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Mazda5 Suspension



  • sofienycsofienyc Posts: 8
    I just got my 5 back from the shop...and the result in the quest of quieting the rear suspension was a fruitful one...finally someone got it right. The problem was bad read bushing on the stabilzer bar and a bad left rear shock. Now I have to wait for the cold weather to test it...but I think that it does feel better now and at least it does not sound like a squeeky old mattress.
  • kukareka1kukareka1 Posts: 4
    I agree with you regarding Honda cars. I've had 3 Hondas (brand new) before buying 2007 Mazda5 Touring. None of my Hondas ever ever had any problems (I stil own one with 80K). If Honda would have any similar car to Mazda5 (I know they do have them in Japan, [non-permissible content removed] are just too conservative with American market), I'd readily pay a couple grands more for Honda instead.
    Anyway, back to Mazda5,at 2.5K there was engine light on, so I had to waste my time to take it for check-up. Some sensor went bad, they replaced it. Then winter came and at freezing temps all these cracking noises came from rear suspension. After a few miles these noises would go away, but problem remained for all these cold days. Now, at 9.5K, I noticed really bad noise at the rear left. Went back to dealership, technician told me that it was very common problem. The rear left shock was replaced. This shock has oil, so I think it freezes during cold temps, and that's where the noise is coming from. I'll see what will happend next winter. I bet cracking noise will be there!! Do you want a bet?? This must be a bad design issue. So it doesn' t matter how many times this part will be replaced, the problem will remain!
    I'm just as frustrated and disappointed as any of you experiencing all these problems! How a brand new car can have so many issues in the first place, especially after a few years of production!
    I think the best way to have Mazda to issue a recall for all Mazda5 to replace faulty shocks is for each one of us placing these comments here on Edmunds, is to file a complaint at NHTSA website (it will take a few minutes to file, it is very simple). According to this organization, they don't wait for a number of complaints to pile up, they look into the problem right away, and if there is safety related issue (and it actually is!!!!) they will force car manufacturer to issue a recall and to replace the faulty part!
    Lastly, I'll wait another year, and if there will be one more problem with this Mazda5, I'll get rid of it and will never buy any other Mazda again!!! Stick with Honda!!!
  • coolmazda5coolmazda5 Posts: 525
    Don't blame you, yet my last car was a Honda, which I traded in for a 2nd Mazda5. Honda is OK but I've been happier with the Mazdas so far (not that they are perfect, but my Honda experience was not very positive)...
  • drb05drb05 Posts: 24
    I bought my car 2 months ago. Because of moving didn't notice the rear suspension noise that came with driving over speed bumps etc. Now I very clearly notice that.

    TOok it to the dealer 2 days ago - he said the problem was rear stablizer bushing was dry and they replaced it. how could a brand new car go bad so quickly.

    I just drove today (car belongs to my wife), and see that the noise is still there. Nothing was rectified.

    Now after checking the forum, i see it is a big issue with mazda. I live in canada.

    Can somebody post any solutions or how to take this up?

  • trishr1trishr1 Posts: 75
    Can you tell us what year this vehicle is - 2007 or 2008?
    The problem has been present for sometime now (years) and Mazda has (hopefully) worked out the kinks, and crunches, and the following Technical Service Bulletin (which is available to most all service centers including independent ones:
    TSB 02-005/07
    One can only assume that your dealer's service center greased the bushings. If you take a look at the service record, it should tell you what was done. Most people who had this servicing applied to their vehicle only had the problem solved for a day or two.
    I would suggest speaking to the service manager about the problem. If you can't get a satisfactory resolve then perhaps going to another dealership service center will help. Otherwise, contact Mazda Canada - I prefer the email route as it seems to generate a fairly reliable turnaround and call back (plus it is documented).
    For most people, the full servicing as described in the TSB using the most current replacement bushings has resolved the problem. I am 6 months into a crunch-free period and judging by the quietness of the forum, others are doing okay as well.
    As my independent service centre technician said to me after months of trying to get the dealer to fix the problem "why are you doing all the work to find out what the problem is?" This is a known problem with a solution.
    Let us know how you make out. It is odd that your vehicle is making noise in above -10 degree weather, but others have had a similar problem.
  • drb05drb05 Posts: 24
    Year is 2008. Current temperature is 11C.

    Noise is quite evident. It is like some sort of rod going through a hollow cylinder without any lubricant.

    After reading this forum's postings yesterday I contacted the service manager - he said he will replace the shocks in the rear. Will that fix the problem?

    I could not find the suspension issue's TSB Could you please help?

    I can ask service manager to see that TSB.

    Note: this is my first Mazda and don't want to get disappointed. :-(

  • dfz1dfz1 Posts: 6
    This is the worst car I have purchased in modern times. The rear end noise has been a constant annoyance. Yes bushings replaced etc etc etc. That is after they had it for a month to fix a water leak the month I took delivery. I have eight more months to go and will walk away from Mazda and Ford.

    When the road is wet their is virtually no traction in the front end. My family does not feel safe in it. My wife hates the car and my kids hate the car. Yes I have changed the tires but once is enough. I have 24,000 miles on this car and have never looked forward to getting rid of a car more than this one.

    The dealer is Scott Mazda Volvo in Allentown, PA. Scam artists extraordinaire. They tried to screw me on the deal and I had to go sit out in front of the owners office to get satisfaction. The service department staff is always changing and nothing ever gets fixed. I despise Mazda and Scott.
  • Most of you that posted about the crunching noises (front, mainly rear) don't mention tire wear. My problems started with inner tread wear, even though the alignment said that everything was "in spec". Do some people just not notice it, or some of you didn't experience it? My tires had just been rotated & balanced, the "full circle check" had no mention of uneven tread wear, but when I got home after that visit the front tires, which had been moved from the rear had easily recognizable inside tread wear. The rear lower control arms have been replaced-now I have the "crunching" noise that many on this post describe. Does that mean that they were replaced with a pre-2007 set with bad bushings?
    This is my first posting-could some of you "old-timers" direct me to the right path to get these issues repaired before my warranty on the 2007 goes out? I'm on my second set of tires at 25 K miles, the 1st were replaced at 11 K due to inner tread wear and cupping out. In turn I will share with you my success (or lack thereof) in getting the problems corrected. Thanks-Letz_all_win !
  • I have a 2006 Mazda 5 and had to have the tires replaced at 17K - it was covered under the warranty though and they put good tires on not those terrible Toyos.
  • I'm curious - what is wrong with the Toyos?
  • Recommend that you not buy a Mazda. Bought a Mazda 3 2006. At around 17,000 miles I began to have problems with the tires. After complaining several times to the dealer, I was referred to the Toyo Dealers to address the warranty. I ran into major problems with them in honoring the warranty and ended up buying 4 new Firestone tires at 21,000 miles. Again at around 20,000 miles, I began having the same problems. I had the tires aligned, rotated and balanced every 3,000-6,000 miles and nothing improved the wear of the tires. Neither the Mazda dealership nor the main Mazda offices were willing to do anything to remedy the problem or find a solution. I finally traded the car in in 2008 and don’t plan to ever buy another Mazda in my life. I have read blogs on both the Mazda 3 and Mazda 6 with the same problems.
    Unless you are rich and can afford tires every 17,000 miles, it is not worth the trouble you will incur. You will be zoom zooming every 17,000 miles to a tire store. :sick:
  • Interesting, a 2006 Mazda3 with OEM Toyos? I thought they were Goodyear Eagle RS-A?

    Yes, Toyo tires are crappy tires, but that is my experience with any OEM tire any new car comes with. After 10-15K miles they became noisy and more slippery, but they wear evenly so far :confuse:, so I'm not deterred due to that...

    Oh well, good luck with the new car...
  • What problem did you have with the Toyo tires-uneven wear, noise, bad ride, or something entirely different? Do you still have the car, and are you having any suspension/uneven wear problems?

    I have experience as an alignment tech, uneven tire wear usually indicates alignment or suspension problems, especially on a new car. It is beginning to sound like Mazda has many bad problems with suspension components on several models. It is time for recalls AND a possible Class Action Lawsuit. Recalls happen when enough consumers file complaints with the NHTSB. If cars are unsafe, they need to be recalled.
  • So as the weather cools down here in the NE...the noise from the rear suspension is back. It was so embarrassing to have friends in the car with that noise constantly under them squeaking and creaking over the road. One point in our trip they asked if the car was going to make it to our destination. This is the worst piece of crap and I have owned one...a Yugo! That was more solidly built thant this Mazda5. I tried trading it in for a new VW Passat Wagon and they will only give me 8000 for is a 2007 with less than 12k miles on it! I guess the word is out on how crappy this car is. I just drove 6 hours in it and the drivers seat is so uncomfortable that the lower half of my legs were numb when I got out, I almost fell to the floor! I am going back to the dealer to see if they can fix it. I will go with a Honda next time...Pilot...gas prices be damn!
  • About a month ago, I had posted saying that I was hearing an occasional "knock" or "pop" coming from the right front suspension area. Well...after much nagging to the dealer they performed the front sway bar bushing bulletin with the most updated part (#CC29-34-156C) and voila! two weeks later after fix and no more noise and even the steering feels a lot more precise. Freakin dealers, why does one have to go to the extent to nagging them so much to do something that it is under warranty and there's a bulletin for!!! OH! I know because techs want the gravy jobs rather then the lower paying warranty work. Gee good grief! Nonetheless my MZ5 is fixed and feels great.
  • Funny, my creaking is back too (Ontario, Canada) now that it has become colder (-12C). Too bad I'm out of warranty on my 2008 and I'm sure I'll have to pay for a repair that should have been done properly in the first place! I think If Mazda cannot find an engineer within their company then grab one from any other car far as I know, no other car creaks like this when it's cold out. And yes that drivers seat. I'm 6' and find that the seat does not go back far enough for me to stretch out. Therefore my right foot is bent at a weird angle when on the gas pedal. Raising the seat does nothing because it moves forward at the same time. My first and last Mazda too!
  • I have the same noise from the same area. Had it since around 20,000KM but the Mazda dealer in Whitby could never fix it.....until now when they say it's the strut that needs to be replaced. I'm out of warranty so it's going to be AT MY COST (half and half anyway) and to me that's just plain fraud. Yes I will be glad to get rid of it this summer if I can.
  • In my opinion the best way to solve the problem is sell the car!! Then run RUN as far away from Mazda as you can!! My Toyos were also lousy but better in the snow than the RS-A's the dealer said were "superior" tires. At $200+inst a pop I'm really feeling ripped off!
  • I've had the suspension "fixed" on my 2007 Mazda 5 TWICE. Once they replaced the front bushings and the second time the struts. I STILL have the crunching, creaking, knocking and banging sounds in cold weather, especially on rough roads. I am bringing it in to the dealer again next week and will put up a real fuss this time. Of all the posts on this and other websites, there seems to be no satisfactory resolution to this problem. SOOO FRUSTRATED!!! :mad:
  • trishr1trishr1 Posts: 75
    petesmazda5 - have you had any dealings with the APA in Ontario? I did have the opportunity to speak to the head fellow awhile ago and he had not heard of this problem with the Mazda5 - it wouldn't be broadcast by Mazda that's for sure. It would be very interesting to hear what the Automobile Protection Association had to say about this ongoing problem.
    USA have Lemon Laws to fall back on - not so in Canada thrown out by one province and all others followed suit. This was raised most recently with the influx of unroad worthy cars being imported into Canada, but there was no mention ever of extending this to include poorly manufactured new vehicles.
    Now that the economy is in a state and press is being applied to automobile manufacturers to prove their worth in order to receive a bailout, now is the time to increase the pressure from car owners.
    I posted some of this information back in Jan 2008 after escalating my frustrations with the ominous crunch and creaking suspension to Mazda Canada. TBS s are available and most mechanics receive these (including Madza sealer/service centers). Whether they chose to apply the "fix' or not is an issue that must be raised with Mazda Canada or Mazda USA. As for the safety of the vehicle it astounds me that Transport Canada has chosen to ignore any complaints that don't fall into their "rules".
  • the main reason that Mazda Canada does not do the fix it 2 fold a the mechanics get paid a flat rate for the fix and so it is 'less worthy ' of their time.

    Second mazda canada is owned and controlled by mazda usa and so just a profit making deal for them.

    Transport canada is useless. look at the number of recalls in the us and how they are only well maybe do it if they really create

    also i have spoken to the APA about this and they had told me they had recorded the comment over 2 years ago so not sure why they say they had not heard of it. funnily they said the same thing to me so maybe it is scripted.
  • What year is your Mz5? I will take the TSB re: that part to my dealer, but my Mz5 is a 2007 and the TSB seems to apply to '05 models.
  • my Mazda5 is a 2006. I have had the front tie rods and bearings and suspension replaced. Just this last visit I had to have the motor mount replaced because it ruptured and was leaking yucky black oil all over the ground. If it's not one thing it is another with this car. Oh yeah, my key remote stopped working so they replaced that for free too and told me to bring in my extra key as well - some kind of problem with that too!
  • Thanks for posting the part number vg33e power. I pestered my dealer and he changed the two bushings for free even though my warranty is up. I won't hold my breath but two days of -10C to -13C and not a creak to be heard.

    Now I have another problem: I had the right front strut replaced and I get shimmy at highway speeds and the car feels 'darty" (follows road grooves/tracks). The dealer claims the the alignment shouldn't be affected by the strut change however the car was vibration-free all the way to 150KM/hr prior to the change. Does anyone know if an alignment is necessary after changing a strut? Seems like it is to me.
    Thanks in advance.........
  • 5_more5_more Posts: 43
    On this one, I think I may side with the dealer -- about the alignment.

    There's an early copy of the service manual floating around on the web. From the illustrations, it looks like would be relatively difficult to mess-up the alignment when changing a strut. The style of strut used mounts in a cylindrical clamp on the wheel-hub/steering-knuckle. Other cars use a different mounting arrangement which is more prone to alignment issues. There appear to be only a few ways to cause a problem [on the 5] -- installing the wrong part, not completely seating the strut's stop against the knuckle, or intentionally adjusting the tie-rod ends.

    Here's the short version description text from the service manual.

    Caution • Performing the following procedures without first removing the ABS wheel-speed sensor may possibly cause an open circuit in the wiring harness if it is pulled by mistake. Before performing the following procedures, disconnect the ABS wheel-speed sensor wiring harness connector (axle side) and fix the wiring harness to an appropriate place where it will not be pulled by mistake while
    servicing the vehicle.

    1. Remove in the order indicated in the table.
    2. Install in the reverse order of removal.
    3. Inspect the total toe-in and adjust it if necessary.
  • Align your MZ5 petesmazda5, replacing the struts will definately need an aligment job afterwards. I am highly surprised that the dealer did not sell you one when they replaced the strut. A vehicle out of aligment will definately track and create a shimmy (especially fronts) because all three wheels are going straight while one of them is out of aligment and trying to go either inward or outward making it sort of skip and waste your tire a lot quicker.

    Get it aligned.
  • riproyriproy Posts: 57
    Yes, our noise is back too. Our 2006 has been repaired 5 times, front and rear, for this including twice since the TSB:
    Nov 2006 - bushings
    March 2007 - bushings and control arms
    Dec 2007 - bushings and control arms
    Sept 2008 - bushings and control arms
    Jan 2009 - bushings and control arms
    Currently it is only happening over severe bumps (e.g. speed bumps) but i am sure it will get worse over the next few weeks, as it has in the past.
    My question: does a problem that was reported (repeatedly) and never dealt with successfully under warranty, continue to be a warranty repair after the 3 year warranty expires, or are we on the hook for it ourselves?
  • I have the five year extended warranty on my '07 and the service manager informed me that new parts are warranted for the duration of the warranty (3.5 years remaining on mine.) I was told that otherwise, new parts are warranted for one year even if the car is no longer under warranty.

    Re: the creaking and banging, I found out that there is another TSB 02-001/08 that supersedes TSB 02-005/07. Applicable models and '06 and '07 models. It involves a new part number: BP4K-28-012A, the spring seat rubber. I know nothing about cars so I don't know what this does.

    I am taking my MZ5 to the dealer tomorrow and will see what they have to say. It is still really cold here in Ontario so I am hoping that if the noise is going to return, I won't have to wait 6 months to find out. Hope this information helps! Could this be the answer we are all looking for???
  • bman9bman9 Posts: 5
    This is my first post...but it is clear that many Mazda5 owners are having the same problem. My 2007 Mazda5 Sport has the same loud creaking/squeaking in cold weather. At my most recent service appointment, I mentioned it and the Service Advisor (who I went to high school with) gave me a embarrassed "not sure we can truly eliminate the problem" response. It was clear that I'm not the only customer at this dealership with the problem.

    They replaced the rear stabilizer bushings (Part #: C243-28-156D) under warranty, and that addressed the issue temporarily. The squeaking returned within a couple of weeks of cold Ontario winter driving, and has persisted even in the milder weather. The other noise I'm hearing is a low frequency rumbling from the rear suspension. It sounds like something's fluttering as I drive and when I go over a bump. Very annoying. I'm very interested to know if anyone in Canada has had a lasting resolution to this issue.

    A final suspension note: When I'm driving at a speed of 50-60 km/h (30-40 mph) or greater and hit a bump - even a small one, the car will pitch suddenly and requires a quick steering input to correct its track. It's as if it gets totally thrown off by the bump and loses its step. It feels unsafe to me, and I'm curious if anyone else has experienced this.
  • vg33e powervg33e power Posts: 314
    On your final note....perhaps you have a bad front strut or rear shock, have them looked at or check yourself for leakage on the body of the strut/shock. I had mine replaced under warranty rear ones at 40K miles and front ones at 47K.
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