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I think I might have been able to get this deal for around $300-$400 less, but I didn't want the hassle of the back and forth for the next couple weeks. The $24,990 includes the dealer fees and destination (they had to do a dealer swap to get my color choices), so with TTL it should be around $26,326 (sales tax of 6.0%).
LXP. Silver with gray interior. No trade. No money down (3.9% through local credit union). Florida, with 6% sales tax and a few standard state fees. Tag transfer. Includes trunk liner, splash guards, and window tint.
OTD, 21,414. Hope it helps.
1) Tell the salesperson (only if it's true) that you're ready to buy the specific model + trim by a particular date, and that the dealer who gives you the best deal by the close of business on the day before that date will get your business. The very end of the month is usually a good time to buy since sales performance bonuses are usually determined on a monthly basis. Make sure they know you've done your homework, but that you're not desperate to close a deal. I bought mine (ACcord EX-L sedan 4cyl no nav) on New Year's Eve.
2) Get your financing lined up ahead of time. Get your credit score online for free. Get pre-approved at a local bank, credit union, or with Honda Finance. Don't play the "monthly payment game" with the dealer. That's a signal to the dealer that they can easily distract you from the bottom line. Remember they make money off the financing as well. Only go with the dealer financing if it's a better deal, then use it as leverage in your negotiation. And don't be distracted by the "cash back" incentives, factory rebates, etc. - just focus on the bottom line.
3) I don't know if it works this way everywhere, but I was told that the Internet sales staff at the dealer where I eventually ended up buying my Accord are paid a flat fee per car they sell, instead of a commission based on the price they negotiate, like the showroom salespeople. Which means that they can give you a lower price since their motivator is simply to close as many deals as they can. So I called around and asked to speak to an Internet Saleserson.
3) Keep a detailed spreadsheet of all the people at the different dealers that you speak to, the dates you last spoke to them, the prices they quote you. And make sure they quote you prices on your terms, not theirs. My spreadsheet had a column for each dealer, then rows for every single cost: base cost, freight, tags, tax, etc. and a bottom line total for the OTD price. Don't be shy about asking them to repeat themselves and to let them know that you're building a spreadsheet to compare various dealers' prices. That lets them know you're serious. If you know you want a particular option (I knew I wanted the side moulding) get the price up front, and don't let them tell you that those prices are handled by someone else. Don't let them make you feel bad about asking them to repeat the numbers, and repeating their promise that there are no other hidden costs. I just told them that if any of the numbers on the final work order were different than the ones we were agreeing to, that I would simply walk out of the room. And be prepared to do that.
After I finally determined exactly what car I wanted, I began calling dealers about two weeks before the end of the month, getting their "first number" - about $24k in my case. A week later I did a second round of calls, letting them know that I was still serious about buying on the date I had mentioned previously, and asking them to re-visit the price they had given me ("I've been talking to dealers x, y, and z about this car, and I just wanted to make sure that this is your very best price"). I got prices in the low-mid $23k range.
As luck would have it, the deal I ended up with was from a post on this board, which I stumbled upon about three or four days before the end of the month. I spent the last couple days seeing if anyone could beat it, and was told that my price couldn't possibly be true, that the dealer was going to switch something at the last minute. It ended up being about $1000 lower than the next best price. I ended up with a base price of $21,800, and about $23,900 OTD.
Just wondering how many others have been able to "order" the car they wanted at a good price.
Thanks for your tips!
Over the weekend I went out to test drive cars for the second time, and I finally decided on the '09 Honda Accord LX-P Polished Metallic. I already have all my financing set-up, but now that I know which car I'm buying I'm just trying to find the best deal. We have not talked about any prices at the local dealer in our area so far I've just test drove and picked the car, but after I went home on Saturday I immediately started gathering internet quotes from the Houston dealers. Of course, we'd prefer to buy local, but Houston is still close enough to provide more options. One Houston dealer came this morning back with (rounded prices):
$20,457 Base Price
$1,278 Tax (6.25% in TX)
$51 Inventory Tax
$50 Document Fee
$33 Title Fee
$72. License Fee
$24 Inspection Fee
$21,965 Total Drive Out
Does this look like a good deal? Friday is the day I plan to go with my dad to finalize a price.
Do you mean that you went through the dealers' Web sites to get a quotes? I found that I got much better pricing from calling and asking to speak to an "Internet Salesperson" than I did when I just got the quotes through the Web sites.
Why? Salespeople evaluate how serious a buyer is through a variety of means, and a form on a Web site doesn't give the salesperson a enough of that information, a lot of which is intangible. So the Internet quote is, I believe, not going to be a dealer's "best" number. For that you need to call and speak to a real live person (preferably an Internet Salesperson; see my previous posts for the reasons). It can be intimdating, especially doing it for the first time, but just focus on getting the right numbers, and don't be afraid to ask them to explain anything you don't understand, and to repeat the numbers so you know exactly should be on the final order form. Playing dumb ("Can you explain the difference between x and y?") can actually be a good tactic, because they might make the mistake of underestimating you, which gives you leverage in a couple ways.
And be firm on doing the deal on your terms - I had a couple sales people tell me that I would have to come in to the showroom to get final pricing. I just said (nicely) something like - "Here's the deal - I know what car I want, and I'm buying one on Friday. And I'd really like to give you a shot at my business, but I can't come into your showroom. So it's your choice."
Let them know that you're serious - that you know exactly what car/trim/color/options/warranty you want, that you have your financing lined up, and especially be clear that you're ready to buy on Friday and that you're talking to other dealers and whoever gives you the best price by the end of the day Thursday will get your business on Friday. A firm deadline like COB Thursday will make them focus.
Good luck! Let us know how you do!
Would you guys be nice enough to tell me if i got a good deal on this. This is for an older year 08 Accord EX-L V6 sedan but NEW. I got it for 24,000 before taxes and registration. I was able to get them to throw in HID lights ($895), Lojack($795) and Lojack lifetime activation ($695) included for the price. Is this a good deal???
Thanks in advance!
I've been hesitating start talking price over the phone, because all the fees added on to the base price confuse me. Mainly, I'm not sure what fees can and can't be negotiated. I will go back and read your previous posts for some extra information.
One other thing though, when we went on Saturday to our local dealer, I asked for the Internet Salesperson whom I'd made the appointment with for test driving, but we sort of got handed off to a floor salesman once we were there. Is this normal? My mom and I even asked who we were dealing with towards the end because they were both talking to us at some point and were told it was the both of them.
That's what happened to me too, and it worked out fine. When I walked in I asked for the person to whom I had spoken on the phone, the Sales manager looked down his list of appointments, saw my name, and just said that David would be helping me today. He had the exact figures that the Internet Salesperson had given me, except for the side molding, and he just took my word for the price we had discussed. I had made the woman on the phone promise several times that the numbers she was giving me were the exact numbers that would be on the final order form (and they were), and that their wouldn't be any surprises (there weren't). And we went over the numbers several times until I was comfortable that everything added up. Again, don't feel bad asking them to repeat things and explain things. You can just say something like "I've never spent $20,000 before so I just want to make sure I get this right. And decide ahead of time if you want a warranty or not, if you want LoJack, and all those dealer options. If you want any of these options, know what they're worth before you sit down with the finance manager. Google "Confession of an Auto Finance Manager" and "Confessions of a Car Salesman" - both are definitely worth the time to read.
>all the fees added on to the base price confuse me...
All the fees and stuff will begin to seem more managable if you write them down in a spreadsheet. Again, look back through some of my posts over the last few weeks for a description of how I did my spreadsheet (not that mine is the only way that works, but it made the process a lot less confusing, and if I spoke to someone and they lowered the price since the last time I spoke to them, it was really easy to see if that was the best price overall). And ask lots of questions - like it might not seem obvious to a first time buyer that "freight" is the same as "destination charge". The dealers do stuff like that just make it just a little harder for some people to compare apples to apples. A spreadsheet helps keep all that straight. If you don't have Excel, try Google Docs (free and available from anywhere). Plus, telling a salesperson that you're tracking everything in a spreadsheet lets them know that you mean business, and that they probably won't be able to BS you.
And regardless of all the fees and stuff - all you're looking for is the absolutely best bottom line number, and you should be totally comfortable with how the salesperson arrived at it. Don't be distracted by the rebates, cash back, incentives, which fees can be negotiated and which can't, the "we're losing money on this deal..." comments, , etc. Don't play the monthly payment game. It's all irrelevant, and it's designed to distract you and to make you think you're getting a better deal. If you want a dealer to knock $500 off the price of a car to match a competitor, it shouldn't matter to you whether it comes off the base price of the car, or from the document fees, or whatever. Let them worry about that. Even though buying your first car is a very emotional thing, don't let your emotions take over the process. Kepp telling yourself that this is a business transaction, pure and simple.
And try to overcome your reluctance to talk money. That's a signal to a salesperson, and not one that works in your favor. Don't expect to get their best price right away. You get an initial figure one day, then as the big day approaches you call to tell them that you've been shopping around, that you're ready to buy on Friday, and "is that really your very best price?" And then get them to repeat all the figures to make sure they match up to what they've told you before.
With the salesman at the nearby dealer where we take my wife's CRV for service, I tried making the argument (Step 5) that we should get a better deal on my new Accord because we'll be bringing in not one but two cars for service there. He didn't seem to care. I ended up buying somewhere else.
On the agreement, it states the following; "If A Purchase, The Following Apply: Vehicle Protection Program $198.00, Credit Inquiry Fee (if applicable) $19.00, Co-Buyer Credit Inquiry Fee (if applicable) $19.00 (Wife will be on title), Registration/ Title Fee, with Transfer checked off, $40.50, DOC Fee, $279.00, and Online Registration Fee, $7.70. The registration fee is hand written, and the rest highlighted on the form that was there when form was made.
Before I signed form, I stated that I wanted what was on my TL at no charge, and that was pin stripe, wheel locks, mud guards, and matching color door edge guards. When I'm called to inform me that the car is in, I'm going to ask at no charge, for matching color door protection molding.
I new that I would take a hit in selling the TL after such a short time of ownership. I could have sold it privately, but would of paid sales tax big time when purchasing the Accord at agreed price. I'll pay sales tax only on $1,500. However, I strongly feel that my hit wasn't as bad as I thought. The TL is a great car, but because of a personal situation I had to sell it.
MSRP for Accord is apprx. $31,575. The price accepted by the dealer for the Accord was $27,400.
Thank you alamocity that link was great. I had not seen that site yet in my searching on the internet. It is very well laid out with steps for someone like me.
We shall see how it goes! I'll be sure to stop back by in a few days (and hopefully I've bought my Accord).
I don't have the exact numbers (except the OTD price) on the top of my head, but I think I got a good deal.
2009 Accord EX 4cyl Auto Sedan in Royal Blue
Base Price = $20500 + Tax & Fees = $22000 Out the door
I knew it was the last day for the incentives, so I tried to get it as low as I can.
I am trying to see what a good price in NC is is the 09 Honda Accord EX-L 4 Cyl Auto Sedan. I don't need any additional options. Our sales tax is 3% and most fees are 400.00. Is 23,000 before tax and fees good? Thanks.
I am trying to figure out a good price in North Carolina for 2009 Honda Accord EX-L 6Cyl Automatic Sedan. NC sales tax is 3% and dealer fees are $400. Is $24,998 price before taxes and title a good price? Thank you for all the help.
Thanks,
Richard
Did anyone recently buy EX 4 door model from a dealer near by Atlanta ? Do you guys have any idea what should be good deal (Out the door price with 7% tax) ?
Can you tell what all fees you have paid ? Dealer is asking following fee
Destination Charge $670
Document Fee $599.00
Wra fee $3.00
Title $18.00
Tax 7%
Here's the breakdown of my 2009 Honda Accord EX 4 Cyl Automatic Sedan:
Base Price - $20450.94
Electronic Title Transmission Fee - $20.00
Dealer Processing Charge - $100.00
Tire Recycling Fee - $4.00
Title Fees - $50.00
Lien Filing Fees - $14.00
Title Tax (6% in Maryland) - $1233.06
OTD = $22000
The car also has the "appearance package" that consists of wheel locks and mud guards.
.
I pretty much just negotiated the OTD price with dealers until I was happy. It was the last day for the February incentives and we had that snow storm that came in that day. I think they were pretty desperate to make a sale that day since no customers was there when I picked it up.
so i think you at least paid $1000 more for your car.or maybe there was no incentives at your time,i bought mine at feb 28th,which they said it should be the best time to buy the car.
but i didnt finance,dealer said there is no special rate but they can match what i have with my own bank.but my bank says 8% which is too high for me,so i paid cash.
Base car: 21850.00 (invoice = 23,935 so it was 2,000 under invoice)
Destination: 670.00
Sales tax (7%): 1576
New tire fee: 7.50
Online processing fee: 8.30
Registration/title: 251.00
Documentation fee: 259.00
OTD: 24,622
I think I did okay? Thoughts.... :confuse:
and you should not pay any fees but tax title lincens.and a $50 dmv doc fee.first time i heard there is new tire fee and online processing fee.and it is only 15 bucks,they wont throw in for you???
btw ,in the future let's post the done deal with vin number or dealer quote with stock number,otherwise no one gonna believe us.
See my post #22918. The selling price also included the Destination charge and yes it was $20450 for an EX auto. So I think I did pretty good. I had to negotiate hard though.