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at Fitzmall.
I waited 2 days for my fully loaded TCH at $699 off of msrp.
Do your Hoemwork!
Do your Hoemwork!
Isn't that what monitoring/participating in this forum is...doing homework? People sharing their knowledge and experience so we can all learn and benefit from that knowledge.
angie
I sure hope I don't end up as a poster in the Woes forum.
Sorry I didn't notice your post earlier. I'm in Jane Lew. I bought the first one at Buckhannon Auto Mall. They treated me well (but then again I bought 5 cars off of then in the last year). I've never had much luck at Cava's and the former owner in Fairmont. I could have dealt in Charleston where I have bought several Toyotas but I wanted to buy local if treated righ. They wanted my business and I wanted a TCH before the June 5th deadline for the WV Tax Credit ($3750)
But what is "real" city driving? Is driving around little 'ole Buckhannon at 25-35 mph "real" city driving? Any insights based on your TCH experience driving in central WV?
We don't have "real" city driving around here like some of the areas discussed on this forum. We have highway and rural 55 mph roads. Driving from Jane Lew to Buckhannon I get 38 mpg over to Lowes but by the time I'm back home I'm at 42 mpg (Buckhannon Mountain really helps that) I'm averaging 39 mpg over almost 11,000 miles but I work at it. I wouldn't think less than 36 would be possible in our area unless you're doing a lot of 5 mile commuting daily. Driving around Weston is almost all battery if I work at it and the back roads around Jacksons Mill are 46+ (my high is 57 on a 15 mile loop)
I have a 4Runner as well and if the HH will tow 3500# I may consider trading at some point. 25 mpg does not justify trading but if I were reconsidering I would have bought the HH. I don't put a lot of miles on the 4Runner.
I like the new RAV4 and for resale and overall cost to own and utility it's hard to beat.
I'm trying real hard to get my company to get me an Escape Hybrid for my new company vehicle (they won't buy a "foreign" brand name). Jenkins has a nice looking Blue one in their showroom. It's not a HH though as far as comfort.
Moondog, I think you answer your own question. Whether a deal is good or not has nothing to do with MSRP or invoice. When you buy a house, do you ask what the previous owner bought the house for? I don't think anyone care. But for whatever reason, we get very emotional about what a dealer may be making. A good deal really is just the best price one can get within a reasonable distance. For people in LA, there seems to be a lot of dealers and they will certain get better deal that it is hard to match. For people who live in a town with only one dealer, the deal will suck unless he/she shop in one of the bigger town near by. If a dealer is desperate to move their inventory, they will sell their car below invoice. If a car is hot and they have buyers line up, why should they sell less than the top price that they can get??? Isn't that how capitalism work? And if we value our money, we would wait for price to go down before buying. For other who has money and want to be the first kid in the block to own the best toy in town, they will pay top dollars. Right now Accord is pretty much below invoice in California. Wonder why Honda dealer need to discount it so much and should we cry for them (no, I won't)??
So instead of a loaded TCH at $30,589 with no discount you'd consider my $48,000 Expedition with a $12,000 rebate and discount as a "better" deal?
Supply and demand determine market price.
My friend just paid $23,000 for a Hyundai because he got a "deal". I got the TCH witha total of $6300+ in state and federal tax credits and I will have less than $24,000 in my TCH. Who got the better deal?
Answer: Both of us got the deal we wanted. However we both agree I got a good deal and only he thinks he got a good deal.
>Options:
>
>Heated Outside Mirrors
>Navigation
>Carpet Mats
>Mud Guards
>
>Out the door Price:
>
>MSRP: $28,163.58
>Discount: 878.00
>
>Selling Price: 27,285.58
>
>Tax 818.57
>Doc. Fee 399.00
>Title Fee 49.00
>Tag Fee 68.00
>Inspection 9.30
>
>Total $28,629.45
Is it a good deal (no factory leather or moon roof, just a plain TCH with NAV and heated mirrors from factory) ???
Never -- EVER -- EVER get stuck paying those excessive doc fees.....
Discount $500.00
Purchase Price $30,089
DOC FEE $49.00
PLATES & TITLE WORK+Taxes $71.95
Fed Tax Credit $2600
WV State Tax Credit $3750 (over 3 years)
My taxes were low because I traded "even" and in WV you only pay on the difference.
Sure I am because when I make a purchase decision I am comparing two cars. You said you wouldn't buy without a discount. I'm saying some cars in demand won't discount and that's OK. The MSRP IS it's market price and thus it's what it's worth. My $48,000 Expedition was only worth $36,000 because of the discounts.
I made the mistake once of NOT buying a MB because at the time they said they had a new policy of pricing their cars at MSRP. I said I'm no fool I won't buy unless I get a discount. Well I bought something else because they gave me a discount. I was a fool. I never was happy with the car and wish I had sucked up my pride and bought what I wanted.
There are a lot of cars out there selling at or near MSRP and they are still "good deals" because you can't really compare (as you imply) a BMW 330Ci with no discount to a Hyundai Sonora with a $3500 discount. They are indeed both "good " deals but are apples and elephants.
If you got the same car I bought for $29,000 that's great, you'd be the only one in the US out of 18,000 sold that has gotten that deal.
And I believe EVERY thing I read???
My hybrid system costs NOTHING extra after tax credits, I actually saved on a compariably equiped car.
My milage is AVERAGING 39 mpg, I've already saved $1,000 in three months over my previous car
My insurance went down $9 / month
The "dual" power system (hybrid) componets have a 100,000 mile warranty
Any yes you actually have to have a job and pay taxes before you can claim a tax break. (comment not directed at those with the AMT)
The prices of the Prius have not dropped and used ones are commanding near MSRP of their original sticker.
Any other concerns?
You're certainly not going to convince any of us we made a bad decision.
I have noticed people paying MSRP or a few hundred lower for the TCH... next time start invoice up or shop for the best prices comparing apples to apples.
No, I don't miss your point, you're missing mine.
The reality is that a car that only sells 40,000 units a year where there is a buyer lined up for every single one they make you're not going to see a drop in price anytime soon. Sure if no one buys them they will drop. That's not reality, it's a fantasy. Thus finding one you want and paying at or near MSRP is as good as a deal as you can expect and it's a "good" deal in today's market.
Hot items, reguardless if it's cars, iPods, X-boxes or beany babies are HOT because people want them and they want them now not three years from now when the supply catches up with the demand of 300,000,000 consumers in the United States. If I decide to sit out and wait until the price drops then I'll be buying it when the next hot (and better) item comes out.
There are a lot of theoretical discussions in the Smart Shopper forums...
thanks,
kyfdx
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I have noticed people paying MSRP or a few hundred lower for the TCH... next time start invoice up or shop for the best prices comparing apples to apples.
Again, this is not living in reality for a TCH. Invoice on a TCH is meaningless. I do agree what many people have done is to see a bad deal hidden by the true cost due to a trade.
KBB, NADA and Edmunds all have trade in prices and private party sell prices. Most dealers in my area use KBBtrade-in prices AND they seldom will allow more than a "good" condition allowance even when the car is almost new and on warranty. That's rediculus but it is the price to pay if you want to trade.
In WV there is an advantage to trading because the taxes are only on the difference rather than the full purchase price on a cash purchase. Of course the dealers know that and try to screw you on a trade knowing just how far they can take it.
Trading a car is seldom a good experience, at least financially.
Most of the posts here do not tell you what they got on trade. I did a long time ago show my deal. I've had over 35 cars and usually took a beating. My last deal though I had an exceptionally clean low milage Infiniti FX45 and was given PRIVATE PARTY Value against a $500 discount on a TCH.
I dare say NO ONE got a better trade deal than that.
It did take though me threatening my dealer. I had bought 5 new cars in the last two years from them and told them I expected a good deal (a token discount and a good trade) if they wanted to keep me as a customer. From what I read on these forums though most people don't have a dealer they can call"their own" and many people actually buy over the internet. Don't expect any dealership loyalty like that.
The absolute best way to negotiate a purchase price of any new car is: 1). Do not have a trade-in (sell your car privately), and 2). Write a check for the new car, i.e. pay cash. Now, you may be able to get a better overall deal if you use Toyota's financing - if they should offer a financing rebate (seldom offered, but if they do, always take the money) - and, pay it off after 30 days.
Re. "moondog4" post: Hyundai's name is the problem. Yes, this is indeed true, but it's changing with every new model, as Hyundai's quality is far better than most consumers perceive - unfortunately, only current owners know how good they really are. After all, Hyundai did rank 3rd in the most recent J.D. Powers Initial Quality Study, behind Porsche and Lexus, but above Honda and Toyota. Nevertheless, the Camry continues to be a fine car, even with the reported transmission and cruise control teething problems.
Regarding the Azera - if I didn't know it was a Hyundai I would probable bye it.
CQAT (Comfort & Convenience Package)
LAAT (Leather Package Includes: Power Driver)
NVAT (Navigation w/ JBL Premium Audio 4-Disc)
SRAT (Power Tilt/Slide Moonroof)
MG30 (Splashguards - Color Keyed)
PV50 (Carpet Mats and Trunk Mats)
XY40 (Toyoguard Protection Group)
As a matter of fact, today I confirmed that I will not get the following port installed options:
1. IL10 (Interior Lights -- $249)
2. TW50 (Window Tint -- $259)
I also did verify (in their NEW TOYOTA INVENTORY) that the MSRP changed from $31,973.00 down to $31,465.00 = ($31,973.00 - $249 - 259)
BTW, I did get the port installed XY40 as I have seen on my other vehicles big difference the one that had it with the ones that did not...
XY40 $619 consists of:
1. Exterior Paint Sealant
2. Glass Etch Theft Deterrent
3. Interior Fabric Protector
4. Toyo Guard Sealant Cleaner
5. Undercoating/Sound Shield
I hope this helps...
1. Exterior Paint Sealant
2. Glass Etch Theft Deterrent
3. Interior Fabric Protector
4. Toyo Guard Sealant Cleaner
5. Undercoating/Sound Shield
I know many of you are stuck getting this, but it seems like the only value here is the $50 wax job and the $10 scotch guard. Personally I don't want the undercoating on a car that is undercoated from the factory already.
As far as etching if someone steals my car and does who knows what with it I would just as soon get a new one and hope they never find the old one.
Thank You for the prompt response. I guess there are some options that can NOT be removed such as undercoating or paint sealant. So if a Camry is built in Georgetown, KY can it have port installed options?
Although I am not sure what the process is in GeorgeTown KY, I do believe it would be pretty much the same, except the ToyoGuard but not sure though...
I was at a Toyota Dealer in the Bay area, and here was the story I was told.
I put in a deposit for the Camry now, at which time the dealer orders the Camry.
Once the Camry arrives, the negotiation for the Camry is done at that point in time with the Camry in his lot(and there are hardly any LEs in his lot). Here the Minimum Price is 21,300 for LE - AT with Moonroof (Invoice as per dealer), and the max price is the MSRP.
At that point if there is another consumer prepared to pay more than me for the car I wanted, he gets preference and I go back in line.
This kind of a market almost appears like a strong sellers market, almost akin to buying houses in the bay area with buyers over-bidding on each other.
Is it that bad, and if it is, is it worth it?
Sounds like they need to get rid of their sales staff and just auction their cars off on eBay.
I wouldn't, that puts you in the range of a Lexus ES350.
I'll assume they ordered it into stock (even though for you), but you had no written deal.
This is a nice car but it's NO $35,000 car. There are other options in that range that I would consider.
If you strike a deal, grab a flight into DC, IAD or BWI, and they'll meet you at the airport. Others on the board have done it had a great experience. This is the best dealership group in America.
Body: CAMRY SE V6 AUTO
Color: Super White
Interior: Ash Gray Leather
Stock#: 520032
Model#: 2550
VIN#: 4T1BK46K17U520032
Delivered Internet Price: $27,156
Delivered Value Price: $27,525
Factory Invoice: $26,656
MSRP: $29,988
http://www.fitzmall.com/carfind/resultsb.asp?Search=NEW&ID=520032&photo=TO072550- &loc=LFT&mall=GA&year=2007&mk_code=TO
Dealers typically come in 300-400 above that.
If not for getting the TCH, the G35X would have by far been a lot higher on my list of favorites to consider. I enjoyed my FX45 ownership experience