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Comments
NO SPORT
NO APPEARANCE
NO SPOILER
After scouring through the dealer lots the whole day, the only color that seemed to stay in the liking(and not become a turn off) was Glacier Silver and Onyx Black.
Out of those two, only the Onyx Black looked GOOD without any body cladding aka sport/appearance package.
To me the black 6 with the red taillights and gray leather seemed to feel upscale in a very decent manner.
Anything wrong in my thinking?
Any rebuttals?
Anybody in agreement?
Please do discuss on this before I end up signing the papers.
a) a troll
or
b) a troll
Dinu
I definitely like what you're talking about. I personally HATE the side skirts, but will gladly take a raised rear spoiler. Even without one, the M6 looks VERY sharp.
If you have the 17" wheels, the car will look and feel more expensive than it is.
Now my PRO is silver and it looks good. It also stays clean, although if you run your hand over it it will often reveal a different shade of silver
Good luck!
Dinu
Have you ever had a black car before though? I had a black Integra. Black is definately on another level compared to silver as far as paint maintenance. It will look dusty 2 hours after you washed it. You will see swirl marks on your brand new car. If you live where they use salt, you'll have a salt & pepper 6 half the year.
I love the way black looks, but after the Integra, it's been 2 silver cars in a row for me.
My 6s does not have the Sport Packedge, and IMO is more up scale looking than the cars with the spoilers, and skirts. Especially the darker colors such as the Black and Steel Grey. I also like the Sepang Green with the Beige Leather. Very Euro IMO.
Mark. : )
Had White, turqouise, green, bitter yellow/green before.
IMHO, i would rather spend the money on the interior than exterior, especially if the exterior looks sharp enough.
did I mention I have the moonroof and 6-cd changer?
the only external option i am going for is fog-lamps.
the price runs up to 20814.00 + TTL(1248.84 + 125)
Is it a good deal?
These days Honda is simply churning out very reliable automobiles that, well, in all honesty are not that much fun to drive. They are produced in the hundreds of thousands, can been seen at every intersection, and have no exclusivity . They are becoming similar to a high quality pair of shoes. Well built, comfortable, and owned by hundreds of thousands of others.
IMO it boils down to simply being frustrated. They long for the styling and visceral connections we make with our automobiles. We also make easy targets as we do not spread doom and gloom in other threads. The vast majority of Mazda owners in here, while having strong opinions, keep them in here.
I apologize for the diatribe, but this is a topic that constantly irks me to no end.
Mark. : )
If you've not decided, make sure you get the Bose if you care about the sound system.
Ha- my stereo cost about $300 and could have been installed in a day. It sounds much better than the Bose system in all respects.Is Bose the best? Naw... but it's better than the stock, and replacing the stock with another "after market" system will be a pain and very spendy.
To do better than the Bose system for less money, all that is needed is a used amplifier off of eBay (mine was $37.50 and sounds great), front component speakers ($100), and a subwoofer ($60). Intrusive boxes are cheap, and custom boxes are expensive. If you don't get a subwoofer, choose your door speakers wisely. Even if you don't do the install yourself, you're still several hundred less than the Bose and the sound will be better- far better- too.
Shifting at red line (6500RPMs in the M6 I believe) puts too much strain on the car. You can do it, but I would never do this on a regular basis. I would shift at 3000-3500RPMs, although I know ppl that shift before that at 2500-3000 and ppl that shift later at 3500-4500.
This from a Protege driver for sure. The '6 has a much different engine. While the Protege does well with 3500rpm shifts, the '6 doesn't come alive until that range. It is optimized for higher RPMs, and runs its best in the 3000-5000rpm range. I shift above 5000rpm regularly, and hit redline often. No sweat- that's what the engine is made for. If you have concerns over this, use synthetic oil.Engines are built for different revs. Actually, the Protege chugs along at >3500rpm on the highway- does that mean you don't exceed 75mph? My old 1.6l Celica wouldn't move until it broke 4000rpm, so it was always stressed. It looked great at 80,000 miles, when I looked at the engine.
I assure you, revving the engine is fine. Some engines are built to be driven this way. Just be sure to keep changing your oil so the fast-moving, hard-working seals are always lubricated with clean oil.
On the race course, the pro time was 28.9, I think, and I got a 31.6 on my first run on the big course. That would have been pretty good- well into the 500's for points- had I not hit that cone. I still don't what cone I hit or where I hit it, since I got so close to all of them and didn't feel a thump.
Second run was slower, 32 something, but I didn't hit any cones. Being later in the day, I felt more comfortable and ran harder- too hard. I did more skidding and lost more speed, even though it felt faster. As they say, smoothness counts, and my first, less-aggressive run was faster.
It seemed like 90% of the people there got either a 33.xx or 37.xx, so I guess 32 is still ok. I wanted to get on the board though.
I got a 16.7 on the practice course- that was better than any girl for the day, at least. Best time for the track was a 14.9 at the time. Once again, my first run was less aggressive, and had the better time.
I had a lot of fun, except I kept getting slower thoughout the day. My friend was behind me at the slolem, and when he pulled up for his "tip", he said "do it like that guy."
I liked the slolem- I did that one twice.
The literature they handed out sure did advertise the RX-8 a lot. It seemed to be the highlight of the show, not the Mazda6.
I didn't think the Eibach springs on the competition Mazda6's made much of a difference, believe it or not. The sure did feel a lot better when on a friend's Mazda6, but on the race track I didn't feel any more or less in control. Count me out on buying Eibachs now. Those Falken tires, however, ruled. Bosal exhausts too.
The biggest thing I learned was about what a sports car is. A sports car does what you tell it to do. Immediately. Sports cars are about response, and doing what the driver wants. I sure did feel that when racing- the Mazda6 felt very predictable, but it was slow to respond to throttle, weight shifts, etc. I think Go-Karts, then, are the ultimate sports cars
That said, the Mazda6's did a far better job around the race courses than I thought possible. I had problems with understeer, for sure, since all that weight was in the front, but a better driver would have driven in such a way that would avoid it. The '6 felt amazing through the slolem despite its heft. It took a while to realize just how fast the car could go through those cones! Pretty darn impressive for a "family" sedan, eh?
When I first drove an auto V6 there, I thought it seemed really fast- way faster than my i4 manual. Then, I grew used to it. Then, I got in my car to go home, and even with an extra passenger, thought my car felt faster up until highway speeds. I definately felt that my car has less pronounced understeer and less severe weight shifts, and was happy driving my car home. I got a few looks later that day as I did some screeching, full-brake, full-turn, and then full-throttle turns.
I definately appreciated driving an automatic while at the competition though. It was one less thing to worry about. I used the sport shift mode and just left in in 2nd, which was good ONLY if you could keep your speed up. Once I lost my momentum, and I definately could've used a shift then. Nonetheless, the automatic really did help leave the concentration on the driving- which was the hardest part.
The drivers kept saying how important it was to look ahead. Well, the only time I found that easy to do was during the slolem, where I focused on the last cone. Hence, I ruled the slolems (or so I felt) and had trouble elsewhere. I tried to memorize the course to know what was ahead, but it never translated the way I expected to. I'd think "left turn", and it'd be gradual, or decreasing radius, or something more than what I had planned for. My one complaint was not getting enough track time to learn the track.
Especially in DC, where the track went over a hill, so we could only really see half of it.
that said, i own an emerald green mica Pro as of now, and that too is a dark color. I beleive if I can live with it, i will be able to with the black too.
Stretch, how do you get an aftermarket stereo in the Mz6?
stretch - awesome account of your day. very informative. If only I knew how to drive stick, then I'd have at least a clue what you're talking about half the time!
u said what I wanted to hear.
Isn't that what one wants to listen to?
capitano, I agree with you on colors, beige with black looks very Euro and so would beige with Lapis Blue, but Mazda doesn't offer that combo. Saw it at the Frankfurt Int.Motor Show (1993) on a Ferrari. Very sharp! Of course, one could order the Lapis Blue with cloth and buy the aftermarket beige leather upgrade. The steering wheel and dash would still be dark grey. It looks almost like black.
The chrome trunk finisher also comes with chrome door guard covers if you want a K-car look. LOL For those who don't remember the K-car, they were those boxy sedans Chrysler turned out in the early 80's. They had lots of aluminum trim all over them -- especially on the wheel arches.
fowler3
As for the M6's 2.3L engine, I would expect it to rev less since it is a larger engine. I still haven't driven one with the I4 (:
I just might go to Mazda this wk as I'm due for an oil change and since they do it quickly and it costs as much as at one of those quick-lube places, why not? I'll have to discuss any special promotions and see if it would be wise to trade the PRO for an M6...
Dinu
Dinu really misses driving the Pro. I don't blame him, I think about trading my Pro and worry that I may wish I still had it if the next car isn't what I expected of it.
fowler3
We don't have the type of incentives available in the US, so I don't think it will wor out -no 0%, no $1000+ Mazda loyalty...
Dinu
The Chrome package adds the rear chrome moustace, and the door protector protectors (there's the blue plastic one on the moulding, and the chrome sliver on top of it!).
The Appearance Package, however, I wouldn't dispense with. I love the look of the car with the lower (lipped) front and rear bumpers, and would probably have held off on buying one if the Sport Package (which did not have the cash and APR incentives) were the only way to get that look. Side sills I'm non-commital about, although I feel they improve the look on the whole.
I also have the oval chrome exhaust tips - don't remember off-hand if they're part of the Chrome or the Appearance package, but they look awesome and (supposedly) sound a tiny bit more rumbly. Someone (redrum for those who know him) who has a Lapis Blue Sport Package 6i noticed them, and oddly enough, his car doesn't have them. So perhaps they're add-ons over-and-above the Sport Package? Or did his car just come without them?
Oh yeah - the Sport Grille - the Blue looks approximately 74 trillion times better with it (compared to the chrome moustache). If I didn't have/add that - I would have painted the chrome moustache body colored as stretchsje did to his Redfire!
As for seeing silver 6's, silver is the most fashionable color these days (I see it on laptops, mp3 players, cellphones, furniture, and of course cars). I can say the same thing about seeing a lot of 03 silver accords. Mazda, just like any other manufacturer, tries to meet demand, if people want silver cars, then they make more silver cars. Simple demand and supply.
Also, warm climate areas tend to have more cars that have lighter colors than colder climate areas. I've personally seen a bunch of black Mazda6's around here more than any other color. It might've even been the same car, from seeing it first with dealer plates, to regular plates, and since I don't remember the plates of every mazda6, it's very likely I saw the same car more than once.
there has been talk that they may add two more 6 colors this year. Not sure if this is true or if it will only pertain to the hatchback/wagon models coming early next year.
regardless, no titanium will be coming to our shores. :-(
fowler3
I'm curious to know which dealership you bought it from so I can avoid it.
1. If you've tried the MP3 player out. How is the MP3 access speed? I know of some MP3 players that take about 1-2 seconds to process the next song. The same question goes for scanning speed. Can the MP3 player scan through a 4-minute song in 1 minute or less?
2. Since the MP3 player is $276 vs. $416 for the 6-changer. (see http://www.mazdastuff.com/directory.cfm?CategoryID=209&recPos- =21) How likely would it be for a dealer to slash $140 off the car sale price if the MP3 is installed instead of the 6-changer (BOSE/6changer upgrade)? or must it be purchased separately?
About the Brake Dust Problem:
3. I hear of problems with Brake dust accumulation during the first few months of use. Does this problem lessen with use? Do we have to "break in" the pads because they are softer? How does the dust accumulation affect performance?
However, if you got it out of their inventory, and you noticed a big jump in the odometer reading from when you signed the preliminary papers, someone at the dealer has been using your car in the interim.
If you ORDERED your car, I would be seriously pissed at having over 100 miles on it when I took delivery.
However, from a financial standpoint, 110 miles should fetch some cash compensation for you either on the price or some perks, especially if it was from inventory - less if it was on the lot. If they insist it's from inventory, Id call them on it and even get Mazda USA involved.
Dinu
Who'll do anything to take the PRO for a spin
2. Swapping out 6CD in a Bose for MP3 - check if the 6CD in the bose is identical (pinout, amp etc) to the 'standard' add-on 6CD. If not (amp or impedance issues), then the MP3 swap wouldn't be feasible either. If identical, remember that a CRAZY amount of labor time is needed to access the players - so if the dealer does the swap at no extra cost (over the price of 6CD), they're taking
140 for the removal and re-installation labour.
ps: The MP3 player by itself seems a little louder than the old CD player - I run the system at lower average volumes than I used to - since I had mine installed.
3. Brake dust - wash the wheels well once, then wax them with a good wax (I use Meguiar's Gold Class for the car and my leftover Turtle Wax 2001 for the wheels!). The brak dust won't stick as easily, and the little that does, will wash off a lot easier when you rinse the wheels. Remember to let the brakes/rotors/wheels cool down before rinsing them to eliminate one major cause of rotor warping!
I have really never been able to understand why new car buyers are so obsessed about a few extra miles or kilometres on their vehicles. Then they turn around and whine about about the break-in period. People are weird.
Because when you buy a brand new car, you want it to be BRAND NEW. With my new car, I like know that I drove it for the entire break in period. Who knows who drove those 100 miles and how they drove? Did they follow the break-in proceedures? Do they care? Was it an older person who drove it down, or a pimply faced lot boy that ran it hard to redline every chance he got?
The break in period is very important and I wouldn't want anyone messing it up on my car.
If you want an absolutely NEW car go to the factory and drive it off the assembly line yourself, stay with it 'til it is delivered. ROTFL!
fowler3