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Comments
Thanks in advance.
While I realize that there could be some tiny gain, please point me to an official Honda link that confirms, as you wrote, "Honda themselves state that the Accord will get up to a 10HP boost if you use premium fuel".
I was merely trying to clarify the post #1450 quote "Honda themselves state...." since I am unsure that it is a fact.
"The Accord V-6 ratings assume regular-grade fuel, and Honda will market it as a regular-fuel engine. But — pssst — it's good for another 10 hp and 10-plus lbs.-ft. on premium, acknowledges V-6 engineer Asaki."
"....please point me to an official Honda link that confirms, as you wrote, "Honda themselves state that the Accord will get up to a 10HP boost if you use premium fuel".
That one's just a pssst.
Any way he said the car is marketed as a regular fuel burning vehicle. So it is rated at 240 hp. It would turn off many potential buyers if they rated it at 250 hp but required premium to do so. 240 is plenty anyway. Heck the 160 hp I get out of 4 banger is plenty. If it made 170hp with premium fuel, I still would fill it with regular since that was the performance I was expecting when I bought the car.
I noticed that I can move the glass by hand a little, glass itself does not seam to be in the fix position. Also, I took the car to the dealer and complain about window vibrating and making annoying noise, dealer replaced seal gasket around the window and told me that will take care of the problem.
It did not help at all.
any idea?
thanks
I had my windows tinted 9 days ago, back window about 2 inches strip
from the top has significant number of bubbles (some with fluid some
not), this is the are where glass has "dots" Also, from outside close distance it looks kinda gray instead of limo. What is annoying whole top section of the window is not consistent - different shades or so.
Any tint advice? should I give it more time or have it re-tinted.
thanks again :confuse:
Perhaps that's why none of the automobile manufactureers sell any of their vehicles with any more than the basic tint that all vehicles come with.
:shades:
I had 3 cars tinted at the same time and only back window in accord looks bad,
reason for the post was to figure out if anyone had problems with tint over doted matrix of the back window. Should I have them re-do it and risk damaging defroster and antenna?
Mrbill
I've had absolutely no concerns with braking with my 2004 EX V6 Coupe. In fact This is one of the smoothest driving vehicles that I've possesed since my first car in 1964. Get one, you'll love it.
Maybe you should give godofwine01 little more info, you can do better than that. Since you drove so many cars compeer them to your honda. He wants some opinion not sellsman line. :P
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When i wanted to tint my back window they told me the same thing.. but i found a place that would do it and what they did was this..
you know how the dots are thick on the top part of the window?? well they started the tint right under the thick top part.. so the dots blend into the tint.. a lot of places want to charge more or tell u they cant to it.. but mine was done well and looks good.. hope this helps
Any advice would be appreciated!!!
Mrbill
I got an accord coupe (4cyl) 2003 for $16.7. It's silver and it has the lip version spoiler and a front down one in addition to an ex trim. It has only 11k miles on it and it drives and feels like new. My question is, do you think it's a good buy! Also I need some ideas since I wanna add fogligts and window visors. Thanks.
Personally, I would have coughed up the extra $3K for a brand new '05.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
If you're happy with your decision, that's all that matters.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
That changes it a bit.
Like I said, if yer happy, that's what matters. So, frankly, you shouldn't even ask if you got a good deal, because a good deal is in the eye of the buyer, ya know? So just enjoy it!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks I'm enjoying the car and please don't get offended.
Is it that simple? How do you replace just the regulator arms and not the motor?
I am not a real car know it all...so if anyone knows and has some basics- that would help a lot.
You might also want to stop by the Stop here! Let's talk about brakes discussion to see if the folks there have any ideas for you.
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Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
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Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Tell everyone about your buying experience: Write a Dealer Review
As far as my statement ... well, its certainly an opinion. And I base that opinion on the same statement you made: "...which you can measure or correlate to the condition of the car." Therein lies the rub. What one person thinks is excellent condition, another might think is poor. It brings to mind another cliche, "one man's trash is another's treasure."
Not to mention the fact that, if you use ANY book value, trade-in value, what have you, the "deal" is only as good as the buyer thinks. If, in your case, you use KBB and you get $1K below, you may think that's a good deal, and you'd be happy. The next guy comes along and won't settle for anything less than $2K below KBB in order to think he got a good deal. OR, someone could use NADA or Galves books, which are typically different from KBB, and then their "$1K below book" is a whole different deal than your "$1K below book." See what I mean?
Anyway, I'm way off the accord topic, so I'll drop it. Nope, no offense taken here. Glad you're enjoying it. See ya.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I read some problems with tranny's and brakes so any warning signs?
What other things should I really check for as far as being right.
Also when I test drove one maybe it's something with Honda but when driving it and letting off the accelerator and coasting the car seems to be almost braking and downshifting where I could feel it. Is this normal? The salesman said yes but hey sometimes they always say yes.
I just bought a 2005 Honda Accord Coupe LX SE V6. The car has an alarm but the dealer is telling me that it only works when a door, the trunk, or the hood is opened. He trying to sell me an upgrade to an alarm that will sound if a window is broken or if any motion is detected. On my last car, the factory alarm covered all of the above. I cant figure out why Honda would only equip a car with 1/2 of an alarm system. Can anyone help me figure this one out???
PS
They want 400 for the alarm, down from 800, which also makes me wonder.
An alarm sytem that is triggered if someone breaks a window won't stop someone from still reaching into the car, grabbing what they can, and run off. If your trying to stop that from happening, then hide your valuebles. Any major break-ins would be thru the opening of the trunk, hood, or door which will trigger the alarm.
I can't tell you how many times I've heard this same song and dance about ANY car with a stick. Its "rare" when they want to sell it, but its "a tough sell" when they want to buy it.
Hope you still enjoy it enough to keep it. Its a nice car.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I think the bumper insert if VERY important. Also on the Pilot, a rock found its way right through that opening and punched a small hole in the air conditioning condensor. I believe that was about $280 for a new one (not including labor). So I quickly invested in a mesh bumper hole insert (again, Ebay, I believe about $50).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Another Question:
I bought the car used (10k miles) and it has 7yrs/75k miles warranty on it. I was wondering if I'd be able to transfer it under my name; eventhough, the seller said the warranty goes with the car, which means transferable. I didn't check with the dealer yet and waiting for the title to arrive. Please let me know if you know about this. Thanks.