Infiniti G35 Maintenance and Repair

bobbobwhite

Restarted engine and it ran fine as usual. What happened, and does it need a repair? What is the repair if so, and what is the typical cost? Don't want to drive it and get stranded so please respond ASAP! Thanks for all helpful answers.

pscheid

The possible causes are numerous.

I had a Mercury Sable about 15 years ago that developed the same symptom. It was about 5 years old with about 50K miles if I recall correctly. The car would start easily, but it was slow on the uptake when blipping the throttle in nuetral.

Couldn't coax 30 miles per hour out of it on the road. Turned out to simply be the catalytic convertor was the culprit. Replaced. Problem solved. May be covered under Infinity warranty if so, but act fast.

You need to provide a little more info on your car (mileage). Also, examine the entire exhaust system for damage like a dented pipe or convertor.

Jack

bocatrip

I agree that the OEM pads do not last long on 03 and 04 G35s. 13,000 miles is about average for the original pads. I changed my pads to Akebono Pro Acts which are ceramic. Not only is there almost no dust, they are also quiet, very easy on the rotors and should last considerably longer than the OEM pads.

connie55

I had the same problem and it was the headlight switch. The manual was no help in solving this - thanks!

summer0703

I'm a current owner of a 2003 G35 Sedan. I've been keeping my are in shape and do take the car in for scheduled oil chages as requested by the dealer when I purchased the car.

I've had the car for almost six years and I'm beginning to have problems with the car at this time. When I start my car the screen on the radio disappears but the AC in my car is on. I can't seem to turn the AC off but the as the radio is able to work. Just wondering if anyone experienced this situation before? What was the diagnostics of the problem and what is the cost of the damage?

Thank you so much for your help!!!

beanctr

Summer0703, Check the thread on G35 Electrical Issues. I believe the discussion of the issue you are having is mentioned there.

bythabay

Hi Jenna,

go ahead and buy the G35. It's very easy to maintain even at home yourself. If you are in the San Francisco, Bay Area, I can service it for you for a very low cost. Look me up on yelp in San Francisco, Enthusiast Auto Care. I do all of the DIY videos also, you can watch those on http://www.infinitihelp.com

bythabay

Sounds like you will need a new ac/radio controller. Easy to install if you follow my diy video for dash disassembly

bythabay

I would recommend an Amsoil EA012 oil filter. It's nanofiber and the highest quality filter you can buy.

bythabay

Hi Jack,

you are asking for an explanation to a very complicated issue. The facts are real:

less engine wear
less volatility
purity
prolonged use
higher amount of detergents

I can discuss this with you in detail if you want to call me or email me. First, however, please watch this discovery channel special on synthetic motor oils.

lube job

paulo6

Took my 08GxS for 7500mile service at the dealer. I also casually mentioned to them that I have been noticing a slight vibration when the brakes are applied and I really should not with an Infiniti with only 7500 miles. Well I got a call back telling me that the rotors (both back and front) turned out to be out of round F-0.0021 and R-.0034. So they resurfaced under warranty. The car drives fine now. My questions are
1) The obvious, has aanyone experienced this so soon?
2) I am told this is NOT covered under warranty after 12K! - I might fight that if it happens again since it happend earlier.
3) What real impact will this have on overall break life expectancy

Thanks

scottm123

I had to have my rotors turned at almost 20K (under warranty) for the same reason.
I was told if the warping came back while under warranty, they'd replace the rotors.
As most people know, turning a warped rotor is only a temporary bandaid. The warping came back at 30K and the rotors were replaced with no questions asked.

If and when these things go south again, I'll be replacing them with a higher end aftermarket rotor. No more OEM for me once these things are done.

g35_lights

The headlights work when turned on, but the brake lights, other exterior night lights and interior night lighting does not come on when switched on. I checked the fuses and all were in good shape. Basically, the only lights that go on at night are the headlights.

What could be the problem?

zenithfac

Hello everyone, i'm currently thinking of getting a wrecked 04 G35 coupe with 45,000+ miles on it. I checked the parts needed for the car and professionally it'll cost about $2420 to get the parts(i.e the expensive way)...currently being sold for $4000. It actually runs fine, front damage, side door and back spoiler. Do you guys think i should go for it?

Mr_Shiftright

Well let's do the math here:

A clean used 2004 like you're buying is probably worth $16,000 in today's market. Being a wreck it will no doubt carry a rebuilt or salvage title, so that will cut value by 1/3, thus we are retail at about $10,500.

You are paying $4000 for it, plus let's say $2500 in parts with tax, etc. So you're in $6500 with no labor yet.

On the face of it, without seeing the car, AND even with presuming you're doing all the collision repair and paint yourself----it doesn't seem worth the trouble. If you have to hire someone to do some of the work, it definitely isn't worth it, in my opinion.

The only scenario I could see this working out for you would be a) if the car were not salvage title and b) if you did all the collision and paint yourself. THEN you'd have a much cheaper G35 than you could buy retail. But both those criteria have to be in place at the same time---no salvage, you doing all the work.

Otherwise, my two cents is FORGET IT!

liquidzblu

I personally dont like to be involved with a wrecked car you just never know what other problems it will bring. But it sounds pretty simple and it doesnt sound like the frame is bent or anything. I know that driving my 04 G35 is a true pleasure.

pscheid

My wife is driving our 04 G35 Coupe, purchased new.

Once upon a time I was in the market for a used Corvette, and a private party seller let me take his car (a 1970 large block convertible) for a full one hour spin. The owner told me he had hit a telephone pole but that the car had been repaired by a reputable collision shop. The car generally looked good and the price was attractive.

Under acceleration and deceleration the nose of the car would travel upward slightly to the right and then dive down slightly to the left. I returned, told the seller about it (he probably knew), and asked if it was ok to take the car to a place of my choosing for an opinion. He agreed.

My guy confirmed that the car was straight but that incorrect motor mounts used in the repair were causing the issue. Plus a front suspension spring was also incorrect. He gave me a quote to correct these things, and I returned to the seller. But the seller wouldn't budge on the price. I took a walk, and eventually my patience was rewarded with a 1969 Coupe, slightly more money. Still have the car 36 years later.

If the G35 is straight and running well, the price is right, and you are facing just plastic, sheet metal, and paint, this could be a good deal. Just 45,000 miles makes the idea interesting, TO ME, to get into the G35 Coupe. The car is a blast to drive and (heresy!) so civil and foregiving relative to my Corvette.

Jack

kb124

I own a 2007 G35X on which I had the Paint Shield applied. Not too long after ownership (e.g., within 6-months) I started noticing little vertical scrape marks on the driver-side frontdoor and passenger-side backdoor. The only reasonable explanation I could come up with was my leaning the driver-side door against my rounded edge lawnmower handle, and the passenger backdoor being from my wife's reardoor that she would carefully rest against my car when she needed to retrieve something from her back seat. She always was careful about not 'banging' her door against my car. And I was always careful when I opened my driver-side door and rested it gently against the lawnmower handle. (All of this was because our garage is rather tight for space.)

Anyway, in spite of our careful efforts, the paint job managed to show little scrapes marks as a result. We were both very surprised that such little pressure would be able to cause these marks. We hoped that maybe we were just scraping the 'paint shield'.

I finally took my car to a recommended body shop who stated a blended paint job would do the trick for about $1000.00. Being I like this car, I was considering this option. But I also decided to stop at another body shop who discouraged me from the paint job just because of the cost factor. He suggested trying a buff-out first (for about $100.00). Boy! Am I glad I tried his recommendation. They got out 95% of the scrapes. Looks almost brand new. A couple dings were slightly deeper and couldn't be repaired this way. But they are very small. Heck, any car is bound to get a few dings eventually unless you never drive it. But the difference between the string of scrapes that were, versus what I see now is really astounding.

So basically nothing to complain or question about here. I am just happy that I was finally able to get something satisfactory repaired for under $250.00 on my car.

pat

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See you there!

greg59

Hello everyone,
I recently just replaced my battery, simple stuff really. After I did this I turned the power back on and the control panel inside the car comes on, however the outside temp guage stars at 54 and works it's way down to the outside temperature.

Also the indicators don't work and the 4 ways dont work. I checked every single fuse that car has and they are all good.

Has anyone heard or had this happen to them before?
Any idea's thoughts??

HELP!!!!!

joen05

Hi all,

I was just wondering how much the 30k maintenance and a rear brake(s) replacement should go for? Dealer quoted just over $900...

pscheid

Hi Joen,

You lumped two things together.......the 30K maintenance and the rear brake job. And you didn't state the year/model of G35. So it is difficult to say what is acceptable and what may be out of wack.

Jack..

joen05

Oooo sorry. It's an 08 G35x.

The 30k maintenance was a little over $500.

The brakes were just about $400.

Thanks for the quick feedback....

pat

You can find out what exactly is recommended and get an approximate idea of the cost here as well: Maintenance Schedules, Recalls and Technical Service Bulletins. The costs may be a bit low here, but it will give you an idea.

Hope it helps!

greg59

I have a 03 G35 Sedan. In the past week the indicators lights on my dash have stopped working, my clock and my hazard. The actual lights still work on the indicator and hazard, it just doesn't show on the dash that they are on. I have checked all the fuses and everything is ok.

Does anyone have any ideas?? I would appreciate the advice.

Regards,
Greg

pfreak76

Guys - So I have a 2004 G35 Sedan - fully loaded, that I bought new. I drove it about 12K/year until, last year after my wife started driving it to school. It has 72K miles on it already and will be driven about 90miles a day on the freeway for the next year. I am guessing that worst case it will pile up another 18-20K miles by end of next year.

So far I have changed the brakes on this one once and the tires from Costco. Other than that there have been no major expenses, but regular oil changes. So it is safe to say that this car has been trouble free all these years.

Does anyone know if it is super expensive to pay maintainence once the car accumulates high mileage? What are the known failure mechanisms? We have talked about potentially selling this car off and buying a Nissan/Honda with lower mileage to use as a commuter vehicle.

Any suggestions/pointers on this one? If we kept the car or about 2 more years, would it be worth it? We get about 24mpg average on the freeway -not bad at all..

Thanks

cheerioboy26

I have a 2003 sedan which is basically the same vehicle. I have 100K on it now, no major issues just normal maintenance. I plan on keeping it a couple more years, with actually more planned driving - 20K per year upcoming.

greg59

Putting tires from Costco on an Infinity is like buying a Ferrari and painting it pink!!!!

C'mon, you drive a nice car, it deserves good rubber!!!

It will re-pay you!!

jimlacourse

I also have a 2003 sedan, it has 67K on it, but would like to know if before you reached the 100K if you changed the timing belt?

pfreak76

Dude I got $1100 tires from Costco.. They were a premium brand.. but just cheaper from costco

pfreak76

Sounds very promising.

Other than breaks and tires.. did you incur any major costs? Should I be worried about anything? I just got a 750Li Beamer and I am paranoid about potentially paying premium maintainence costs for the Infiniti (Beamers eat you up on maintainence).

Thanks

pfreak76

I got the 40K service done at the dealer - but boy or boy are they a rip-off. Its best to look at the specific things included in the list and get it done from like Midas or something.. Belts was a part of it. I believe the next service is around 60K or so - there is a list of these recommended actions available online. .Just google it.

esfoad

I just hit 92K miles on my 05 G35X. So far no problems. I changed the brakes once at 45K and I'm about to change them again. I plan to keep the car at least one more year and should hit 115K-120K miles. These are great cars.

sl530

I have approximately 192,000 on my 04 and car continues to run great. Put 180 highway miles a day about 4-5 days a week. I am going to drive until the wheels fall off. If you run the interstate, use synthetic oil and change every 8-10k miles and you should be good to go. Also, when its time to replace rotors get some after market models from Brembo and warping problems should go away.

jimlacourse

SL530 you say you have 192,000, did you change the timing belt?

darrinzramz

Of course!!!! KEEP IT!!!!,if it's running great,then some-time down the road you put a new engine and trans in it,and it's ALOT cheaper than buying a new one!!??,don't you think!!!.I plan on doing that w/my 2004,it's only got 39,000mi,I've already put a stage 4 supercharger on mine and it runs AWESOME!!!,i truly love this car,will not sell it or trade it in!!!at any time

esfoad

These cars have a timing chain, not a belt. Should never have to be changed

pscheid

Thank you for starting this discussion. It is bound to spark a number of different opinions. Having a car to serve as four wheels and transportation is one take. Functionality another. Entertainment another. Reliability at a reasonable long term cost another. We are not going to get it all, but some cars fill multiple wants and needs better than others. The G is one of those.

Personally, we drive cars cradle to grave. Wife gets the new one and I drive the hand me downs. Figure 10-12 years total life expectancy. I just have to make sure what my wife wants next is something I would eventually enjoy. Once the car is paid off, you can pay for a lot of repairs and not be concerned a lick because it it still cheaper than the car payments. Insurance costs drop as do annual excise taxes (in MA.) Depreciation expense becomes a non issue also..

I have never had an engine failure. Oil changes and coolant......keep those up to snuff and the car will rust out before the engine wears out. Transmissions have been another expensive story despite the correct maintence schedule. Same with a/c units. I have never figured out if it was due to buying American or running a couple of teens through the pipeline at the same time I owned the cars. The G35 Coupe is my first venture into foreign. Figure that we get about 120,000 miles out of a car on average.

Like the others who have responded, I stay away from dealers for repairs, and certainly mantenance, if humanly possible except for warranty work. Have the same private mechanic for 15 years. Have been selective on rotor/pad replacement as one posted. Tires......swiched to all seasons for some winter traction, TireRack or a local tire dealer that will match the price. Currently running Bridgestone Potenza 960AS at about one third less than the oem Michelin summer tires, and I love them.

Most have you have read the rants about the G's fuel economy. It isn't great but the car is no Civic either. But the Coupe can consistently get 26-27 highway on cruise for the long haul at the speed limits plus 7. Around town 17-18. Mixed 20-21. Add in the right foot "happies" for some fun and everything plummets from there. But that for me is where the fun factor outweighs practicality.

I'm underwhelmed by the Coupe's tiny trunk, but it is not intended to be ultra practical. With the back seat folded down, no space issues. And I never ride in the back seat, didn't buy the car to be a people hauler, yet the back seat is surprisingly functional for what the car is.

So my opinion is keep it and drive it to death.

triblkg

Were you ever able to determine what caused your G35 to hesitate when attempting to start? I have a simular problem that has been dubbed an extended crank.

Thanks!

triblkg

I purchased G35 new approx. 1 year ago, after about 12k miles I started experiencing (ramdomly) what can only be described as an extended crank problem. It has not yet failed to start however, it is scary when you are away from home and your car takes several seconds(more than 6) to start. I know it is not bad gas as I have switched to several different brands and the problem still happens. There are no error codes generated and the dealership has replaced several parts to no avail. I have been attempting to get Nissan/Infiniti to step up and address the problem however, all they seem to want to do is continue swapping out parts. Has anyone else had a similar problem with a starting hesitation or extended crank?

Thanks for your replies!

darrinzramz

you need to explain it a little better!!,it cranks but won't start or a low battery voltage,could be faulty starter?,cam shaft pos.sensor?,timing off a bit,when you get it started does it run properly!!!.Or does it have hesitation problems??,please try to give me a more accurate symtom(s) your sedan is having!!

triblkg

The car hesitates(takes longer to start) during starting/cranking process; it does crank, after a while, and so far starts. Start time varies taking anywhere between 2 secs and approx. 12 secs before it starts. Battery voltage is good(new battery). Crank/Cam pos. sensors are good - newly replaced as well as IPDM, fuel pump and fuel pressure sensor. The problem does not generate any error msgs.

Sorry about not providing more info this is the first time I have ever posted.

salsero63

after scanning the first time, showing the cam sensor #2; put it on and fixed that problem, then was showing the #1 sensor; put new one in and still showing the code for #1; took it back to auto part thinking was damage, got another new sensor and the lights still on; every time I erase the code, lights go out run the car for 1 min and/or 1hr as soon I shut the eng down and crank it back up lights are on again and will not go away and the same code for #1 sensor shows up again with a new sensor; the car runs fine, has power, however, takes few seconds longer to start. I used an $8,000 comp to scan and erase the code, nothing shuts this lights. The car has 108,000 miles never gave me any problems, and still running like a champ, with the same lights on. Has front and back new brakes, new tires, rotors in good shape, however, never machined. need help on this one.

jdonnee1

My son is looking for a G35 Coupe. I see plenty of used ones in his price range with between 50,000 and 80,000 miles. Should I have any concerns with this amount of mileage from a maintenance standpoint.

raizelgs

Not if the car has been maintained. The 2004's had some brake issues, but I have an 2005 with 60,000 miles and have only replaced the rear brakes once, with the fronts having half of the original pads still OK.

I also changed some belts and filters and have had regular oil changes.

lewisw

Have a 2004 w/ 72,000 mi. Have done break pads once, and rear tires about every 22-24,000 miles. I'm a fairly conservative driver. Other than that, the normal maintenance stuff. Been a trouble free car.

darrinzramz

That's real good!!!!!,the only things I would suggest is:change pads & rotors to after-market ones!!!,OEM on this car wear-out ALOT faster than other cars,I changed my car's rotors and pads to:Hawk HPS pads,and EBC rotors,not very expensive and will hold-up alot longer than OEM pads & rotors PLUS alot better braking and alot less dust!!!

darrinzramz

I might have to disagree w/you on that brakes issue!!,I have 2004 Infiniti G35 sedan I bought in Jan.2008,had the dealer put new front brake pads and new rotors on and a year & 1/2 later the pads were worn down almost 70%!!!!.I drive around town alot that does increase brake use alot more.Remember also these brakes bite really nice!!,may-be that's WHY they wear out alot quicker than other cars,I changed my brake pads & rotors to:Hawk HPS pads & EBC rotors since that change there is alot less brake dust on my wheels & alot better stopping power,I'll be checking these pads too,soon as I rotate my tires at next interval.

mrwatts

I attempted to open the moonroof, and it made a grinding sounds. When closing it made the same sound. But didn't close completely, is there a manual way to close it without having to open the headliner?

darrinzramz

what year is the car??,If it's under warranty(which I assume it may not be!)be carefull !!!,does it sound like a motor problem or maybe dirt or sand in the track!!???,does it move smoothly when closing or does it stagger or jump a little when closing??.If you are not sure you really should let the dealer service it only!!!,I have an extended warranty on my car to protect me from things like this that might pop-up!!!,Darrin