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Comments
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When comparing car for car with Accord, Camry, and all the rest the Sonata is a good deal... even at full price.
I got my car at a good price, but could have got it for maybe $500 less. But the stress level would have been too high, and I may have poisoned my relationship with my dealer and sales lady. They are very nice people, and I WANT them to make a buck and be prosperous. I want them to be there in 3 or 4 years when I need warranty work or a favor. If they should go belly-up, I may have to drive 60-90 miles to another dealer.
2) Vehicles purchased in AZ go at the prevailing sales tax rate of the place/city of purchase, not where you live, as in some states. The sales tax rate of 7.8% where I bought the car was the lowest of the 8 dealers I talked with. I think the highest was around 8.3%.
3) Vehicle license tax in AZ (tags, etc.) is based on the price/worth of the vehicle and not a set fee. Also, doc fees are not regulated in AZ like other states (CA has state law of max of $45 I believe). Thus every dealership sets their own ranging from around $249-$399. This is not a negotiable fee and is preprinted on all sales forms. You can negotiate the price of the vehicle lower but it will still look like you paid a huge doc fee no matter what you do. I hate that part of the system here in AZ.
4) I knew that the Hyundai manufacturer rebates for the Sonata GLS V6 were either $2000 or $1000/2.9% so I was confused what the sales manager was offering me and how he was using or getting access to all these rebates, but I wasn't arguing with him about it. But again, part of it was a $1000 dealer rebate/discount and not related to the manufacturer. I also qualify for the college graduate rebate (master's degree) but I understand this was not combinable with the manufacturer's rebates on the V6 so did not get it (or at least several dealers told me so). But maybe if I pressed I could have gotten another $400 off.
The reason I felt I got a good deal was because of canvassing the entire state of AZ. Not only was there no other dealer who came close to this price on the same vehicle, I had several sales managers of other dealerships telling me that if the price I quoted them was correct ($1500 below invoice) that I should buy that car at their competition. If I tried to negotiate further with the place I bought the car at, and was unsatisfied and tried to walk out, where would I go since I already contacted by fax all 15 Hyundai dealerships in AZ? Go to Vegas? NM? LA?
The only way I could have gotten a better deal was wait until the last few days of the month. But this month that is a weekend, so less buying power for those who know prices since they can sell to regular, unknowledgeable weekend shoppers. Would have been better last month when March 31 was a Friday - 5 dead selling days before the end of the month. I wanted to buy then but didn't have all of my down payment organized yet. I also needed to buy soon because my old 96 Pontiac Grand AM was on its last leg, so couldn't wait until the end of April.
So was I satisfied with my purchase? Yes. Are there possible ways I could have gotten a better deal, or somehow was a better negotiator? Of course.
We travel quite a bit, had 3 trips over 1000 miles already. I find the drivers seat to be just fine, especially w/ the lumbar support cranked to the max. If you opt for the base GL it won't have the lumbar support, so I'd recommend the GLS. We also tried the LX and I've had leather-equipped cars before. I love leather once it's fully broken in, but trying it out in the showroom it usually comes across as slick & firm, and the LX is no exception. I'd choose leather over cloth most of the time, but if it's not in your budget I think you'll be happy w/ the cloth seats w/ lumbar, the passenger seat w/out lumbar isn't quite as nice over long drives, I think I'd recommend one of those foam lumbar cushions for your passenger (if you like them, that is, lol)
I am new here. I was just quoted $19,804.75 out the door price for a new 06 GLS V6 cloth interior with the 05 Premium Sport Package. How good of a deal does this sound?
Thanks.
OTD prices are impossible to compare because of all the variables. The sales tax, document fees, and vehicle license taxes are different for each country, state, and/or local area. Also, the rebates offered for any given vehicle changes each month. Not all people qualify for all rebates as some depend on credit score, military service, college grad, etc. The only thing that can be compared is the relationship of a price offered by a dealer to the actual invoice price.
For instance, I paid $20,445 last week for the same car, before rebates. This was $1500 below invoice price.
Without knowing the breakdown of how much you're paying for the actual car before rebates, it's hard to say whether or not it's a good price. I'm assuming the price you were quoted also includes all rebates that you qualify for.
50 different people in all 50 states could all buy a car at the same price but would have 50 different OTD prices when all the variables are added up!
Would like to know what other people are paying in VA for Sonata'06 LX.
Also, Is this is a good price or still there any chance to get better by $500 - $1000?
Thanks in advance.
If you read all 1900 posts here, you will find a few from VA. However this is not important if you really want the Car. And saving $500 or $1000 more, why stop there?. When you make the Deal (a.k.a. the "offer") post back!.
MSRP => 22,895
Edmunds Invoice price => $20,961 (excluding Deliverycharge)
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Negociated price >17,700
Dealer Handling & Delivery => $600
TTL (VA) => $998
OTD => $19,298
I think it good deal and I'm really happy with my Dark Cinamon color. Any comments guys? What do you think ..is it good deal? I have no problem hearing both side :-)
Thanks
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That car is an excellent value at $23K. At $19.2 OTD, it's simply a steal. Enjoy it!
I am trying to get $18000 after rebates but before TTL. I have loyalty and have had no luck so far
I know I asked if I got a good deal on here after I purchased my Sonata and it sounds like I got a fair deal. Maybe not the best, but certainly not the worst. Honestly, if I didn't get a good deal, I'd want to hear about it because in the end, it's a major purchase. If I'm getting taken for $2000 more than what others are paying, I want to know.
The time to tell you if you got a lousy deal (and the time to ask that question) is before you close the deal. Afterwards, all it can do is make you unhappy, which a new car owner should not be.
I'm looking at buying a new car within the next few weeks. My friend told me that after I buy a car, I can always legally return it within three days if I decide I don't want it. Is this true?
No. There is no three-day right to return a new car. If you sign a contract to buy a car, it's yours. Your friend is probably getting car sales confused with door-to-door sales. Texas law does allow a "cooling off period" that permits someone to return items they bought from door-to-door sales within three days.
I don't think anyone questions why members would post re price/deal after the fact. That's what this discussion is all about (and before-the-fact too). The question was about people who ask, after the deal is done, "Did I get a good deal?" As long as they don't mind hearing, "No, you got a rotten deal, you knucklehead" or words to that effect, go right ahead.
The only way to avoid the curse? Don't buy anything.
Maybe you should have offered to pay in renimnbi.
At just 10% interest, I'll be ahead after 5 years.
If you had taken the rebate you would have had to finance elsewhere and pay $4,500 interest over 5 years, according to you.
So on a $30,000 car, you are paying at 0% interest, $30,000 over 5 years.
I pay cash and get it for $27,000 and invest the extra $3,000 at 10% and it be worth $4,830 in 5 years. Out of pocket after 5 years, $30,000 - $4,830 = $25,170.
Yes, you can get a better deal at 0% interest than 5.5% interest but not a better deal than cash with a rebate.
Number 1 rule of finance - Never borrow money on a depreciating asset.
This is not always true. What if you can get a loan for lets say 5%. Then you can take the money you had planned on for the car and invest it at 10%. Seems like a net of 5% to me.
Can you please advice me what price should I start my quote to them?
These are just some general suggestions, there's lots of ways to approach this. It takes some time and fortitude. At worst, you can accept their original offer.
I was thinking of offeric them around 17.5K before rebates.
If they agree then I think I should take it if not I am thinking their initial offer is not bad either since I am going to get 500 rebate and also 400 graduation rebate...
What you all think???
for $14875 out of the door, even considering our $2900 rebates.
You could do a better job after shopping around.
Did you get GLS V6???
I don't get you Backy. This guy can buy a GLS or an LX for $17.9K, and you are telling him it's a good deal?. Remind me not to go Car shopping with you anytime soon.
Right now the rebates are slanted towards the V6 models, but with the price of gas it will be hard to justify.
Also, he said he was looking for a GL, not a GLS. I can walk into a local dealer today and get a GLS V6 with moonroof for $17,995 with no negotiations needed (including owner loyalty rebate). With negotiations, who knows? But that is a different car, different rebates, different story.
GL auto $14500-15000
GLS V6 $16500
LX no options $18900
$17k is way too much for a GL. that's almost into camcord price range for base models.
Well, I guess 100% of those folks who finance a vehicle purchase are breaking the rule. Unfortunately, not everyone is in a position to pay cash for a new vehicle. I know it's best, and have done so a few times, but sometimes financing is unavoidable.
If everyone strictly adhered to that rule, not only would GM and Ford be out of business, so would Honda, Toyota, Nissan, Hyundai, and everyone else! Not to mention the financial hit felt by the banks and credit unions around the country . . .
.....but they do keep the auto companies, banks and credit unions afloat for 40-60 years of their lives.
This is for GLS I4, not for GLS LX. My apology