Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

98accordex

You're correct but I still think the toe-control link attaches to the subframe. HMC's techinical drawings are incomplete for that part of the vehicle. Again I don't have a CRV (I'm shopping for a 2005 SE) so I can't crawl under to verify. However the description was similar to the Accord situation and someone (from another site) with the problem had it corrected and his repair bill indicated a subframe alignment.

98accordex

I also found another TSB, this tim efor 2002& 2003 CRV's with a possible fix.

 

[I]Pull to the Right Technical Service Bulletin 03-004

 

Honda has released a new service bulletin 03-004 dated January 21, 2003 to address the pull to the right (PTTR) issue that a lot of CR-V owners complained about.

 

This bulletin is only specific for the following models:

 

2002 CR-V 4WD (auto) - All England produced (VIN begins with SHS)

2003 CR-V 4WD EX (auto) - From VIN SHSRD788.3U100001 thru SHSRD78X.3U108790

2003 CR-V 4WD LX (auto) - From VIN SHSRD788.3U100001 thru SHSRD78X.3U108913

 

Bulletin Name: Vehicle Drifts to the Right

 

Symptom: Vehicle pulls to the right while driving

 

Cause: Angle of the upper spring seat is incorrect

 

Corrective action: Realign the damper spring on the upper spring seat

 

This is about a 2 hour job and requires the skills from a trained Honda technician to perform the fix.[/I]

 

Perhaps this will help someone.

varmint

Yep, that TSB has been around for a while. Troubling thing is... PTTR has been around since the first generation CR-V.

 

Some vehicles have it. Some don't.

 

Some are fixed with an alignment. Some not.

 

Some are fixed with a change in tires. Some not.

 

So it's very difficult to pin the problem on any one issue.

blackcrv

RICHK6-

 

 What was the outcome of the rear whining noise on your '02 CRV? My wife's '02 is doing the same thing and the dealer can't figure it out.

 

 Thx.

bclark

Hi Mike:

 

Warm smells slightly acrid (similar to the smell that comes out of your tail pipe)

 

The trailer was very lightly loaded. The total weight of trailer and load was about 1000#.

 

Thanks for your response.

richk6

The noise was corrosion on the brake calipers. Once my dealer's service department cleaned the calipers the noise was gone. Hope this helps you.

blackcrv

Thanks RICHK6 for the reply - to clearify, they cleaned the calipers or the brake pads?? I've never heard of calipers needing cleaning...??

 

You can email me at stevepren-newsgroups@yahoo.com if you'd like.

 

 THANKS AGAIN!

bodble2

Sorry for the late reply -- I hadn't checked this board for awhile. It may not be documented in the manual. I know my TL makes a noise, which has been confirmed by other TL owners as the ABS self-test, but I don't see anything written in the owner's manual about it.

cbfr24

My 05 CRV LX 2WD has the same problem. I will bring it to the dealer in a few days. The tires are Dunlop tires, not the bridgestone ones other people mentioned. So the tires are probably not the cause.

One person at Hondasuv.com/crv said his crv was fixed by moving subframe.

mikeg2

I have a 2000 EX that has been a model of reliability except for this problem developing over the last 6 months.When the front wheels are turned fully to the right or left they shudder when the car is moving.The same problem occurs in foward or reverse.The belts were checked,fluids changed,front brakes changed and the car has 3000 mile oil changes.My local mechanic cannot find anything wrong in drivetrain or suspension.Has anyone seen this problem?

stinky1

I have a 2003 CRV that frequently puts out a really bad smell from the air vents when I turn sharply, accelerate or hit a bump. I have had it back to the dealer three times and I don't believe they even drive it because they just say they couldn't duplicate the problem. I'm about to invoke Mississippi's Lemon Law and request a new car if I can't get the dealer to correct the problem with this one. The smell is of short duration and very acrid, like formic acid. I've smelled the transmission fluid and antifreeze and neither of them smell like the smell coming from the air vents. I've spent half a lifetime in electronics and it doesn't smell like any burning insulation I ever smelled before. It stinks in both heat and A/C mode. I thought it might be the R-134a but it happens in heat mode also. Any ideas. I'm taking the car back to Pat Peck Honda in Gulfport next Friday. Has anyone ever come across this problem before>

crimdoc

Thanks cbfr24,

 

I'll mention that to the Honda field engineer who is supposed to come look at the car on the January 25th.

 

No other updates on progress, though my fuel economy seemed to improve a bit on the last tank of gas (just under 22mpg).

tmanmiata

My problem started out with no sign at all. I heard a loud "bang" and the CR-V stalled. I restarted the V and it sounded weird and would go forward in reverse gear. The D blinking and engine light happened when I drove the V to the dealer a few days later. I am so glad that I was on a side street and my wife and kid was not with me when it stalled. It was scary. If it happened on a freeway or in a major street, it would get rear-ended for sure and could be fatal.

The dealer didn't give me any problem at all, and Honda paid for a new transmission and everything. The dealer determined pretty quickly that it was a bad transmission. After this incidence I have some reservation with Honda quality.

bshel

is this an '05?

van277

My CHECK ENGINE light came on on my 2001 CR-V. The service station checked everything likely: Check Engine is usually a drop in pressure somewhere in the systems that affect pollution control, so a gas cap or a leaky seal can do it. Nothing. The last item on the Honda website service list (that mechanics check using the codes the car's computer generates) is "Valve recessed into cylinder head." This is a warped head, and costs $5,000 to fix, or you get a rebuilt engine. Honda will not stand behind this. It was the end of my CR-V, at 88,000.

tmanmiata

It is an 02' EX. The transmission broke at about 37xxx miles and less than 3 years. Bought the car new with 12 miles on it. It is my wife's car and is being well maintained. In fact I just changed the oil and check the transmission fluid at about 36k miles. Transmission fluid looked fine and was not low or anything. At least I am glad that the dealer or Honda didn't give me any fuss since I am over the warranty technically.

inkie

Sorry to hear about your misfortune with your "V". Could you tell me what brand of oil you used? Including viscosity i.e. 10w20, 10w30 Thanx.

new05ownercrv

I am picking up my 05 CRV this AM and am very leery now that I've read this string. The dealer told me that the air pressure was off in the tires and the alignment was fine. I will keep you guys updated on the problem. Thanks for all the good info. I believe my husband did call Honda direct to give them a heads up on the postings here on Edmunds.

paulbaglin

I have the same problem, I am going to bring it in Monday to my mechanic and let him figure it out since it is the middle of winter and freezing cold. I will let you know what he finds out.

rockycow33

What comes tomes to my mind when there is a vent air smell is the pollon filters. I would replace them and see if that solves the problem. I replaced mine at 20K they were filthy.

ls9999

My automatic '99 crv is very difficult to shift into park as well. I never had this problem before but, when it started a couple of days ago, it has been very difficult to shift into, and sometimes out of park, on a regular basis. Have you figured anything out that might help? Or does anyone else have any ideas?

cdz

I Picked up my '05 CR-V LX 4wd on Thursday, It seemed to run just fine but the start was a little sluggish. I attributed it to the cold weather / or the "regular" gas the dealership put in the tank.

 

It ran fine on Friday, aside from the sluggish start.

 

On Saturday morning I started it, still sluggish, and warmed the engine. I went about 300 yards, stopped at a stop sign and then entered traffic. As soon as the engine hit 3000 rpm, it stalled. It started again, but as soon as I hit 3000 rpm, it cut out.

 

I was able to get back home at a crawl. I called the dealership, and they came to pick up the car. They said they'll check it out and let me know what's wrong on Monday.

 

Now... I'm thinking, maybe I don't want this car back. There are "Lemon Laws" in the State I live in. I still want the CR-V, but not this particular car.

   

Anyone have a similar experience, or is it just me?

kyfdx

A lot of times.. cars have something wrong right out of the box.. Think about it.. You want a new car with less than five miles on the odo.. How much testing will that allow for?

 

No lemon law will allow you to give a car back, just because it breaks down in the first week.. I'm sure people somewhere have had similar experiences, but not many... Just a little bad luck.. let them fix your car.. and then enjoy it..

 

regards,

kyfdx

mikefm58

Sorry to hear about your bad experience. In most states, dealers are required to give you a copy of the lemon laws in that state when you buy the vehicle. Did you get one? If so, read it.

 

In my state, dealers must be given 3 chances to fix the problem and it must be for something that would affect safety or significant useability. A stalling problem would clearly fall under that category, but something like uncomfortable seats wouldn't.

dc_driver

In Virginia, the dealer has one chance to fix any issue that impacts safety. I would think that stalling falls into that territory.. But if I were you, I would talk to the manager. I think it is crazy that your brand new car keeps stalling right after purchase. Maybe they will put you in a new idetical car, or compensate you with some free service.

kyfdx

He had trouble with stalling.. then took it to the dealer.. that is where we are now..

 

Gee.. maybe give the dealer a chance to fix it?

 

And.. I'd like to see info on that Virginia law.. One chance? Sounds unreasonable..

 

regards,

kyfdx

coudiebug

I agree. I remember once, after purchasing a brand new Chrysler Volare (yes, I am dating myself)the car was delivered to me with the windshield wipers sticking straight up! The dealer told me to make an appointment to have them fixed !

 

I say just stay on the dealer's case...make sure the concern is properly documented and corrected. This is embarrassing to them and they should at least try and compensate you for your time and inconvenience (a few oil changes or % coupons would be the least they should offer.)

 

But if it happens again, and then again, I would sic the lemon law after them...but then again if you live in VA get em now !

bodble2

Yeah, I agree. Although I too would hate for that to happen on a new car, you have to at least give the dealer a chance to fix the problem. Who knows, maybe it's a simple fix. But my suggestion is to document everything the dealer does and says right off the hop, and keep copies of all service write-ups, just in case you do end up invoking lemon laws, or in arbitration.

automatic

I had a case of definite drift to the right (not as bad a pull). Dealer sent my 05 EX 4WD out for an alignment, which did not seem to help (there were a few alignment readings out of spec, which were adjusted). Then they swapped the front tires and this seems to have fixed the problem. One of the tires apparently has some "conicity." Are the OEM Bridgestones cheap to have this problem, or maybe conicity is more common that I think? Is it worth my time to get this tire replaced under warranty?

dc_driver

If the stereo had a problem, or the brakes squealed, or even the car had a small leak, I agree, this is minor and the dealer should be able to look at it. This individual had not even had the car 24 hours and it started stalling.. That is different. Not being able to rev the engine past 3000rpm's without the engine stalling is a huge issue (especially where I live and you almost have to drive on the Interstate to get from point A to point . Lets face it, not many people drop 25K+ down on something very often, and I think we as consumers should expect better. I am sure that the problem will be fixed, but you have to admit it definitely takes away from the enjoyment of buying a new car...

 

The VA law is that the dealer has 3 times within 18 months to fix an issue, and for a major safety issue, the dealer has one time to fix it. Per the Lemon laws, this vehicle would not qualify, unless they decide it is a safety issue (doubt it though). So unless the car stalls two more times with the dealer trying to fix it, this car would not qualify. Remember these are VA laws, and every state is different (VA is actually more aggressive than most, probably because of all the lobbyists and lawyers). Here is how the VA Lemon Laws read:

 

It shall be presumed that a reasonable number of attempts have been undertaken to conform a motor vehicle to any warranty and that the motor vehicle is significantly impaired if during the period of eighteen months following the date of original delivery of the motor vehicle to the consumer either:

 

The same nonconformity has been subject to repair three or more times by the manufacturer, its agents or its authorized dealers and the same nonconformity continues to exist;

 

The nonconformity is a serious safety defect and has been subject to repair one or more times by the manufacturer, its agent or its authorized dealer and the same nonconformity continues to exist; or

 

The motor vehicle is out of service due to repair for a cumulative total of thirty calendar days, unless such repairs could not be performed because of conditions beyond the control of the manufacturer, its agents or authorized dealers, including war, invasion, strike, fire, flood or other natural disasters.

dc_driver

FYI, if any of you are interested in your state's Lemon Laws, feel free to use the below link to access:

http://www.crashsafety.com/lemon-law.php

van277

My CHECK ENGINE light came on. My mechanic pulled the codes from the computer, went to the Honda web sites. Everything checked out but the last "Valve recessed into engine head." He checked this, and the valve was recessed. This means a warped head. Honda's recommended fix? Replace the whole top of the engine, $5,000+.

 

The engine had 88,000 on it. The CR-V was great until this.

 

Honda would not stand behind the part, although they knew it was a problem (thus the service bulletin).

 

RVS

cdz

The service manager called me today and said he could not find a problem. He said he ran diagnostic and nothing is wrong.

 

This really concerns me. The problem happen to me with my entire family in the car. When I told him the the guy who picked up the car had the same problem (3000 rpm then drop-off), he asked if the car was in neutral. I told him it was in park. He replied that there is a computer control that will not let the car rev up over 3000 in park or neutral. I told him that I was able to rev up the Element (that's the loaner car they gave me) over 3000 rpm in park. His reply was one of surprise. He said he could show me, in writing, that such a control exists so that the engine doesn't blow from over revving. I told him that 3000 doesn't even put the tachometer in the red let alone threaten to blow the engine. He agreed. He suggested something bad in the fuel line (maybe dirt of condensation) caused the problem. I said that I need to know what the problem was. I said I want the Honda CR-V but not this one. He referred me to sales.

 

I called my salesman and he said if the service department couldn't replicate the problem, then he could not warrant replacement of the car. He suggested I allow service to keep the car and cold start it tomorrow. If it happens again, then we can move to a resolution.

 

I spoke to service again. They will keep the car outside overnight and try again. I told him that I put my wife & kids in this car and need to know I can depend on it when I need to. The last thing I want is to have my family in the car,try to enter traffic on a highway, have the thing cut out, and end up taken out by a semi.

 

He said he would do his best. At this point I'm taking him at his word.

kyfdx

You are right to be concerned.. The crap about 3000 RPM would bother me the most.. It sounds like he is just running off at the mouth, because he doesn't have an answer..

 

I like the idea of them keeping it, until it is fixed..

 

regards,

kyfdx

mikefm58

$5K for just the top half of the engine? Sheesh, what would a whole new engine cost? Have you called Honda regional and do you have all your maintenance receipts?

crimdoc

Dear fellow PTTR victims,

 

Honda sent their field engineer out today to look at our CRV. Basically, he was unable to do anything to correct the problem. He implied that the pull under acceleration was normal.

 

In order to try to convince me, he took me for a ride in a 2004 CRV LX FWD that was on the lot and it seemed to exhibit a pull to the left (both under acceleration and when just rolling). I can't be sure if this is the same CRV I test drove a month and a half ago when this issue first came up (the dealership believes it is) but the funny thing is, when we last drove "this car" I remember it going straight (under both acceleration and rolling).

 

The bottom line is that I think I've now exhausted all possible mechanical remedies on this car.

 

Sorry folks ... wish I had better news.

 

I guess the conclusion here is that if you don't want a car that pulls/torque steers/drifts or whatever you want to call it ... think hard about whether you want to buy a CRV.

kimodo

Not true.

 

     Went to Blockbuster sunday night to pick up a movie. I inadvertantly put it in neutral as opposed to drive (not the first time, still not used to the shift mechanism), and started pressing the gas pedal. Because I was going down hill, I rolled, and I thought I was in drive, pressed on gas alot more and was over 4500 rpm. then I noticed that I was in neutral. I put it in D and drove home. My engine did not cut out.

 

     Three weeks earlier, going to turn into a restaurant, went to put on my blinker and hit the shifter and put it in neutral without realizing (man, can see myself doing it a lot more times in the future, kinda dangerous), in my haste as another car was approaching, I step on the gas, rpms shoot, way over 3000. I put in D and get into driveway.

 

     I have been furtunate not to rev it over 3000 in P, but I know for a fact there is no such limiter when the car is in neutral. Hope that helps. I'm sure other CR-V owners can verify this.

 

bodble2

"went to put on my blinker and hit the shifter"

 

How did you manage to do that?! Aren't those stalks on opposite sides of the steering column?

suvshopper4

I'm not trying to be a wise guy here (for once),

 

but, if you have to live with the PTTR situation (as in, the dealer and mfr won't help), is it possible to even things out with uneven tire pressures?

 

I bought a used car several years ago, and it drove straight and true. As routine maintenance, I checked the tire pressures, and one front tire was high. When I evened out the pressures, the car pulled, big time. I think the seller (a curbside-dealer type) knew how to hide a misaligned car.

 

Hope this helps.

bodble2

"even things out with uneven tire pressures"

 

That's commonly called a Third-World Wheel Alignment.

 

But I think the inherent misalignment would have long term effects on other components, such as steering and suspension.

tomwspencer

Are you going to simply accept Honda's position on this or do you have other ideas.

tomwspencer

A band-aid solution for a new car does not seem to be the right choice. I agree that compesating for the drift via tire pressure modifications will ultimately affect other aspects/components of the car. Based on TSB 03-004 and the posts we are seeing, I would expect that we will see another TSB including the 2005 models in time.

thirdof4

On my 2004 EX auto, the shifter and turn indicator are just a few inches away from each other on the right side of the steering wheel. I have had similar experiences of those listed here except that I haven't put the shifter in the wrong gear, I've pushed the turn indicator in when trying to turn off/on the high gear button on the shift column. More often, I bang my hand into the shifter when going to turn the indicator on. Also find myself fumbling between the two, especially in the dark. Not a great design...

kyfdx

Canada?

 

My turn signal is on the opposite side of the wheel.. Do you mean the wiper control?

 

I too, find the gearshift lever poorly placed.. I bump it often, while changing radio stations..

bodble2

I was thinking the same thing, but it wouldn't be Canada. Maybe if it's a right-hand drive model.

kimodo

Hmmm,

 

     I'm here in America. Only owned this car for about a month. Came from an 04 Accord. Can't remember if the turn signal was on the right on the accord, but that first episode, I was turning into a restaurant, and remember going for the turn signal and hitting the shifter. Will have to check later tonight.

mikeg2

Had the local service station change the oil in the differentials and the problem was cured immediately.Never would have guessed this vibration was caused by broken down oil.Used honda lube.Saw this fix on hondasuv.com and it was great.Hopefully this post will help others.They now recommend changing these fluids every 30,000 miles.

mirage5

Hello,

 

I was just about to go out to the dealer for a possible purchase until I heard this. How fast did this "pull to the right" occur? In terms of number of miles before this problem started. This isn't the first time I've heard this problem and I don't think I should buy the 05 CRV if this is the case.

isellhondas

Forums such as this will attract people with problems. It is HIGHLY unlikely you will have a problem with a pull to the right.

 

I own a CRV and I have driven, literally, dozens and dozens of them and I have NEVER felt a pull.

 

If it does have a pull, it should be noticible from the very beginning.

coudiebug

I am getting near to the end of my 36,000 mile warranty period. I haven't had too many concerns but as of late, a few more significant items that have me a bit concerned moving forward. I am curious as to longevity with this car with regard to major $$$ repairs. I have a 2003 EX AT...feedback? Oh, I am being quoted approximately $1300 from my dealer for the 7 yr/100K package.