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Suzuki Aerio Maintenance and Repair



  • If this has happened over three times and the car has less than 12 thousand miles I would imagine that the Lemon law would be in order. In Illinois after you have started the process the company has one last shot to fix it then you get a new car or money back. The Fifth gear problem is talked about on the European sites. I had hoped that Suzuki had beefed up the manual for U.S. models but it doesn't look like it. This seems to be the only real problem they talk about. engines seem to be very strong.
  • Owners book says, oil change every 7,500 miles. Dealer put sticker on car to change oil at 3,000 miles after my 1st oil change. Did he use wrong oil or is manual wrong ? I really like my aerio wagon , want to keep it in good running order.
  • carthellcarthell Posts: 128
    The oil change interval is dependent on your driving style, per the Suzuki manual. Take a look at the recommended maintenance portions of the manual, and see which interval fits your situation.

    I do not have the impression that Suzuki did very much research in the type of oil change interval that should apply to their engines. A 3k mile interval seems to be a standard industry figure applied to many types of car engines, regardless of manufacturer. Nissan, for example, seems to break the mold by recommending an oil change on their current Sentras every ~4k miles ("severe" service).

  • I've had my 2004 Aerio SX AWD for about 2 weeks. So far, I love the car but I do have one complaint. When I go over bumps, I can hear a subtle clunk coming from the front end. It's not that loud, but it's there. Sometimes I can also feel the clunk throught the floorboards. Has anyone else noticed this? Is this a normal occurance with the Aerio suspension or should I bring the car in to the dealer to have it checked out?
  • generaltso, if you are not happy with the clunk type noise,by as means take it in and have it looked at. I have a 2003 SX with 21000km. I have no clunking issues at all.
  • I think I'll have it checked out. From what I can tell, nobody else has noticed this problem with their Aerio, so I'm thinking something's not right with mine. Thanks!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Turn of your CAPS LOCK key.
  • Bigfrog,who the heck fed you that info. I belong to an Aerio owner group. Many members have put on bigger wheels. some up to 17". Some have gone to a taller tire with the shock rims. The only thing put out is the speedo,which will have to 100% of every car and truck out there. The AWD will be affected if you only change two wheels. The trans shift,very slightly. Not enough that you would notice on dat to day driveing. The A/C cannot possibly be affected. Many members have even put on an under drive pulley for the crank and the a/c is fine. How do you think the a/c could possibly be affected? Do you think the a/c turns off when the car is sitting and idleing?
  • Well bigfrog you may work for suzuki and have all that info in that big book of yours. But sorry dude I have the facts and have seen the cars. Heres a couple to check out.
  • The facts are wheel speed affects a/c on suzuki aero.

    All you have showed me is a picture of a car with rims and a bodey kit. So this means what you can buy accessories. Well glad to see your credit card works.

    Here dave why don't you try something a test.
    Hook up a scan tool to your aerio and view the data stream for the a/c, fan speed, rpm, wheel speed, a/c center vent temp, a/c thermoster temp or if this is to complicated for you just record the whole data stream.

    Drive the car how ever it is you normaly drive and record the date stream.

    One time with factory wheels and one time with your a different diameter wheel and see for your self.

    If you can't read the data stream foward me a copey i will teach you then you will have all the facts.

    Unless your scared to be proven incorrect Dave.
    But I am sure you know exactly what your talking about you belong to a message board and type there every day .I only cash my suzuki pay check every week.
  • Bigfrog,
    Could you give us a technical explanation as to why wheel speed is such a big deal on the Aerio? Merely saying that you work for Suzuki does not prove your point.
    Like David has said, there are TONS of Aerio owners with aftermarket wheels/tires that are much larger than the stock 195/55/15's and there have been no problems reported. Regardless of what the technical specs may suggest, the empirical evidence indicates that there is no problem whatsoever and that's what matters--real world, in situ evidence.
    Sure, a larger rolling diameter will slow most everything down for a given vehicle speed, but only by a small percentage and unless the Aerio is designed to operate correctly only in an extremely narrow range of conditions (and that's the exact opposite of modern car design/engineering philosophy), I just don't see where the problem is. It's not as though you can really substantially change the wheel diameter anyway--there's just not THAT huge a difference between a 195/55/15 and, say, a 215/40/18 tire (which is about as big as can be reliably fitted on an Aerio). The difference in circumference between these two tires is less than 6%. If a change that small could really screw up the Aerio, then Suzuki has some serious engineering problems to deal with.
  • I didnt want this to be personal,but you chose to make it so. Perhaps you should take some of that money that suzuki gives you every two weeks, and get on the short bus to school. They can teach you how to spell.
    vechile X
    normaly X
    modle X
    haveing X
    don X
    belive X
    maybey X
    techinal X
    buddey X
    bodey X
    copey X
    need I go on? Here are some more pics. Scroll down to the white AERIO. It is sponsored by Suzuki. and it is running 16" wheels.
    But again,what do I know. Just REAL world driving. I'm sure Suzuki would love to know an employee of theirs is kind of a jerk to the customer. I was just pointing out the FACT that you can run different rims and tires. And you have to attack me like I'm clueless.
  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    no personal insults, no baiting people into online fights. Constructive and productive discussions work, baiting doesn't.
  • I did not attack you attacked me rember the frist few lines of post #40 (Bigfrog,who the heck fed you that info. I belong to an Aerio owner group.)I never said you could not run different size rims and tires on aerio. I just wanted to point that this change will affect aerio more than lets say a civic or subaru or matrix,or any other cheap car kids put 5000 doller wheels on. I never said it would not run or that nothing would work. I offered you the techinal info pages on this it is in a book for the cost of eighty dollers or go read it at your local dealer if thay will let you. I also gave you a test to do. Did you do it???
  • you both asked me to prove my claim i gave dave a test he did not perform jason you can also try the test if you like it is in post #43. This test would have proved what i have been posting. If you would like to read it from the service manual please vist you can buy you self a service manual or stop buy your local dealer and see if thay will let you read one. I am not going to wast any more time on this issue I teach enough actual mechanics every day.
  • I have both volumes of the 2003 Aerio factory service manual at home on a bookshelf in my office, so please give me a page that explains why wheel speed is so important. I understand how bigger wheels could affect the A/C, since for a given vehicle speed the engine is turning slower, but so what? The Aerio's A/C is too aggressive anyway. I actually bought an underdrive pulley to slow the A/C compressor down, because it blows too cold and sucks up too much power from the engine.
    That being said, please elaborate on what else is dependent on wheel speed. My Aerio is a 5-speed manual FWD, so I don't know much about the auto's or AWD's, but I'm still curious as to how they could be affected. I'm not flaming you or trying to give you a hard time. I really am just curious, since I get asked a lot of technical questions and I'm always looking for more information to share.
  • Hi jason I will look in to those pages after the new year. You will probley find info on it in the diagnostic section. If you read in the ac section you will find the reason for the super cold ac on aerio. It is due to the pre cooler. If you look at it there is the big condenser then a very small one under it. Most people think it is a trans or ps cooler. But if you look in your service manual it is a ac pre cooler. It works very well. I will actualy try to get a copey of the tech schooling notes that is realy where wheel speed is best explained.I can not post it on line do to legal reasons but I can mail it to you. Let me see if I can get my hands on it.
  • I have 60 series tires on my AWD and the car looks awesome! Much better proportions than the factory set. Not to mention that tires are much cheaper at that price.

    Sure the speedometer is supposed to be off by a mile and half or whatever, but I have not noticed any difference. I've driven by several streetside radar speed signs (mulitple times just to check this) and also with those supposed accurate permanant highway speed zones signs. There is no noticible difference in posted speed and what my speedometer says.

    There might be a difference if I check it with a GPS unit, but honestly we're not talkin 10-12 miles per hour. You always get a few miles an hour leway when dealing with speed zones and traffic cops anyway.

    My A/C is still cold and works just fine... I even have an Underdrive pully installed

    Plus, I hear that there is a speedo flash kit in the works for us anyway, so not to worry if you think this is a life or death situation. (which it's not)

    OBTW, my ABS works like a champ still!
  • This is not a life or death situation. I don't even know if I ever want to post info in this board. I just thought other people into these cars would like to know this little unknown fact. I know thats why I search these boards,sometimes you can find a whole bunch of people who have the same problem as your one customer. Or one person with a big problem no one can fix that you have the answer to.

    That is what I thought these boards were for!
  • I didn't know about the precooler on the A/C system, since I haven't spent much time under the Aerio yet, except for oil changes and installing the underdrive pulley. It does explain why the Aerio's air conditioning is so cold, though. I wonder if they did it that way for the tropical markets that the Aerio gets sold in?
    Anyway, thanks for the info--now I'll know why I'm shivering in August.
  • jclifjclif Posts: 3
    Appreciate reading about everyone's experiences with the Aerio SX. Have about 11K on my 2003 and am mostly happy. Don't like the rattling, though, from a couple of the windows and also the brake clunks. Have lost 2 of the stock tires from sidewall punctures - too expensive to replace so am now putting Yoko AVS ES 100's on for almost half the cost of the OE tires.

    Agree about the A/C seeming to suck a lot of power - how would I go about getting the underdrive pulley / how expensive ??

    Had a run-in with a blown tire from a semi which ripped out the driver's side 'slide out' portion of the air dam and also cracked it in a couple of places - any suggestions other than full replacement of the dam?

    Again, thanks for the information and comments everyone.
  • The underdrive pulley is a custom made from a guy in cali. Does real quailty work. Open your e-mail address in your profile and I can send you some info.
  • junglegirljunglegirl Posts: 1
    The detachable piece of my front bumper (which prevents damage when towed) dislodged after I hit a deep pothole two months ago. I was able to reinsert it, but it started coming loose again and eventually fell off while I was driving. I recovered the piece, but am not sure that it is salvageable because it is bent out of shape and badly scratched. Has anybody else had trouble with this piece? Is this expensive to replace? Any suggestions?
  • pml27pml27 Posts: 4
    I've posted this in the regular Aerio SX owners forum as well, but haven't really spoken w/ anyone that has the same issue or solution.

    Any suggestions are appreciated:

    I have an Automatic 2002 Aerio SX w/ 41k on it, and I have had an ongoing issue w/ my 'service engine soon' light. Occasionally the light will come on and my car will not shift properly. It will start off in what feels like 3rd or 4th gear, and I will have to manually shift from 1st to Drive to get any power. Eventually the car will begin to shift on it's own.

    I have had 2 input speed sensors replaced and a TCM but it still does this.

    Also my 'service engine soon' light doesn't always stay on, and due to the design of the Aerio, I was told no codes are stored in the computer once the light goes off. (I am a computer programmer and this makes absolutely no sense to me, but that is besides the point. It must be a way to keep them from having to fix cars.) So needless to say, many times I've taken my car into the dealer and they find nothing, and tell me to come back when the light is on. This usually happens for me after work and they are closed, and once I park my car for the night it cools and the light goes out.

    I notice the problem mostly in early evening after a cool morning and the car has sat in the sun all day while I'm at work. It has happened after the car was warmed up as well, while I'm driving it. I noticed on later models there is talk of an engine cool light and shifting issues, but my '02 doesn't have that light, only the temperature guage lights etc...

    My dealer has been unable to solve for 2 years now. Any suggestions?
  • lugsterlugster Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Aerio Sedan, manual transmission. I have also had a rattling in the right dash?/door? I was planning on taking everything out of my glove box and driving it to see if it still ocurred.

    Also had brake noise at slow stops --> told the dealer and they said there was a bulletin for it and they put clamps on the calipers (no charge). So far, no more problems.

    The major problems we have had are with the transmission. It was 6 months old when out of no where it starting slamming/grinding when put in 2nd gear. Brought it in to service--they were going to replace the transmission, california sent the wrong transmission 3 times! Service dept. decided to replace 2nd & 3rd gears and parts associated with it instead. Did that, and car was shifting very poorly. 3rd was stiff, overall felt like car was 10 years old.

     Brought car back in, replaced transmission assembly. On way home from picking car up---5th gear on highway made a "waw-waw-waw" noise. Only happens on highway, only 5th gear. Service manager drove the car, called the sound "droning" and said he would have the suzuki representative drive it to see if it was normal for suzukis to do that. I told him we did not hear it or have any problems for 1st 6 months of driving car. He said the rep. would be here in 1-2 weeks and he left a voicemail with him. He also said he would call us when he knew what day we could bring the car in for the rep. to drive it. That was March 30th, 2004. We still have not heard from anyone!!!! It's now the end of June!! It's been 3 months!!!

    I am documenting all of the problems we've had with the car and the poor service and mailing it to corporate. Before now, we have called the Suzuki Customer Relations Phone number in the warranty manual and complained a few times about the first issues and the service dept.--they don't seem to care. when we have the 1st problewms w/ 2nd gear slamming--the service manager told us to keep driving the car skipping from 1st gear to 3rd while we waited 3 weeks for the trans. assem. to arrive (he said we were replacing it anyway!)
  • galvanizegalvanize Posts: 3
    I'm a little late joining this discussion, and you've probably fixed your clunk by now. However if you haven't, I might be able to help. I own a 2004 manual trans Aerio sedan. I too was experiencing the "clunk" going over bumps, from the front of the car.

    The first mechanic didn't admit it was a problem, and basically insulted my blondeness, but another mechanic at the same dealership, when I brought the car in for an oil change, fixed the problem without me having to ask.......said the "swaybar" was loose and he tightened it. Since then I haven't heard or felt the clunk.!!
  • galvanizegalvanize Posts: 3
    I own a 2004 manual trans Aerio Sedan and have been experiencing a rattling sound associated with acceleration.

    Dealership has basically told me "they have spent enough time on the car", and they can't find the problem.
    The rattling seems to happen when you hit the accelerator, and it is a quick annoying loud noise (sounds like something loose). I do use high octane gas, as I was told this could be the infamous "ping", but the car still rattles.

    The noise reminds me of my old toyota tecel, when the valves went-- the embarassing noise being one reason I got rid of it----- now my brand new car sounds like this! Yikes!!

    Other then handing the keys over to the dealership and saying "keep it till you fix it", does anyone else have this problem or could lend some insight into some possible solutions?

  • I've done some searching of the message boards, but haven't seen any mention of this problem.

    My car (automatic, 4WD) all of a sudden one evening in late May 2004 started being extremely sluggish. It felt like I was driving with the brakes on. I checked the emergency brake, but it wasn't on. The car made horrid groaning noises and didn't want to accelerate. When I removed my foot from the gas, the car came to a rather quick stop, without me pressing on the brake pedal. Putting the car in reverse, it did the same thing. Acceleration was almost impossible. There was a nasty burning smell as well. Also the brake pedal was very stiff and wouldn't go down very far. The car at this point had almost 15,000 miles on it.

    I ended up having it towed the next day when the problem recurred as it just wasn't drivable. It (of course) didn't perform this problem for the mechanic the next day, but after I described the problem, they ended up bleeding off some of hydraulic pressure. The exact description on my receipt is as follows:

    A cust states the brakes are sticking.
    Cause: Brake pedal rod is mis-adjusted causing hard brake pedal and restricting vehicle movement. Adjust brake pedal rod and retest (OK)

    I didn't have any more problems until last night (August 8th). Did the exact same thing. I was fairly close to home, so limped there with my hazard lights on, cringing all the way. I got home, pulled in the garage and got out of the car only to notice smoke coming from the right front wheel. Got back in the car and moved it from the garage to the driveway. The wheel (not tire) was still smoking. Horrible smell as well. As far as I can tell, the brakes are sticking again. The brake pedal was also hard again.

    Drove it to the dealer this a.m. with no problems. Got an appointment for Thursday. Not sure how I'm going to make the car misbehave for the mechanic. It currently has about 17,000 miles.

    Has anyone had similar problems? This seems to be way more than the brake clunking problem that was much discussed. I've already had the rear differential replaced at about 10,000 miles. I'm not very happy with this car right now!


  • I do not have ABS brakes.

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