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Comments
sale price $28,758
doc fee $166.27
electronic filing fee $25
dupage tax $2,098.82
new plates $196
out the door $31,244.09
Any thoughts on whether this is a good deal is much appreciated. Thanks everyone!
Did the dealer tell you what kind of incentives/cashback/offers were applied for getting the price of 24,073 on 2015 CRV AWD EX? Did you pay cash or financed?
Thanks.
======================================================
2015 Honda Crv Lx Awd
MSRP: $25,400
Sale Price: $23,530
Tax: $2305.94
Doc Fee $150
Reg/lic: $267.5
OTD = $26,262.44
======================================================
P.S. What's difference between MSRP and Invoice?
Invoice is supposedly what the dealer pays for a car. But invoice isn't a "real" number - there's holdback, bonuses, quota money and other incentives and spiffs we never hear about. All those payments from the manufacturer to the dealer is what makes it possible to buy some cars below invoice. Like yours.
TMV for a Seatle zip code (I used my BILs zip in Wallingford) is $24,872. That includes destination of $880 and is about halfway between MSRP and invoice. Invoice including destination is $23,955, so your quote is coming in $500 below invoice.
So far so good!
Can you do better? Maybe, but I'm surprised that the quotes are this good so early in the new model year.
Did you get other quotes? Have you been negotiating hard?
For Seattle, unless you are heading into the mountains a lot, you probably don't need AWD at all. It could be a bit handy in the damp, but good tires are the most important thing (and the driver).
I'm a bit more partial to the Honda than the Subaru, although I've never owned one. My wife doesn't much care for either brand. So buy what you like and don't stress out too much about whether the AWD is "false" or full time or part time or, in Honda's parlance, "real time". Much of that talk is just marketing anyway.
Good luck and let us know how the "grinding" goes.
Resale is typically better on the AWDs, except down in some of the southern parts of the US. The mileage hit isn't too bad either. If that's all in stock, you may not have much choice anyway.
Also, I noticed some of the dealers in Maryland are charging different prices for tags. Anyone know how much it should be in Maryland?
Finding it difficult to find a CRV Touring AWD in Modern Steel around here for a decent price.
Any help would be appreciated.
Sale Price:
$22,551
+
$246 (Wheel locks and Hood Deflector)
_______________________________
$22,797 plus $699 doc fee and TAVT for GA of $508.44
I had Honda Care added for $1,600 and I ended up getting at 1.94% interest rate from HFS and I also used the whole college grad thing as well which had a $500 discount.
So I hope I didn't get screwed but I tried my best. It was a blessing I didn't get the sunset copper as I wouldn't have been able to get out of the appearance package rip off otherwise. The dealer offered "one free oil change" as courtesy - rolls eyes.
Anyways thanks for reading!
I am assuming you are in Atlanta. Can you share the dealership and sales agent name with me.
Here are the Pre-tax tag title Prices for several dealers that quoted me via email and or phone last week leading up to Year End. Some may be N/A now that 12/31 has passed and some holiday year end cash was available from what I was told ($500.00). I refuse to "go in" to meet as that is a waste of time. When a find a motivated dealer that will offer a fair price and will discuss a reasonable trade allowance then I will make the trip.
2015 Honda CR-V EX AWD
Fletcher Jones 25,121
Lisle 25,278
Bill Kay 24,978
Valley 25,378
EX-L AWD
Lisle $27,660
Fletcher Jones $27,554
Follow-up: Bought the 2015 CR-V EX AWD Black yesterday from Valley Honda. They were absolutely great and worked to get to the trade number I needed for the '12 Accord I was trading. I brought the Edmunds, KBB and Autotrader trade estimates and they agreed to basically accept what worked out to be an average of the 3 which was still a wholesale number but I didn't leave them much room on the top line and very little incentives applying right now to the 2015 CR-V since they are still in pretty high demand.
I really liked the EX-L but didn't think that the leather would be practical when I loan the car to my teenagers as they are way too rough on assets that they haven't paid for (everything so far).
Thanks,
The OTD price for the 2015 CR-V Ex-L with Navi is $31,352.14
Base price : $29,169
Tax: $1,750.14 (6% )
Tags: $300
Documentation Fees: $133
Dealer installed options: Wheel locks
Notes: I custom ordered this from the factory and have not received it yet.
Do let me know what you think of the price?
Sounds like a good price, especially for one specially ordered. Did the dealer try to find one in your area that met your color choice or did you just want the newest off the line you could get?
We need to buy a car, as of right now we're renting. We are in Northern Virginia. We're looking for a 2015 Honda CR-V Touring AWD in VA, DC, and MD. We've emailed most of the dealers for prices. Most dealers only have one, or none, and don't seem to be getting many in. The dealers don't seem willing to discount the car much. We've driven the car and done Edmunds and TrueCar pricing. We want the Blue color and only this dealer has the price. It is very hard to find this color. Most dealers who even have a Touring AWD have the colors of black, silver, or white. The prices below DO NOT HAVE the destination fee in the amount. We think we did all the prices correctly.
The best price we have is from a dealer in our area that's the only one that has the color we want. The quote is $31,201 for just the car. That doesn't include destination fee, taxes, processing fees, or licensing. The car doesn't have an appearance package add ons like other dealers have added (wheel locks, mud guards, etc).
The invoice price for the car is $30,751 without destination fee in the price. The Edmunds TMV price is
$31,944 without the destination fee in the price. The TrueCar price keeps changing almost every other day.
Our issue with the car is it has 195 miles on it. Most of that came from them moving the car from a dealer in Maryland to the one we're talking with in VA. Is that a lot of miles for a new car? It seems like it to us.
We've been shopping around for a few months and this is the best we've been able to do in terms of price. Should we keep shopping or should we buy this car, even with 195 miles on it? Thanks for any advice. We would like to possible get this car by the weekend. We are open to ideas. All info is appreciated in advance.
So your most recent quote is still about $600 below our TMV. That's good.
Manufacturers can raise the invoice and MSRP numbers. Guess they'd have to redo the Monroney labels in that case, which is one reason why you don't see it happen too often. And yeah, demand for the Touring has been greater than the supply. I haven't looked at inventory for a while but maybe that's increasing.
195 miles is nothing to worry about (so long as it's disclosed to you beforehand - that's another long story we'll skip.
It's a pain "throwing money away" on a rental, but try to relax. There's another CR-V on another lot somewhere (or in transit) you'll be able to snag. The CR-V is the third best selling car in the US right now (the top two are pickups) and Honda and their dealers are making a killing selling them like hotcakes. The smart dealers will try to win you over now so they can move on to the next buyer. The rest will lollygag around until the end of the month and then they'll start dealing when they realize they are short of quota. Or so my theory goes, lol.
One thing you can do at this point is to take your quote, include the destination and any other fees that you are aware of, and add in the taxes. Use that as your upper limit and then go back to the dealer and ask them what's the lowest "out the door" price they can give you. Then counter a bit lower and see if you can work a deal.
On a related issue, does anyone know if it is possible for Honda to give a finance offer on a 2015 vehicle that is only on offer for a 2014? Would they consider it if it was requested from a high volume dealer?
Thank you
Stever--Thanks for your quick and detailed response. Do you think I should wait till the end of the month? I dont think the blue Touring will last that long.
So my zip is for Alexandria VA 22308. But we would get the Touring in Chantilly, VA (out near Dulles Airport IAD) Their zip is 20151.
I'm really bad with figuring out if the "total prices" are good deals. I usually care for the monthly prices.
Is it realistic to think I can pay $360 or somehing like that a month with only $2k down for a 5 year finance instead? We put very little miles on my wife's leases. the Kia only has 14k in 3 years
For your monthly rate to be lower, you need to ensure that the intrest on which your installment is calculated and the interest is as low as possible - this is the only way to ensure you get the most car per dollar.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
http://www.bankrate.com/calculators/auto/buy-or-lease-calculator.aspx
Make sure you understand everything they are asking you for (ex : residual value) - if you understand what everythign means finanically, know your annual mileage, your own personal situation in terms of money available and what your goal are (like new cars frequently vs reliable car for a long term) you can decide which is best for you. Leasing is not always the most sound finanical decesion long term
If you lease, the up front costs include the first months payment, the acquisition fee (charged by Honda Finance), dealer fee, and tags/license costs. In NJ, sales tax for a lease is calculated up front, and that can either be paid at lease inception or added into the selling price of the car.
The general idea behind a lease is that you are 'renting' the car for the number of years and miles you determine - only paying for that part of the depreciation. Generally works out to a lower payment, but there is less chance that you'll have equity in the car at the end of the lease term.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
If you have a real computer, then Excel has a formula to calculate payments.
=pmt(1.99%/12, 48, 24161)
This returns $523.20 for a loan period of 48 months, at 1.99%, on a total financed amount of $26,121 minus the $2,000 down payment.
For 60 months, the payments would be $422.58.
If you don't have Excel, you can download OpenOffice, which is free software and has pretty much the same capabilities.
If you are working on a smartphone / tablet, I'm sure there are apps to do the same thing.
Let's assume you pay $500 more than the next buyer, who waited until the end of the month. And let's assume you keep it for three years. That's $14 a month to enjoy driving the car you like right now.
Life is short and it's only money (plus, it's real easy for me to spend yours, lol). Get it and skip a movie or latte now and then.
$26,121 includes destination
$1828.47 NJ 7%tax
$369 doc fee
$401 dmv fee
$7.50 NJ Tire tax
$28,726.97 Total out the door price.
so now that price.. how's that sound?a lot? reasonable?
anyone? also is it just me or is that Doc and DMV fee A LOT? or is it a NJ thing? It's looking like $28.700 is wayy too much based on what others are getting on 2015 EX AWD. Maybe if her sale price would have been like $25,000?
I think NJ collects 4 years of DMV fees, upfront... so, not so bad.
I think $369 is a lot for a doc fee, but it's not regulated in NJ.. might be the going rate.
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But as with many other things, this can vary. One day I might hold out over $250, whereas on a different day, in a different mood, I might scoff at $250. But $500 is going to be too much for me, no matter what my day has been like.
if you left money on the tablehow much money you left on the table. You can grind down $500 and still miss another $500 in savings if you had walked and been called back. But how do you know that? (that's why we're here yakking, right?).If you meet TMV you're doing "average" based on real numbers. So even if you pay TMV you can feel okay that you didn't pay more than the next guy. That's a good comfort level for a lot of people who just want a new car without spending a lot of time and going through what may be a hassle for them.
There's always going to be someone who's going to get a better deal than you, and it may not be your negotiating skills as much as the stars aligning (like the manufacturer offering a big bonus to the dealers that week to dump some inventory).
I tend to bargain and usually people are okay with it. I've gotten money off stuff at Nordstroms (a scratch and dent item), a grocery (bulk catfish), mostly recently some furniture and I always "shop" rates checking in to motels. The storage unit place got a bit miffed when I asked about any specials, but that's rare. But I'm not a grinder, I'll ask once nicely and then either do the deal or walk to the next one.
The other "trick" is not to need the car when you go to buy. If yours has been wrecked or needs a new transmission, you're not in a great position to negotiate. Otherwise you can take your time and wait for the price you like.
How much extra is too much? Depends on what I'm looking for. If there is a killer incentive on last year's model that is going to save me thousands, and I can only find two of them left in the state, then I'm probably not going to grouse over a couple hundred dollars (not a lot, anyway).
But, if I'm looking at 20 new ones on the lot, and 4 more dealers in town.... then, I'll get it down to the last $50..
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Negotiating Car Prices