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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair



  • bgs3bgs3 Posts: 1
    I am new to this website and am seeking information on transmission problems on A4s. How do I go about getting info on here pertinent to this? We need our 3rd transmission in 4 1/2 years, it has never worked smoothly (and we even had it repaired the week after we purchased the car brand new). Of course, Audi America and our dealer do not wish to pay for this now that it is off warranty. Based upon what I'm reading on other sites on the internet, this appears to be a chronic issue. Why hasn't there ever been a recall? Or an attempted class action lawsuit?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Recalls are generally only for drastically safety -related issues.
  • wilnerwilner californiaPosts: 34
    i already post my problem about the central locking system or the power locks. i did follow the message from rowlandi and still won't work. in the manual, i just checked all the fuses and they're all working and there's no more instructions how to fix a failure central locking system or the power locks. i already replaced the battery of the remote. this is a 1999 audi a4 quattro 6v 2.8l.
  • My 2008 A4 v6 has been sluggish in the morning and recently the "check engine light" came on. The car has just under 15k miles and received standard maintenance service at 5k and 10k miles. Dealership tells me it's misfiring on 2 points and that it appears to be carbon build up. Dealership was asked by Audi to take pictures--pictures!--and forward to them.

    We only put high octane (91 or 93) tier one gas (Shell, Chevron, Texaco) in the car. Any thoughts from anyone? Why would Audi need pictures?
  • First, are you certain that your dealer has performed the "standard maintenance" services? Audi dealers are know for "pencil whipping" the services to cut cost and labor while back billing Audi North America. Classic example is "Audi Air Filter Services" at 20k and 40k. Most Audi filter boxes are extremely difficult to access and as such the tech relys on the computer to tell if the flow through is negligible. I have seen several Audi come through with clogged air filter prescreens and elements that have not been serviced since the factory. Bottom line is poor air flow (even with computerized fuel injection) can cause loss of power and excessive carbon build up as a result of incomplete combustion. Have you seen the spark plugs? They would give you an almost instant indication of the combustion chamber condition. As for photos, I don't know why dealer would need photos, other than to cover their backside for warranty reimbursement from Audi North America, who I am sure would have a hard time believing a 15k miles auto could be carboned up. Any respect it will most likely involve extensive overhaul to ensure that the carbon is ALL CLEANED OUT.
  • I have a 98 Audi a4 quattro v6 no turbo. I had a misfire and it triggered the check engine (mil) light. How can I reset it without going to the dealer? Also, how do I reset the service warning indicator?

  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    If you fixed the source of the mis-fire then the light will reset itself after a few run cycles. Typically around 3 trips.

    On the other one sorry can't help with that.
  • I drive a toyota camry and mazda cx-7 and they both take all of 3 minutes to change out the air filter. How's that for so-called German engineering?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    That's good but what really matters is how well it filters, not how easy it is to remove, right? :P

    I'm just teasing you--I had a Brand X car that had 7 nuts to remove to get the air filter out, and three of those nuts were different sizes!!
  • FTv2FTv2 Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 A4 / 3.2 Quattro with the exact same symptom, and the "check engine" came on while driving the car home from a 7500mi routine maintenance at a Bay Area dealership (Rector Auto). This was back in late July, and the car has been in and out of two dealerships since then. In fact, just took it back in yesterday to fix oil leaks resulting from the last dealership's repairs (they changed the cylinder heads, injectors, valve lifters, etc.). I still have the sluggish performance, and Audi USA "Customer Advocacy" has been playing hard ball and not willing to replace this car nor reimburse me for the lease payments. Please note my thread on another forum. There are several other folks who have experienced the same issue on their 2008 A4 or A6 with the 3.2l engine.

    I have an arbitration thru Better Business Bureau with Audi. It'd be good if we all could build a case and try to get our cars replaced.
  • Well, the dealer was told to replace the fuel injectors and clean out the carbon buildup. They didn't consider the carbon buildup to be much but did as Audi USA suggested. We've now had the car back three weeks and have put about 500 miles on it (city miles). The car now starts and runs fine. But I'll report back if anything changes.
  • I put regular gas on it for 9months. Which i didn't think it would do harm but what do you think?
  • I have an issue that came up with my 02 Audi A4 1.8T
    Similar to another poster here on this forum. I started having problems with my window on my driver's side not going all the way up.
    Then the other day my door ajar indicator came on for no reason along with the dome lights and audible warning signal. The audible sound would last for a couple minutes and then go off but this door ajar problem seems to happen when I apply the brake, or sometimes turn on or off the radio or heater.
    Also I can not lock my drivers side door by remote
    Now until I get some money together I can get away with having the dome light out and using the key to lock my door but the audible warning is just too much. Also now when I put the head light on the audible won't just beep but it will stay on at a steady
    sound until it shuts its self off and then maybe come back on later. Right now for the time being I need to disengage the audible system but I cannot find the fuse
    that may be connected to it. Nor do I know if there is a fuse for this. Since I could not find it on the fuse arrangement diagram in the owner's manual. If any one might know of this feel free to give a reply
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Your car's engine management system should compensate for the lower octane. All you'd notice was a drop in performance.
  • dma2dma2 Posts: 1
    I have a 2006, Audi 4 2.0. My prior car was an A4, 2003, 3.0 and that car had a continual problem with the heating and electrical system. The heating vents would randomly blow cold and/or hot air ... one vent blowing hot air while the other blew cold air. Sometimes they would both blow cold, sometimes one would be warm and the other hot, with distinct temperature differences to the touch, and all the while the temperatures would be set the same on both sides. This problem would occur at random times. This went on for months without any repair success.

    Now, my 2006 Audi is doing the same thing after two weeks of driving. I am dreading the thought of going through the same thing again.

    When I took the 2003 to the dealer, I was always told it tested fine. After 5 repair attempts and being told "it was fine" I drove 28 miles to the dealer when it began blowing cold air so that they could see the problem first hand. They seemed surprised and still were unable to fix it. While this was going on, my brake light fuse kept blowing out and I had to have the light (fuse) replaced 4 times. I thought maybe the problems were related and were electrical? Someone familiar with Audi mechanicals said the problem sounded like the jay flap could be sticking and that he's heard a lot about this problem with Audis???? What is a jay flap?

    Has anyone had this problem with their car? I just got back from a short trip with the 2006 Audi and I got a message that the brake light is out. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am reliving Audi hell.

  • haagdhaagd Posts: 20
    My 2007 A4 has been burning / consuming oil since it was new. The oil light has gone on 4 times. The PVC Valve has been repaired twice. I am now going through a second oil consumption study.

    Is anyone aware of a consumer that has been successful using state lemon law rules to get out from owning an A4 with this quality problem. I am shocked that Audi and my dealership (in MN) is not standing behind this vehicle and making it right or replacing it.

    Disappointed in Audi.
  • My 2005+ Audi A4 doesn't burn oil, but I was wondering if one can just use any major brand of synthetic oil that's advertised as for European cars. I had not known that some types were for European cars, but I noticed this wording on a few brands at the local Pep Boys. I know that Audi says the oil needs to meet a particular VW spec., but didn't see this mentioned on any oil stocked there.
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    Oils should meet a VW spec in the 504 or something like that range. It has changed over the years but if you look at a label on Mobil 1 0W-40 you'll see it. That oil is the most generally available that does meet the spec and I have been using it for years in my 2004 A4 1.8T. WalMart usually has it but AutoZone, Pep Boys etc... also typically stock it.
  • Thanks. With my A4 coming off warranty service soon I figure I'll get my oil changes outside the Audi dealership. The local Goodyear dealer said they don't do the synthetic oil changes, but they will do it for me if I supply them with the synthetic oil.
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    If your going that route be sure to either provide the large oil filter specified for that car or ensure they use the right one. There are smaller filters that will fit but that engine needs the large filter for capacity and cooling. Without the proper oil filter and the synthetic oil it a pretty sure bet that sludge will form in your engine.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    PLEASE---buy your oil filters from AUDI
  • Have a 2008 A4, problem w/ ice accumulating on the wiper blades when driving in snowy weather. Heavy snow today in Wisconsin - had to stop twice, driving less than 5 miles, to clear ice from the blades. Running the front window defrost on high and cleaned out the area adjacent to the hood --- with continued problems.

    When ice accumulates on the blades, snow and water accumulate on the window - causing visibility problems. Called my InternationalAuto Audi service department - no other customers with similar problems and no suggestions.

    Any ideas / thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
  • mercopsmercops Posts: 34

    Live in Minn. and had similar experience with 2002, A4. Found that too much heat causes snow to melt, ice up and stick to the blades. Tried running with minimum window defrost and most times snow does not stick to window, it just blows off as it doesn't get a chance melt and then freeze, unless its the wet heavy stuff which does build up at times. Then I usually stop, Prestone spray window de-icer from the can and seems to do the trick. Also, are you using a good name brand windshield washer fluid or the cheap stuff. Good brands will also help and the cheaper ones are usually no help in the problem as they tend to make it worse. Does your model have the windshield washer fluid heater? If it does, see if the fluid is spraying out warm or cold. Other than that not much else to offer.

  • kmi1kmi1 Posts: 1
    I am having some problems with my 2004 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro and was wondering if someone could give me some feedback.

    I was out of town for a week and upon my return, found my car would not start. I did have someone at home drive it a couple of times while I was gone but they said they had no troubles. I tried to restart my car the next day since it was very cold the previous night but again, it was hesitant to start. I tapped the gas a couple of times while turning the ignition and it finally started; I haven't had any problems starting it since.

    My check engine light is on. Someone suggested it could be clogged fuel injectors, so I got a bottle of Techron and put it in the tank. I drove about a quarter tank of gas and the car ran fine, however, my oil needs changed and since the check engine light is on, I'm very hesitant to drive an entire tank of gas.

    I turned the car on again this evening for awhile and noticed a strong scent of gasoline, I believe coming from the front of the car. I've had continuous problems with the dealership near me and don't want to take my car in and be charged hundreds of dollars for nothing, so I was wondering if someone has had similar problems and what remedied the situation.
  • adam32adam32 Posts: 2
    I have an audi a4 turebo with 19,000 miles and have had an issue with it burning oil also, but when asked about it, they said because of the turbo it will burn some oil. Anyway, I have gotten regular maintenance done on it and added oil if it is low. But 2 weeks ago I had the maintenance light come on that it is time for service. I took my car to audi spoke with the service department and they said it is to earlier for oil change/maintenance and they reset the maintenace light (this also happened at 10,000 miles). 3 days ago I started the car and the "no oil pressure indicator" came on and a tapping in the engine occurred. I shut it off, checked the oil level (within the accepted levels) and I am waiting for audi to pick the car up today. ( I flew out for work, the day after this occurred, that is why I haven't had them look at it yet). It sounded like it was coming from the camshaft, not down low by the connecting rod. Either way, it does not sound good at all. I'm curious to see what they say. I will keep you posted.
  • cars19cars19 Posts: 2
    my 07 A4 uses a qt every 4000 miles. The dealer tells me this is normal. Has anyone else found this to be a problem?
  • tom204tom204 Posts: 9
    A quart every 4000 miles is very good. I use a quart every 2000 miles. According to Audi (also to VW), this engine can use 1 quart per 1000 miles. Almost all the A4s, Passats, etc. have this problem, though not all. A small percentage can make it without additional oil between required oil change. It is due the weak design of the PCV valve system (Audi calls it a pump).
  • I'm shocked to hear about this supposedly routine oil burning issue because I never need to add oil - as far as I know. I have a 2005+ Audi A4 (4 cylinder turbo) with 41,000 miles. I don't check the oil, but I get oil changes as required. I'll start checking the oil now, but I'd assume that I'd get some type of electronic notification or engine light if I needed more oil. Isn't that so?
  • roblawroblaw Posts: 17
    I occasionally monitor the forums of cars I may be interested in. The new A4 seems like a great all around car; right size, enough room for my family of 4, all wheel drive, nice performance with decent mileage and a great interior.

    Then I read what Audi owners seem to go through and it scares me. While my Honda and Lexus cause me very few problems, I am appalled by the way Audi apparently treats their customers. In the few issues that I have had with the Lexus and Honda my dealers made every effort to satisfy me. I had warped rotors on the Honda (at 27k) and my service rep got Honda to pay for new rotors. I had a very slight pulsation in the brakes of my Lexus (at 15K) and my Lexus was returned the same day with 4 new rotors and sets of pads without even mentioning it to me, and of course, free of charge.

    I can live with a car that has a few problems (I have an Audi dealer near my house) but I simply do not have the time or desire to spend my time fighting with the dealer to repair items that should not fail in the first place. Also it sounds like Audi of America does not seem to care very much about its clients.
  • tom204tom204 Posts: 9
    First of all, if you have a 1.8T engine, you should have no problem at all. The oil usage issue pertains to the 2.0T, which is an entirely different engine, not just an enlarged 1.8 liter turbo. Secondly, if you you are low on oil, the low oil light will come on. It is also true that not all 2.0T engines use oil. Some doesn't any at all. Unfortunately, this is a small minority. It is all due to the marginal design of the check valves in the PCV system. Marginal means that it sometimes works, but not reliablly so.
  • tom204tom204 Posts: 9
    Everything you say in the first paragraph is true. It is the most enjoyable car I have ever driven and I had Acuras and Hondas. The only problem I have with the Audi A4 2.0T is the endless checking and topping off of the oil supply and Audi's complete indifference to the problem. A quart of oil per 1000 miles?
  • Yes, I have the 1.8T engine on my 2005+ convertible and I guess that explains why oil burning is not an issue for me. Since so many on this forum are mentioning their disatisfaction with their Audi dealer, I'd like to say that I've always been happy with the service at mine. Once I had a coolant leak and another time an engine coil went bad, but both times I was happy with the service. The engine coil was replaced the same day I brought the car back. (I'd just had the 30,0000 service done, and the engine coil went bad that day.) Though I was without the car for several days after the coolant leak, I was totally happy with the new free loaner convertible I'd been given while I was without my car.
  • jwdlemjwdlem Posts: 7
    My experience with an Audi A4 Turbo Cab unfortunately reinforces your concerns. With just 4,000 miles on the car we experienced a catastrophic safety system related failure. The dealer was ham strung by Corporate in fixing the problem. After 4 unsuccessful attempts and over 21 days in the shop we entered a Lemon Law process. We won the arbitration and Audi (VW) was required to repurchase the car. Audi ignored the arbitration outcome and we are now in line for a trial. :lemon:
  • Can a used Audi get certified even if the dealer selling the car isn't an authorized Audi dealer? They're a VW authorized dealer and sell audi's and vw's...

    They claim they can get it certified but how do i know it's not just a extended warranty?

    It's an 07 A4 with low miles and still has the manufacturers warranty. Please help!
  • rjlaerorjlaero Posts: 659
    No. VW can't CPO an Audi. All CPO cars must be purchased @ authorized dealers. The same is true for MB, BMW, etc.

    VW/Audi credit is linked together. But not sales and the dealerships are different.
  • I have an A4 turbo. I have just had an oil light problem. I found that the engine was also noisier due to a lack of oil getting up to the top of the engine. In the end we stripped the sump off, which entailed lifting the engine slightly and taking off the passenger side mounting. We then cleaned out the oil pump pipe and strainer in the sump. Massive improvement and problem solved. It doesn't hurt to do an engine flush each time you do an oil change, it will save you doing the sump job probably. As for oil we were told to use 5w/40 but instead used 10w/40. It is only slightly thicker.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Also, especially on V-6 cars, use Audi oil filters, not aftermarket ones. These cars have unpredictable issues with various aftermarket filters, including lifter noise and even collapsing lifters causing no-starts right after an oil change. Seeing is believing, and I've seen it happen. Switch the oil filter, car starts right up! I haven't seen this problem with the turbo 4 however, but you never know.
  • I have had the opposite experience. My '04 1.8T went through a good amount of oil and my '06 2.0T hasn't burned any since I purchased it CPO last summer after putting about 10k miles on it.
  • davida2davida2 Posts: 16
    I have a 99 A4 V6, Quattro with 142k miles. The transmission is starting to act up. When it's cold the transmission will not shift smoothly from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd. The RPM needs to get above 3k to shift. When it's warm, there's no problem. I was advised against a transmission flush, as this may cause complete failure of the transmission. Is this true? Need your advice.

    Thanks :confuse:

  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    Are you just a bit low on fluid? It may be worth checking as transmission fluid expands quite a bit when warm. I have seen this kind of behavior in the past in cars where the fluid is just a pint or two low.
  • davida2davida2 Posts: 16
    How do you check if it's low? It does not have a gauge.

  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    Not sure if you have a sealed unit or if there is a dipstick for the transmission. Check the owners guide on the procedure and see where that takes you. Good luck.
  • Your car is 10 years old. Do you know if it has ever had transmission fluid changed?

    Just from my own experience -- back in the days when living in Europe, i had two used German cars with automatic transmission, not Audi's though. Both at some point of time had a problem similar to yours, solution was transmission flush in one case, and fluid change in other. So i think there's nothing to be afraid of.

    You better have your transmission fixed sooner than later! And dont forget to replace the filter too.
  • I could have written that post... :P

    Audi and BMW dealer around the corner and my Acura dealer is 1 hour away. Luckily nothing goes wrong with my Acuras ;) . (knock on wood)
    The new A4 really looks like a sweet ride, much improved over previous generation and at a better value than it's BMW competitor. However, frequent trips to the service dept. for a $40k vehicle does not sound appealing to me. Anyone have any good reports about their A4's reliability?
  • kinctkinct Posts: 59
    I have just 5400 miles on my 07 A4 2.0T - no problems, absolutely no oil consumption (there must be some by definition, but it is so small as to be not detectable).

    One thing about all of these high-end cars that introduce new gadgets - the gadgets are what tends to break down / be less reliable. Makes one yearn for a simpler vehicle. :-)
  • "Anyone have any good reports about their A4's reliability?"

    Statistically insignificant statements follow, but here you go. 2007 A4 MT with 42,000 miles. Exactly zero problems with this car. Nada. Does not burn oil. I have never added additional oil to this engine. No squeeks, no rattles, except for the interior map light emmiting a rattle now and then.

    No doubt someone will retort with a story of a pos 1.8t. Whatever.
  • Today I went to Audi dealer because my check engine light is on. After 1 hour work, they told me that my car needs a new Torque Converter, and it will cost me $3,400 ($1,500 for parts and $1,900 for labor). I purchased my car 2 years ago at 49k miles, and it has been good til today. Right now I have 69k miles on my car, and I just do not feel replacing torque converter at 69k miles. I will definitely look for second opinion. Has anyone had the same problem before?
  • kinctkinct Posts: 59
    Definitely get a second opinion. There are some shady operations out there (yes, dealers included) that will happily replace parts until you turn blue in the face and walk out. The greatest find is that mechanic that says "um, I found the issue and it'll cost you $74.83 parts & labor" when someone else told you it was $3,000. We had a shop like that nearby that we went to for many years and swore by. Then, the owner's son took over the operation and it totally switched around "to the dark side". You started getting $800, $1,100 bills for "repairs" and the issue was still there.

    Any big dollar items should be scrutinized heavily.
  • Same problem here on a '02 Audi A6 Avant Quattro. 77k mi. Got the check engine light and a VAG code read out of 17125 Torque Converter Clutch: Stuck OFF etc...

    Went to an independent dealer who quoted $2,500 (11 hrs. labor, $953 for the new part). They need to drop the transmission, re-align the wheels, etc. and it sounded reasonable. The local dealer quoted $3,700 for the same repair. I think I take the first option.

    My question to the community, I haven't experienced any significant clutch slippage, only a very subtle jerk in 1st/2nd gear transitions. Has anybody ever destroyed a transmission by driving like this without getting it repaired ? I know I have, a '81 French Citroen CX2500 with 80k mi and a '71 Plymouth Satellite at 90k. Both were POS cars.

    From what I have read, the computer will shut down the car if the slippage becomes too strong. Not sure if I want to take that chance.

    Don't spend unless you have to. Cheers, -atmfrank
  • I just wonder, when the CEL went on, and they read the code out. is it possible that something else went wrong? like a bad connector or a bad wire? or they just do bother to check it and jump in the conclusion for replace whole thing..

    Today I was driving, and the CEL went off by itself. I have no idea what is going on, I thought the CEL won't go off until I replace the torque converter. Therefore, it makes me wonder, what is the real problem...
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