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Comments
Honda says that's the stuff to use, and if you don't, you risk losing warranty coverage. And yes, they can do that.
I'm not saying it's going to happen, but it certainly could. And the manufacturer has the right to examine all facets of the claim since they are the guarntor of the warranty.
I would contact your insurance company and have them set you up with a glass replacement. By all means, have them use Honda glass, if it's available - most aftermarket glass is "pretty good", but some cheaper stuff will have distortions and will be noticeable to an appraiser (for future trade value).
You are taking a big chance if you use synthetic atf instead of honda atf-the clutches in the honda tranny require specific lubricity levels and those are provided by the honda atf. 3 quarts at $3 each every 30K miles-that is not big money-but a new tranny is big bucks.
One would reason that through R&D ample testing of the alternative was completed and found to be suitable for use, prior to recommending it within their manuals, if however they stipulate you have to use only their product to maintain the warranty does'nt this fall within some infraction of the Manguson act
I just spent $100 on the 7500 mile maint & just to day I spent $200 on the 15000 mile maintenance.
Are they necessary to be done, or can I do without them (i.e. just do regular oil change) ?
For example, when the car reaches 30k, the maintenance done will cost $ 400!
I just think that the dealer may be putting a lot of $$$ in his/her pocket...am I wrong ?? please help because I don't feel like spending all this money on a leased car!
any comments are highly appreciated...
Same glass IMO.
I had an Alero last year and I got by fine just by doing regular oil changes....any comments ?!
"Torque" your lugnuts after the service to lessen future warpage. It's short for equal tightening of the lugnuts with a torque wrench so warpage from brake-heat dissipation is minimized.
As to coolant type, sorry don't have info. Maybe someone on this forum can reply, or do a websearch.
As to Honda coolant, ther are only two types of coolant made to my knowledge, the Orange Dexcool or equivalent and the green ethelene glycon still used by most of the world. Honda coolant if a different color is probably compatibile with one of the two types!
Post your question and the good guys at that site (topics cover predominantly early 90s Hondas) will respond within a day or 2.
Some tire places automatically torque to 100 fp or more regardless of what you tell them-when ever I have to let them mount tires-take my click type torque wrench and when it comes time to torque them down-I hand them the wrench. Replacing rotors on older Honda's is an expensive proposition-the rotor is pressed into the bearing assembly-you usually can not remove the rotor without replacing the bearing.
unless there is contamination, hard use aka towing, or overheating, the 30,000 change is wasteful. but if you have to do it, and I always have, I say do the filter at the same time and be sure the bigger loose chunks of the transmission are taken out of circulation. also wipe down the metal whiskers on the magnets or replace them in the pan.
joe average or jane dull doing the mall thing and poking along in the traffic jam to and from work can wait to 60,000 or later, monitoring the state of the fluid off the dipstick for changes.
"Also, whether you rotate every 5000 or 10,000 also does not make a difference as you still get the same wear on a tire"
It makes a HUGE difference, especially on a front drive car.
remove the hub, so you basically looking in new bearing(puller,BFH,propane torch to remove the hub),new rotors and 2-3 hours of labor. By doing axle at same time(if you have water in CV joint -
it is on way out) you can save some hours of labor cost.
It makes a HUGE difference, especially on a front drive car.
Way off base.
Over 50,000 miles I will have rotated my tires 5 times but you will have rotated them 10 times. We both get the same mileage I GUARANTEE it! I have simply gone 5000 more miles before rotating but it is compensated for by going 5000 more in each location. It makes no difference believe me. In fact, you could go 12,500 and only rotate 4 times. The tires on each axle get the same amount of miles just on each one longer then yours.
If you mostly drive around town, the steering tires tend to get pretty rounded off and chewed up relatively quickly, which makes them noisy, so in this case it is better to rotate them more frequently. I have a friend in this situation - he never rotates his tires at all, but just replaces them one pair at a time, and he loses miles on each set that he would have had if he rotated them.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
You know, I've raced cars for 23 years. I was a regional manager for a huge tire/wheel company (Super Shops, Inc (HP parts, tires and wheels)) and I lost count of all the classes and seminars I've attended from BFG, Michelin, Dunlop and Yokohama. Additionally, I've dealt with literally thousands of tire customers through various stages of their tire ownership experiences. You might say I know more than the average guy about how tires work and wear.
On a front drive car especially, the front tires take a beating with lateral loads and torque application that usually causes wear patterns on the outside of the tread. Once you let a tire go for 10-12K and that pattern starts, there's no reversing it and it gets worse fast. The only thing you can do is run the tires on the front position for shorter intervals, rotating them frequently, so they spend time on the rear where they wear much more evenly.
I could really care less if armtdm or anyone else wants to put on a brand new set of tires and do burnouts 'til the cord shows - it's not my money.
The fact that someone actually ARGUES such a commonly known fact with goofy logic, made-up mathematical equations, and absolutely no idea of what he's talking about bugs me. The reason it bugs me is if someone jumped on Edmunds looking for tire info and read a few of those posts, they'd think it was OK to use such a foolish maintenance concept.
I feel a responsibility towards people who just hop into these discussions looking for information and aren't "in the know". It's our responsibility NOT to mislead them with incorrect info.
However, as someone else pointed out they rotate every 15,000 and a lot depends on the the type of driving and how one does drive. In addition, as you know, tires have chagned dramatically over your 23 years of experience and I know that you are factoring that into your comments.
So, as with most things in auto maintenance, there is no absolute, it is whatever floats your boat and makes you feel good with that warm and fuzzy feeling that comes with the belief that your car is well maintained. That is 5000 mile rotations for many people for others 7500 to 15,000. Just depends on the car, driving habits, climate, road conditions, and who does your maintenance.
Oh, and tire pressure which no one has mentioned. A tire inflated to near the max PSI will wear longer then one inflated to 26 PSI on a tire with a max of 35 psi. You won't get the ride but a pressure of 30-32 PSI will yield more mileage (especially on the front of a FWD car) then a tire at 26 PSI.
Do you concur with that statement????
Don't forget that if you overinflate the tire, you will end up with an uneven wear "line" down the middle of the tread.
AFAIK, car manufacturers pretty much unanimously recommend tire rotation at 7500 miles, and there is no doubt this will improve tire wear a lot, and help you get max mileage from each set. I merely meant to say that being lazy about it will not necessarily spell disaster, or even the loss of a significant portion of the potential treadwear of your tires, depending on your driving patterns.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)