Honda Accord Accessories

hondasellertx

If the remote start is installed as part of the purchase it is covered by the factory warranty. Not only is it covered for 3/36 it also doesn't risk voiding any part of the factory warranty which an aftermarket install can do. It is also taxed at the new vehicle tax rate and not the retail tax rate, at least in Texas, which saves a little money.

atlantabenny

For those wanting an in-dash changer, try Ebay (keyword: 2003 Accord) for ongoing auctions on stock units with buy-now prices at $185 and $200.

tblazer503

that worry me is that depending on the vehicle, it may require you to leave a key in the vehicle. Especially these chipped keys... that can add up to an expensive committment. In my GM, the problem I had was that I would have to buy the key, and they would hide it under the dash... If you do have it done, double check the work... they say they hide the brain too, but you can find it in about a minute if you know what you are looking for(they generally leave it very accessible in case they have to work on it)... just be careful who you trust with your car....

snoopy33

Thanks for the tips!! I picked up my LX Accord on Monday. Love this car. I think the single disc player in the dash will be fine. I will get a starter put in. I've been told that because of the chip put in the key, I would have to have my valet key put in the remote starter box so when starting the car remotely it recognizes the chip and doesn't think someone is stealing it. My 2 suggestions for Honda would be a more powerful amp for the radio. With the windows open it just doesn't seem loud enough. Anyone have any suggestions on that? And secondly, have the pwr door locks lock when the ignition starts and open when you pull the handle to EXIT the car. My Taurus had that feature and it was great. I lock my doors and everytime I get out of the car I forget to unlock them and end up pulling on the handle too hard. Aside from that, great car and fun to drive.

venanzik

Do they make a rear sunshade for the 2003's yet? i did see a site which listed them for the 98-02 cars. any one have one of those instaled? if so does it fit well and look like it was part of the car or does it just look like an after thought.

kentuckyduck

After buying an '03 Pilot for my wife, I've now inherited our '99 Accord EX-V6. The '99 replaced a '94 Accord EX, which we loved until a teenage girl blew a stop sign and totaled it.

The stereo in the new Accord is decent, but it doesn't have the same volume/fullness as the '94. After a couple days of driving it and fiddling with the bass/treble/fader combo, I realized there is almost no sound coming from the rear speakers. A quick peek under the trunk lid solved the riddle. Unlike the '94, the '99 doesn't have a trunk-mounted amp powering the rear speakers.

Has anyone out there done an aftermarket rear amp addition combined with a rear speaker upgrade? I'm fine with the sound quality up front, but the current set-up leaves the rear speakers as worthless. By the time you fade enough power to the back to hear the rears, the front sounds like crap! Enough ranting, though. Any solutions?

I'm also willing to just upgrade the rear speakers w/out adding an amp, but I doubt it'll make that much of a difference.

naveen75

I just got off the phone with a crutchfield 'advisor' and the following are the speaker that he suggested for my car.
I am a novice when it comes to audio systems and was wondering if anyone has an opinion on the speakers below. The stock honda system is rated for 120 watts but i am not sure how that translates to each speaker's performance.

front: Kenwood KFC-1668S 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers ($50). Have to remove the door panel.
pearl mica injection-molded woofer with cloth surround
PEI balanced dome tweeter
sensitivity 92 dB frequency response 35-22,000 Hz
recommended power range 2-35 watts RMS
peak power handling 140 watts
top-mount depth 1-11/16"

rear : Polk db 690 6"x9" 3-way Speakers ($150)
polymer/mica composite woofer
butyl rubber surround
liquid-cooled, silk/polymer composite 3/4" dome tweeter
1" silk/polymer composite midrange driver
2-way crossover network
recommended power range 10-100 watts RMS
peak power handling 300 watts
frequency response 35-22,000 Hz
sensitivity 93 dB
top-mount depth 3-3/16"

bigkahunafl

Wish I could give you some advice about actually doing the upgrade, but thought I would a comment about those rear Polk speaks - Sweet!

bigsweaty

Anybody know how much I should be paying for premium mats in the 2003/2004 EX sedan. The list is 125.00, but I have seen the price from 90-93.75 online. Is there an invoice price I should aim for?

anonymousposts

check out www.handa-accessories.com. They have the cheapest prices I have seen so far on accessories.

fjm1

They've got the "good" speakers in the wrong place!

I'm not an expert but do know that you want to spend the money on the front sound stage before worrying about the rear.

Nothing against Kenwoods but if I had my choice I'd find some Polk/Infinity/Boston Accoustics to fill the FRONT and put Kenwoods in the BACK.

Let us know how it goes!

shadowfax2

for excellent Honda parts at reasonable prices. I took the advice of Anonymousposts and purchased the deck lid spoiler and also a set of fog lamps. These were installed by a local bodyshop guy I know. He actually does a lot of the work for the local auto dealers. He said the installation of the spoiler was a cinch but the fog lamps were a nightmare. But he got them installed and they look and work just fine. I paid approx. $236 each for the spoiler and lamps and he charged $150 to install both..a real bargain from what I hear from others. I highly recommend H and A. They sent the wrong spoiler the first time around but immediately sent UPS to pick up the wrong part and also credited shipping on my whole order. I had the correct part within a week. To anonymousposts - you were right - the deck lid spoiler looks excellent... I have also added chrome tail pipe extensions..she's really looking good!!

anonymousposts

Glad I could help. H and A has always been awesome.

Sounds like you got a great deal on the installation. Can't wait until Saturday when our sedan goes in for the same accessories. Looks kinda stock right now.

atlantabenny

For those wanting an in-dash changer for their 03, there's a factory unit on ebay for $195 (buy-it-now").

lelandhendrix

I have a 2003 LX Sedan, and am interested in adding the 6-disc changer that comes from the EX model.

What I am specifically interested in knowing is what affect the HVAC controls will have. Will the replacement enable 'AUTO' settings? Dual Zone? Or will I loose control. I'm hoping someone can help me find out because I'd really like to upgrade to the 6-cd changer.

Thanks.

anonymousposts

Have you thought about adding a changer to the trunk? Might not be as iffy when it comes to the wiring of the car and how the AC and stereo display operates.

lelandhendrix

I thought about it, but I had one of those once before and I really didn't like the hassle. It was easier for me to just fumble with discs in the car than to load things in the trunk.

I also like the display appearance on the changer model better, being black face with white letters rather than vice versa. I'm just wondering if anyone knows what the effect would be on the HVAC. Thanks though.

anonymousposts

Call your dealer.

atlantabenny

When I posted that ebay suggestion, didn't realize it was an EX-L unit w/auto climate control. I read that it needs sensors in various interior locations for it to work as intended. The non-leather EX unit with changer should be the perfect swap out for the LX, unless said sensors can be had somehow.

eswanborg

It's not cheap, but you can get a Honda 6-disc in-dash changer to add to a DX or LX. It's over $400, so I'm not sure if it's important enough to you, but it is available.

longdawg

anonymousposts and shadowfax2, did y'all buy the low profile spoiler as opposed to the rear-wing spoiler? If so, do you have any pictures of how it looks? I'm looking at buying an Accord and am interested in the deck-lid spoiler, but I have not seen one yet on an Accord, other than in the brochure and on Honda's website. Thanks.

anonymousposts

but I do have the deck-lid spoiler on my silver Accord. Looks VERY nice IMO. If you have a few local Honda dealers you should go around and see if they have one with the deck-lid spoiler already installed.

atlantabenny

You can still get the EX-L stereo (w/changer) and use it in the LX by swapping just the head units and using the LX's original HVAC control fascia. The head units are removable from their fascia (the stereo/HVAC casing).

lelandhendrix

Thanks for that! That makes the most sense of all - swapping the control fascia. It lets me know that the unit is NOT the brain of the hvac, it just holds the covers of the buttons. Makes lots of sense now.

Cheers!

atlantabenny

You're welcome. If you've not seen it, go to ebay for one EX-L unit currently (9/25/03) on auction.

atomic300

I just got a 2003lx and would like to put a cargo net. What needs to be done. If anyone has one can you do it yourself or just go buy a cargo net from a autostore or do you need a honda one? Do I need to buy hooks or does honda need to do this?

anonymousposts

We let the dealer install the cargo net on our 04 Accord. They charged us $97 for the net and installation. You might be able to buy it from www.handa-accessories.com and pay your dealer for installation only. I wouldn't attempt to install the OEM net on my own because there is drilling involved. Aftermarket ones may be different though.

ken972

Im still trying to figure out how to make both of these accessories work together. Can the cargo net work with just the top mounts installed? drilling holes in the cargo tray for the bottom mounts kinda defeats the purpose.

hmurphy

Has anyone had the sunroof wind deflector installed after purchase? I'm wondering whether it makes a noticeable difference in wind noise. I would like to hear from people who added it after purchase, as they would be better able to compare wind noise with and without the deflector.

winbro

I opted not to get the deflector upon purchase. I Knew there would be noise, I just wanted to see if it was totally unbearable. well I would classify the noise without the deflector as bearable, but just bearly. I was still able to hear the radio and on smoother roads it was better. IMO the deflector looks kind of funky up there - I like the flat look better.

tblazer503

the sunroof deflector is a great design. keeps it pretty quiet in the car when the roof is tilted or wide open, but looks very strange.

IMO, completely messes up the body line of the car, and here's the cincher: it tears up the paint.

I had a deflector on my car when I bought it. Set up an appointment for them to remove it b/c they weren't going to get $300 from me for it, and during the 2weeks it was on it, it was very quiet. After they removed it, there was about 2-3x more noise with it wide open and about 2x with it tilted. Unfortunately, the month or so the roof was installed, it caused a small ~1/32" groove in the paint where it sat. I would imagine over time, that it would be a bigger imperfection in the paint.

hmurphy

Thanks for your input.

I agree that the deflector looks odd, and I'm generally not into sticking extra stuff all over the car. I thought it might be worth it, though, if it really reduced wind noise.

It just occurred to me that the deflector would make it more difficult to get the snow off of the roof in the winter (no garage, sigh...), though it's probably not a big deal.

As for the paint, I know how sensitive it is, having scraped a sizeable chunk off of the bumper when I was putting my bike in the trunk.

Food for thought...

fjm1

I have a 2003 accord. It did not come with a deflector and was fairly noisy, especially for back seat passengers.

Installed a deflector (Ventashade?) from JCWhitney, $30.xx w/shipping. Almost no noise in the cabin now. The one I bought is much cheaper than the Honda version and does not cover half of the sunroof opening.

The downside is that I also did not initially like the looks of it.

briansbluetoy

I just installed the cargo net ($24 from H&A). I went by the directions and it was a walk in the park (40 minutes and a cocktail on a friday nite).

The top holes were already drilled, just had to remove the carpeting panel, thread the bolt and drill a hole in the carpeting panel.

On the bottom, I only installed the studs directly below the top hooks as I did not want to install or use the rear studs on the floor.

I am very happy with the net. It works perfectly. The other nice perk is that it stops the groceries from rolling around the trunk also (even when not in the net)

IMO the bottom studs are completely optional (for use with the tray).

regulatex

Hello! I have a 2003 Honda Accord Sedan that comes with 6 speakers and 2 tweeters. I would like to replace the two front-doors factory speakers with an after-math market speakers that would put out more 2-35 rms watts power. I am planning to hook up my 4-channel amp (100 rms per channel) to my midranges (a pair of infinity of 110 rms watts in the rear, 2-35 rms watts in the front). My question are will my 4-channel amp with a 100 rms watts of powr per channel blow up those 2-35 rms speakers? Currently I have one 10" Polk subwoofer that connected to a 200 RMS 2-channel AMP. I would like to upgrade my front-doors speakers to have clear crispy sound. What midrange speakers size or type do you guy recommended? Bass is not my number one priority. I just need quality sound. Do you guys think I need another amp to help the headunit boosting up power to the new front-doors speakers?
Will the factory head-unit be able to provide enough power to the new speakers if I decided not to used the 4-channel amp? Any help on this matter will be greatly appreciated.

tblazer503

infinity reference speakers. best bang for the buck, IMO.

If you are adding in an amp, you will need a hi-lo converter, you won't like the white noise in the speakers, trust me.

I did a full install, but can't seem to send the pics to anyone, 'cause their email kicks it back... the email is about 5.6mb. if you want, shoot me an email and I will forward it to you.

regulatex

Thank for the info Tblazer...I would like to know if I could hook up my kenwood speakers, which measures at 2-35 rms power per speaker, to my 4 channels amp which put out 100 rms of power per channel. Will I take a chance of blowing those kenwood speakers since they are under-power? Or should I just hook up the kenwood's to the head-unit and eliminate the amp? When you said adding a hi-lo converter, you mean the hi-lo needs to be connected to the 2 amps or just the amp that empowers the midranges? Btw, I am using the factory head-unit. I am a novice when it comes to this matter. My email trithanh1@hotmail.com thanks!

tblazer503

Im thinking you have 1 4 channel amp or 2 2channel amps?

a hi-lo converter means a unit that converts your speaker outputs from the headunit(hi) to coaxial cables(lo) this is a real bear to adjust but can be done in about an hour or so.

You shouldn't have any problem hooking up your amp to the speakers as you should be able to adjust the gain to the front speakers to "level" out the loudness. (the 35watt speakers will be much louder than the 100watt speakers under the same gain setting)

I should be able to send something out in a few days.

regulatex

Once again thanks for the info...I have one 2-channel amp that is hooked up to my 10" Polk Subwoofer. In addition, I have a 4-channel amp (Profile CL640) that I am planning to hook up to my midrange speakers which is a pair of infinity speakers in the rear and 2 Kenwood in the front doors. I am only concerned with the Kenwood speakers (35 rms watts) since they are under power as compare to Profile CL640 amp with a 75 rms watts per channel. I have been warned by the Crutchfield advisor that I will run a significiant risk of blowing the Kenwood's if I connected them to the amp. But I am going to hook the kenwood up as u recommended tblazer...crossing fingers...thanks! Btw...problem with the trunk rattling when there are too much bass. Any suggestion to stop that tblazer? And how many hi-lo converter I need and how much do they cost?

tblazer503

I am running 2 12" RF in a dual sealed enclosure. I have no major problems with rattling, but I usually don't turn it up to deafening levels... If you do, dynamat, pretty expensive stuff, but may help to dampen the sound and prevent the rattling.

Generally speaking, if you have a lot of rattling, I would guess you are running a band pass vented box. If you have the money, IMO get the sealed. generally get better consistency of sound throughout the range as opposed to the bandpass, where certain frequencies will come out significantly louder. I have had 2 bandpass boxes, and 2 sealed. never went back to bandpass. Only problem is that you generally need a bit more power to get the same "punch" out of a sealed, but the bass is much clearer, and more uniform. you also don't need as much cu ft to run sealed... =o)

I think I paid about $60 for my hi-lo adjustable converter. I am running my rears thru my mono sub amp, and using the passthru to run the mids. If you don't have a passthru on your amp, you will probably need a 2 and a 4 channel adjustable amp. I believe that cartoys has the 2 channel for like 45 and the 4 for 60.

justn8

Just found this forum this week and have learned a ton...and just in time.
Someone stole the stereo and speakers out of our 98 Accord V6 (they didn't even do a nice job - they cut the wires instead of unplugging).
My question is this - will any Honda stock stereo work w/ the steering wheel controls? I know I could go to crutchfield and find aftermarket stuff, but I'd like to stick w/ Honda stuff for fit and finish reasons.
I was thinking of upgrading to the 6-disc in dash or maybe 2 units - 1 CD and 1 tape in the opening. And while I'm in there, adding a jack for my iPod to plug in to that I found on logjamelectronics.com
If you haven't guessed, I don't replace stereos for a living. I've done 2-3 aftermarket ones in previous cars, but w/ harnesses, not cut wires.
Any suggestions/advice would be great.

anonymousposts

I think you would have to stick with with the CD player that came with the stereo controls. You might be able to upgrade to the 01-02 in-dash changer though since it is the same size and used the same steering wheel controls.

Try ebay. Might be able to find a pretty cheap one on there.

sockpuppet1969

Do any of you know how complicated it is to install satellite radio in a 2003 Accord with Nav? I would like to use the AUX input rather than go through the radio. What type of connector does this use? where is it located (do I need to pull the unit out or can I access it from behind without taking my dash apart)?

Thanks

aggie1995

Will a powered subwoofer like the Infiniti Basslink work with the stock stereo of the 03 Accord?

Will I still retain all the steering wheel controls?

I don't want a thumping public nuisance, just a little more low end for my music.

veasnalong

For car with navigation only To those who interested in watching DVD on your navigation system you need to buy this unit at
http://www.avelectronic.com/products.htm
please drive saftly for driver need to pay attention on the road.

ken972

In a 04 Accord does anyone have an idea where i can find something similar to the material honda used to line the sunglass holder? My sunglasses rattle around the parts of it that arent lined.

regulatex

I just ordered a pair of Infinity Kappa 692.5i and need support on how to install those speakers to my 4-channels amplifier. I am using factory head unit. I am planning to hook those speakers to an amp that have high level input(HLIP). Based on what I know I have to use the HLIP since I am using the stock head unit. My questions are since the Infinity speakers came with 2-ways exterior passive cross-overs where would I connect those cross over to? And where or what do I connect the high level input with? Do I connect them to one rear-speaker or both rear speakers wires? If so where in the speakers wires do I tap into. Anywhere or at the lead of the wire? On the HLIP wiring harness, there's a 'thin' black ground wire among other wires. What do I do with that thin ground wire? I mean on the back of the amp there is already a 4-gauge ground wire, which is next to the power and remote wires, thatI have already grounded to the car chassic. So do I ground that small black wire too or leave it unused? And if I decided to hook the front speakers to the amp would I have to use the HLIP to tap into those front speakers wire as well? I just need to know where to connect the HLIP to the speaker wires. I don't want to end up burning the speakers or crossover if I hooked them up wrong. Thanks you!

tblazer503

from my personal experience, don't use the high level input. you can, but the white noise will be intolerable.

I had mine hooked up this way and it was a royal pain. I ended up getting a hi to lo converter that converts the high level out off the head unit to RCA cables so that I can run low level into the amp, then by adjusting the gain level on the converter and amp, getting the best setup I could.

If you are going to use the high level inputs, though... the wires from the head unit should go to the input. If you have an external x-over for the 695i's, you should only need to hook up one set of wires to it. Most of the speakers that I have seen with external xovers piggyback off the main speakers input to the xover.

If you are unsure, have a professional install everything for you... should cost about $200 or so to tie in a hi-lo converter(+60), run the RCA's(~50-100) and wire in the speakers... if you have to buy those parts, you should be able to get out for less than 400 or so.

elfy6x

Hey I have a question about the lighting behind the dashboard in the new Accords. Is there any way to change to color of those lights to say blue? Essentially, I'm trying to go for a look similar to what a VW Jetta has. I don't an Accord yet, but when I do, it will be the first thing I do to it, and I was wondering how difficult/easy it would be to change the dashboard lights. Any help is greatly appreciated.

jebinc1

Does anyone know how to reset this airbag light? My dealers service department is staffed by idiots. They installed a day night mirror in my 04 (after I told them that I'd rather do it myself) and now the SRS light is on. Of course, I could bring it back to the dealer on Monday, but I'd rather reset it first myself. Is there a way?????

Thanks