Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

mikefm58

We discussed this awhile back where my driver's side door would not unlock when I hit the remote. I could hear the click but the door knob wouldn't do more than twitch. I believe a couple other folks had the same problem and I was wondering what they did to fix this? I seem to remember theracoon and possibly varmint knowing something about this. I did a search but couldn't come up with anything concrete.

 

I plan on taking my door apart this weekend and would like to know what others did to fix their problem.

kyfdx

http://www.curryhondacare.com

 

Try here for a better price.. totally legit.. a dealer in the northeast..

defielding

crimdoc:

Since a few people have mentioned how much tire pressure differences from tire to tire can affect how a vehicle can track, has the tire pressure on your tires been checked? Also, if the tire pressure is too high the vehicle can wander a lot. Try a common cold tire pressure of 19 PSI. I'm sure with all the checking that you have had done that this has been also checked, but it might be worth doublechecking.

varmint

Mike, there's a service bulletin about that issue. It's number 03-068. Here's a summary.

 

SYMPTOM

The key will not go into the door lock cylinder, or if it goes in, it will not turn.

 

PROBABLE CAUSE

The door lock tumblers are damaged or worn.

 

CORRECTIVE ACTION

Remove the door lock cylinder, and replace the inner cylinder, springs, and tumblers.

 

PARTS INFORMATION

Door Lock Cylinder Kit: P/N 06720-S5A-305, H/C 7604499

Cylinder Rod Clip: P/N 72116-S47-901, H/C 5968136

push88

I had a 95 Accord that was pulling on acceleration and dealership could not fix it(yes, one time they tried to put more air to the tires on one side without telling me) and told me that all front wheel drive cars do that ..., that sort of crap. But my 90 civic does not. When you get one like that you are stuck. Well after 5 years that thing was someone else's trouble and I've got a new concern(03CRV w/potential engine fires), lucky me. So based on my sample size of 3 hondas, you would expect to have 33% of chances to get a handa that pulls. When the sales guy ask you to drive the car home for overnight, you really should take the advantage and get on hi way to feel it.

 

TJ

kinko

Hi varmint, what is the official website to look up all the recalls/TSBs for the 02 CR-V? Thanks.

edunnett

About the stink... I found a rotten bird wedged in the bumper of my husband's '04 CR-V. It had only just started stinking up the cabin but boy did the garage have an aroma. Could your smelly heat be some unfortunate peice of wildlife?

Elissa

varmint

Honda does not make their TSBs public. Recalls may be found on the NHTSA site. That information I posted above comes from another forum. It would be against the member agreement for this site if I were to post a link. Please feel free to e-mail me, though.

mikefm58

That doesn't sound like my problem. I have no problems using the key to unlock / lock the door, just when I try to use the remote. Also, any idean what those parts you listed cost?

bodble2

"Try a common cold tire pressure of 19 PSI."

 

19 PSI is too low. I think the recommended pressure is 26 - 28. I usually run them at 30 PSI.

defielding

Thanks for catching that, it was a typo, I meant 29 PSI. That's what I always run mine at. My '99 CRV has always tracked straight from new with both the original BF Goodrich tires and the Hankook Mileage plus tires I run now. By the way, these Hankook tires give excellent grip in snow, (for an all season tire), and yet are not noisy and seem to be lasting well.

wildcat

I just purchased a 2004 CRV EX 5 speed manual in October 04. Immediately after purchase I began to notice a strange characteristic with the accelerator. After stepping on the clutch to shift the engine refused to decelerate as a normal engine would when you take your foot briefly off of the accelerator as you shift to the next gear. Frequently the engine actually increases its rpm and 'hangs up' between 2500 and 3000 rpm. This is especially disconcerting when you pull up to a stop sign and the engine remains in this high rev condition for up to 5 to 10 seconds and then slowly comes back down to a normal idle around 700 rpm. I have had the car in to the dealership twice and the hook it up to the computer and say everything is 'great'. They also claim they have not seen the problem when they take it out for a drive.

  

Has anyone else experienced a problem similar to this in a manual shift CRV? I was thrilled to buy a Honda after extensive research but my patience is now very thin!!

tntitan

I have an '02 CRV-EX that pulled to the right when I first purchased it and also the steering wheel was not properly aligned. I had my dealer adjust the steering wheel (the specs were within Honda parameters but I had them get it a little more exact) and that was the end of that problem. They also checked the alignment (which was pretty much ok), the tire pressures were way off, and rebalanced the wheels. After rotating the tires the PTTR problem was about 80-90% corrected. When I replaced the worthless Dueler tires with some Costco Michelins ALL of my problems went away.

 

IMO Honda's biggest shortcoming on all cars are the tires. When I bought my '03 Accord I drove it 2 miles and changed tires (and wheels). After letting the dealer give up on trying to fix your problem, I would have someone that really knows what they are doing check the tires to see if they are properly balanced and make sure they are not out of round. Take the invoice for any work done to the dealer and have them reimburse you after showing them it corrected the problem that was "normal".

isellhondas

I disagree with your math.

 

You have owned three Hondas and one of those had a problem?

 

That sure does not mean that 33% of Hondas would have that same problem!

 

Also, don't feel unlucky with your CRV. My wife loves our 2003 CRV and we drive it without the slightest worry!

thirdof4

Yes, sorry for the confusion, I mean the wiper control. These two "stalks" are only about 3 inches from each other when the vehicle is in "D". I too bump the shifter when dealing with the radio.

varmint

Sorry about that. I'm not a lockwmith, so my assumption could be way off. I was thinking that if the tumblers were worn out, the remote might not be able to reset the lock.

 

Dunno about the part prices. That wasn't included in the original post.

bodble2

We've been down this road before. It is natural that someone who has bought a car with a problem will tend to exaggerate the prevalence of the problem. You sell Hondas, so you say you've never seen a car with a problem. Neither is true.

rstovebags

My 2001 Cr-V may have a problem where the exhaust valves lose their adjustment rapidly leading to stalling and other problems. Apparently this is a know problem with 99-01 but Honda has not yet offered anything to owners out of warrenty. Has any one dealt with this and have your dealers offered anything other than head replacement for 4K?

 

Rusty

rstovebags

I may have the same problem. My mechanic talked to Honda and he thinks Honda may soon? run an extended warrenty program for this problem. Let me know how this goes for you. I'm not yet at the end of my rope with this.

R

jaker

Ok, Honda loyalists, we have a problem. 05 CR-V EX, AUTO, pulls to the right. Noticed it the first night I drove it home, took it back for service. They rotated the tires, to no avail. Checked alignment and found Honda factory alignment off in the rear. Still no better. I called Honda Corporate today and told them that they have a manufacturing issue. I read the other posts and want to know what specific solutions have been offered for other PTTR problems. I can't live with this, and will file a Lemon Law violation should it persist, since it is clearly a safety issue.

kinko

I havd found those recalls and TSBs at alldata already. Thanks.

tomwspencer

I went to a different Honda dealership yesterday and asked one of the service representatives if he could print two TSBs for me:

--TSB 03-004 (2002/03 CR-Vs drifts right)

--TSB 03-036 (2003/05 Accord drifts right)

he hestitated but finally went ahead and printed them for me. In all, there are multiple fixes possible for a drift problem. "Third World Fixes" aside, the list includes rotating the tires, adjusting front wheel alignment, adjusting front and rear alignment, adjustment of the sub-frame and rotating a plate in the front struts.

 

I was at the local Toyota dealership recently and asked one of their experts about general alignment issues and what might be causing the drift. He concurred with the items listed above and also mentioned that there could be issues with the transmission or there could be faulty wheel bearings. I asked him if there was a governing body that sets acceptable drift specifications for cards. Unfortunately no such body or specification exists. So it appears that Honda's guidelines are arbitrary and there is nothing that can be used to challenge those guidelines. BTW, the individual used to work for a Honda dealership. He had workd on adjustments for sub-frames in the past any even sketched a diagram for me showing where the vulnerabilities are and how to adjust for them.

 

What I think we have here is a list of potential variables and a very large grey zone. Just because the alignment dials into the "Honda Specs" does not mean that your car will go straight. The key on this issue is to find somebody who will take the time to investigate the entire list of potential causes and make the necessary adjustments. This mechanic I spoke with at Toyota gave me a contact at another Honda dealership. I will speak with that individual next week and post any news. Stay tuned.

 

P.S. I think the recommendations on this message board and by Honda for tire pressure compensations are completely unacceptable. Uneven wear on the tires, unnecessary stress on other components on the car and just the fact that I have to have a work-around on a brand new car are unreasonable.

tomwspencer

see may last post for more details. Answering your question....my CR-V and others who have used this message board have had this problem since day one. It appears that CR-Vs affected are a small percentage which is why this issue is not being addressed by Honda. It is a good car but this issue will boil your blood. Driving it is like somebody constantly tapping on your shoulder. I suggest that you drive the exact CR-V you are buying before you sign the paperwork.

isellhondas

So you think I'm lying?

 

I don't doubt some CRVS may pull to the right. I don't doubt that at all. I don't think it's a widespread problem since I have yet to have one do this to me.

 

Easy enough to fix if it does happen.

 

I just don't like to see people get scared away from a great car over a problem the majority won't be affected by.

edunnett

I am fond of taking the actual car I plan to purchase for a mini test drive before I put pen to paper. Although the dealers are usually not terribly happy with one of the sales cars being used as a test drive car but heck, I wanted to make sure it didn't have any obvious defects out the door. I made sure I picked which of the 5 of my vehicle on the lot I wanted to take home. Had it exhibited any obvious behavior problems, I would have known and could have chosen another car before signing.

Just a suggestion for potential buyers of any make/model.

Elissa

stevereeno

Kevin,

I have a 2003 V (built in England) with 10K miles with the same type odor. I only notice it on the back passenger side. I never could find the cause for sure. I thought it might be caused by heat from the exhaust but am not sure. If you think it's from the wheel, try warming it up without driving anywhere. If it still has an odor it won't be from the wheel/brake.

bodble2

"Easy enough to fix if it does happen."

 

You'd have a hard time convincing the people on this board who have the problem.

 

BTW, I don't think you're lying, per se. I just think you talk like 99% of the car salesmen. But then again, you guys are trained to sell cars, not to critique, or troubleshoot them.

bodble2

Your suggestion of test-driving the actual car you're buying is very good, and I try to do that as much as possible. But one thing I've learned is that you really need to go on an extended test drive -- say, at least 75 - 100 miles. And unless you're a repeat customer, most dealers would be reluctant to let you do that, if you tell them that you may not buy that particular car, if you detect a problem. And for sure, if there is a problem with the 1st one, and you ask to similarly test a 2nd one, they won't be smiling!

 

BTW, I'm just curious, why the infatuation with a 18-yr-old Civic Wagon? I don't mean to offend, but it's not the most attractive model from Honda's archives. (although the RT-AWD version of the wagon did exude a certain appeal)

suvshopper4

"P.S. I think the recommendations on this message board and by Honda for tire pressure compensations are completely unacceptable. Uneven wear on the tires, unnecessary stress on other components on the car and just the fact that I have to have a work-around on a brand new car are unreasonable." -tws

 

I was just trying to help you with a problem you might be stuck with.

My bad.

Won't do it again.

 

-ss4

jaker

Thanks for your insight on the PTTR. I'm planning on taking the CR-V back to the dealer tomorrow and give them the information I have. My worry is that, going forward, will this be a recurring issue? I bought a late model 04 CR-V and decided to trade up to the 05. Guess what? The 04 had no troubles, so shame on me, right? Now I've dropped $20,000 into an unsafe vehicle, and I really do believe a PTTR creates a hazardous driving situation -- at least for me, and I'm not going to let them tell me otherwise. This is NOT a drift, it's a pull...if you let go of the steering wheel, you will leave the road.

 

Anyway, I'm in total agreement with you and we're not going to mess around talking about tire pressure. The issue is more serious than that and Honda shouldn't try to pass this off as a minor issue.

isellhondas

I talk like a car salesman?

 

Well, I also talk like a person who once managed a large automotive repsir shop that had four alignment racks. If a car pulls to the left or right it can be fixed easily unless the frame is bent or something.

 

The idea of a 75-100 mile extended test drive is insane. How would you like your "new" car to have 100 miles on it? If the car has a problem such as a pull to the right, it sure wouldn't take many miles to find that out!

 

As far as pulls to the right...all cars will have a slight drift to the right. Big difference.

bodble2

"The idea of a 75-100 mile extended test drive is insane. How would you like your "new" car to have 100 miles on it? If the car has a problem such as a pull to the right, it sure wouldn't take many miles to find that out!"

 

I was referring to detecting any problem, not just a pull or drift problem. You need an extended test drive to allow you to get used to the nuances of each car. Maybe 100 miles is too long, but at least 40 - 50 miles.

 

And I've seen plenty of new cars with 50, 75, or even more than 100 miles on them. And when you asked the salesman, he'd say that's normal, that's it's just been on a few test drives.

 

Can't talk out of both sides of your mouth.

varmint

"And when you asked the salesman, he'd say that's normal, that's it's just been on a few test drives."

 

If a salesperson told me that a car with 40-60 miles on it had been for a "few" test drives, I wouldn't sweat it. But if each of those test drives were 40-60 miles, I'd want another vehicle. Or at least a discount on that car.

 

In my head, I know a car with 200+ miles on it would be fine. But miles like that would instigate just enough doubt that I'd rather not risk it. Not when I can go to another dealer who does not allow test drives of that sort and get a car with only two digits moved on the odo.

 

And most buyers are not as understanding as I am. Go into the "prices paid" thread and you'll find buyers complaining about anything over 10 miles.

isellhondas

Some buyers are VERY fussy about the number of miles on their new car. Maybe the same buyers who think it's a good thing to put 50 miles on a test drive.

 

I disagree. I can find out anything about the car in five miles or less.

 

I once had a customer return THREE times to test drive the same Accord. When he decided to finally buy, he demanded I sell him one of the ones with 10 or 12 miles on it! Heck, he was the only one who had driven that car the 35 miles or wahtever it had on it!

bodble2

for every buyer who demands a car with less than 10 miles on it, there'll be 3 who would accept one with 100 miles on it.

bodble2

And in case my point was misconstrued, I'm not saying that I would walk into a dealer, and on a whim, ask to test drive this car, and that car, for 50 miles. I'm saying that after the deal is completed, all the i's dotted and t's crossed, meaning there is no question I am buying a car, I would want a long test drive. And if the incidence of problem cars is as low as isell makes it to be, then chances are I'm going take the 1st one I drive. And if I have to reject 2 or 3, well, then, I'm not the problem.

mikefm58

<< after the deal is completed, all the i's dotted and t's crossed, meaning there is no question I am buying a car, I would want a long test drive. >>

 

Not sure how things like that are done up in Canada, but here in Florida, once "the deal is completed, all the i's dotted and t's crossed" you own the car and can take as long of a test drive you want. But if you're not happy with it, you go to service, not sales cuz you own THAT car.

bodble2

I'm talking about after signing the offer to firm up the deal, but before you sign the papers to take title/possession. Things work pretty well the same up here as it does in Florida, I'm sure.

kizhe

Re: PTTR problem.

Apparently fans of this forum need to compile a "Check list" for a new CR-V shopper.

I propose that one of the entries should be:

While doing your new CR-V first test drive:

1. Make sure all tires got equal pressure.

2. Take your CR-V to the even surface (highway or empty parking lot) and make sure it would not pull/drift to the right/left.

If you find a PTTR/L problem, ask for another car, do not trust dealer if he would promise to fix it later. (Dealer, naturally, would try to convince you that this is an "easy fix", which they do all the time). Do not drive car home and do not sign anything!

 

I encourage fans of this forum to continue this "Check list". This might help some folks to stay out of trouble.

 

My only concern that dealer will sell that "trouble car" to somebody anyway.

Dealer knows that "A sucker is born every minute" :-) .

Don't be that sucker!

billyocean

I have had my CR-V for one year and never had a major problem. I have about 100,000 miles on it. Just about two weeks ago, I used the 2nd and 3rd on the automatic transmission in the snow. A few days after that I started hearing noise coming from the chassis - It usually happens when the speed level is between 25 and 40. Occasionally you hear this noise as if an emergency vehicle is honking from a distant. And it usually happens when I step on the gas. As soon as I take my foot off the gas it stops or if I step harder on the gas, it stops. It drives me crazy. I hope it is not any big problem. I just had my rear differential fluid changed but still the problem persists. I need help. Thanks

bodble2

Wait a minute, you put 100,000 miles on your CR-V in one year?!! Is it because your band tours in your CR-V? BTW, what was the title of your last hit single? Was it Caribbean Queen, or something like that?

varmint

I'd take that bet.

varmint

It's a 1997 vehicle that he has only owned for one year (bought used).

 

Billyocean - Does it sound something like a rattle from under the car? As if a heat shield were loose?

 

Some owners of the 1st generation CR-V have heard noises like that when the timing belt tension was off. Might have that checked out.

push88

isellhondas wrote in reply to my post:

---------------------------------------

I disagree with your math.

  

You have owned three Hondas and one of those had a problem?

  

That sure does not mean that 33% of Hondas would have that same problem!

  

Also, don't feel unlucky with your CRV. My wife loves our 2003 CRV and we drive it without the slightest worry!

--------------------------------------

 

You thought my 33.3% was too high? I didn't want to believe the figures I was told either! I was at a 2nd dealership trying my luck to fix the pulling of my then brand new 95 Accord, the service mgr told me that every Accord could do that and offered me a test drive on a new Accord that had similar problem. The msg the mgr tried to convey was it was a common phenomenon and you just have to live with it. I gave up after 3 trips to the dealerships and lived with it for years. It's not as easy to fix as you and I would want to believe. You are entitled to a free alignment and some minor twicks within 6k miles. Then you have to live with it, because the service would not want to spend more time on it.

 

So bring a check list as someone suggested and test drive the car thoroughly when you're still holding your hard earned money.

varmint

"So bring a check list as someone suggested and test drive the car thoroughly when you're still holding your hard earned money."

 

I agree with this as well as what Bodble wrote before. You have the right to test drive the specific vehicle you are buying. Go over it with a fine tooth comb before signing the final paperwork. If you don't like something, ask them to fix it. They still need to earn your cash, so they are likely to quick about it.

 

Most dealers are honest folks, but just in case you wandered into the lair of a troublemaker it's better to have the upper hand.

rablake

Was it Bobby McFerrin telling us "Don't Worry, Be Happy" all those years ago ? Who knew he moved on to selling Hondas.

mikefm58

I just got off the phone with the dealer to get an estimate for my '99 CRV with 104K miles. Their timing belt package is $550, includes timing belt, all other fan belts, water pump & seals, radiator flush and fill. Also, adjusting valves is needed at 105K miles, that's $87 with the timing belt service, $165 if done seperately.

 

Ouch!!!! Are those prices reasonable? This vehicle needs to last me at least 3 more years and I put about 15K miles on per year.

kyfdx

Sounds about right.... And, it has to be done.. It will be cheap if you get 45K more, without any significant problems..

steve royal

I also am in the '05 Honda CRV club with the PTTR problem. The PTTR started from Day 1. The vehicle has been in the Honda Service shop 3 times. After alignment, tire inflation and rotation, the problem is as bad as ever especially upon acceleration. I called Honda America and reported the dangerous problem. It's been a week and I received no further communication. My request for the Lemon Law arbitration program goes out this Friday. Steve

automatic

Price sounds in line for a Honda dealer. I suggest you check into an independent mechanic that works on Hondas. There are so many Hondas out there that there probably several shops in your town that work only on Hondas. I use one here in Seattle, and I recall paying only about $300-ish for the timing belt and water pump. The "mechaniX files" at the cartalk dot com website is a good source of customer comments and recommendations for mechanics in your zip code, and you can filter the results by automobile make.