My previous message was about the worst car purchase experience of my life, at Camelback BMW in Arizona.
I can add one additional fact. When I took delivery, I asked the salesman what the break-in instructions are: don't exceed this speed, this RPM, etc. He assured me that the 325i has *no* break-in period, that there were *no* suggested restrictions on driving during the first 1000 miles.
Several hundred miles later, when I get around to reading the owner's manual, I find that indeed you are not supposed to exceed 4500 RPM in the first 1200 miles, etc. The salesman simply lied. He could have said "I don't know, I'll find out." But he preferred to lie. This is typical of Chapman BMW in my experience.
Separately, I have never been contacted by BMW or JD Power about the car. I purchased it six weeks ago; should I expect to wait this long? My suspicion is that Camelback BMW failed to report my address to BMW of North America, because they know I am dissatisfied with them. How can I check this?
BTW, the car itself has 1300 miles on it now and is great. BMW is a good company; they just need to improve some of their dealerships.
I ended up getting a 36 month lease (15,000 mile) on a 2007 328i coupe - Monaco Blue, Leatherette (I actually like the leatherette, and it was a lot less than leather), automatic, bluetooth, bmw access, sport package - 18'alloy wheels, premium sound, tinted windows, (and i know there are some other options that I am forgetting). I negotiated to about $41,777, with invoice being $$42,500 or so.
I had a car that had a loan balance of $11K, and was not in the greatest shape. The KBB on the trade-in was about $12K. The dealership paid assumed the loan balance to pay-off and took my trade-in.
I paid $1K down w/ $600/mo + tax for monthly payments.
I wish I knew about this site before I made the purchase to compare, but i did some basic lease calculations to get the deal. I paid a little more than I should have, but given that my work gives me a $400 car allowance/month, I thought life could be worse.
The dealer (in az) was not very flexible with price. I actually wanted the 335 coupe, but the dealer said it would have to be ordered and a wait of 8-10 weeks, which is more like 3 months. The dealer only had two 328 coupes on the lot. No 335s.
Also, I guess dealers don't include floor mats with cars. I did not know this. If you guys do buy a car just make sure you negotiate floor mats as I didn't.
This was my 1st time leasing, and I've learned some valuable lessons.
Yes it's normal. In the past, dealership used via internet to lure additional sales, but as buyers started asking for multiple quotes and deciding on physically shoping at lowest quote dealer, many of the internet manager/salesperson have started tricking its customers.
Example is your quote. No money factor(finacing rate), down, and other valuable information.
I leased an 2006 325i auto with metallic paint for purchase price of $31,005(MACO and advertising fee included). I went to the lowest internet quote dealer (Stevens Creek, San Jose, CA).
I got .00265 money factor and none of the dealers wanted to discuss the base rate back then of .00225. Although many have posted that they received the base rate it's a lot harder to lower the base rate then lowering the price of your car. I gave $2,000 at drive-off, with 10,000/36-month lease.
You should be able to settle on a price between 200-to-750 over invoice before you start negotiating the lease rate.
I disagree with "the longer you drive it, the more mileage you put on it, the more it costs". that's not correct.
If you buy a new car today and drive it for 10 years, compare that to buying another new car at year five. Then compare it to swithing it out every 3 years. The depreciation in the early years really dirves up your total cost of ownership, so the cheapest way to own a car is to buy and drive it 8-10 years.
My 330i now has 6K miles on it, and I can tell you there is no doubt the car is quicker (especially in 1st > 2nd) after a few thousand miles. I also drive it "the old fashioned way" for 3K miles./... very easy, low RPM. I had a similar concern coming from a V8 (CLK 430), but its plenty quick. Heck, all I do is race up on someone to put the breakes on. Also, if you drive the Steptronic (or Trip.. cant remember the exact name) in manual, it's really quick.
I too test drove the 335 and it did not impress me. Everyone else is falling over themselves saying how great it is. I fully expected to be very impressed and planned to put a deposit down and place an order that day. Perhaps it was that I test drove the auto - I currently drive a stick.
I went back to the dealership and asked to drive a 330i that was broken in. Big difference. Engine revved freely and was much smoother - not as smooth as my 4.2 S-Type, but pretty much the engine I remembered, only better. What gets me is that either the dealer sells so many cars to people who don't know that they are supposed to be buying that they don't care, or the sales manager is brain dead. Had I not persisted, I'd have walked away with my initial negative experience and would be driving something else. This said, I'm ordering a 328i Coupe for January delivery when my lease is up. Enough car for me. Don't need every kid in a rice rocket challenging me because they want to see if they can dust the 335i. Unless you're into this, you won't miss a thing with a 328i.
New York -- 328 lease The 2007 328i coupe is available for leasing right now. With your specifications of auto transmission and sport pkg in a 36 month lease with 10,000 miles per year and registered in NYC with the taxes up front and no money down the amount due at start would be $3404.31 (includes $625 bank fee, $52.34 tax on bank fee, $500 refundable sec dep, $227.50 registration fees, $1501.47 NYC taxes, and the first month payment) and the monthly payments would be $498.
I know nothing about leases... is this a reasonable deal?
I'm driving a 2004 Jaguar S-Type 4.2 (300hp-8). From what I've read I'm sure you're right about the 335i being hard to beat - my point was that I 1) rarely try get to off the line asap (though I do like the power reserve when morons are trying to cut in line during traffic merges ), and 2) even jack-asses in pickups sometimes try to out-hustle my Jag - perhaps it's the red flag in front of a bull syndrome. I'm more into the handling than the raw power, and the 328i is plenty fast as it is - reviews say faster than a 2006 330i.
I am really kicking around a 335i sedan lease and haven't leased in many years. The 335i I'm looking at is $5,000 less than the 530 sedan currently on lease special for $549 a month. Can I get a payment around the same or less for a 24/36 month and a Sport package? The quotes I got seemed very high to me. The car should have a better residual than the 530, therefore the payments should be lower. With $4,500 down, 36 month 12k miles 761.60 +tax. 36 mnth 15k miles 794.21 +tax. 24 month 12 k miles 0down 811.60+ tax lic. 24 mnth 12k miles, $4,500 down 631.60 + tax. 24 mnth 15k miles 0 down 844.21 + tax. 24 mnth 15k miles $4,500 down 664.21 + tax. None of these seems particularly enticing to me.. Am I wrong?
Does anybody know the current MF and residual rates for a 325i?
Also, when calculating the cap cost of the car, which payments do you include?
I understand there's a $625 fee, but what other fees are appropriate to get charged from the dealer, and what are common ones they use to get more money out of you?
Does anybody know the current MF and residual rates for a 325i?
.00225 61% for 3yr/45K
Also, when calculating the cap cost of the car, which payments do you include?
Selling price plus acquisition fee.
I understand there's a $625 fee, but what other fees are appropriate to get charged from the dealer, and what are common ones they use to get more money out of you?
Local registration and title fees and taxes.. Anything else is just profit padding.. Typical are dealer fees or document fees.
An old Boxster S (almost 6 years old). I figured the newer BMW would be a good replacement. After all it has more HP, faster acceleration (barely) and newer technology. Like I said, I really wanted to love the 335 - it is a very nice car. It just did not give me the same feeling as driving the Boxster S. The biggest disappointments for me were the engine (maybe I had my hopes too high) and the steering (it felt a little heavy). Could it be the test car was not broken in? Maybe. I will test drive it again in a month or so and see how it feels. For the time being though I have decided to keep the P car.
Just when I have given up, found a '06 ZCP, 4 miles on the clock abandoned by a dude who forfeited his $1500 deposit. Car lists at 58,990 with ZCP,HK,pwr seats, lumbar, xenon and moonroof.I'm planning to offer my 38k mi 04 ZHP 6M,HK,XE,heat seats,ZPP at 27k$ and offer invoice for the m3 ($54,010). Car's been sitting at dealership for two months (actually they brought it to the showroom floor 3 weeks ago) since the guy deserted. The sales manager told me yesterday he'd make me a offer I couldn't refuse, a killer deal, that he's gotta cut his losses. We'll reconvene monday. Waddaya think? Will he take the bait at invoice + trade? I heard dealers still make money at invoice, aside from the 1500 he's already pocketed form the first guy. Yeah, I know, they've got a 335i coupe sitting next to it 13k less, but the new style hasn't grown on me, I love the e46 body, and I hate runflats; plus I'm more on the hard core side. I also dislike this no dipstick, the fob key business.. So, anybody wanna to chip in?
Does anyone have the BMWFS money factor and residual percentage for a 2007 328i sedan for 10K/year and 12K/year for 2 year, 3 year and 4 year leases?
I've been following these posts for a while and have a few clarifications: 1. Can the dealer negotiate the residual percentage or is it completely fixed by BMWFS? 2. I understand that the dealer can mark up the money factor. Is the max money factor mark-up 0.0004 or 0.00004? I've seen both numbers in various posts. 3. When is a good time to bring up the security deposits in negotiating the money factor down? 3. One disadvantage of ED is that you start making payments 30 days before you actually pick up the car--and then have to wait up to two months to see it again. That is three payments. I saw a post that says BMW picks up the second payment. Is this for all leases (of any term), or just those that are two year leases?
3) After the dealer has agreed to use the buy rate with no mark-up to the MF.
3) Actually, I think you have to pay just 14 days ahead now, and the car usually makes it back in about 6-7 weeks. About 60 days altogether. Of course, if you tying a vacation to your trip, then you save the cost of a rental car, while in Europe. BMWFS waives the second payment on all ED leases, but it adds .0003 to the base money factor to compensate for that.
Yeah, I know, they've got a 335i coupe sitting next to it 13k less, but the new style hasn't grown on me, I love the e46 body, and I hate runflats; plus I'm more on the hard core side. I also dislike this no dipstick, the fob key business.. So, anybody wanna to chip in?
You're gonna lose your shirt on that M3. The M3 has become worthless at this point. The 335i nearly matches it in most circumstances for far less.
Get the 335i, switch to real tires (just like the real tires on the M3). I switched to real tires on my e90 and it made all the differences on the car. BTW, get comfort access - you'll never have to think about a key again.
Do you have the money factors and residuals on 328xi and 335 coupes for 2 years 24/30K and 3 years 36/45? I'm planning on buying this through ED if that makes a difference.
Got my ZCP Interlagos M3 for invoice ($54010) minus $750 for a total of $53260, including 6CD changer, BMW alarm, wheel locks, weather mats, and tinted windows all-inclusive. I am thinking of putting the 3M bra, and of course getting my Valentine 1 from day one. Any advice on clear bras? I feel the M3 like the ZHP's big brother, powerful but gentle. BTW also got a fairly decent deal on the my beloved ZHP, which I left behind with mixed feelings, but with the conviction that I did the right thing to fulfill my passion for enthusiast driving.
I have been looking at a few different cars, G35x, 325xi, IS250awd. I gueess the question I am asking is what would a 06 or 07 325xi with navigation, sunroof run about? Just the basic setup. Not sure which car I want to buy yet, but after talking to the dealer and them tossing out about 39k I thought I ask here before dealing and making my mind up if it's even in my price range.
Yes ky, indeed it is the competition package, with its beautiful cross-spoke wheels and tantalizing interlagos e46 metallic blue body. Thanks to you, and this board for the feedback and support during negotiations. So far I've noticed the ride just about the same as my former ZHP, even at times more supple. So it has not been a major change. In the mean time, I'm following the break in guidelines strictly. Seriously considering now on my short range plans to sign for one of the BMW CCA performance driving schools to harness its full potential.
I just purchased a silver 330i E46 ZHP (the car you are looking at) with 70K miles for $22K. I looked up prices myself and couldn't figure out why I was being offered a good deal. Checked Carfax/NADSA/Kelly and everything.
Purchased an extended 2 yr third party warranty for $2895 to reduce my worries.
That was 1 week ago. So far I think I got a good deal. Looked around some too and could not find a better deal within 200 miles. I'm bringing the car into the dealer for BMW's "Inspection 2" for about $670 in two weeks. That should give me an idea as to how healthy the car is. It feels like new when i drive it.
This car is as close to an M3 sedan as you could possibly get. Check these out too:
Headache from repairs i need to deal with? Yeah, that I guess is the biggest catch. I purchased a 2-yr 3rd party warranty for $2895. I might cancel it if the Bimmer gets a clean bill when I bring it in for Inspection 2.
I thought either I get this one and spend $8K on repairs and still come out even or get a 330i with lesser miles but with extended warranty.
You just can't quote numbers here, be it price, HP, performance numbers. They're different cars. Drive both and go home with the one you want. Its your money!
That aside, i would probably pick the M3. The E46 simply has better styling and feels more like a BMW inside and out.
alibaja is correct, it's your HARD EARN MONEY this is a free country. My brother got a 60k miles on his 330i he decided to trade a new accord , no headache specially for everyday work....the only problem is not driving a 330i anymore.
...actually, my daily car IS a Honda... an '02 Odyssey. 90K miles and still drives like the day I got it. I drive mostly highway 20 mi one way to work and drop off the kids along the way. Edmunds says the True cost to own (TCO) over the next 5 yrs will be roughly $30K for my Honda, vs around $42K for the 330i. Curiously, you will spend roughly the same with an '04 Lexus IS300 ($40K) which is arguably a more dependable car. The Bimmer is our weekend 2nd car so it won't get too many miles.
Headache? My 330i ZHP I just traded, with 38K miles on the clock was the most reliable day ride I've owned. I know blueguys gave him trouble with the recalled ignition coils, but mine had the right ones (Bosch)from the beginning. Yeah, it did slurped oil here and there, but all the topping visits to the dealer were 15 minute quickies, free. And its part of life with a high performance engine. I guess like everything in life not all ZHPs are created equal. I kept records from mile 4 up until the last day. I put Michelin Pilot Sports PS2 shoes at 25K and they were awesome, stick like glue, no tramlining. Monday I went back to the dealer to retrieve stuff and I kissed him goodbye and wish him good luck with who ever his new owner may be. So all in all, never needed the Tylenol.
Bitoy, thanks for your words of encouragement. I busted my rear end this year and I'm glad it happened this way. I've been longing for this car ever since it first came on the cover of C&D. :P M3 update: Dealer threw in the free 3M bra,M poloshirt,2qts Castrol 10W-60,M valve stem caps and M keyholder, all as a final gesture of goodwill to secure future business.
looking for new rates for 328xi sedan for 2yr lease 15K I was quoted oct rate of 71% and .00315 Thanks On pricing, the sedan looks to be $1000 cheaper than coupe, is this correct.
I paid $33,500 + TTL on a 325i with an MSRP of $35,900 about four weeks ago. I think it was about $500 above invoice. I called around. Most dealers in my area said this was ok. Most had base models left or 330i's listing over 40K left, so they couldn't beat the price. Does anyone think it would have been possible to get substantially more than that off? I don't mean $500- I mean like 1K, 2K etc...
drmy, Just placed an order and agreed on lease terms today on a 335i sedan in Charleston, SC. I ordered a manual w/ metallic paint, premium, sport, comfort access, sirius, heated seats. MSRP = $45515 $1300 discount = $44215 36 months/10k miles a year Residual = 64% or $29129 $1500 due at signing Monthly payments are $585.30
I know this doesn't quite compare, and I certainly benefit from SC sales tax capped at $300, but hope it gives you a good idea. I was pretty pleased with the monthly payment and haven't calculated MF yet. MF has improved drastically from Oct to Nov. Good Luck.
Using your figures, I get $562/mo.. Unless tax is $70/mo, there are some added costs in there.. (title/license fees?, doc fees?)
Also, I show the base rate for the 328Xi sedan to be .00190.. Usually, they can only mark it up to .0023, so not sure how they are doing .0025...
It kind of sticks in my craw that they mark up the money factor, then offer to let you buy it down with MSDs.. That stated, at least they got the math right.. But, I think the security deposit would be $4550 more, not total..
There are a slew of 3-series models, many with different money factors and residuals.. so, maybe my source is wrong.. Other than the bumped up money factor, it is a decent deal on a brand new model.. (assuming you can reconcile the extra $70/mo.).
I just got my 328xi through military sales program. Of course I got a pretty good deal and what not. It was a factory direct so I could order specific items and leave out unwanted stuff. when I ordered my car I ordered automatatic, leather seats and power seats and cold package. I got bill of sales and order sheet before the car arrived so I can register beforehand, but when I got it, it was missing power seats on the list of option and I called BMW, and they said it should be on the car. when the car came, after I already registered it did not have power seats...I was bumbed and angry. I can't wait any longer and they told me they screwed up. so they are now offering me to stick with the car (coz they can't replace one), we'll reimburse the money for powerseats, plus $500 coz we are sorried the car is not what you really wanted and a floor mat. I can live without power seats, but how much resale value am I losing by taking a bmw without power seats? the Real important question is What's (how much)the reasonable compensation for that?
Has anyone recently bought a 335i coupe or looked into it? What kind of deals are on that car? From my understanding the dealers in the DFW area are selling it at MSRP!
Just negotiated a deal on a 2007 335i sedan. I did it all over the internet and phone and did not have to set foot in a dealer. I found that most of the dealer seem to not want to talk over the phone about numbers and kept insisting that the 07's was going for MSRP and would have to come in to ink a deal. After contacting 9 dealers I found one willing to talk and deal.
I ended up ordering one of their allocations cars, they had two cars on allocation which had not been built yet so it allowed me to configure it as I wanted and get it within a reasonable amount of time.
Originally, I was looking at an 06 and they were dealing a bit in August. They did not want to talk discount they were saying % over invoice. From what I have seen the MSRP is about 8.5% over invoice. It appeared that they come down to about 5% over invoice.
The dealer I found who was willing to deal was about 35 miles from me in NJ and after all said he let me have it at 4.5% over invoice which was about $2000 off MSRP. I got them to through in a few dealer options like Floor mats, Homelink and the Ipod interface.
Considering what I have seen and read this appears to be par with BMW on a new model year.
I am working with couple of them in central NJ and one is ready for about $1500 over Invoice on FULLY loaded MSRP around $48K. What color and options did you deal ? Good luck. Lease or buy?
Comments
I can add one additional fact. When I took delivery, I asked the salesman what the break-in instructions are: don't exceed this speed, this RPM, etc. He assured me that the 325i has *no* break-in period, that there were *no* suggested restrictions on driving during the first 1000 miles.
Several hundred miles later, when I get around to reading the owner's manual, I find that indeed you are not supposed to exceed 4500 RPM in the first 1200 miles, etc. The salesman simply lied. He could have said "I don't know, I'll find out." But he preferred to lie. This is typical of Chapman BMW in my experience.
Separately, I have never been contacted by BMW or JD Power about the car. I purchased it six weeks ago; should I expect to wait this long? My suspicion is that Camelback BMW failed to report my address to BMW of North America, because they know I am dissatisfied with them. How can I check this?
BTW, the car itself has 1300 miles on it now and is great. BMW is a good company; they just need to improve some of their dealerships.
I had a car that had a loan balance of $11K, and was not in the greatest shape. The KBB on the trade-in was about $12K. The dealership paid assumed the loan balance to pay-off and took my trade-in.
I paid $1K down w/ $600/mo + tax for monthly payments.
I wish I knew about this site before I made the purchase to compare, but i did some basic lease calculations to get the deal. I paid a little more than I should have, but given that my work gives me a $400 car allowance/month, I thought life could be worse.
The dealer (in az) was not very flexible with price. I actually wanted the 335 coupe, but the dealer said it would have to be ordered and a wait of 8-10 weeks, which is more like 3 months. The dealer only had two 328 coupes on the lot. No 335s.
Also, I guess dealers don't include floor mats with cars. I did not know this. If you guys do buy a car just make sure you negotiate floor mats as I didn't.
This was my 1st time leasing, and I've learned some valuable lessons.
Example is your quote. No money factor(finacing rate), down, and other valuable information.
I leased an 2006 325i auto with metallic paint for purchase price of $31,005(MACO and advertising fee included). I went to the lowest internet quote dealer (Stevens Creek, San Jose, CA).
I got .00265 money factor and none of the dealers wanted to discuss the base rate back then of .00225. Although many have posted that they received the base rate it's a lot harder to lower the base rate then lowering the price of your car. I gave $2,000 at drive-off, with 10,000/36-month lease.
You should be able to settle on a price between 200-to-750 over invoice before you start negotiating the lease rate.
If you buy a new car today and drive it for 10 years, compare that to buying another new car at year five. Then compare it to swithing it out every 3 years. The depreciation in the early years really dirves up your total cost of ownership, so the cheapest way to own a car is to buy and drive it 8-10 years.
good luck
I went back to the dealership and asked to drive a 330i that was broken in. Big difference. Engine revved freely and was much smoother - not as smooth as my 4.2 S-Type, but pretty much the engine I remembered, only better. What gets me is that either the dealer sells so many cars to people who don't know that they are supposed to be buying that they don't care, or the sales manager is brain dead. Had I not persisted, I'd have walked away with my initial negative experience and would be driving something else. This said, I'm ordering a 328i Coupe for January delivery when my lease is up. Enough car for me. Don't need every kid in a rice rocket challenging me because they want to see if they can dust the 335i. Unless you're into this, you won't miss a thing with a 328i.
I know nothing about leases... is this a reasonable deal?
I use this:
36 mo.
MF = .0020
Res. = 61%
Total Amt capitalized = $40,000
The monthly payments come out to be about $565/month.
Also, when calculating the cap cost of the car, which payments do you include?
I understand there's a $625 fee, but what other fees are appropriate to get charged from the dealer, and what are common ones they use to get more money out of you?
.00225 61% for 3yr/45K
Also, when calculating the cap cost of the car, which payments do you include?
Selling price plus acquisition fee.
I understand there's a $625 fee, but what other fees are appropriate to get charged from the dealer, and what are common ones they use to get more money out of you?
Local registration and title fees and taxes.. Anything else is just profit padding.. Typical are dealer fees or document fees.
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
Auto
Sport
Power front seat
Comfort Access
Metallic Paint
Dealer quoted me $36,720 plus tax and license.Does that sound reasonable? MSRP is 37,940.
I've been following these posts for a while and have a few clarifications:
1. Can the dealer negotiate the residual percentage or is it completely fixed by BMWFS?
2. I understand that the dealer can mark up the money factor. Is the max money factor mark-up 0.0004 or 0.00004? I've seen both numbers in various posts.
3. When is a good time to bring up the security deposits in negotiating the money factor down?
3. One disadvantage of ED is that you start making payments 30 days before you actually pick up the car--and then have to wait up to two months to see it again. That is three payments. I saw a post that says BMW picks up the second payment. Is this for all leases (of any term), or just those that are two year leases?
2) .0004
3) After the dealer has agreed to use the buy rate with no mark-up to the MF.
3)
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
You're gonna lose your shirt on that M3. The M3 has become worthless at this point. The 335i nearly matches it in most circumstances for far less.
Get the 335i, switch to real tires (just like the real tires on the M3). I switched to real tires on my e90 and it made all the differences on the car. BTW, get comfort access - you'll never have to think about a key again.
When they calculate the residual, is it on the MSRP on the car plus destination or just the MSRP on the car?
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
Do you have the money factors and residuals on 328xi and 335 coupes for 2 years 24/30K and 3 years 36/45? I'm planning on buying this through ED if that makes a difference.
Thanks!
ahdanna
ZCP? Is that the competition package?
I am seriously jealous...
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
Thanks,
Dil
Purchased an extended 2 yr third party warranty for $2895 to reduce my worries.
That was 1 week ago. So far I think I got a good deal. Looked around some too and could not find a better deal within 200 miles. I'm bringing the car into the dealer for BMW's "Inspection 2" for about $670 in two weeks. That should give me an idea as to how healthy the car is. It feels like new when i drive it.
This car is as close to an M3 sedan as you could possibly get. Check these out too:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_E46
http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Drives/Followup/articleId=100429
Let me know what you decide. As a friend told me, "get it if that is what you want."
I thought either I get this one and spend $8K on repairs and still come out even or get a 330i with lesser miles but with extended warranty.
That aside, i would probably pick the M3. The E46 simply has better styling and feels more like a BMW inside and out.
M3 update: Dealer threw in the free 3M bra,M poloshirt,2qts Castrol 10W-60,M valve stem caps and M keyholder, all as a final gesture of goodwill to secure future business.
I was quoted oct rate of 71% and .00315
Thanks
On pricing, the sedan looks to be $1000 cheaper than coupe, is this correct.
Thanks
You can also access this by clicking on the HELP link at the bottom of the page.
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
We are in Balt, MD and we are negotiating for a 2007 328xi lease, premium, cold weather pkg, sirius radio.
The MSRP: 39,590
price offered 38,100
acquisition fee: 625
money factor: .0025
residual value: 24,149
security and first month: 1286
payments: 636.42
we were told we could buy down the MF to .00201 by increasing our security deposit to 4550, which would bring our payments down to 604. Good deal?
Just placed an order and agreed on lease terms today on a 335i sedan in Charleston, SC. I ordered a manual w/ metallic paint, premium, sport, comfort access, sirius, heated seats.
MSRP = $45515
$1300 discount = $44215
36 months/10k miles a year
Residual = 64% or $29129
$1500 due at signing
Monthly payments are $585.30
I know this doesn't quite compare, and I certainly benefit from SC sales tax capped at $300, but hope it gives you a good idea. I was pretty pleased with the monthly payment and haven't calculated MF yet. MF has improved drastically from Oct to Nov. Good Luck.
Using your figures, I get $562/mo.. Unless tax is $70/mo, there are some added costs in there.. (title/license fees?, doc fees?)
Also, I show the base rate for the 328Xi sedan to be .00190.. Usually, they can only mark it up to .0023, so not sure how they are doing .0025...
It kind of sticks in my craw that they mark up the money factor, then offer to let you buy it down with MSDs.. That stated, at least they got the math right.. But, I think the security deposit would be $4550 more, not total..
There are a slew of 3-series models, many with different money factors and residuals.. so, maybe my source is wrong.. Other than the bumped up money factor, it is a decent deal on a brand new model.. (assuming you can reconcile the extra $70/mo.).
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
so they are now offering me to stick with the car (coz they can't replace one), we'll reimburse the money for powerseats, plus $500 coz we are sorried the car is not what you really wanted and a floor mat.
I can live without power seats, but how much resale value am I losing by taking a bmw without power seats? the Real important question is What's (how much)the reasonable compensation for that?
Money factor .00215
Residual .58 on 15K per year
Is that a good deal?
I ended up ordering one of their allocations cars, they had two cars on allocation which had not been built yet so it allowed me to configure it as I wanted and get it within a reasonable amount of time.
Originally, I was looking at an 06 and they were dealing a bit in August. They did not want to talk discount they were saying % over invoice. From what I have seen the MSRP is about 8.5% over invoice. It appeared that they come down to about 5% over invoice.
The dealer I found who was willing to deal was about 35 miles from me in NJ and after all said he let me have it at 4.5% over invoice which was about $2000 off MSRP. I got them to through in a few dealer options like Floor mats, Homelink and the Ipod interface.
Considering what I have seen and read this appears to be par with BMW on a new model year.
Has anyone been able to do much better?
What color and options did you deal ? Good luck. Lease or buy?