Toyota Sequoia Maintenance and Repair

harryone

I'm seriously considering buying a 2004 Sequoia, but, although it doesn't seem as common as in the 4Runner, some Sequoia owners have complained on this web site of really debilitating problems with sulfur smell inside Sequoias,and the NHTSA web site shows a few such complaints concerning 2002 and 2003 Sequoias.

Being able to breathe would seem to be an essential part of the driving experience, and if anyone who has had this problem in a Sequoia has successfully dealt with it - other then by selling the truck - I'd like to hear the solution.

Also it seems like no reports yet of sulfur smell in 2004 4Runners; has anyone bought a 2004 Sequoia and experienced the sulfur smell inside the truck?

haymakerhokie

Chadrapp, I thank you for your courage, and I wish you the best in not jinxing yourself.

Did they replace the angle sensor on their own hunch, or did the computer pull that code off, telling them to replace it? The reason I ask, is that my dealer is telling me that the error code keeps telling them its a speed sensor issue, but it only stores one code at a time.

themorg13

hey man, I have that smell in my 2003 sr5. I have taken into the dealer 2x. At first they said it was a coating that toyota puts on its engines to protect it from the salt water when they come from Japan. That didn't seem right. because most of the vehicles are built here in the states. The second time they said call the toyota people to set up a test drive. That's where I'm at right now. Waiting to test drive. There is a serious issue here. If you have allergies like I do It is almost impossible to drive this truck. Any other stories like this.

raddboy41

There is a TSB released for the Sequoia that addresses this issue. It states:
Some owners of Toyota vehicles may experience a sulfur–like or “rotten egg” odor from
the exhaust system. Sulfur is a natural component of crude oil from which gasoline is
refined and the amount of sulfur can be decreased through the refining process. The
amount of sulfur in fuel sold in California is regulated, however gasoline sold in other
states can have substantially higher sulfur content. Sulfur content also varies
considerably between gasoline brands and locations.
A sulfur odor emitted from the vehicle’s tailpipe does not necessarily indicate that there is
an issue with the engine’s running condition, but is most likely directly related to the fuel.
If the vehicle is exhibiting an excessive sulfur odor, the following checks should be
performed:
If the MIL light is ON, check for DTCs and repair as necessary.
If no trouble is found after performing the above check, recommend the customer try a
different source of fuel.
Replacement of oxygen sensors, air/fuel ratio sensors or catalytic converters will not
reduce the odor and will therefore not be considered warrantable.

raddboy41

Personally, I've smelled it if I'm driving down the road and have ONLY the back window down....sometimes. It only happens occasionally and seems to be due to the turbulence or swirl created by the shape of the vehicle. I simply don't consider it a problem. The tailpipe IS in the back of the vehicle, as is the rear window. If you roll down the window, you'll get some exhaust fumes.

slcamt

I have noticed the smell on my truck. I have found that keeping your foot out of it and using Costco or Sams gas seems to help a lot. This problem isn't isolated to the Sequoia. My inlaws just bought a 2004 Accord and it smells worse than my Sequoia.

Karen_S

I've read about this issue on other various make/model topics, so it isn't specific to the Sequoia. Perhaps this archived discussion will help:

Rotten Egg Exhaust Smell

themorg13

I'm sorry for the miss info. I was more concerned over an ammonia smell that seems to be in the cabin with the windows up or down. there is a person that has the same problem with her Sr5. She has posted it on the NHTSA web sight. This smell is making me sick. Have any one else experienced this?

harryone

As our host points out, the sulfur smell is not unique to Toyotas. Nevertheless,while I haven't checked all makes, 4Runner and Sequoia sulfur complaints to NHTSA are much more numerous than for any other vehicles I'm interested in.

One recent Town Hall post concerning Mazda said that Mazda replaced the catalytic converter, exhaust mufflers, and 02 sensors and apparantly solved the problem on the car involved there.

That contrasts sharply with the Toyota TSB quoted by raddboy41 which blames the gasoline and states:

"Replacement of oxygen sensors, air/fuel ratio sensors or catalytic converters will not
reduce the odor and will therefore not be considered warrantable."

Most complainants have said that changing gasoline doesn't help; one did say that it may alieviate the problem but it still doesn't seem to eliminate it.

I also now see the first rotten egg smell complaint concerning a 2004 4Runner, so I guess it's still occuring. I'm reluctant to take the chance on being be the first to record a sulfur smell complaint for a 2004 Sequoia, so I'm re-thinking my decision to buy one. A shame, because it seems like a really nice truck.

Every make of car has some incidents of problems, but what concerns me here is that the complaints on Sequoias and 4Runners typically describe the odor as "choking" or "unbearable" and complain that it makes the car virtually undrivable.

If Toyota says there is no problem, and won't do anything to address these complaints, you're left with a lemon law suit, which may or may not be provable, and certainly wasn't what I was looking to buy in the first place.

robertbick

I have an `04 Limited with about 700 miles on it. I noticed the smell twice so far. I know that both times I was a bit heavy on the accelerator when I smelled it. It was not that bad and went away quickly. It has not been a problem for me yet. There are too many things I like about the Sequoia to worry about the smell once in a while.

chadrapp

Actually, I suggested the steering angle sensor to the service rep because of what I had read on this excellent forum. He initially did not give it much merit,however, on my return the acknowledged it was the sensor and stated the code showed up. Of course as I mentioned before he tried to blame it on my aftermarket wiring. Still no problems and I'm still knocking on wood.

raddboy41

Believe me, it's not that bad....geez! You won't find anyone who is more critical of vehicles than myself and if this were a major...uh, no MINOR thing I would have my dealer look at it! It's just too bad you're missing out on the best full size SUV on the market. It's continously ranked above ALL competitors and even won over the new PathFinder Armada in Edmunds most recent comparison.

mad62

Has anyone experienced a load bang seems to come from the rear wheels? It may be that the wheel locks up because of a malfunction in the traction control system. Dealers say that they have reports of this happening but attribute the problem to improper use of 4x4. This problem has happened to me in both 4x4 and 4x2 modes. I don't think dealers want to admit there may be a problem.

sequoiasoon

had the same problem on mine. Common problem according to a different website. Lack of grease in the slipjoint on the driveshaft seems to cause it. Everybody that had the issue seems to have used about a 1/3 tube of grease in order to "fill" the void and provide lube to the sleeve. Most people recommend filling it then remove the grease fitting (with rag under it to catch excess) and have somebody bounce up on down the rear bumper. Replace fitting and make sure you grease at all oil changes (your maintenance guide refers to it as the propeller shaft). # dealer visits couldn't duplicate or correct the problem. 5 minutes under the truck and it was solved, no bang since I did it 2 months ago.

robertbick

Is there a site with specific instructions on lubricating the propeller shaft?

themorg13

are you people nuts? you buy a 40K plus vehicle and you don't care if the car omits an oder? Hey the real EPA people from the federal Govt. contacted me and laughed when I told them about this so called gas problem here in Calif. She said" we have the cleanest gas in the U.S." So she's not buyin that gas stuff. Also why isn't the smell coming from my wife's 99 dodge caravan? We use the same gas.And to top it off why didn't the toyota saleperson tell you about the smell. You could'nt sell this vehicle to anyone without telling them about the smell. Do you thing someone would buy it knowing that it puts out a smell? I don't think so!!!

raddboy41

If the odor was emitted constantly, you might have a point, but it doesn't. I've maybe smelled it twice in the 16K miles on my 2002 and it was when I was towing, rolled down the window to listen to the hitch and some smell entered the cabin. Other than that.....it's NEVER there! Good thing it doesn't happen to your wifes Caravan, that's one less thing to worry about while you're waiting for the transmission to fail. Yes, failing transmissions on Caravans are INCREDIBLY common if not epidemic.

plogic

Much to my chagrin I found out the reason for my loss of oil after speaking with the Toyota service dept.The Sequoia takes 6.8 qts and apparently my mechanic was only putting in 6 qts. (Sheesh)I hope no real damage has been done. Well maybe someone else will learn from this.

themorg13

hey man your right about the transmissions on the dodge, but that's mechanical and if more people would complain I'm sure something would get done.But that still doesn't make the smell of my new Sr 5 go away. The ? I have for you is "why should we have a vehicle that we paid X # of dollars for but have to keep our windows up when driving? The ammonia smell is something that you can't live with. It'll KILL YOU! Anyway the toyota rep. is coming to test drive the ladies car. and if they find something I suggest that we all get together and file a major complaint. There is strength in numbers!!!

sequoiasoon

The drive shaft has "normal" U joints with grease fittings that can be lubed by you, dealer, or independent shop including fast lube places. When you grease you want to just put enough in that you see the rubber seals move so you know it is full without blowing them out by packing too much in. The slip joint on the front of the shaft also has the same type fitting and seal. When filled up you will see the rubber seal expand slightly and possibly the driveshaft move indicating there is enough in there. The reason for removing the fitting and jumping up and down on the back is so on the first bump you don't put "excess pressure" on the seal causing it to blow out and fail prematurely. Just remember to put a rag under it to catch the excess, put the fitting back in after and possibly put grease fitting caps on to keep dirt and other junk off it.

There are other sites with more detail on many maintenance items. Edmunds (as well as most other sites/forums) frown against listing competing sites and Steve has already smacked me around in a nice way a couple times and I had to edit content accordingly. I like many sites and actually spent days reading the Sequoia forums here to see what problems everybody had before deciding on my Sequoia (as compared to the Tahoe along with the usual test drives etc.) which would have been second choice.

turnerf1

Puchased my Limited Sequoia two months ago and have put 1500 miles on it. Has been in the shop twice already for the engine cutting out or not starting to begin with. I've been stranded twice now, of course my dealer cannot replicate the problem once we get it there. We also have the sulfur smell and the VSC problems, serious buyers remorse has set in at this point. Has anybody else had this cutting out problem?

raddboy41

The only "no start" condition I've seen with the Sequoias had to do with some 2000-2002 models as described below.

Some 2000 – 2002 model year Tundra trucks (2UZ–FE) and 2001 – 2002 Sequoia vehicles may exhibit an engine “no start” condition. This may be caused by an inoperative fuel pump and/or blown EFI fuse. The Fuel Pump Assembly and Pick–up Sock have been improved to correct this condition.

haymakerhokie

As an update on my VSC issue, it appears that the dealer is now replacing all of the speed sensors and wiring to those sensors after finally being able to duplicate the problem. They have hooked up a portable machine that reads the codes and apparently all signs still point to those sensors causing the lights to come on. They sent all the readings to Toyota engineers with still no help. I'm seriously concerned about all this work within the first 2k miles on my truck, and i have to pull a 5k lb trailer up the east coast next week. I asked if they could replace the steering angle sensor but apparently all of the readings they are getting don't point to that as the issue. Why can't the dealer just try what worked for other people to correct this issue?

haymakerhokie

I found this on the nhtsa.com website. Anyone have access to find out what the details are? I don't want to have to pay the big bucks that the website asks for.

Technical Service Bulletins Summary
Make: TOYOTA
Model: SEQUOIA
Year: 2003
Service Bulletin Number: BR00203
Summary Description:
VSC COMMUNICATION BETWEEN SKID CONTROL COMPUTER AND ENGINE CONTROL MODULE (ECM) - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) C1203. *TT

marsimms

Just to update all of you, my roof STILL has not been fixed by Toyota (Since July). As the weather gets colder, the creaking gets worse. Dealership has told me that the "specialist" quit the day before he was supposed to look at my vehicle. Both Toyota and the dealership owner never bothered to respond to any of my letters or phone calls. Sorry folks, but for this price I could have bought the Lexus truck. I am DONE with Toyota.

pglags

Anyone have an recommendations for an '02 Limited 4WD? Getting ready to replace my stock Dunlops before the winter in the Mid-Atlantic. Looking for nice, smooth highway tires. Have been told Michelin LTX XC or Cross Terrain SUV's are the premium best, any suggestions?

7lenny7

I had work on my SQ based on that TSB. Basically the CHECK BRAKES lights would come and I'd no longer have VSC. I brought it in the day the TSB came out. First they replaced the VSC translate computer...no luck. next time in they replaced the power booster. Now it's fixed and after this last snowfall, I know the VSC is definitely working.

tharms

I have Michelin LTX's on my T-100... maybe not as quiet/smooth of a ride as some other choices, but they now have about 60K miles and still plenty of tread... but not sure if they are worth the $130+ a tire I spent. I have BF Goodrich Long Trail TA's on my Sequoia... definitely a smoother ride with plenty of winter traction, but showing some tread wear with only ~45K miles... partly may be due to the additional weight of the Sequoia vs. the T-100... but for ~$50 less per tire, definitely a choice worth considering. My T-100 came new with Goodyear Wrangler RTS's (also std on many Ford Expeditions)... These tires were basically shot at 40K miles and had I had all kinds of problems keeping them balanced. Will never touch them again.

doug007

I've noticed a few posts regarding a ticking noise. With the onset of winter, I've been experiencing a sound that, according to my local mechanic, is a sticking lifter. He recommends changing the oil with a different brand. The industry standard for this type of noise is 5-15 seconds, with mine subsiding after 5-10 minutes. I'm thinking a lifter replacement but am interested in other opinions.

gkatz1

Your mechanic has no clue. The noise is probably piston slap. The 4.7L is loud until it warms up, then quiets down. The injestors will also make a ticking sound. Although aggravating, neither problem affects performance or reliability. An oil change will not have any affect on this.

chadrapp

Any recommendations to prevent the endless amounts of brake dust that collect on my rims? I wash weekly but after a few days it seems to be back. Someone suggested some type of wax or something once but I can't find that post. Any help will be appreciated.

dpohl

I have been reading as much in here as possible regarding these topics. I took my wifes car in last week because the emergency brake light was on for the past 2 months intermitantly and there was a grinding noise from acceleration to about 15 miles per hour. The dealer said that I needed new brakes front and rear. I just had the front done in June and she has only put 6,000 miles on it since then. The dealer said that the front is what needs it the most and that the rotors need to be resurfaced. I told them that they were just done and they said that it can be normal to have to do the brakes on this vehicle at 6,000 miles. I know that is ridiculous but I do not know what else I can do at this point. I told them that they needed to find out the problem because that was not normal and they said they would have them inspected by a specialist technician or something, they then called me again today and said that it is just normal brake wear. Any suggestions, I am just furious at this point.
Thanks

haymakerhokie

This is not normal wear and tear for any vehicle, even one as heavy as the SQ. Often brake pads have a lifetime warranty if you replace them yourselves, so you should be able to get a lot more than 6k miles out of them. Although I haven't had my sequoia long enough to be sure on this heavy vehicle. I do know that if your ABS is malfunctioning, then it could create hotspots on your rotors, causing them to warp much quicker and burn through pads. I'm having some ABS issues with my truck now, so i'll let you know if the brakes wear quicker than normal.

tharms

From what I've read on other sites, Sequoia's tend to go through a set of pads about every 30-35K miles, depending on driving conditions (> city driving = shorter life). My '01 Sequoia just hit 60K miles and still on the original set... but they are nearing the point where they need to be replaced.

Based on past experience, I highly (repeat HIGHLY) recommend always using OEM Toyota brake pads. Yes, you can buy other brands that will offer a lifetime warranty and save you a few bucks... but usually these pads are made of a harder material that 1) provides less braking power and 2) is more abrasive to the rotors... and I'd rather buy new pads more often then replace much more expensive rotors.

tharms

I've done a lot of research on this topic over the last month (via internet as well as talking with several Toyota mechanics) as my '01 Sequoia has the same noise issue.

What I've learned is that the noise comes from several sources including both the lifters and pistons. During startup, particularly on cold days, the main noise is "piston slap". Supposedly this is due to the fact that Toyota used different metal alloys to produce the Head and Block and Pistons and because of this they had to build in different tolerances to account for the different expansion coefficients of the various types of alloys. In the case of the Sequoia/Tundra, the pistons are made out of a hardened aluminum alloy that expands/contracts more than the cast iron block, thus when the engine is cold the pistons have more play and "slap" until they warm up and expand.

As others have reported, this apparently is not a serious problem from a mechanical aspect as engines with this "issue" continue to run today with >200K miles on them and don't consume oil... However, it sure is tough trying to convince your neighbors that you didn't drop a diesel engine in it when you first start it up on cold mornings and you can hear it clattering up and down the block. If I would have test drove/bought my Sequoia in the winter (vs. summer) and the engine clatters the way it does today, I doubt I would have bought it.

tharms

I've done a lot of research on this topic over the last month (via internet as well as talking with several Toyota mechanics) as my '01 Sequoia has the same noise issue.

What I've learned is that the noise comes from several sources including both the lifters and pistons. During startup, particularly on cold days, the main noise is "piston slap". Supposedly this is due to the fact that Toyota used different metal alloys to produce the Head and Block and Pistons and because of this they had to build in different tolerances to account for the different expansion coefficients of the various types of alloys. In the case of the Sequoia/Tundra, the pistons are made out of a hardened aluminum alloy that expands/contracts more than the cast iron block, thus when the engine is cold the pistons have more play and "slap" until they warm up and expand.

As others have reported, this apparently is not a serious problem from a mechanical aspect as engines with this "issue" continue to run today with >200K miles on them and don't consume oil... However, it sure is tough trying to convince your neighbors that you didn't drop a diesel engine in it when you first start it up on cold mornings and you can hear it clattering up and down the block. If I would have test drove/bought my Sequoia in the winter (vs. summer) and the engine clatters the way it does today, I doubt I would have bought it.

gkatz1

You'd think that Toyota could build a V8 without the slap. Do Lexus V8's do this? Anyway, if you let it warm up for a few minutes, its fine.

raddboy41

You guys know about the TSB for the brakes right? Bigger rotors, pads, etc. BR05-02 is FREE if your vehicle is still under the 3 yr. / 36K mile warranty.

petro33

The new pads for the front, after the TSB is done, cost $117 when it comes time to replace them!!

curious54

I live in Southern California and am planning to go on a trip (round trip approx. 4000 miles) and so just wanted to know when should be the best time to rest my car from driving? (Have a 2003 Seq) (ex. should i rest my car after 4 hours of nonstop drving or ?)

stailor

I too have had the sulfur smell in my 04 sequoia. It is very pronounced after I back the car up into the garage. I smell it everyday. The dealer told me that it would go away after 1000 miles. I'm at 500 now.

tharms

I asked the very same question regarding why the Lexus engines don't have this problem when they supposedly have the exact same engine as the Sequoia. What I was told is that they are not exactly the same... as Toyota switched to a cast iron block on the Tundra's and Sequoia's for added durability when towing and hauling, but continued to use the aluminum alloy pistons... thus bringing on the metal expansion coefficient issues, the piston slap and associated diesel engine clatter...

tharms

Come on now... your driving a Toyota aren't you?? You will wear out before it does...

Stop when you are:
1) Tired
2) Need to go the restroom
3) You are hungry
4) You need gas (which in my Sequoia is about every 400 miles or 5-6 hrs of driving)...

Otherwise, keep the pedal to the metal.

gkatz1

The iron block makes sense, but in reality there are other engines out there with the same combination without the piston slap. Although I have heard of the GM and Fords doing it too. In the GM's it also came with increased oil consumption, a trait that has not been associated with the Toyota. It seems like short piston skirts were the culprits in the GM engines, I wonder if the Toyota has the same design? But, the bottom line is that the 4.7 has been out for four years, if it were a problem I would hope that Toyota would have fixed it by now. It's still annoying though.

doug007

Thanks for all of the posts about the piston slap, which I thought was lifter noise. It does make sense, although "tharms" comment about dropping in a diesel is right on! My mechanic did switch out the oil to a higher grade of Valvoline at no charge, but the noise is still there. Guess I'll just get used to it chattering for a few minutes in the morning this winter.

sequoiasoon

There was also an issue with some cracked exhaust manifolds, makes it's own ticking type noise until the manifolds heat up (5 minutes?). You or your mechanic can check it if you let sit out overnight and do it first thing.

tharms

I would never recommend moving up to a higher viscosity (ie grade) oil. Typically this means moving from a 5W-30 to a 10W-30 (or 10W-40) oil... Yes, you may notice a little less noise on start-up with a higher viscosity, but the lower the first number (viscosity at startup), the less time it takes to get the oil up to the cylinders/valves and cut down on engine wear... which is when most engine wear occurs in engines. This is why it is also important to use OEM toyota oil filters or an after market filter that contains a check valve that prevents all the oil from draining back down into the pan when you shut the engine off. Stick with the 5W-30... or switch to a good quality 0W-30 synthetic.

doug007

I'm still using 5W-30 and considered switching to synthetics. Has anyone used an additive (Slick 50 etc.)on their Sequoia? I hear many different opinions, including that they may actually harm an engine. Is their a warranty issue for using same? Any advantages?

stevekozusko

When I purchased my '99 Diesel Suburban I switched to Mobil synthetic after the first 500 miles. I was told I should not switch on my older vehicle (92 Explorer) or it would leak.. more than it already does.. 8-)
I heard bad things about Slick 50 but I never used it so I have no first hand knowledge.

stevekozusko

My '99 Suburban had this problem from the get go.. It was in several times because of the brakes. Finally Chevy issued a service buletin for larger roter, heavier pad and they also changed the proportioning valve to share more stopping power with the rear brakes. Everyone knows the front brakes stop the vehicle but whatever they did it worked. I don't recall noticing any stopping loss but it's a K2500 series 8600+lbs truck so it never stopped on a dime..