Has anyone bought an 07 MDX with Technology and Entertainment package in Phoenix, Arizona? If so what kind of deal were u offered? Tried at Acura Of Peoria back in feb and left a bad taste in my mouth because they wouldn't budge on the price 45,695 + tax. We wanted our MDX w/ Tech & Ent Pkg in Aberdeen Green Metallic with only one freakin accessory- auto dimming rearview mirror. I heard about some one getting a good deal on a demo, but what are the chances of one in the color I want being available. I hope Acura has better incentives for april. Please anyone in the Phoenix/Scottsdale/Tempe area let me know.
I'm in Scottsdale. Don't walk into any dealership to negotiate because that marks you as a sucker.
Acura Scottsdale gave us the "We don't negotiate on these, there's a 30 person waitlist" So, I went home and e-mailed them, they immediately dropped $1000 off. I told them "thanks but I'll shop more" They went to $2000 off, then that plus free oil changes, wheel locks and "We'll beat anyone's price". Peoria went from 40665 for a base model straight to 37995. Get on the internet, and e-mail the internet sales department of the 3 Phoenix area dealers and Chapman in Tucson. They are very eager for your business when you're a just a click away from their competition.
Looking to buy the MDX 2007 base model. The best offer I've gotten till yet, is about 1K over the Invoice price. Anyone's gotten a better price? I am based in the DC Metro Area.
I am interested in the base model too. I would like to know any good deal(er)s anywhere in california. i am in bay area, but willing to travel LA, Sacramento, Fresno etc if I can get for invoice price.
That's not a great deal. If you used carsdirect.com, it would have cost you $41,453. I requested quotes from OC, Riverside and LA dealers and found carsdirect very competitive with what they were giving me.
Just wondering whether there should be any specific strategy while dealing with the Finance People in the dealership ?
I bought the 2007 MDX, and the sales people "avoided" / "did some muted nods" when I asked about the finance with the dealership. They made my fill the credit application even before I came into the agreement to buy.
When I ended up in the finance department, they came up with 7.99 APR and 66 months finance papers. It was like a shock to me. They didn't even ask whether I have my own finance, my preference of terms (3 year / 5 / 6 year loan). I had asked them to change the duration of loan etc and made my own adjustments later on.
1.99% is just for the RDX and other models. 2007 MDX is not eligible, according to them. (may be true).
I received a quote for a new MDX basde model at 37,500. I received higher quotes from 2 other dealers. 3 other dealers would not quote me over the phone or internet. 3 questions: Can I beat that price? Also, I have never leased a vehicle before. I was quoted 5.99 on a 36 month lease with no money down. Paymeny was around $537. Is that good? If I lease do I have to use the dealers financing? Thanks for anyone's help.
Ended up leasing a 2007 MDX Sport for $42,588 (includes destination) at Sierra Acura in Alhambra, CA. You have to go through internet sales and they're only selling it at this price because they got an extra shipment in. Not sure if the other packages will have such a good discount?
We have 3 Acura dealerships in our metro area, and I have been monitoring their inventory online. All of the dealers have a good inventory of MDX's in stock and it seems to be growing. Is this a sign that better deals are ahead? Has anyone shopped the Twin Cities area dealers lately, and if so which one seems the most eager to deal?
I live in N. Alabama and have also been looking... please post dealer and price if you buy. Seems like one owner for all honda/acura up here. I'm considering either the tech/entertainment or the sport/entertainment.
During a recent test drive in sport/entertainment my teen complained about a really rough ride in the second row seat. Before I buy, I'll have to test drive both sport and the non-sport to see the difference and also get a better idea of the comfort ride in the sport.
I leased a 2007 MDX Sport for 36 months at 12,000 miles.
MSRP: $46,265 Cap Cost: 42,588 Acq Fee: 595 Down: 3.86 (just to make my due at lease even) MF: .0029 (can do a security deposit for .0028 mf) Residual: 59% Sales Tax: 7.75%
Due At Signing First month + tax / license fees: $1097
I am also in Twin Cities area and have been keeping an eye on good MDX deals. My target car is Tech or Tech+RES. Probably I will pull the trigger during the summer, but my date is flexible depend on if there is a good deal available. Please keep us posted on what kind of deal/quotes you will get. Thanks. Good luck.
I purchased a 2007 MDX with Tech Package in the last week of March. I paid $40,280 + Tax + Registration. I purchased from Open Road Acura of Wayne, NJ. This was the best deal I could get after negotiating with three dealers. My first color preference happened to be in stock at the dealership, so I'm not sure if I got special pricing for in-stock car.
2005 Certified Pre Owned Acura MDX with 24,000 miles, Touring package with Navigation. Dealer quoted a price of $36,500 (including taxes & tags). Is this a good price?
A brand new 2007 MDX at sticker with ZERO miles and the tech package is $43K. Resale on the older body style is only going to get hammered worse now that the new ones are out.
hostag: I would like to get the same info, too. David McDavid Acura in Plano told us they could go a little lower than MSRP, but not much. I did not negotiate at all - will do that over the internet with a few other dealers, too. Adding a 4th question -
(4) How long before the purchase should I start e-mailing the dealerships asking for their best price? 1month? 2? Planning to get MDX/Tech, but am I no hurry to buy. Thanks, - MS.
msindallas: i am in the same shoes .. want to buy but not in a hurry. a trend i've been seeing is you can get a good deal near the end of the month. u can start sending / bouncing emails in the beginning / middle of the month and close in the end. Always try to get a car available in the lot (not a pre-sale / pre-order). unless your area has a very strong demand and very short supply, you should get more than "a little lower than MSRP". I think every dealer will start with that line. Good luck and keep us posted.
Yeah...Acura dealers sucks big time!! I got a reasonable deal of $39,800 including destination for 2007 MDX/Techno from DCH-Heart, NY, and Rosenthal Acura in MD beat it by an additional $200. Anyway, this was for a car to be picked up by March end. I could not get my license/insurance transferred from IL to PA on time so could not finish the deal. Now in April when I got everything organized, I called Rosenthal to make sure if I still have that deal. The dealer affirmed and made me to drive down just to tell that they will not honor the deal any more....What a F***ing loosers!! They have to be idiots, if I can get these despo dealers down to $39,600 for MDX/Tech including destination at the March end, I can definitely find dozen others giving me better deal at the end of April.....But seriously thinking to go for an another Brand, like Lexus!!
Just want to say that it's great that we have this forum. I told Acura dealer that I will do more price research and will read few MDX forums on internet before buying my MDX and he told me that I am killing him... :-) I am looking to get MDX with Tech and auto rearview mirror in May. If anybody got MDX in Maryland I would appreciate any info... Thank you.
A local dealer here in South Jersey sent me an emal and willing to sell @ invoice of $42,094 plus tax and fees such as motor vehicle fees, and doc fees. This will come up to a total of $45,700.08.
Is this a good deal or an email bait to get me in ?
Of course, the color of my choice.
Any other things I need to clarify to make sure it is not just an email enticement.
You need to indicate what equipment packages you are getting at that price or we can't tell you if it is a good deal.
You guys in NY and NJ apparently get all the deals. In the Denver area MDX is in such high demand that dealers are getting sticker plus an extra $500-$1000 for "market adjustment" pricing on these cars.
I'll wait till early next year and see if I can get a deal on an '08 or '07 close out.
Black w/Parchment 07 with Tech/Ent. and added side body molding and roof rack with rails. $43,527 plus 599 dlr. fee, tax and tags . This price was the first and only price given over the internet. I know we are not supposed to name names but it was Tony King. I wanted to give it out because I felt bad... I ended up using his figure to show Palm Beach Acura in order to get the car there. Without it they wouldnt even talk to me and insisted on 44,900. King was a great guy to talk to on the phone w/o a hassle. It was simply too far of a drive for me. The sales people at Acura, including the internet person, were typical salespeople plus some attitude. It killed me to do the deal with them, but money talks........
What's a good deal to "you" is not necessarily a good deal to "me" or anyone else... and honestly this is such a foolish question I have to elaborate.
If you want to know if you got a good deal find out what invoice (dealer cost) is on the vehicle and how much above or below that you paid.
Market forces are different in different cities. Some people are lucky to get $500 off of sticker even if they ship many different vehicles because the vehicle is in demand in their market or the particular color combination they want is in high demand and sells more quickly at local dealerships.
In other markets dealers have dozens of vehicles sitting on the lot costing them money that they need to move right away and are willing to bring down to invoice price almost immediately with some negotiation.
A "good deal" is being happy with the price you paid for the vehicle you got. Are you happy with the price you paid? If yes then you got a good deal.
In the end, if you are willing to spend that much, what's another couple thousands to get what you really want. I would say a big congratz for all the buyers getting such a super car, regardless of the buying price.
Now to the detail - Observing this forum, I notice NJ buyers got (close to) invoice price. In TX, a little (500-1k) below MSRP is the norm. West Coast - I see buyers getting midrange in between invoice and MSRP.
The spread between invoice and MSRP is about 4k typically. I would say it's a reasonably good deal, if you get somewhere in the midrange (+1k to +3k) from invoice price.
If you can sit and wait for the right car at the right price, try to get closer to the invoice. If you can't wait, then try to stay within that "+1 to +3" range. Just remember you're getting a really nice car (what's another thousand or two)
I have learned a lot from this forum and can't pull the trigger yet (due to personal reason). Will post my buying price and experience when i get mine.
This whole "did I get a good deal" is obviously a bit of human nature but sometimes reminds me of SUV threads where owners obsess over whether they are getting 15-16 miles per gallon on a $40,000+ vehicle.
If an extra $1,000 when you purchase a $40,000-$50,000 car is going to make or break you, buy a car you can really afford.
Not too long ago in this thread another potential buyer was crying about how an MDX lease was $600-$700 a month when leases on other vehicles are in the $500 range. Keep in mind that "lease deals" are usually done by manufacturers on slow selling vehicles to get them leased (sold to the leasing company). In these cases the manufacturer eats some of the cost of selling the vehicle at a discounted price. While great deals, don't expect these "subtended leases" on new, hot vehicles that are selling well. These are luxury vehicles and your budget for them should appropriately reflect that.
I think that the price thread is useful because it gives a barometer of what prices are like in different markets.
Paid $41,780 for 2007 MDX w/tech package. Price equals kbb.com value of trade plus trade difference. Central Indiana MDX prices appear to be less competitive than mega-metropolitan areas, especially East coast, but better than some areas of the US.
I shopped for months, priced for weeks and we finally got our MDX! We bought a 2007 MDX TECH in Aberdeen Green/Parchment, it was a very difficult combination to find, but we love it. I live in the Orlando area, but traveled 2 hours North to Jacksonville to get out best deal. The dealer had to trade for the car with another dealer in Miami (6 hours South) and they still had the best price. It wasn't easy, but it was worth it. I contacted about 20 dealers in Florida by email and got a full range of quotes! Here are the details: 2007 MDX TECH price paid : $40,000.00 + $599.00 Dealer Fee + TTT = OTD at $43,225.77. We have only had it one day, but so far we love it! It did have a small problem with the center console/ change holder/ outlet that was damaged and not installed correctly, but the local Acura dealer is ordering the parts for us and they will be taking the new dash apart in a couple of weeks to fix it (OUCH!). All things considered we are pleased with our transaction as we look forward to many years of enjoyment from our new MDX! :shades:
If an extra $1,000 when you purchase a $40,000-$50,000 car is going to make or break you, buy a car you can really afford.
It is not a question of making or breaking, or how much we can afford. If we can pay $41K for a car, we could pay $43K, too (talking about MDX/Tech). The problem starts when the guy in the next cubicle at work starts boasting that he got the same vehicle for $39K - it makes me feel stupid and believe me, I can think of a bunch of ways to spend an extra $4K. Worse problem: when the wife points out a friend who got to pay $38K and tells me how I am no good at car shopping (and a lot of other things).
This is a wonderful forum, and I am so grateful for all the insights. To that end - a question - If similarly equipped vehicles are selling for $41K in Dallas and $39K in NJ/NY area, I might consider flying out to NY and drive the MDX back home. If I do that, what are the tax implications? Do I pay sales tax to NY or TX? What if I buy it over the internet? Is there such a thing?
I am planning to get one on 6/30/2007, will build the vehicle and start e-mailing the dealerships for their quotes on 5/15/2007. Lets see where it goes. Somehow cannot buy the car next month, for personal reasons. Oh well, will wait for one more month. Good wishes to y'all, - MS.
Do you have a method of purchasing by using email? I ask because I've used that method and it works. Within 6 hours, I received multiple offers and save 10k on an SUV.
You won't save $10K on an '07 MDX unless maybe you are in the upper Echelon at Acura. Best price people seem to be getting is invoice or slightly over, and that seems to be primarily in certain markets.
Again, if you are in a hot market for the car it will be difficult or impossible to get it for invoice unless you have a month or two (at least) to negotiate with several different dealers. Even then you might find that $1000-$2000 off is the best you can do.
As to others "boasting" of getting a better deal, well, what can I say, some people are better negotiators than others, but also, people LIE about the deals they get. All the time. As to your wife belittling you, can't help you there.
I seriously question the wisdom of buying a $40K+ vehicle and driving it across country to save a couple of thousand bucks. Not only will some of those savings evaporate after buying a ticket and gasoline, but the number one taboo of engine break in is to avoid running the engine at constant RPM for the first several hundred miles (which is exactly what is going to happen if you drive it on the highway for a couple of days)
This just goes to remind me why I pay more for a new car that I get to break in myself, rather than the huge savings of getting a two year old "peach" that is coming in from a lease return.
Totally understand your point about wanting the rock-bottom price. Considering different circumstances, of course there will be some other buyers getting lower than you. What I will do - just agree on a price that I can justify to my wife, neighbors, co-workers, etc. ... :P
Buying out-of-state: instead of dealer taking care of all the paperwork (title, registration, license, etc.), you do it yourself. Tax is also paid when you register & apply for title (If you ever bought a used car from private party, you know how it's like).
I don't think you can buy new car over the internet. You can however negotiate prices via email (... if you consider that buying over the internet.)
I am interested on your posting because I am also planning to buy in the month of June.
You'll probably get a better deal (..correction: get a deal you can justify..), if you buy car in stock. This will require quite a bit of emailing or calling around to find which dealer(s) has/have it. The best scenario is if a couple dealers have the car you want! You ping-pong the price between the 2 dealers and have them do "how low can you go", till one gives up (or until you give up ... :P )
If you include an accessory such as side steps and side body moldings does dealer need to charge for installation fee or should that already be included in the accessory price? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.Great forum by the way!
TOTALLY agree with your argument. I would feel very depressed if I spent 43K but my brother in NY only spent 40K for the same car. Anyway, the name of forum, Prices Paid & Buying Experience, the "price paid" part is put ahead of "buying experience" for a purpose....
I just bought one with tech/ent. added roof rails, side steps, and side body molding for 44k including destination charge; plus tax, title, and less then $100 dealer fee from PA.
>> just bought one with tech/ent. added roof rails, side steps, and side body molding for 44k including destination charge; plus tax, title, and less then $100 dealer fee from PA.
$44K including tax etc for tech/ent ?? This is way below invoice by atleast 1.5K ?? Hard to believe.
Comments
Don't walk into any dealership to negotiate because that marks you as a sucker.
Acura Scottsdale gave us the "We don't negotiate on these, there's a 30 person waitlist"
So, I went home and e-mailed them, they immediately dropped $1000 off. I told them "thanks but I'll shop more" They went to $2000 off, then that plus free oil changes, wheel locks and "We'll beat anyone's price". Peoria went from 40665 for a base model straight to 37995.
Get on the internet, and e-mail the internet sales department of the 3 Phoenix area dealers and Chapman in Tucson. They are very eager for your business when you're a just a click away from their competition.
Got it for 42097 + Plus Tax & Regis.
Do you think it is a good price ?
:shades:
Which dealer in NJ, please..?
Thanks
ED
thanks in advance.
I bought the 2007 MDX, and the sales people "avoided" / "did some muted nods" when I asked about the finance with the dealership. They made my fill the credit application even before I came into the agreement to buy.
When I ended up in the finance department, they came up with 7.99 APR and 66 months finance papers. It was like a shock to me. They didn't even ask whether I have my own finance, my preference of terms (3 year / 5 / 6 year loan). I had asked them to change the duration of loan etc and made my own adjustments later on.
1.99% is just for the RDX and other models. 2007 MDX is not eligible, according to them. (may be true).
What are your experiences ?
Tell them Howard sent ya!
During a recent test drive in sport/entertainment my teen complained about a really rough ride in the second row seat. Before I buy, I'll have to test drive both sport and the non-sport to see the difference and also get a better idea of the comfort ride in the sport.
If you don't mind me asking, what did your monthly lease payment come out too. Also, what was your total drive off?
Adam
Right now I am looking at this offer.
* 2007 MDX technology/sports package, including entertainment package
* 48 months
* 15,000/year
* $2,500 down
= $600/month payment
I leased a 2007 MDX Sport for 36 months at 12,000 miles.
MSRP: $46,265
Cap Cost: 42,588
Acq Fee: 595
Down: 3.86 (just to make my due at lease even)
MF: .0029 (can do a security deposit for .0028 mf)
Residual: 59%
Sales Tax: 7.75%
Due At Signing
First month + tax / license fees: $1097
Total Montly Fee: $695.60
Hope this helps.
Jay.
Thanks!
(4) How long before the purchase should I start e-mailing the dealerships asking for their best price? 1month? 2? Planning to get MDX/Tech, but am I no hurry to buy. Thanks, - MS.
i am in the same shoes .. want to buy but not in a hurry. a trend i've been seeing is you can get a good deal near the end of the month. u can start sending / bouncing emails in the beginning / middle of the month and close in the end. Always try to get a car available in the lot (not a pre-sale / pre-order).
unless your area has a very strong demand and very short supply, you should get more than "a little lower than MSRP". I think every dealer will start with that line.
Good luck and keep us posted.
breese
3758 at signing
460 per month
48 month
10000 miles/year
Is this a good deal or an email bait to get me in ?
Of course, the color of my choice.
Any other things I need to clarify to make sure it is not just an email enticement.
You guys in NY and NJ apparently get all the deals. In the Denver area MDX is in such high demand that dealers are getting sticker plus an extra $500-$1000 for "market adjustment" pricing on these cars.
I'll wait till early next year and see if I can get a deal on an '08 or '07 close out.
What dealer on the island quoted you that...we are looking on long island and that seems pretty good to me...thanks
also: do others have a view?
If you want to know if you got a good deal find out what invoice (dealer cost) is on the vehicle and how much above or below that you paid.
Market forces are different in different cities. Some people are lucky to get $500 off of sticker even if they ship many different vehicles because the vehicle is in demand in their market or the particular color combination they want is in high demand and sells more quickly at local dealerships.
In other markets dealers have dozens of vehicles sitting on the lot costing them money that they need to move right away and are willing to bring down to invoice price almost immediately with some negotiation.
A "good deal" is being happy with the price you paid for the vehicle you got. Are you happy with the price you paid? If yes then you got a good deal.
In the end, if you are willing to spend that much, what's another couple thousands to get what you really want. I would say a big congratz for all the buyers getting such a super car, regardless of the buying price.
Now to the detail - Observing this forum, I notice NJ buyers got (close to) invoice price. In TX, a little (500-1k) below MSRP is the norm. West Coast - I see buyers getting midrange in between invoice and MSRP.
The spread between invoice and MSRP is about 4k typically. I would say it's a reasonably good deal, if you get somewhere in the midrange (+1k to +3k) from invoice price.
If you can sit and wait for the right car at the right price, try to get closer to the invoice. If you can't wait, then try to stay within that "+1 to +3" range. Just remember you're getting a really nice car (what's another thousand or two)
I have learned a lot from this forum and can't pull the trigger yet (due to personal reason). Will post my buying price and experience when i get mine.
Peace,
If an extra $1,000 when you purchase a $40,000-$50,000 car is going to make or break you, buy a car you can really afford.
Not too long ago in this thread another potential buyer was crying about how an MDX lease was $600-$700 a month when leases on other vehicles are in the $500 range. Keep in mind that "lease deals" are usually done by manufacturers on slow selling vehicles to get them leased (sold to the leasing company). In these cases the manufacturer eats some of the cost of selling the vehicle at a discounted price. While great deals, don't expect these "subtended leases" on new, hot vehicles that are selling well. These are luxury vehicles and your budget for them should appropriately reflect that.
I think that the price thread is useful because it gives a barometer of what prices are like in different markets.
"Now that it's too late and I've already bought it, did I get a good deal?"
Thanks to all who post, the info was helpful!
If an extra $1,000 when you purchase a $40,000-$50,000 car is going to make or break you, buy a car you can really afford.
It is not a question of making or breaking, or how much we can afford. If we can pay $41K for a car, we could pay $43K, too (talking about MDX/Tech). The problem starts when the guy in the next cubicle at work starts boasting that he got the same vehicle for $39K - it makes me feel stupid and believe me, I can think of a bunch of ways to spend an extra $4K. Worse problem: when the wife points out a friend who got to pay $38K and tells me how I am no good at car shopping (and a lot of other things).
This is a wonderful forum, and I am so grateful for all the insights. To that end - a question - If similarly equipped vehicles are selling for $41K in Dallas and $39K in NJ/NY area, I might consider flying out to NY and drive the MDX back home. If I do that, what are the tax implications? Do I pay sales tax to NY or TX? What if I buy it over the internet? Is there such a thing?
I am planning to get one on 6/30/2007, will build the vehicle and start e-mailing the dealerships for their quotes on 5/15/2007. Lets see where it goes. Somehow
cannot buy the car next month, for personal reasons. Oh well, will wait for one more month. Good wishes to y'all, - MS.
Again, if you are in a hot market for the car it will be difficult or impossible to get it for invoice unless you have a month or two (at least) to negotiate with several different dealers. Even then you might find that $1000-$2000 off is the best you can do.
As to others "boasting" of getting a better deal, well, what can I say, some people are better negotiators than others, but also, people LIE about the deals they get. All the time. As to your wife belittling you, can't help you there.
I seriously question the wisdom of buying a $40K+ vehicle and driving it across country to save a couple of thousand bucks. Not only will some of those savings evaporate after buying a ticket and gasoline, but the number one taboo of engine break in is to avoid running the engine at constant RPM for the first several hundred miles (which is exactly what is going to happen if you drive it on the highway for a couple of days)
This just goes to remind me why I pay more for a new car that I get to break in myself, rather than the huge savings of getting a two year old "peach" that is coming in from a lease return.
Buying out-of-state: instead of dealer taking care of all the paperwork (title, registration, license, etc.), you do it yourself. Tax is also paid when you register & apply for title (If you ever bought a used car from private party, you know how it's like).
I don't think you can buy new car over the internet. You can however negotiate prices via email (... if you consider that buying over the internet.)
I am interested on your posting because I am also planning to buy in the month of June.
You'll probably get a better deal (..correction: get a deal you can justify..), if you buy car in stock. This will require quite a bit of emailing or calling around to find which dealer(s) has/have it. The best scenario is if a couple dealers have the car you want! You ping-pong the price between the 2 dealers and have them do "how low can you go", till one gives up (or until you give up ... :P )
Good luck and happy shopping ... or hunting.
If you include an accessory such as side steps and side body moldings does dealer need to charge for installation fee or should that already be included in the accessory price? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.Great forum by the way!
$44K including tax etc for tech/ent ?? This is way below invoice by atleast 1.5K ?? Hard to believe.
My initials are M.S.