Infiniti G35 Maintenance and Repair

joen05

I drove over something today that created a hole in the engine shield (arg.. stupid tailgaters!!!). Does anyone know how much that would cost to replace on a 2008 G35x?

I'm also bringing it to the service center to see if any other damage was caused....

jackedupstereo

Did you ever find out what the rattle/clatter/ valve noise was. Mine has just started doing it.

Thanks,

Eric

eddierae

Hey everyone, I've been having an issue lately with the automatic shifting of my 03 G35 Sedan and I can't seem to figure out what the problem is.

Basically what is happening is that around 30 mph or so, or slightly thereafter, my car upshifts, but the upshift is hard and not fluid at all. The car almost jolts itself, and I can feel vibrations in the peddle from the engine. This usually only occurs when I am accelerating slowly. Fast acceleration there is no problem. I was reading online that this has something do with the programming of the automatic transmission.

The things is I don't know much about cars but I know it doesn't feel right when I'm driving. It feels like the engine is straining to get up to 40mph. Once its going fast its fine. You can see where the gage jumps to 3000rpm and then falls to 2000 rpm.

Does anyone know what might be the cause of this problem? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

ace_coyne

I'm looking around for used vehicles and a used G35 coupe caught my attention. It is listed at $13,950 with 101k miles on it. My gut tells me it's a scam and the car will fall apart or become a money pit, but if not this is a really good deal i'm thinking.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated, Thank You in advance!

eddierae

What year is it? Depending on the year, that's too much money for that many miles. They are good cars but that is too much money for those miles. You never want to buy anything that's less than 10 years old with that many miles.

pscheid

Ace,

I have to assume this is an 03 or 04 and is a private party sale at that price and mileage. No?

Anyhow, when buying used I always try to take out some of the worry and guesswork by running a Carfax report and paying my mechanic to thoroughly check out the car. Then I negotiate with the seller from there.

The Carfax will provide title history with ownership changes and locations of ownership, state vehicle inspections with dates, and in many cases dealer-performed maintenance at various mileage points. A good mechanic can usually give you an arms length opinion on the car's value as it is and what it needs (including repair estimates) to get it up to snuff, including an examination for previous body and suspension damage, replacement panels, and the like. I also like to see a private party's maintenance and repair records/receipts. If the private party doesn't have any, that gets me to wondering if what he says he has done actually has been done. I save all that stuff, but that is anal-retentive me.

Many normal and otherwise sane folks skip important and critical scheduled maintenance items like oil changes and timing gears/belts. "Hmmmmm, I think I'll skip a few oil changes and a $400 maintenance item and risk a $4,500+ engine repair." My mechanic caught that one on a used car my son was buying, and the seller, a private dealer, quickly performed the timing belt service and threw in a thermostat, water pump, and belts to boot. I don't have to know this stuff. My mechanic does. He can tell by looking at the condition of the bolts......clean, no evidence of removal. Plus that scheduled maintence was not on the Carfax while all of the dealer-performed oil changes were, on a one owner car!

The reason you don't find a lot of 100K+ mile 03 and 04 G35 Coupes kicking around for sale is because they are not the best choice for winter driving for the average person with the G's rear wheel drive, and even with all-season 225fr/245rr tires. Some in snow country garage the cars in the winter. Others use dedicated winter tires and wheels to make the car passable for the snowier climates. Sales types don't drive them if they need to haul a lot of stuff around because, if I am not mistaken, the trunk is under 8 cubic feet (but the rear seat folds down with pass thru to the trunk).

Properly maintained, a 100K mile car doesn't frighten me so much if the price is right and it checks out. Consider the lower initial cost, lower insurance rates (if this is an 03 or 04), lower excise taxes, lower depreciation costs, and lower financing costs. The lower cost of ownership versus buying new can be quite attractive and get you into a car you might otherwise just dream about. Check out edmunds.com for cost of ownership info.

Personally, I have not been back to the Infinity dealer for my maintenance but did have to take it back for a n/c recall item; and the dealer redid the brakes, rotors and pads, because the manufacturer extended the brakes under warranty to 3 years/36,000 miles. The next brakework, done by my mechanic, steered clear of Infinity parts, no further issues. The Infinity pads don't seem to hold up, and it all goes downhill from there. I change the pads a bit early to avoid the "Your rotors are scored and too thin to be salvageable" discussion too many of us have had.

Now for the engine.......you may want to go to www.wardsauto.com and do a little reading which may give you some perspective. Off the top of my head, Wards started ranking the top 10 automotive engines back in 1995, the best engine available in a "for retail sale car" with a base sticker under $50,000. The Nissan VQ and the variants, and which is resident in the G35 you are looking at, was the only engine that made Ward's 10 best engines list every year, for 13 consecutive years, from 1995 through 2007, and has been a nominee since then. The web site will bring you up to date with Ward's selection criteria (power, torque, durability, etc). So if the G you are looking at has been properly maintained, a G with 100K miles may not intimidate you so much.

Expect repairs. They go with the 100k+ territory. But you are basically funding the the repairs with the money you are saving (3 paragraphs back). As long as the car is dependable, the sheet metal and interior are clean, you have a "trustworthy and experienced mechanic (I do, for 15+ years), and you want more than humdrum 4 wheels and transportation, I'd give the car a serious look.

The G35 Coupe isn't the most practical. But the rear seat is passable for folks under 5'6". I don't ride back there so I don't care. Plenty of luggage space for 2 with the back seat folded down. The fuel mileage is acceptable for a performance vehicle capable of a speed-limited 155mph (18/24 highway mpg). I can routinely top 26mpg on pure highway, cruise-controlled trips at 65mph-70mph. But around town I keep suffering "happy right foot syndrome" and "delayed braking syndrome" on the exit ramps. 12mpg is feasible, less if I tried.

These are just my observations and opinions. There will be a lot of folks that may jump in here and disagree with me. Their experiences with the G35 may not have been as positive as mine. I just think the car is a good bang for the buck overall.

pscheid

eddieray.......using your approach, I never would have gotten into my Corvette either, used of course. Still have it. Each to his own.

pscheid

Ace......I never answered your first question which was "Should I be skeptical?

The answer is: "Always be cautious, patient, and do your homework." If something sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

If automobile salespeople have one irrefutable advantage, it is that car buyers are often rational right up until the moment they step into the showroom. Which of us can claim we went into a car dealership and came out spending less than we expected to? Within a matter of 30 minutes, a switch flips in my brain and I become impulse buyer. Infinity got me. I was all ready to order the exact car I wanted for the price I thought was reasonable, but at the last minute the dealership manager informed me he had the exact car except right on the lot but it had the navigation package I didn't want......they split the $2,200 pricetag up the middle and I drove out spending $1,100 I didn't really want to.

Something else to consider. There are a lot of unemployed or underemployed people out there who are shedding quality but unnecessary assets at attractive prices. Motivated sellers, so to speak. The bills have to be paid.

And eddieray......I usually buy used cars, low mileage two years old or so. I look until I find exactly what I want down to the colors. That way I can get in a nicer ride for far less money while the first owner got killed on the depreciation. The G was the first "new car" exception in a couple of decades. My wife drives the G35, I drive her hand-me-downs. Currently I drive a 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora (older bigger one) with the Autobahn package and the 4.0 mini-Northstar engine. It has every conceivable option and recently turned 110,000 miles. I plan on driving it a few more years. No payments for the past 7 years, and that can pay for a lot of repairs, and the expensive ones.....BUT, there have not been any for the past 2 years!

Should I dump the car because it has over 100K or should I continue to drive a car I really like and ride the financial gravy train?

ace_coyne

Thank you this was extremely helpful. The car is an '03 and I would plan on keeping it for several years. I don't get a new car as often as most. My Wrangler has just about 200k miles on it and the rust hole under my driver floormat sprayed me with water the other day during a downpour, it's time for an upgrade. Is this the type of car you car run into the ground with limited cost if you keep it well maintained? I can perform limited repairs (brakes, other small jobs) and can change my own tires/oil/filters etc. so would this be a worthy investment?

pscheid

If you had owned this car you are interested in from new or knew the owner, knew everything that you/they had done maintenance-wise, and knew every aspect of how the car was driven, this would be an easier decision for you. But you don't have any of these things going for you. So this all becomes a risk versus reward decision for you.

I simply could not afford a newer Corvette when I bought one used. So I bought a five year old one, private party, as my daily driver 24/7/365, including Chicago winters which need little explaining. I assumed that every one of miles on the odometer were very hard miles. I expected I would have an engine rebuild in the not too distant future, a costly repair that indeed arrived 55K miles later. But I was prepared for the risk side and saw the opportunity. I didn't regret the decision because I went into it with my eyes wide open.

Eddieray is not wrong when he observes that a car with 110,000 miles carries with it too much risk for him, and his values are valid.......for him, for what his experience has been, and for what he can afford. I was willing to take that risks because for me I felt the rewards outweighed them. It was the only way into a Corvette for me. That scenario works for me. What works for you?

Consumer Reports' Used Car Buying Guide might be a good source of reliability information on the 2003 G35 Coupe, the first year of production on an all-new car. Usually the first year of a car's production run exposes a few wrinkles, ironed out in the subsequent model years. Brakes on the 03 and 04 models are a good example. The car exhibited exceptionally good stopping distances and placed the car in the BMW league. But the brake pads that Infinity selected to achieve those impressive stopping stats didn't hold up. Folks in this forum found themselves facing very expensive $900 brake jobs which were not covered by the Infinity's factory warranty, some guys with as little as 7,000 miles on their car! My Coupe made it to 14,000 miles before brakes became an issue for me, right about the time when Infinity bellied up to the mounting consumer backlash and bad press and sent out a "warranty notice" that they would cover the brakes 3years/36,000 miles AND reimburse those who had already incurred the expense, with receipts of course..

As stated previously in my Ward's automotive comments, the engine is fairly bulletproof and has it's roots that go decades back, the product of quite a bit of development and refinement with a zillion miles of owner experience as a guide.

I'd also suggest you do a G35 Coupe used car search on www.edmunds.com and see what is out there and at what price for an 03 or an 04. You might not find any at any price with 100K miles.

Finally, no decision by you at this time can be a good decision as you continue to search and learn.

This G is not the only one out there or will be out there at a similar price and mileage. Another will come along, and sooner than you think. The problem with the Gs is that they rank somewhere around #3 in holding their value.......good for those who have one, not so good for those looking for one.

I looked for 6 months for my Oldsmobile Aurora because I wanted one with all of the options and only one color combination! My patience was rewarded with a used 1998 model in July of 1998 with 11,500 miles 26% below sticker and driven by the Oldsmobile dealership manager. Found it about 15 miles from my house and jumped on it! 26% off a $40,000 car may not sound like a great deal with a one year old used car by todays' desperate marketplace standards, but back then it was quite a find.

One final note......in my opinion Fall and early winter is the best time of the year to be looking for a RWD G Coupe because of its less than good snow manners. It is also the time of the year when things go dead at the car dealers. And this year will be no exception now that the "cash for clunkers" program has cleaned out much of the new car demand pipeline. Dealers will be dying on the vine, desperate to move anything on their lot with tires on it to anyone whose heart is still beating.

Wish you the best of luck no matter what you decide. The hunt can be as rewarding as the kill.

Mr_Shiftright

Price is too high for that many miles. Price is too high even if it had normal miles. I would think you could find a really nice one with perhaps 70K-80K maximum on it in the $11,000--$12,000 range.

gooddeal2

11-12K might be possible for private party. I search cars.com within 50 miles of my zip code, 19012, and the cheapest asking price is 15K. Also, there're only a couple of them, so, I'm not sure if it's that easy to bring the price down.

Mr_Shiftright

Well asking prices are only someone exercising their First Amendment Rights. You should pay what the market says is fair. In any event, mileage is a critical factor in value. You simply cannot compare a car with 50,000 miles vs. one, say, with 125,000. There is thousands of dollars difference in that spread. So make sure your "comps" are real comparables in mileage, equipment and condition level.

cchirico

I have a 2004 G35 coupe. It is without a doubt the most troublesome, problematic car either me or my wife has ever owned. I purchased it in early 07 with only 25,000 miles. Since a month after purchase I have had problems after problem. It's never ending with this car. It started a month after purchase with the power locks. Then it was the speakers, the CD changer, the cruise control, the navigation system, the steering wheel audio controls.....and OH MY GOD WITH THE BRAKES!!!!! Bad rotors, bad pads, bad calipers...and I can't begin to describe the crap that was fed to me by both Infiniti and Nissan dealers. I just replaced my rotors in November 08. By July 09 I needed new ones!!! I contacted Infiniti Consumer Affairs to notify them of all my issues...as well as the problems that could not be fixed (cruise control, noise from moonroof, water leak onto my floor during heavy rain, ticking from dash when I step on brakes during a hot day). Do you know what they did? They offered me $200 toward $550 cost of the new rotors and pads I need! HELLO!!! I just paid for all of this stuff 8 months ago!!!!!

I have owned three Chevy's, a Pontiac and a Mazda previous to this car. My wife has had a Honda, Saturn, BMW, GMC and currently a Pontiac. All of those cars COMBINED have not had the amount of problems this car continues to have.

Needless to say, they only way I would drive another Infiniti is if it were GIVEN to me with a lifetime warranty.

I love the look and performance of the car. But this experience has been just awful. I'm sure most G35's are great cars....but mine just flat-out sucks.

gooddeal2

Well, I'm on my 3rd G and I didn't have any problems except the brakes wear out a little bit too fast. However, this is a similar issue w/ the Accord now. I know a couple people who need to change the breaks on their 2008-2009 Accords after around 15K miles.

srics

Hi
I own a 2004 G35 sedan AWD and its due for maintenance.Suddenly it started showing up SES light and i took it to the nissan maintenance showroom and they gave a list of things to be done(brake flush,steering flush etc) and am ready for that but they told me that it will cost 130$ to diagnose the SES light.I want to find out if it usually costs that much and also what could be the reason for SES light?

appreciate your help.

thanks
Sri

2infiniti

I had the same problem occur. Have you tried to listen the bad tracks? I have listened and cannot find any problem. So, even though they are indicated as defective I cannot hear any issues. If you hear back from Infiniti with any correct solutions please let me know.

jimlacourse

I took mine to my own private machanic to change the oil and check all my fluid levels, after which he check the light and $20.00 later no SES light. Can also be due to a faulty gas cap, but you need to have the light turned off.

Jim

borisboris

Hi,

I am thinking about buying used 2008 G35 sedan with 6500 miles on it. The seller is a private dealership and they are telling me that car probably was never serviced. I see in carfax that it was purchased in Nov 2008.

do you think it may void the factory warranty? As I understand even on schedule 2 you have to service the car each 6 month or 7500 miles whatever comes first...

I did call the local infiniti dealership and they told me I need to have maintenance records if it was serviced at third party or it was serviced at infiniti, they would know that...

Do you think 26k is a good price for it? (journey with premium and nav)

Appreciate any help here...

gooddeal2

I think 26k is a steal for that car w/ such low mileage. I don't think you will have any issues w/ the car. I'm not sure about the warranty. However, you need to make sure that the car was not in the body shop for the last 4 months.

pfreak76

Guys - I drove the car into the dealers for a good old battery change and the dealer did an inspection to reveal that the compression rod bushings are worn. Apparently they cost $335 and $130 to mount back and align the tires.

I have never heard of this before. Is this a real problem? What's the impact of such a problem and do I need to spend all this money at the dealer or do I have a more economical solution available to me that I dont know of? I just replaced my tires btw...

srs_49

I agree, sounds like a steal to me also. The only significant thing the car would have needed in that one year/6500 miles is an oil change or two. So long as the car was never run low on oil (which could have happened if it wasn't being maintained), you should be good to go.

borisboris

guys, thank you for your opinion and sorry I mistyped the price, it is actually 28,000 still a great price I think

gooddeal2

Well, that change the whole thing...28K is an o.k deal. You probably can pick up a certified pre-owned from the Infiniti dealers for about the same price (28-29k) but the mileage will be a lot higher, usually in the 20k.

srs_49

Yes, that would change the equation for me also.

Heck, I paid $36,450 for a new G37S which included the Premium, Nav, and Aerodynamic packages, Cargo area organizer, splash guards, and destination charges. Take away the options that you don't have, and the prices comes down to ~$34K. IMM, I'd rather have something brand new for a ~20% price difference.

beanctr

pfreak76, I have a 04 G35 sedan that had its compression rods replaced late in the warranty period. The car has 80K miles on it currently and I expect at some point in the not too distance future I will be replacing them again. I think there have been some other comments about this particular issue on this thread. In my opinion, the wear issue on the compression rods doesn't rise to the level of the known brake wear issue, but it still is another one of those problem areas with the G. Speaking of brakes, I have to go get them replaced again (probably the rotors too)

adarshp

I own an Infiniti G35 sedan 2005 with 41K miles.
I went to Infiniti dealership for regular oil change he recommended a full service I was postponing 30K service for a while but this time I said OK.

In that service he recommended
Coolant system flush Estimated cost - $139.00
Transmission fluid change - $ 199.00
( he told fluid is dark in color and bad condition)
Engine belt change - $ 189.00
( he said he saw acrack on belt )

Is engine belt mean the timing belt?

Can I do all these at other shops like Friestone etc for less cost?
What is the usual price for these at other shops for G35 sedan?
Other than dealership which place do you guys recommend?

I'm living in Deerfield -north suburbs of Chicago . My warranty is expired.I dont know much about cars.

Thank you for your time.

nick154

2004 G35X 65,000 miles. I have a bad rattle in left front wheel area when driving on washboard streets or gravel roads. When I lightly depress brake pedal while moving rattle will stop. I'm a car guy, do most of my work myself. Installed new rotors - pads. Old ones didn't look bad at all. Installed new sway bar link. None of this made a difference. A mechanic put the car up on a lift, didn't see anything. Does anyone have a clue to this problem? Thanks.

pscheid

I have a 2004 G35 Coupe with 38K miles. I will soon be driving it to the grave while my wife gets the new(er) vehicle. I am retiring a 1998 Olds Aurora with 112,000 miles, not because its dependability is coming into the picture but because my wife's angst that the car will break down on us at an inopportune time with her precious dogs inside.

Choosing whether to have a dealer or a private mechanic do maintenance and repair work is a matter of individual choice and preference.

Whenever lubricant and coolant decisions arise, I always have those done. Lubricants: power steering fluid, brake fluid, motor oil, differential. Coolant: anti freeze and radiator/overflow tank, belts, water pump, hoses, and thermostat.

Personally, I feel that my trusted mechanic of 15 years is a better practical and cost-effective source for anything I need on my G outside of covered warranty work. But that's me. He's the one who stays on top of things (like brakes!) to avoid more costly repairs down the line. He recently suggested, and I had performed, both a coolant system flush/fluid replacement and a transmission flush/fluid replacement......but he has the equipment to do it right. While the mileage did not justify the work the age of the fluids did.

If you look at the manufacturer's scheduled maintenance, there is some preventative items that make sense but also an element of overkill too. Labor rates and parts prices at the dealer are steep.

Most of the expensive but avoidable repairs are avoidable if you simply stay on top of recommended changes and checks. Most of us may have to admit we don't keep up with these as well as we might, and we don't check the levels when we gas up. In four decades I have never had a drivetrain failure or premature breakdown due to coolant or lubrication self-inflicted mistakes. Keeping your engine temperatures where they should be and your lubricants up to snuff is the name of the game.

I think your dealer was referring to the cracked condition of your fan belt. As part of the coolant system, replace it, regardless of whom you trust to do the replacement. It is not worth a few bucks or a few thousand extra miles to risk an expensive faux pas or an untimely breakdown, especially in the winter.

Hope this gives you some usable food for thought.

nkumar

I have a 2006 G35 Sedan with 38K miles on it. I have been advised to change the drive belts, after the mechanic observed a minor cracks on the belts.

At what mileage do these belts need to be replaced, as in general.
If so, how much would the cost be...

I live in NOVA (Northern Virginia). Can anyone suggest a good mechanic.

Thanks.

lewisw

Mechanic asking $210/ea. + labor for low beam. Does that sound right to you guys?
These are OEM. Claims to have had some issues with aftermarket bulbs.
Suggestions?
Thanks.

pscheid

Don't know the date of manufacture on your car or the first in-service (first titled) date. You car could have been built as early as July 2005. If so, you may have over 4 years on the external drive belts, mileage notwithstanding. You can find the date of manufacture driver's side door jam I believe.

Second, you may have the original battery and hoses. Same consideration.

I'm not from your neck of the woods so I cannot recommend a mechanic.....but your friends, family, and personal/business acquaintances might be able to help you out there. As stated above, I avoid the dealer and use my trusted mechanic because there is a personal relationship there and the dealer costs are always the high priced spread.

While your mileage may be low, the years (age) do take a toll too. Personally, I don't ever want to get stuck on the side of the road with the wife in the car at midnight in the middle of nowhere during a monsoon or a blizzard because I was trying to squeeze a few more months or miles out of some belts or hoses. I'd never hear the end of it, never.

carwoods

Hi Guys, I have a 2006 infiniti g35 seden which has 43,000 on it. I am the second owner of it, I was not able to get all the information from the first owner. Basically, I changed the oil to synthetic mobile1 1500 miles ago. I know it has an after market brake pad.
I am going to change engine air filter and in cabin micro filter myself, but I just wonder what the mileage intervals are for these type of maintenance, for instance, engine air filter, micro filter, oil change etc... how about those major maintenance? time belt? brake?

Thank you in advanced.

srs_49

Here's the schedule 1 maintenance intervals (severe duty) for a G37.Not your vehicle, but should be close:

Drive belts - inspect at 60 Kmiles, then every 25 Kmi after that
Air cleaner - every 30 Kmi
Fuel filter - maintenance free on the G37
Coolant - 60 Kmi, then every 30 Kmi
Oil & filter - every 3.75 Kmi
Spark plugs - 105 Kmi
In cabin micro filter - every 15 Kmi
Brakes, suspension, vacuum lines, etc - all are just inspect and replace if cracked (vacuum lines) or worn/making noise (brakes)

bob1474

mjr242;

Never used blog before. I live in New Rochelle. I am very skeptical of Pepe.Only have 17,000 miles on my G35X, I was getting front wheel shudder & needed new rear brakes he tried to tell me that was normal., Got rear for free under TSB and replaced the water shield per TSB and cut rotors on front but did not give me new pads on front. Mentioned acceleration problem, reprogrammed ECU without my permission.Not thrilled with lack of zip. Curious about your fix a faulty tranny valve body. Perhaps better than reprogramming.. I also have the noise coming from lower windshield area so I will try with TSB ITB02-028 2003 G35; CREAK OR RATTLE NOISE FROM THE BASE OF THE WINDSHIELD APPLIED
Thanks
Service guy tried to sell me fuel injector cleaning for next service which is absurd as well.

shaunamendelow

Are you referring to losing sound from your speakers while playing CD's? I have an '04 G35 coupe and both speakers are now not working well while only playing cd's, yet work fine using the radio or a cable from my iPhone. Any thoughts?

kennyb46

My G35 suddenly quit on a major freeway. Was almost rearended twice waiting for the police to push me off. Car has been at the dealer for nearly 2 weeks. Has anybody else had a significant electrical problem like this. They are telling me they need to bring in an engineer to review.

mqhokie

Did you ever figure this out? I have the same problem on a 2004 G35 sedan with 114K miles. I went through the front suspension and found nothing apparently loose or worn. I am about 95% convinced the noise is inside the car, and it takes fairly firm pressure on the brake to make it stop. I tore most of the drivers' side dashboard apart lookng for it to no avail. I thought I was reproducing the rattle by just touching and releasing the brake pedal, and at the pedal it sounds like it's coming from the brake booster piston. Problem is it's MUCH louder when running over bumps with the brakes released, so I'm not convinced that's it.

tiwahl

we recently purchased a 2006 g35x sedan with 32,000 miles. My wife has been driving it and has complained that twice she has experienced sudden acceleration when going slow and stepping on the brake. I can't seem to replicate the problem. Has anyone else experienced this?

gooddeal2

It's called "Engine braking"...a brief surge for about a second or so. This can be happened more often w/ abrupt braking or when driving down a hill.

rtbme

My wife is also in a 06 g35x. same situation, sudden acceleration, it's happened twice now. she almost ran into another car yesterday, took off in a parking lot prior to this a couple of moths ago. She's not driving it any more till this can be addressed. first time i admit i brushed it off as pilot error, she scared the heck out of herself yesterday.
this car is fixed /diagnosed now or out of the driveway.

dukiedoug

Hey everyone. Hope someone can help. I have an 2006 G35 coupe, bought in 2008. I programmed the universal link then to work with my craftsman garage door opener. It has worked flawlessly until this week. It WILL NOT open the garage door from outside, not even if i am directly in front of the door. Once I get the car inside it will open and close it in the garage and it will even CLOSE the garage door outside. I just can not seem to get it to open the garage door from outside. This has been happening consistently the last 4 days or so. Anyone have any ideas? Could it be the transmitter in the car? The battery it runs on? My garage door opener unit? Would trying to reprogram help? Any help would be appreciated!!

Thanks

doug

srs_49

If it does everything OK from inside the garage but not from outside, that could mean a weak signal. Did anything happen to the little wire antenna that comes of the garage door motor assembly?

Re-programming should not hurt anything.

The universal link in your car runs off the car battery, I think. It does not require much power. If your car starts, then there's plenty of juice to power the transmitter.

You could also try a separate transmitter. They can be picked up at Sears or the big box stores, if you don't have one.

dukiedoug

I appreciate the reply srs. Nothing has happened to the little wire antenna on the garage door assembly that I am aware of. I do have a separate transmitter in the car just in case, but since I still would like to get the built in one working again if possible.

So do you think re-programming is worth a shot?

srs_49

Reprogramming - sure, nothing to lose, really.

You may want to start fresh by erasing all the codes in the opener motor assembly. Then, program all your openers one by one.

BTW, the transmitter in your car - did you program that by putting it into "learn" mode, then using your existing remote to open the door? That's the way I had to program the remote in my car, and it's a little different procedure than programming a new remote you might buy from Sears.

barni3

My Infiniti G35 did exactly the same yesterday. It quitted twice in the middle of the road. Please tell me what the problem with your car was. Thanks!

brionini

I cannot open the trunk of my 2003 G35 coupe. any advice?

Kirstie_H

Well, what happens when you try? Are you using the key fob, or trying to just open it manually? Forgive me if this sounds silly, but on mine, you have to have all of the doors unlocked if you're doing it manually.

If you can't open it either using the fob or manually with all doors unlocked, it's quite possible that the latch is broken, or that a cable isn't attached. If you can (and I know it's a longshot because of the small space), you can go in through the back seat. The piece in the middle comes down or out, and if you can get in, you can try the emergency release inside the trunk.

brionini

Using fob or opening trunk manually does not work. I was able to connect a cord to the inside release through the back seat and using that as an temporary patch. I'll check the latch, thank you. Any other advice if that is not the cause?

Kirstie_H

No additional ideas, sorry. I happen to have the same year/model, so I was only able to offer advice based on my experience, but I've never had the problem you're having. Trunk latches are pretty rudimentary - it's mostly just a cable action, and the regular cable might have come unattached. Even if it's broken, it's not likely to be an expensive fix.