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Mazda6 Sedan

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Comments

  • jgriffjgriff Member Posts: 362
    like not seeing too many 6's on road. In my neck of the woods I have not seen very few. Being that I have a black SP, it almost like I've got a one of a kind.
  • carguy58carguy58 Member Posts: 2,303
    What state do you live in?
  • jgriffjgriff Member Posts: 362
    that 1-2% ratio may be the number that Honda wants everyone to believe. I personally think that it is a much higher number. I never drove my CL very hard, almost babied it and it still crapped out.

    And yes, why are they still having the same blasted problem 3 years later!! Needless to say, I scratched the new TSX & TL off my list.
  • jgriffjgriff Member Posts: 362
    Kansas, Wichita pop. just over 300k. Its not very big.
  • carguy58carguy58 Member Posts: 2,303
    people mostly drive domestic Big 3 cars don't they?
  • mazdamarlamazdamarla Member Posts: 350
    Lots Toyota and Honda and Nissans here in West Michigan!
  • alpha01alpha01 Member Posts: 4,747
    Seems to be blown a bit out of proportion at times- remember, posters here are more likely to voice serious issues- the purpose of these boards is to SHARE information.

    The issues seems akin to the Toyota sludge problem, which in the scheme of things, seems to have affected relatively few owners. Nonetheless, Honda has not done the best thing PR wise, as Toyota eventually did- offer a special policy adjustment on the warranty for owners of the possibly affected cars.

    I dont think that Honda has "hidden" the issue from JD Power or CR... think of the logistics with making that possible.. seems implausible. I just think that its a flaw, a serious defect, that afflicts relatively few owners.

    ~alpha
  • carguy58carguy58 Member Posts: 2,303
    Yeah probably in Western Michigan there's alot of imports as is here in Jersey. In Detroit though its Domestic Big 3 land from what I here. Where I live we have a lot of Ford and Chevy trucks on the roads. Lots of Jetta and Passat's. Honda and Toyota galore here too. Lots of BMW 3 Series here too.
  • buggywhipbuggywhip Member Posts: 188
    I priced the Mazda6 oil filter at the dealer (it's not yet available aftermarket). The dealer wants $7.00 for the filter and an additional $4.00 for the O-rings. It's nutz. I pay $2.00 for my oil filter now. That pricey oil filter is a big reason I'm reconsidering buying a 6 now. And don't forget how difficult it is to install..........I recently learned that the 6 is now selling at projected levels. But the slow rollout surely caused heads to roll at Mazda.
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    But it's not like the Toyota sludge issue. There are a lot of things that just don't add up. Honda came right out and said that the problem only affects "1-2%" of the vehicles, which implies:

    #1. They know what is causing the failures
    #2. They have fixed the issue

    Well, they haven't fixed the issue and if they know what is causing it, and they know which cars are affected, why haven't they attempted to fix "1-2%" of the vehicles? Lots of conflicting "facts".
  • carguy58carguy58 Member Posts: 2,303
    adressed because it can't be ignored anymore. How come when Mazda had their tranny isssue in 94 everybody left the brand and Mazda sales when down the tank for a few years before the kinda shot up when the economy got good again? Honda and Toyota sales don't seemed to be affected by their issues. Was it because it was a Ford Part that scared people with the 626? A blown tranny is a blown tranny no matter what manufacturer makes it. a blown Acura tranny in a TL or a blown Ford tranny in a 626 is no different: its still a blown tranny. Just like Chocolate Ice Cream is still Chocolate ice cream.
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    That's just the way it is. It's funny that Honda is having transmission issues, just like Mazda did almost 10 years ago. Those issues are still haunting Mazda, yet people are willing to forgive Honda for tranny issues that are happening right now......and Honda can't even blame Ford for it.
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    is still an issue when Honda (and Honda fans) likes to promote their cars because of top quality and resale value and the reality is that the record is not quite so perfect.
  • dinu01dinu01 Member Posts: 2,586
    "That pricey oil filter is a big reason I'm reconsidering buying a 6 now."

    That's in the same line of reasoning as a poster who chose a G35 over te RX-8 b/c the carpet did not seem as rich in the Mazda like it was in the Infinity.

    How many times a year will you change the oil? 4-5times at most? So let's say you pay an extra $5 for the filter and I heard the ring doesn't have to be replaced every time - is that correct? Even if it was, the M6 shines above the competition in terms of driving fun and value, so you can go to another brand and pay more for the car, but save yoruself $50/yr... Your call.

    Dinu
  • carguy58carguy58 Member Posts: 2,303
    an Acura but I don't think its perfect. I'm sure Honda has worked their tranny issue's out by now but their sales didn't drop like a rock like Mazda's did in 95. The 626 4 cyl auto tranny issue was just like the TL/CL Type S, 98-02 Accord V6 tranny issue. It is no different.
  • akumazakumaz Member Posts: 65
    I live in the Chicago area, and most of the cars I see are in the "Big 3". The others are usually Hondas (Accords), Acuras, Lexus, and Toyota. Speaking of Honda, I test drove the Accord coupe a few weeks ago for a change of pace. Truth be told, I can't understand how they are so popular. The steering was WAY too light, the interior seemed cheap and clunky, and the overall ride was nothing special. The whole time I was comparing it to the 6- which probably wasn't fair- and that put things into perspective.

    Too bad I won't be able to get my 6 for another few months now. Due to an extreme emergency, I will be short money for awhile. So I pushed back getting a 6 until the end of the year. It'll give me a chance to save towards one with all the features I truly want.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    is off-topic and out of place in this discussion.

    Many of you know how much trouble goes on in here when we get into extended conversation about the Accord.

    It's not going to happen this time. :)

    Take it to an Accord discussion please.
  • ian2ian2 Member Posts: 168
    I'm used to the Accord EX-L's elegant interior with leather and aluminum trim and it took me a while to get around the painted plastic dash and flimsy sun-visor and sunglasses holder of the 6. Clunky is hardly the word to describe the Accord's interior as every switch and cover operates with fluid smoothness. Compared to GM, Mazda is still not to shabby.
  • flatlinerflatliner Member Posts: 11
    To Cuban2: If you haven't already purchased the car, go ahead and get the Bose system. It's like night and day from the standard system, plus you get the 6 disc changer. I've never had a changer before in a car. I thought "who would want that?". Well, since I've had mine for about a month now, I LOVE the changer. But that's NOT the reason to get the Bose system. It's for the SOUND, and it's SO much better. (By the way, I'm not a fan of Bose normally. But for this car, it's the way to go).
  • seafseaf Member Posts: 339
    I thought about the 6i's oil changing for DIYers. The hassle seems only to be removing the undercar plastic cover. The actual filter and canister don't seem too hard. As for price for the filter and o-rings, I'm sure the prices will come down once aftermarket makers come into the market. So to me it's not a big enough issue to not choose Mazda6.
  • cookie01cookie01 Member Posts: 369
    If you've not decided, make sure you get the Bose if you care about the sound system.
    Is Bose the best? Naw... but it's better than the stock, and replacing the stock with another "after market" system will be a pain and very spendy.

    A co-worker just bought a Mercedes C class. His wife HATES the stock stereo and now wishes they'd have waited for a car w/ Bose. When he called aftermarket shops about replacing his stock stereo the prices were crazy and they'd have to mount just about everything in the trunk...
    Guess they're just going to live with it.
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    The plastic shroud is the only hassle and it's not even that bad. It's only 7 bolts and a plastic fastener. If anyone here has changed oil on an Audi with a plastic shoud, the Mazda6 will be a piece of cake. On Audis, the plastic shroud goes up into the fenders, the Mazda piece is flat and much easier to deal with.

    Once you do the first oil change, every change after that will be simple. The filter canister cap is tight the first time, other than that, it's really easy. The location of the filter is excellent, all you have to do is unscrew a cap, replace filter, then screw the cap back on. You don't need to replace the O-rings every oil change either.

    If you're a DIYer, this oil change shouldn't be a problem and it definetely shouldn't be the only thing keeping someone from buying this car.
  • seafseaf Member Posts: 339
    thanks for the info on the oil change. What does the clearance look like under the car? I find most car jacks that are supposedly designed for cars can't raise cars high enough, I find SUV/truck jacks are much better. Can the oil change be done without raising the car?

    Also anyone know if it's possible to drill a hole big enough for the drain plug and filter area so you wouldn't have to take off the shroud every time?
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Member Posts: 1,007
    ... is it would be the first to show signs of any oil or other fluid leakages by containing them, rather than letting it drip onto the road/parking spot. I'd leave the shroud unmodified and check it (its underside/inside) every time :)
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    Yes, you have to raise the car to do the oil change, unless you are VERY skinny. Invest in a set of "Rhino Ramps" from Wal Mart, they'll make your life easier.

    And I don't know about cutting holes in the plastic shroud. I'm not sure what the purpose of the shroud is on the Mazda, but on Audis it helped direct air into the radiator. I wouldn't mess with it. My guess is that if you could do it, Mazda would have already done it.
  • chimpsnestchimpsnest Member Posts: 27
    Going to test drive, and maybe buy the 6 this weekend. I'm wondering if any of you have gotten an extended warranty 10/100? and what the cost was? I have vowed to never again buy a new car w/o getting the extended warranty.

    I'd rather spend the extra dough and not have worries.
    Thanks
  • dinu01dinu01 Member Posts: 2,586
    You can buy the extended warranty anytime until the basis bumper-to-bumper 3yrs/50Kmiles expires.

    Sorry, I don't have a price for you, but don't forget that that too is negotiable.

    Dinu
  • cubfan2cubfan2 Member Posts: 18
    What should one think about the Owners Manual calling for shifting to occur in the 6 S at 17 MPH (to 2nd gear); 26 MPH (to third gear); 33 MPH (to fourth gear); 39 (to fifth gear)...(or close to these figures). Why does Mazda do this? It feels alot more natural to shift at 20MPH (to 2nd gear), 30MPH (to third), 45 MPH to fourth gear; 60 MPH to fifth gear...I don't understand.
  • ian2ian2 Member Posts: 168
    One should always shift at the redline, regardless of the speed.
  • dinu01dinu01 Member Posts: 2,586
    You;re kidding, right?

    Shifting at red line (6500RPMs in the M6 I believe) puts too much strain on the car. You can do it, but I would never do this on a regular basis. I would shift at 3000-3500RPMs, although I know ppl that shift before that at 2500-3000 and ppl that shift later at 3500-4500.

    Any other opinions?

    And yes what the manual suggests seems too low for me too :)

    Dinu
  • seafseaf Member Posts: 339
    Just to clarify, traction control only limits acceleration if the tires are not gripping. stability control (offered only in luxury cars currently) help keep your car under control when it'd about to slide off the road sideways.

    I hope people don't get the false sense of security like some people do with 4WD in snow. TCS and 4WD only help provide traction when you're trying to accelerate, neither will be much help when you're cruising along and swerve suddenly to try to avoid an obstacle.

    Also along these lines, ABS do not make you stop sooner, it allows you to brake AND steer to avoid an obstacle. Sometimes ABS can make the braking distance longer than non-ABS. It's amazing what some of the car marketing departments have led us to believe these days.
  • jhtlagjhtlag Member Posts: 39
    But one could argue that if you just start to hydroplane in a forward direction your acceleration (speed?) would be limited and you would maintain grip? More likely, though just having a new set of tires was what I was really feeling. As for the other stuff agree, agree, agree, agree. I have a blast sitting in my townhouse on snowy days watching the 4Xers losing it as they come down the hill (one took out a lamp post late last winter).

    lag
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    To be honest, I never even read that part in the owner's manual.

    I shift when it feels and sounds right and that depends on a complicated set of signals my brain sends to my appendages telling them to be in haulin' butt mode or good fuel economy mode or somewhere in between----it's continuously variable. Who needs an automatic transmission or the owner's manual deciding when you shift?
  • boxfanboxfan Member Posts: 180
    seaf--CR tests tires with and without ABS engaged, and they commented that "Generally, disengaging the ABS on wet surfaces lengthened braking distances." I've heard that ABS can lengthen braking distances on gravel or snow, but I would rather have shorter braking distances in the rain (the problem in snow is usually going, not stopping). I have also read that people get a false sense of security with ABS and they don't end up reducing accidents in the real world (just like AWD), but I still believe in 'em.
  • buggywhipbuggywhip Member Posts: 188
    I once owned a car that "aided" shifting by illuminating a little upshift arrow at the optimum shift points. The arrow's suggestions were remarkably conservative and did not utilize the car's power.......my point is, people buy a stick so they can shift when THEY like to shift. It's a personal thing. I surely don't recommend shifting at redline every time but one needn't shift like you're driving a 1957 boxy milk truck either.......the MZ6 loves to rev, so rev it!!!!
  • alpha01alpha01 Member Posts: 4,747
    I'm pretty sure you can get stability control on certain higher trim Focus models, and its optional on Camry V6s, so its more pedestrian than you make it sound. I imagine its not long before this innovation is available on more models, at a more reasonable cost.

    ~alpha
  • microrepairmicrorepair Member Posts: 508
    And then there were domestic big 3 cars with automatic transmissions and sluggish 4 or 6 cylinder engines back in the 70's that had those little lights telling people when to shift, for fuel economy reasons. Once when driving my mother's car she asked me if I wasn't going too fast because that little light was on. I can only imagine how slow she must have been driving and being amazed that she never got rear-ended. I told her to ignore that light. She was 70 at the time..

    When I needed to change the oil on our new Toyota Matrix about 6 months after introduction of the car, I had to get the filter at the dealer for about $7. Now I can get them anyplace for about $3-4 and they aren't unique to the Matrix either, even though they put "new" part numbers on the same filter used on most Toyotas. Just another corporate scam..

    PLEASE do not get under a car that is on a jack. Use jack stands or ramps.. I've seen jacks collapse.. Or tilt to one side...
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    Stopping with ABS is always preferable to 1) skidding, 2) loss of control, 3) ability to brake and steer under control. ABS will not engage if your tires are not skidding. If your tires are skidding ABS will stop the car in a shorter distance under control. And 99% of the time it is preferable to stop with ABS, than have any of the above happen. I've heard that ABS lengthens stopping distance on gravel, but how many people drive on gravel as a matter of course in their daily lives? Probably not many, so I think that point is moot. ABS combined with stability control is a winning combination. It's just another safety device, but these are not miracle technologies, they need help from the driver.
  • lmp180psulmp180psu Member Posts: 399
    is becoming more prevalent. As alpha01 pointed out, the Ford Focus has their stability control ( called AdvanceTrac) available on ZX3, ZX5, and ZTS models. Focus also offers traction control as a stand alone option. In some areas, there is a package discount for getting the ABS and AdvanceTrac together, which bring the cost down to only about $500 for both, which I believe is a great price for these safety items. Combined with the above average handling of the Focus, this makes it one of the safest cars when trying to avoid accidents IMO.

    Does Mazda offer stability control on the 6?
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    None on the '6, even though they said it would be available in the press material before the car came out. Surprising on an all new model.

    The cheapest stability control option is on the VW Jetta, Golf, and Passat models. It's a mere $280. Nice price for such an important safety feature.
  • seafseaf Member Posts: 339
    Thanks to those for pointing out more availability of stability control. This is good news, hopefully soon it will be available in every car just like airbags and ABS brakes did from a few years ago to now.

    Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying no ABS is better than ABS, just that ABS is not a "wonder-feature". I am definitely getting this option in my next car. And the mazda6's ABS package includes EBD, which should also help stop better since it distributes the brake force to to get the optimum power on all wheels, unlike normal hydraulics, where the wheel that has the strongest hydraulic pressure in the lines gets the best grip. This scenario probably contributes to its share of warped rotors too (too much pressure centralized on one caliper)
  • cookie01cookie01 Member Posts: 369
    My husband's stripper Ford Ranger is a stick and has NO TACH! yep... so you just have to know when to shift. Very funny that a manual would tell you at what speed to shift. I agree with the earlier post that it depends on the conditions. In the Ranger I shift from 4-5 at about 45 mph. However, if I were climbing a hill I might still be in 3rd at 45... lousy 4-cyl no guts...grumble, grumble...
  • kenokakenoka Member Posts: 218
    Shift points listed in owner's manuals are invariably canted toward optimal fuel economy. They are basically the minimum points you can consistently shift at without lugging the engine.
  • sildogsildog Member Posts: 50
    "One should always shift at the redline, regardless of the speed."

    I was already laughing when the "shiftpoint" question regarding the owners manual was even asked! Then your answer knocked me from my chair in hysterics!

    Then I became very sad when so many thought you were serious!!!! I am surprised we didn't have a 50 post discussion on redlines!
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    Don't forget the Focus ZTW (wagon) also has available stability control.

    Given that the Focus will now have the Mazda 2.3 liter engine, and it handles better, and rides as well as the 6 in my opinion (it is a tad noisier though), and you can custom order it anyway you want it (leather with ABS and Traction Control and a stick shift all together). It is also available as a wagon right now. I am starting to lean in that direction.

    Only thing to wait for is reliability, which seems to be improving - we shall see how it fares when the next consumer reports reliabliity data comes out in December (it is first published in their new car preview magazine - prior to their anual auto issue in April).
  • dinu01dinu01 Member Posts: 2,586
    Yeah it's weird how this one didn't get its fair share of attention :)

    Of course if you've ever been in the Protege room, you'll know that there have been numerous discussions on discs-vs-drums.

    Any cool topics? Anyone?

    I'll start: spoiler or no spoiler on the M6 sedan? I vote for a spoiler, although this is one of the VERY few cars that looks good even without one, like the A4 or 3/5-series.

    Dinu
  • seafseaf Member Posts: 339
    I still prefer the Mazda6, it is mostly designed by Mazda with a ford-based duratec V6. Whereas the Ford focus is mostly Ford designed with a mazda engine... You see where the problems are likely to occur? Ford designed products and then sold as Mazdas haven't had a very good record in the past.

    Besides, by that time, Mazda6 may already have some of the missing features that some people have been complaining about, such as navigation, stability control...etc.
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    I vote no spoiler, obviously, because that's what I bought. I guess I just lucked out because Mazda was giving the deals on the model I prefered.

    When I bought my 2001 Protege ES, it came standard with a spoiler. I asked the salesman if they would swap trunk lids with another silver Protege without a spoiler, and they wouldn't do it because of brake light issues. I think the Protege looks better without a spoiler too.
  • fowler3fowler3 Member Posts: 1,919
    anyway you look at it, anything added to it takes the eye away from its exceptional lines and focuses it on plastic add-ons. Are you buying the car or the GFX?

    fowler3
  • 1wiseguy1wiseguy Member Posts: 120
    If you aren't redlining it (or at least shifting north of 4500), you probably bought a Honyota.
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