By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
I would think you should be able to get more than invoice..but can you get it is another story. Remember this car is 1 yr old and has already depreciated by around $3500. I would try to get more...start with $25,600 OTD. You have to get at least $300 under invoice...and it should be more imo.
I was at the dealership for HOURS haggling over the price. The dealer had a problem with the fact that I used 2 different email accounts to get an online quote. He sent a quote of $23185 to my "fake" email and was surprised when I showed it to him. He wanted $29000+ for the selling price and that included charging me for the options that I eventually got for free. He even tried to sneak a $700 alarm system charge on the price sheet.
Further to the dealer's dismay, my credit score is over 800 and I qualified for the 3.9%/60 months financing. However, he didn't want to give it to me because I was apparently "getting such a good deal". He said the low financing is only offered if the dealership is making a profit, lol. He tricked me and had me sign at 5.9% interest, saying that the financing department would change it to 3.9% later once they pulled my credit. However, I had to speak up later at financing, otherwise they were planning to go ahead with the 5.9%.
Long story short, I think I got a good deal after much haggling and having to watch out for their sneaky attempts to get more money. I also said no to the service plan. I can get it for less than half the price on-line.
I will also say that I went to the dealership in the evening. I think as it started getting late, the dealer just wanted to get a sale and go home. Especially after already spending several hours with me. He was more willing to negotiate. So I recommend going in at night.
So, where the story last left off, I was going to go in and sign once the title on the car was available... and when i went in to sit with the finance manager to finally sign out my lease and sign into the new one, lo and behold, I was informed that I was not qualified for Super Preferred, and on top of that, they claimed that the sales associate miscalculated the value of my trade. $350 down and $330 a month on a 2009 EX-L CRV was impossible.
After a few hours of displaying my extreme frustration and anger... the dealership rotated in their best... the head of Finance managers, an associate that we had a close relationship with, and finally, the GM of the branch. He had come in, and ran some numbers, telling me that there's nothing we could do... that both my credit and my trade were working against me, etc. I was inconsolable, especially because i had handed them $350 to seal the deal, but never signed official triplicate documents because the car was not in yet...
Anyways, the GM gave me his cell phone number, told me to leave and pretend like I was never there. So i did, afraid that I might become really nasty (my wife helped me out of there in one piece). This morning, he called me with this offer:
Vehicle: 2009 CR-V EX-L AWD
Price: 25,356.61
End of Lease buyout: 16,936.65
MF: 0.00270
Res: 61%
Mile allowance: 15K miles/year
Term: 36 mo lease.
Payments: $350 down (already paid), 35 payments of $350.
Provisions: take my 2006 Civic EX w/Navi, 39000 miles, 18 payments of $309 left, approx. 10,000~ buyout, as is, with bumper/fender/headlamp damage.
The GM claimed that he's losing approx $640 off of "net." Not sure what that means. He claims that he wants to keep me as a customer, especially after two perfect lease experiences with them.
After the aggravation of all this, I'm still seeing red, so i told him I'd call him back. The offer is printed up for me and waiting at the dealership.
Help me see clearly, ladies and gents. Hope I have enough information this time to go on.
Now, another dealer threw in this model number, RE4877JNW. He says it is a 2008 CR-V EX-L AWD.
Going by the pattern I would conclude that this is actually a 2007 CR-V, can you confirm?
I can't emphasize more that these cars are a year old!! You want under invoice! If you like the car, and plan on keeping it for a long time..you did ok. Personally, I would take the car back, and say screw you. Tell them you were not happy with their business practices. If they say what can they do..tell them you want $500 back!!
http://www.handa-accessories.com/crvint07.html
No it was not the OTD price. The OTD price was
$26,400
+$150 doc fee,
+ $140 title and new license fee
+8% tax( I live in cook county)
plus special 3.9% financing
free 1st oil change and car washes for life.
Make sure you go straight to the Asian guy ( i can email you his name), the other sales people look, shall I say, "unprofessional". You could probably go a couple hundred lower since they still have many 08's on the lot. They also offered me 200 below dealers invoice for an 09 but we wanted the 3.9 financing which saved us over 2 grand. The car was made in Japan and runs very nice so far.
Good luck and let us know how you did.
Pls provide MSRP, then:
negotiated car amount, tax, title, and doc/admin fees = OTD
CA tax (8.25%): $1802.55
Doc Prep: $55.00
Official fees: $224.75
OTD Price: $23,869.80
P.S.
Also I was surprised to get back $895 paid for extended warranty in 2000 for Honda Accord (never used).
they didnt gave my 1.9 %. I got % but i will refinance from AAA for 4.5 % next month
What did you decide? Thanks!
Can someone tell me if price for CRV 2008 EX-L 4WD
at $25,250.00 (includes destination fee, but not $228.00 document fee) is a good price. I am looking to buy tomorrow.
Thanks
When you say invoice is $25,492, does the include the $700 destination charge?
Thanks.
Bob
I have not purchased a vehicle yet, but wanted to relate my experience with Hendrick Honda of Charlotte.
They took a deposit from me to "locate" a vehicle and when I asked for my security deposit back (before they did anything to locate the vehicle), they would not refund it. Turns out that when I left my deposit, the document I hurriedly signed said that the deposit was actually a "partial payment". This little trick is how they can guarantee that they legally can keep your money if you do not purchase from them.
So, although keeping the deposit was "legally" their right, they do not realize that is not always about your legal right, but doing what's right by the customer (which they are certainly not interested in). They are the kind of dealership that likes to play games in order to come up with any reason to keep your money.
So, obviously, the lost of the deposit was ultimately my fault for leaving the deposit in the first place as well as signing the document.
I tell you this so that you can be educated when you are out shopping and hopefully you will not have to deal with car dealerships like Hendricks and learn a $500 lesson like me .
If you are in the Charlotte area, do yourself a big favor and take your business elsewhere and above all else, never leave them with a deposit under any circumstances.
If they had already located the vehicle and paid to send someone out to do a swap, then they would have expended costs. You indicate that they didn't get that far, so you'll get your money back.
I finally did get the money back but mostly because I went to Better Business and lodged the complaint. It wasn't so much about the money even though long ago it was tight (now why is that cycle coming back again...
Either way, lodge a complaint. I agree that if you did go thru your credit card, I'd stop payment. The only time you should ever plunk money down, and this is even an if, if they have ordered your car and you have a deal on money. Until you get to the point where your final contract is there with the final deal, keep your pocket book in your bag.
2009 CR-V EX-L 2WD for 24795 + Tax + Doc fee.
OTD is 27,150.
I would assume that a "partial payment" is towards a purchase. If there is no purchase then there is no need for a "partial payment".
Why would a dealership even want to keep money from someone who isn't even a customer? This is the stuff that give us (dealers) a bad name :mad:
Base price: $25,249
Dealer fee: $125
Taxes (5.6%)
Added fog lights and mud guards. Saved $250 due to incorrect prices listed on the web, which have since been corrected.
Also added an extended warranty (probably not needed) but...got it for $100 over cost instead of the 100% markup they first offered. And if I don't use the warranty I get what I paid for it back, minus $50 or can cancel it at anytime for a pro-rated refund.
Overall, a good experience...so far.
Two suggestions from my experience:
1) Call the parts department at several dealers to get accessory costs and installation costs so you know if the salesperson is marking up the accessories. Also check online for prices (i.e. if a site has a "build your vehicle" option try that and see what accessory prices are listed at.)
2) Never pay full price for an extended warranty. Offer 50% of initial price.
I am still amazed at some salespeople who think that buyers are uninformed. I had one guy tell me that I did way too much work because I knew what the invoice price on the vehicle was. That was a short conversation.
Good Luck!!
thanks.
25491- invoice
25991 - with dest fees
9.3% tax
156.25 license fee
50-doc fee
+ accessories (no price quoted for mud flaps, door edge, wheel locks)
OTD Price: 28,997
This is in the Seattle Market area. Is this a good price. If not help me know what questions to ask. I would like to buy this weekend. I also have a 2003 EX Element in good condition with 70,000 miles for trade in.
Thanks for your help!
Laura
Want to buy a commute car for my wife. And she is a big fan of CRV.
Got a quote as subject. Is this a fair or good deal in Houston TX?
Tomorrow, we will go shopping around the town. Any input is appreciated.
Thanks!
I am negotiating for a 2008 Honda CRV EX with all wheel drive.
The MSRP is approximately $24,820.00.
In my area the best price that I have recieved is $23,147.00.
This does not seem to be attractive given that the 2009 Craves are on the lots and we would have to eat a year of depreciation.
Would you be so kind as to provide some advice if you have any thoughts?
With appreciation and kind regards,
So I think you are being asked to pay more than $1,000 too much.
Is the low financing on the 2008s important to you? That could be a chunk of change: 1.9% vs 5-6% on an '09
May be taking a hit on depreciation with the '08 BUT you will have low mileage on it, under normal crcumstances, down the road......
Good Luck!
I was targeting $22,500 for the allwheel drive EX but the lowest figure that I have achieved is $23,147.
We were intending to pay cash so the special financing may not be relevent.
With appreciation and kind regards
Think your best bet for a good deal is with an '08. With the low interest rates why not finance a portion at 1.9% and you can always pay off early? Meanwhile, leave the $$$ in a short term CD and you can come out ahead.....
I'm wrestling with the same stuff....... :confuse:
and Backup Sensors.
Anybody who can share their experiences to what price should I negotiate and what is the best dealer I can visit to buy the car? I am near petersburg,va. Thank you in advance.