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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair



  • Has anyone else found that when the outside temperature gets into the eighties or higher their car stalls all too often when slowing down for lights, a corner or whatever. It did cause a fright to begin with but I now expect it. The only cure I have found is to be very quick on the clutch. Any further advice would be well received - or is my car just unique?
  • jima4jima4 Posts: 1
    We have a 2003 A4 Cabriolet and have been having the same problem for over a year. Since both keys fail, the lastest suggestion from the factory is to replace the inductive coil. The car has been at the dealer over a week now while they try to locate the parts.
  • I've recently moved to the Chattanooga, TN area and I want to know if there is a good audi mechanic in the area, or if anyone knows how I can find one. I'm having problems with my steering, some clicking when i turn it right, I have also had the alignment done twice by the dealer and it is still off. thank you so much for anyone who knows of someone who can help me
  • drewarddreward Posts: 13
    If you have one of the newer Audis with the SD card based music system for playing MP3 files you may have noticed that some songs play and some don't. This is a result of some incompatabilites between standard MP3 file formats and the Audi. I have written a program which fixes the files so that they all play you can download the program from Audi file cleanup program enjoy!
  • rich21rich21 Posts: 1
    I want to check the battery water level and possibly replace the battery in my 2000, A4, 2.8Q. How do I move or remove the black plastic cowling covering the battery, that is preventing complete access to the battery?
  • I have a misfire problem on #2 cylinder I've switched coils, plugs, checked compression and there's power at #2 coil plug I cant afford to bring it to the dealer so any help would be appreciated. I think it might be the ECU ?
  • bdoonbdoon Posts: 4
    Fuel pump?
  • bdoonbdoon Posts: 4
    this happened to ours at 58k miles...$ out for ignition coil failure.
  • civic4civic4 Posts: 33
    You can fall in love with the car and continue to pour money into these vehicles only to find that the repairs mount successively upon each other or you can realize that the choice to stay with an Audi beyond its statistical lifespan is not a wise one, better to buy a new one, (obviously an option for those who can really afford these cars), or realize this nameplate is just for those who can afford them. I made the mistake of falling in love with my Audi 90, A4 and A6 4.2, which was recently sold BEFORE the fateful 50K appeared on the odometer. I finally learned that no matter how nicely a car drives, and how attractive it may be, it is only as good as its reliability....and any decision to extend the lifespan of a vehicle that costs so much to repair and breaks again, shortly after that repair, cannot be a vehicle one should ever consider to put in their garage bay. Unless, you are a multi millionaire who can afford to turn your car in every 3 years for a new one. Good luck to all who decide to pour dollar after dollar into these very attractive and seductive cars, but remember, I warned you,....... I was, I own a civic.
  • bokshibokshi Posts: 1
    I think i have the same problem with my 1997 Audi a4 1.9 TDI some times the power it cuts in half it goes until 4000 rpm i think its a electrionical problem when i turn off the engine and start again it works just fine if you have the same problem and you solvet it please let me know.
  • Does anyone have any additional information on the A4 1.8T class action lawsuit regarding timing belt failure?

    I have a 2001 A4 and my timing belt failed while driving earlier this summer. I checked my manual, and similar to older models, it states that the timing belt does not need maintenance or attention until 105,000 miles. My timing belt failed WELL before 105,000 miles. Because of this, I am wondering if additional years have been added to the class action lawsuit (97- 99)? I called A of A last month and received NO help.

    Any help or information on this would be greatly appreciated as I am still roughly 6k in the hole!!!!

  • Wow, does that ever suck? While I don't have my manual handy ('02 A4 Avant), I thought that the timing belt was supposed to be a 60k mile change item. I guess that for those planning to keep their Audis beyond the warranty, an extended coverage plan is called for.
  • jds3jds3 Posts: 6
    I have a 99 A4 1.8TQ owned from new - with 66.5k miles. The Brakes and ABS lights recently came on in the dash. I took it into the dealer and told $2,800 to replace a faulty "ABS control unit". I declined and took the car to an independent shop who tried to connect their "computer" to try to diagnose and determine if they could fix - said they could not and referred me back to the dealer. They thought the ABS was no longer functional, but that the brakes would continue to operate "safely". I am based in the northern suburbs of Chicago. My questions - anyone know if there any independent auto shops in the Chicagoland area that could perform this repair and at what type of price? Thanks.
  • The "push" buttons that allow me to switch the location of the air circulation for the climate control system (windshield, panel or floor) get stuck in the on position. When they are stuck none of the other buttons in the system work (fan speed, temperature, auto, off, etc.). The dealer told me it is likely that I spilled some coffee (cup holder is right above the troubled buttons) and the spilled, now very dry, liquid is the culprit. They said they sprayed some cleaner on the buttons but the problem still occurs. I can un-jam the buttons by sticking my pocket knife into the side of the button and popping it forward. Does anyone know if I can remove the button fronts to clean off the excess sticky stuff? Or, does anyone have any other ideas for cleaning?
  • tcasboytcasboy Posts: 214
    I had to replace the battery in my 2001 A4 a few months ago because the original battery died. (It died on a Sunday and I had to be at work early Mon morning, so I couldn't let the dealer take care of it, even though after the fact they said that they would have covered it under the Audi Advantage maintenance program, which I was afraid of. So I spent an entire day and about 75 bucks replacing the battery.)

    Anyway, it took me about an hour and a half just to get to the battery, as there are several trim pieces that interlock with each other above the battery that you have to carefully remove. I also had to remove the windshield wiper arm to get the last trim piece off. You need to unscrew a few fasteners and then very carefully pull the trim pieces apart from each other and the gasket like seal they have at the firewall. I took it very slow so I wouldn't break one of the parts and eventually I was able to get all the pieces out that I needed to in order to put my hands on the battery.

    After I finally got the battery out I went to Autozone because I called them and they said they carried a replacement battery. Fortunately I took the old battery with me because the battery they said would work would NOT have fit in the compartment that the battery sits in. I ended up driving to numerous auto parts stores until I found a battery at an O'Reillys that was close enough to fit in the compartment. It is actually a little bit smaller than the original but could be clamped down adequately by the original clamp. It was a higher amp battery than the original and so far has worked fine and not bounced loose.

    It took me another hour and a half or so to install the new battery and replace all the stupid dash parts that cover it up. Definitely NOT the place to put a NON Maintenance-Free battery if you ask me. I had never thought to check the water level of the battery because I just couldn't imagine them placing one in such an inaccessable space that would require service. I couldn't believe that they still made non maintenance free batteries anymore. Anyway, that was all my fault since I should have known that the battery wasn't a maint-free battery.

    I would recommend that you just go very slow and have an "assistant" available to help you because there are a few parts that require more than two hands to get to and the battery is pretty heavy. Patience and a slow pace should keep you from breaking any of those expensive parts that are covering the access to your battery.

    Audi certainly didn't design this vehicle to be service easily by the backyard mechanic that is for sure. If your car is still under the warranty I would let the dealer do this work, it was a fairly involved process for what should be a fairly simple task.

    Good luck.
  • audia4audia4 Posts: 1
    you have to show them that you have had regularly scheduled maintenance on the car or they won't eat the charges. this means oil change every 10K miles tops.
  • I took my A4 1.8T 2001 with 37000 miles into service because I hear a grinding noise when shifting from 1st to 2nd. Service Dealer stated that the sycnchronizers that mesh together when shifting need to be replaced. Dealer said it wasn't that bad, but at some pt it will need to be replaced at cost of $3600. They stated the cause is usually high mileage & wear-n-tear. At 37000 miles, this is ridiculous, what are your thoughts?

    Secondly, they told me that the air bag light was always on because of high resistance electrical failure and the cost to replace the bag is $750.

    Frankly, I don't trust the dealership - A 4 yr old car with 37000 milies - These expenses should be covered by the manufacturer.

    Your thoughts?
  • I recently purchased a certfied used 2002 A4 1.8T sedan. On a recent humid evening, I couldnt clear the foggy windshield despite using the front window defroster and following the instructions in the Audi car manual.

    Any thoughts on whether this is a systemic problem for this model ? Any suggestions on how to reduce this problem?
  • cisrlcisrl Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 A4 and found out that I need a new flex pipe, I haven't had an estimate on it yet. It is certified as well and not covered.
  • cisrlcisrl Posts: 2
    I have an 2001 A4 just found out I need a new flex pipe as well.
  • pvphanpvphan Posts: 1
    I also have this problem. 99 A4 1.8TQ as well w/ 145k miles. The problem is just the Bosch ABS module, braking still works.

    My mechanic (don't trust the dealer's) said the replacement unit is approx. $900 and another $200-300 for labor to fix it.

    I looked online and there's a few places that will rebuild the Bosch ABS unit that is used.

    Here's the information I found online, checkout

    I'm not endorsing or recommending them in anyways. Hope this helps.
    I don't know them, haven't used them yet, but will most likely and follow up here with my experience.
  • I completely understand. Have you received any help or advice yet? On 8/24/05 my timing belt broke. My damages are going to run $6,200. If you have any information please advise.

    Have you had any other problems with your Audi A4 1.8T 2001? I have on another occasion had the bottom portion of my engine rebuilt because of oil on the spark plugs. My Audi also eats light bulbs like there's no tomorrow. Two interior door handles broke and two broken motors for the electric windows.

    Thanks for any feedback.

    Drowning in debt also..... :lemon:
  • Jimbones,

    You could not pay me a million dollars to own another audi of any model I have a 2001 A4 1.8T with two payments left and 83,000mi. I have had quite a number of problems with this $35,000 car and wish for nobody else to go thru what I have. I am now looking at paying $6,200 for a new engine because of civil action lawsuit for timing belt and I was never notified of this by the dealer. :lemon:

  • To anybody willing to help,

    On 8/24/05 timing belt went out on my Audi A4 2001 1.8T. Only has 83,00 miles and has been in for every 10,000 mile check up and then some. I have two payments left till I own the P.O.S. (piece of [non-permissible content removed]). Now I have to pay $6,200 for a rebuilt engine due to the timing belt breaking. Four weeks ago service person recommended that I have the timing belt replaced at my next visit (I still had 7,000 miles to go). My question being now is there anybody out there that knows the lawyer that won the civil action case against Audi and perhaps a number where this person may be reached. I would like to know if I have a chance to recoupe what I have lost, or the terms and agreements made while settleing the class action lawsuit. :lemon:

    Many thanks to anyone who can help.
  • I had an orange warning light up on the dash of my 2000/2001 1.8 A4 and nowhere in the handbook is it mentioned. Fortunately my neighbour is a mechanic and told me it is supposed to illustrate the shape of an engine and it is the engine management system reporting a problem somewhere. Unlike on Volvos where it is possible for anyone to interrogate their system and identify faults from a chart, it requires a laptop with Audi software to be connected to the A4 by an expensive service engineer to read the report and then the same action again to reset the light after any repair work is done.
    Apparently the 'coolant temperature sensor' costing £27 Sterling had a fault but was now showing as working OK and the light reset. It may have just been a loose plug on the switch but nevertheless I am having the sensor changed because at £75 for the fault diagnosis I cannot afford for it to keep happening.
    Much more of this contrived robbery and the A4 will go!
  • tcasboytcasboy Posts: 214
    I had this problem about a year or so ago and actually got some help from other folks at this forum. If you are using the AC and the auto mode, it will put cool air out all over the place and the windshield will keep fogging up. The advice I got and now use is to use only the middle set of vents (selected on the right side of the control panel) to blow the cold air only through the dash vents towards you. If you don't select a set of vents the air goes out all three areas (dash, floor and windshield) and that cool air blowing on the windshield is what is causing the fogging. I drive with the temp at LO 99% of the time and when it is hot and humid out (particularly at night) the only way to keep my windshield clear is to keep the air coming out only from the dash vents. I was surprised by this, but it works. Good luck.
  • Hi everybody, I know this has been a question being asked many times. But after searched and looked for the related msgs still can't find a certain answer.

    I got a 2005+ Audi A4 manual. I really wanna keep it in good condition. And from the previous Msgs someone said that did an interim change with Audi approved Mobile01 oil (change by using oil extractor ourselfves) will get a good result. Does anyone do that and have a good result without violating the service agreement?

    and how to avoid the sludge problem? is it related to the gas you pump or any driving habit??

    Thank you very much :)
  • I do change my '04 at the mid-point of the Audi recommended 10,000 mile intervals. I use that oil extractor and leave the dealer installed filter. I have see this recommended by others and I have done it twice so far. I use Mobil 1 0W-40 (European spec oil) as it meets the Audi required specifications.

    The process is very simple and clean and I get out about 3.5 quarts of the oil using this method.

  • That's pretty much what I've been doing with my A4s... oil change with synthetic every 5k or 6 months, whichever comes first. However I haven't used an oil extractor (better pick one up, eh?).

    You know, what people seem to not note is that while Audi says to change the oil every 10k, they mention that the interval should be more frequent if the car is driven short distances, in freezing weather, or dusty environments. Imagine that :P .

    Byron ('06 A4Q manual, sports, ect)
  • Hi..Thank you for both of the reply above. :)

    so do I have to buy the European spec oil of Mobile01? what's the difference if it is not European spec??

    And now I'm just in my break in period.. and the first oil change will be 5000mile. Do I have to change oil myself before 5000mile??(like at 2000 OR 3000 miles)

    besides, you said that you change 3.5quarts yourself. but isn't that the total oil changed will be like around 6.5 quarts? so you just change part of it? is there any reasons?

    sorry for my stupid question.. Thanks again for the answer :)
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