After seeing numerous comments made here, I would appreciate knowing an opinion on how I should proceed with getting a competitive lease deal on a 330xi.
I will be looking at a car that lists for $44,420. According to Edmunds, the invoice for the car is $40,715. The lease that I would opt for would be for 36 months, with 15k miles per year. I have no trade-in vehicle.
Should I be looking to deal directly with a sales person at the dealership, or is the best approach to establish contact via email with a lease specialist? Would you recommend that I try to negotiate the price as a separate component, and then negotiate the various aspects of the lease next?
I sincerely appreciate any help that you could provide.
There are all different ways to approach it... and, I'm really better at the numbers part of it, than the negotiating... So, I'll just tell you how I was recently successful....
I was browsing the local inventory on-line, and spotted a car I was interested in.. I dropped by on Sunday, while they were closed, to make sure it was on the lot.. which it was...
The next day, I e-mailed a sales rep.. Just picked the top one on the list off of the website.. and, I laid out the exact lease deal I wanted.. 3 days later, I got an e-mail back.. "the car was available.. was I still interested?, etc., etc..., we are very close on numbers.."
I called back the next day, made an appointment to drive the car that Saturday, and made the deal.. got bumped up $200.. which was agreeable..
I don't think the e-mail or on-line part of all this is what is really important, though.. The key was... I knew the exact car I wanted, and the exact lease numbers and what I was willing to pay.. I just didn't leave any room for misunderstandings..
Next post... I'll use your numbers as an example..
'06 330xi 3yr/45K lease Residual 61% Base money factor .00225
$44,420 MSRP $42,215 Selling price ($1500 over invoice) $42,840 Cap cost (selling price + $625 acq.fee) Payment = $595/mo.+tax (for example purposes, assume tax is 6% of the payment) Payment = $631/mo. including tax. Due at signing = 1st pymt ($631), security deposit ($650), title/license fees ($100-$400, locally dependent) = Approx. $1500 (my total title/license fees were $114)
If you feel like negotiating, and think you might be able to do better, go in $500 under this.. Every $100 difference in selling price changes the pretax payment by almost exactly $3/mo.
If these prices look high, it is because the money factors represent a market rate of interest.. while residuals are decent, the money factors are nothing special.. all the more reason to make sure they don't mark them up..
As I stated before.... numbers are easy.. buying/negotiating is hard..
My 03 330i's lease expires at the end of May. I pick up my 06 330i in Munich on April 6 and leave it for shipment on April 16 (really 18th).
If I'm insanely lucky the 06 car will get to the US around the end of May. I don't have good luck, so I'm assuming I'll pay an extra month or so on my current car as I can't see the trip to CA taking only 45 days.
The dealer can't waive either fee... They can roll the acquisition fee into the monthly payment.. The base fee is $625, and some dealers will mark it up for extra profit..
BMWFS will waive the disposition fee.. if you lease another BMW..
This is good information and I appreciate it. Question: Are acquisition fees and security deposits ever waived? If so, what would this be based on? Is the MF likely to change within the next 30 days? (I realize that the dealer has some latitiude with this, even if the rate is not changed at the source. My question pertains to a market change that influences the rate at the source.)
Are the numbers you've quoted based on BMWFS being the financial source?
Acquisition fees.. They can be waived, but the bump in the money factor is .0003.. It is much cheaper to roll the fee into the cap cost..
The security deposit can be waived... in exchange for an increase in the money factor of .00015.... Again, not a good deal... You are better off making the security deposit, as you will get it back at the end of the lease..
At this point, the money factors aren't great.. I don't think there is much chance of them going up, but no idea what might actually happen..
All of the numbers are BMWFS numbers.. Independent banks can beat some deals, but usually not BMWFS... and, certainly not on the 3-series at this time..
I purchased my 330i about four months ago and this site was very helpful. Thank you kyfdx for your input. My local BMW dealer was not coming off msrp so I emailed a few dealers in nearby states and had a few offer 1k over invoice. This was even ordering to my specs. I love my car. Also the residuals are pretty high compared to other brands I was looking at. ie. porsche. Good Luck. Doug
Is this anywhere on Edmunds for BMW? I have an '03 325cic and I'm contemplating buying this...the dealer quoted me 1295 for 2 years 50K after the new warranty expires....my other vehicle is a Nissan, and Nissan offers a 'non-Nissan' extended warranty...4 yrs/48K for 1600...they say I can go anywhere to get it fixed, BUT per the BMW dealer, I'll have to pay out of pocket and get reimbursed.
The extended maintenance plan is not the same as the extended warranty.. I'm not sure if the convertible is more, but the list price to extend an '03 325i is $995.. Their isn't much of a margin there... the best deal I've heard of is $50 off...
But, be aware.. this only extends the "free maintenance".. The extended warranty for mechanical repairs is much more expensive... Around $2250, I think... The extended warranty mimics the CPO warranty... and I think it excludes a lot of what might go wrong with the power top..
Yep, ordered an e90 ED and got the price I wanted down to the penny.
PDC = park distance control. Not normally a necessary thing but my friend has a tendency to use bumpers as guide for when to brake. Ideally this add-on will help me avoid future trips to a bumper medic.
Went to a southern Calif. BMW dealership today to see what lease price I can get on a 330i. Before getting down to the numbers I told the sales manager that people are getting their 330's for about $800 to $1000 over invoice. He stated that, that’s not so anymore because the 330's are in such high demand right now and that he doesn’t work off invoice, he works off MSRP. (If I was going to get the car today I would have walked out at this point but I wanted to get a rough number so I went with it.) We ran the numbers on a car they had in stock with the following options:
1. premium 2. sport 3. nav. 4. auto
The MSRP of the car is $44845 and invoice is $41095 (edmunds.com). I think he told me that he was giving a $1700 discount off MSRP but these were the terms:
With $3000 total drive off, for 36 months, with 10k mi/yr, with a "two three five" (.00235 or 2.35 %?) money factor: $562/mo (which includes 8.25% tax)
Is this a good deal? I'm sure that with a little negotiating I can get the price down a bit more but is this way off, should I try another dealership? Anyone have any experience with so. cal. dealers they would like to recommend? Any help would be appreciated.
Hi all, finally picking up my 330i end of this week. Should I go for the tire warranty? I have heard mixed opinions. If most think it is worth getting...what is a good price/term? Thanks in advance. By the way, Houston dealers can't keep the 330i in stock...they are flying out the door.
I am new to this country and the whole car buying experience so please be gentel with me. I am going to purchase my first car and am looking at 2004/2005 325i either certified or pre owned since I dont think I can afford a 2006. I am in SoCal and was hoping if I could be guided as to what deal I can get from a dealer. I visited Century West BMW and was quoted $32,000 including tax for a 2004 325i 4 dr certified car. I am wondering if this was too much. All help is welcome.
Hm what is the mileage? and options? A 2006 is $30,900 plus $695 destination, and options. There seems to be real good deals in Cali as well. Personally, I would not pay 32k for a 2004, when I could have a 2006 E90 for the same money. Not too mention you can probably get better rates on a New vehicle and order exactally what you want. Good Luck, DL
Hello all I'm from eastern MA and shopping for a CPO 3 series. I found a 04 330i with sports and SMG package in the local BMW dealer. The car is CPO and has 15k miles, and the dealer's listed price is 33k. Is this price fair? KBB and Edmunds seems quote a similar car around 35k for CPO. A check with carfax reveled 11 records. Is 11 records normal for a 2 yr old car? I didn't purchase the full report yet cuz I'm not sure if this is a good deal. And horror stories with first generation SMG? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks!
Hm what is the mileage? and options? A 2006 is $30,900 plus $695 destination, and options. There seems to be real good deals in Cali as well. Personally, I would not pay 32k for a 2004, when I could have a 2006 E90 for the same money.
It really depends on the mileage and especially options. If it's a totally loaded up 04 325, then with the CPO warranty it's not a bad deal. If it's a base car, then it's not a good deal.
Hello all I'm from eastern MA and shopping for a CPO 3 series. I found a 04 330i with sports and SMG package in the local BMW dealer. The car is CPO and has 15k miles, and the dealer's listed price is 33k. Is this price fair? KBB and Edmunds seems quote a similar car around 35k for CPO. A check with carfax reveled 11 records. Is 11 records normal for a 2 yr old car? I didn't purchase the full report yet cuz I'm not sure if this is a good deal. And horror stories with first generation SMG? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks!
I would definitely drive the SMG if you haven't already... That transmission is for some people and not for others. Some love it, some hate it.
As far as the CarFax report, they'll show "11 reports" on the free one... then you'll look at the full report and all those 11 reports are personal registration, yearly state inspections, no odometer rollbacks, etc. Most reports they list are inoculous. That's not to say there isn't some bad in there, but don't at all be startled by it showing "11 reports." I think they just do that to make you curious enough to buy the full report.
Hi all. I will be purchasing a new car in the next couple of months and the BMW 325xi is currently topping the list. I was wondering if anyone in the Denver area has had experience with Costco or Sam's Club purchasing services? If so, was it a good deal? Did you use some other car buying service or did you just get quotes on your own? I've purchased most of the vehicles for both my wife and I through Costco and found it to be pretty good. I'm wondering if the experience would be the same with a car that seems to be as in demand as the BMWs.
After lurking shopping and test driving for sometime I've decide to buy a 330i w/premium,nav,comfort access & heated seats.
Can anyone give me an idea of what kind of pricing I should be looking for in the Los Angeles area? Is $800 to $1000 over invoice realistic? What about MACO can I ignore it or do I have to add that to the price over invoice.
This was at BMW of Dallas. Here is the catch: Normally they do not give these kind of discounts at any of the Dallas dealerships. I believe the only reason I got this deal was because I was there during the last few days of 2005. They seemed like they were trying to hit their unit sales numbers and were pretty motivated.
I have heard that Autobahn BMW in Fort Worth has the best pricing in the DFW Metroplex.
I wish you the best of luck in getting the best possible deal.
As you can see the residual value comes in play with the final lease price, right now 330i has the best lease.
Assuming car MSRP is $43,270. Purchase price is $41,365. .00195 Base Money Factor Rate (4.68%) 6% tax, 15k miles/year The 2 yr lease is $564 / month including tax. The 3 yr lease is $522 / month including tax.
As for these Aquisition, Bank fees, dealer fees, security deposit, they are pretty standard fees that do not change from month to month like residual/MF so I excluded them from the monthly formula.
325i Sedan 24 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 74% of MSRP – .00250 36 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 62% of MSRP – .00250
325xi Sedan 24 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 72% of MSRP – .00250 36 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 61% of MSRP – .00250
330i Sedan 24 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 74% of MSRP – .00195 36 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 62% of MSRP – .00195
330xi Sedan 24 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 72% of MSRP – .00225 36 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 61% of MSRP – .00225
We locked in at the end of last month and he said I can re-lock at a later time. I can't see it getting a whole lot better than two years 74%/MF 195. It could...but I can live with that rate. My payments on my 330i would be sub $400.
I just got a quote today from a dealer on a 2006 330i at Shelly BMW in SoCal. They are giving $1200 above invoice. I am also trading in a 2003 G35C I have on lease which has positive equity and they are willing to give me $2600 in credit for.
Is this a good deal? Thanks
24 mo / 12k mi Lease
Cap Cost: $43,060 Bank Fee: 825 Total Cap: 43,930 Cap Reduct: 1,600 Tax on Credit: 124 Net Cap: 42,330 MSRP: 44,920 Residual: 34,139.20
Monthly Payment: 540.76 License Fees: 352.75 Total Drive Off:2,617.51
Yeah, I asked her that and she said to get that rate I'd have to make a security deposit and after she input that in and changed the rate to .00195 my monthly payment went up?
This is with no money out of pocket, except for your $2600 in trade equity, right?
It looks okay.. As they told you, without a security deposit, the money factor is .0021... $1860 discount from MSRP is decent.. Acquisition fee is bumped up an extra $200.
If you had them take $600 of your cap reduction and put it towards a security deposit instead, you could get the .00195 rate.. This would raise your payment by around $16/mo.... ($16 X 24 = $384) but you would get the $600 back when your lease is up in two years.. An easy way to come out $200 ahead..
You could ask them to also drop the acquisition fee to $625.. It's hard to know how much bargaining power you have, as there is a trade-in involved...
Yes, there is no out of pocket other than my trade in.
However, I think I might payoff the 2003 G35C myself and try to sell it to a private party since there is around $5k to be made even after payoff + sales tax.
Btw, do I have more bargaining power if I do not have a trade-in vs. with a trade-in?
As far as bargaining power, it really doesn't make any difference... I only referenced that in regards to your lease deal, as you never know if they are offering fair value, or higher/lower on your trade..
For example: I could tell you that you should insist on $500 less money on your lease deal... but, for all I know they over-allowed on your trade.. A trade-in is a used car, and the value is variable..
Be very careful about buying your leased car, with the intent to re-sell it.. You know what the dealer will give you for it... You can only guess at what you might sell it for yourself..
New to the forum. I am looking to lease a 2006 330i, automatic with premium package. MSRP is $41,320. The salesman suggests the owners choice over the lease because of the tax laws in Texas. He stated that I could get this car for $3000 total up front on a 24 month owners choice at 10K a year. He said the monthly payment would be $550. What am I missing? I had another salesperson at another dealer quote me (for the same msrp) Selling price of 40320 plus TT & L, 36 months, 10k a year. $3500 due at signing. Residual $26,100 using a money factor of 2.5. Payment $585 on a lease. Doesn't sound that good to me. What do I need to work on? Thanks!
I already have a BMW lease, so no extra fees, AFAIK. I'll roll some of my existing MSD money into the new lease but that'll just be ~2k (which I get back at the end of the lease). Other than that, nothing.
I throught my sub-$500 a month lease on my 03 330i was good but sub-$400 is just plain tough to wrap my brain around.
Comments
These numbers are usually available in about a week.. Of course, the dealer has them today...
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I'm supposed to pick it up in Munich on April 6, 2006.
MSRP = 41,195
ED invoice plus $1000 dealer dealer profit
Still to come, the BMWCCA rebate and BMW will pay month two of the lease.
Ideally the MF will drop in Feb or March and I can lock in an even better rate.
I got my rebate check about 3 weeks ago... Almost enough to make a lease payment..
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I will be looking at a car that lists for $44,420. According to Edmunds, the invoice for the car is $40,715. The lease that I would opt for would be for 36 months, with 15k miles per year.
I have no trade-in vehicle.
Should I be looking to deal directly with a sales person at the dealership, or is the best approach to establish contact via email with a lease specialist? Would you recommend that I try to negotiate the price as a separate component, and then negotiate the various aspects of the lease next?
I sincerely appreciate any help that you could provide.
I was browsing the local inventory on-line, and spotted a car I was interested in.. I dropped by on Sunday, while they were closed, to make sure it was on the lot.. which it was...
The next day, I e-mailed a sales rep.. Just picked the top one on the list off of the website.. and, I laid out the exact lease deal I wanted.. 3 days later, I got an e-mail back.. "the car was available.. was I still interested?, etc., etc..., we are very close on numbers.."
I called back the next day, made an appointment to drive the car that Saturday, and made the deal.. got bumped up $200.. which was agreeable..
I don't think the e-mail or on-line part of all this is what is really important, though.. The key was... I knew the exact car I wanted, and the exact lease numbers and what I was willing to pay.. I just didn't leave any room for misunderstandings..
Next post... I'll use your numbers as an example..
regards,
kyfdx
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3yr/45K lease
Residual 61%
Base money factor .00225
$44,420 MSRP
$42,215 Selling price ($1500 over invoice)
$42,840 Cap cost (selling price + $625 acq.fee)
Payment = $595/mo.+tax
(for example purposes, assume tax is 6% of the payment)
Payment = $631/mo. including tax.
Due at signing = 1st pymt ($631), security deposit ($650), title/license fees ($100-$400, locally dependent) = Approx. $1500 (my total title/license fees were $114)
If you feel like negotiating, and think you might be able to do better, go in $500 under this.. Every $100 difference in selling price changes the pretax payment by almost exactly $3/mo.
If these prices look high, it is because the money factors represent a market rate of interest.. while residuals are decent, the money factors are nothing special.. all the more reason to make sure they don't mark them up..
As I stated before.... numbers are easy.. buying/negotiating is hard..
regards,
kyfdx
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If I'm insanely lucky the 06 car will get to the US around the end of May. I don't have good luck, so I'm assuming I'll pay an extra month or so on my current car as I can't see the trip to CA taking only 45 days.
Hey... I'm on vacation that week.. Can I go? :surprise:
RED ALERT!! '03 330i ZHP CPO... SoCal area... AVOID AT ALL COSTS!!!
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How difficult is it have dealer to waive both fee?
BMWFS will waive the disposition fee.. if you lease another BMW..
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Thanks
Question: Are acquisition fees and security deposits ever waived? If so, what would this be based on?
Is the MF likely to change within the next 30 days? (I realize that the dealer has some latitiude with this, even if the rate is not changed at the source. My question pertains to a market change that influences the rate at the source.)
Are the numbers you've quoted based on BMWFS being the financial source?
Thanks again for your help.
The security deposit can be waived... in exchange for an increase in the money factor of .00015.... Again, not a good deal... You are better off making the security deposit, as you will get it back at the end of the lease..
At this point, the money factors aren't great.. I don't think there is much chance of them going up, but no idea what might actually happen..
All of the numbers are BMWFS numbers.. Independent banks can beat some deals, but usually not BMWFS... and, certainly not on the 3-series at this time..
regards,
kyfdx
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2006 330i
*Demo car, in the showroom, w/ 4000 miles*
Premium Package
Cold Weather Package
Steptronic Auto
Satellite Radio
3yr/30K lease
$3650 - total out of pocket
$442.00/month - includes tax
I absolutly love the car! I test drove the Acura TL, Caddy CTS, Audi A6, Lexus IS, but the 330 prevailed!
Doug
"I love my car"
That is more important than anything else...
regards,
kyfdx
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But, be aware.. this only extends the "free maintenance".. The extended warranty for mechanical repairs is much more expensive... Around $2250, I think... The extended warranty mimics the CPO warranty... and I think it excludes a lot of what might go wrong with the power top..
regards,
kyfdx
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What is PDC?
And I'm guessing you got the $5k below MSRP with that ED deal that you always talked about?
PDC = park distance control. Not normally a necessary thing but my friend has a tendency to use bumpers as guide for when to brake. Ideally this add-on will help me avoid future trips to a bumper medic.
1. premium
2. sport
3. nav.
4. auto
The MSRP of the car is $44845 and invoice is $41095 (edmunds.com). I think he told me that he was giving a $1700 discount off MSRP but these were the terms:
With $3000 total drive off, for 36 months, with 10k mi/yr, with a "two three five" (.00235 or 2.35 %?) money factor: $562/mo (which includes 8.25% tax)
Is this a good deal? I'm sure that with a little negotiating I can get the price down a bit more but is this way off, should I try another dealership? Anyone have any experience with so. cal. dealers they would like to recommend? Any help would be appreciated.
I am new to this country and the whole car buying experience so please be gentel with me.
I am going to purchase my first car and am looking at 2004/2005 325i either certified or pre owned since I dont think I can afford a 2006. I am in SoCal and was hoping if I could be guided as to what deal I can get from a dealer.
I visited Century West BMW and was quoted $32,000 including tax for a 2004 325i 4 dr certified car. I am wondering if this was too much. All help is welcome.
Thanks
Good Luck,
DL
It really depends on the mileage and especially options. If it's a totally loaded up 04 325, then with the CPO warranty it's not a bad deal. If it's a base car, then it's not a good deal.
I would definitely drive the SMG if you haven't already... That transmission is for some people and not for others. Some love it, some hate it.
As far as the CarFax report, they'll show "11 reports" on the free one... then you'll look at the full report and all those 11 reports are personal registration, yearly state inspections, no odometer rollbacks, etc. Most reports they list are inoculous. That's not to say there isn't some bad in there, but don't at all be startled by it showing "11 reports." I think they just do that to make you curious enough to buy the full report.
Thx.
After lurking shopping and test driving for sometime I've decide to buy a 330i w/premium,nav,comfort access & heated seats.
Can anyone give me an idea of what kind of pricing I should be looking for in the Los Angeles area? Is $800 to $1000 over invoice realistic? What about MACO can I ignore it or do I have to add that to the price over invoice.
Thanks for your help
I have heard that Autobahn BMW in Fort Worth has the best pricing in the DFW Metroplex.
I wish you the best of luck in getting the best possible deal.
Assuming car MSRP is $43,270.
Purchase price is $41,365.
.00195 Base Money Factor Rate (4.68%)
6% tax, 15k miles/year
The 2 yr lease is $564 / month including tax.
The 3 yr lease is $522 / month including tax.
As for these Aquisition, Bank fees, dealer fees, security deposit, they are pretty standard fees that do not change from month to month like residual/MF so I excluded them from the monthly formula.
325i Sedan
24 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 74% of MSRP – .00250
36 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 62% of MSRP – .00250
325xi Sedan
24 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 72% of MSRP – .00250
36 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 61% of MSRP – .00250
330i Sedan
24 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 74% of MSRP – .00195
36 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 62% of MSRP – .00195
330xi Sedan
24 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 72% of MSRP – .00225
36 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 61% of MSRP – .00225
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A similar drop of .0005 in the money factor would save you around $30/mo..
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I just got a quote today from a dealer on a 2006 330i at Shelly BMW in SoCal. They are giving $1200 above invoice. I am also trading in a 2003 G35C I have on lease which has positive equity and they are willing to give me $2600 in credit for.
Is this a good deal? Thanks
24 mo / 12k mi Lease
Cap Cost: $43,060
Bank Fee: 825
Total Cap: 43,930
Cap Reduct: 1,600
Tax on Credit: 124
Net Cap: 42,330
MSRP: 44,920
Residual: 34,139.20
Monthly Payment: 540.76
License Fees: 352.75
Total Drive Off:2,617.51
Rate: .00210
Howard
I'm also wondering about the $825 bank fee too?
It looks okay.. As they told you, without a security deposit, the money factor is .0021... $1860 discount from MSRP is decent.. Acquisition fee is bumped up an extra $200.
If you had them take $600 of your cap reduction and put it towards a security deposit instead, you could get the .00195 rate.. This would raise your payment by around $16/mo.... ($16 X 24 = $384) but you would get the $600 back when your lease is up in two years.. An easy way to come out $200 ahead..
You could ask them to also drop the acquisition fee to $625.. It's hard to know how much bargaining power you have, as there is a trade-in involved...
regards,
kyfdx
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Yes, there is no out of pocket other than my trade in.
However, I think I might payoff the 2003 G35C myself and try to sell it to a private party since there is around $5k to be made even after payoff + sales tax.
Btw, do I have more bargaining power if I do not have a trade-in vs. with a trade-in?
Thank you,
Howard
For example: I could tell you that you should insist on $500 less money on your lease deal... but, for all I know they over-allowed on your trade.. A trade-in is a used car, and the value is variable..
Be very careful about buying your leased car, with the intent to re-sell it.. You know what the dealer will give you for it... You can only guess at what you might sell it for yourself..
regards,
kyfdx
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$200 off Bank Fee
$200 saved by lowering mf and putting down a Security Deposit
$100-200 more off the selling price of the car (hopefully)
I should be good to go after that.
Thanks again.
I had another salesperson at another dealer quote me (for the same msrp) Selling price of 40320 plus TT & L, 36 months, 10k a year. $3500 due at signing. Residual $26,100 using a money factor of 2.5. Payment $585 on a lease. Doesn't sound that good to me. What do I need to work on?
Thanks!
What is your up-front costs?
Besides the airline tix to Germany of course
I throught my sub-$500 a month lease on my 03 330i was good but sub-$400 is just plain tough to wrap my brain around.