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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • fxguyfxguy Posts: 132
    edited September 2013
    Brian, i also promise to stop talking about this with this post. Your experience here helps newbies but just like you, i am a car buying vet. I buy for myself and repeatedly help friends score great deals. Doc fees always come in when talking OTD not when comparing national below invoice pricing. Remember, this conversation started when someone mentioned how much below invoice they were getting NOT OTD pricing. You have your method and i have mine. Newbies can benefit from both. The most important thing is to score the lowest possible OTD price regardless of any fees dealers try to rape us for.
  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,226
    How do you compensate a high doc fee charge when you already agreed on a price with a dealer.

    Or... are you saying you take the dealerships doc fee into consideration making your best out the door price with dealerships?. in this case your putting the whole deal together with a certain target price in mind.

    Please explain: if doc fee's come into play with otd pricing.. How are you countering them. Dealers wont remove charge..

    I just want to understand how you buy vehicles.. and how your countering doc charges.......................Thanks

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • cinch1cinch1 Posts: 2
    edited September 2013
    Can anyone tell me how much a 2013 honda accord ex has depreciated since it was driven off the lot and returned?? I'm trying to do all my research so I get the best deal. And will the destination charge still apply on a returned newer car?? Please advise if you know as soon as you can. It would be much appreciated.
  • Been lurking this forum while considering an Accord purchase. Learning much from many contributors, including some with differing approaches - Brian, IsellHondas, and others.

    Thanks to all who share their experiences/insights here.

    Wanted to weigh in with 1st post to say discussions from Brian and some others about various dealer fees are helpful & relevant.

    Part of the forum's title is Prices Paid, so that doesn't seem limited only to invoice+destination as fxguy seems to be implying. Dealer fees for documentation, processing, "preparation", etc. that can vary among dealers or states are a component of total prices buyers have to pay out-the-door.

    If anybody feels it confuses anything, I suppose they're free to disregard posts that mention fees as part of OTD prices. But I share Brian's view that it's as relevant as any other money within a deal.

    (Hopefully I haven't misinterpreted fxguy's viewpoint. Looked to me as though he was suggesting that others shouldn't discuss in here a factor I think is useful for people who want to learn about it and keep it in mind.)
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    Driven off the lot and "returned"?

    You need to be more clear. Was the car ever registered to an owner? Did the deal immediately fall apart and got reversed?

    If the deal simply unwound, it's like it never happened. You WILL pay the destination charge because the first "buyer" never did.

    If the car was registered, then it's sold to you as a USED car and you won't pay the destination fee.

    How many miles are on the car?

    Now, if you are thinking you are going to somehow get some kind of a killer, ridiculous price on this slightly used car, I can tell you this won't happen.

    We used to discount manager's demos with less than 5000 miles. These were sold as new. I can tell you, we never lost money on them nor did we on any other new car we sold.

    It's all perception. Someone else will snap up that car thinking that they took advantage of someone else's misfortune.
  • Thanks for the info. It was returned by the previous owner because they decided to upgrade. It has about 4,000 miles on it and I think it's been on the dealership for about a month now. I'm only approved for a certain amount so I suppose it's still out of my range. I appreciate the feedback.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 699
    Ok fx - gotta put in my final .02. I was out of pocket for a few hours and gave this some thought. Here's my take - however you account for the numbers, as long as you get to your ultimate target, that is what counts. I see your point that if the doc fee is locked in concrete, then it doesn't really accomplish anything to mingle it with the basic below invoice target you are shooting for. The doc fee doesn't affect us much here in CA because it is capped at 80 bucks and pretty much all the dealers charge the 80 so it becomes a non issue when getting quotes. I know Brian advocates negotiating the selling price down to reduce or eliminate the impact of an out of line doc fee that a dealer can't or won't budge on - that seems like a good strategy. I will say this, and this is just me, if the doc fee is not locked in concrete, and is therefore negotiable, I would include it as part of my quote request to dealers (give me your price including dest and your doc fee). That way I have a common denominator to compare. I understand that others prefer to do it differently and that's fine - like I said - as long as the end result is your best price - that's what counts.

    Ok guys - thanks for listening.

    Bill
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 699
    Driver - this is my line of thinking also. I think fx is saying that because doc fees vary by location, and most are not negotiable, we should include them with the other mandated fees such as tax, title and license (TTL) to arrive at the out the door price. I like Brian's approach of attempting to get the dealer to adjust selling price to offset the doc fee as much as possible. I think this is gonna be one of those things that boils down to personal preference. I agree with you that it is a pricing component that needs to be considered - I'm sure there are situations where the doc fee is negotiable - and if it's not - revert to Brian's method and try to compensate for it. I think that considering doc fees as one of those things that can't be changed and lumping them with the mandated fees is probably what the auto dealers would like to see happen.

    Bill G
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • When I bought my last car in 2010, after negotiating the price of the car, the salesman could not clearly articulate to me what the doc fees were for. I told him I could "see" the car, I could "see" the tags on the car, I can "see" the title for the car, and I know taxes are a given ... show me the $399 worth of "documents" for which I am asked to pay this fee, and obviously he couldn't, rather he just said they have to charge it to each customer or it wouldn't be fair. I was a cash buyer for an Infiniti, so I told him to eat that fee or the price we negotiated would be reduced by that amount, otherwise I was walking away, and they did reduce the car price that extra amount.
  • Can I do better than 26899 on v6 coupe right now 2013.? No nav. Flex after . I want this car but think I can do better than this. Am I being unrealistic?
  • graphicguygraphicguy Edmunds Poster EmeritusPosts: 11,592
    As isellhondas alluded to, this sounds like a used car with 4K miles. Someone took a big depreciation hit by trarding in what essentially is a new car.

    I would think that would end up being a bargain compared to a new Honda, same model and options.

    Seeing doc fees mentioned quite a bit. NO STATE requires a dealership charge a doc fee. Yes, there are fees to register, license your vehicle and to get plates. But, filing the paperwork for those items is something the dealership chooses to charge for.

    Personally, I figure up my offer, including taxes, registration and license fees (varies by state and municipality, but easy enough to find) and make one offfer..."all in". I explain my offer to the dealer. If we get to the F&I office and they add in doc fees. I walk. My offers are literally..."ALL IN"!

    It's up to the dealer how they divy up my offer into their different fee and pricing categoires. I don't really care how they do it, as long as the final, all in number is equal to my offer.
    2018 Acura TLX 3.5 SH AWD A-SPEC
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 699
    Now that's what I'm talking about (and I'm sure what Brian is saying). Way to go Jennifer. I thought you said you were a rookie (ha ha).

    Bill
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 699
    Totally agree with everything you said.

    Bill
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • Thats a rather great deal! I would try to get 26,500, are you eligible for college or military discount? When I bought mine a few days ago (Sport Sedan) I had them throw in free/discounted accessories and a really great discount on the extended warranty 7yrs/100,000 if you plan to keep if forever like I am. Haha
    Are you in Souhtern California by any chance?
  • how much did they charged you for extended warranty? I am looking for Sport model in southern CA
  • Here is my buying experience for my new 2013 Honda Accord Sport. I purchased my vehicle on Labor Day and did research for about 2 months on the message board. What I found out is that buying at the end of the month did make a difference.

    We tried to buy the Accord at the dealer closest to my home. The dealer had a ton of Accords available and I made it clear that I was educated on the current prices of the Accord and my trade-in. I told them if you sell me the car for my numbers provided I'll buy on the spot. The dealer worked up the paper work and wanted me to pay $27,500 with leather seats, tinted windows and all weather floor mats installed. I told them that they were $3,000 over what I was willing to pay and what people were getting on the message boards. They didn't care and let me walk out without even counter offering. I've never had this happen before and I was upfront and polite with them.

    I then emailed two other dealers and both those dealers were willing to work with me on the price. I told them they had to be at $24,500 with leather seats, tinted windows and all weather floor mats installed. Both dealers would do the deal and I got my car on Labor Day. I asked the dealer who sold me the car why the other dealer would not sell me the car at this price. He stated that his dealership needed to sell 20 cars before the end of the month and the other dealer probably sold all the cars they needed to sell already. He stated that why sell you the car when someone else would be willing to buy it for more. He also told me that walking into a dealer and not dealing with the internet sales manager makes a big difference in negotiating.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 699
    Congrats on your new accord. Could you explain in more detail how not working with the Internet Manager makes a big difference? Your statement in somewhat general and could have a number of different interpretations.

    Thanks, Bill G
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • gotojanoo,

    Are you able to send me a private message? I can text you all the info you need and where to buy. I can also call 2 individuals from Palmdale and Van Nuys to hook it up.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    Doc fees never existed in most areas until the "Smart Shoppers" started squeezing every last nickel out of the deals.

    The stores HAVE to make a profit, like ANY retail establishment and this is why they do this.

    No free lunch out there.
  • The dealer I bought my Accord from, the Internet sales people are not actual employees of the dealership. They are like contractors or independent sales people that are allowed to make different deals than the sales guy that work at the dealer. He said even at his dealership that I probably would not of gotten that same deal I did if I had walked up. He is able to make a better deals than the sales guys. I don't know if that is the same at all dealerships because the one that let me walk away was not willing to deal online either. I decided to go to the showroom after making little progress online with them but outcome didn't change.

    I would email all the dealers in your area because they all operate differently and have different standards. The St Louis area had 7 dealerships and the ones willing to deal were located in a real wealthy area and a lower income area. The biggest dealers that are located in the middle class areas were not in a hurry to sell.
  • I stopped by Honda of New Rochelle this was the lease offer given to me:

    2013 Honda Accord Sedan EX-L

    $300 per month, 2075 (includes 1st month) due at signing plus DMV fees. I will be checking other places.

    Car valued at 25, 500
  • MichaellMichaell ColoradoPosts: 130,244
    As I understand it, some states cap doc or dealer fees (CA and NY for example). Others don't - I live in CO and I've seen fees as high as $699.

    Your mileage may vary - but, it's the overall deal we need to focus on, not just one line item.

    Different points of view are always welcome, but let's not monopolize the discussion.

    Seems to me that good prices are out there for both 2013 & 2014 Accords based on recent posts. Keep those stories coming!

    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and let us know! Post a pic of your new purchase or lease!


    MODERATOR

    2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4

  • Hi, I'm new to this site. Hello and thank you for your help!

    I bought a new Ex-L 4 cylinder pearl white accord with leather (no navi) today....Not sure if I got a good deal?

    Honda dealership is a no haggle dealership, meaning a fixed price only. They had the pearl white sedan EX-L I've been wanting 'on sale' for 25,882.00 + 699.00 dealer fee.

    Did I do okay or not. I'm in Fl. Any thoughts. Thank you.
  • MSRP for that is $28.8k and invoice $26.4k, so in my opinion sounds like a great deal! =)
  • Geez, thank you so much because I didn't do any research first which is so unlike me. I bought my last Accord (V-6 with leather) in 2003 and remembered the final price was over 26,000.00

    It was such a dream to own I ONLY wanted another Accord.

    Thank you so much for saying I did okay! I know the 699.00 dealer price was a little high.

    The only 'extra' I bought was the black mat for the trunk. It just made sense to me.

    I put 11,000.00 down, and took the .9 36 month finance option. Seemed like a good idea.

    This dealership does NOT deal, so I wondered if I did okay! Thank you so much.
  • Sorry I just saw yr reply. Finally I pulled trigger for 2013 accord sport 23500 OTD. Is it good deal?
  • Haha it's ok! Matters is that you have one! =)
    What dealer did you buy from? Which color did you get? Congrats!

    Could've got for another $1,000.00 less but it's all good. Did you add extended warranty or any accessories/options?
  • gotojanoogotojanoo Posts: 9
    edited September 2013
    Grey color. Hardin , anaheim. I got 7 year 100k warranty.is it good price? No accessory. Just security system.
  • By the way, you made my day. I have a new Accord in the garage, but honestly thank you for telling me I did okay on the price! Am so appreciative.
  • Ummmm yes!!! We almost got the same pricing. ;-)

    Any mods you plan to do in the near future?
  • Your very welcome! I must say if I didn't like the Sport trim I would've been happy with the price quote you received for the EX-L... Kinda jealous! Haha
  • I have to laugh because I don't know what you mean by sports trim. I know that sounds stupid. (My husband drove MY new Accord home.)

    It's leather, has the adjustable seats, steering wheel, heated seats...What exactly does sports trim include.

    I just liked the car. It was that simple.

    I tried driving a hybrid Camry and it felt and looked like driving a refrigerator. That was my only research.

    Honestly, what exactly is meant by sports trim. Just Googled it, and I'm not too clear.

    Still sincerely, you really made my day! Am so happy with the white pearl color, the leather, and it's so much roomier than my old Accord.

    Bought NO extra warranties. Considered the 'wheel' one, because I've had an incident or two, but love the beep beep beep when you get too close to 'something'.

    I should have done this BEFORE buying, but was just 'ready',

    BTW, dealership gives 5 days to return the car if you feel you made a mistake or didn't get a good price, etc...Thought that was cool!

    Thanks again Sparkndutch!
  • Haha pretty much my Sport is like 2 trim levels below yours. Goes like this:
    LX
    Sport
    EX
    EX-L
    EX-L w/Navi
    EX-L V6
    EX-L V6 w/Navi
    Touring

    I like the EX-L a lot, but got a great deal for my Sport and couldn't turn it down. It was pretty low that I'm sure the General Managers were hating me for such a disgusting deal lol
    Congrats on your new Accord btw! Glad to hear I was one of many new owners this week alone!
  • So tell me about the benefits of sport trim! I'd love to know. So you got a 2013 sport accord with what that you love and for how much? I'ld enjoy hearing. Btw, my husband said to me tonight, 'Do you want to sit in your new car?'

    I laughed. No, I don't.
  • sparkndutchsparkndutch Posts: 31
    edited September 2013
    What I love about my Accord Sport is comes with fog lights, rear lip spoiler, 18 inch sports wheels, dual chrome exhaust, sport fabric seats, red interior sport lights also a little bit faster engine compare to the regular 4cyl engine. Compare to your EX-L, mine doesn't have leather, push button start, dual screens (mine only has 1), LaneWatch, Sunroof, LED brake lights, upgraded sound system and a few other things I'm sure I forgot to mention. Which all above is nice to have but it's my first financed vehicle (25 yrs old college student) and wanted to stay under $26k, I was able to purchase the vehicle 22k out the door + 1.5k for extended 7yrs/100,000 mile warranty.
  • Great message. All the things you need and like are the the things I'm no longer wanting. Cool. Good on you for getting what you want.

    What did you pay for that warranty?

    My father was a judge and a lawyer. Very wise. He had a saying. "Insurance is betting against yourself' That never left me. So I never buy ANY extended warranty.

    I LOVE leather in a car. Important to me. Will miss my V6 on the interstate but the 2013 Accord 'feels' big and fairly heavy. Not BMW, Mercedes heavy, but it's worthy. NOT like a toyota.

    Back to your warranty....What did that cost you?
  • Bought it for $1,500.00. I do plan to keep this car for 10+ years.
    I dont think it's too heavy, I have about 150 miles now and 100 of them were freeway driving and I was happy to be speeding and zipping my way around other cars. Nice to have no plates as people stare and admire my car haha
  • Thanks for reply. No, I'm in Ga. Haven't bought yet but this week is my goal to buy if I get what I want at right price. I like your idea about accessories! What did you get added? What kind of deal did you get on extended warr? I have been driving my 03 accord for 10 years. I love my car. It's got nearly 200k on it and its going to my teen. This dealer has been the only one that has been great to work with.
  • Also...idk if retired military counts. Think only active duty .
  • My extended warranty saga has come to end. Quick recap from previous posts. Sharing so someone doesn't make the same mistake.

    I purchased the 2013, EX-L, 4cyl and paid $985 (down from $1770! )for 7yr/80k/$100 ded. Asked the F&I guy specifically, "I have up to 6k miles to make a decision to get the new warranty". He said no. I purchased it based on that info.

    Days later realized I could have purchased it for much cheaper ($570) at http://hyannishondacare.com/plans.php Problem was I lost on that low price because I had already purchased the warranty If I wanted to purchase from Hyannis I had to pay $165 extra since it was not the first warranty purchase (this is a honda rule).

    So I knew I was going to cancel with the original dealer.

    Saw the F&I guy yesterday, he knew I was coming in to cancel because it was too expensive. First thing he says is "$985 is too much?" like somehow he gave me some super great deal. I take out my internet quote. But I also said, the price is one thing, but really what I'm upset about is that I asked specifically about having 6k miles to purchase the warranty as a "New warranty" and he said No...and that misinformation made me buy it. He thanked me for schooling him as he did not know that. I gave him the benefit of the doubt and said everyone mispeaks, I just made a decision based on that.

    So he ended up matching the internet price. I said ok, but I was still upset at being misled. I asked for some free accessories but got 2 oil changes. So net, I paid less than $500 for the warranty.

    I told him we are all good. They will get 5's on the survey And I can still recommend them.

    Lessons learned:

    1. Know BEFORE you buy (price of car, warranty, if you even want the warranty..lots of posts about pros and cons, etc)

    2. If you overpaid for the warranty, there are some things you can do to mitigate the financial mistake

    3 I can be bought for free oil changes
  • Sparkndutch - I hate to tell you this, but you overpaid for your extended warranty. $1500 is high.

    See my post #31109 for what happened to me and what I did to recover from my mistake of overpaying for the warranty.
  • Oh nice! The accessories I got was called "pro pack" splash guards, wheels locks, trunk (rubber) tray, door edge film (has a small clear film on all door edges and trunk to prevent from scratches). It was already added on my 2013 Accord Sports and I negotiated to give me at least 50% off total price. Which they did =)

    I must say I really like the trunk tray. Went to the store bought a few items, placed them in the trunk and nothing was moving around and was afraid the pizza I bought was going to spill greasy oil all over the place and was nicely secured in its corner. (Was by myself and didn't want the interior to smell of food)

    The Splash Guards (all 4 were installed) was something I was never considering adding but let me tell you... I'm so freaking glad it came with it! Washed and waxed my car yesterday and noticed that the guards had some nasty little rocks and dirt and I was surprised since I've only driven 155 miles now and 100 of them were freeway here in Los Angeles, was easy to wash off and good thing the rocks/dirt didn't do any damage to my paint, so this is a must get it!

    The wheels locks are pretty self explained and the film is a neat thing incase I ever hit the door with any object but I'm usually careful when opening my doors but have had times I have ding something and would freak out if scratched my door on my civic lol (which is my daily drive with 202,500 miles)
  • I just read it, oh well! I'm so happy with my car that I'm ok with it. Guess I will know the next time, thanks though!
  • sparkndutchsparkndutch Posts: 31
    edited September 2013
    Yes, if you are within 6 months of your separation, you qualify. Just need to show them a copy of your last LES and Retired Military ID. The catch is, you must ONLY qualify through Honda Financial Services. Trust me, they were giving me a outstanding discount on the car as a recent Marine Corps Veteran but weren't able to offer me the additional $500 w/o financing through Honda (I asked to read the fine print and I understood), which I ended up doing anyways since my bank was being a pain in the butt. Hehe
  • I was charged 600 bucks for security system and 1400 bucks for 7/100K warranty. Is security charge is fare or its comes with it?
  • sparkndutchsparkndutch Posts: 31
    edited September 2013
    lol what??? No that's silly, it should already have security alarm unless its an add on that the dealer added on. If its an add on, have them remove it. You'll save $600!! =)

    Oh wait you already purchased it right? =(
  • gotojanoogotojanoo Posts: 9
    edited September 2013
    They says its package that they offer security( Karr or something) and 1400 for warranty.Yes I did purchased it
  • sparkndutchsparkndutch Posts: 31
    edited September 2013
    I think they were trying to sell me that but I declined and had them remove it, the regular security system was adequate.
  • Michael, I think it is important to clarify. People make use of this forum to help get the best price and understanding the concept of pricing is imperative. When I was a grad assistant I taught introductory accounting so please let me provide the following example to the viewers of this forum.

    Joe and Jim are brothers living together in Manhattan. They each want their own 2014 Honda Accord and they decide to have a contest on who can get the best deal for the car which happens to have an invoice price including destination of $25,000, the loser has to do the dishes for a month. They have friends all throughout the U.S. and they tell their friends if they pick up the car for them and drive it to Manhattan and pay for the gas, they can stay for free in their spare bedroom while in NY. Meanwhile, their mother is so happy they decided on a dependable Accord, she says she will pay the sales tax and TTL. Therefore, the only thing that matters is what they pay the dealer. They set a 5:00 deadline to find and negotiate their deals.

    Joe finds a deal for $1,000 under invoice. Jim finds one for $575 under invoice. They both post the results in the Prices Paid forum at 5:01 pm.
    A minute late, Joe sees a post by fxguy congratulating him on getting $1,000 under invoice on a 2014. After all, he recently congratulated someone for getting $700+ off. No one congratulates Jim.

    Someone then posts that they would like to see all the details of the deals. Joe posts that he is paying $24,000 for the car and has a doc fee of $800. Jim posts that he is paying $24,425 for the car but his doc fee is only $75. After seeing that Jim paid the dealer $500 under invoice, Brian writes a congratulatory post to Jim on getting $500 under invoice on a 2014 at this time of year.

    Would you rather pay the dealer $24,800 ($24,000 + $800) and get an attaboy from fxguy or pay $24,500 ($24,425 + $75) and get an attaboy from Brian?

    Bottom line:

    X(sales price) + Y(doc fees) = Z(Cash Paid).
    You want to minimize Z, that’s the only objective. Assuming the dealers are selling similar numbers of cars, their price to acquire the car is the same and they can afford to sell the cars at the same price. Why should a dealer in a state with typically higher doc fees deserve to make more when selling a car?

    If I was a dealer, I would prefer to be in a high doc fee location. Why? Because I can always lower the sales price to make a deal with a savvy buyer who is shopping based on total paid to the dealer while for those like fxguy, I can make a deal on what looks like a good price on the car and then collect an additional large doc fee for additional profit.

    Actually, I bet fxguy is a smart guy and that over the years fxguy has been negotiating based on total price but has done a poor job articulating what he is actually doing.
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