2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,240
    edited December 2013


    you are no longer uneducated. Being in these forums and reading posts will put you in the position to make the best possible deal in your area. Just cause your area is not bearing some of the better pricing like in other states does not mean you cant get the best price in your state. Use the info and tips on buying to help you get the lowest possible price. Once you identify your area's pricing you make your best deal at month end . Every state will be better or worst than others with pricing. The more dealerships you get involved and further you extend your search the better you will do.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • Glen

    I bought LX for 20100 including doc fee and destination charge. Total came up to ~= 22,250 - 500 for recent graduate bonus. I could get only 3.9% APR which costs 860 in financing. Because of $500 discount, honda financing turned out cheaper than other external options. I got the red color I wanted. Happy with the purchase. Thanks to forum members for sharing info.

  • @flatfeet
    NC prices were a good bit higher. I used to live down there - I could call it "the triangle" if you prefer.

    Leith in Raleigh was at 28,500 for the car (28,000 including flex cash). Auto Park in Cary quoted 28,000 for the car but that did not include "fees." Crown in Durham was at 28,700 for the car. I reached out to Sanford Honda, which I think was mentioned in this forum a few months ago, but no reply.

  • Thanks agin Veers and Brian. You guys are great. I have sent a few emails out, but plan my larger blast for later today. Do you suggest trying to get a quote or two in other markets from where I am planning to buy to use as leverage, or would local dealers just ignore that data? Also, when speaking to dealerships to get the lowest price, do you simply tell them about your current lowest quote or do you send them something you have received in writing? I received a quote from one dealership and they said they would beat any other deal but only if I could show them something in writing (I love how they all want someone else to do the work so they can reap the benefits).

    Finally, how do I go about setting my target price if the dealership hasn't answered my flex question? If they have it, will they just give it to me or am I going to have to fight with them about it because they will want to keep it for an incentive for another buyer?

    Thanks a million.

  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,240
    edited December 2013


    Call each dealerships Internet dept. Try to deal only with the Internet manager if possible.. If he or she is to busy work with the Internet dept team to start your negotiations. BUT....
    Before you start negotiations with model and price ask each dealership do you have flex cash to offer yes or no. On a financed 2014 model... If any dealership cant answer that first question there is no need to proceed in any way........... or give them your business. move on to the next dealership. I'm not sure if i know what state your buying in. if you told me i apologize i have been flooded with help me im's this past 3 days.

    If your in NY stay away from plaza, paragon, hillside honda

    Try....... Friendly , Yonkers , New Rochelle, Bay Ridge

    There are 12 honda dealers on LI google them and call.. Atlantic and Huntington may pay dividends on the 30th or 31st.

    NJ try Auto-sport, paul miller, joyce, dch paramus, hamilton, dch oldbridge, Madison

    stay away from in NJ.. play to many games

    Open road

    rt22 honda



    what target price are you figuring on starting with????

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • carbuyer209carbuyer209 Posts: 26
    edited December 2013


    thanks again. Yes, I am in NY about an hour or so north of the city. LI wouldn't be my first preference to buy, but I would definitely consider it if better prices are there. NJ and CT are more convenient for me.

    FYI, I already contacted a couple of the dealers you said to avoid and noticed immediately that they were going to try to play games, so I cut it off. Rte 22 has now gone to a "no haggle," "our one best price" policy." Needless to say their one best price isn't great.

    I had been thinking, assuming no flex cash, of a target of around $27,250 including destination fee and doc. fee, but it sounds like that may be a little ambitious for this area as it would put me at around the same price as vabeach ($26,750) if flex were available. I am also assuming that I will be able to get the 0.9% 3 year financing, otherwise I will likely not finance through Honda -- certainly not without flex.

    I do want to get the best price I can, but I don't want to be unreasonable and there are some intangibles, like buying a little closer to home, that is worth a little something to me (but not a lot). Do you think my target is reasonable or have another suggestion?

    In a prior post you had mentioned contacting dealers even if they didn't have the specific car color I preferred, in order to get at a best price. That makes sense, but what happens if they say they will meet my target??

    I also assume that I am most likely to get the best price now at year end and that there would be no benefit to waiting until end of January or February, so that if I can't reach my target I should simply adjust my expectations.

  • PAcarbuyer3 - Thanks for the reply

    • Brian 125, Veers, VAbeach -and all posters of the forum
    • Thanks so much for clearly stating what a good price should be
    • I was misreading the different posts and thought I needed to be lower than the quotes I was receiving.. I'm close to my target..... I'll let you know what happens.
  • veersveers Posts: 81

    carbuyer.... $27,250 may be doable this month. I wouldn't ask dealerships if they have the $500 flex cash available, they usually do, and will let you know if they don't. Just say something like I'm willing to finance through Honda at 0.9% to get the $500 flex cash.

    Your best bets are Autosport(NJ), Huntington(NY), Atlantic(NY) Schaller (CT) and Hoffman (CT). Reach out to all of them ASAP, ask for a quote, all but Huntington should give you one. Then immediately counteroffer by e-mail with your $27,250 number, and make sure it includes vehicle, destination, doc fee, $500 flex cash, and any accessories. Make sure to say you will BUY TODAY at that price. If you want you can even add tax and TTL and give an OTD price. Tell them your offer is good until the end of the month. On the morning of the 31st call up all 5 places and try to get the internet manager on the phone. Pitch your $27,250 number, tell them it will help them with their $3k incentive, etc.... You can also reach out to New Rochelle Honda and Honda City. Most of the other dealers are useless, especially in NJ. Many had internet salesmen who could not speak english properly, and spent all day telling me how $27,500 was an impossible number they would lose money at - lol!

  • Veers, thanks. I greatly appreciate the advice. Would you suggest initially reaching out by phone or email. Let the games begin! Lol

  • glenglen Posts: 17


    You got a sweet deal.

    A younger guy back in the day couldn't get a deal like that. With proper maintenance that car will last a very long time and it's one of the cheapest to insure. I dropped the wife's Mustang from full coverage to liability when I got her the Accord and that change alone paid for the full coverage on the Accord. You spent your money wisely. Enjoy!

  • veersveers Posts: 81

    I would do e-mail first to get their initial quote in writing (I generally just find the car I like in new inventory and fill out the request a quote form, leaving my e-mail and phone number). They will usually send you an e-mail quote and then call you within a few minutes. I would then let them know my target price, and when they balk at it ask them to run it by the internet manager. If they can't do business tell them you will reach out to them by phone on the morning of the 31st to get their best end of the month price. Your goal is to get the internet manager on the phone, he is the one who can go below their standard minimum price and approve the deal.

  • hotshot187hotshot187 Posts: 4
    edited December 2013

    Hey Brian I live in the upstate NY area and I am looking to purchase a 2014 honda accord EX cvt and the price quotes I am getting back don't seem that great. How can I get them down a little bit. Here is a copy of a price quote that i was given.

    The 2014 Honda Accord EX Sedan with CVT has an MSRP of $26,470.00, which includes the destination charge of $790. According to Kelley Blue Book, the Fair Purchase Price for this vehicle is $24,331.00. Our internet sale price for the 2014 Honda Accord EX is $24,188.00 plus sales tax and DMV related charges (approximately $250). Honda is also continuing to offer special financing on the '14 Accord , with 0.9% available for terms up to 36 months and 1.9% for terms of 37 to 60 months, with approved credit. This is a special Year-End Clearance Price - you must take delivery by close of business Tuesday, December 31, 2013, to take advantage of this great price. And, we have the color you're looking for in stock.

  • Hi again.

    I read back (would love a step by step guide to negotiating or maybe private time with Brian lol) and really appreciate all the tips from the folks here. I got a great deal on my Lexus two years ago with the forum's help. It seems Honda is even harder to get decent prices. I am not financing so it should be a quick thing but it's not. I'm trying to reach internet managers but most of the dealers in Westchester, NY and lower Fairfield County, CT either don't have internet sales anymore or do not respond.

    We also need to decide on which engine to get. I want the 6 and hubby wants the 4 but his old (1998) 4 was not a CVT. After reading more posts I discovered that some of you have problems with the cars jerking. Not sure which engine that is. I find this problem with my Mom's 2011 6 cyl EXL Accord. I see some of you do not like the CVT transmission in the 4 cyl. We live in the back country so there are lots of hills especially our driveway lol. Any thoughts as to which I should zero in. It's hard to negotiate on two cars and then not be sure which to pull the trigger on. It needs to be an EX-L with Nav. Which engine??

    Again thanks in advance for all your kind help. The forum is the best and the mods are so knowledgeable I am sure the dealers hate y'all.


  • lil_owllil_owl So-CalPosts: 47
    edited December 2013

    @brian125 @veers and all of our other wise experts

    Do any of you have any advice on what to do when you have an agreement in writing (via email) and you go to the dealership and it is not honored? When that occurred we just left. Is there any other recourse other than leaving? Is there any way to prevent that from happening again? We wasted 5 hours of time going to a dealership where we thought we had a deal with both a price for the car and our out the door price and apparently it was valueless. :(

  • veersveers Posts: 81

    I would suggest always getting a sales manager to approve the deal before coming in. Generally a phone call is enough for this. Usually the salesman e-mail will have some disclaimer that it is not binding, etc... Only real recourse is to make threats - I will come back with my lawyer, I will post negative reviews on dealer rater, yelp, etc.... Dealerships today are not really consumer friendly, and may not care. Your best bet may be to get in touch with the general sales manager and complain about the treatment, he may be willing to make you whole.

    Good luck!

  • lil_owllil_owl So-CalPosts: 47
    Thank you. I thought I was dealing with the Internet sales manager, but I obviously was not. (I did mention I was going to post negative reviews -they didn't care- perhaps they will care when the read the 6 exceptionally poor yet very detailed reviews I left on sites such as Yelp, Google, Edmunds etc).
  • The Accord CVT is much superior to Nissan's in my opinion. In fact if you get an accord model with the paddle shifters (sport, coupe ex-l) you could fool yourself into believing its a regular tranny. Honda is still master of the 4 cylinder, I would have no qualms about their cvt even if there was some hesitation at lower speeds its a software adjustment...

    Meanwhile, in NorCal places like Andeson are emailing offers of 21988 for an Accord Sport including flex, so you know you can get that down another 2-300 or so...
  • rms13rms13 Posts: 4

    Got Honda Accord 2014 LX model (Silver ext., Gray int.) from AutoSport NJ yesterday. Here is the breakdown,

    Vehicle 20052.15 (including destination fees)
    Documentation 299
    Sales tax(7%) 1403.65
    Registration 303.7

    NJ Tire Fee 7.5

    Out The Door 22,066.0

    This is after I financed with Honda for 60 months at 1.9 APR.

    This was the final quote I got from AutoSport Honda couple of days back, when I tried negotiating with this number with other dealers, DCH Academy, Honda of Princeton and few others, they said this price cannot be true and the dealer is tricking you and further said they'll try to add another $500-900 for accessories after you go there (none of them were ready to give for anything less than 23,000). So couldn't negotiate any further.

    When I went to Autosport yesterday their sales person (Justin) tried telling me the price is 22,275$ but I showed them the mail correspondence, he went in spoke to the Internet Sales person (George) with whom I was negotiating via email and finally agreed on this price. Sales manger tried to sell Gap insurance and other extended warranty, I politely declined. In the end agreed for $22,066 with no down payment and got home the car.

    Thanks veers and Brain for the advice.

  • veersveers Posts: 81

    $1270 under invoice, that is a good deal for NJ. Congrats!

  • finisfinis Posts: 6

    To get the flex cash from financing, how much does the loan have to be for & for how long is it required you make payments? I keep thinking there is a hidden clause that stipulates if you don't pay it for a certain period, you forfeit the $500.

  • veersveers Posts: 81

    I believe that honda requires you to finance at least $7500, and you can pay it off in full after the first month, but I would suggest reading the financing terms.

  • carbuyer209carbuyer209 Posts: 26
    edited December 2013

    Well, lots of dealerships are closed today, but so far the best deal I have received (in NY) is about $900 under invoice and that includes flex (so $400 under invoice). Inventory isn't very high at many dealers, so I don't know how low they might be willing to go. Maybe I'll be waiting for 2015s. LOL

  • Thanks zigster for the info on the CVT. Was worried about newer technology.

    Now I have another question about negotiating for y'all.

    We just got home from re-test driving the two engines in the Accord EXL. Hubby referred the 4 cyl as he saw very little difference with them in power and ride. I may like the 6 better but I have my SUV so why not let him be happy and with more dollars in his pocket. For $1900 less and less gas prices that's the one he settled on. It was 10 minutes to closing so I told the sales guy to hit me with his best shot. Of course he made his trip to the manager, who we knew. He came back with a price of $500 OVER invoice. The other two dealers we visited a few days ago came in about $800 - $1,000 over invoice. Well he asked me to tell him what I wanted to pay for the car and I told him I would tell him tomorrow figuring there was no real time left to negotiate and the manager had left already. In reality I froze and didn't know what to counter with. I think if I come in with a price $1500 UNDER invoice when we are so far apart he will laugh me out of town.

    I need some guidance as to how to go from here. The car is the EXL 4 cyl with Nav. Where should I be and how do I get there? Most of these dealers do not seem to have internet managers anymore. I am sure they are not giving me their best because they either want to see if I will cave and pay more or want me to bid against myself. And going really far for the car isn't really an option for us. Prices are from Westchester, NY and lower Fairfield County, CT. There are differences in fees. Cheaper transfer registration fees in CT as my plates are from there with other dopey fees like vin etching and NY has higher reg transfer fees and other doc fees. Why can't they just read the forum and know how much they need to charge us?? lol

    Thanks again,

  • veersveers Posts: 81


    find the new car you want in online inventory and e-mail for a price quote from - new rochelle honda, huntington honda, north shore honda, schaller honda, hoffman honda, autosport honda.

    You definitely should be able to get $1000 under invoice (including destination, doc fees, and $500 flex cash).

    If you are willing to travel, do the same with MD and VA dealers - pohanka honda, criswell honda, hendrick honda, and landmark honda.

    All these dealerships have good internet departments.

  • albert72albert72 Posts: 200

    OK, finally getting close and with two bus days left in '13, I think it may be possible to get a good deal so I would like some thoughts on pricing and thanks in advance for your time:

    2014 EXL - No Nav: MSRP w/destination $31,135. Dealer Invoice W destination $28543. Is $26,000 + Tax out the door possible? By $26,000 I mean car, plates, registration, temp license plate etc. I know there is the $3,000 incentive $$ for Dec sales above 2012 unit volume (incentive capped at max of 20% of Dec '12 volume).

    Second Question: I see some demonstrator and low mileage 2012 V6 EXL sedans (No Nav) and am trying to get an idea what those should go for. MSRP w/Destination was about $31,000. For the right price, this would be a nice car too but my right price would be around $20,500 (assuming mileage is under 6,000). Any thoughts on this? If the car has NOT been titled, I assume it would count as a new car sale. Also, even if it is a used car, do dealers want to move used cars before the end of the year as much as they want to sell new cars?

  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,240
    edited December 2013

    Suply and demand.. Get as many dealership involved on the 30th and 31st. That is your best buying leverage to finding lowest dealer price.

    I plan on buying 2 vehicle tomm late afternoon. I did my dealership homework with incentives and have a list of every dealerships managers phone number and email. My target price is set. Tomm i let this system we talk about go to work. Like veers touched on any deal i make thats not within a very short drive i have each dealership fax me a buyers order or put something in writing to cover my [non-permissible content removed].

    How I buy vehicles you may never get to that level. I buy my vehicles just like what we talk about in this forum.. Contacting dealerships buying only the last 2 days, last day of the month.... . There are several posters in this honda forum who will give you very good solid advice on how to buy. Take this advice and use it to your advantage. Buy how you feel most comfortable. By having a general ideal of a high end and low end of a good target price is how you know you made a good deal.. Thats why we are all in this forum.. Nobody is getting the wool pulled over there eyes.

    RMS13... You did a great job... read your post... Was there flex cash..at Auto-sport?.

    If your buying and wait til tomm or the 31th trust me when i say Auto sport may have gone lower. George over there is a good ngotiator and i find dealing with him right at the end pays better dividends price wise. The only problem with NJ is there high doc fee's.

    If you guys remember last year end of dec what dealerships sold at 1000 below invoice.


    New Rochelle


    there were 2 dealers in MD also..

    Pricing was very tight last year nobody wanted to sell anywhere close to that 1k mark. Most dealers were below invoice to 500 plus paying there doc fee charge..

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 975
    edited December 2013


    Let me see if I can provide some advice. If you are looking to purchase a 2014 EX-L V6 without navigation, your target price of $26,000 sounds unreasonable. That is more than $2500 below invoice price. It is not going to happen.

    Anyone reading this post should not factor in the so-called $3k incentives Honda is offering to some dealers to meet their end of year sales quota, when trying to negotiate a good deal. Right now, anything between $800 to $1500 below invoice plus incentives is do-able. Does it mean, anyone would get that price? Of course not. As Brian has said on numerous occasions, pricing is based on several factors such as:

    1. Location (which affects market pricing)
    2. Inventory
    3. Time of the year
    4. Negotiation tactics

    I live in MA, and pricing is similar to the NY and NJ area. I bought my 2013 Accord Ex-L without nav in early September at a great price. I read a lot of info on this forum on how to go about negotiating and getting the best deal.

    My advice would be to use some of the tactics and tricks discussed in this forum by contacting as many dealers in a 50 or 100 mile radius (it all depends on how far you are prepared to travel) asap. When requesting internet quotes, here is the info you are looking for:

    1. Sales price of the car including the destination fee (but not including any incentives)
    2. Dealer doc fees and registration fees
    3. Incentives such as flex cash
    4. Availability of the car in your color combination

    If some dealers are asking you to come in for the best price, let them know that you are only going to come into the dealership once you have agreed on a sales price. If they start playing games, move on to the next dealership. Do not bother wasting your time. If some dealers do not provide all the required info, such as not telling you whether they have flex cash or not, pick up the phone and call them and request the info.

    After receiving complete offers from various dealers, you can focus on the ones with the best prices and counter offer with a BUY TODAY price that is reasonable.

    You have two more days to go to make your best deal.

    Good luck and let us know how things go.

    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • @Glen

    Thank you for the kind words. I got insurance for around 660 for full coverage for 100/300. I m in 30s, finishing masters and starting fresh now, have wife and baby, want to maximize the savings in purchase. This is my first car, have to maintain it well, never use that, so have to learn more about cars.

  • albert72albert72 Posts: 200

    Thanks Brian and Blue. I appreciate the info. Assuming the dealer has used up their $3,000 bonus money from Honda, what is their incentive to sell a car at a price that is below their invoice and holdback? I had heard some gossip that Honda does have some type of stairstep dealer program in place but have not been able to verify.

    Also, on a 2012 unit that has never been titled, am I correct that selling this unit would count toward their 2013 new car unit sales?

  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,240
    edited December 2013

    There are other Incentives dealer are trying to meet prior to end of the year. This 3000 dollar incentive is being used not exclusively for lowereing sale price.

    Dealers are using some of this money for

    TV and Radio AD's ,, helping more people get Financing, Internet and digital; design, etc

    So when you break down this money most dealers will give you a taste of this money.. thats it..

    If i was wrong you would see folks buying for 2000 below invoice straight up

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,240


    Very good sound advice. Please post your 3 top dealers in MA that your Recommend.

    I like........................ Weymouth, Herb Chambers I know when you purchaese your accord the dealers you used seem to have better pricing..

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • lil_owllil_owl So-CalPosts: 47
    @brian125 @bluemnk57cars

    I thoroughly enjoy reading your posts! I am hoping to secure my deal tomorrow. It has been quite frustrating because I did have one deal in writing and it was not honored at the dealership. I have had others say they have a price match guarantee then when I send them the "un-honored" quote they refuse to match!
  • ATTN: @ vabeach3

    Thanks for the reply. I've found it tough to deal w/ those that you mentioned. Was Leith's and Crown's OTD (out-the-door) price?

    As a native, the "Triangle' suits me! Would love to end the erroneous belief that many think Raleigh-Durham is a city. Until they change the airport name, that'll be a difficult task! Thanks, again, for your information!!

    @vabeach3 said:
    NC prices were a good bit higher. I used to live down there - I could call it "the triangle" if you prefer.

    Leith in Raleigh was at 28,500 for the car (28,000 including flex cash). Auto Park in Cary quoted 28,000 for the car but that did not include "fees." Crown in Durham was at 28,700 for the car. I reached out to Sanford Honda, which I think was mentioned in this forum a few months ago, but no reply.

  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 975
    edited December 2013


    Assuming the dealer has used up their $3,000 bonus money from Honda, what is their incentive to sell a car at a price that is below their invoice and holdback?

    Dealers are in the business of making money, so they could sell a car at MSRP or at above invoice price to an uneducated car buyer. I would suggest not thinking too much about any Honda to dealer incentives or dealer holdbacks, but just focus on the sale price of the car.

    Where are you located?

    If you are ready to buy within the next couple of days, you could offer a BUY TODAY price of say $1700 below invoice plus flex cash ($500 incentive for financing through Honda) telling the dealer you will come in that same day if they agree on the deal in writing. If they bulk, put them on the spot and ask for a counter offer price. Again, telling the dealer that you are ready to buy a car TODAY. With this technique, you can figure out a target price dealers are willing to sell you the car for. You might be able to negotiate a price of say $1500 below invoice plus flex cash in your market. Price is based on a lot of factors.

    Make sure to let them know that if they start playing games, you will walk out of their dealership and go to a competitor. If you plan to do that, ALWAYS have a backup dealership.

    With regards to you question about the 2012 models, I have no expertise buying cars that have never been titled.

    I hope my advice will help you strike a great end of year deal.

    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 975


    I would recommend Honda Cars of Boston, where I purchased my car.

    Here are a few other dealerships:

    -Kelly Honda in Lynn
    -Honda North in Danvers
    -Honda Gallery in North Reading

    I would not recommend those three other dealerships, but you might be able to get a good deal.

    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • bluemkn57carsbluemkn57cars Boston, MAPosts: 975


    I feel your pain. Do not get frustrated. Some dealers like to play games. I do not like games. I have walked out of two dealerships who were wasting my time, and outright lied to me. Do not waste your time with dealerships that play games with you. Move on to the next one.
    I would never buy a car from a dishonest dealership, even if they had the lowest price.

    Always make sure that you have one or two backup dealerships.

    2018 Audi A4 P+
    2013 Honda Accord EX-L (Sold)
  • Thanks Veers, Brian and Blue. I emailed to 9 dealerships including the ones y'all suggested. Only two had names for their internet managers so who knows who will respond. It's Sunday night and I hope I get a quick response tomorrow.

    Wow this is stressful. I forgot to do my homework earlier but we couldn't decide on 4 or 6 cyl til now. Will let you know what I get back from these folks. I am going to follow up on the three dealers I visited and just throw a $1500 off invoice number at them and see if they counter. Wish me luck.


  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,240
    edited December 2013


    All dealers that wont go to the 1500 mark this is what you need to to to close your deal.

    make each dealer comitt to a number or you will go round, and round, and make your husband dizzy.............lol

    Dealer # 1 wont go 1500-- you ask dealer number one... I need your best price closest to that 1500 mark to buy right now. WHAT is it?????... If that dealership cant say Ms. diva my dealership can sell you your model for xxx below take it, or leave it. move on your wasting your time. Process of elimination. Good dealerships will give you a price.

    Auto-sport in NJ sold a lx model for 1200 below invoice today minus there 300 doc fee's. thats 900 below invoice ..... this price is in the target price range we talked about in Ny / Nj / CT etc

    Unless you catch that right dealership 1500 below may be impossible. If thats the case make your best offer..

    Make each dealership comitt to a price before hanging up with them.

    Another dealer you ask for 1500 below............ he/ she says my best price is 800. You then counter with i will buy it right know for 1250 below . This is how you negotiate and play the game.. If you walk away from the 800 dollar dealership tomm and they dont call you back that would represent there best price.

    Tomm you could walk away from every dealer not giving you 1500..

    On the 31th you may have to readjust your target price to buy.

    Good Dealerships like..... Auto-sport , Yonkers, New Rochelle will give you a bottom line price..

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • I just purchased the 2014 Accord EXL I4cvt sedan for $24,052.83 +$200 Dealer Processing Charge,Maryland tax,tags and $4 tire recycling fee for a Total of $26,000.
    My significant other is a recent college grad so we received an additional $500 off the amount we financed at 0.9%. If your interested contact Felicia at the Honda dealer in Capital Heights Maryland.
    Thanks to all of you for the advice. As I wrote in my previous post my best OTD price before today was $26,166. Good Luck!

  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,240


    Thanks for posting it will help folks looking to buy in your area. Enjoy your new accord

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • Thanks brian125
    Good Luck tommorrow with your purchases

  • @flatfeet

    Those NC dealer prices were for the car only, not drive-out. The only NC dealer I emailed back and forth several times was Crown, who initially said they would match my Maryland prices and "would not lose a deal over price." Then they came back at 29,896 including Virginia TTL, which was 1,900 over my Maryland prices.

  • carbuyer209carbuyer209 Posts: 26
    edited December 2013

    I'm a bit confused as to how to treat flex cash. I made an offer to a dealer in long island that was about $1500 under invoice before flex. They said there was no way they could match that and said the best they could do was a price that came to essentially $900 under invoice including the flex -- so we were apart by about $1100. When I pushed and said I would call back in a couple of days, they said that was the best they could do (maybe a few dollars). If I look at the deal as $900 under invoice, it doesn't sound so bad for NY, but if I think about it as $400 under I think it is too high given the time of the year and what I am hearing about the market.

    I'm going to keep working at it, but I was wondering how I should view these quotes.

    I'm also beginning to think that $1500 under is just out of the ball park for around here. I get the feeling they aren't taking me seriously even though I tell them I will buy today at that price.

  • Hang in there carbuyer209. I received several comments from dealers like:
    you "Won't get a better price anywhere" and "Your crazy if you think anyone will go that low" but I ended up getting the car that I wanted at the price I wanted.
    Good Luck

  • brian125brian125 New York Posts: 5,240
    edited December 2013


    You are now using your head. 400 below is low but dealer is using flex cash to compensate to 900.. Go buy at Autosport in NJ> your selling price will be ...

    1200 below invoice... then minus his 300 doc fee's your now at 900 below same as LI dealer in a sense.

    What your trying to do here is get as many dealers involved this gives you more opportunity and a chance at better pricing.

    call your 30 dealerships tomm make your best possible deal closest to your home. If you decide on 1 dealer over the next its your choice but the fact of the matter is:

    You made the best possible deal in your area plus you know No dealer was willing to go lower.. stop looking at a 1500 below number to buy could be very slim chance you get it..

    You will achieved your goal finding the best possible price in your AREA..after contacting all your targeted dealerships. Thats how this game is played. Negotiations start on the 30th and ends the 31th.

    This is what I talk about post after post. Your only going to bleed dealers in your area so much. Unless you want to travel outside your area.. Read my posts....There is a reason why for the past 15 years here in Edmunds I tell you all the same things over and over.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2012 MB ML350

  • @wantadeal Thanks for the encouragement.

    @Brian, thanks. At the end of the day I don't expect to get the very lowest priced deal. Given that I keep my cars for some time, a $500 difference doesn't really amount to much on a purchase of this size. You are right. This process helps put me in the driver's seat (pardon the pun) by allowing me to get a sense of the market and then decide what I am willing to pay in relation to travel time etc.

    Tomorrow I guess I'll adjust the target (buy today) price slightly and see if I can get a bottom line from each of the dealers.

    I almost wish that I bought cars more often. The dealerships have the advantage that they do this all day every day. People like me who buy cars infrequently have quite a learning curve. I'm sure I would do better with the next car. LOL

  • veersveers Posts: 81

    carbuyer, I'm pretty sure Huntington would go $1000 under invoice. Get in touch with the internet manager if that is an acceptable price to you. I think the huge savings in MD and northern VA justify a trip there. Enterprise rent a car has cheap airport to airport rentals, and the gas and tolls aren't so bad.

  • Veers, is that $1000 plus flex (so $1500) that you are referring to?

    You're probably right about a trip being justified by the savings in MD, etc., but in addition to the money for the gas/tolls and rental car, there is a price for the time spent as well.

    I used to live in MD. This is just one more added cost for the pleasure of having moved to the NY metro area :-).

  • veersveers Posts: 81

    In NY it's going to be tough to get much better than $1000 including flex or $500 without flex. It seems like people are getting $1800 under including flex in MD, and you may be able to stretch that to $2,000. The total trip cost should not be more than $200 or so, so its a question of if 8 hours of driving is worth $600-$800. It sure is for me.

  • 1da1da Posts: 1


    I've been following this forum for some time now and yesterday we bought a 2014 Honda Accord LX (CVT) Alabaster Silver Metallic with Gray interiors and no extras from Huntington Beach Honda, CA.

    I paid $22,712.00 OTD, financed thro' Honda @1.9%. Pleasant buying experience. Had the price quoted and sent to me by email before I went to the dealership.

    HB tried selling me warranty, gap insurance and a security package but no pressure. I simply said no and that was it.

    I'd highly recommend Tony and Larry who I worked with on my Honda Purchase. A pleasant buying experience indeed.

    Experience with other dealerships:

    Tried a few close to my home in Lake Forest and they, as most dealerships do, said that any lower price than what they offered was just to get me into the dealership and blah blah.... They didn't seem too interested in working on giving me a better deal.

    A previous experience to get me to buy warranty etc... from Spreen left me feeling disgruntled. So Spreen was out for me although they'd offer a lower price, I'm sure.

    Corona was the lowest price thro' TrueCar (20,120 + tax,title etc...), however, after talking to Tony of HB, I had finalized on buying it from there.

    Thank y'all...

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