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Comments
But they have been correct with me, although they refused to give me the performance package for the same price; so they gave me the wheel package free of charge. It does not replace the additional safety that the vlsd represents, especially in snowing conditions, but...
They also fixed the paint problem.
So all together, I am happy with the service, especially compared with the arrogance of the BMW dealer in the same town, that seems to make you a favor when you enter the show room.
Any input would be appreciated.
Did the converter check today by driving at 75 MPH using cruise control on a level straight stretch of the road, with tachometer showing 2750 rpm. Then, without disengaging cruise control, shifted lever to the manual mode, up-shifted from 4th to 5th gear and was observing the same 2750 rpm. I also tried to cancel cruise control in both automatic and manual mode and observed approximately the same rate of rpm decrease, which seem to be proportional to the drop in speed.
I have 2004 G35 Auto, about 1 month old, with 1800 miles on the odometer.
It might be not related to your question, but I did noticed changes in the auto mode shifting. I think this was related to the away I drove first 1200 miles (break-in) vs. more aggressive driving afterwards.
I know that your issue is with "manual" mode, which should not be affected by learning algorithms utilized in auto mode. The "manual" mode however is not completely manual: slowing down from approx. 50 MPH to complete stop I observed gear changed from 5th to 4th and so on to the 1st, all without my shifting, i.e. automatically. I am wondering if the issue you are describing is related to software glitch rather than to the transmission mechanical problem. If you have less than 1200 miles on odometer and still breaking-in, I would wait until you can drive car hard for a few hundred miles, and then try your experiment again.
Thanks for trying out the experiment. My 05 G35 is still breaking-in at 600+ miles and I'm not pushing it hard. I'll will try with the cruise control at 60MPH and also at 75MPH to see if they matter. If you could, please try the test again without using the cruise control at the lower 60MPH speed. May be in manual shift mode, the torque converter will lockup later and/or at a higher cruising speed.
On snowy roads, given a 0-10 scale (where 0 is an F1 with racing slicks on wet ice and 10 is a Hummer with monster studded ice tires), the coupe's stock summer tires were about a 1, the ContiExtreme's are maybe a 4, and the AWD (I didn't even check its tires) was a solid 7. Accelerating--even in sharp turns--was a snap with the G35X, giving me almost too much confidence. I wouldn't worry too much about theoretical advantage other AWD systems may offer, but if you'd want maximum grip, your best bet is to invest in winter/ice tires (which will make much more of a difference than any fancy differential).
Thanks
Mark
They quoted me the service would be $540 or so when I dropped the car off, but when I picked it up the tab was for $487. I brought my own oil, which saved a few bucks, and I should have remembered to tell them not to add the stupid (and uncalled for, per the manual) "oil additive," which they charged me $10 for. Rosenthal (in Tysons) quoted me $695 for the service, so that was an easy call (Passport isn't terribly convenient for me).
Use ECON mode (AUTO/ECON button) to prevent activation of air conditioner in the heating mode. This "problem" was a source for my irritation as well. The real problem is that manual is not clear on this feature.
The following information is from the infinitihelp.com site:
What is the difference between "Auto" mode and "Econo" mode
AUTOMATIC OPERATION
Cooling and/ or dehumidified heating (AUTO) This mode may be normally used all year round as the system automatically works to keep a constant temperature. Air flow distribution and fan speed are also controlled automatically.
Push the AUTO button on. (AUTO will be displayed.)
Turn the temperature set dial to the left or right to set the desired temperature.
Adjust the temperature set dial to about 75° F (24° C) for normal operation.
The temperature of the passenger compartment will be maintained automatically. Air flow distribution and fan speed are also controlled automatically.
Heating (ECON)
The air conditioner does not activate. When you need to heat only, use this mode.
Push the ECON (Economy) button on. (ECON will be displayed.)
Turn the temperature set dial to the left or right to set the desired temperature.
The temperature of the passenger compartment will be maintained automatically. Air flow distribution and fan speed are also controlled automatically.
Do not set the temperature lower than the outside air temperature. Otherwise the system may not work properly.
Not recommended if windows fog up.
Enjoy the drive !
http://www.brakedustcover.com/performance/buy.php?make=in&year=2003&model=g35&part_name=br- ake_dust_shields&brand=kleen_wheels&skipped=true
Brake dust is one of those annoyances in life that must be dealt with. Waxing the wheels helps minimally from my experience, but I've read positive reports about switching to some low-dust brake pads.
Anybody else has this problem? What is it? Thanks!
thanks
To see more complaints about the G35 accelerator problem you can go to: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/
Under:
"If You Suspect a Defect or Problem with Your Vehicle ", select: "Search Our Extensive Databases"
Then you can enter the car model, year, etc. and you will see the complaints. Here is one of them I found:
"I HAVE A 2004 GS SEDAN WITH ABOUT 2000 MILES ON IT PURCHASED IN OCTOBER 2003. IN THE LAST FEW DAYS I HAVE HAD THREE OCCASIONS WHEN THE ACCELERATOR FLOOR BOARDED ITSELF WITH NO ACTION ON MY PART TO CAUSE SUCH BEHAVIOR. ON ONE OCCASION THE CAR WAS IN CRUISE CONTROL AT ABOUT 60, AND ACCELERATED TO 90 BEFORE I COULD GET THE CAR UNDER CONTROL. PUSHING THE BRAKE PEDAL DID NOT DISENGAGE THE ACTION. THE SECOND TIME THE CAR WAS IN CRUISE CONTROL AT ABOUT 50 AND THE SAME THING HAPPEN AS I GENTLY PRESSED THE ACCELERATOR TO PASS A CAR. THE ACCELERATOR UNEXPECTED WENT TO THE FLOOR, WITH RESULTANT VERY SHARP ACCELERATION. THIS TIME I HAD TO TURN THE IGNITION OFF, AND COAST TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THE CAR WOULD NOT START SINCE THE ACCELERATOR WAS FLOORBOARDED. FINALLY GOT THE ACCELERATOR TO BREAK LOSE BY USING THE EDGE OF MY SHOE SOLE AND THE CAR WOULD RESTART, AND THEN BEHAVED NORMALLY FOR A PERIOD OF TIME. THE THIRD TIME I WAS NOT IN CRUISE CONTROL, HAD SLOWED FOR AN EXIT RAMP, AND THEN GENTLY PUSHED THE ACCELERATOR TO SPEED UP. AGAIN THE ACCELERATOR FLOORBOARDED ITSELF, WITH VERY SHARP ACCELERATION. I DISENGAGED THE BEHAVIOR BY AGAIN LIFTING THE ACCELERATOR WITH THE EDGE OF MY SHOE. ONE COULD FEEL A POP EACH TIME THE ACCELERATOR WAS LIFTED WITH THE SHOE. TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALER WHO HAS NOW HAD IT FIVE DAYS. SAYS HE HAS NOT SEEN THIS BEHAVIOR AND HIS POSITION IS THAT UNLESS HE CAN REPLICATE IT HIMSELF THERE ARE NO REPAIRS TO MAKE. I WILL NOT TAKE CAR BACK UNTIL DEALER SIGNS A LETTER VALIDATING THAT I CONSIDER THE CAR UNSAFE TO DRIVE AND THAT HE WILL ASSUME ANY LIABILITY FOR ACCIDENTS RELATED TO THE PROBLEM. EXPECT THAT THIS WILL LEAD TO AN IMPASSE WITH THE DEALER. *LA"
Good luck!
My local dealership (Miller Infiniti in Van Nuys, CA) could basically care less about me and my car. You can't get the service department on the phone to save your life, they won't return phone calls, and if you drive in they basically won't talk to you unless you have an appointment - which seem to be scheduled out about a month in advance. It's unbelievable that I can pull into the service department of a dealership and over a period of 20 minutes there's not a single person who will ask me if I need help. The couple of people that are around are sitting on the phone trying desperately not to make eye contact. My Saturn dealership jumped all over the chance to help me!
I've complained to the dealership, but I'm wondering if it's worth complaining to Infiniti? I'm starting to get the Slip and Brake lights coming up on my dash for no reason (2003 G35 sedan, auto), and I can't even get someone to talk to at the dealership. I sure as heck won't buy another Infiniti when my lease is up, even though I love the car. I just don't trust them to stand behind it. But I don't know if anyone at Infiniti cares about that or not. Frustrating.
Thanks for your help
Well folks, the dealer replaced the car with a new one. Dealer was taking credit for this action however I trully believe it was my letter to the President Nissan in Japan and the VP & GM Infiniti division (Mark Igo) that forced this action. The only G-35 in the color I had (garnet) that they had in stock was with the $750 sport package. I told them I was not going to pay a penny more than my previous lease which they agreed upon.
So unless new problems occur, this appears to have a happy ending.
After 2 painful visits to the dealer (9 days in the shop), this problem has been fixed. The ABS control module was replaced and the slip light does not flash anymore at 7-10mph.
Admire your courage. I don't know if I could fight as much as you did in your situation. Let me ask you a question: given another chance, do you still choose a Infiniti? It is more like a question I need to ask myself - I am considering buying a Infiniti G35x. Safety (with its AWD, over Acura TL) and reliability (over BMW and Audi) am the two main factors that Infiniti attracts me so far, but the problem you had with Infiniti really make me hesitate.
Can someone enlighten me?? How common this problem is in G35 cars?
Good luck with whatever decision you come to.
Worse between 20-40 mph.Dealer says that my 23,400 mile G35 Coupe has wheel alignment issues.The tires do exhibit wear indicating alignment problems.But nothing that could cause this rumbling.Raised the car on the jack & rotated the wheels.No noticable bearing noise in no load condition.Getting the alignment done is part of the solution.Of course the dealer says I need new tires to complete the fix.I have the Michelin sports.The rear tires are worn evenly & rather thoroughly.The front aren't really so bad.
I'll have an alignment done on 3-30.Besides the rumbling issue, what is good tire life for these Michelin Sports?
They handle great.But 24,000?
That may not be too bad but if the rumbling is part of these tires they won't fly!
My current car has (had) very nice aluminum wheels. Break dust though after just a short period of time, took it's toll on them. The fine matrix of "wire-like" wheel design made it almost impossible to get clean once it set in for a short period of time.