2013 and earlier-Honda CR-V Prices Paid and Buying Experience

maynerd

It's scheduled to deliver within 2 weeks! VERY excited!

Paid $28218.16 incl destination and the following options
- tinted windows
- mud guards
- wheel locks
- roof rack
- all season mats
- cargo tray

Thought it was a fair deal.

quickreply

crvexl4wd

They didn't have any EX-L's on the lot when we purchased, but the best I've received is a little over $26K on that.

Our purchase:
Invoice $23,092
MSRP $24,785
Paid $23,350 (This included a "$100" dealer add on for mud flaps)

nni

I got 2008 CR-V LX 2WD without anything on it for $20.9K on the road

I think it was not bad.//

trojan36

I recently got an internet quote for the CRV EXL 4wd with Navigator for $27,534. The price includes the $635 destination charge. Can some tell me if this is a good price?? Thx in adv.

faster

HI, Quickreply,

I am curious to see where your purchase was done. Can you share the region and dealer name you got the deal with?

Thank you in advance for your reply.

pusa

online quote price $24750, and when I went to the dealship, they already changed the quote price to 25800+, although finally they decided to honor the pervious quote price, they refused to throw in any accessories.

finally the price is 24750+635(destination)+299(the MVID fee!? for the etched window, which the dealer refused to take off the list although it is optional)+$720 for accessories (wood trim, wheel locker, all season mats, cargo tray)= 26400 plus tax. After tax, the dealer also asked 349 for state registration and another 298 for documentation fee (?!). I thought it was a good deal before, but after all these hidden fees, I am not sure any more, anyway, share with your guys and wish you good luck. let me know if you think the dealer has put any imappropriate fees into the contract

pusa

including tax and documentation and registration? wow, that is awesome

johker

Anyone have some ETA's on their EX-L's w/Navi? I am in Texas, and was told Nov 10-14 but it was just build on Oct 24. Does this even seem possible since it is coming from Japan? VIN starts with JHLRE387.

maynerd

Sorry that didn't include tax or registration....the options were included though.

cp999

I also got internet quotes in NJ a couple of weeks ago. I think one dealer also quote invoice price, but higher doc and registration fees. In general, I think the doc fee should be around $195 and registration fee should be $200~$300, depending on whether you trade in a car or not, in central jersey vicinity. The dealers always claimed that the registration fees (or MV fees) are what the DMV charge them so they don't have the exact figures beforehand. However, I found that the fees varied quite a bit from varous dealers. Even though your dealer quoted invoice price, the other fees are too either unreasonably high or unneccessary. I am sure you can find better deal from another dealer. In particular, I would not go for the accessories nor the MVID options.

carcar5

Just purchased a 2008 CR-V LX AWD with backup sensors installed for $21,500 plus tax and DMV. Bought it at Tarrytown Honda, which is just a little north of New York City. I realize this sounds like a sales pitch, but they were extremely professional and courteous and made the buying experience very pleasant. I would definitely recommend them.

trojan36

My dealer just quoted me a 2008 CRV, 4wd, EXL w/Navigation. He showed me a MV charge of $250 and a Doc fee of $299. Can anyone tell me what are these fees for? Are they inline with the normal fees? The dealer is in NJ and I am in NY. Thx in advance.

pete22

Those are both garbage fee's that the dealer is building into his price. So is quote is actually 549 higher. In other words he is pretending to quote a lower price by treating those extra fee's as sometihng required. All the quotes I got only include tax and license additional.

bjgw66

I sell for a smaller Honda dealership in WI. and we have not had anymore than 6 CR-V's on the lot at once since the redesign, and we have been selling a vast majority of them at full MSRP. only repeat Honda owners are getting special pricing... and by that I give 15% off of installed extras. if anybody in the last year has got a discount of more than like 650$ you got a fair price! good for you all! My wife and I paid $23,555 for an 08 EX 4WD with a hitch, all weather mats, cargo tray, splash grds and body side-moldings!!!

cp999

The doc fee is what the dealer charges for various documentations etc. and is basically an excuse to cover some of their costs and add profits. From the quotes that I got from various NJ dealers, I think $195 is more reasonable. The DM fee is "supposedly" the registration fee that the DMV charges the dealer for different things, including getting new license etc. The dealers I talked to claimed that they have no control of that fee and some even said they cannot provide accurate figures (that is lying). From the quotes that I got, they range from $200~$300, so your $250 is within the range. However, I think the fee is higher when somebody trade in a car (dealer needs to get new license for trade-in, plus new car license etc. as in my case), so I am not sure that fee is low. So all in all, they are higher than average. I found that some dealers quoted lower base prices, but increase misc fees (especially doc fee) to make up for it. Therefore you need to add all up to compare. Hope that helps. You should be able to get quotes that are within $200 of invoice. If not, you need to get more quote!

cp999

Come to think of it, considering that the normal annual registration fee is around $50 in NJ, and that the new car registration is good for 4 yrs, the fact that the dealers charge $200~$300 for registration fee may not be that out of line. May be somebody who know how much the DMV really charge for such fee in NJ can provide the accurate answer to whether that charge is fair or not.

trojan36

If the dealer is in NJ and I live in NY, can they still chrage for the DMV fee? If so, what do they provides me? I will still need to get the car registed in NY and paid for the title, taxes, etc.

simz

Which dealership did you get this pricing from? I am looking for 2008 CRV EXL 4WD too.

cp999

Sorry, I don't have the answer for you, as I am a NJ resident. May be somebody else has done similar deal and can answer that. Why don't you email and ask one of the NJ dealers this question to see what they say? You can even ask one of the dealers located too far away for you to really consider going there.

dseth

how much quote he offered you ? Iam just coming out from honda and i couldn't get a deal for EX-l with Navi for 25,250.He was ready to give me EX-L for around 24,000 . Is that a good price .

jjoslin

I guess offer of $24000 is for 2008 CRV EXL Front Wheel Drive and not an AWD. It's close to invoice and very good price.

trojan36

If you get the EXL, 4wd, w/Nav at close to 25,250, you've got a great deal. The best that I got is close to $26K. But $24K for a EXL is not bad, since the invoice is 24,822 (4wd).

trojan36

Although the Rogue is a very competitive car to the CRV, it still lacks an important feature - a Naviagtion system which all women drivers want.

maynerd

EX-L AWD with Nav invoices at 26,398 + Destination. If you get one at $26k or under you are getting a rediculous deal.

jjoslin

$24K for EXL is not bad!!!!! . It is super deal, I beleive. Getting EXL at an invoice price is difficult, any thing below invoice is super.

03honda

Hi All,

We're in the market for an 08 EX-L AWD and will be trading in a vehicle...I'm looking for suggestions as to whether or not to disclose that there will be a trade in when soliciting internet quotes for the CRV? Thoughts...

Thanks!

maynerd

Don't disclose the trade in until you get a price you like for the vehicle first.

goucher3

can you tell us where you got a EX-L for 24K ?
I am looking for one too. did they have many in stock?

cmp_crv_exl08

My car is supposed to arrive b/w nov 14 - 18 here in chicago suburbs.
Price $25,300
Doc fees $58.48
Taxes @ 7.75% = $1960.75
Plate transfer = $130
OTD price should be $27,449.23

crvexl4wd

Can you pls share the dealer and location info. I am also looking for the same one in Portland, OR.

eltipo1

Thanks for the info, hip! By the way, who was the dealership and how long ago did you buy?

johker

My EX-L w/Navi was pushed back from Nov 10-14 to the Nov 22-26. It was already shipped so just taking longer to get stateside then was anticipated.

cmp_crv_exl08

River Oaks Honda in Calumet City,IL.
I picked it up today!!!
$27,445.86
I'd be glad to help if anyone needs advice on their purchase.

yakultspits

Can you please break this down? Is this the OTD price? Thanks.

golfnut2082

Does your $25,300 price include the destination charge? If it does, you just got a CRV for $157.00 less then the invoice price. That's a great deal and ticks me off because I paid $500 more than you up in Wisconsin! :mad:

isellhondas

Why not?

The trade is worth what it's worth anyway.

Besides, any experienced salesperson can always smell a "hidden trade".

maynerd

Because you negotiate the best price for the New car then you negotiate the best price for the trade in. They are really two separate transactions, why would you do the both at the same time?

Tell me why is it to my advantage to do both at the same time?

cp999

There is probably no advantage in disclosing trade-in deal beforehand. I would not disclose it unless necessary. However, keep in mind that the registration fees (or the DMV fee as some dealers call it) will be different with or without trade-in, since there will be additional fee involved with the trade-in.

isellhondas

You've been reading too much "expert" advise on the internet.

You are buying a new car and trading in your old one.

That is ONE transaction not two.

If your trade in is worth 5000.00, that is what it is worth. It is worth that much if you tell me about it upfront or if you try to be coy and conceal it.

It's not to anyone's "advantage". It just causes us more work when we have to do the paperwork over.

We know this little trick and we can usually smell your trade in anyway,

maynerd

You've not explained the 'advantage' to me to disclose this ahead of time.

What exactly are you 'smelling' BTW?

Your tone gives me the impression that you want to use this knowledge to YOUR advantage.

Why do you call it a trick as well? You really sound like a slimy salesman.

Sorry but I don't buy it.

isellhondas

This dialoge is getting nowhere and I don't appreciate the name calling.

Once again, YOUR TRADE IS WORTH FINATE DOLLARS!!

It doesn't affect what you pay for the new car!!!

The "advantage" to me? Not having to redo the paperwork after you have sprung your trade on me!

The "advantage" to you...less time spent at the store!

Pure and simple...nothing more but I can tell you don't believe me.

I've heard it all...

" Will you be trading in your Civic?"

" Uh...I'm going to sell it myself"

" Uh...I think my neighbor is buying it"

" Uh..I don't know...I don't think so"

It really isn't big deal, but concealing it benefits nobody!

maynerd

My trade in is worth what I can sell it on the open market or what you will give me.

If I discuss both elements I won't get the best price for BOTH items. You act like I don't know the routine of what salespeople do. If it is negotiated at the same time I will end up getting a worse deal than if I negotiate both individually.

I've heard it all from a salesman as well so don't even try your doublespeak with me.

You MUST negotiate the separately to get the best deal. If I decide that what you are offering me for my trade in sucks...well guess what it'll all be wrapped into the price of the new car. I can't just pull the trade portion out because you'll put the incentives on the trade in instead of the new car. If you negotiate them separately I can pull the trade and I've still got the price that I want for the new car. PERIOD.

I don't believe you because you are not an advocate of the customer you are a salesman.

isellhondas

Well, you are entitled to think whatever you wish.

You sound like a bitter person who either believes everything you read or perhaps you have had bad experiences.

You can ALWAYS sell your trade in yourself and I often suggest this to a customer when it's not a desirable trade or they want too much for it. A trade can kill a deal, especially when it get's sprung.

I have spent hours with a customer driving cars and working out a deal only to have a hidden trade sprung on me. The customer demands more for it than it's worth and the whole deal blows up.

I have tried to explain things here in a straightforward, honest matter but you seem to seeth with contempt to those of us in the business who try to operate above board.

Life is too short to be so bitter!

kiawah

Maynerd,

You are overcomplicating this. I've bought many vehicles, and always upfront indicate if I have a trade....or think I might have a trade. The deals are combined but uniquely negotiated, so we agree on the new car cost (with or without the trade), and what they are willing to give on the trade. I'll do the combined deal if both pieces are fair. If the trade isn't fair, then I either go elsewhere to do the deal, or handle the trade disposition myself (ie, just make it a new car purchase).

We're both getting to the same financial decision points, it's just taking your process a little longer to get there.

isellhondas

There you go!

My point exactly!

Thank you!

dp_crv

Please let me know price (Include destination price AND Exclude TTL figure) if anyone has purchased Honda CRV EX 2WD in DFW area.

lessachs

Before I buy a car:
-I check the true market value of it on Edmunds.
-I check the trade in price for my existing car at Edmunds and KBB.
Edmunds will also tell me if there any incentives for the new car.
I get to the showroom equipped with what I thiink will be a fair price for the total package. If the dealer's figures match, I have a deal. If not, there's no deal.
Best deal: Buy a dependable car you like and keep it. New cars are a losing proposition. Even with the best deal, you take a hit as soon as the car leaves the lot.

koctailz

i guess i do agree with maynerd. if i have a trade in i will first email the internet departments of all my local dealers and find the ones that have the lowest prices. then i will advise i have a trade in as well and have them give me their best price for the trade in and otd with the trade in. i wouldn't drop the trade in info after the non trade in paperwork had been completed. that seems to no one's benefit. bottom line though is you will ALWAYS get more money on the private market for your car, but its just a matter if you want to hassle with it or not.

colloquor

Do yourself a favor and sell your existing car privately. You'll make more money than you ever will by trading it in, and you'll have a better handle on what you're really paying for the new CR-V. You will pay less for the CR-V if you don't have a trade-in. As an ex-car salesman, there are just too many ways to increase profits for the dealer with a trade-in. Always remember, what they give you on your trade-in above ACV (actual cash value), will come from what you could have paid for the new vehicle.

dotbowels

2008 Tucson GLS List $22,245 OUT DOOR $19115 Kansas City is this a good deal? 5 year bumper-bumper

2008 Honda CR-V LX List $21,335 OUT DOOR $20,035 3 yr bumper-bumper

In 3 years won't the Honda be worth more than the $920 diff

Need to do tomorrow