There is only one day left in the year but I wanted to post this in the hopes that it can help somebody. I have saved a lot of money with the help of Edmunds forums and hope it saves someone else.
I just picked up a 2015 CR-V EX 2WD with a MSRP of $26,300 for a selling price of $23,250. This is in Southern California area and the dealers I had the best experience dealing with were from Metro in Montclair, Riverside, Buena Park, Carson, DCH Gardena, and Corona. Would not recommend wasting your time with Honda World Downey or Westminster. They don't answer internet requests and their salesmen were extremely rude and unwilling to negotiate when called.
Can you tell me which dealer gave you the $23,250? In case you can't disclose the name or city, I have messaged you also. Thanks for any help you can provide.
@thanhca How to PM you? Right now a dealer in Northern Cal is offering me $23792+TTL for a 2015 CRV EX FWD. I intend to buy at the end of December. What do you think of the offer i got so far?
Thanks Jerry
Bought the CRV this weekend for $23792+TTL including wheel locks and splash guards.
@ Jerry2k2- Can you tell me which city was the dealer that gave you the $23,792?
I just picked up a Honda CRV 2015 EX AWD yesterday and wanted to share my experience. Here's the breakdown of my car:
$24073.23 - Price of the vehicle $80 - Doc fee $2053.02 - Sales Tax (6%) $26 - License Fee $267.7 - Title Fee (Plate Transfer) --------------- $26500.00 - Total
I'm pretty satisfied with my purchase since I initially was looking at a EX 2WD for this price and I definitely recommend you guys head out and take advantage of the year end deals! Best of luck!
Is this real? $3500 off from MSRP? I am also looking for EX AWD but no luck so far. does trade in invlove? And what dealer was this?
Definitely for real. I'm in NorCal. The Sacramento area. I didn't trade anything in. I got an internet quote, walked in, test drove, and negotiated with them. They really wanted to do the deal because it was the end of the year.
Did the dealer tell you what kind of incentives/cashback/offers were applied for getting the price of 24,073 on 2015 CRV AWD EX? Did you pay cash or financed?
MSRP is the list price on the sticker. Most car buyers try to beat the list price and that's usually easy to do unless the car is in high demand.
Invoice is supposedly what the dealer pays for a car. But invoice isn't a "real" number - there's holdback, bonuses, quota money and other incentives and spiffs we never hear about. All those payments from the manufacturer to the dealer is what makes it possible to buy some cars below invoice. Like yours.
TMV for a Seatle zip code (I used my BILs zip in Wallingford) is $24,872. That includes destination of $880 and is about halfway between MSRP and invoice. Invoice including destination is $23,955, so your quote is coming in $500 below invoice.
So far so good!
Can you do better? Maybe, but I'm surprised that the quotes are this good so early in the new model year.
Did you get other quotes? Have you been negotiating hard?
Thanks @stever, I got a quote from one dealer first, then ask another deal to beat it, then I got this one. I also checked some comments on a Chinese BBS, they said the OTD could be $22k for basic model, if so, my price is too bad. I am also considering a Forester with AWD, the OTD could be less than $25k. they also said CR-V AWD is false, not a real one, especially compare to Forester, what's your opinions?
I think Subaru has the "best" reputation for AWD in the passenger car market. Mine worked good on my old '97 Outback that I just sold, before moving from snow country to New Mexico. But I have nothing recent to compare it to, just FWD minivans.
For Seattle, unless you are heading into the mountains a lot, you probably don't need AWD at all. It could be a bit handy in the damp, but good tires are the most important thing (and the driver).
I'm a bit more partial to the Honda than the Subaru, although I've never owned one. My wife doesn't much care for either brand. So buy what you like and don't stress out too much about whether the AWD is "false" or full time or part time or, in Honda's parlance, "real time". Much of that talk is just marketing anyway.
Good luck and let us know how the "grinding" goes.
Thanks @stever, talked to one Honda dealer, which even doesn't have 2WD cars, and said everybody wants AWD, my choice between CR-V 2WD and Forester AWD actually. beside researching on internet, also observing cars on loads, many AWDs, 4WDs and many 2WDs. I may occasionally go around Seattle but certainly it's not often.
Well, a dealer with none in stock would naturally say that, lol.
Resale is typically better on the AWDs, except down in some of the southern parts of the US. The mileage hit isn't too bad either. If that's all in stock, you may not have much choice anyway.
Anyone know how much the Honda Remote Engine Starter should cost? getting range from 500 to 800+. Also, I noticed some of the dealers in Maryland are charging different prices for tags. Anyone know how much it should be in Maryland?
Finding it difficult to find a CRV Touring AWD in Modern Steel around here for a decent price. Any help would be appreciated.
So my saga is a little complicated but I think I made out quite well. I went to a local dealer on 12/29 and did initial discussions about purchasing a 2015 EX 2WD. They only had a white with beige interior. I strictly wanted black interior. They told they would have to bring one in from a sister dealer in AL or TN. They hinted a copper sunset metallic color that looked nice online. on 12/31 I told them another dealer offered the car to me for $23,250, which in reality was $23,750. They said they could beat the deal and I went in to purchase one from them. Signed the papers on the sunset copper, which was located in TN. Car was to be delivered Saturday. I ended up getting a call Saturday saying that while I legally purchased the car on 12/31 the car was sold on 1/1 by the dealer who had it in TN. That made my dealer scramble to locate another sunset copper CR-V, which as many of you know is really hard to find. They offered a silver one (my first choice color in the beginning of this) but I held them to the orange one to make them sweat and potentially get more freebies. After reviewing the contract on the first one, they charged me for a stupid appearance package for $694.00 which was accessories that only totaled like $254 (wheel locks, splash guards, rear rubber mat, etc.) and I remember seeing Nitrogen for tires for $199!!! So anyways I said in ordered to get the silver one I didn't want the appearance package applied except for wheel locks and I wanted the hood deflector installed (my 2012 was certified and the previous owner had a big rock chip on the leading edge of the hood that bothered me from day one and I suspected it was starting to rust as I was living in Seattle at the time). I also purchased the Honda Care thing because the roof on my certified CR-V with less than 30K miles as of today leaked 3 times and I was forced to go to mediation with Honda and got a cash settlement (whole other ordeal) for $1,600 for 6 years/120,000 miles and $0 deductible. I suppose I need piece of mind after what I have been through. Anyways sorry for the novel but I figured someone could use some of the information above. Below is the summary of the deal. Remember my original contract is 12/31 and even though I signed it last night it still shows as a end of year sale. I won't be getting my new one until 1/8.
Sale Price: $22,551 + $246 (Wheel locks and Hood Deflector) _______________________________ $22,797 plus $699 doc fee and TAVT for GA of $508.44
I had Honda Care added for $1,600 and I ended up getting at 1.94% interest rate from HFS and I also used the whole college grad thing as well which had a $500 discount.
So I hope I didn't get screwed but I tried my best. It was a blessing I didn't get the sunset copper as I wouldn't have been able to get out of the appearance package rip off otherwise. The dealer offered "one free oil change" as courtesy - rolls eyes.
So my saga is a little complicated but I think I made out quite well. I went to a local dealer on 12/29 and did initial discussions about purchasing a 2015 EX 2WD. They only had a white with beige interior. I strictly wanted black interior. They told they would have to bring one in from a sister dealer in AL or TN. They hinted a copper sunset metallic color that looked nice online. on 12/31 I told them another dealer offered the car to me for $23,250, which in reality was $23,750. They said they could beat the deal and I went in to purchase one from them. Signed the papers on the sunset copper, which was located in TN. Car was to be delivered Saturday. I ended up getting a call Saturday saying that while I legally purchased the car on 12/31 the car was sold on 1/1 by the dealer who had it in TN. That made my dealer scramble to locate another sunset copper CR-V, which as many of you know is really hard to find. They offered a silver one (my first choice color in the beginning of this) but I held them to the orange one to make them sweat and potentially get more freebies. After reviewing the contract on the first one, they charged me for a stupid appearance package for $694.00 which was accessories that only totaled like $254 (wheel locks, splash guards, rear rubber mat, etc.) and I remember seeing Nitrogen for tires for $199!!! So anyways I said in ordered to get the silver one I didn't want the appearance package applied except for wheel locks and I wanted the hood deflector installed (my 2012 was certified and the previous owner had a big rock chip on the leading edge of the hood that bothered me from day one and I suspected it was starting to rust as I was living in Seattle at the time). I also purchased the Honda Care thing because the roof on my certified CR-V with less than 30K miles as of today leaked 3 times and I was forced to go to mediation with Honda and got a cash settlement (whole other ordeal) for $1,600 for 6 years/120,000 miles and $0 deductible. I suppose I need piece of mind after what I have been through. Anyways sorry for the novel but I figured someone could use some of the information above. Below is the summary of the deal. Remember my original contract is 12/31 and even though I signed it last night it still shows as a end of year sale. I won't be getting my new one until 1/8.
Sale Price: $22,551 + $246 (Wheel locks and Hood Deflector) _______________________________ $22,797 plus $699 doc fee and TAVT for GA of $508.44
I had Honda Care added for $1,600 and I ended up getting at 1.94% interest rate from HFS and I also used the whole college grad thing as well which had a $500 discount.
So I hope I didn't get screwed but I tried my best. It was a blessing I didn't get the sunset copper as I wouldn't have been able to get out of the appearance package rip off otherwise. The dealer offered "one free oil change" as courtesy - rolls eyes.
Anyways thanks for reading!
I am assuming you are in Atlanta. Can you share the dealership and sales agent name with me.
Auto Nation Thorton Road - Lithia Springs, GA. As far the sales guy - I dealt with like 5 different people. The first guy I started with I believe is John Butler, but I think he's new and I wouldn't bother as you can't understand him much. Andre Dallas was the guy that pretty much "closed the deal". The manager I dealt with is Jon King plus another guy behind the sales desk. My one tidbit of advice is do not accept the appearance package - it's $694, it's better just buying the accessories yourself. Plus they charge $199 for nitro in the tires. They initially told me all the CR-V's come off the truck that way, but I was able to intervene and stop them from adding it to mine. I only see the need for wheel locks. I think the package includes like one year tire protection but do yourself a favor and go to Discount tire and get better coverage for 3 years for $60. They have like no inventory of 15's so more than likely they will bring one in and don't agree to paying a fee for that as they didn't try to pull that on me.
Auto Nation Thorton Road - Lithia Springs, GA. As far the sales guy - I dealt with like 5 different people. The first guy I started with I believe is John Butler, but I think he's new and I wouldn't bother as you can't understand him much. Andre Dallas was the guy that pretty much "closed the deal". The manager I dealt with is Jon King plus another guy behind the sales desk. My one tidbit of advice is do not accept the appearance package - it's $694, it's better just buying the accessories yourself. Plus they charge $199 for nitro in the tires. They initially told me all the CR-V's come off the truck that way, but I was able to intervene and stop them from adding it to mine. I only see the need for wheel locks. I think the package includes like one year tire protection but do yourself a favor and go to Discount tire and get better coverage for 3 years for $60. They have like no inventory of 15's so more than likely they will bring one in and don't agree to paying a fee for that as they didn't try to pull that on me.
Thank you for your advice. I will contact them and make sure none of the useless items are added.
I was searching for a 2 car buy before the year ended but was unable to get it done with the holiday and family stuff. Here is some pricing from Chicago area dealers on the 2015 Honda CR-V EX AWD and EX-L AWD. I'm was still in the market but I haven't been able to get my car appraised yet other than at 1 dealer that offered about 2500 less than Edmunds trade-in value so NO DEAL happened by 12/31/15 as I'd hoped.
Here are the Pre-tax tag title Prices for several dealers that quoted me via email and or phone last week leading up to Year End. Some may be N/A now that 12/31 has passed and some holiday year end cash was available from what I was told ($500.00). I refuse to "go in" to meet as that is a waste of time. When a find a motivated dealer that will offer a fair price and will discuss a reasonable trade allowance then I will make the trip.
2015 Honda CR-V EX AWD
Fletcher Jones 25,121 Lisle 25,278 Bill Kay 24,978 Valley 25,378
EX-L AWD Lisle $27,660 Fletcher Jones $27,554
Follow-up: Bought the 2015 CR-V EX AWD Black yesterday from Valley Honda. They were absolutely great and worked to get to the trade number I needed for the '12 Accord I was trading. I brought the Edmunds, KBB and Autotrader trade estimates and they agreed to basically accept what worked out to be an average of the 3 which was still a wholesale number but I didn't leave them much room on the top line and very little incentives applying right now to the 2015 CR-V since they are still in pretty high demand.
I really liked the EX-L but didn't think that the leather would be practical when I loan the car to my teenagers as they are way too rough on assets that they haven't paid for (everything so far).
Your base price is around $500 below invoice (I ignored the wheel locks - consider them a freebie).
Sounds like a good price, especially for one specially ordered. Did the dealer try to find one in your area that met your color choice or did you just want the newest off the line you could get?
We need to buy a car, as of right now we're renting. We are in Northern Virginia. We're looking for a 2015 Honda CR-V Touring AWD in VA, DC, and MD. We've emailed most of the dealers for prices. Most dealers only have one, or none, and don't seem to be getting many in. The dealers don't seem willing to discount the car much. We've driven the car and done Edmunds and TrueCar pricing. We want the Blue color and only this dealer has the price. It is very hard to find this color. Most dealers who even have a Touring AWD have the colors of black, silver, or white. The prices below DO NOT HAVE the destination fee in the amount. We think we did all the prices correctly.
The best price we have is from a dealer in our area that's the only one that has the color we want. The quote is $31,201 for just the car. That doesn't include destination fee, taxes, processing fees, or licensing. The car doesn't have an appearance package add ons like other dealers have added (wheel locks, mud guards, etc).
The invoice price for the car is $30,751 without destination fee in the price. The Edmunds TMV price is $31,944 without the destination fee in the price. The TrueCar price keeps changing almost every other day.
Our issue with the car is it has 195 miles on it. Most of that came from them moving the car from a dealer in Maryland to the one we're talking with in VA. Is that a lot of miles for a new car? It seems like it to us.
We've been shopping around for a few months and this is the best we've been able to do in terms of price. Should we keep shopping or should we buy this car, even with 195 miles on it? Thanks for any advice. We would like to possible get this car by the weekend. We are open to ideas. All info is appreciated in advance.
Update on our car price for the blue 2015 Honda CRV Touring AWD...dealer called and they dropped the price to $31,110. The price does not include the Destination fee. Now I am nervous thinking 195 miles is bad? I also just looked on Edmunds and other websites and I swear the MSRP and the prices just went up....Honda might now know Tourings are in great demand? Can Honda raise the MSRP at anytime? It was $33,650 and now it is $33,775. So confused...help is needed. We might go Friday to check out the car and do another test drive. The dealer will not give any more discounts or throw in cargo covers or mats etc. I feel they should.
We need to buy a car, as of right now we're renting. We are in Northern Virginia. We're looking for a 2015 Honda CR-V Touring AWD in VA, DC, and MD. We've emailed most of the dealers for prices. Most dealers only have one, or none, and don't seem to be getting many in. The dealers don't seem willing to discount the car much. We've driven the car and done Edmunds and TrueCar pricing. We want the Blue color and only this dealer has the price. It is very hard to find this color. Most dealers who even have a Touring AWD have the colors of black, silver, or white. The prices below DO NOT HAVE the destination fee in the amount. We think we did all the prices correctly.
The best price we have is from a dealer in our area that's the only one that has the color we want. The quote is $31,201 for just the car. That doesn't include destination fee, taxes, processing fees, or licensing. The car doesn't have an appearance package add ons like other dealers have added (wheel locks, mud guards, etc).
The invoice price for the car is $30,751 without destination fee in the price. The Edmunds TMV price is $31,944 without the destination fee in the price. The TrueCar price keeps changing almost every other day.
Our issue with the car is it has 195 miles on it. Most of that came from them moving the car from a dealer in Maryland to the one we're talking with in VA. Is that a lot of miles for a new car? It seems like it to us.
We've been shopping around for a few months and this is the best we've been able to do in terms of price. Should we keep shopping or should we buy this car, even with 195 miles on it? Thanks for any advice. We would like to possible get this car by the weekend. We are open to ideas. All info is appreciated in advance.
I'm seeing a TMV price of $32,576 for an AWD Touring, using a zip code over near Winchester (my sister lives over that way). That price includes the destination of $880. My guess is that TMV is a bit lower the closer to the District or the more populated areas you get.
So your most recent quote is still about $600 below our TMV. That's good.
Manufacturers can raise the invoice and MSRP numbers. Guess they'd have to redo the Monroney labels in that case, which is one reason why you don't see it happen too often. And yeah, demand for the Touring has been greater than the supply. I haven't looked at inventory for a while but maybe that's increasing.
195 miles is nothing to worry about (so long as it's disclosed to you beforehand - that's another long story we'll skip. )
It's a pain "throwing money away" on a rental, but try to relax. There's another CR-V on another lot somewhere (or in transit) you'll be able to snag. The CR-V is the third best selling car in the US right now (the top two are pickups) and Honda and their dealers are making a killing selling them like hotcakes. The smart dealers will try to win you over now so they can move on to the next buyer. The rest will lollygag around until the end of the month and then they'll start dealing when they realize they are short of quota. Or so my theory goes, lol.
One thing you can do at this point is to take your quote, include the destination and any other fees that you are aware of, and add in the taxes. Use that as your upper limit and then go back to the dealer and ask them what's the lowest "out the door" price they can give you. Then counter a bit lower and see if you can work a deal.
In reposne to the question from Stever (thank you for your comments) -- we did ask the dealer to locate a vehicle but the ones we want were already pre-sold. I found one but the sales manager's wife was apprently using it as a demo - they expected 1500 miles on it and would give little less than $200 for it.
On a related issue, does anyone know if it is possible for Honda to give a finance offer on a 2015 vehicle that is only on offer for a 2014? Would they consider it if it was requested from a high volume dealer?
nagpaw--I literally got off the phone with a dealer in VA and asked them that. We want the 0.9% financing on the 2015 Touring because they offer it on 2014 CRVs. He said no.
Stever--Thanks for your quick and detailed response. Do you think I should wait till the end of the month? I dont think the blue Touring will last that long.
So my zip is for Alexandria VA 22308. But we would get the Touring in Chantilly, VA (out near Dulles Airport IAD) Their zip is 20151.
k I feel like I may be getting super ripped off but I suck at negotiating for cars.anyway. I have a kia sportage lease ending this coming March.so I have $1080 left in payments plus the$400 disposition fee. I'm interested in leasing 2015 crv ex awd because of mileage. Would prefer the touring but sounds like a lot. So I went in for drive and quote.They said $1930 down to cover fees etc etc and they cover the $1080 I have left which I'm assuming that means throw some of it into the monthly but doesn't that mean I still gotta pay kia? Lol. Anyway 360 for 36/12k I'm in northern nj. I'm paying 360 monthly for the kia so I was looking to not pay more than that
I'm really bad with figuring out if the "total prices" are good deals. I usually care for the monthly prices. Is it realistic to think I can pay $360 or somehing like that a month with only $2k down for a 5 year finance instead? We put very little miles on my wife's leases. the Kia only has 14k in 3 years
So my saga is a little complicated but I think I made out quite well. I went to a local dealer on 12/29 and did initial discussions about purchasing a 2015 EX 2WD. They only had a white with beige interior. I strictly wanted black interior. They told they would have to bring one in from a sister dealer in AL or TN. They hinted a copper sunset metallic color that looked nice online. on 12/31 I told them another dealer offered the car to me for $23,250, which in reality was $23,750. They said they could beat the deal and I went in to purchase one from them. Signed the papers on the sunset copper, which was located in TN. Car was to be delivered Saturday. I ended up getting a call Saturday saying that while I legally purchased the car on 12/31 the car was sold on 1/1 by the dealer who had it in TN. That made my dealer scramble to locate another sunset copper CR-V, which as many of you know is really hard to find. They offered a silver one (my first choice color in the beginning of this) but I held them to the orange one to make them sweat and potentially get more freebies. After reviewing the contract on the first one, they charged me for a stupid appearance package for $694.00 which was accessories that only totaled like $254 (wheel locks, splash guards, rear rubber mat, etc.) and I remember seeing Nitrogen for tires for $199!!! So anyways I said in ordered to get the silver one I didn't want the appearance package applied except for wheel locks and I wanted the hood deflector installed (my 2012 was certified and the previous owner had a big rock chip on the leading edge of the hood that bothered me from day one and I suspected it was starting to rust as I was living in Seattle at the time). I also purchased the Honda Care thing because the roof on my certified CR-V with less than 30K miles as of today leaked 3 times and I was forced to go to mediation with Honda and got a cash settlement (whole other ordeal) for $1,600 for 6 years/120,000 miles and $0 deductible. I suppose I need piece of mind after what I have been through. Anyways sorry for the novel but I figured someone could use some of the information above. Below is the summary of the deal. Remember my original contract is 12/31 and even though I signed it last night it still shows as a end of year sale. I won't be getting my new one until 1/8.
Sale Price: $22,551 + $246 (Wheel locks and Hood Deflector) _______________________________ $22,797 plus $699 doc fee and TAVT for GA of $508.44
I had Honda Care added for $1,600 and I ended up getting at 1.94% interest rate from HFS and I also used the whole college grad thing as well which had a $500 discount.
So I hope I didn't get screwed but I tried my best. It was a blessing I didn't get the sunset copper as I wouldn't have been able to get out of the appearance package rip off otherwise. The dealer offered "one free oil change" as courtesy - rolls eyes.
Anyways thanks for reading!
I am assuming you are in Atlanta. Can you share the dealership and sales agent name with me.
I am looking for 2015 CRV EX 2WD...looks like you got it in less than $24k...could you please share the break down and total cost out the door.
k I feel like I may be getting super ripped off but I suck at negotiating for cars.anyway. I have a kia sportage lease ending this coming March.so I have $1080 left in payments plus the$400 disposition fee. I'm interested in leasing 2015 crv ex awd because of mileage. Would prefer the touring but sounds like a lot. So I went in for drive and quote.They said $1930 down to cover fees etc etc and they cover the $1080 I have left which I'm assuming that means throw some of it into the monthly but doesn't that mean I still gotta pay kia? Lol. Anyway 360 for 36/12k I'm in northern nj. I'm paying 360 monthly for the kia so I was looking to not pay more than that
I'm really bad with figuring out if the "total prices" are good deals. I usually care for the monthly prices. Is it realistic to think I can pay $360 or somehing like that a month with only $2k down for a 5 year finance instead? We put very little miles on my wife's leases. the Kia only has 14k in 3 years
This is an error - you should care about the base price and total OTD - you will be financing the amount based on that figure. Someone can sell you a car for far more money than its worth by manipulating the interest rate, period or base trim levels !
For your monthly rate to be lower, you need to ensure that the intrest on which your installment is calculated and the interest is as low as possible - this is the only way to ensure you get the most car per dollar.
k I feel like I may be getting super ripped off but I suck at negotiating for cars.anyway. I have a kia sportage lease ending this coming March.so I have $1080 left in payments plus the$400 disposition fee. I'm interested in leasing 2015 crv ex awd because of mileage. Would prefer the touring but sounds like a lot. So I went in for drive and quote.They said $1930 down to cover fees etc etc and they cover the $1080 I have left which I'm assuming that means throw some of it into the monthly but doesn't that mean I still gotta pay kia? Lol. Anyway 360 for 36/12k I'm in northern nj. I'm paying 360 monthly for the kia so I was looking to not pay more than that
I'm really bad with figuring out if the "total prices" are good deals. I usually care for the monthly prices. Is it realistic to think I can pay $360 or somehing like that a month with only $2k down for a 5 year finance instead? We put very little miles on my wife's leases. the Kia only has 14k in 3 years
This is an error - you should care about the base price and total OTD - you will be financing the amount based on that figure. Someone can sell you a car for far more money than its worth by manipulating the interest rate, period or base trim levels !
For your monthly rate to be lower, you need to ensure that the intrest on which your installment is calculated and the interest is as low as possible - this is the only way to ensure you get the most car per dollar.
Total OTD meaning? like ok hey im leasing this car, after all the numbers, how much am i paying after lease +residual? they told me residual was $17,900, something like that
k I feel like I may be getting super ripped off but I suck at negotiating for cars.anyway. I have a kia sportage lease ending this coming March.so I have $1080 left in payments plus the$400 disposition fee. I'm interested in leasing 2015 crv ex awd because of mileage. Would prefer the touring but sounds like a lot. So I went in for drive and quote.They said $1930 down to cover fees etc etc and they cover the $1080 I have left which I'm assuming that means throw some of it into the monthly but doesn't that mean I still gotta pay kia? Lol. Anyway 360 for 36/12k I'm in northern nj. I'm paying 360 monthly for the kia so I was looking to not pay more than that
I'm really bad with figuring out if the "total prices" are good deals. I usually care for the monthly prices. Is it realistic to think I can pay $360 or somehing like that a month with only $2k down for a 5 year finance instead? We put very little miles on my wife's leases. the Kia only has 14k in 3 years
This is an error - you should care about the base price and total OTD - you will be financing the amount based on that figure. Someone can sell you a car for far more money than its worth by manipulating the interest rate, period or base trim levels !
For your monthly rate to be lower, you need to ensure that the intrest on which your installment is calculated and the interest is as low as possible - this is the only way to ensure you get the most car per dollar.
Total OTD meaning? like ok hey im leasing this car, after all the numbers, how much am i paying after lease +residual? they told me residual was $17,900, something like that
If you are leasing, there is a separate discussion for that for the CR-V. Negotiate your best selling price by using the information on this discussion, then head over to the other discussion and we can help you with information and strategies to get the best lease payment.
k I feel like I may be getting super ripped off but I suck at negotiating for cars.anyway. I have a kia sportage lease ending this coming March.so I have $1080 left in payments plus the$400 disposition fee. I'm interested in leasing 2015 crv ex awd because of mileage. Would prefer the touring but sounds like a lot. So I went in for drive and quote.They said $1930 down to cover fees etc etc and they cover the $1080 I have left which I'm assuming that means throw some of it into the monthly but doesn't that mean I still gotta pay kia? Lol. Anyway 360 for 36/12k I'm in northern nj. I'm paying 360 monthly for the kia so I was looking to not pay more than that
I'm really bad with figuring out if the "total prices" are good deals. I usually care for the monthly prices. Is it realistic to think I can pay $360 or somehing like that a month with only $2k down for a 5 year finance instead? We put very little miles on my wife's leases. the Kia only has 14k in 3 years
This is an error - you should care about the base price and total OTD - you will be financing the amount based on that figure. Someone can sell you a car for far more money than its worth by manipulating the interest rate, period or base trim levels !
For your monthly rate to be lower, you need to ensure that the intrest on which your installment is calculated and the interest is as low as possible - this is the only way to ensure you get the most car per dollar.
Total OTD meaning? like ok hey im leasing this car, after all the numbers, how much am i paying after lease +residual? they told me residual was $17,900, something like that
Total OTD = Total Out-the-Door. That is the final price for you as the customer including everything (tax / fees / tags etc.....everything!)
k I feel like I may be getting super ripped off but I suck at negotiating for cars.anyway. I have a kia sportage lease ending this coming March.so I have $1080 left in payments plus the$400 disposition fee. I'm interested in leasing 2015 crv ex awd because of mileage. Would prefer the touring but sounds like a lot. So I went in for drive and quote.They said $1930 down to cover fees etc etc and they cover the $1080 I have left which I'm assuming that means throw some of it into the monthly but doesn't that mean I still gotta pay kia? Lol. Anyway 360 for 36/12k I'm in northern nj. I'm paying 360 monthly for the kia so I was looking to not pay more than that
I'm really bad with figuring out if the "total prices" are good deals. I usually care for the monthly prices. Is it realistic to think I can pay $360 or somehing like that a month with only $2k down for a 5 year finance instead? We put very little miles on my wife's leases. the Kia only has 14k in 3 years
This is an error - you should care about the base price and total OTD - you will be financing the amount based on that figure. Someone can sell you a car for far more money than its worth by manipulating the interest rate, period or base trim levels !
For your monthly rate to be lower, you need to ensure that the intrest on which your installment is calculated and the interest is as low as possible - this is the only way to ensure you get the most car per dollar.
Total OTD meaning? like ok hey im leasing this car, after all the numbers, how much am i paying after lease +residual? they told me residual was $17,900, something like that
If you are leasing, there is a separate discussion for that for the CR-V. Negotiate your best selling price by using the information on this discussion, then head over to the other discussion and we can help you with information and strategies to get the best lease payment.
Yea i'm thinking maybe I should finance. My wife puts such low mileage on the car that financing may sound better because after 3 years, the car is still freakin brand new. With financing in NJ, whats the minimum to put down as far as all the fees are concerned? like $700ish? then after that watever else I want to put down I want to make sure 1st month's payment is in there? also with my excellent credit, make sure I get the 1.9%? and ask what is the TOTAL I'd be paying after 5 years? Including taxes? Like let's say its $25k, that means $25 including taxes and after 5 years I paid that much? or after 5 years I'm paying 25k plus taxes plus interest? Man I'm too slow as this for you guys. I ask for patience please
k I feel like I may be getting super ripped off but I suck at negotiating for cars.anyway. I have a kia sportage lease ending this coming March.so I have $1080 left in payments plus the$400 disposition fee. I'm interested in leasing 2015 crv ex awd because of mileage. Would prefer the touring but sounds like a lot. So I went in for drive and quote.They said $1930 down to cover fees etc etc and they cover the $1080 I have left which I'm assuming that means throw some of it into the monthly but doesn't that mean I still gotta pay kia? Lol. Anyway 360 for 36/12k I'm in northern nj. I'm paying 360 monthly for the kia so I was looking to not pay more than that
I'm really bad with figuring out if the "total prices" are good deals. I usually care for the monthly prices. Is it realistic to think I can pay $360 or somehing like that a month with only $2k down for a 5 year finance instead? We put very little miles on my wife's leases. the Kia only has 14k in 3 years
This is an error - you should care about the base price and total OTD - you will be financing the amount based on that figure. Someone can sell you a car for far more money than its worth by manipulating the interest rate, period or base trim levels !
For your monthly rate to be lower, you need to ensure that the intrest on which your installment is calculated and the interest is as low as possible - this is the only way to ensure you get the most car per dollar.
Total OTD meaning? like ok hey im leasing this car, after all the numbers, how much am i paying after lease +residual? they told me residual was $17,900, something like that
If you are leasing, there is a separate discussion for that for the CR-V. Negotiate your best selling price by using the information on this discussion, then head over to the other discussion and we can help you with information and strategies to get the best lease payment.
Yea i'm thinking maybe I hsould finance. My wife puts such low mileage on the car that financing may sound better because after 3 years, the car is still freakin brand new. with financing in NJ. whats the minume to put down as far as all the fees are conerend? like $700ish? then after that wateve relse I want to put down I want to make sure 1st month's payment is in there? also with my excellent credit, make sure I get the 1.9%? and ask what is the TOTAL I'd be paying after 5 years? Including taxes? Like let's say its $25k, that means $25 including taxes and after 5 years I paid that much? or after 5 years I'm paying 25k plus taxes plus intersest? Man i'm too slow as this for you guys. I ask for patience please
Please don't feel you are slow at this - we are all here to help each other and someone of us just know more than the others and have more experience. My recommendation for Buy Vs Lease is to go here:
Make sure you understand everything they are asking you for (ex : residual value) - if you understand what everythign means finanically, know your annual mileage, your own personal situation in terms of money available and what your goal are (like new cars frequently vs reliable car for a long term) you can decide which is best for you. Leasing is not always the most sound finanical decesion long term
k I feel like I may be getting super ripped off but I suck at negotiating for cars.anyway. I have a kia sportage lease ending this coming March.so I have $1080 left in payments plus the$400 disposition fee. I'm interested in leasing 2015 crv ex awd because of mileage. Would prefer the touring but sounds like a lot. So I went in for drive and quote.They said $1930 down to cover fees etc etc and they cover the $1080 I have left which I'm assuming that means throw some of it into the monthly but doesn't that mean I still gotta pay kia? Lol. Anyway 360 for 36/12k I'm in northern nj. I'm paying 360 monthly for the kia so I was looking to not pay more than that
I'm really bad with figuring out if the "total prices" are good deals. I usually care for the monthly prices. Is it realistic to think I can pay $360 or somehing like that a month with only $2k down for a 5 year finance instead? We put very little miles on my wife's leases. the Kia only has 14k in 3 years
This is an error - you should care about the base price and total OTD - you will be financing the amount based on that figure. Someone can sell you a car for far more money than its worth by manipulating the interest rate, period or base trim levels !
For your monthly rate to be lower, you need to ensure that the intrest on which your installment is calculated and the interest is as low as possible - this is the only way to ensure you get the most car per dollar.
Total OTD meaning? like ok hey im leasing this car, after all the numbers, how much am i paying after lease +residual? they told me residual was $17,900, something like that
If you are leasing, there is a separate discussion for that for the CR-V. Negotiate your best selling price by using the information on this discussion, then head over to the other discussion and we can help you with information and strategies to get the best lease payment.
Yea i'm thinking maybe I hsould finance. My wife puts such low mileage on the car that financing may sound better because after 3 years, the car is still freakin brand new. with financing in NJ. whats the minume to put down as far as all the fees are conerend? like $700ish? then after that wateve relse I want to put down I want to make sure 1st month's payment is in there? also with my excellent credit, make sure I get the 1.9%? and ask what is the TOTAL I'd be paying after 5 years? Including taxes? Like let's say its $25k, that means $25 including taxes and after 5 years I paid that much? or after 5 years I'm paying 25k plus taxes plus intersest? Man i'm too slow as this for you guys. I ask for patience please
First you have to decide how long you are keeping the car; leasing is not for everyone.
If you lease, the up front costs include the first months payment, the acquisition fee (charged by Honda Finance), dealer fee, and tags/license costs. In NJ, sales tax for a lease is calculated up front, and that can either be paid at lease inception or added into the selling price of the car.
The general idea behind a lease is that you are 'renting' the car for the number of years and miles you determine - only paying for that part of the depreciation. Generally works out to a lower payment, but there is less chance that you'll have equity in the car at the end of the lease term.
Well I just got an internet quote from DCH paramus nj Honda for a 2015 CRV EX AWD of $26,121 which according to the salesperson includes destination,taxes, fees, all that mumbo jumbo. Is that a pretty good price if that really is the price? And if so, how do I try to work out the monthly payments from there? ah but even at that price, with $2000 down and at 1.9% seems payments still hover in the $400's, ugh
Do you think I should wait till the end of the month? I dont think the blue Touring will last that long.
From reading the posts here, and knowing that the Touring is in short supply (and that's a great color), I'd just go ahead and buy it. Shoot, it could already be gone today.
Let's assume you pay $500 more than the next buyer, who waited until the end of the month. And let's assume you keep it for three years. That's $14 a month to enjoy driving the car you like right now.
Life is short and it's only money (plus, it's real easy for me to spend yours, lol). Get it and skip a movie or latte now and then.
Do you have a real computer, or are you doing this on a smartphone / tablet ?
If you have a real computer, then Excel has a formula to calculate payments.
=pmt(1.99%/12, 48, 24161)
This returns $523.20 for a loan period of 48 months, at 1.99%, on a total financed amount of $26,121 minus the $2,000 down payment.
For 60 months, the payments would be $422.58.
If you don't have Excel, you can download OpenOffice, which is free software and has pretty much the same capabilities.
If you are working on a smartphone / tablet, I'm sure there are apps to do the same thing.
ok just did it, yea ouch, that's $63 a month more than I'm already used to. ugh And that doesn't even include trading in the leased Kia that has $1077 left to pay plus the $400 return fee. You can say Honda can pay it off, but they'd just add it to the price of the CRV.
Do you have a real computer, or are you doing this on a smartphone / tablet ?
If you have a real computer, then Excel has a formula to calculate payments.
=pmt(1.99%/12, 48, 24161)
This returns $523.20 for a loan period of 48 months, at 1.99%, on a total financed amount of $26,121 minus the $2,000 down payment.
For 60 months, the payments would be $422.58.
If you don't have Excel, you can download OpenOffice, which is free software and has pretty much the same capabilities.
If you are working on a smartphone / tablet, I'm sure there are apps to do the same thing.
Ok, i asked about if that is the final price, she broke it down
$26,121 includes destination $1828.47 NJ 7%tax $369 doc fee $401 dmv fee $7.50 NJ Tire tax $28,726.97 Total out the door price.
so now that price.. how's that sound?a lot? reasonable?
anyone? also is it just me or is that Doc and DMV fee A LOT? or is it a NJ thing? It's looking like $28.700 is wayy too much based on what others are getting on 2015 EX AWD. Maybe if her sale price would have been like $25,000?
Do you have a real computer, or are you doing this on a smartphone / tablet ?
If you have a real computer, then Excel has a formula to calculate payments.
=pmt(1.99%/12, 48, 24161)
This returns $523.20 for a loan period of 48 months, at 1.99%, on a total financed amount of $26,121 minus the $2,000 down payment.
For 60 months, the payments would be $422.58.
If you don't have Excel, you can download OpenOffice, which is free software and has pretty much the same capabilities.
If you are working on a smartphone / tablet, I'm sure there are apps to do the same thing.
Ok, i asked about if that is the final price, she broke it down
$26,121 includes destination $1828.47 NJ 7%tax $369 doc fee $401 dmv fee $7.50 NJ Tire tax $28,726.97 Total out the door price.
so now that price.. how's that sound?a lot? reasonable?
anyone? also is it just me or is that Doc and DMV fee A LOT? or is it a NJ thing? It's looking like $28.700 is wayy too much based on what others are getting on 2015 EX AWD. Maybe if her sale price would have been like $25,000?
I think NJ collects 4 years of DMV fees, upfront... so, not so bad.
I think $369 is a lot for a doc fee, but it's not regulated in NJ.. might be the going rate.
Do you have a real computer, or are you doing this on a smartphone / tablet ?
If you have a real computer, then Excel has a formula to calculate payments.
=pmt(1.99%/12, 48, 24161)
This returns $523.20 for a loan period of 48 months, at 1.99%, on a total financed amount of $26,121 minus the $2,000 down payment.
For 60 months, the payments would be $422.58.
If you don't have Excel, you can download OpenOffice, which is free software and has pretty much the same capabilities.
If you are working on a smartphone / tablet, I'm sure there are apps to do the same thing.
Ok, i asked about if that is the final price, she broke it down
$26,121 includes destination $1828.47 NJ 7%tax $369 doc fee $401 dmv fee $7.50 NJ Tire tax $28,726.97 Total out the door price.
so now that price.. how's that sound?a lot? reasonable?
anyone? also is it just me or is that Doc and DMV fee A LOT? or is it a NJ thing? It's looking like $28.700 is wayy too much based on what others are getting on 2015 EX AWD. Maybe if her sale price would have been like $25,000?
I think NJ collects 4 years of DMV fees, upfront... so, not so bad.
I think $369 is a lot for a doc fee, but it's not regulated in NJ.. might be the going rate.
Do you think I should wait till the end of the month? I dont think the blue Touring will last that long.
From reading the posts here, and knowing that the Touring is in short supply (and that's a great color), I'd just go ahead and buy it. Shoot, it could already be gone today.
Let's assume you pay $500 more than the next buyer, who waited until the end of the month. And let's assume you keep it for three years. That's $14 a month to enjoy driving the car you like right now.
Life is short and it's only money (plus, it's real easy for me to spend yours, lol). Get it and skip a movie or latte now and then.
The summary above is great...its puts so much in perspective. We will haggle over 500 USD but wont really think twice repeatedly ordering out or stopping by at $tarBuck$
This is as much a matter of personalities and personal priorities as anything else. To me, $500 is too much to leave on the table. $100 ? Yes, forget about it, not worth arguing over $100. Somewhere north of that number, but south of $500 is where I draw the line.
But as with many other things, this can vary. One day I might hold out over $250, whereas on a different day, in a different mood, I might scoff at $250. But $500 is going to be too much for me, no matter what my day has been like.
Can't disagree, and the trick is knowing if you left money on the table how much money you left on the table. You can grind down $500 and still miss another $500 in savings if you had walked and been called back. But how do you know that? (that's why we're here yakking, right?).
If you meet TMV you're doing "average" based on real numbers. So even if you pay TMV you can feel okay that you didn't pay more than the next guy. That's a good comfort level for a lot of people who just want a new car without spending a lot of time and going through what may be a hassle for them.
There's always going to be someone who's going to get a better deal than you, and it may not be your negotiating skills as much as the stars aligning (like the manufacturer offering a big bonus to the dealers that week to dump some inventory).
I tend to bargain and usually people are okay with it. I've gotten money off stuff at Nordstroms (a scratch and dent item), a grocery (bulk catfish), mostly recently some furniture and I always "shop" rates checking in to motels. The storage unit place got a bit miffed when I asked about any specials, but that's rare. But I'm not a grinder, I'll ask once nicely and then either do the deal or walk to the next one.
The other "trick" is not to need the car when you go to buy. If yours has been wrecked or needs a new transmission, you're not in a great position to negotiate. Otherwise you can take your time and wait for the price you like.
I don't really worry about someone getting a better deal than me. My interest in what others pay, is to get a feel for what is possible, so I'm not running around looking for an unrealistic price, or missing out on a big incentive.
How much extra is too much? Depends on what I'm looking for. If there is a killer incentive on last year's model that is going to save me thousands, and I can only find two of them left in the state, then I'm probably not going to grouse over a couple hundred dollars (not a lot, anyway).
But, if I'm looking at 20 new ones on the lot, and 4 more dealers in town.... then, I'll get it down to the last $50..
I was just looking for some numbers on a new Honda Fit. It's amazing how dead that thread is, compared to the CR-V and Accord Prices Paid threads. Anyone have a clue what the dealers are doing on new 2015 Fit's? Is it possible to get invoice or $500 under (as seems to be the going rate for new CR-V's)?
Comments
sale price $28,758
doc fee $166.27
electronic filing fee $25
dupage tax $2,098.82
new plates $196
out the door $31,244.09
Any thoughts on whether this is a good deal is much appreciated. Thanks everyone!
Did the dealer tell you what kind of incentives/cashback/offers were applied for getting the price of 24,073 on 2015 CRV AWD EX? Did you pay cash or financed?
Thanks.
======================================================
2015 Honda Crv Lx Awd
MSRP: $25,400
Sale Price: $23,530
Tax: $2305.94
Doc Fee $150
Reg/lic: $267.5
OTD = $26,262.44
======================================================
P.S. What's difference between MSRP and Invoice?
Invoice is supposedly what the dealer pays for a car. But invoice isn't a "real" number - there's holdback, bonuses, quota money and other incentives and spiffs we never hear about. All those payments from the manufacturer to the dealer is what makes it possible to buy some cars below invoice. Like yours.
TMV for a Seatle zip code (I used my BILs zip in Wallingford) is $24,872. That includes destination of $880 and is about halfway between MSRP and invoice. Invoice including destination is $23,955, so your quote is coming in $500 below invoice.
So far so good!
Can you do better? Maybe, but I'm surprised that the quotes are this good so early in the new model year.
Did you get other quotes? Have you been negotiating hard?
For Seattle, unless you are heading into the mountains a lot, you probably don't need AWD at all. It could be a bit handy in the damp, but good tires are the most important thing (and the driver).
I'm a bit more partial to the Honda than the Subaru, although I've never owned one. My wife doesn't much care for either brand. So buy what you like and don't stress out too much about whether the AWD is "false" or full time or part time or, in Honda's parlance, "real time". Much of that talk is just marketing anyway.
Good luck and let us know how the "grinding" goes.
Resale is typically better on the AWDs, except down in some of the southern parts of the US. The mileage hit isn't too bad either. If that's all in stock, you may not have much choice anyway.
Also, I noticed some of the dealers in Maryland are charging different prices for tags. Anyone know how much it should be in Maryland?
Finding it difficult to find a CRV Touring AWD in Modern Steel around here for a decent price.
Any help would be appreciated.
Sale Price:
$22,551
+
$246 (Wheel locks and Hood Deflector)
_______________________________
$22,797 plus $699 doc fee and TAVT for GA of $508.44
I had Honda Care added for $1,600 and I ended up getting at 1.94% interest rate from HFS and I also used the whole college grad thing as well which had a $500 discount.
So I hope I didn't get screwed but I tried my best. It was a blessing I didn't get the sunset copper as I wouldn't have been able to get out of the appearance package rip off otherwise. The dealer offered "one free oil change" as courtesy - rolls eyes.
Anyways thanks for reading!
I am assuming you are in Atlanta. Can you share the dealership and sales agent name with me.
Here are the Pre-tax tag title Prices for several dealers that quoted me via email and or phone last week leading up to Year End. Some may be N/A now that 12/31 has passed and some holiday year end cash was available from what I was told ($500.00). I refuse to "go in" to meet as that is a waste of time. When a find a motivated dealer that will offer a fair price and will discuss a reasonable trade allowance then I will make the trip.
2015 Honda CR-V EX AWD
Fletcher Jones 25,121
Lisle 25,278
Bill Kay 24,978
Valley 25,378
EX-L AWD
Lisle $27,660
Fletcher Jones $27,554
Follow-up: Bought the 2015 CR-V EX AWD Black yesterday from Valley Honda. They were absolutely great and worked to get to the trade number I needed for the '12 Accord I was trading. I brought the Edmunds, KBB and Autotrader trade estimates and they agreed to basically accept what worked out to be an average of the 3 which was still a wholesale number but I didn't leave them much room on the top line and very little incentives applying right now to the 2015 CR-V since they are still in pretty high demand.
I really liked the EX-L but didn't think that the leather would be practical when I loan the car to my teenagers as they are way too rough on assets that they haven't paid for (everything so far).
Thanks,
The OTD price for the 2015 CR-V Ex-L with Navi is $31,352.14
Base price : $29,169
Tax: $1,750.14 (6% )
Tags: $300
Documentation Fees: $133
Dealer installed options: Wheel locks
Notes: I custom ordered this from the factory and have not received it yet.
Do let me know what you think of the price?
Sounds like a good price, especially for one specially ordered. Did the dealer try to find one in your area that met your color choice or did you just want the newest off the line you could get?
We need to buy a car, as of right now we're renting. We are in Northern Virginia. We're looking for a 2015 Honda CR-V Touring AWD in VA, DC, and MD. We've emailed most of the dealers for prices. Most dealers only have one, or none, and don't seem to be getting many in. The dealers don't seem willing to discount the car much. We've driven the car and done Edmunds and TrueCar pricing. We want the Blue color and only this dealer has the price. It is very hard to find this color. Most dealers who even have a Touring AWD have the colors of black, silver, or white. The prices below DO NOT HAVE the destination fee in the amount. We think we did all the prices correctly.
The best price we have is from a dealer in our area that's the only one that has the color we want. The quote is $31,201 for just the car. That doesn't include destination fee, taxes, processing fees, or licensing. The car doesn't have an appearance package add ons like other dealers have added (wheel locks, mud guards, etc).
The invoice price for the car is $30,751 without destination fee in the price. The Edmunds TMV price is
$31,944 without the destination fee in the price. The TrueCar price keeps changing almost every other day.
Our issue with the car is it has 195 miles on it. Most of that came from them moving the car from a dealer in Maryland to the one we're talking with in VA. Is that a lot of miles for a new car? It seems like it to us.
We've been shopping around for a few months and this is the best we've been able to do in terms of price. Should we keep shopping or should we buy this car, even with 195 miles on it? Thanks for any advice. We would like to possible get this car by the weekend. We are open to ideas. All info is appreciated in advance.
So your most recent quote is still about $600 below our TMV. That's good.
Manufacturers can raise the invoice and MSRP numbers. Guess they'd have to redo the Monroney labels in that case, which is one reason why you don't see it happen too often. And yeah, demand for the Touring has been greater than the supply. I haven't looked at inventory for a while but maybe that's increasing.
195 miles is nothing to worry about (so long as it's disclosed to you beforehand - that's another long story we'll skip.
It's a pain "throwing money away" on a rental, but try to relax. There's another CR-V on another lot somewhere (or in transit) you'll be able to snag. The CR-V is the third best selling car in the US right now (the top two are pickups) and Honda and their dealers are making a killing selling them like hotcakes. The smart dealers will try to win you over now so they can move on to the next buyer. The rest will lollygag around until the end of the month and then they'll start dealing when they realize they are short of quota. Or so my theory goes, lol.
One thing you can do at this point is to take your quote, include the destination and any other fees that you are aware of, and add in the taxes. Use that as your upper limit and then go back to the dealer and ask them what's the lowest "out the door" price they can give you. Then counter a bit lower and see if you can work a deal.
On a related issue, does anyone know if it is possible for Honda to give a finance offer on a 2015 vehicle that is only on offer for a 2014? Would they consider it if it was requested from a high volume dealer?
Thank you
Stever--Thanks for your quick and detailed response. Do you think I should wait till the end of the month? I dont think the blue Touring will last that long.
So my zip is for Alexandria VA 22308. But we would get the Touring in Chantilly, VA (out near Dulles Airport IAD) Their zip is 20151.
I'm really bad with figuring out if the "total prices" are good deals. I usually care for the monthly prices.
Is it realistic to think I can pay $360 or somehing like that a month with only $2k down for a 5 year finance instead? We put very little miles on my wife's leases. the Kia only has 14k in 3 years
For your monthly rate to be lower, you need to ensure that the intrest on which your installment is calculated and the interest is as low as possible - this is the only way to ensure you get the most car per dollar.
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MODERATOR
2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
http://www.bankrate.com/calculators/auto/buy-or-lease-calculator.aspx
Make sure you understand everything they are asking you for (ex : residual value) - if you understand what everythign means finanically, know your annual mileage, your own personal situation in terms of money available and what your goal are (like new cars frequently vs reliable car for a long term) you can decide which is best for you. Leasing is not always the most sound finanical decesion long term
If you lease, the up front costs include the first months payment, the acquisition fee (charged by Honda Finance), dealer fee, and tags/license costs. In NJ, sales tax for a lease is calculated up front, and that can either be paid at lease inception or added into the selling price of the car.
The general idea behind a lease is that you are 'renting' the car for the number of years and miles you determine - only paying for that part of the depreciation. Generally works out to a lower payment, but there is less chance that you'll have equity in the car at the end of the lease term.
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and let us know! Post a pic of your new purchase or lease!
MODERATOR
2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
If you have a real computer, then Excel has a formula to calculate payments.
=pmt(1.99%/12, 48, 24161)
This returns $523.20 for a loan period of 48 months, at 1.99%, on a total financed amount of $26,121 minus the $2,000 down payment.
For 60 months, the payments would be $422.58.
If you don't have Excel, you can download OpenOffice, which is free software and has pretty much the same capabilities.
If you are working on a smartphone / tablet, I'm sure there are apps to do the same thing.
Let's assume you pay $500 more than the next buyer, who waited until the end of the month. And let's assume you keep it for three years. That's $14 a month to enjoy driving the car you like right now.
Life is short and it's only money (plus, it's real easy for me to spend yours, lol). Get it and skip a movie or latte now and then.
$26,121 includes destination
$1828.47 NJ 7%tax
$369 doc fee
$401 dmv fee
$7.50 NJ Tire tax
$28,726.97 Total out the door price.
so now that price.. how's that sound?a lot? reasonable?
anyone? also is it just me or is that Doc and DMV fee A LOT? or is it a NJ thing? It's looking like $28.700 is wayy too much based on what others are getting on 2015 EX AWD. Maybe if her sale price would have been like $25,000?
I think NJ collects 4 years of DMV fees, upfront... so, not so bad.
I think $369 is a lot for a doc fee, but it's not regulated in NJ.. might be the going rate.
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
But as with many other things, this can vary. One day I might hold out over $250, whereas on a different day, in a different mood, I might scoff at $250. But $500 is going to be too much for me, no matter what my day has been like.
if you left money on the tablehow much money you left on the table. You can grind down $500 and still miss another $500 in savings if you had walked and been called back. But how do you know that? (that's why we're here yakking, right?).If you meet TMV you're doing "average" based on real numbers. So even if you pay TMV you can feel okay that you didn't pay more than the next guy. That's a good comfort level for a lot of people who just want a new car without spending a lot of time and going through what may be a hassle for them.
There's always going to be someone who's going to get a better deal than you, and it may not be your negotiating skills as much as the stars aligning (like the manufacturer offering a big bonus to the dealers that week to dump some inventory).
I tend to bargain and usually people are okay with it. I've gotten money off stuff at Nordstroms (a scratch and dent item), a grocery (bulk catfish), mostly recently some furniture and I always "shop" rates checking in to motels. The storage unit place got a bit miffed when I asked about any specials, but that's rare. But I'm not a grinder, I'll ask once nicely and then either do the deal or walk to the next one.
The other "trick" is not to need the car when you go to buy. If yours has been wrecked or needs a new transmission, you're not in a great position to negotiate. Otherwise you can take your time and wait for the price you like.
How much extra is too much? Depends on what I'm looking for. If there is a killer incentive on last year's model that is going to save me thousands, and I can only find two of them left in the state, then I'm probably not going to grouse over a couple hundred dollars (not a lot, anyway).
But, if I'm looking at 20 new ones on the lot, and 4 more dealers in town.... then, I'll get it down to the last $50..
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Negotiating Car Prices