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Comments
Thanks to this site, we found the best price at Succucci Honda and purchased it over the net at succicci.com. We paid $785.
Too bad enwats can't seem to get a good deal like this on their AT Civic, but then their price would be $700 more.
The Honda computers apparently can tell that my car has the HondaCare warranty and the local dealer just bills the warranty for anything I need.
Generally, buying a warranty from your local dealer is usually a rip-off because they don't come anywhere close to meeting the price of the on-line guys. Sometimes they charge $700-$1200 more.
I am looking for an LX AT in the TAMPA area, most delaers in FLA charge some bogus pocket lining fee of $600 - nothing but pure junk/profit
What dealer in & around TAMPA (or elsewhere in FLA) will deal and make a reasonable offer.
I don't mind the store making some money but an ADM (Added Dealer Markup) or PROFIT FEE of $600.00 is just plain CRAP!!
Can ya help a brother out??
they only want to give me 6000 for my 2003 maxima that I have babied for the last 4 years. Than they give me an interest rate of 7.45%. Now if I take the 5year 80K bumper to bumper warranty for 2300 and the alarm for 400 they will nock down the interest rate to 6.75%.
so now my wife sits with the options book and wants a spoiler and the day night mirror......
so my sweet deal is slowly going out the window...
Oh and I pulled out the Bernardi web page and they went nuts stating " there is no way this is HONDA", "this is just from a warranty broker", "this is not bumper to bumper coverage"
So it was a fun 3 hours at the dealer.
Good luck on the next round.
The $600 dealer fee is in addition to the $595 dest charge and yes, it is oure profit. I decided a long time ago that I was NOT going to pay it (even though itis on my contract). Use the EASY steps that I outlined in my previous post but don't start right now ... wait until the third week of August. Spend the next three weeks making sure of EXACTLY what you want and test drive it, then walk off the lot.
Around the 25th of the month take your dealer printout and request quotes from each dealer, letting them know you will be buying by the end of the month. Follow those steps ... all you need is one low quote and you are gold. Just make sure you've done your price research and can recognize a good deal when you see it.
BTW, I ended up paying the dealer fee (it's listed on my contract) BUT I negotiated a price $700 or so BELOW invoice, which pretty much wiped out the "dealer fee".
Good luck ...
It's time to shop somewhere else. You're not going to get a fair deal from them.
Try to see if you can get your financing from somewhere else such as a credit union, bank or even like Capital One online that will give you a pre-approved check that you can go shopping with. That takes away their scam on the overpriced extended warranty.
Get several full quotes from other dealers including trade-in value on your Maxima and all accessories you want. Because in your case the true OTD price includes the trade-in and accessories.
NOPE ... in FLA, the dealers charge an astronomical BS, "Junk/Pocket lining/profit" fee that ranges from 350 to 600 and it does absolutely NOTHING but add PURE profit to the Owners or general manager's pockets.
It's total BS
I paid 20600, which is little below Edmunds recommended amount. I live in N.VA so prices are little higher and these cars go fast so dealers dont come down much. My credit is only 715 and Honda gave me a rate of 6.9@60months which was better than Capital One. I would recommend looking into Capitol one or another place before you go in, so you tell them to beat this rate if they want your business. I have had my car almost a week now and absolutly loving it. First Honda I have owned and its a blast on my 50 mile one way commute, buts thats N.Va for ya
A very good deal considering your high sales tax rate AND the fact that auto transmission is a +$700 option over the MT. Go for it!
Is this a decent price for the area?
Thanks!
I hope I did well,
Price: $15,610 (total price paid)
Fees: License fee: $100.00
conveyance fee: $297.00
Any price under invoice is a good thing. Just make sure that the dealer is not charging you any exorbitant "dealer" fees. What will your OTD price, including all fees, taxes, etc be?
Is $15,610 your OTD price? If so then that is an insanely geeat deal.
Invoice on that car is $16,200. Your fees add $400. the sales tax rate in that state is 6% (or $940). All these add up to $16,950 which is a fantastic good deal.
If the $15,610 includes all these fees then you sales price would have been $14,270 and personally I would not believe that deal was for real. They would have lost a LOT of money on that car.
I am still having trouble with the Bernardi warranty. I have called and emailed with questions and noe one replies. Is this a warranty service or do they just sell warranty at cost? Has anyone here used this warranty, if so was there any hang ups?
I did find a thread in the accord forum regarding the extended warranty.
Oh and if that dealer in connecticut can make another deal like that I may take the ride up there....
Thanks everyone
Vince
The thread on the Accord forum that you mentioned is terrific and has testimony from people who have purchased a warranty from Bernardi as well as another dealer that usually has the same price Saccucci.
To answer your question, both are actual Honda dealers. One is in MA the other in RI. You can look them up on Honda's web-site and get their main phone numbers.
Here are their web-sites:
http://www.myhondawarranty.com/
http://www.hondawarrantyinfo.com/
I think they sell the warranties at just a slight profit and since they are doing so much volume they are able to sell a lot less than local dealers generally do.
I purchased a warranty online in 2003 for my Civic and it works great. I just tell my local dealer that I have the warranty, it automatically shows up in their computer and they get me whatever I need.
"Where sorry but due to Florida law, Florida Residents are not eligible for online service contracts. Please contact your local dealer."
Lovely ...
I got a good price -- not the best price I've seen (based on messages posted here) -- but it's a very competitive one. I bought my car from Autowest Honda in Roseville, CA.
Here's the breakdown:
Price: $16,300
OTD: $17,829.26 (for specific break-down of tax and fees, see below)
Tax: $1,267.51
Document Prep Fee: $55 (which is the cap in California)
DMV Electronic Filing Fee: $28
License Fee: $170
California Tire Fee: 8.75
For anyone who is interested, this is how I ultimately came to buy the car: I started by contacting all the local dealers within the area I was willing to drive (~1 hour) off of Edmunds.com. From there, I took the lowest price quote and asked the other dealers if they could beat it.
For me, the lowest price quote was for $16,307 (from Lodi Honda). Unfortunately, at that price, they were only willing to sell white Civics (which I did not want). Alternately, they were willing to sell me my preferred color car, but only if I bought the Protection Package (a.k.a. "propack"), which includes wheel locks, splash guards, and a trunk tray, at $318. The problem for me was that I didn't want a white car, and I didn't want the propack.
I contacted other dealers, indicating that I had a quote for $16,307 but that the dealership didn't have the color I wanted at that price, and asking if they could beat it, or at least match. Of all the dealers who I contacted, all but one said that they couldn't match. The one who could was Autowest Honda.
I should add that when I asked Autowest Honda to match, I called up the internet department (rather than emailing, which I had done with the other dealerships) and said that I would come in immediately that day and buy the car if they could match the 16,300 price in silver. They said yes, and so I came in, and bought the car.
I bought the car on July 24th. The theory I've heard elsewhere is that you want to obviously buy close to the end of the month but not on the 31st, for example, when it's possible that the dealership has already hit their volume bonus and no longer has the incentive to make you as good a deal.
I need to know what the current BUY rate lease Money Factor is for a CIVIC LX with Auto tranz at 12/k yr
My credit is Tier 1 (over 730)
I have conflicting numbers that range from .00285 to .0300
I know the residual is 61% w/12K yr
Does HONDA do 10K/yr or even 7.5K yr?? If so what is the residual and MF on those.
I am located in the GULF COAST (TAMPA AREA) of Florida
(and yes the dealer "fee" of $600 is total crap)
Any 1 have a good dealer that are willing to recommend that is making deals on Civic's?
The lowest price so far is 17,044 and this includes the $600 dealer "pocket lining" fee
Thank You for your help
SKIP
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Edmunds Moderator
The invoice listed by Edmunds is $16,900 including a $595 destination charge. If you want a more accurate analysis of your quote ... break it out. Give us your tax rate, tag/title fees and any additional dealer fees.
I can tell yo (based upon my purchase of the same car with MT) that your quote would be a little high for me, personally. I can't be more specific until you break it down for me.
Considering that you paid for an AT AND you paid the lofty sales tax rate of 8.75%, you got a great deal on this car. You got a better deal than I did ... but I'm not complaining, you don't live in Florida (the rip-off-off-the-consumer state) with their legal $600 "dealer" fee. Give me a break ...
Price: $16,659 + 595 destination charge
Tax (6.5%): $1121.5
Title: $143
License: $75
No other fees. If the invoice listed by Edmunds is correct then I should be able to bargain it down more. Also, it's the right move to wait until the 08's come out before buying my car correct?
Which would be a better decision financially if I am planning to keep the car for a minimum of 2yrs.
Tx
yajiv01
At that price you are almost $400 over invoice for that car ($16,659 + $595 dest = $17,254 - $16,900 as listed by Edmunds). At a minimum you should be able to negotiate the price down that much.
Remember, the dealer has at least three profit areas to work with to get money out of you: $ above invoice + $ from dealer holdback + $ from dealer fees ($0 in your case). Holdback on your car is 3% of base MSRP or $533. This is another area where a dealer may want to lower your price ... depending upon how hungry they are to sell the car.
Good luck ...
Need more information. List your taxes and fees on the new car. That deal on the '06 EX looks really good though.
The Sandman
Taxes - 1706
Title - 170
Doc Fees - 35
If you haven't already done so, run the warranty you want using an out of state address, so you can at least see what prices these dealers sell these warranties for. Compare it to a price from a local dealer and it will be quite eye opener. It's often $600-$1000 less.
I wonder if the warranty could be purchased using an out-of-state address of a relative and your VIN number. Once the warranty is entered into the Honda computers under your VIN, you can use it nationwide.
According to the extended warranty forum in the Accord group, the warranty prices (at least from these two dealers) increase after you have more than 6,000 miles on your vehicle and continue to increase until your factory warranty has expired.
So the sooner you buy, the better deal you should get.
That's why it's best to have all the variables known so one can make the best logical decision.
The Sandman
(Still love the car but the a/c had a slight problem going home last week which has not reappeared as of yet, took a bit to get cool. Will have the dealer check it out at my 2nd oil & filter change. Still at 50% oil life and only 9230 miles.)
Could you please provide breakdown and the out of door price for a 2007 Civic Lx Sedan bought in LA/Orange County,CA?
Regarding extended warranty- are the ones listed here on Edmunds different and priced better than those offered by the dealers?
What are your thoughts about using a buying service such as USAA united services automobile association.
Obviously I have almost no experience in this new car process.
Thanks!!!
If you just want to sit back and do nothing ... then use a buying service. Some charge a fee and many are "partnered" with the dealer ... so you can usually get a better deal by yourself. Post the car specifics you are looking for including your tax rate and fees and we can try to help you out. Go back a few pages and read my posting about how easy it was for me to buy a car.
Remember, the end of the month is coming up VERY soon so do your research and prepare.
Pretty soon, I imagine, the nav screen will also be showing the internet, and again, I would think that's an awful idea.
Likewise, I think an extended warranty on something like a new Civic is ridiculous, unless you keep a car for 5 years or so, and lots of people don't anymore. Also, if the car is built right and has great history for repairs (as per Consumer Reports for example), it is likely throwing good money away. That's just an opinion.
Recommend avoiding the NAV (it adds over $1,500 to the cost) and getting a removable unit if needed. What part of Virginia are you in? I did a LOT of research before buying and some of the BEST seals are coming from northern Virginia and around DC. By the way, invoice on the non-NAV EX is $18,500 with automatic and including dest. Your dealer fee sucks (just like mine did) but your tax is really low. You should be able to get an OTD price in the $19,200 to $19,800 range. Determine what price you feel is fair and reasonable then ask a number of dealers for quotes. Have them bid (lower their price) to get your business ... but wait until near the end of the month.