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2013 and earlier BMW 3-Series Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 267,274
    The MSRP on the window sticker is $37,395?

    And, the deal is $35,400 with only taxes and registration extra?

    If so, I'd take it..

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • thehuacthehuac Member Posts: 11
    Dealer in Westchester offered me an 06 330i for $42,000 + Taxes + DMV
    Sparkiling graphite metallic
    Black leather
    Automatic
    Premium Pkg.
    Sport Pkg.
    Comfort Access
    Heated front seats
    Park distance control (rear)
    Satellite radio prep ($75.00)

    Does this sound like a good deal? Should I go for it?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 267,274
    WHAT IS THE MSRP?

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  • hobie16hobie16 Member Posts: 1
    Can I anticipate getting equal deals if a dealer has to order my 325 instead of taking one off the lot. am looking to buy a 325i WITH THE ONLY OPTION being sport package.I guess bmw likes to load them up. I live in delaware. also will i be happy with the leathertte?
  • thehuacthehuac Member Posts: 11
    MSRP IS $44,270 INCLUDING DESTINATION.
  • vsaxenavsaxena Member Posts: 211
    Good deal if you can knock of almost 6% of the Sticker. Do you have a trade?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 267,274
    Yes... a very good deal..

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  • thehuacthehuac Member Posts: 11
    Yes, I do have a trade 2004 honda civic ex coupe 59,000 miles (commuter car) manual transmission but they were only giving me $7,000 for it. The car lists for $13,000. So I am keeping the civic.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 267,274
    You can probably do a little better with a car on the lot.... but, since your car will have almost no options, any car you find on the lot will still end up being more money....

    I like leather.... but, I've never heard anyone complain that has leatherette... And not one person has ever said they wished they had $1450 less in their pocket.

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • muckmuck Member Posts: 7
    I'd like to buy a new bmw 3 series. Anyone know which is the best dealer in cleveland, oh?
  • pptppt Member Posts: 7
    can anyone tell me what this SEPT 1 price increase is that I have been reading about? is it an increase to the MSRP?
  • calif65gmcalif65gm Member Posts: 75
    It's an increase to the invoice price.
  • pptppt Member Posts: 7
    how much of an increase? or does it depend on the car?
  • bdr127bdr127 Member Posts: 950
    It's actually an increase in both the invoice price and the MSRP..... It's an increase of, on average, about 1.5% (varies with model/options). Effective for all cars arriving on dealers' lots on or after September 1. If you ordered your car before July 20 and locked in the old pricing, even if it arrives after Sept 1, you'll get the old pricing. But that's the only way to get old pricing if the car gets there after September 1. If the car got to the dealer before Sept 1, then it still has old pricing.
  • timnytimny Member Posts: 142
    Great! My X3 is supposed to be in today. We'll see. The salesperson actually drove to my office with the paperwork, so that makes my life a little easier.

    Seems like you negotiated a great deal. I should have waited until Sept., too -- if only b/c it's basically Sept. when I take delivery!

    Is your lease for 36 or 39 months? Ours is for 39 months but with the 60% residual. It's basically like taking what would have been the total lease for the 36 month period and stretching it over 39 months. I can't complain (much!).
  • timnytimny Member Posts: 142
    Hola Friend!

    I've not followed this whole thread, but I've a question to put out there about the extended warranty option. I received a bit of double-speak on this from my dealer. Here's what I am told:

    Two options: Extended Warranty and Extended Maintenance

    Extended Warranty covers brake pads, oil, etc.
    Extended Maintenace covers power-train, electrical, etc.
    No overlap between the two
    Price of the EW is @ $1300; price of the EM is @ $3000. Also, I am told I'd have to decide whether or not to exercise either option within the first month of ownership. Is this true? I thought I could exercise the option anytime within the course of the original warranty program (50K/4years).

    What's your take on this?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 267,274
    You have them exactly backwards...

    But, you are correct... you can purchase anytime before the original plans are up...

    The BMWUSA website actually shows the list prices for the extended maintenance...

    I don't think the extended maintenance plan will ever change.... The extended warranty plan could be amended at any time...though not likely...

    If you are leasing, why would you want to purchase these? Even if you are leasing to eventually own, I wouldn't want to lock myself in.... in case I changed my mind...

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • davidd3davidd3 Member Posts: 582
    My CA told me that the Sep lease program for the 330i is the same as the Aug lease program. So my deal won't get any better by waiting for Sep.

    My lease will be for 36 months, 45K miles. I will be in danger of going over 50K (and out of warranty) even in just 36 months. That's why I'm not stretching it out to 39 months.

    I'm looking forward to the long weekend with my new car!
  • timnytimny Member Posts: 142
    Leasing an X3; purchasing a 330, which I intend to keep for a while (hence my interest in the extended warranty). So the extended warranty is the less expensive option (if so, that's exactly opposite to what I was told). Also, I was told that if I purchase after the first month, the price goes up and up with the age of the car. Also true?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 267,274
    Nope...you've got it backwards again... go back and read your original post...

    Warranty.... to fix stuff that breaks.... expensive..

    Maintenance... oil changes, brakes, adjustments, filters... not so expensive..

    As of right now... the price doesn't change with the age of car, as long as you are covered under the original plan.... Of course, that could change, if BMW decides to change it..

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • gadawg1gadawg1 Member Posts: 13
    Sorry to switch gears a bit, but I need some help.

    I loved my first Bimmer (a '99 E46 323i), but had to sell when I went overseas. Now that I'm back, and after a less than stellar experience with a Mazda 6s, I'm headed back to the driver's promised land...BMW!!! I've driven the E90 and am QUITE IMPRESSED with the level of refinement they've achieved in just a few short years...not to mention they are more fun than ever!

    The reason I'm writing is because I can't find anything but scraps of info on the '07 330ci coupe. I've seen some cool pics of what the M3 will probably look like...and its beyond sweet; if the standard coupe looks 1/2 as good as what I've seen it'll be beautiful. The problem is that I can't find any info. There are some forums (outside Edmunds) that have discussed BMW's indecision on the series designation; BMW considered creating a new notch for the 3 series coupe, naming it the 4 series (similar to how the 6 series is the coupe version of the 5), however, I read that the 3 Series name is too profitable and they've decided to keep it.

    I guess to make a LONG comment short(er), does ANYONE have ANY info on the E90 coupe! The dealer tells me that they are showing a fall '06 delivery for the first production, but I haven't seen a single "legitimate" pic of the new coupe, so I'm hesitant. I know it's still a ways out, but not even Edmunds seems to have any info.

    Can you, or someone else, enlighten me?

    GaDawg1
  • newbmwguynewbmwguy Member Posts: 6
    I'm no expert, but I just negotiated what I consider a good deal on a 2006 325i, gaining much insight from people here. I negotiated a drive-out price, including everything (tax, tag, title, and all dealer and other costs). I also requested that the dealers explain how they reached that drive-out price, i.e., separately set forth how much the car was, and how much went to tax, tag, title, and each other fee. I didn't want to just negotiate the price of the car alone, and take the chance that there would be a document fee of $499 added on after I thought I had a good deal.

    Maybe there's a better way of negotiating, but this seemed to work for me. Good luck.
  • voldermortvoldermort Member Posts: 67
    :cry: I thnk dealers shld get a grip & realize that there are educated consumers like us. Their numbers fluctuate all the time, and I have found that many dealers now send you to a 'consultant" which is code for salesperson which means "HAGGLE"! That's exactly what we don't want. We know the Dealer Invoice and the MSRP. Then we have the options dealer invoice & MSRP. STILL THEY DON'T WANT TO BUDGE. OR THEY ARE SIMPLY RUDE WITH THEIR EMAILS LIKE GOOD LUCK. NO DEALER WILL EVER SELL IT AT BLAH BLAH BLAH. IT'S GETTING HARDER AND HARDER TO GET THE SWEET DEAL. Anyway, does anyone know what the real residual and money factor is for the 3 series? I am in LI, and all the dealers here suck! Don't even try to negotiate with them. They are rude and arrogant. I am looking for the "deal" on the 3 series. Anyone with sound numbers?
  • davidd3davidd3 Member Posts: 582
    The current base money factor for the new 3 is .0025 for 36 months. For 15K miles per year, the residual is 60% of MRSP for the 330i (and 61% for the 325i, I think but I'm not sure). I am told by my Client Advisor that these same rates will apply in September. Dealers have a certain amount of discretion to mark up the base money factor. If they do, you can try to negotiate for them to give you the base money factor.
  • voldermortvoldermort Member Posts: 67
    Thanks Davidd3.
    I think I understand. I am not good with this. So the base money factor for all new 3 series is .0025 ( and not .00250 as he indicated on email)
    And the residual of 60% is only on the 330i.
    He still hasn't given me a quote on the car, and am waiting for that. What should I look for when he gives me the quote? The $750 over invoice he said he would give me on the 325 - and $500 over invoice on the 330i.

    The only options are the premium package, heated seats, steptronics.

    The way I see it is this, and tell me if I got it right please:
    Dealer Invoice :$33,215
    Options = $ 4360.00 (including destination charge)
    Total Should be $37,575.so if it's $750 over invoice shouldn't it be $38,325. When do I include NY sales tax 8.75%, and how do I calculate a lease with this.
    Please advise.
    Thank you.
  • voldermortvoldermort Member Posts: 67
    I am confused about this too:!!!
    Please advise!!!
    I have read in this forum that you shld find out what the capitalized cost is? What exactly is that?
    Also, What is the difference between the Gross Capitalized Cost?, and what is the Capitalized Cost Reduction, and then there is the Adjusted Capitalized Cost.
    Sld I also negotiate the aquisition fee? Then pay it up front with my taxes, and registration and 1st mth payment?
    Which Capitalized Cost should be used in the lease equation?
    Should the lease agreement state the MSRP even though there is an agreed dealer price that is lower than MSRP?
    What is Monroney MSRP????
    Is the disposition fee included in the mthly lease payment?
    Does anyone know of a great dealer who can give me the sweetest deal, and honest one?
    Thanks.
  • davidd3davidd3 Member Posts: 582
    .00250 is the same thing as .0025. The zero coming at the end is meaningless.

    Those prices would be great! I haven't heard of anything that low yet. I thought around $1,000 over invoice was about as good as it gets.

    Neogotiate the price of car + any and all misc dealer fees. Tax is whatever it is, depending on where you live. 8.75% sales tax is a bummer, but there's nothing to be negotiated there. Same goes for license plates and registration, I think. Be on the lookout for document fees, dealer conveyance fees and the like. I would add these misc fees to the quoted sales price of the car and then compare the total sum to that offered by a few other dealers. Dealers that charge misc fees, especially high ones, can sometimes be persuaded to drop or reduce such fees in a competitive situation. In my case, the dealer refused to drop a $275 conveyance fee but agreed to further reduce the sales price by a like amount.

    Good luck to you.

    I take delivery of my 330i on Friday. Counting down the days!
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 267,274

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  • nyccarguynyccarguy Member Posts: 17,533
    Where on Long Island do you live? You have to realize the market you're in. If you've been to the dealer in Roslyn, well look at all the people with MEGABUCKS who live there and just walk in and are willing to pay sticker or be satisfied with $500 off MSRP so they can be the first on the block to get the car. Some dealers act arrogant because they can be. Have you tried negotiating with dealer not on Long Island? Westchester and Southern CT aren't too far away.

    I see you're new to leasing too. YOu should post your questions on the Leasing Questions, Ask Here board here on Town Hall.

    The Capitalized cost of the lease is essentially the selling price of the car. Do not oay a Capitalized Cost Reduction. All this does is lower your payments by giving BMWFS money up front. This a terrible idea becasue if the car is totalled or stolen even the day you drive it off the lot, that money is NEVER gone! The base Acquistion fee is $625. They can mark it up I think $200, don't let them. If they insist on it, then just lower the price you're willing to pay for the car.

    Roll as much as you can into the lease so your drive off costs are as little as possible. This also gives you a better idea of the true cost of the lease. Roll your taxes in for the same reason you shouldn't put a Cap Cost Reduction (or Down Payment). Car gets lost or stolen, NY State isn't going to give up your precious tax dollars very easily.

    The lease agreement should state the MSRP because the residual value is based on the MSRP of the car and not the selling price.

    The dissposition fee is NOT included in the monthly payment.

    Just be cool my man. Don't get so excited. BMWs are not the botique cars they once were back in the day. As you know living on Long Island, 3 series are a dime a dozen. There are a lot of dealers who are willing to negotiate, just keep trying and good luck.

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD

  • davidd3davidd3 Member Posts: 582
    Oh, so you're leasing, not buying?

    The capitalized cost is the amount being financed in a lease transaction.

    Gross capitalized cost is your negotiated sales price minus the residual value (which is a fixed percentage of MSRP).

    Adjusted capitalized cost is the total amount being financed in a lease transaction. It is the gross capitlized cost adjusted by adding whatever taxes and fees you want to capitalize, and subtracting any down payment you want to make.

    Cap cost reduction is lease speak for down payment. It is better not to make down payments on leases, since this money will be gone in the event that the car is totaled or stolen. I feel the same way about taxes and fees. For that reason, I prefer to capitalize them rather than paying them up front.

    The base acquisition fee is $625. Dealers have some discretion to charge you more. It is only the overcharge, if any, that you could negotiate.

    The disposition fee is what you pay if you give the car back at the end of the lease. It is not included in your monthly payment.

    You really ought to talk to Car_Man in the Leasing Questions forum. He'll answer your questions and/or point you to resources.
  • voldermortvoldermort Member Posts: 67
    Live no where near those kind of people. You are right about the market here on LI. Every dealership assumes you have $ growing on ur trees. I was trying with the Westchester BMW but this Linda emailed me and said that if we wanted to purchase the car at invoice she could not sell it to us. I don't understand these dealers - or so called interned managers. Don't they want to sell volume? Isn't that better for the owner of the dealership?
    They act as if they owned the place, and they act as if they can be selective. Not to mention Haaberstad, and Competition. They are just as bad, but the worst has been Ralley !! You are so right. I will try Connecticut, but Darien and Ridgefield are different versions of Roslyn walk ins.
    Thank you for feedback and time!!!
    Will let you know - if we succeed.
    Gotta be positive.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 267,274
    If you are trying to get a BMW at invoice, you're not likely to have success...

    No incentives on the 3-series.... If they don't make any money at invoice, they can't make it up on volume...

    You might raise your target price by about $1000, at least... if you plan on buying one..

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • voldermortvoldermort Member Posts: 67
    Then why does Edmunds, and Con.......rs and Kelly show invoice dealer price? Whats the point? They should just tell us from get go to negotiate , pick a number from the MSRP substract it and thats what your selling price is.
    So if I go on this assumption, after I put in the options, I guess I should ask for $40k,577.50. Looks good to me.
    I am not trying to be sarcastic, just trying to understand, and trying to get a great car, at a good price for me the purchaser. They still make their money I am sure.
    And am planning on leasing it.
    Oh well,
    Thanks again.
    :cry: :cry::cry::cry:
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Member Posts: 17,533
    YOu have to be realistic. Like I said before, BMWs are not boutique cars anymore, but they certainly are not $40 something thousand dollar Chevrolet Tahoes that are being sold for Less than invoice at $28K!. $1000 over invoice on a BMW is a good deal. Go in looking for a concrete selling price, not saying I'm going to pay $X over invoice. Do you pricing research here on edmunds. Find out trhe exact car you want, the MSRP and the invoice and go from there.

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD

  • bdr127bdr127 Member Posts: 950
    Then why does Edmunds, and Con.......rs and Kelly show invoice dealer price? Whats the point? They should just tell us from get go to negotiate , pick a number from the MSRP substract it and thats what your selling price is.
    So if I go on this assumption, after I put in the options, I guess I should ask for $40k,577.50. Looks good to me.
    I am not trying to be sarcastic, just trying to understand, and trying to get a great car, at a good price for me the purchaser. They still make their money I am sure.


    Edmunds tells you MSRP and invoice so you are educated.... not so you can beat a dealer into selling a car at invoice. Edmunds does, in fact, tell you a number to go towards to negotiate --- TMV price. Check that out when you're looking up a car here on Edmunds.

    There's a real obsession in the car-buying world with "invoice".... Most domestic and Japanese manufacturers advertise "Selling At/Below Invoice" because they have extra money floating around and most dealers get some "holdback", a small amount of money paid by the manufacturer to the dealer per car sold. With regards to BMW, they don't have any holdback. Their "invoice" is a true invoice price. I can see that you're skeptical and paranoid that "they still make their money", but here's the deal with holdback:

    http://www.edmunds.com/advice/incentives/holdback/index.html
  • timnytimny Member Posts: 142
    Okay, I see what you mean by backwards -- what I described as EW was actually EM, etc.

    Hmmm ... so what's your take? If the EW is $3000, is it worth it? My agent told me it was 10 years/100,000 miles, but someone else at BMW told me it was an extra 4 years/50,000 miles.
  • chillnycchillnyc Member Posts: 20
    You can try Hassel BMW in Freeport or BMW of Bayside in Douglaston (Queens). I ordered my car from BMW of Bayside they were pretty cool with me.

    Regards,
    chillnyc
  • untrueuntrue Member Posts: 18
    I've bought 2 bimmers from them so far. Always below invoice. Neither of those cars were 1st year though....

    CZ

    p.s. Let me know how it goes....
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 267,274
    The EM is worth it... but, no point in buying it now... you have four years...

    Both the EM and EW are 6yr/100K plans... that is six years and 100K from your original purchase date... The EW works just like the BMW CPO warranty..

    Is it worth $3K? I have no idea... But, I know for sure I wouldn't buy it until I was closer to the expiration of the original warranty...

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • thr61thr61 Member Posts: 19
    While I have posted this to the lease forum for specific lease issues, I am interested in how this looks to folks who have purchased BMWs previously and have dealt with the dealers and finance organizations:

    2006 325i
    Standard transmission
    Cold weather package
    Premium package
    Satellite radio
    Metallic paint

    MSRP including $695 destination charge: $36,565

    I have been quoted $35,365 ($1200 off MSRP) and the following lease deal:

    36 months
    18,000 miles per year
    1st, last and acquisition fee, registration: $2,200
    MF: .275
    Residual: 61%
    Monthly payment w/tax: $582
  • wla10000wla10000 Member Posts: 21
    Faxed the authorization with $1000 credit card deposit this morning. Can't wait!

    Titanium Silver Metallic
    Black Dakota Leather
    Aluminum Trim
    Sport Package
    Premium Package
    On-Board Navigation System w/iDrive
    STEPTRONIC automatic transmission
    Power Rear Sunshade/Rear Manual Side Window Shades

    Good dealer and good experience, I will reveal the dealership once I get my VIN in a week.

    BTW, I DON'T recommend Peter Pan BMW and Weatherford, they were both arrogant. Twice I asked for a out the door quote via email, twice them dodged it. How difficult was it to give me a number. The very least thing they could've done would be give me some numbers (any number) so that the haggling could start. :mad:

    So the result is they didn't get my business while my dealer did, and they get bad reputation from me. :(
  • butter6butter6 Member Posts: 3
    Should I get any of these? My car is sapphire black and I got the big drill that a black "definitely" needs the touch of class and clear armor....

    - touch of class sealant protection
    - lo-jack recovery system
    - clear armor
    - road intire
    - keyless remote alarm system

    thanks!
  • bdr127bdr127 Member Posts: 950
    Does your car have BMW Assist? If so, you don't need lo-jack..... BMW Assist has theft recovery via GPS locator.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 267,274
    -No
    -No
    -No
    -No
    -Not for me.. some people feel they need an alarm...

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  • saigonboi21saigonboi21 Member Posts: 150
    Should I get any of these? My car is sapphire black and I got the big drill that a black "definitely" needs the touch of class and clear armor....

    I would defintely get the paint protection. I know it seems useless now. But what happens when someone eggs your car? Or you cant dry it fast enough when washing it? IT'll leave water spots all over. And when you park it under the sun or trees, it'll fade and will leave saps on your car. Mine is white and im getting the paint protection put on today. It makes the car looks new and shiny for the next 5 years. To me it's very much worth it. As for the road and tire protection. I just got the Tires and wheels protection. I think if you have BMW assist, it already comes with roadside assistances. Just think about it, it covers your wheels and tires for 5 years. It only costed me $450. It offers a piece of mind considering each Runflat tire costs around $300. This warranty comes with the no questions asked policy so you can always get your tires replaced for free- if you know what i mean...As for the rest, you dont need them IMO. They only way to steal a BMW is to tow it. ANd if yours comes with Assist, no need for lo-jack.
  • kg6ckg6c Member Posts: 18
    I have been calling around for a 06 325, with automatic, and power seats and all. The best I have been offered is $1300 below MSRP. Has anyone had a better experience, and if you have do you know anyone in this area. Also, if you have tier 1 credit, what are people financing these cars at? What rate for 60 months.
    Thanks
  • jeff193jeff193 Member Posts: 29
    kassim beta....dont doo bakwass.. :)

    3 series are going for a maximum for 1800 below invoice, in some cases 2200 but those are fully loaded 3 series.

    Kydfx could answer that question better.

    financing couldnt be lower than 5.5-6.5%.

    you are looking at a per month of atleast 655$.
  • bdr127bdr127 Member Posts: 950
    3 series are going for a maximum for 1800 below invoice, in some cases 2200 but those are fully loaded 3 series.

    Below invoice? That should be "below MSRP", right? :)
  • jeff193jeff193 Member Posts: 29
    Sorry i meant below MSRP
  • adp3adp3 Member Posts: 446
    Jeff: How about 2005 convertibles? I am looking to buy a used one, but I am wondering if the deals on new ones make it silly to buy a used one.
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