Periodic Maintenance

maxhonda99

I have a 2000 Accord. I see where the first filter goes under the glovebox, it seems like I can do that one myself.

Where does the other filter go?

Anybody know any online sites where I can buy both Combi filters?

treoster

Folks,
What, in your experience, is the best product to protect the dash with? I've used Armor All in the past, but don't like it much.

Cloth/fabric covers are out, as they aren't for me.

Thanks in advance.

armtdm

Mequairs SHINE. Spray and wipe, lasts quite a while even on outside use

inkie

Another good product is Lexol's Vinylex at auto stores or the ultimate, Protectant 303 which you can get in boat stores.

inkie

On the 2000 both filters are in the same place. Don't attempt the job until you get some diagrams on removal. The Accord board has a lot of posts on this subject and Handa accesories.com has the download instructions. Take battery cables off because passenger air bag sensor is close to area you are working in. Nothing happened to me when I changed it but a buddy of mine inflated the bag changing the filters.

mitchflorida

wow . .inflated the airbags by mistake??? How much did that cost him? Ironic, trying to save $40 in labor, and being hammered for a new airbag instead. . .

There is a lesson there somewhere.

hmurphy

Is there any logic to the "3 months or 3,000 miles" oil change recommendation? I'm following the severe conditions service schedule in my manual, but I don't drive more than 5,000 miles a year. That means I won't hit 3,750 for a while. Should I stick with every three months instead for my oil changes?

zueslewis

for the time issue is that you get condensation inside your engine over time. Regular use (15K miles a year) keeps it away, but sitting for long periods and/or doing just a few quick, short trips per week adds to the condensation issue.

The water element breaks down oil over time, causing it to lose its strength and lubricating abilities.

inkie

mitchflorida he is a detective so he worked it out with some of his acquaintances and it cost him around 300 bucks for a bag out of a wreck and installation.

hmurphy, Listen to the experts, change at 3000 or 4000 miles including filter thats only three time a year. You won't be sorry.

To satisfy yor self and answer your own question take a chance, go to 7500 miles and send the oil out for analysis.

nippononly

brought on by short trips, with little mileage per year! Change the oil at least three times per year.

hmurphy

Since I only drive about 5,000 miles per year, I will switch to the every three months schedule instead, rather than every 3,000 miles. It can't hurt.

mitchflorida

Follow the "severe" schedule only if you drive in one or more of these conditions most of the time:
 Trips of less than 5 miles (less than 10 in freezing weather)
 Extremely hot weather (over 90 degrees F)
 Extensive idling or stop-and-go driving
 Trailer towing, driving with a car-top carrier, or driving in the mountains
 Muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads

Following the "severe conditions" guidelines won't help your Honda unless you really do drive under those conditions. Many vehicle owners waste time, money, and oil on unnecessary oil changes, for example. The quality of engine oil and filters has steadily improved to keep pace with the requirements of new engines

fleetwoodsimca

I have never read an authoritative source that had a convincing argument for three month oil changes. I sincerely believe that one oil and filter change per year, or every 3K miles (which ever comes first) can be adequate.

tboner

So take what I say with a grain of salt. It depends on how you get to your 3K miles/year (or whatever your figure is)

If you drive nearly everyday, say 350 days, you are driving fewer than 10 miles each day. If that is a trip out and a trip back, does your engine ever get warm?

Why is that important? Well, cold engines today have the fuel mixture enriched, so more fuel is entering the cylinder with every injector pulse. If that fuel doesn't burn, it washes down the cylinder walls and contaminates the oil.

Combustion also produces water vapor as one of the natural products. This water combines with any Oxides of Nitrogen to form nitric acid (IIRC) which I figure isn't good for bearings, camshafts, etc. This water never gets boiled out of a cold engine and will collect in there, making it easier for these acids to form.

So I agree, that if you drive short trips every day, get that oil changed every three months.

Now I get to 5-7k/year with my SVT Contour, but then I typically only drive it on the weekends. But that means I'm driving it a hundred or so miles when I get it out. I change every 6 months with Mobil 1.

But I think it depends on more than just the annual mileage, but also, how you accumulate it. There are many different ways to get to 3-7K miles/year.

TB

imidazol97

I agree TBoner. It takes a chemist's eye view to think about what's happening in the oil in the engine. The contaminants from gasoline and combustion products get down into the crankcase area at all times -- more at startup. They are always being sucked out by the PVC system at a slow rate and reburned.

But when the oil get hot, these contaminants, including the water, evaporate and are sucked out over time. So the temperature of the oil and the long drive times clean up the oil

To check that, smell the dipstick after a week of short trips to the corner and back. Pull it out after you get home and smell the oil. Then smell the oil after a 100 mile trip with most of the time spent at temperature and speed. There'll be only slight gas smells left.

The contaminants are part of what the additives in the oil are meant to neutralize. So when these additives have handles as much as they can from lots of short trips with months of dead time having passed, these contaminants are doing damage. I'll change mine every 3 months. I do it myself and oil and filters are cheap. The old oil is recycled by my city.

If a car has rarely been driven, and if the trips are 10 miles or more, maybe more time could lapse between oil changes. But those short little trips are polluting the oil even though they don't add up the mileage. Synthetic oils have better additives for handling more contaminants over the longer recommended change interval, but they cost more. It's one's own thoughtful choice there if it fits the useage pattern for the car.
 
As Fram used to advertise, pay me now or pay me later with an early engine wear occurring.

alcan

Combustion blowby also introduces sulfur into the crankcase where it combines with water from condensation to form sulphuric acid. Bearing acid etching is common in short-trip, low oil change frequency engines.

mitchflorida

You will void your Honda Warranty if you don't change oil at least every six months, regardless of the mileage.

venanzik

I have a 92 accord and was wanted to know if it is difficult to change the ac format to the new cheaper environmental friendly formula? I heard there were kits made to do this.

bburton3

If it is still working-leave it alone-the newer stuff does not cool as well-only reason to change is to avoid the huge prices for any freon still available out there. You would actually be harming the environment to change if the unit is not leaking cause when changing even with the pumps and all the support equipment, you loose some freon to the atmosphere. Used to service freon systems used on meat cases and large freezers. Oh for a few 100# tanks of that stuff now.

nippononly

it is almost like night and day: the freon-based system will blow so much colder! Don't change it unless it doesn't work any more. In that case switching to R134a might cost $500 or so - a friend of mine just switched over and paid that much. His A/C had quit and he had one of the last freon cars...it is very expensive to charge those now, if it is possible at all.

cutehumor

I'm going to take a 96 Pontiac sunfire 2.2 liter to have the transmission fluid and filter changed, antifreeze flushed and upper and lower radiator hoses replaced. does anyone have a manual stating how long it should take to do these procedures? the guy I talked to at a shop said about three hours.

slvrexl

For those who have or have had leather on your Accord...my brand new EX-L is out in the sun regularly and I am considering a sun visor. But, if I do not purchase one, are the seats pretreated with any conditioner to avoid sun damage, fading from the sun? Also, are they waterproofed from the factory?

I have no problem treating them myself, but don't want to if they already have something on them from the beginning.

Any guidance or suggestions?

cruising

I own a 2000 Honda Accord with V-6 engine.

Oil and filter changed at dealer every 3,000 miles since car was new.

Since the last two oil changes, dealer has started using 5w-20 oil instead of 5w-30 as called for in owners manual.

I've questioned dealer on the switch...they showed me a chart from Honda that calls for use of 5w-20 oil in their engines from 1999 and newer.

Anybody else run into this? Is 5w-20 correct??

Your comments please.

swschrad

for a number of engines, back several years.

it's basically for higher CAFE numbers, which benefit the automaker and not necessarily you.

if you're under warranty, and your manual says 5w-30, that's still OK in my humble opinion. if your manual says 5w-20, and you want your warranty coverage, better use it. if the automaker changes warranty requirements and says you have to use mouse sweat, better start working the mice out and squeezing their little towels if you want to preserve your rights under warranty.

there was a long and hotly-argued thread on this, try searching on "5w-20" for that.

inkie

I also own a 2000 V6, have always used 5W30 as the handbook and oil cap states. I do my own changes and have been using Quaker State since they offer an engine warranty and my Honda warranty is over. I personally would not be comfortable with the 5W20 in the 2000. As Swschrad states I have a 2002 CRV thats still under warranty so I am forced to use the 5w20. The oil is very low in viscosity and its still to early for the experts to verify that its not detrimental to the engines. I change oil every 3months or 5000 miles to avoid any problems. I will change to 5W30 when the warranty expires. You can go to: www.bobistheoilguy.com and see what the oil nuts say.

mikek37

Hmm, bob the oil guy or the engineers at Honda and other large oil companies. The question is which one would you trust. You spend good money on a vehicle, but dont have enough trust in the company in regards to what oil they reccomend. GIVE ME A BREAK.

The same was said about 5W30 ( The oil you think is a GOd send) when it first came out, oh its too thin, its vicosity wil break down after this and that, blah blah blah.

"Still early for experst to verify", and you got this information from who, BOB, sounds like a good source for subjective information.

Have a little bit of faith and stop preaching that 5w20 is the devil oil. Ten years down the line you will be the one who preaches against the new lower viscosity devil oil.

Honda KNOWS best!

armtdm

Yes, Honda knew best and it printed 5W30 in the owners manual when the car was manufactured. Thus, the use of a lower weight oil may produce the same results in terms of longevity (yet to be proven) but if the 5W30 is available I would definitely use it over the 5W20.

Now a new Honda may be different but this is an older model pre 5W20 specs.

bosmr

I JUST SAW A 98 HONDA ACCORD IN MINT CONDITION. SELLER SAID HONDA DEALER HAS DONE ALL REQURIED MANINTANCE DURING LIFE OF CAR. CAR HAS 87,000 MILE ON IT. HE SAID IT'S GOING TO NEED A NEW TIMEING BELT CAUSE IT'S GETTING CLOSE TO 100,000 MLIES . ARE WE STILL CHANGING TIMING BELTS EVERY 100,000 MILES ??? IF SO WHAT ELSE NEEDS TO BE DONE WHILE THE TIMEING BELT IS BEING REPLACE??

ANY SUGGESTIONS ?

inkie

I am not touting any oil, I use 10W30, synthetic, 5W30 and of course 5W20. I am a retired chemist so I know something about tribology. The poster asked for opinions so I gave him mine and sent him to a site where he can get more insight in the use and testing of petroleum products for autos and machinary.Most of the guys on this site are knowledgeable in this field and offer good advice and testing procedures. I offered my opinion on the use of 5W20 in the 2000 V6, After revueing the specs.I feel this oil may have a high additive content and may be to thin for older engines. It may perform well in newer engines because of closer tolerances. But I won't use it when my warranty is up.

armtdm

Change all drive belts when the timing belt is done, it saves labor costs normally and seriously consider the water pump as well. If the pump goes later it will probably detroy the new timing belt and they just have to remove all the belts to replace it anyway so a labor cost savings by doing it with the timing belt. Check to see if any seals are leaking as these can be replaced at the same time as replacing the belts thus saving labor.

bburton3

Check to see if the 98 had a recall/problem on the countershaft seals-the time for freebie replacement has expired-but if this also applies to the 98 as it did to the 97's, it is just a piece of metal to reinforce the seal so that it does not blow out-no engine oil can ruin your whole day.

pengzhang

I have a 91 Accord SE. 160000 miles. Found driver side CV boot leak last October and was told can keep it until hear clicking. I heard clicking when make left turn about a month ago. So I took the car to a shop. I was told the passenger side CV boot (upper one) start leaking too. Because of the cost, I only changed driver side half shat.

A week after, front pads make noise. So I go to another shop ( same name but different branch). They said passenger side joint making noise and gave me a good price ($170) on half shaft. So I have it replaced. However, on my way back home, I found when accelerate to 20 - 30 mph, the car shake/vibrate. Above 30 mph getting better. I took the car back and have it checked and was told that the front and rear motor mounts are bad (I don't know if this is caused by them or not). It costs about $800 to fix the problem. That's a lot of money for this old car.

Any body has experience on this issue. I need your advise.

swschrad

but my gut reaction is that the half shaft they just put in was not properly rebuilt, and should be replaced under warranty by the supplier. you might have to pay the labor again, depends on the shop policy, but the places I go to would either waive it or provide a discount down to the tech's actual time (psst, don't tell anybody) instead of the book rate, and the shop would eat the overhead.

ms350

Hi, not sure if I'm in the right topic asking this question, but anyway. I had the oil changed (at the dealer) on my 02 Accent with 9000 miles on Saturday. They overfilled it by 1 inch over the full line. I heard that this could damage the engine so I took it back today and it's now still overfull by 3/4 inch. I'm taking it back again anyway, but is this still too much, can it really do serious engine damage in a short or long time? Thanks!

mikeysoft

The 03 Honda Accords have a smaller (diameter) oil filter then earlier models.
The earlier models had an 80 mm diameter; the new models come with a 65 mm diameter oil filter. Honda states the larger filter can be used to replace the newer smaller filter. See http://www.handa-accessories.com/accmaint03.html then click on "Click Here" under the note for more information.
 
My questions are:
1. If both filter are interchangeable, why would anyone us the smaller and higher priced newer filter?
2. Why did Honda start using a smaller filter?
3. What are the advantages of using one size over the other; maybe there is something different in additional to size?
4. Does the smaller size has anything to do with the 5w20 oil recommended?
 
Anyone have an opinion on this?

brake4me

I have 32,000 miles on my Dakota Quad, with 4.7 engine.

My dealer wants to charge me $450 for a 30,000 service tune-up which is think is a rip-off.

I can see having a oil change/filter, transmission change/filter, coolant changed and air filter.

Does anyone recommend any other service changes at 30,000 miles.

Should I have the rear axle and front axle (4x4) fluid changed. I don't use the 4 wheel drive that often?

Also is it fairly easy to change the antifreeze coolant on the Dakota and can I pick up an air filter at PEP Boys.

I just hate paying $450 for someone to check fluid levels, inspect fitting and belts, etc.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Brake4me

zueslewis

the only reason I'd change your differential and transfer case fluids is if the truck had been off-road a bunch and you thought the fluid might be contaminated with water and/or gunk.

Other than the transmission service, the oil change and filters are all I'd do, unless your manual specifically states something else.

You can do the transmission service if you don't mind a mess...

brake4me

Is it fairly simple to flush the radiator of old coolant and replace with Prestone? I assume there is a drain valve at the bottom of the radiator.

Also, how easy is it to replace the air filter? Can I go to a auto parts store and pick up an air filter at the part counter? Not sure what has to be done to remove old filter?

I miss the days of just taking off the fly nut, pan top and inserting the air filter.

Practically all driving is down on road so thanks for the info on axle fluid. I'll hold off until 60,000 miles before changing.

Brake4me

adw2

I have a 2000 Honda accord with 60,000 miles on it. Last week it started to make a humming noise from somewhere under the trunk while in reverse. Does anyone know what this could be?

zueslewis

my Chrysler product (I note you own a Dodge) has clips that hold the box shut. Just open the airbox to get to the filter and make sure it's secured well when you're done.

Check your manual on the coolant. Mine's good for 100K miles, maybe yours is, too.

mitchflorida

are the brakes making the noise? they get louder when they wear out

winbro

not having a moonroof before, is there any special care I need to do to keep the seals in good shape? I don't think there was much in the owners manual about moonroof care. I am also concerned about harsh winter elements like a foot of snow on the roof and it's effects on the moonroof.

thanks

alcan

Lubricate the seals with dilectric silicone grease.

swschrad

dielectric grease is just too darned plum wonderful to leave for the boots of the plug wires. just some of the things automakers recommend it for are

ignition boot insulation (duh)

heatsink grease on ignition parts

pea-sized gob in the speedo head to lubricate speedo whenever cable is removed (ford)

alternate grease for seat tracks

alternate grease for brake caliper rails

bulb grease to prevent corrosion on sockets and bases

connector waterproofing on all plug/socket connections

as mentioned, weatherstrip maintenance

... and I find I have not had any corrosion tracking up wires after making splices if I shoot the crimp connector full of dielectric grease, then insert the wire and crimp. I have stopped repeated rot-out of bulb sockets by shooting the socket full of the stuff to prevent water intrusion, and routinely shine the contacts of fuses and battery terminals with it. it stays put and doesn't melt out like the oft-recommended vaseline (petroleum jelly) does.

tar-based materials (No-Ox-Id brand) have been NFPA and code required for decades whenever aluminum wire is terminated, and it is required for all 48 volt telephone central office power wiring.

> there is no way in hell I would ever recommend anybody sub dielectric grease for a required safety oxide blocker, make no mistake. you NEVER sub a designated safety or life safety component with anything else! <

but dielectric grease has never failed me in automotive services, and is a darned sight easier to work with.

just don't rub your eyes with any on your hands, it's a serious irritant.

bburton3

Have a couple of small squeeze thingies-would like to buy a squeeze tube-hate napa prices-any other suggestion.

according2me

Just replaced my original platinum plugs this morning @102K miles and the engine seems to like these NGK copper replacements.

BTW, the gap on the old platinum plugs was still within the 1-1.1mm tolerances. Those plats are really tough.

Hopefully the next 30K will take a year or so:)

according2me

I got my last tube at Autozone. It's a small tube, but for tuneups only, it will last forever.

swschrad

the usual tube is something like 1 or 2 ounces... a 4 ounce tube is availiable, but it's quite pricey. if you aren't doing a tuneup or more a week, that tube is going to be with you a while. you generally don't need much of the miracle goo in any application.

inkie

Swschrad,
        Add this to your list. Lubing bushings on the steering rack. I was using Dow 111 grease which is a lot more expensive. The dielectric grease is pretty close in specs. and its less expensive and readily available.

swschrad

or that it's wonderful for the pivot bearing and shaft contact areas when you reassemble tuning capacitors on 1924 Atwater Kent radios? it makes a real fine substitute for heatsink grease when you put FrankenClone computers together and need to heatsink the CPU chip if you run out. (applications requiring "arctic silver" are a different matter...)

maybe I should get a 4-ounce tube

I don't think I'd substitute it for red glyptal varnish in the 40,000 volt cage on old tube color-TV refabs, though. red glypt doesn't run when it gets hot. this stuff would.