I recently purchased a remaining 2008 CR-V LX 2WD at Mike Pruitt Honda in Akron, Ohio for the dealer invoice price of $19,927 plus the Ohio document fee of $250, sales tax and $25.50 for titling. The lady who is the Internet Manager there was wonderful and up front with everything There are also two men on the Internet team and I got to meet them both. She was thorough and held nothing back. I had another offer for $50 better than this from another dealer who offered to beat her pricing. I like her style with "cut to the chase" pricing and I felt I owed her my loyalty. The entire experience, from initial email to meeting to vehicle delivery was great. Sometimes I think the we get carried away with pinching out the absolute best price - superior customer service wins my business any day! I highly recommend them!
The only problem is there isn't a REQUIRED $250 document fee in Ohio. Ohio law LIMITS the document fee dealers ARE ALLOWED to charge at their discretion to $250. It is not mandatory. They pulled a fast one on you. I would freak out and call the general manager and tell them you were misled by the salesman that it was required to be payed per state laws. They will probably refund you the $250. I have never paid a document fee on any vehicle I have ever purchased or leased even though every dealer tried to include it.
The previous statute capped the doc fee limit at $100. I have no idea why they changed it.
I don't see anywhere in the previous post where the document fee is listed as required, or that they were told that..
But, every dealer in Ohio charges it.. It's much easier to take that into account as you make your offer (just offer $250 less than you otherwise would), than to fight about it.
You can spend a lot of time and effort trying to avoid that fee, when all that really matters is the total price you pay.
What are the accessories that you added? can you specify the unit price of each? Thanks. Colonial Honda in Colonial Heights VA gave me an internet quote described below:
$22,414 + $299 Dealer Processing Fee + $38.75 for the New Tags + $20 for the DMV Title + $681.39 VA Sales Tax. All this equals out to $23453.14
For the accessories:
The Wheel Locks $80.35 Splash Guards $106.25 All-Season Floor Mats $158.90 Color-Matched Door-Edge Guards $129.15 Hood Air Deflector is $228.05 Leather Steering Wheel Cover $199.30
Anybody from VA who can help me find a good deal? I am willing to travel up to Washington DC to buy a Car.
My list of accessories is at work in the file- but from memory, I know the chrome tail pipe cover (not sure what that is called) was $90.00. Altogether I paid about $450 for: the tail pipe cover, the cargo mat, wheel locks and all weather mats. My CRV-EX was 4 wheel drive so it seems to me that your 2 wheel drive should be a little less expensive so maybe you can whittle them down a little more.
Everyone should be looking here for accessories http://www.handa-accessories.com/crv07.html. Why pay the dealer for most of them..when you can install them yourself, and save big money!
I don't see anywhere in the previous post where the document fee is listed as required, or that they were told that..
But, every dealer in Ohio charges it.. It's much easier to take that into account as you make your offer (just offer $250 less than you otherwise would), than to fight about it.
You can spend a lot of time and effort trying to avoid that fee, when all that really matters is the total price you pay.
regards, kyfdx
I think he was saying that the poster didn't get as good of a deal because the doc fee is negotiable.
Hi - I am in Northern New Jersey (Bergen County) and am looking to purchase a 2008 CRV-EX 4WD. I emailed several dealerships and the best offer I received so far is:
$22,600 (including destination) $1,582 7% sales tax $7.50 tire tax $199 documentation $254 DMV financing $24,642.50 total out the door price
What do you think? I want to purchase an '08 to take advantage of the 1.9% or 3.9% financing. We may also be trading in our 2003 Mazda...not sure how that will change everything.
Email Boch Honda in Norwood, MA. Tell them one of their customers got it six weeks ago or so for $22,000 plus $298 doc no other fees (just tax/title) and that you heard they went a few hundred dollars lower a few weeks later. Don't let them talk trade in at that point. Get a price. If i beats the other prices by enough, you should take Amtrak up here one way, get off at the 128 stop and get a cab to pick up the car or they may meet you at some mutual point. As for the Mazda- research online to find out the Blue Book as well as the auction prices. You may do better to sell separately than to trade in. If it is a trade in the dealers always want to see the car first. So I suppose in that instance there would be too much pressure on you to buy to be driving up here with two people in one car with the hope of driving home with two cars. The special financing came out after I bought so I don't know much about it. If it is adjustable rate you may do better with AAA fixed rate. I don't know what if anything the dealers put in the fine print for extras etc in their financing contracts. AAA was a breeze, pleasant experience. Good luck.
Thanks crvhappy, I appreciate your help! I use to visit my sister in Cambridge, MA before she moved to Chicago in June. I wouldn't mind making a day trip to Norwood, MA for a good deal. I'll send them an email now...
That does not seem like too bad of a price. The invoice for that car is 23,127, so you are $527 under invoice, and around $2200 under msrp. That's less then 10% of msrp though. The msrp is 24,820.00. Will you be keeping the car for over 5 years? That car has already depreciated 1 year, and is worth $3000 less than msrp. But it is new, and Honda is not budging enough on these models yet.
Thanks rupter for your help! We do plan on keeping this car for over 5 years (we've had our Mazda for that long). He just called it "Motor Vehicles Financing"...not sure what that really is!
Honda is running 1.9% for 36months, and 3.9% for 48 to 60 months on 2008's, and those rates are fixed.
I would ask exactly what that DMV fee is for goldswann. It's $250.00 and that's a pretty big fee to pay if it is not state mandated. If it is a dealer charge..tell them you won't pay that, and see what they say.
Like crv states, Boch would be ideal if you could work it out. I might give them a shot when I am ready to purchase. You certainly will get more for your mazda...$1500 to $2000 more, if you sell it on your own. But it may take a while in this economy, so you would have to be willing to wait to get your price. Good Luck!
I got an OTD price for $24,800 including tax, document fee, title, destination fee. However, the car doesn't come w/ any accessory. I live in Cook County, IL. Is this price a good deal? If not, what should it be? Thanks!
Hey jmpc..that sounds a little higher than goldswann's numbers. Can you break down the costs a little more, and we can go from there?. Your price should be 22,400 or less for the crv. The accessories can be purchased afterwords, at a significant reduced cost..from an online vendor.
Hey guys, I just discovered this forum and was looking for some feedback on a quote I just received. My wife and I are in the market for a 2008 CR-V EX-L AWD w/o Nav.
Yeah..that's the price I have been quoted by couple of dealers for a ex-awd, and I am not to thrilled with it. It's roughly $230.00 under invoice. Your other fee's look to be pretty reasonable.
If you don't care about color selection..I think you can do better. These cars are already a year old, and the dealers just aren't discounting them enough..imo. I don't know where you live, but Boch Honda in Mass. has been recommended alot by forum members, and their prices are roughly $1000.00 cheaper than the quotes you and I have been getting.
I am going to wait till the end of the month to make some dealers my final offer. I will not pay more than 22,300 locally. I am currently trying to sell my 2003 CVR-EX, and don't need a car right away..so I can wait. I am not going to purchase a new one until I sell the 2003. You might be in a different situation? The best time to shop is the end of the month. It's a buyers market..so try to take advantage while we can..is my motto.
If you want the best price go into the dealership. Dealerships don't like to give best pricing over the internet for the fact that you can print the quote out and just make the next place beat it. If you go in to the dealership they know they have a live one on the line and will be much more willing to negocate if they find out you did your homework. Every one here seems to be to worried that they aren't going to get the best deal in the twin cities. Remember that the person who gets the best deal never posts the information here because they won the car and got it for free.
LOL..funny. I don't want it for free. I just want a price that is fair for a car that is a year old. That's what I plan on doing..but I will wait until the end of the month to visit a dealer again, if selling my 2003v works out. 4 weeks ago, I went to a local dealer, and they would not budge from $23,192...I walked out. 1 week later, I went to another local dealer..they quoted the same price basically, and would not budge...I walked out. They went down to $22,884 only after I showed them a internet quote from another dealer. I live in the tri-state area..pa/nj/del. Maybe I will take a internet quote from Boch the next time I visit the dealer....lol.
Thanks Rupter. Good idea on waiting 'till end of month. Hopefully I can get a better deal. I'll try to visit the dealers this weekend to compare prices.
Some local internet prices in Wisconsin were ranging in the high 22k's for an '08 EX 4wd including destination, but not ttl. I just saw on Boch honda their october add for 21,588. Do you think it's going to be possible to negotiate a local dealer down another 1000 on an '08?
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Will the story change if I switch to 2008 CRV EX 4WD with OTD of 24100 but with the following FREE additional warranties: extended 7 year/ 100,000 mile power train warranty, one year of 24 hour emergency roadside assistance, one year of tire hazard reimbursement, and one year of travel interruption protection reimbursement?
I wasn't referring to you when I was talking about getting the car for free just responding to all the people out there who are willing to spend 2-3 days driving around to all the dealerships trying to save $200-300. You end up spending that much in gas. I do agree to your point regarding a 1 year old vehicle though. If the dealerships are unwilling to include deprecation look at new CRV. I've always had the best luck walking into dealerships and bringing all my information including financing. No reason to save $200 on the price of the car only to spend an extra $500 over the life of a car loan. In the midwest Toyota just announced 0% financing on the rav 4 and I believe 16 other models. Hopefully they are doing the same in your area. That will put honda at a slight disadvantage and maybe you can use that to your advantage and point out that over the life of the car loan buying a Rav-4 would save you X$. If the sales person knows that you may just go down the street to buy a car from Toyota they may be more likely to cut the price more. Good Luck and hope I didn't offend you, that wasn't my intention.
Will the story change if I switch to 2008 CRV EX 4WD with OTD of 24100 but with the following FREE additional warranties: extended 7 year/ 100,000 mile power train warranty, one year of 24 hour emergency roadside assistance, one year of tire hazard reimbursement, and one year of travel interruption protection reimbursement?
If you get Honda care, I believe it comes with 24 hour roadside assistance and other goodies, like hotel stay and such if your car needs a repair while traveling away from home.
Will the story change if I switch to 2008 CRV EX 4WD with OTD of 24100 but with the following FREE additional warranties: extended 7 year/ 100,000 mile power train warranty, one year of 24 hour emergency roadside assistance, one year of tire hazard reimbursement, and one year of travel interruption protection reimbursement?
If you get Honda care, I believe it comes with 24 hour roadside assistance and other goodies, like hotel stay and such if your car needs a repair while traveling away from home.
I see. but do you think it is a good deal already?
I took no offense to your post at all..no worries. With Toyota running the 0% I would think that would help all us hopeful crv buyers. I'm pretty sure they are running that promo nation wide. Every bit of the competitions incentives hopefully would help towards getting a better deal...I agree. I originally was looking at the rav 4, but my wife..the primary car driver, would prefer a crv.
Is that a honda care ext. warranty marv? What would that warranty retail for? Can you give a breakdown of that deal. I know you live in VA, so state tax is less?
They call it Worthwhile difference This Worthwhile difference includes an extended, 7 year/ 100,000 mile power train warranty, one year of 24 hour emergency roadside assistance, one year of tire hazard reimbursement, and one year of travel interruption protection reimbursement free of charge
Here is the breakdown:
car $23100 doc fee $287 title $20 tax $693 Worthwhile difference-$0 total became the OTD price -$ 24,100
I am looking for feedback on the following price for a 2008 EX 4WD, My lowest quote so far is: Dealer selling price: $22,112 Destination: $670 Dealer processing fee of $99 wheel lock $89 splash guards $189 pin stripe $89 Sales Tax - $1495 MD Reg&Tax%Tag: $222
OTD Price: $24,865
Have questions: what's dealer processing fee? it seems that the tax also include the destination and processing fee. is that correct ? Thanks !
The car price is still to high..imo. As far as extended warranty's are concerned, I don't believe in them. You are basically gambling when not purchasing one, but in my book, if a major component is going to break, it's usually within the standard warranty. If they break afterwords, in alot of cases, Honda will replace it with a "good faith warranty". The odds are in your favor that nothing major will go wrong with the car after the standard warranty expires.The standard power train warranty is good for 5 yrs. or 60k miles. That warranty is all profit for them, and costs them very little compared to the consumer.
If that is a 3rd party warranty, I would not even think about it. If it's not honda care, dealers frown upon it. Go into the dealers at the end of the month, and offer $22,500 with no ext. warranty, and see what they say.
The destination $ is not included in the price of $22,112? You can get genuine honda splash guards for $23,00 online, and install them yourself. You just remove 2 screws that are already in the wheel wheels, put the splash guards on, and reinstall the screws. It takes 5 minutes, and you just saved $160.00.
finally bought this vehicle, CRV 4WD EXL, selling price $24899 including destination and processing fee, $1493 tax, $222 reg&tag, the OTD is $26614.94. No other equipment added. Is this a fair deal ?
I don't know if it will be possible. These dealers will not budge off these high prices for a car that is 1 year old. Remember, this car has depreciated $3000 from msrp. so that means the book value of the car is $21,820. At $22,500 the dealer is breaking even, or maybe making a couple of hundred, because of dealer hold back, and Honda perks.
You might not get $22,500..but at the end of the month I would think you are going to get a price lower than you already have.
The invoice for that car is $24,822. What was the processing fee? You should be able to get below invoice. I have been quoted $250.00 below invoice for a EX. I would think there is more profit in a exl..so the savings should be more.
All dealers in MD request dealer processing fee of $99, I don't know what it is. Does the invoice include destination fee ? the offered price include destination fee $670 and processing fee $99, if subtract them, the fee is 24130. I don't know which on should I use to compare with invoice fee (24822)? 24130 ro 24899 ?
will it be a good deal if I get the same price ($24800) for the CRV EX AWD w/ $500 coupon? I was told that the car will have a mud guard and paint strip. They don't have any car w/ no accessory.
We had a transaction with two dealers. Dealer A and Dealer B with my brother. My brother is an American citizen and I am in the working visa good for 4 years. In dealer A, we were approved with 3.9% apr and we gave a downpayment of $1000. When we signed the contract, I was the primary owner and my brother was the co-signer. After 3 days, dealer A told us that our contract is null and void because of my issue of residency here in US. They are requiring us to re-sign the contract, with my brother as the primary owner and me as a co-signer. By doing so, American Honda (the financial company providing funds to buyers) will honor the contract and release the money to dealer A.
Before we can drive back to Dealer A to resign the contract, Dealer B gave as a quote lower than the OTD price that Dealer A gave to us. Dealer B can beat the OTD price of Dealer A with same model, same year, and with ADDITIONAL accessories.
Since our contract with Dealer A was null and void, we used the quote given to us by dealer B to re-negotiate to dealer A. We said that if they can match the price including the accessories quoted to us by Dealer B, we will re-sign the contract. But dealer A turned down our request and they said that there is no way that they can beat the price of Dealer B.
Dealer A tried to convince us that they already loss $750 from the OTD price that they gave to us and that the price they gave to us was the possible lowest price that they can give. Since, they did not want to lower the price, we just decided to return the CRV to them. When we request for the refund of our down payment, the sales manager told us that we need to pay them for the use of their CRV.
The following are the breakdown of the "use" of CRV Fuel: 15 gallons x $2.50 = $37.50 Mileage: 459 miles x 0.20 = $ 91.80 Delivery Detail: $154.00 Restocking fee: $58.00
Total: $341.30
We used a credit card to pay the down payment worth $1000. This down payment was already cleared from my credit card.(it has been 8 days since the transaction happened). They told us that they will deduct $341.30 from our down payment, and we will only receive a refund of $658.70 after a month.
Now, even if I will add $341.30 from the OTD price offered by Dealer B, OTD of dealer A was still higher.
We decided to ask a breakdown of the "USE" of the CRV, signed by the manager in order to have a proof regarding their reason of non-refunding of the total amount of down payment that we gave to them
Question: 1. Is the action of Dealer A appropriate? 2. Can we still dispute the down payment to my credit card company? 3. Can we still get a full refund from our down payment. 4. Any advice will be appreciated
It is probably not legal, but if you still have the car, keep it.
They released the vehicle to you, without having secured financing for it. You have the vehicle, all they have is your $1000.
Ask them for the full refund, and you will return the vehicle, otherwise, you keep the vehicle and they can shove the $1000 up their....
Simply turn the tables on them. They have a lot more to lose than you. Although you are risking them calling cops and claiming that you stole the car. All you will have to do is file a claim that they stole your deposit.
Alternativley, you can return the vehicle and then file a claim with the credit card. Explain to them what you explained here, and they may reverse the charges.
Wow..what a story, and hassle! 1st..you took delivery of the car, and drove it 459 miles? If you took delivery and signed the papers. than the deal you made with dealer A should stand. It's not their fault that you found a better deal after the fact. If you made the deal with dealer A, I assume their terms were acceptable to you at the time. Even though it sounds like they screwed up big time!
Why do you have to wait 30 day's for whatever amount of refund you will get back? They should refund a credit to your cc account immediately, once you return the car. You can dispute anything they did not return, to the cc company. They will let you know if they can get your money back, Your situation is very strange, so I have no idea what the outcome would be. Please keep us informed on how you are making out, and good luck!
I am interested in an '09 CR-V AWD w/ the navigation system. A dealer has agreed to sell it to me for $27000, including the $670 destination charge. I think that $26000 is more reasonable. Do I have the bargaining power to get it? I am in Rochester, NY.
Comments
The previous statute capped the doc fee limit at $100. I have no idea why they changed it.
But, every dealer in Ohio charges it.. It's much easier to take that into account as you make your offer (just offer $250 less than you otherwise would), than to fight about it.
You can spend a lot of time and effort trying to avoid that fee, when all that really matters is the total price you pay.
regards,
kyfdx
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Thanks. Colonial Honda in Colonial Heights VA gave me an internet quote described below:
$22,414 + $299 Dealer Processing Fee + $38.75 for the New Tags + $20 for the DMV Title + $681.39 VA Sales Tax. All this equals out to $23453.14
For the accessories:
The Wheel Locks $80.35
Splash Guards $106.25
All-Season Floor Mats $158.90
Color-Matched Door-Edge Guards $129.15
Hood Air Deflector is $228.05
Leather Steering Wheel Cover $199.30
Anybody from VA who can help me find a good deal? I am willing to travel up to Washington DC to buy a Car.
Thanks in advance
$22,414 + $299 Dealer Processing Fee + $38.75 for the New Tags + $20 for the DMV Title + $681.39 VA Sales Tax. All this equals out to $23453.14
For the accessories:
The Wheel Locks $80.35
Splash Guards $106.25
All-Season Floor Mats $158.90
Color-Matched Door-Edge Guards $129.15
Hood Air Deflector is $228.05
Leather Steering Wheel Cover $199.30
Is this a good deal already? Anybody from VA who can help me find a good deal? I am willing to travel up to Washington DC to buy a Car.
Thanks in advance
My CRV-EX was 4 wheel drive so it seems to me that your 2 wheel drive should be a little less expensive so maybe you can whittle them down a little more.
http://www.handa-accessories.com/crv07.html. Why pay the dealer for most of them..when you can install them yourself, and save big money!
But, every dealer in Ohio charges it.. It's much easier to take that into account as you make your offer (just offer $250 less than you otherwise would), than to fight about it.
You can spend a lot of time and effort trying to avoid that fee, when all that really matters is the total price you pay.
regards,
kyfdx
I think he was saying that the poster didn't get as good of a deal because the doc fee is negotiable.
$22,600 (including destination)
$1,582 7% sales tax
$7.50 tire tax
$199 documentation
$254 DMV financing
$24,642.50 total out the door price
What do you think? I want to purchase an '08 to take advantage of the 1.9% or 3.9% financing. We may also be trading in our 2003 Mazda...not sure how that will change everything.
Thanks for your help...I'm clueless!
Get a price. If i beats the other prices by enough, you should take Amtrak up here one way, get off at the 128 stop and get a cab to pick up the car or they may meet you at some mutual point.
As for the Mazda- research online to find out the Blue Book as well as the auction prices. You may do better to sell separately than to trade in. If it is a trade in the dealers always want to see the car first. So I suppose in that instance there would be too much pressure on you to buy to be driving up here with two people in one car with the hope of driving home with two cars.
The special financing came out after I bought so I don't know much about it. If it is adjustable rate you may do better with AAA fixed rate. I don't know what if anything the dealers put in the fine print for extras etc in their financing contracts. AAA was a breeze, pleasant experience. Good luck.
What is the DMV? Is that a NJ state fee?
I would ask exactly what that DMV fee is for goldswann. It's $250.00 and that's a pretty big fee to pay if it is not state mandated. If it is a dealer charge..tell them you won't pay that, and see what they say.
Like crv states, Boch would be ideal if you could work it out. I might give them a shot when I am ready to purchase. You certainly will get more for your mazda...$1500 to $2000 more, if you sell it on your own. But it may take a while in this economy, so you would have to be willing to wait to get your price. Good Luck!
here is the breakdown I was given
car 22894
doc fee 150
title 143
tax 1613.08
total became the OTD price - 24,800
What do you think???
Price - $25,450 (includes dest.)
Tax - $1,876 (7.375%)
Fees - $227.50 (plates, inspection, dmv, title)
OTD - $27,554.43
This was there first quote. How much more do you think I can bring them down? Right now there at invoice with their sale price.
If you don't care about color selection..I think you can do better. These cars are already a year old, and the dealers just aren't discounting them enough..imo. I don't know where you live, but Boch Honda in Mass. has been recommended alot by forum members, and their prices are roughly $1000.00 cheaper than the quotes you and I have been getting.
I am going to wait till the end of the month to make some dealers my final offer. I will not pay more than 22,300 locally. I am currently trying to sell my 2003 CVR-EX, and don't need a car right away..so I can wait. I am not going to purchase a new one until I sell the 2003. You might be in a different situation? The best time to shop is the end of the month. It's a buyers market..so try to take advantage while we can..is my motto.
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If you get Honda care, I believe it comes with 24 hour roadside assistance and other goodies, like hotel stay and such if your car needs a repair while traveling away from home.
If you get Honda care, I believe it comes with 24 hour roadside assistance and other goodies, like hotel stay and such if your car needs a repair while traveling away from home.
I see. but do you think it is a good deal already?
This Worthwhile difference includes an extended, 7 year/ 100,000 mile power train warranty, one year of 24 hour emergency roadside assistance, one year of tire hazard reimbursement, and one year of travel interruption protection reimbursement free of charge
Here is the breakdown:
car $23100
doc fee $287
title $20
tax $693
Worthwhile difference-$0
total became the OTD price -$ 24,100
What do you think?
Dealer selling price: $22,112
Destination: $670
Dealer processing fee of $99
wheel lock $89
splash guards $189
pin stripe $89
Sales Tax - $1495
MD Reg&Tax%Tag: $222
OTD Price: $24,865
Have questions: what's dealer processing fee? it seems that the tax also include the destination and processing fee. is that correct ?
Thanks !
If that is a 3rd party warranty, I would not even think about it. If it's not honda care, dealers frown upon it. Go into the dealers at the end of the month, and offer $22,500 with no ext. warranty, and see what they say.
BTW, The dealer is heritage Honda in Baltimore, MD.
You might not get $22,500..but at the end of the month I would think you are going to get a price lower than you already have.
Does the invoice include destination fee ? the offered price include destination fee $670 and processing fee $99, if subtract them, the fee is 24130. I don't know which on should I use to compare with invoice fee (24822)? 24130 ro 24899 ?
Sorry...$24,822 includes destination.
will it be a good deal if I get the same price ($24800) for the CRV EX AWD w/ $500 coupon? I was told that the car will have a mud guard and paint strip. They don't have any car w/ no accessory.
Thanks!
In dealer A, we were approved with 3.9% apr and we gave a downpayment of $1000. When we signed the contract, I was the primary owner and my brother was the co-signer. After 3 days, dealer A told us that our contract is null and void because of my issue of residency here in US. They are requiring us to re-sign the contract, with my brother as the primary owner and me as a co-signer. By doing so, American Honda (the financial company providing funds to buyers) will honor the contract and release the money to dealer A.
Before we can drive back to Dealer A to resign the contract, Dealer B gave as a quote lower than the OTD price that Dealer A gave to us. Dealer B can beat the OTD price of Dealer A with same model, same year, and with ADDITIONAL accessories.
Since our contract with Dealer A was null and void, we used the quote given to us by dealer B to re-negotiate to dealer A. We said that if they can match the price including the accessories quoted to us by Dealer B, we will re-sign the contract. But dealer A turned down our request and they said that there is no way that they can beat the price of Dealer B.
Dealer A tried to convince us that they already loss $750 from the OTD price that they gave to us and that the price they gave to us was the possible lowest price that they can give. Since, they did not want to lower the price, we just decided to return the CRV to them. When we request for the refund of our down payment, the sales manager told us that we need to pay them for the use of their CRV.
The following are the breakdown of the "use" of CRV
Fuel: 15 gallons x $2.50 = $37.50
Mileage: 459 miles x 0.20 = $ 91.80
Delivery Detail: $154.00
Restocking fee: $58.00
Total: $341.30
We used a credit card to pay the down payment worth $1000. This down payment was already cleared from my credit card.(it has been 8 days since the transaction happened). They told us that they will deduct $341.30 from our down payment, and we will only receive a refund of $658.70 after a month.
Now, even if I will add $341.30 from the OTD price offered by Dealer B, OTD of dealer A was still higher.
We decided to ask a breakdown of the "USE" of the CRV, signed by the manager in order to have a proof regarding their reason of non-refunding of the total amount of down payment that we gave to them
Question: 1. Is the action of Dealer A appropriate?
2. Can we still dispute the down payment to my credit card company?
3. Can we still get a full refund from our down payment.
4. Any advice will be appreciated
They released the vehicle to you, without having secured financing for it. You have the vehicle, all they have is your $1000.
Ask them for the full refund, and you will return the vehicle, otherwise, you keep the vehicle and they can shove the $1000 up their....
Simply turn the tables on them. They have a lot more to lose than you. Although you are risking them calling cops and claiming that you stole the car. All you will have to do is file a claim that they stole your deposit.
Alternativley, you can return the vehicle and then file a claim with the credit card. Explain to them what you explained here, and they may reverse the charges.
Good luck.
Why do you have to wait 30 day's for whatever amount of refund you will get back? They should refund a credit to your cc account immediately, once you return the car. You can dispute anything they did not return, to the cc company. They will let you know if they can get your money back, Your situation is very strange, so I have no idea what the outcome would be. Please keep us informed on how you are making out, and good luck!
I am interested in an '09 CR-V AWD w/ the navigation system. A dealer has agreed to sell it to me for $27000, including the $670 destination charge. I think that $26000 is more reasonable. Do I have the bargaining power to get it? I am in Rochester, NY.
Thanks for your help.
Betsy