Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

tomk17

I have the same impression on my wife's 04 EX. My car pulls in a bunch of stations but in the same areas the Honda radios just skips over them. Radios / audio are not their strong point. Although I have not looked into this myself, you could consider contacting www.Crutchfield.com or pull into your local stereo installation shop to see if they have an FM amplifier for $20-30. Installation could be a pain but maybe not.

dreeb1

Hey,

I have had my 05'SE for about 3 weeks here in Idaho. Why am I having so much trouble with the closing the door. My dad always told me to not slam the door, but this is crazy. anyone one else having the same problem?

FYI.
Picked up my SE with 32 PSI in the tires. Plan to run them at 34 PSI with 5K rotations.

bshel

dreeb, I would call the dealer and make an appt. You shouldn't be having that problem with the door.

fyi - when I picked up my '04, tires were well overinflated, I lowered them to 32 and the ride is much better.

stevedebi

"have had my 05'SE for about 3 weeks here in Idaho. Why am I having so much trouble with the closing the door. My dad always told me to not slam the door, but this is crazy. anyone one else having the same problem?"

Open a window and try the door again. My own CR-V was so airtight that it was difficult (not mechanically so) to close the door. If I just pushed it, the door wouldn't close all the way. At 22K, it is still airtight, but I'm more used to the slight additional pressure needed to close the door on the first try.

If the door is still sticky with a window open, take it back to the dealer under warranty.

varmint

Try it with a window or another door open. See if that makes a difference. When the vehicle is brand new, the door seals are clean, fresh, and very tight. Compressing the air takes a bit of force. An open window allows the air to escape out another opening, making the door easier to close.

**Edit**

oops! Stevedebi beat me to it.

stevedebi

Wow varmint. Check out those post times. Great minds think alike, eh?

varmint

You beat me to the edit, too.

fernc

that happen to me. It is the fuel pump. Trus me.

automatic

Have had my 05 EX for about a week now. On the test drive, I noticed that the steering wheel is a few degrees off center (i.e. slightly, but definitely, off center). Otherwise the car tracks just fine. During our purchase discussion, the dealer said that it was probably within spec, but that they'd look at it. I definitely don't feel that they will be doing anything. Anyone know the "spec" so I have some basis for arguing my case? I have noticed in the past that the one other Honda dealer I have bought from seemed reluctant to do warranty alignment work, perhaps because they'd have to send the work out to have it done, vice doing it in-house. Any input or experiences appreciated.

automatic

Any information on who is the "best" dealer for service in the Seattle area? Is there any way to find out Honda dealer service ratings and what those ratings are based on?

theracoon

On the test drive, I noticed that the steering wheel is a few degrees off center (i.e. slightly, but definitely, off center). Otherwise the car tracks just fine. During our purchase discussion, the dealer said that it was probably within spec, but that they'd look at it. I definitely don't feel that they will be doing anything.

I agree, that sounds like an evasive answer from the dealer. I don't think there is a spec for that. Fortunately I do have a suggestion. In the back of the Owner's Manual is contact information for Honda (not the dealer). If the dealer won't fix it suggest to them that you will probably call Honda about it, because it really annoys you that your brand new car's steering wheel is turned slightly when you're driving straight.

The vehicle I owned prior to my CR-V had that problem, steering wheel slightly turned to the left when driving straight. At the first service I asked the dealer to fix it. They did. From that point on it was turned to the right about the same amount as it had been turned to the left. No. I never went back to that dealer again. And when I sold the car 6 years later the steering wheel was still turned slightly the right when driving straight.

crv4me

We picked up our Pewter SE Friday night. On the test drive I sensed a PTTR and mentioned it to the salesman. He thought it might be the road crown. Thank God I mentioned it!

I dropped off the car to service and Tuesday the PTTR was verified. An alignment showed all four wheels to be out of Honda spec, and an alignment performed, but still PTTR for the alignment tech. He then tried 3 combinations of tire rotations, all to no avail.

Another alignment was performed and the "fix" was to tweak the castor .3 degree. They felt it was OK now and released the car.

We still sense PTTR and will be returning this unit for another this evening. This early in the life of a vehicle, I feel something is not right and how can one tweak of an adjustment affect handling so drastically? How could it come out of the Honda factory with all four wheels out of spec? If alignment is this critical when new, what happens 50k down the road when components start to wear?

Is this model more suseptable to alignment issues? Is it more suseptable to "road crown"? None of my other cars, Hondas or domestics, have pulled or drifted.

I may have to compromise on color to get another unit as the Pewter is in short supply around this area, but I would rather have one that will track straight down the road...hopefully for the life of the vehicle.

How does the CR-V hold up to bumpy roads, other than asphalt? Anyone take them slightly off pavement and suffer alignment issues?

Would TSB 03-004 apply to an 05? I didn't mention it to the service dept, but have printed it from this forum.

Thanks for your input...and support! I'll post again after swapping this unit for another. At least this dealer is working with me and not making excuses!

Other than this issue, we are happy with the CR-V.

nascar9900

tomk17 - I need to change the rear diff fluid on my 2000 CR-V. I searched back through about 200 messages but could not find the post with pictures for the do-it-yourself $10 fluid change.

 

Can you send me the Post Number?

 

Thanks.

baka1

I damaged the left rear end of my 04 CRV- paint is chipping off and the metal near the gas tank is bent in slightly- no bumper or light damage. How much would repairs be?

isellhondas

Nobody here is capable of guessing the extent of your damage. Take it to a couple of good body shops for an estimate!

slugline

I might be wrong, but tomk17 could have been talking about one of my pages:

 

Rear Differential Fluid Change

 

I have a 2000 EX, but the write-up should be applicable to any 1997-2001 model with RT4WD.

varmint

Ditto what Isell wrote. It's not that we don't want to help, it's just that kind of estimate is impossible to do without seeing the vehicle and having a very detailed knowledge of body work.

 

Good luck.

 

Slugline - That would be my guess, too. That page of yours is still one of my most frequently used links.

nascar9900

Slugline,

 

Thanks for the link. $15 and 15 minutes, and no more squeal.

crimdoc

Hmm,

 

Our brand new 05 LX also seems to pull to the right. It isn't drastic but it's definately harder to make a right hand turn than a left hand one.

 

Definately not acceptable on a brand new car ... dealer will be hearing about it tommorow.

crimdoc

Whoops ... should have said it's harder to make a left hand turn than a right hand one ...

tomk17

Yes, this was the nice picture post I was planning to use. I was planning to use the same procedure for an 04 model. I assume it's basically the same.

htt

My '97 CR-V check engine light is on and stay on after I start the engine. Do you know what the most common cause for this problem for the model year is? I did check the gas cap and it was tight. Thanks.

kevinpotter

I have a 2003 EX.

I had a month long break I did not drive my V.

And now when I step on a break it make sounds.

I went dealership and they said rust is on the rotor and it's not a part defect, they can't fix it under the warranty.

They also said it's ok to drive with rust on the rotor.

 

Is this safe to drive?

Thanks.

 

-Kevin

varmint

There is no single common reason for this with the first gen CR-V. The sensor engages the light when it detects problems with emissions. So start with your exhaust.

paulc3

I used to do alignments. This is what your car needs. The mechanic should put a steering wheel holder on the steering wheel with the wheel centered. He then adjusts the toe-in (how much, if any, the front of the wheels are closer together) on each wheel by turning the sleeves between the inner and outer tie rod ends. A new car should have the wheels pointed straight ahead. An older car would have the wheels toed-in around 1/8". I've seen cars with an incorrect setting bald a tire in 100 miles. But that's an extreme case.

htt

Do you know where the 2-wire connector is? The connector that can be jumped to read the check engine code. My car is a '97 CR-V. Thanks.

defielding

Kevinpotter- I concure with your dealership. It is safe to drive your CRV with the rust, (escpecially only after a month of build-up). If the rotor was heavily rusted it would have to be "turned" (to machine off a minimal layer of metal on the rotor or drums of the brakes). If your brakes are otherwise functioning properly, you can drive it safely and, in fact, the brake pads should soon wear off the small amount of rust and any sound should cease.

4351588

My 2005 CR-V is also pulling to the right while driving at highway speeds. The interesting thing is when the car is coasting (e.g. downhill), the pulling / drifting goes away and the vehicle stays centered. When I apply gas, the cars pulls to the right. I don't think the problem is related to the tire, suspension, or alignment otherwise the car would be drifting all the time, right? I suspect the problem is in the distribution of power to the drive wheel.

 

Anyone else with similar experience?

tmanmiata

Drove the car to dealer on the Saturday after Thanksgiving. Car stalled twice, odometer bouncing up and down when it got to 40mph, "D" gear indicator blinked, engine light on... That was quite a drive. Got to the dealer. The service rep said "don't worry about it, Honda would pay for it". Had to wait for Honda's confirmation though. Offered a loaner (03' Element) without asking. Got a called the following Tuesday, everything would be covered by Honda. Car fixed on that Saturday, picked up the Monday after. I was told it was a bad transmission. The rep cannot tell me what's wrong because they have to shipped the transmission directly to Honda and cannot open it up. All I got is "Found code P0780 and trans locking up". Any idea what that code means? I asked how long of a warranty will it get for this transmission. He said 100k miles, no time limitation. However, he cannot put it on the invoice/receipt. It is good that Honda's willing to pay for the repair, but it is scary that a trans broke less than 38k miles and 34 months. On top of that there was no sign whatsoever before it broke.

Here is my question. We plan to keep the car for another 3 years, should I consider buying extended warranty? I checked online and it costs a little over $1000 plus I have to pay for some inspection ~$100. If the transmission is the weak link, now it is fixed and under warranty, should I spend the money for the warranty? You know, Murray kind of got me worry.

crimdoc

That is EXACTLY my experience.

 

I'm presently trying to get the dealership to fix the problem or give me a new car (all CRVs don't do this ... I test drove another one that DIDN'T after discovering the problem with mine).

 

They refuse ... saying it's "normal" (a condition called torque steer).

 

Torque steer may be a partial explanation for the drift under acceleration ... but not at other times.

 

The dealership did rotate the tires and do an alignment ... didn't help in the least.

 

My steering wheel settles slightly off center as well, and it's harder to make a left turn than a right turn.

 

So before you buy BEWARE ... make sure your vehicle tracks and accelerates straight. You'll have a heck of a time getting Honda to even acknowledge its a problem otherwise.

msilverscrv

I have a 2004 CRV-EX. I got an "Err" message while CD player was switching from 3rd to 4th CD while playing songs consecutively in my 6-CD player. Once that happened no CD would play or eject. Shutting the radio or the car didn't help. When I had something similar happen a few months ago, my salesman suggested I disconnect the battery and reenter the radio code. I just tried that but it didn't help. I plan on bringing it in to the dealer, although it's annoying to have this happen at all since I've never had such problems with other cars' CD players. Has anyone else had this problem? Solution? Thanks.

edunnett

Include in a Minor Service: Complete Lube, oil, filter change, brake clean, adjustment, and inspection. We rotate tires, add fuel injecor/cleaner to your fuel tank, and inspect cv boots, and check the suspension. We also check and top off all fluid levels."

The cost to me for all this is $85.

 

My dealer wanted $55 for the tire rotation and brake check when I had them do the oil for $24. I said 'no thanks'. I'm going to get my tires rotated at a local tire shop for $12 on my own. I suggest for that other stuff - which CAN be a good idea to have done, you go to a local independent shop with a good reputation. I have gotten into the habit of looking for ASE Blue Shield certified shops ( http://www.aseblueseal.org/businesses/ )as an indicator of quality. But also compare against the BBB and other local business forums for reputation. My guess is you can get the tire rotation at a local tire shop for $10, the other quick checks for another $10 (at most), you can buy and add the fuel additive for $3 yourself on your next gas fill up. You can even save money I hear by going to a PepBoys type of place who will often do outrageous amounts of free or cheap inspections in hopes it will win your business if they find a problem. The dealer will even have your CR-V up on a lift during the oil change and will see if your CV boots are in bad shape while they are there - if they like to make money, they will peak at those boots and let you know if they need replacing wether you ask them to or not :-)

Hope that helps.

Elissa

crimdoc

Hello folks,

 

I'm wondering if I can get your help/advice. I'm in the process of going to war with the dealer/Honda and I'd like to find out if I have a chance.

 

I'd like to know how much pull/torque steer your CRVs have?

 

As I said earlier, I have a brand new 2005 LX. The steering wheel settles slightly off to the right. It requires more force to make a left hand turn than a right. If you take your hands off the wheel and coast the car veers slightly right. If you hit the accelerator the veer is more pronounced. Under light acceleration, it's still a "drift". Under moderate acceleration it's as if you were intentionally changing lanes. Under hard acceleration the car literally jumps into the next lane.

 

How does that compare with your experiences?

 

Thanks in advance for the help.

theracoon

Under light acceleration, it's still a "drift". Under moderate acceleration it's as if you were intentionally changing lanes. Under hard acceleration the car literally jumps into the next lane.

 

This was a fairly common problem with the 1st Gen CR-Vs. Rotating or replacing the tires along with a good alignment (at a specialist, not the Honda dealer) usually corrected the problem. What's intersting is that in most cases just rotating the tires fixed the problem.

 

It's not torque steer since that would only happen under acceleration. It's also not a "safety feature" to keep you from drifting into oncoming traffic if you fall asleep while driving (yes, some dealers actually told CR-V owners that!).

 

It can be fixed.

 

Good luck!

automatic

Any tips on finding an alignment "specialist"? I'm told to look for a shop with a Hunter machine (though it appears that there is more than one alignment machine made by Hunter). I looked at TireRack.com for installers/customer ratings in my area as well. Any other tips, certifications, etc. to look for? Do you think that the Bridgestone Duelers are part of the problem, in the sense that they might be more directionally twitchy than most tires? I am debating whether to replace mine (05 EX with about 1300 miles). I'm ambivalent, because they seem OK to me (I'm not the most aggressive driver out there), but it seems that it's near unanimous that they are lousy tires. Any information that the Dueler on the 05 CRV is different from the past years? Bottom line, I wonder how much the Duelers are causing the problem?

hbodu

When you disconnect the battery cables from the battery, touch the two cables together, then connect them back to the battery. This should clear the Err from the radio. It will then ask you for the code.

ww2k

Hi, I already asked this question on a different topic (see attached), and I got an answser from varmint (thanks a lot) that it's not a factory alarm, but an aftermarket one. I have another question, wonder if anyone has any suggestions on if it's possible to fight with the dealer on this to give me back a factory alarm instead, because that's what I asked for to begin with when I ordered the car. Is it even worth it? or better off keeping this Checkmate? I don't know if it's better than the factory one.

Thanks

ww2k

-------original message--------------------------------------

#1 of 3 2005 CR-V EX Auto Factory Alarm model? is it Checkmate? by ww2k Dec 20, 2004 (2:11 pm)

 

Bookmark

Hi,

  I wonder if some one can help me determine if a dealer-installed alarm is a Honda factory alarm. I just bought the CR-V Ex auto, orderred with Alarm and Fog lights installed (included in the purchase price). I first picked up the car without them, then the dealer told me to bring it back to the service department to install them later. So I got them installed a week later. Don't know exactly what alarm they've installed. On the service receipt, it shows Checkmate alarm, the technician left an operating menual for Checkmate model KD-100spc in the car. Is there anyone knows if this is a factory alarm? or they installed an aftermarket alarm? Also, is this Checkmate alarm any good? The reason why I suspected is because the car comes with keyless remote entry, all the lock, unlock, hatch buttons are built-in to the key nicely. But they gave me another Checkmate remote with lock and unlock buttons and told me only use them on this new remote (the only button I should use on the key is the hatch), not those on the CR-V key, said it may confuse the system??? My feeling is this is not the factory alarm, Honda should be smart enough to utilize the buttons on the key instead of another remote, shouldn't it? If this is a cheap alarm, I want to have a Honda alarm installed instead.

  Any help or clarification would be greatly appreciated.

  ww2k

 

  

#2 of 3 by varmint Dec 20, 2004 (2:32 pm)

 

Bookmark

That's pretty much standard procedure with aftermarket alarms. And what you have is aftermarket.

 

  

#3 of 3 by Mr_Shiftright HOST Dec 21, 2004 (1:10 am)

 

Bookmark

You may also ask this question in our ongoing CR-V Owners and Solutions Forumif you want further clarification or if varmint wishes to elaborate on what he knows.

  

thanks

  

Host

 

-------original message------------------------------------------

skuterkomputer

I picked up my se last week with the same exact issue. I dont know about the power distribution issue but I have read posts stating the tires are at fault.

bodble2

It would depend on how your contract was worded. Did you specify that the alarm was to be a Honda alarm? If it only said "alarm system" then it would be difficult to argue. I don't know anything about the Checkmate brand, but I really liked the Honda alarm that we had on our '97 CR-V. It had all the features that we wanted -- siren, flashing LED, engine-disable, auto re-arm, auto relock, glass-break sensor, visual and audible arm and disarm confirmation, zone- violation diagnostic. The other thing is that the CR-V is pre-wired for a Honda alarm. So an aftermarket alarm, depending on the skillfulness of the installer, may conflict with vehicle electrical system. In fact, most Honda dealers try to discourage people from installing aftermarket alarms.

 

But maybe you should ask if the Checkmate brand now makes alarms for Honda, because the Honda alarm on our CR-V was actually made by Alpine (for Honda).

hkjcrv

Hi everyone,

 

I have my first annoyance with my 2004 CRV EX that I bought in July. Today, the "Side Airbag Off" light started coming on occasionally. It would come on, then go off, come on again, go off again.

 

Then, it got to a point where it stayed on and has been on ever since. Really annoying.

 

Could it be something wrong with the airbag or the sensor? Should I be taking it in to the dealer to look at?

 

Anybody with a similar experience?

user777

did you place something on your front passenger seat?

falkon

Hey French,

 

I used your method and got two sets of numbers as described. My question is, what part does each of the LETTERs play in the radio serial number since you said that only 8 numbers makes up the serial numbers?

crimdoc

American Honda is sending out a regional manager to check out the problem for me. Once he drives the car I'm confident I'll be able to get things corrected.

 

The dealership (Duthler Honda, Grand Rapids, MI) still refuses to acknowledge there's anything wrong.

crv4me

Keep us posted Crimdoc! IMHO the CR-V is a GREAT car, and the PTTR could very well be the tires, but one wouldn't think you would have to replace brand new tires. I also reported my experience to Honda of America.

 

Hats off to my dealer, Honda of Bellevue for not sidestepping the issue and doing what it took to make it right with a loyal Honda customer. The replacement unit, which he went out of the way to secure, another Pewter Pearl, drives straight and true. The wheel is centered, not the telltale slightly offcenter to the right. The difference was detectable immediately.

 

I have a friend picking up his new SE on Monday, I hope his is straight.

 

Please post what your outcome with your Honda rep is. I'm surprised your dealer won't step up to the problem.

rhouser2

Are you referring to the dealer in Bellevue, Nebraska? We live about 90 miles from Omaha and are curious about the dealers available in the metro area. the crv is definitly on our list.

theracoon

American Honda is sending out a regional manager to check out the problem for me. Once he drives the car I'm confident I'll be able to get things corrected.

 

You're welcome. Try to go on the drive with the regional manager if at all possible, or at least get time to talk to them in person. Make sure they understand that the dealership has been denying that there is any problem.

 

And let us know what happens.

 

hkjcrv

Yes, I had my laptop computer on the seat. Why would that make a difference? I've had people sitting in the seat and it has never turned the light on before. You'd think that the weight of a person would cause more havoc than the weight of a laptop computer?

hkjcrv

By the way, forgot to mention that it went off the next time I was in the car and it hasn't come back on since.

kyfdx

It senses a weight that is lighter than the minumum for the airbag.. It is so when you put a child or a very small adult in that seat, you have a warning that the airbag will not go off.. The laptop explains it perfectly..

 

regards,

kyfdx

indianamorse

Can you describe the squeal you experienced? I just bought a 2000 CR-V EX and I get an occasional squeal in the rear when I'm driving in the snow. Sometimes the noise will move from side to side while I am accelerating. It never makes noise on dry roads. Is this what you experienced and did the fluid change fix the problem?