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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair



  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    If you have no record of a timing belt change it's very likely that it did fail. I assume you have the 1.8T engine as well? If so, you could have severe engine issues. The problem could be anywhere from bent valves to holes in the pistons as that engine is an 'interference engine'. A break to the timing belt at speed causes significant damage in most cases.

    I hope it's not that bad for your sake as the repairs for this kind of damage can be expensive.

    Good luck.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Too much!

    I called a very good shop in the SF Bay Area and they quoted about $2,000.


    timing belt, water pump, pulley bearings, hydraulic tensioner, thermostat, radiator (BAER, not a cheapo radiator), coolant, all labor.

    Unless you have issues other than mentioned above, your quote seems way too high. You have to compare what's on their estimate with what I've mentioned.
  • thanks for your response... i have only called one place but thought it was kind of high! haven't had much free time to do more research but pretty sure it will be worth my time in checking out other options...

  • hauschild1hauschild1 Posts: 8

    I bought my car at 33k and have had way, way, way more maintenance issues with it than I have had with all the cars and trucks I've owned in my life, all Fords. The good news is that they were all covered under warranty. The bad news is my warranty expires in about two weeks. Here is what I remember of all the issues I've had addressed:
    -faulty brake light switch - caused battery to die (a real doozy to diagnose)
    -replaced rear seat latch
    -replaced coolvant valve
    -replaced windshield wiper motor
    -fixed issue with the engine sounding like a diesel
    -replaced glove box - it broke off the right side - the hinge is plastic, surprisingly

    These are most of them and were not show-stoppers, meaning I was never stranded.

    I am wondering about EXTENDED WARRANTIES. Anybody care to chime in on whether it is worth the price? The cost at the dealership is anywhere from 4-6 k, which is a lot IMO. I'm wondering if one is better off using that money on another pre-owned that has another 1.5-2 years of warranty remaining???
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34

    If your warranty expires in two weeks, find any additional concerns you may have with the car, take the car to the dealer with a list of issues IN WRITING and have them corrected. Also, if the vehicle has ANY remaining maintenance servicing to be performed under "Free Servicing" have them documented and completed. As most of your items appear to be small nuisance items, it appears you have a pretty stable vehicle. As far as an extended warranty goes, your best bet is to keep your money, sell the car in a year or so and then invest in a later model that may serve your needs.

  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34

    If your timing belt failed it may be the result of a faulty part as the service guide for the 1.8T requires change out at 100,000 miles. There has been an issue with these failing before recommended replacement time and the NHTSA has a data base and log on complaits and corrective actions against AudiUSA. Check the NHTSA website for your specific year and model. I might give you some leverage with the dealers.
  • samaudisamaudi Posts: 10
    I bought my car new and have a couple of the same problems. I've had to replace the rear seat latch countless times as there is a rattle in the back seat that my dealership can't seem to fix. They keep connecting it to that latch... Also, I've had to replace the glove box for the same exact problem, and I've also had the engine grinding noise. Hopefully all will be corrected on the 18th, and will post back then.

    Also, I say the extended warranty is a waste of money, however the quotes you got seem very high. I got a couple that ranged from 3-5k.
  • eddie650eddie650 Posts: 26
    I have the 2005+ Audi A4 and I noted recently that new literature on my model says to replace the timing belt at 75,000 miles.
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,602
    If your budget permits, trade it in on a newer used model. There may even be a new one the dealer wants to move. What year is your car? Maynot make sense if you owe way more than it's worth. Could go back to ford. The fusion sel awd is sweet and cheap.
  • audia42007audia42007 Posts: 2
    When I turn my brake light goes on it start beeping like for 10 seconds then it turns off. I think that it happens when there is an inclination like a ramp such as a highway exit.
    Car is an Audio A4 year 2007.
  • greg96greg96 Posts: 1
    Hi there-

    I have a 1999 A4 qtro and the airbag light is on. i took it to a non-dealer repair guy and he told me the problem was in the seatbelt/sensor area. he quoted $575 to fix it. admittedly, i was dealing with a crying baby when we spoke, so i didnt get all the details. can anyone shed light on this repair quote....does it sound reasonable to replace what he is talking about? many thanks...
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    Check your fluid level in the brake reservoir. It certainly sounds like the low brake fluid warning; and it's being caused when the car is anything but level and the fluid shifts.
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34
    I also have a 2002 A4 1.8 Quattro. I used to live in the great white north (now in the deep south) and I experienced the same problems when it was cold. Gas mileage was bad and experienced same conditions as you note. I checked with several shops and owners and most have a similar experience. It appears that since the car is an "all-wheel" drive, it has two driveshafts, two differentials and all the associated CV joints and lubricants that MUST warm up through driving. The initial feeling of "the emeergency brake being on" will go away after the units heat up. I just went through a winter here in the south (if you can call it that, more like late spring) and noted that even on the coldest days (30-40 degrees) did not really notice the "sluggishness". One thing that you may want to look at is the fluid in the gearbox. Over a period of time (don't know if you had it changed in the 6 years you have the car), the fluid can thicken. Perhaps you can get it changed (not a real cost killer) and see if it makes a difference.
  • amandamand Posts: 5
    I have a 02 3.0 A4 and had same issue. mine has a small plastic piece in the tank that is the sensor. Their is also a small removable screen. It is possible to push the screen a bit too much so that it pushes the sensor down. Just pulling the screen out, wiggling the sensor and placing the screen back gently back resolved my issue. All the best.
  • nashikulnashikul Posts: 3

    For my 2001 A4 2.8T v6 apparently some engine oil is leaking from the cam tension chain gasket. Since this is a v6 engine, the repair shop is claiming that both sides of the engine needs to be dismantled. (Pardon me if I am not making sense, I am repeating what the mechanic told me). He is quoting 10 hours of labor and parts for a total of approx $1200. We have already replaced the timing belt, hoses etc. less than 6k miles ago. I called the dealer and they quoted me approx $1645. So is $1200 reasonable?

    Thanks in advance,
  • macchinamacchina Posts: 2
    I have heard horror stories and read bad reviews on Audi reliability for the previous years.

    When researching predicted reliability, Consumer Reports cannot predict because it's new. US News gives it a 5 out of 10 rating for reliability and other sites I've researched saw pretty much the same thing.

    I love the car but would hate to spend time and again at the dealership or have to pay for the repais on my own down the line - been down that road with my VW Jetta.

    But I do love the A4!!

    Any thoughts?
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    Being a V6 does mean that there are two cylinder banks to deal with so that part of the quote seems accurate. Also, the 'spread' of $445 between dealer prices and independent shop prices makes me think that the $1,200 is about right. I can't say from experience but I do know that working on these V6's can be difficult as they are packed in the bay pretty tight.
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34
    If your former car was a Jetta, get ready for a similar experience from Audi, as they are both owned by the same parrent company, Volkswagen and they share a lot of the same parts, engineering and dealer mentality.

    One thing to keep in mind with ANY dealership, is that you must make all concerns related to service in writing and ensure that anything needing to be serviced, is serviced. I have found that most Audi dealerships will say that servicing has been performed however it may not be.

    Story is... be prepared to check that all work is done. If all servicing is performed when needed and the car is properly maintained, it should have the same reliability as other brands.
  • audia42007audia42007 Posts: 2
    Good Audi Car Repair Shop in the DC area - Dealer or Independent .

    Anybody knows a good Audi Car Repair Shop in the Washington DC area ( DC, VA or MD).

    Please feel free to chime in.

    It could be dealer or independent.
  • tgai69tgai69 Posts: 7
    I have a B5(97-00) pretty easy if you are used to grease and grime i followed directions from here..
    and here..
    ...also that price isnt reasonable for a "gasket" replacement. Audi's come apart easily if you have the right tools e.g. allens. High shop prices are another way of saying they havent worked on your car make before ;)
    good luck!
  • gib0050gib0050 Posts: 3
    I just purchased a 1998 A4, rack and pinion is leaking and needs to be replaced. I have called a few audi parts departments and am told it could be one of two racks. Short of having someone pull it out, how can I determine which rack and pinion I need. Can't afford to have it done at a dealership.
    1998 A4 2.8 Quattro 30v V6.
    How often does the oil need to be changed?

  • gib0050gib0050 Posts: 3
    Do I need to use premium gas in the 1998 A4 2.8 V4?

  • audiphile1audiphile1 Posts: 2
    Hi All: I had my A4 idling in the garage last week and was shocked to see a fine spray of fuel shooting out from the underside of the chassis. Visualizing both my beloved car AND my garage exploding in a ball of flame, I shut it off, jacked it up and inspected, finding that the the rubber portion of the fuel line, just aft of the fuel filter, had deteriorated and was leaking. The rubber portion leads to a metal fitting which is connected to what looks like a plastic section that runs up to the topside of the filter. Fine, I said, I'll just pull the filter, and replace it and the bad fuel line unit at the same time. My manual says "Loosen the lower banjo bolt, then LOOSEN THE CLAMP BOLT, pull the filter down and then loosen the upper banjo bolt". After loosening the lower banjo, I shined my light up into the filter area and was shocked to see that the "clamp bolt" appears to be almost impossibly inaccessible. It has a cylindrical head, which looks like a hex bolt, but since it
    faces horizontally, I can't even verify that. There is NO space to get a hex wrench in there. My conclusion is that either there is a special tool, a special technique, or this is :mad: one of the worst examples of German engineering I have ever seen. Can anyone tell me how to loosen that clamp bolt and get the fuel filter dislodged from its cozy little space? Thanks! audiphile1 in St. Paul.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I think there is a rear axle cover you have to remove.
  • audiphile1audiphile1 Posts: 2
    Thanks, Mr. S...I didn't see any type of cover. The filter itself is readily accessible, well ahead of the axle. The problem is that the "clamp bolt", which is higher up in the cavity where the filter is located, is very tough to reach. Looks like an "Allen"/hex-type bolt, but there is very little space in which to insert an Allen wrench. It almost looks like the filter was installed before the fuel tank was put in at the time the car was manufactured. I'm puzzled as to how to get that dang bolt loosened. Anyone have a suggestion? Thanks...audiphile1
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Weird. The book says it only takes .4 of one hour to swap it out. Maybe they did make a mistake in installation.

    Are you on a lift or just crawling underneath?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    This is crazy. The dealer is SUPPOSED to know this, because they have the files that identify the gear by VIN #. How are we supposed to know if THEY don't?

    Seems to be a difference in the manufacturer of the rack.One is ZF the other is KOYO.

    Maybe you can read something off the rack. Also one parts catalog mentioned that the ZF has a "one piece aluminum casting" if that helps.

  • tgai69tgai69 Posts: 7
    To get to the fuel filter/line;there is a circular access "hole" somewhere under the back seat on the passenger side.Just pull out all the fancy carpeting to expose it. Yeah Audis no have 80% "recycelable parts which degenerates over time. :mad:
  • tgai69tgai69 Posts: 7
    A4 has a "bigillion" airbags...culprit could be as simple as loose contacts (under the seat) to bad sensors(in the bumper).Audi dealers(ripoffs) have the right VGA tools to decode the fault....and hopefully free estimates! ;)
  • rfolinorfolino Posts: 1
    Just bought a 1997 Audi A4 1.8 Turbo. Sometimes the engine won't start. The starter is new and it is good. The battery is good and the cables are connected properly.

    Sometimes when it doesn't start, I will get out of the car and reach in through the window to turn the key and it will start.

    Is there some kind of sensor in the seat?

    The mechanic thought it might something between the battery and the starter? He checked the battery (even put larger cables) and he took the starter out and checked it.

  • gib0050gib0050 Posts: 3
    Thanks much. What about the gas? Should I put premium in? With the synthetic oil, how often does it need to be changed?

    Thanks again...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Whatever it says on the gas cap is the grade you should use. Synthetic oil should be changed according to an oil analysis, but I'd say if you wanted to play it super SUPER safe, without getting the oil analyzed, 5,000 to 7500 mile intervals.
  • audi4me1audi4me1 Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 1 month old 2009 Audi A4 2.0T Premium Plus Frontrack with 1300 miles on it. Today while driving back from work, the car stopped at a 'Stop' sign and in 'D' mode, wouldn't move anymore. I had other cars right behind me so without panicking I shifted down to 'S' mode but it remained the same. I then shifted down to 'M' mode but it still won't move at all. Then I shifted back to 'D' and gave it a lot of gas, all of a sudden the car started moving but extremely slowly enough for me to pull into a small street. I pulled over, stopped the car and re-started it. No problems in starting back however when I put the car in 'D' the same issue, it would barely move. Then after a couple of more tries the car came back to life. I kept my fingers crossed and drove a couple of miles home. I am heading out of country on Friday and I want to have the dealer look at it after I get back. Does anyone have any suggestions or have experienced anything similar? Much appreciated.
  • eddie650eddie650 Posts: 26
    The dealer will need to perform a diagnostic test to see what happened.
    I have a 2005+ A4 with the 1.8 engine and started having slippage between the D and S modes while driving. The dealer needed to replace a computer module related to the transmission - what they called the brains of the transmission. It was done under warranty and I was told this item is under a CA emissions warranty for up to 7 years from when I bought it.
  • davida2davida2 Posts: 16
    I have a 99 A4 quattro V6 sports package. Lately, it wants to stall when I come to a stop and sometimes it does turn off. Can anyone help as to what might be the cuase.


  • baz9209baz9209 Posts: 2
    hi i own a 1998 A4 2.8 v6 quattro on 176.000 miles its still in really good nick but the clutch and gearbox are on the way out. i am concidering haveing a engine rebuild raceing clutch and replacement box but dont really know any realistic prices. to save cost i was thinking of trying to fit a low mileage 6 speed box from a golf v6 4motion but are unsure whether it would be straigh forward the grand plan is to get a PES supercharger convertion in the future hence the rebuild, raceing clutch and 6 speed box can enyone advise on this plan and cost or recomend a garage that specilizes in this kind of thing cheers baz
  • baz9209baz9209 Posts: 2
    hi mate the only help i can be is i own a 1998 2.8 v6 quattro witch has been fitted with 18'' wheels from a new rs4 the tires i use are kumo size 18'' 225/40 and i have had no probs witch the handeling whatsoever it is really tight cornering at speed
  • gator1111gator1111 Posts: 1
    I need help. My transmission needs replacement. I have am the original owner and have maintained the car, more so than anyone else I know. The car was wonderful for 5 1/2 years and the last six months have been hell. Since then, all four coils and plugs have been replaced, the coils, one by one going bad. I've had the rack and pinion replaced, the motor mount replaced and now the transmission. I now have read everything about the CVT problems with the early 2000 models and am scared to death. It is culpable to know that Audi has known of these problems for years and done nothing. I was also told at the dealer that they have been fighting the coil problems for four years. I do not know what kind of recourse I have nor do I understand what the dealer might be doing to try to "help" me. My contact is calling me back tomorrow after his district manager gets back to him on an email he sent him explaining my situation and seeing if they can help. What does that mean exactly? I called cust. svc this morning and they too indicated that there may be some kind of "help" but that I would have to take the car into the dealer as a first step. I have one more car payment on the car and absolutely love the car and everything up until the last six months. I appreciate your advice in advance.
  • bbjames74bbjames74 Posts: 1
    Help! My son had to have the fuel pump replaced in his Audi A4. When he picked it up, as he drove down the street he realized something was wrong and returned to the mechanic. He left the intake exhaust off disconnected. The mechanic reconnected the hose. The next day when gas was added to the car, the check engine light came on. This car has gone back to the shop 5 times and the mechanic cannot figure out why the check engine light is coming on. The code is something about the Turbo.

    Can you help? Did the mechanic do something when he left the intake exhaust off?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Not sure what you're talking about here. The terms you are using don't really identify the part very well. Do you have the # of the code that was read? That would help us a lot.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Hi tgai69: Thanks for the reply. In a state of desperation, I already had removed the back seat, thinking maybe there was an access port (or maybe I could even cut my own access in the sheet metal with a hole saw). I couldn't find any sort of cover. Eventually, I customized the proper size hex wrench (ground the short end down to about 3/8 inch) and was able to get it up inside the fuel filter cavity. After installing the new one, and rather than spend another hour trying to tighten the hex bolt, I just installed a large hose clamp around the filter and bracket, which seems to be a much easier solution. Someone else stated that the flat rate on this job is .4 hours, which seems reasonable. Took me more like of the most frutrating Audi repairs I have ever done! Thanks again. audiphile1
  • jonp3jonp3 Posts: 3
    hi i wondered if someone could assist me. When i turn the key in my audi A4 SE the car will start ticking over and then just cut out. Now i turn key off and on again and same thing happens. If i carry on doing this it finally starts sometimes 1st time sometimes 10th time. Once car starts it runs beautifully. Please help me.
    Jon Parsons :cry:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Sounds like a faulty fuel pressure regulator that is bleeding off pressure in the fuel rail---so, without fuel pressure in the rail, the fuel pump must pump away to renew enough fuel pressure to keep the car going after every shut down/leak down.
  • jonp3jonp3 Posts: 3
    Sorry to hassel you sir but thanks alot for the reply. Is this a job for a mechanic or can i sort this out myself? Will this be expensive?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Well you can really test the regulator without a proper gauge and a workshop manual, so probably you should bring it in, yeah. Maybe a $200 job if my wild-[non-permissible content removed] guess is correct.

    The gauge allows you to run the engine, test the pressure (about 4 bar) and then see how much bleeds off in 10 minutes. It should drop to 2.5 bar. If it goes lower, I'd suspect the regulator is faulty.
  • Hi everyone - my Audi is 5 years old. I put the convertable top down the other day and when I put it back up I noticed that the rear window was no long attached...leaving a space all the way around (between the fabric and the window). The Audi dealership just informed me that the space can not be glued or repaired and that I will need to purchase a whole new top. Cost? Over $4,000.00! Have you heard of this happening before? As much as I love my Audi, I think it's pretty shoddy craftsmanship if the top needs to be replaced after only 5 years... Would love to hear your suggestions, feedback.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    You might get a second opinion about all this from a first class upholstery shop in your area. The book says only 6 hours labor so even at $150 an hour that's only $900. Since when does cloth cost $3100 bucks?

    Here's one for $ add that to $900 and that's sounds about right


    I'm not recommending these people, just using them as an example.

    Average age of a convertible top is about 10 years, so yeah, it's premature, but convertible tops lead a hard life, so.....
  • jonp3jonp3 Posts: 3
    fantastic thanks alot
  • gtonelligtonelli Posts: 1
    I just got my last "free" maintenance done the other day and they replaced the front brake pads and fixed the worn rotors: "front brake disc remove+reinstall" and "wheel remove+reinstall".
    2 days later (today) my car ('05 A4 2.0T) is making a very strange noise when slowing down, especially on an incline and then accelerating after the green light regardless of the grade. Problem is that this noise comes and goes. I have 34,000 miles on it and I'm scheduled to have it checked out Monday. I'm not a mechanic by a long shot. Does anyone know what this may be? Many thanks in advance!!
  • deepstardeepstar Posts: 15
    Ok well It's Been A few thousand Miles later Im up to about 18,000 Miles Been Driving on the "Recomended" Gas for a long time now, and I still have oily slimy soot in both exhaust Tips. Can't keep em clean. This can't be normal. Even though the Dealer says this is normal. It's B.S. I don't trust em! This is a NEW Car! This NEVER happend to my three previous new cars which were Acura: Integra, RSX, and RSX TypeS.

    Also is now burning a full quart of oil just 4,000 miles after my last oil change.
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