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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • I have a 2004 Audi 1.9tdi 130bhp with the multi tronic gearbox.
    This has done 14000 miles now but has been very smoky since new.
    I have had it back 4 times to 2 garages and they all say - "the machine says its fine - diesels do smoke".
    I had a 115bhp manual before this and we ran 2 Passats for 50,000 miles with none of these problems.
    It is also low on economy returning under 40mpg - when my previous did 50mpg+.
    I suspect it is the gearbox loadin the engine too much and the engine re-tuned for torque at lower revs.
    Any ideas please as its getting embaressing with the smoke on a £28k car.
    Many thanks
    Darren Jade
  • No most Audis seem fine.
    I did see 1 that was like mine but could not get its registration.
    I am thinking about throwing a challenge down to my dealer to pick any diesel in the car park and we will compare them under load.
    I know which will smoke the heaviest.
    If I get time early next week I may do this.
    Surely there is someone technical out there can help??
    Darren
  • jayb2005jayb2005 Posts: 2
    There isn't a new driver. But, I'll take it back to Audi and get them to look at it. Someone suggested getting the gearbox oil chnaged too. Is it worth getting it done while it's in? While I'm thinking about it, just before I bought the car it had a dead battery. The dealer changed it but would this cause any problems (the dealer wasn't an Audi one)
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    Is your parking brake fully off? I think that is the indicator that the parking brake is set from the description.
  • jsimmonsjsimmons Posts: 2
    I've checked that. It's all the way down, but the sensor could be not recognizing it. Is that the Indicator light for the Parking Brake?
  • jboomjboom Posts: 5
    Hello, I just bought a used 98 A4 quattro sedan, and before I bought it, I heard nothing but good about this car. Now after, a few people have been telling me things that make me a little weary. This car has 85k miles on it, did I make a bad investment and should I be worried?
  • audiluvraudiluvr Posts: 2
    :cry: Hi, I hope someone out there can help. My 98 A4 Avant wagon is running beautifully but about 3 weeks ago the oil pressure indicator along with the ABS and Brake lights came on (all at the same time), took it to local Audi dealership for service--had an oil service, brake check, and etc. Everything check out fine, the tech couldn't figure out what the problem was--called Audi tech support they said I needed a new instrument cluster. Instrument cluster replaced--same problem! Now when all three lights come on the RPM read out goes straight to null (like the car is not even running) all of this happens at once.
    All of this lasts for about twenty minutes if I don't stop at a red light and if I do the oil pressure light goes off but comes back on once I start driving again.
    Oh, and now my motorized driver's seat won't move either!!!

    Any ideas so I can pass them onto my dealership. Thanks
  • erixerix Posts: 3
    You guys are geniuses, thank you both a ton! It was the brake switch and after fiddling with it for a bit it was fine.. for a while... until the switch went on the blink again :)
    How easy is it to replace the switch yourself? I'm wondering if i'm any better off making this a DIY affair vs getting bent over at the local Audi stealer. I'm used to working on Hondas inside and out (I know, I know, fairly primitive compared to the Audi tech) so I'm not completely useless. Has anyone here attempted this?
  • erixerix Posts: 3
    At the risk of sounding like a fool and being far too vague, it sounds like you could have one hell of a short or a loose connector. Maybe a continuity test between the instrument cluster harness and the module(s) that control the individual systems indicated as failing would be in order.
    Do you mean that after twenty minutes of driving the problem starts or after twenty minutes it returns to normal?
  • simple2simple2 Posts: 16
    erix.

    I am car technician in the past as well. But have not done it for a while now.
    However it fells great to get my hands in the engine bay of my AUDI.
    In regards to the switch, my were replaced by AUDI under warranty. I remember looking for it and it was a fairly easy to replace. If you can get the replacement switch and have a set of tools handy, I will be surprised if it will take you more than 15-20 minutes.

    AUDI A4 1.8T Quattro
  • audiluvraudiluvr Posts: 2
    Thanks for responding...
    After twenty minutes it returns to normal.
    And there's nothing as too vague or sounding like a fool...at this point I'll take all of the help that I can give my Audi tech :)
  • 99quattro99quattro Posts: 4
    I had the same problem. Its your low pad indicator on your front pads. Other cars have metal indicators on the pad themelves so you can hear it, the Audi has wires that stick out of them and you plug in. I replace them myself last night, took me less than an hour. Pep Boys had them in stock for $53.00. The dealer wanted $250.00 installed. You should change them soon before the rotors get damaged.
  • villalobosvillalobos Posts: 27
    It might be the oil pan at the bottom of the engine, in which case you should get it fixed.
  • kaymarkaymar Posts: 3
    I recently ( a week ago) bought a 2005 A4 1.8T Cabriolet - gorgeous, lovely car, but it either came delivered with or quickly developed a blown fuse - although I was initially proud of myself for correctly diagnosing why my cell phone wouldn't charge and the cigarette lighter wouldn't pop up, I'm now wondering if this might be a sign of larger electrical issues. Have others had an issue with blown fuses in this car?
  • Recently my ABS/Brake light has been coming on and off and my check engine light has started to come on. No one can get the machine to read my ABS light and the check engine light always says the gas cap isnt screwed on properly (which they are). Sometimes my car starts sort of "weak" and seems like it is not getting enough power (almost acts like there is a weak battery but there is not). The last thing is I was driving down the road and my sun roof just opened 1/4 the way and would not shut more than 3/4. I had to lock my car with the key in the door and shut it that way. Any suggestions or ideas what the problem could be? My car runs and drives great but there seems to be some electrical issues....
  • groveaudigroveaudi Posts: 1
    My 97 A4 1.8Lturbo had the low oil pressure light on, the car is now at the dealer, and I'm being told of sludge building up problems. My engine did not seize.
    Can I ask how your situation ended up, and what suggestions you have for me to get Audi to pay for this?
    I will try to get oil change records, but want to know how hard I can press.
    Thanks
  • marleybarrmarleybarr Posts: 334
    Whether or not the oil leak was caused by the accident doesn't matter. What matters is what the dealership THINKS caused the oil leak. You are driving a very expensive car that is extemely expensive to repair. If the scrapes lead the dealer to believe the "mishap" caused the oil leak, then the repair will be "out of pocket" and will probably run into the thousands of dollars to repair. This is the issue that you are facing.
  • demons93demons93 Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 A-4 1.8T (automatic tranny) w/107K miles. Great car, still gets 30 miles a gallon on the Hgwy. Anyway while driving yesterday morning, I changed lanes in preparation for turning into a parking lot. As soon as I took my foot off the gas and stepped on the brake, the engine died. I threw it into Neutral and restarted immediately. My wife had the same issue 2 days prior to me.

    Anyone else have this problem? As great a car as it is, I'd rather dump it than start spending major $$$. Is it worth going to the dealership and getting a diagnostic, or is this a common enough problem that there is some knowledge on this board...

    Thanks, in advance. J.V.
  • 99quattro99quattro Posts: 4
    Go to any auto parts store and have them check the battery for free. My truck did the same thing.
  • daleodaleo Posts: 1
    My 1999 Audi A4 2.8L was in the shop for the third time because smoke kept coming out of the left front tire well. We had spent $2000 on two different repairs but the problem was still there. While the dealer was test driving it, it caught on fire and was totaled. Has anyone else had a problem similar to this?
  • The timing belt advisory isn't exactly a "recall". What they said was that there is a revised maintenance schedule which calls for inspection at 40K and 80K and replacement at 105K. If at inspection they determine that the belt should be replaced then that is at owner expense. I suspect that all "inspections" will result in a recommendation to replace. But if there has been a timing belt failure in the past, or if there is a failure after an inspection, then Audi America will supposedly pay for the engine repair. The class action suit really only affects people who had a belt failure and engine damage prior (roughly) to the June, 2005 announcement.
  • bjbrooksbjbrooks Posts: 11
    What does greenish-yellow fluid under the car mean? This is the latest of ENDLESS problems I have had with this car. I can't wait to sell it! In 3 1/2 years w/ under 55k miles, the horn has stopped working twice; the glove box would not open; the radio would not turn OFF; the windshield wipers went out ($400). Now the check engine indicator is on and there is this fluid under the car. I will NEVER buy another Audi! :mad:
  • craigp1craigp1 Posts: 17
    I have a 2003 A4 and also experienced this problem. It's no fun trying to refuel when it is 10 degrees and windy. Anyway, after trying many different methods, I have figured out how to solve this problem.

    If the pump shuts off as you begin fueling, completely remove the nozzle and let the trapped air escape (about 15 secs for my car). Once you no longer hear the escaping air, you can fuel up normally. Do not push the little flap open as this will not let all the air escape.
  • Just wanted to see if this was the same problem I'm having. 2003 Audi A-4 3.0 Quattro...if I come of the brake pedal quickly and go to accelerate, engine cuts to 1/2 power, parking brake light and stabalizer light come on. Ausi has replaced the coils, brake pedal switch and problem persists. Happened 2x's this morning before I limped into dealership.
  • marleybarrmarleybarr Posts: 334
    Sounds like transmission fluid leaking.
  • mtf2mtf2 Posts: 2
    I just bought a new audi with the above spec's. I was driving up a windy mountain road, using the vehicle to it's full capacity. After reaching my destination I popped the hood to look at the engine. I found the exhaust manifold to be bright red, that molten metal color. I called the dealer they informed me that was normal for the turbo engines. I am asking for a second opinion.

    I also noticed that the outside temperature reading is sometimes wrong. When it is 70F outside the gauge reads 18F. I am wondering if the problems are connected?
    Can anyone shed some light.
    Thanks in advance.
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    The engine does generate some extreme heat when driven hard so a glow like that would be expected. Turbos do run very hot. This is a primary reason to use good Audi-approved synthetic oil and be religious about those oil change intervals.

    The outside display is just a sensor around the grill of the car so I really doubt that is related. You should check it to be sure it's not set to centigrade somehow and then alert the dealer on your next service visit.

    JR
  • For those having accelerator problems when the brake warning light and stabilizer light illuminates, check the connections on the electrical control box next to the engine. The cover on my Audi A-4 was bad and allowed water/moisture to get into the box, corroding the connections. Dealership just called to tell me this and is replacing same under warranty. They previously replaced the brake pedal switch but found it not to be the problem this time. :) ">
  • mtf2mtf2 Posts: 2
    So the manifold will not break down over time?
    I'm sure it's not set to celsius, but I'll have it checked next service visit
    Thanks
  • jknutsonjknutson Posts: 3
    It's the wheel bearing. You should replace both rears, even if just the one goes bad. Expect to pay about $250-$350 a wheel.
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