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$8425 if 12,000 miles.
$8700 if 6,000 miles.
(How many miles and what condition, transmission and options, if any on yours, mia?)
Even using $9250 as the true value of mia's trade (based on his estimate of 9 to 9.5 k) the $13,000 trade allowance was great! And presumably, he benefited too from the additional sales tax savings on that $9250 amount, which comes to $647.50.
So, the before government taxes, but accounting for the $2000 rebates, the sale price was at most $17,741.61 (or $17,094.11 counting the extra sales tax savings), on a $24,895 MSRP car!
That is between 71.3% and 68.7% of MSRP on a first year model car, and a desirable one at that. Wow!
I salute mia for getting the equivalent of the $1000 finance rebate even without using Hyundai financing. Good move!
Mia got the percentage deal I would be looking for now on a new Sonata LX pack 3, or an Azera Limited Ultimate.
On my last four new cars, which were desirable and current year Asian cars of three different makes (not Daewoo or Suzuki or Mitsubishi), but not totally brand new designs, I have been lucky enough to get good prices lower than 57%, 68%, 71% and 67% of the four MSRP's. And there were no trade-ins, no military or college rebates, and no manufacturer financing rebates on any of them. The cars were in perfect condition with odometers showing between 14 and 47 miles at purchase times.
Super deals are possible if you get lucky and buy at the right times, when the dealer really needs to sell a car, for whatever reason. If you get a deal like these, don't worry about why the dealer discounted it so much. Just enjoy!
I have found that a really low initial purchase price coupled with a later private party sale while the car is still under warranty does wonders for the resale value percentage of purchase price too.
I figure it is about $18,291 out the door. LX, pack 3. Wow!
120 odometer miles is fine (unless they were done in 480 quarter-mile sprints).
I would not have worried about your 120 miles either.
Yes I figured the lower 18's for the LX OTD, but I didn't want to post that because my Deal was a mistake. Both my Salesman & his Desk Manager were gone from the Dealership the next day. The original Deal was based on another Car (a GLS with most options) and also the $1000 HMFC rebate which I eventually didn't qualify for, as I have no Job. 5 days later when they couldn't produce this Car that was supposedly at the Body Shop, I became upset, and told them I will either drive off in an LX right now, or cancel the deal. It worked, however after two Weeks of driving the LX wondering how the heck I did it, they called asking for an extra $1000, as HMFC said no. I knew this was going to happen, and we agreed to $500. The next morning I went in planning to either return the Car, yell some more, or agree to pay just what was specified on the contract. Since my signed contract listed the rebates together as a lump sum of $3000, with no mention of what they were for, it would have been hard for them to prevail in a Court of Law. However I signed away my Legal rights in favor of arbitration, which I will never do again!. In any case since the Car was provided on a convenience basis, and also because there is a provision in the contract if the Dealer makes a mistake, the contract can be voided, I felt I was going to lose my LX. However it was the end of the Month, they had already figured my sale into their monthly total of 22 cars, and my cashiers check sealed the deal!
So the dealership made a mistake in your favor? Oh well, nobody's perfect. Glad it worked out well for you.
I just figure the dealerships won't go out of business if they give a couple people extra good deals once in a while, so I enjoy being one of them. I did not force any of them to deal with me, they eventually chose to sell to me at my price.
I agree with you wholeheartedly about not wanting to sign away litigation rights. The problem is, many business people will just tell you to go away if you won't agree to their arbitration agreement. And that includes dentists, doctors and other professionals too, as well as services and retail businesses.
I don't know anything about carspace.
Let me address a question from your previous post. The Elantra had Auto & C.C. with only 4000 miles. KBB Florida says $9575 in good condition, and it was! :lemon:
I do admire your Mathematics in response to my series of posts. It seems you know how to work around figures?. Sure I saved on tax, and Florida's DMV fees are reasonable. Sometimes you can just beat Dealers at their own game. I did not go in there with that frame of mind, I knew how much money I could spend, and never thought of going for the financing, because my Credit it good but maxed out which is really bad!.
"Mia got the percentage deal I would be looking for now on a new Sonata LX pack 3, or an Azera Limited Ultimate".
Yes, the guy who did the figures & yelled at me ("this is a $3000 loss for us") was not working there along with my Salesman two days later. The Dealership had just gone through a mass firing of almost the entire Sales & Finance team, and the brand new G.M. seemed really creepy. I had a few cosmetic issues put on a "WEOWEYOU" and signed by the salesman & myself. Since I wasn't given a copy, he questioned whether it existed. I called my fired Salesman who gave me the real inspiration to finally close my deal like a skilled Surgeon. I even have a copy of the final transaction session on digital audio :P .
One funny thing though, I brought in the other 2 original purchase orders and they wanted them back. I said no, it's on the tape!
And a word of advice. This Dealer used one of those giant all in one forms, instead of individual forms used in the past. I had never seen this by the way. It was during this process that I signed away my rights for arbitration. I thought this had to do with Warranty claims, not the actual purchase. As noted by you above Joe, be careful while signing anything anywhere, especially when it has to do with arbitration :mad:
Love this new Sonata
Scott
Suzanna,
I am interested in buy a new sonata but would like to have a better understanding of the HMFC $1000 rebate. My preference is to pay cash, BUT if I can find a way to utilize HMFC to lower the price and then paying off the HMFC loan how should I proceed? Is there any maximum limit for a down payment? Is there a penalty for prepayment of HMFC and if so what is the cost? I guess I would just like to know about any "fine print" in reference to using HMFC to obtain the $1000 rebate.
Thanks in advance for any words of wisdom.
Gino3
Actually I have gone back and read many posts. As I understand it, you were able to get a rebate but you did not use HMFC. Your deal appeared to me to be a unique one between you and the dealer. Suzanna is the only post I could find that stated she used HMFCA and was then able to pay off the entire loan thereby incurring little in the way of interest charges.
My questions range from how large a downpayment can be made to if the repayment of the loan carries some kind of a penalty with it. For example-------can I pay 30, 40 or 50% down, finance the balance and then quickly pay off the remainder.
Gino
In order to qualify for the $1,000 rebate from HMFC, you have to finance the vehicle through them. The rates that posters have received appear high (7% to 9%), when compared to a credit union (in the 4s, 5s, and 6s. It appears that posters have taken the rebate only to quickly refinance the vehicle through a Credit Union.
On the side note, I went to Hyundai USA's website earlier this morning, and they indicated that no incentives were availalble. I don't think this is the case. I'm interested in a 2006 GLS V-6. Any pricing tips/suggestions.
One of the Hyundai ads in my local paper highlighted a lease deal on a GLS V6, which is a new offer--previous lease deals on the 2006 Sonata focused on the GLS I4. As I recall, the lease offer for the V6 was about the same (maybe a little higher down payment) than the previous offer on the I4, and it was for 30 months.
You can pay it off as soon as you get your loan in the computer system...
Penalty: read your financing Contract; it should spell out any fee - penalty if paid early, nothing more, nothing less!
Nobody knows if they will offer it again... but it appears that the HMFC $1,000 give away, was a resounding success! I am glad I don't own any of their stock (shares)!
I check Fitzgerald prices this morning and they are as follows:
GLS4---$17527 GLS6---$17562 LX---$19292
Carsdirect target prices for my zip code are as follows:
GLS4---$17796 GLS6---17631 LX---$19361
GLS4 rebate was $1000 if financed by HMFC plus $500.
Rebate total for GLS4 was $1500
GLS6 and LX rebate was $1000 if financed by HMFC plus $2000
Rebate total for GL6 and LX was $3000
Note that in Carsdirect the GLS6 is cheaper than the GLS4.
Thanks again for your replies,
Gino
I just reluctantly got the HMFC loan Friday night.
I am in the process of learning how to pay it off, will keep in touch.
Suzanna
The information I got from the dealer is in California, yet I've read that the correct office for paying off the loans is in the Northeast somewhere.
Could anyone give me the correct name, address and telephone for the payment/payoff?
Thanks,
S
Automated Retail Account Access - 1-800-523-4030
To access information regarding your HMFC account, including account status, date of last payment received and payoff information, you may call the HMFC automated phone system at:
(Note: Please have your account number or social security number available when you call.)
Customer Service Department
1-800-523-4030
6 a.m. – 4 p.m. (PST) – Representatives available
Collections Department
1-800-523-7020
Mon. - Thurs. 6 a.m. - 7 p.m. (PST)
Friday - 6 a.m. - 5 p.m. (PST)
Saturday - 6 a.m. - 12 p.m. (PST)
Consumer Affairs
1-800-633-5151
5 a.m. - 6 p.m. (PST)
Answer questions regarding: Hyundai Motor America and warranty issues
24-hour Roadside Assistance
1-800-243-7766
Answer questions regarding: disabled vehicle, locate a dealer, I.D. card inquiries,
and program guidelines.
Is my account number the same as the number on the loan agreement or do they issue another number?
I can't wait until this is all over!
Suzanna
They will give you the address where to mail the pay off.
Also they will tell you up to what date the pay off is good for; ( usually they give you the pay off amount for 15 days+ from the day you called them... and they will calculate the exact Interest due, as of the day they receive the payment; and if you overpaid they will mail you the difference!).
No the Loan # is different: but all you need for now is the Social Security # and the VIN last 6 digits!
Your new loan place does the pay off for you: They will not give you the check!
So when you apply, give them the phone # and they will do all the rest(+ SS # and last 6 digits).
I suggest you wait about 10-12 days before flipping the loan... that way HMFC will have mailed/ paid the $1000 rebate to the dealer first.
OK, I'll be nice!
Suzanna
Not trying to inundate you with too much information, but I got the following from the HMFC Website (Q&A)about "payoff":
Thanks for your reply,
Gino
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Payoff
What is an account payoff and how is it calculated?
The payoff is the amount that you need to pay your retail account in full. Your payoff includes:
Principal balance - the remaining portion of the original amount that you actually financed, plus
Accrued interest on the principal balance, and in some cases
Additional charges, such as late fees.
To obtain a payoff quote call our automated system at 1-800-523-4030.
How do I pay off my HMFC account?
For your account payoff to be processed without unnecessary delays, we require:
A check or money order for the full payoff amount, made payable to HMFC (Hyundai Motor Finance Company). For retail payoff quotes over the phone call 1-800-523-4030.
The address the title should be sent, if it is different from what we have on record.
Your written authorization if you wish the title to be mailed to a third party.
Where do I mail my payoff?
HMFC - Payoff Department
1001 East Fayette Street
Baltimore, MD 21202
In any case now is the time to take advantage of the new Sonata V6. As Captain Picard would say:
"Make it so!"
LX V6 Months 24-48, 49-60, 61-72
$2000 or/ 2.90%, 2.90%, 4.90%
It also looks like the V6 is becoming a better deal all the time. It now has a standard $2K rebate compared to the $500 rebate for a I4. Also more dealers seem to bend on their price more for the V6.
They also took the valued owner rebate down from $1K to $500 for all trims.
The maximum rebates you could get in March are excluding college and military rebates:
V6 Models: $3K ($1K for standard rebate, $1K for HMFC, and $1K for Previous Ownership)
I4: $2500 ($500 for standard rebate, $1K for HMFC, and $1K for Previous Ownership)
Now the Maximum you can get is the following excluding military and college rebates:
V6: $2500 ($2K for standard rebate and $500 for previous ownership)
I4: Here is where it really makes a difference. $1000 ($500 for standard rebate and $500 for previous ownership).
Material costs including steel and others, are skyrocketing. Transportation costs, including oil are too. This is in part due to the devaluation of the U.S. dollar and in part due to increased demand for materials and oil, chiefly in China.
Look at house prices. Some of their increases are due to materials and labor and transportation costs. Some of the increase is due to easy credit. Some (much) is due to speculators who were looking to ride the wave to its top and then unload. The unloading is beginning right about now.
As the real estate bubble continues to deflate, people will choose to spend their devalued credit dollars elsewhere. Maybe the stock market, maybe gold or silver, maybe commodities. But maybe consumer goods in an effort to own at least something tangible and arguably useful during a time of rapid debasement of the dollar. And consumer goods includes cars.
U.S. car makers are so far in debt it is not likely they will pull out of their predicaments without bankruptcies, which drives up prices for everyone. And, if more U.S. car nameplates are abandoned, competition is decreased which also usually causes prices to increase.
In spite of what appear to be historical highs, the Dow industrials, in terms of real money (gold and silver), are still down 50% from their highs a few years ago, and are still headed lower.
The current rebates on Sonata are still pretty attractive if you have any money or credit left.
Good luck and enjoy these exciting financial times. These are the good old days we'll remember in decades to come.
If your purchase price and financing terms stay the same, help the dealer out and re-do the contract.
What's the harm?
Sounds like they made a paperwork mistake, but are willing to let you keep the benefit of it. They just want to clean up their paperwork.
I don't think you will be able to legally keep the $2,000 and get the 2.9% financing + 1,000... even though it was their mistake!
Go read a site like carbuyingtips.com - especially the part regarding the "come back in and re-sign paperwork" scam dealers pull all the time...
And then there's this if my Dealer made a mistake:
Continued Cooperation.
In the event this order or any other agreement or document executed by Consumer contains a clerical or computation error, Consumer agrees to cooperate with the execution of a corrective Document. Should Consumer disagree with the correction required by Dealer, this Agreement shall, at the Dealer's option, be terminated. Consumer shall execute such other forms, agreements or documents, as may be required by the terms and conditions of payment indicated on this order. including any and all documents requested by dealer and /or the financing institution purchasing the financing from the dealer, and shall cooperate with any reasonable requests for information or Credit/income verification from such institutions.
Then go pay a couple hundred dollars to a lawyer for review. If he says it is harmless to you to sign, sign it, keep a copy and return the signed one to the dealer.
Seems to me your cooperation should be worth 3 oil changes and a detail job during the next year at your convenience. An appreciative dealer might reward you in a similar way in addition to letting you keep the equivalent benefits of any rebates mistakenly included in your original deal.
I bet you negotiated during March when better rebates were in force, but then finally bought after they were no longer technically available. It is also possible that not even the dealer knew of the change in rebates on April 1st when your deal was written.(see Hyundai Sonata 2006+ board: #4873 of 4915 Re: April Incentives [tenpin288] by averigejoe Apr 03, 2006 (4:37 pm) )
Also, you may discover that your original contract contains a (possibly) enforceable provision favoring the dealer if the dealer happens to make a verifiable mistake on the contract.
Do what you want. In any case, good luck!
Responses are much appreciated.
I called this afternoon, but my social security number was not in the system.
Did you get your payoff information?
Thanks,
S
Payoff is a moot point for me since I didn't buy before the end of March. I guess I'll go with the new $2000 rebate and get a GL6 for about the same price as the GL4.
Thanks for the update. Please let us know your outcome with the HMFC payoff.
Gino
I received the following quote on a 2006 GLS V-6, $16,500 plus TTL. This is for with an MSRP of $21,495 and does not include the sunroof (22,395 MSRP, or $900 more). Any feedback? I live in N. California.
I only qualify for the $2,000 Cash rebate, however, is Hyundai still offering the $1,000 finance rebate? Is it true that these rebates can not be combined? I don't qualify for any loyalty, college grad, or military rebates.
The $2000 rebate and $1000 financing rebate can no longer be combined.