2013 and earlier-Honda Civic Prices Paid and Buying Experience

18182848687208

Comments

  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    The anti-theft radio is pretty much a joke, since the OEM radio would only fit in another Civic. So not much danger of another new Civic owner ripping you off :D . It works like all these do, remove the constant power from the radio and you need a code to make it work again.

    All Hondas have had "engine immobilizer" technology for several years now. A digital code in the key must be read by the car computer or it will not allow the car to start.

    The EX and LX models come with a security system and keyless entry. In the past, you could get keyless and security for a model not-equipped via a dealer (or user) installed accessory, but I don't see this listed yet for the DX models. Other than the flashing radio light, I don't think there is any other alarm indicator on the cars equipped with the security system.

    Dennis
  • pham0167pham0167 Member Posts: 48
    I thought that the new Hondas only have engine immobilizer, keyless entry, and anti-theft radio. What type of security system is on the EX and LX models you are referring to? is it equipped with a siren that goes off based on sensors? if so, is it a shock sensor in case something bumps into the car or someone pulls on the door handle or a sound sensor in case someone breaks the windows in? Also, does Honda still do security system installs/upgrades? It would be nice to have a 2 way remote to get paged/warned if the alarm goes off.
  • mcwolfmcwolf Member Posts: 4
    I got quotes from 10 different dealers and the lowest possible quote is OTD $19400.

    It's CA and does anybody here experience similar situation?

    Is it the same in other states?
  • satchmosatchmo Member Posts: 34
    FWIW, last week-end my daughter purchased a new 2006 Atomic Blue Civic EX MT, with 36 miles on the odometer, for $17,800 (not including taxes & registration). This in the Atlanta, GA area. Considering that the Civic is a hot seller, we thought this was pretty good.
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    $18,355 is MSRP so car + state tax = $19,731.63
    $16,853 is about invoice so car + state tax = $18,116.98

    I have no idea what other fees are required in your state, but I assume some local taxes, title fees, tag fees, etc. The price you mention ($19,400 OTD) is $331 less than the MSRP + state taxes alone - so you are getting some discount - at least $331 + whatever the other fees are.

    You see why OTD is a useless number? If you assume the fees are the same at every CA dealer, what are they selling you the car for? It must be $331 or more off of MSRP - and right now getting anything much off a new 07 Civic can be as good as it gets.

    Dennis
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    That is good. Invoice is $17,479 so you are $321 over. If this price included the dealer "doc" or "prep" fees then it is even better. My daughter got the same car w/AT for $400 over invoice last month + doc fee from a KY dealer - she wanted silver but really loves the atomic blue she ended up with.

    Dennis
  • satchmosatchmo Member Posts: 34
    Yup. The price included everything that went to the dealer. All that remained were state taxes (a rather steep 7%)and the registration. I should add that we spent a fair amount of time researching and shopping around. Also, the sale took place on the last day of the month, when salesmen are often willing to sell at a minimum in order to meet a quota, or maybe win a sales bonus. Finally, the manual transmission cars tend to move less well, and sometimes sell at a lower profit.
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    7% - you sound like you are here in high tax land - TN. We could not find a local dealer to match prices we could get by doing a little travelling (nothing new here) so we hit the road to get the car (KY).

    I was able to get my wife's Accord from a local dealer last year. I got them to get within a couple of hundred of my best price - it was the last day of the month, so we got the car w/o having to drive as much. I am cheapskate and love to get the best deal, but not having to drive a 6 hour round trip was worth paying a little extra. We got the car, went out for a nice dinner, and were home before we would have been done picking up the slightly less expensive out of town car.

    I could have gotten my daughter an Accord I4 SE (LX+CD changer, wheels, and disc brakes) for LESS money than the Civic EX auto - but she wanted the Civic more - and it gets a good bit better at the pump.

    Dennis
  • khung1khung1 Member Posts: 8
    I'm in the market for a Civic LX 4door automatic and wonder what is the best price (before taxes and license) anyone has paid for a new '07 if not an '06? Thank you for your input. I want to get an '06 actually to take advantage of any clearance prices.
  • samasclsamascl Member Posts: 17
    I bought a honda civic coupe 06 ex, for 19.100usd + tax+fee
    I bought it in atlanta Ga, I know that you are looking for a 4 door, but i THOUGHT THAT MAYBE THIS REFERENCE CAN GIVE AN IDEA.

    I bought 2 weeks ago.

    I hope you get lucky finding a 06!!!!!

    if you have any question just ask ;)

    I love my car so far...the gas mileage it is great
  • pham0167pham0167 Member Posts: 48
    I'm working with a Honda financer. She ran my application and gave me a 9.09% interest for 60 months with a 420/month payment, total amount = 25200. She's also trying to include the extended warranty, bringing my monthly payment up to about 450/month total of 27,000. Is this a doable deal? How much is a standard extended warranty? Should I get the extended warranty? I'm 22 with no auto loan history, only a student loan and couple credit cards (longest credit line is 18months with couple late payments). I checked my credit score and it is around 700. I've applied at my local bank and E-loans, both turned me down. I also applied at CapitalOne and Citicard, they gave me an interest rate of 10.49%. My local Honda dealer does not accept CapitalOne or Citicard (bad experiences with not getting payments from them), I also told the financer my approved rate of 10.00. I'm assuming that she could do better than 9.09, but since I told her I'm getting 10.00 and I don't have any auto loan history, she's only going 1 point lower. What do you all think? Could I get a better deal if I negotiate more? I asked and she said most of the banks either wanted a co-signer or turned me down due to insignificant credit history.
  • rputtaguntarputtagunta Member Posts: 20
    As for extended warranty, I suggest you read this one first before you say yes to it.

    https://www.dcu.org/streetwise/auto/ext-warranty.html
  • pham0167pham0167 Member Posts: 48
    I figured that she was lying already, because I had told the salesperson that I've been looking at different finance options. The financing person ran a credit check and looked at all the credit requests I've gone through, showing that I've applied at CapitalOne and CitiCard. To their credit, they are beating CitiCard and CapitalOne's interest rate that I got approve for. I'm happy with the rate so far compared to what i've been quoted, just seeing if it's possible to get more out of the dealer :)

    As for being rushed, I had scheduled to come in Saturday to pick up the car. The finance person calls today Thursday morning to tell me the rate and ask if I can come in tonight to pick up my car because "it gets really busy Saturday". I also asked If I could get a better finance rate, she says there's still one more application pending that could respond by Saturday (convienently). I think i'll wait until Saturday for now, maybe she'll call back with a better rate if I don't rush it.
  • rputtaguntarputtagunta Member Posts: 20
    >>and I don't have any auto loan history

    Why does that matter? If so, they should have a FICO (credit score) score for each such case:

    Auto Loan
    House Loan

    Since they don't have that, FICO is the way she should go. Her decisions should be based on FICO score, not on what others are giving you. Definitely consider CREDIT UNIONS.
  • rputtaguntarputtagunta Member Posts: 20
    >>in tonight to pick up my car because "it gets really busy Saturday"

    They are rushing you. Keep your cool and don't rush. Meanwhile, Credit Unions.
  • riposteriposte Member Posts: 160
    Regarding new car warranties, unless you live in Florida, you can buy a Honda Care warranty at a significant discount from any number of dealers. If you live in Florida, the price is fixed, so it doesn't matter.

    You can add the "Sentinel Plan", which adds oil changes and roadside tire hazard protection.

    Honda Care
    Bottom line: shop around. Check on this, but I'm pretty sure you have until your original warranty expires to add the extended warranty, so you could defer that cost for awhile.
  • ttttvlttttvl Member Posts: 7
    Pham... let do the math.
    Without extended warranty = $25,200
    With extended warranty = $27,000
    Bottom line you paying $1,800 for the extended warranty. You can get Honda Car from online dealers as low as $876 on $0 deductible 8 yr 120k warranty for a Civic. http://hondawarrantyinfo.com/
  • loveledcloveledc Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2006 Civic Lx, Auto for $17,600 plus tax and title at Pat Peck Honda in Gulfport Ms. It took a couple of hours of negotiating to get it for that.
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    If you have checked your bank and credit union and they can't do better, then I would say this rate is as good as you can get without stronger credit or a co-signer.

    Don't go for their deal on the extended warranty. As was mentioned, you can get a genuine Honda Care plan for much less from an online Honda dealer at any time before you have 6k on the car. You can also print out the discount prices and make your dealer match them - if you want to finance this with the car. The 9% rate on the car is likely less than the rate on your credit cards, assuming you would not pay cash for the HC warranty.

    You may not can do anything NOW about your credit and may be stuck with the 9% rate, but you can lower your payments by negotiating a better price on the car and on your trade (if any). A lot of dealers love to play payments - they say $420 a month so you never see or know what you are paying for the car and how much or little they are making on the deal. $420 for 60 at 9.09% would be a borrowed amount of about $20,200. Depending on the model you are buying and your tax rate this could be a total rip off or a great deal.

    Break it down into parts:

    1) Get the best deal for the new car. Post what you are getting, any accessories, and what they price is for the car with destination and any DEALER fees (no tax, tags, etc)

    2) Get the best deal on the financing - sounds like you are stuck going with their captive financing since you have gotten bad rates or been turned down elsewhere. The dealer CAN mark up the rate for extra profit - they may have gotten 8.09% from the bank and jacked it up a point to make more money off of you. I really doubt it since the rate is better than your others. You could work a deal at other Honda dealership and see what they say the rate is - then you will know if you are getting the "buy rate" or one dealer or the other is jacking it up.

    3) Deal on your trade in, if any.

    Keep the 3 parts distinct otherwise you are a lot more likely to get ripped off.

    Don't rush, they make new cars at the plants every day and we are at the start of the month. Take your time and shop around. Post your numbers and folks here can help you decide if the parts of your deal are OK or not. Almost no place is there a "right of rescission" on a car sale, so once you agree to terms and sign you are stuck.

    Dennis
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    >>>My local Honda dealer does not accept CapitalOne or Citicard (bad experiences with not getting payments from them)

    This I don't believe. I think she is bs'ing you. Why do they care as long as they see the check for the amount?


    Actually, this may be true. CapitalOne (used to be Peoplefirst) started out only giving out their "blank checks" to folks with super prime credit. They could buy what they wanted no questions asked. Anyone without lesser credit would most likely be turned down or would be offered a non-blank check loan - you tell them what you want to buy and how much and they say yes or no. CapitalOne decided they could make extra money by approving a lot more folks with a lot higher rates. So they started sending out TWO kinds of checks - one the old "blank check" that was as good as gold. The other was a "bank draft" that had tons of stipulations on it. Basically, the dealer had to send in all the paperwork in advance and get the deal approved. If they failed to (and in some cases even if they did) C1 could not decide not to honor the draft - so the customer had the car and the dealer had no money. Some dealers used to the good as gold checks took the drafts without reading the fine print and got burnt.

    I just went through this with my daughter. Super credit netted her a super C1 rate, the dealer could not get close - but did not want to take the check (had been burned before). Once I explain this to them and C1 faxed over stuff and they read the fine print on the check - no problem.

    Clearly with pham's high rate her check would be one of those "drafts" and a lot of dealers indeed would not accept it.

    Dennis
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    For car loans and leases they often use an "auto enhanced" score - where more weight is put on paid off cars and timely car payments. With 0 car payment history this would produce a lower auto enhanced score than the normal FICO number.

    I co-signed for my daughter's first car loan, and we paid it off quite a bit early. So having a paid for car loan of a significant amount on her credit history makes for easy approval at the best rate now.

    Heck, with auto enhanced + otherwise great credit I can get approval for any number of car finance or lease deals. I have tons of paid of cars loans and leases on my credit history (including some really expensive cars) so I have no problems leasing 3 cars at one time at the top tier rates - and I would bet I could get approval for another lease or purchase if I wanted to :D

    Dennis
  • gasman1gasman1 Member Posts: 321
    I totally agree with you! Total Price Paid (should only include destination and any dealer fees). TTL should NOT be part of the "OTD" qoute. I've felt this way for sometime and should have commented on it earlier.
  • yennhi2yennhi2 Member Posts: 11
    Before making a deal with the dealer, do I need to tell them I will be either paying in cash or financing it? Does it makes a different in the price of the car? Which one has more dealing power? I hope somebody will help me with this. Thanks.
  • dwynnedwynne Member Posts: 4,018
    Assuming the dealer does not mark up your finance rate when you finance with them, then they may make $75 or so extra if you finance with them. In other words, it should not matter.

    What *I* always do and recommend:

    Get pre-approved at a nice rate (assuming good credit) from CaptialOne auto finance online or at your bank or credit union - whoever offers you the best rate on a simple interest loan with $0 set up fee. For folks with good credit, CapitalOne can often beat your bank (but maybe not the CU) and the dealer. Be sure to get pre-approved for enough to cover the car, destination, dealer fees, and all tags, taxes, title fees, etc.

    Then shop for the car based on price - get quotes from dealers in your area that include car+dest+dealer fees and compare them. Post what you find here and tell us your location. Other forum members may know of other area dealers you can try that may offer a better price.

    Once you decide, then close the deal. If the finance guy pushes you to finance with them tell them the rate you have on your pre-approval and tell them if they can beat that on a simple interest, no set up fee loan you will go for it.

    Don't buy any extras like extended warranties, undercoating, paint sealant, etc from the dealer and shut them down if they try to push any of that on you in the finance room. You can buy a genuine HondaCare warranty online later for a discount (near dealer cost) if you want to, and that other stuff you don't need or want.

    You may be able to get close ($400-500) to invoice if you can find a left over 2006 Civic, but for a 2007 you may end up fairly close to MSRP once you include the dealer fees. In most areas Civics sell as quick as they can unload and prep them giving the dealers no incentive to discount them much at all. You can get a similar Accord for the same or less money at most dealers!

    Dennis
  • coupefevercoupefever Member Posts: 1
    The lowest quote I have recieved for a leftover '06 EX Auto Coupe is 18,488, not including the DMV fees and the 139.00 mudguards on the car(which I don't want, but wouldn't have a choice). Unfortunately it is in my least favorite color, Galaxy Gray. For an '07 the best I have done so far is 19,358 no accessories, not including DMV fees. The next one of those at the dealership (mid November!) will be in Atomic Blue which I really like. This is in Oregon, BTW. I'm torn which way to go. I think I will most likely pay the extra 14 bucks and change a month to get a color I am really happy with.
  • nucivicownernucivicowner Member Posts: 1
    We just drove home a 2007 LX Civic sedan (automatic) for $17,255 + TTL (Midnight Blue). We bought the car at Hersons Honda in Rockville, MD. Took a bit of haggling, but we have been through much worse.
  • venki1venki1 Member Posts: 3
    I closed deal on 2007 civic sadan LX AT. Price i got is 17k+10% = 18.7k OTD. CA has 8.5% tax, they usually say add 10% to get OTD. I did not get this directly talking to sales people. I tried avoid them but i couldnt when i went to test drive. The best email quote i got is 17.4. I did not rush, finally i got a call yesterday saying he can match 17k.

    did not financing with dealer either. I have moderate credit score, my CU offered me 7.7~, not bad. Dealer quoted 9%. They tried to sell exptended warrenty for 1600 and another 900 that covers all services. I refused extended warrenty but is it worth 900 that covers services? not sure how many services will be covered.

    car has 94 miles on it... they said it had to come from dealer in San francisco. should i worry about it... i saw factory date on door, it shows 09/06.

    total price is 18.7k OTD, got the car at invoice price. Not bad i guess......
  • jlernerjlerner Member Posts: 5
    Hi all, just curious if I got taken or wether I made out all right.

    We purchased a used 2006 Civic EX auto with 14,000 miles today. Selling price was $18,900(US).

    The Civic came with the following addons front, side and rear body molding, window tint, exhaust tip, trunk liner, and dash protector (now in trunk b/c they look awful).

    In addition the dealership sold us a Toyota warranty package 7 yrs, 100k miles @ $1699 (just take it to any Toyota dealership... seems weird taking my Honda to a Toyota dealership for repairs but... meh.. lol)

    Living in AZ we took them up on a $300(US) engine interrupt protection system (pretty sure I got taken on this one) even though I know it has an interrupt buildt in... I figured any fighting chance I have at combating car theft here... as Arizona is basically a shopping mall for car theives who take the vehicles down to Mexico...

    Lastly we got gap coverage so in the event the car is totaled or (more likely) stolen it will pay off any difference between what our insurance company pays us and what we owe on the vehicle. Price tag: $300(US)

    Would it be smarter to cancel the gap coverage and extended warranty when we have our credit union buy the note. We financed through the dealership b/c it's easiest and there was no prepayment penalty or origination fees. We plan on having our credit union purchase the note in a few weeks at no additional cost to us.

    Anyway, just curious if I'm a terrible car shopper or a mediocre one. *laughs*

    Thanks for any replies! :)
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Let's assume you got the sedan w/o Navi. In a nutshell and just my opinion, you paid a bit too much on the purchase price, paid way too much for the warranty even if it is backed by Toyota which I've never heard of. I don't know what the EI protection system is. How does it work? And the gap insurance is OK if it gives you peace of mind. But for me, it's a ripoff.

    But as my grand daddy says, I'd rather pay too much for a Honda than get a great deal on a Dodge.

    Question for you. Why do you and so many others post your deal after the fact wondering if you got a good deal or not?

    Enjoy the Civic, they're nice.
  • jlernerjlerner Member Posts: 5
    re: posting after the fact

    Well two reasons really:

    1) I can cancel the warranty and get my money back, same the with gap when I have my credit union buy it, and the
    engine interrupt/alarm hasn't been installed yet.

    So I can drop all that cost.

    2) Someday I'll be buying again and like to knwo what I did wrong. :)

    Per some of the forum reccomendations, I applied on the net for some quotes on honda care packages, we'll see what they offer.

    As for the Toyota warranty, here is a link to it:

    link title

    Thank you for your reply. I think I paid a little much for the base EX... but I couldn't find and still cant' find anything comperable when I factor in all the extras:

    window tint, trunk liner, exhaust tip, front, side and rear ground effects, fog lamps, rear spoiler, etc. Those appear very expensive on the honda parts sites and many of them I could not install myself.

    Thanks again for the reply.

    P.S. What do you think a good price on the vehicle would have been? :confuse:
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    P.S. What do you think a good price on the vehicle would have been?

    Your vehicle had an MSRP of $19260 which includes destination and taking in to account your vehicle is one year old with $14K miles. Also, I would never buy a one year old Honda, simply because they don't depreciate much. I would always go new. But since you asked, I feel a decent price would be about $17K.
  • ericddsericdds Member Posts: 4
    What was the Out the door price on that civic?
  • yysetiadyyysetiady Member Posts: 2
    What is the best deal for Civic LX in New England area?
  • mfranklinmfranklin Member Posts: 13
    I'm picking up my Rallye Red 2007 EX Civic Coupe with Navi this week. Selling price $20,810 + ~$550 in dealer fees.. It's still below MSRP which for a 07 Coupe with Navi I think is a reasonable deal. I've been waiting since early August for it though. I wanted a 2007, and I wanted it in Rallye Red... so... I'm excited!! I did have to fight with the dealer to make him honor the price we agreed on. The dealer is in Miami, Florida.
  • jasonc3jasonc3 Member Posts: 15
    Hi all, i'm about to bite on a honda civic 2007 EX Manual w/out Navigation. My best price so far is 18,810. Add in the tax, tag, and dealer fee, and i'm gonna be out the door for around 20,000, what do you all think? I'm in Miami also!
  • mfranklinmfranklin Member Posts: 13
    Seems like OTD price would be higher if $18,810 was the base price.. Taxes alone in Miami (6%) would come to $1,128 bringing the price to $19,938 and also + a $50 Dade County tax... which bring it to 20K without Dealer Fee, Tags etc...
  • mfranklinmfranklin Member Posts: 13
    The price is above MSRP before Dealer Fees.. Seems expensive. But, yeah Florida they all insist on Dealer Fees. Try Sherwood Honda or Brickell Honda. I'm not buying from these guys but I've received good quotes from them in the past.
  • jasonc3jasonc3 Member Posts: 15
    That's a good point, i'm not sure exactly of the math, the salesperson i was talking with who gave me the 18,810, towards the end of the conversation, i asked him if he could get me out the door for $20,000 and he said he thinks he can do it, but it's not for sure, on paper i have the 18,810 so thats for sure. I am going to see if he can send me a detailed quote showing me going out the door for $20,000. Thanks!
  • pham0167pham0167 Member Posts: 48
    Finally purchased an 07 Civic EX MT sedan last week, driven it for about 400 miles. Here are some good and bad points I have with the purchase:

    It took about one month to locate the vehicle I wanted. I was turned down by banks for a finance so I had to get a 9.09% interest from the Honda Dealership. The finance person says that it's the lowest rate I could get, I replied by saying that a finance person at my bank preapproved me for 7.8%. She responded by saying that she's absolutely sure she can match that rate if I could fax over the approval once I am approved. I also wanted to apply for the new college graduate program, and they denied me by saying that they already sent in the application and was rejected. It was total BS, but by that time, I didn't care anymore, just wanted my car and get out. I didn't have the approval and ended with 9.09. I ended up getting the Civic EX for 19,000 plus a 900 trade-in with a value of 250. I was happy with the price I got for the trade-in. Afterward they lost my check deposit, I had pay 29.00 to my bank to cancel a check that they lost.

    As for the car, I've driven it for a week and absolutely love it. Drives very nice and so much better than my 95 Civic. I have found some negatives/positive so far that haven't been mentioned too much. I like a lot that I can open my car trunk with a remote and the moonroof has a tilt or open options. I don't like it that the radio doesn't display song text information when receive FM signals (all other new cars I know of does it). I also don't like the plastic feel of the gear shift, I makes a nice plastic against plastic noise when shifting. I do love the manual transmission, it switches gear smoother than any car I've driven. The gas mileage is great, so far it's about 37 mpg with 60/40 highway/city driving.

    Overall, I love the car, I don't recommend any of Honda dealerships in Minneapolis,MN area, they have horrible customer service.

    Hope some of that will be helpful to some people.
  • riposteriposte Member Posts: 160
    Make them give you $29 for the cancelled check fee.
  • pham0167pham0167 Member Posts: 48
    They asked for another 500 from my check card to replace the lost check. As for the lost check, they gave me the "option" of cancelling it or not...meaning we don't really care if that lost check is stolen or not as long as we get our money. "If you don't cancel it, then that's fine, but that's your fault if it's stolen out of your bank account"
  • flyboy7flyboy7 Member Posts: 4
    Sorry for the delay...been traveling. Here's the lease model. Ping me if you have any questions. I just realized, I can't attach an Excel file. Shoot me your email and I'll sent it to you.
  • shnnshnn Member Posts: 1
    As a first time car buyer I'm lookin to get the best deal on a Honda Civic LX AT in San Diego area. Any suggestions on dealers and pricing will be greatly appreciated. Any one have any recent experiences buying the same car? If so, please mention the name of the dealership and the price paid. So far, going through the forums 18.5K OTD in CA seems to be the best deal.
    Please help

    Thanks, appreciate it
  • keikoe55keikoe55 Member Posts: 24
    send email to 6 different honda in Houston TX all came back as MSRP only or may be a $20 to $50 off any one in Houston got better luck than I do?
  • keikoe55keikoe55 Member Posts: 24
    I don't know how you do it, may be I need to fly to MA and drive it back to Texas
  • jlernerjlerner Member Posts: 5
    Yeah, that's a little under what I was figureing, but here's how I did the math in my head.

    We'll use your number.

    Base vehicle cost for 06' EX AT: $17,000
    Wheel Locks: $54
    Front Under Spoiler: $349
    Rear Wing Spoiler: $499
    Side Spoiler: $589
    Chrome Exhaust Finisher: $119
    Fog Lights: $319
    Floor Matts: $99
    Trunk Tray: $99

    Thus when I totaled it up: $19,127

    This does not includ installation costs for the extras. Additionally window tinting was done so the cost would have been a bit above that too.

    I paid $18,900 for the car. After going through the numbers and taking into account your feedback it seems like a really good deal.

    Thanks again for all the input. I'm deffinatley going to cancel that warranty and the gap coverage. You were right and I can buy a geunine honda care package must less.

    Take care and thanks again for the responses!

    - jlerner
  • mfranklinmfranklin Member Posts: 13
    Aren't the floor matts and chrome exhaust tip standard on the EX?
  • ttttvlttttvl Member Posts: 7
    Floor matts standard on LX and EX. Exhaust tip NOT standard on DX, LX, and EX.
  • ttttvlttttvl Member Posts: 7
    I was able to help a local resident here in MA getting the same OTD price that I got. But come to find down that they now already had their vehical parked in their drive way. For me, I am still waiting my vehical till end of October as Dealer had original qouted. There was no trick or trade, just straight foward nego know how. Given what had happen, I will post the dealer name where in MA and their website after I get my car.
  • jet23jayjet23jay Member Posts: 1
    hey pham0167, is the $ 19000 for your ex is included taxes and everything? Just wondering>> i pay for my auto LX with spoiler and spard guard for 18000 without taxes, am i paying too much ? How much you guy paying for (wihtout tax or with please identify).

    thank you
Sign In or Register to comment.

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.