEM tire any new car comes with. After 10-15K miles they became noisy and more slippery, but they wear evenly so far :confuse:, so I'm not deterred due to that...
Oh well, good luck with the new car...
I have experience as an alignment tech, uneven tire wear usually indicates alignment or suspension problems, especially on a new car. It is beginning to sound like Mazda has many bad problems with suspension components on several models. It is time for recalls AND a possible Class Action Lawsuit. Recalls happen when enough consumers file complaints with the NHTSB. If cars are unsafe, they need to be recalled.
USA have Lemon Laws to fall back on - not so in Canada thrown out by one province and all others followed suit. This was raised most recently with the influx of unroad worthy cars being imported into Canada, but there was no mention ever of extending this to include poorly manufactured new vehicles.
Now that the economy is in a state and press is being applied to automobile manufacturers to prove their worth in order to receive a bailout, now is the time to increase the pressure from car owners.
I posted some of this information back in Jan 2008 after escalating my frustrations with the ominous crunch and creaking suspension to Mazda Canada. TBS s are available and most mechanics receive these (including Madza sealer/service centers). Whether they chose to apply the "fix' or not is an issue that must be raised with Mazda Canada or Mazda USA. As for the safety of the vehicle it astounds me that Transport Canada has chosen to ignore any complaints that don't fall into their "rules".
Second mazda canada is owned and controlled by mazda usa and so just a profit making deal for them.
Transport canada is useless. look at the number of recalls in the us and how they are only well maybe do it if they really create
also i have spoken to the APA about this and they had told me they had recorded the comment over 2 years ago so not sure why they say they had not heard of it. funnily they said the same thing to me so maybe it is scripted.
Now I have another problem: I had the right front strut replaced and I get shimmy at highway speeds and the car feels 'darty" (follows road grooves/tracks). The dealer claims the the alignment shouldn't be affected by the strut change however the car was vibration-free all the way to 150KM/hr prior to the change. Does anyone know if an alignment is necessary after changing a strut? Seems like it is to me.
Thanks in advance.........
There's an early copy of the service manual floating around on the web. From the illustrations, it looks like would be relatively difficult to mess-up the alignment when changing a strut. The style of strut used mounts in a cylindrical clamp on the wheel-hub/steering-knuckle. Other cars use a different mounting arrangement which is more prone to alignment issues. There appear to be only a few ways to cause a problem [on the 5] -- installing the wrong part, not completely seating the strut's stop against the knuckle, or intentionally adjusting the tie-rod ends.
Here's the short version description text from the service manual.
FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER AND COIL SPRING REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
Caution • Performing the following procedures without first removing the ABS wheel-speed sensor may possibly cause an open circuit in the wiring harness if it is pulled by mistake. Before performing the following procedures, disconnect the ABS wheel-speed sensor wiring harness connector (axle side) and fix the wiring harness to an appropriate place where it will not be pulled by mistake while
servicing the vehicle.
1. Remove in the order indicated in the table.
2. Install in the reverse order of removal.
3. Inspect the total toe-in and adjust it if necessary.
Get it aligned.
Nov 2006 - bushings
March 2007 - bushings and control arms
Dec 2007 - bushings and control arms
Sept 2008 - bushings and control arms
Jan 2009 - bushings and control arms
Currently it is only happening over severe bumps (e.g. speed bumps) but i am sure it will get worse over the next few weeks, as it has in the past.
My question: does a problem that was reported (repeatedly) and never dealt with successfully under warranty, continue to be a warranty repair after the 3 year warranty expires, or are we on the hook for it ourselves?
Re: the creaking and banging, I found out that there is another TSB 02-001/08 that supersedes TSB 02-005/07. Applicable models and '06 and '07 models. It involves a new part number: BP4K-28-012A, the spring seat rubber. I know nothing about cars so I don't know what this does.
I am taking my MZ5 to the dealer tomorrow and will see what they have to say. It is still really cold here in Ontario so I am hoping that if the noise is going to return, I won't have to wait 6 months to find out. Hope this information helps! Could this be the answer we are all looking for???
They replaced the rear stabilizer bushings (Part #: C243-28-156D) under warranty, and that addressed the issue temporarily. The squeaking returned within a couple of weeks of cold Ontario winter driving, and has persisted even in the milder weather. The other noise I'm hearing is a low frequency rumbling from the rear suspension. It sounds like something's fluttering as I drive and when I go over a bump. Very annoying. I'm very interested to know if anyone in Canada has had a lasting resolution to this issue.
A final suspension note: When I'm driving at a speed of 50-60 km/h (30-40 mph) or greater and hit a bump - even a small one, the car will pitch suddenly and requires a quick steering input to correct its track. It's as if it gets totally thrown off by the bump and loses its step. It feels unsafe to me, and I'm curious if anyone else has experienced this.
We have figured out one small issue with noise. We have an aftermarked Mazda "bra" on the front of the car. When the car hits a bump (even at 15mph), the right front tire hits the fender and undoes one snap on the bra. This makes a loud metallic crunching noise, like a can being crushed. I wonder if the shocks/struts have gone bad, causing the front to dip more than it should, causing the tire to rub the body.
I'm interested in what repairs other people have had for this same front right noise issue.
With respect to the unstable twitching of the car when going over a bump at speed, I've been paying more attention when it happens. It feels like it's the rear suspension causing the problem. It rebounds too quickly or bounces up and down immediately after the bump, which prompts the need to quickly correct the steering. In my mind, this is the most serious issue - as there appears to be a safety risk.
Just to piggy back a little. I have gotten all four shocks/struts replaced by Mazda. Replacing the front struts made a huge difference in ride, handling and overall feel. The rear however, although still fairly new and not leaking feel very weak. When going over a dip at a speed of about 35-40mph the rear seems to bounce a bit to much for my liking. I was wondering if anyone here knows if Mazda3 rear shocks fit our MZ5s? If so, I am going to be looking for an aftermarket GAS shock replacement rather then the OEM soft HYDRAULIC shock. Gas shocks tend to be a bit stiffer and provide a better sporty, handling feel IMO, and since no one I know makes one specific to MZ5s, then I want to see if a MZ3 will be a direct fit.
TSB below (13 pages)
I was pretty sure I had read somewhere that a Class Action Suit was in the thinking stages. After reading other forums, it seems that the time is right for such as stand. Mazda (aka Ford) don't think they need any bailout, right now :shades: but I suspect that consumers are a lot less tolerant of inferior workmanship and of being lead around the block by idiotic statements like " oh that's normal noise" or "we can't duplicate the issue" or any other lame excuse. It is the consumer who loses in the end with time wasted in dealing with problems that have not been resolved for a long, long time and presented itself in other Mazda vehicles (Protege) before the Mazda5 came on the scene in late 2005. It just can't be that hard to fix.
For myself, this is the last Mazda I will every own, not that I won't ever be caught with a lemon from another manufacturer, but I know there will be fewer to chose from later on.
I'm definitely not happy with this vehicle.
NHTSA Item Number: 10023313
Service Bulletin #: 0102206
Vehicle/Equipment Make: MAZDA
Vehicle/Eqipment Model: MAZDA5
Model Year: 2008
Mfg Component Code: 021000 SUSPENSION:FRONT
Date of Bulletin: 2007-09-07
Date Added: 2007-11-14
Summary: FRONT CRANKSHAFT BOLT SERVICE WARNING. *NJ
Here is the latest TSB I know of, but does not apply to 08+:
Dealer tried changed few thingsbut it still persisted.
I have moved back to US to a hotter west. I haven't noticed that noise any more (or atleast it is very very less pronounced).
I have 08 car. This wasmy first mazda car. I should say - bit disappointed. as I already had 2 major issues. Signing up for totalcare from mazda as I foresee lot of issues with this car in the future.
I find it quite astounding that Mazda can't or won't provide customers with a permanent fix.
One pst mentioned that "new parts" are warranted for a year, but interestingly, my dealership service department differed with that and said 30 days is the maximum. Could it be that various dealerships offer different warranties? Wouldn't make too much sense to me.
I'm looking at buying Mazda5. I saw a consumer review on edmunds that slammed the vehicle for "wobbling" in the back at high speed on highway. The reviewer claimed the problem exists on Mazda3 and 6 but it is less apparent.
The reviewer claimed to have tested 3 cars and drove a loaner for a week. Rear occupants experienced car sickness due to the wobbling.
Anyone experienced this?
I like this vehicle so much I'm willing to modify it, installing better shocks, stiffer sway bars and so on. I wonder if those will fix it.
The web of dealership/manufacturer excuses and put-offs, even with their most sincere tones are very frustrating to deal with over and over and over again. Not many people have the time available to continue to take their car to the dealership over and over again to hear these putt-offs, half-truths and best excuses. However, empower yourself. Post car issues on these forums, post them on the Mazda forums, contact the Attorney General's office and Better Business Bureau in your State and simply let them know of your frustrations - even if you don't have a long history of problems. Understand you will be met with form letter responses and directions to an even longer arbitration process but your letter will be on file and when enough letters are on file, people take notice. Visit the following sites:http://www.free-lemon-law-guide.com/magnuson-moss-warranty-act.php
and http://www.lemonlaw.com. read all of the information all over the sites.
On the first site, read about the complaint process and learn why manufacturers and dealerships respond with, "we can't duplicate the noise or problem" or "we test drove your car and everything was fine" and many of the other lines we hear. Read about why you can go beyond manufacturer's that insist on arbitration and why it may be more profitable for you to do so - the second site, lemon law.com is offered by a group of lawyers in a small grouping of States and if they take on your case, you don't pay a dime. According to the first site, manufacturers are well aware of many recurrent problems from year to year and do nothing about it. In the long run, if someone chooses to obtain a lawyer and file a case, it is cheaper for them to settle the case before it goes to court. It is even cheaper for them to wait it out knowing that most people grow tired of 800# customer disservice help, being transferred from one service person to the next only to be lost in the miscommunication of the many "helpful" people and repeated visits to dealerships. They know that most people will not choose to find a lawyer and will usually give up and either keep their car and shoulder the burden of problems or sell their "lemon" and buy a new vehicle.
Is this not what put the auto industry in the precarious position it is now finding itself? People spoke loud and clear with the cars for clunkers - Oops!, I mean clunkers for cars program (mistake intended). Was the message not obvious from the public to the manufacturers? Sell cars at reasonable prices and the public will buy them. The next loud message needs to be about selling quality cars to begin with so that these frustrating, time consuming and expensive car problems can give way to higher quality maintenance. I know I would spend more money on preventive maintenance to keep my car running in tip top shape if I didn't have to be concerned with being nickled and dimed ($50's and $100's) by manufacturer defect problems that ultimately cost me in many ways.
Yes, please keep posting car issues. It is so helpful to many of us that use these forums to empower ourselves. I am finding issues with my '09 sport manual - car pulls to the right (even after many attempts by the dealership to correct), there are strange noises from the right front passenger's side engine area that have been diagnosed as: water from a/c condenser splashing on exhaust, condenser switch, condenser thermomister, water not draining properly from condenser. Nothing has been done to correct the problem as each time, with each new diagnosis I am told everything is normal and fine. I only hear the noise while the condenser is engaged and the car is moving (best heard between 15-40mph. The noise is not heard in idle. If it were a switch or thermomister, should it not happen all of the time while in idle or at high speeds? I also experienced a high vibration at highway speeds in my '09 sport manual. The left rear side and passenger's seat shook violently. Even though I was told it was "normal" vibration, the dealership did replace two tires. There still is an abnormal vibration at highway speeds although the vibration is less than before the tires were replaced. Even though the dealership insists everthing is within manufacturers specifications and everything is fine, no one will guarantee the alignment and vibration issues will not cause excessive and abnormal tire wear such as has been huge problems with the 2006 models that ended up in Canada and the UK.
After one alignment done by the dealership (to correct the pulling to the right problem), when I started my car, the car violently rocked side to side and I heard a high pitch whine like a weed whacker noise or a forced air noise. The side to side rocking was during ignition and the high pitched noise lasted for about a minute or two. The car did this two more times that same day (only drove it a total of about 20 miles that day). Dealership told me I must have tried to start the car while it was already running - 3 times?! :lemon:
I know how that feels. It seems to me that less and less atention is given to the expertise of the service departments.
I think there is a general feeling that cars need ess and less maintenance. A few scripts are good enough to guide anybody through fixing problems. Obviously wrong.
In the last years I've visited 3 Ford and 3 Mazda dealerships and found the same lack of smart mechanics.
I have a friend who had Toyota religion all his life. He is stunned to see the same going down hill with his new Sequoia.
I intend to to buy a new 2010 MZ5 because it is simple enough for me to maintain and fix myself. I have a MZ CX-7 now (lease) that has 20k miles on it. I am disapointed to hear and feel all kinds of vibration and steering noises. ALL apeared after service visits. It's a shame!
Inner tire treadwear: my problems started with this issue. At 5K miles, after the tires were rotated, I noticed inner tread wear on all 4 tires. After the rotation, could hear tire noise because they were cupped out. At 8K miles, one of the service writers finally responded to my insistence to get this checked. She made a call, at 11K , my Toyos tires were replaced with Kumhos' (warranty).
Next, enter the crunch/pop noise in the front suspension. It was cold weather as some of you mentioned when it happened on your vehicles. After several "not duplicated this visit" comments, a Master Tech observed loose play in the tie rod ends. They replaced the rack unit and the strut bushings. Problem solved for now.
Also experienced popping noise in the rear suspension. A beefed up Ford(?) part was ordered and installed with new bushings. On the way home, every little bump and dip in the road produced a loud clanging in the rear.Returned car to dealer (you'll love this) the tech had installed the parts incorrectly. Parts reinstalled, noise now gone.
The tire wear issue is still evident. 2 more tires were put on (warranty), refused to put on 4, even though all were worn inner tread. By the way, between 8K and 11K, the car alignment was checked, slightly high on camber (positive). For whatever reason, the alignment was outsourced to an independent garage. I spoke with the tech who explained to me that the Mazda 3's , 5's & 6's had no camber adustment, and that they ran a positive camber that made them very responsive in steering, but produced INNER tread wear. He said that adjusting the toe-in could "tweak it" a little. (Just passing on what an independent said, I'm sure a Mazda tech will argue that one). So, at this point, how many of you have had your Mazda 5 issues satisfactorily resolved?
Maybe I will see some of you if there is another "Cash for Clunkers" promotion. Until then, report every issue-call your state attorney general's office if nothing is resolved, and please keep me posted.
I saw that TSB with detailed instructions on how to fix it. I'm waiting to buy a new MZ5, so I thought I may have the same problem.
If I will, I will probably not go to the dealer the second time, since they applied the Mazda fix and did not work. I would find an independent mechanic and fix it for good with 3rd party parts. I may end up having a better vehicle. Better shocks the least.
Mazda fix may be good, but execution often lacks at these dealerships, especially for warranty repairs. They get paid no matter what.
The rubber bushings can be adapted from another vehicle and thus you can experiment. I will assume the problem is with the lithium grease and the way it is applied and also if it is retained or pushed out over time. Some kind of wrapping may help (not pretty).
And this is all speculation. I'm wondering if any of the mechanics identified what is actually making the noise. I suspect that they just apply the prescribed fix without diagnosing much.
Sorry for your troubles.