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First configure all of your options on the estimator (mileage, air, power, etc.) then, (even if your car is in perfect/excellent condition), select "fair" and calculate. Repeat and select "good" and then calculate.
Your price will be somewhere between these numbers (near the lower-end most likely).
I agree, it's not fair, but the price you pay for not selling it yourself.
Those figures will give you some bargaining strength. Good luck!
Bought it first week of September. Fantastic car.
Went to other 2 Honda dealers Wednesday and tonight - both choked at first on my "beat the $24,000 price." Smallest area dealer matched the $24K price but offered documentation/tag/title fees $657 lower. Middle-sized dealer also matched price, but went $245 lower than the smallest guy on their fees.
Have an appointment with the smallest dealer tomorrow - will give them last chance to reduce their doc fees (highest of 3) by $245 and I'll sign on the spot! Both of the larger guys said to watch out for the "$200 added fee for paying cash!"
Large dealer - $27,064 out the door (BTW - 7% sales tax in my area) - said dealer invoice for this car was $24,303. Couldn't find that mentioned anywhere yet, but seemed reasonable, given delta between 2003 EXV6 MSRP and dealer invoice on this website.
Middle dealer - $26,161 out the door (lowest fees of the 3)
Smallest dealer - $26,406 out the door, but with a chance to get the sale if they come down to $26,161 (they have loaner cars for service/repair work, big 2 don't!).
Edmunds provided some great data and info for making the deal. Felt very prepared doing this deal. Especially with blank pre-approved bank draft in my back pocket.
If the invoice is $10,000 and the car sells for $10,750 then the commissionable amount is around $250. The salesman most likely makes 25% of the commissionable amount with a "mini", a minimum deal, paying $50-100. Our mini is $100.
The salesman "may" make bonuses based on units sold or other criteria but there is no guaranty of that. He may only make what is in the commission.
When you've worked them down to an extra low figure and then at the last minute tell them you are going to walk unless you get wheel locks you will probably get them and often that is because it is coming out of the salesman's pocket to keep from losing the deal. Why? He may be close to a bonus level and by buying a set of wheel locks out of his pocket he can earn a gigantic $100 bonus.
When you meet a salesman that seems anxious or whatever it just may be because he can already feel a hand in his pocket doing to him what everyone accuses the salesman of doing to them.
Yes, there are some bad salesman out there just like any other vocation. No, they aren't all bad and in fact a large number are good. They just don't want to be taken any more than the consumer does.
For "kennyg5" - I asked the little guy that question today. Turns out they've had 3-4 credit unions try to charge them fees to do money drafts for full payments from buyers. So they charge the buyer using those CU's an "up to $200 fee" to offset the CU fee. My CU's (Navy Federal CU and Vystar CU - f/k/a Jax Navy Federal CU) are OK with the dealer. Paper pre-approved drafts, or any financing through them, does NOT generate the $200 fee. Naturally the competition says "you're gonna pay $200 extra if you pay cash!!" But that's not the full story - just a misquote (scare tactics?).
Will let y'all know when I'm the titled owner. It's been a "ride," but fun. Through it all the dealer was fair, but I felt more in control of the process by having them match my desires, and having the draft ready in my back pocket. Later.
In any case, this is a discussion where folks are invited to share their buying experiences and what they paid if they care to do so. There are many conversations well underway on our Smart Shopper board where the "American car buyer way" is dissected in the greatest detail.
I invite all of you who are interested in that subject to check out the list of discussions at that link. Enjoy!
BTW - the little guy I went with who has the loaners...turns out, when I pressed them this AM, that they provide loaners to *anyone* who brings their car in for service (what dealer in their right mind would turn away a service customer!?). So...buying from them, and paying the exhorbitant doc fee that supposedly helps pay for their loaner program, means I'm subsidizing the non-buyers (should have seen the face of the manager when he tried explaining that one to me). And to get the loaner, the service dept further clarified it means for service that extends past 2 hours waiting time (that's fine with me).
What's your take on the extended warranty (or Car Care Protection Plan) for $1,048 this dealer (Honda?) offers? Gets me a 3.9% financing rate (since the car is now "certified" in the CU's eyes, and beats my CU's 5.5%) and 6 year, 72K mile bumper-to-bumper, $0 deductible protection coverage.
They also offer a Car Care Service Plan for $571, covers all service costs for each 5K mile interval I bring it in. $1,575 if purchased together. Both are through JM&A group.
Would be interested in hearing from ANY buyers, as well as dealers.
regards,
kyfdx
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geo_cacher_fl
A Honda warranty can be a good thing. Honda is definitely going to be around for as long as the term of the warranty. Some of the aftermarket ones have gone out of business and people are left with nothing. The Honda warranty has a higher price but potentially much lower cost compared to needing the "cheaper" one after they're out of business.
The car care service plan might be worthwhile provided you will definitely keep the car for the full length of the services provided and always take it back in to them for the services. I'd find out exactly what and how many services are included and then compare the cost individually to the cost of the plan. Don't forget to factor in the finance cost, presuming it's rolled into your monthly payment.
FYI, and for anyone else who's interested, when they call you on the survey they'll ask you several questions and ask for an answer from 1 to 5. One would think that a 4 is desirable, being above average. Nope. It's a pass/fail system. A 5 is a pass and 4, 3, 2 and 1 are failing scores. If your salesman was decent give him all 5's, otherwise it's cutting his legs out from under him.
Thanks ahead of time!
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
Last time I went, it went like this... these are the trim's I'm interested in:4cylEX/EX-L 5MT 4dr. I have a certified letter from my CU for 4.blah percent 72mo 100%, for Full MSRP. I am upside down on my truck. What is your best deal? I will take your financing if you can beat my CU.
Worked well, spent under an hour in the first place, he wanted 5k out of pocket(yeouch) and did a phone in to internet sales across town, and he gave me inv +500 for the car, trade, gotta bring in... understandable. made an appointment, brought it in, he put the trade out, and offered me 21k for it(02 Trailblazer 4x4) so all in all, he wanted 2200 out of pocket... (still ouch). So he did some fanaggling, and got it to 2k, I had to have them remove the $150 mudflaps, and the $200 moonroof wind thingy, but he did let me keep the wheel locks since it wasn't on the add/remove dealer options list thing....
overall great experience... (wish they let me whip out my screwdriver there to remove the stuff, but you can't win them all)
gave him and the whole experience a 5...
Does anyone have a any idea of what a 2004 V6 EX-L with navigation price would be? I am probably too late for getting an 2003 huh?
Thanks for all the replies. I am in the Bay area and I got a Silver with Black interior. I love the color. We were also thinking about the Graphite which is another good color but then decided on the silver 'cause our other car is also a dark color. The price I paid included destination, with TTL the price came to about 25.8, still much less than MSRP.
The car is great and am enjoying it. The only complaint are the seats which are a tad bit uncomfortable. The lumbar support seems to be incorrectly placed and gave me a back ache.
Cheers
http://www.manhonda.com/new/index.cfm?pg=0&selId=51
The prices quoted on the above site are quite high and I suppose that anyone shopping there must negotiate the price much lower.......Richard
Any advice on what would be a fair offer for a 2004 EX-V6 Sedan, Silver with Black Leather and Navigation System. List price looks to be $28,400 according to Honda Web site. I am going to be using credit union finance so that won't be part of deal. I am in the San Fran/North Bay area.
Thanks
http://auto.consumerguide.com/auto/new/reviews/full/index.cfm/id/- 37579
Depending on how eager the dealer is to sell you a car, maybe a price of invoice plus $300 or somewhere near that amount would get you a favorable deal..........Richard
Note about Doc fees - I always tell the salesperson -in plain straight forward english - the price I am negotiating is $X plus I expect to pay - SALES TAX, TITLE & LICENSE FEES - If you must have an advertising or document or property tax or any other fee you need to include these in your price quote - do not try to add these in after we have set the price. Still about 3/4 of the time at closing they still try to add in these fees. I have never allowed these fees to be added on the back end of the deal. I have had to walk a few times. You can cut this up any way you want these fees are just an increase in the sales price and should be negotiated as part of the deal.
anonymousposts, you got an awesome deal. Where did you buy the car ?
Cheers
Does this make any sense to anyone? Knowing this, wouldn't most people choose the V6 and bargain from that cheaper V6 invoice price? Does anyone know if the consumerguide's invoices are correct, and if not, where one can get the correct info? (Right now Edmunds and Yahoo don't show the 2004 Accord invoices yet).
For your reference, the consumerguide site is:
http://auto.consumerguide.com/auto/new/reviews/full/index.cfm/id/- - - 37579
Thanks in advance. (I'm in the midst of shopping for the EX V6 NAV, hence the question).