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Yokohama sells a T-rated version of the tire in the same size & profile with a better treadwear and (dry) traction rating, and deeper sipes than the OEM provides (from what I remember). I hatched a plan to buy the tires online & have a local big box retailer install 'em.
After I put my order in, I was contacted by the online tire dealer and essentially asked whether I knew what I was doing, which is wierd. Most of the auto services I've ever interacted with try to *sell* me stuff rather than ask *me* whether what I wanted was appropriate for my vehicle. I hit 'em with my driving habits, and comparison data I was able to pull about the OEM and new tires that I wanted, and they shipped the tires.
Went to the big box retailer, and was flatly refused service because of the speed rating of the new tires. The counter person gave me a speech about liability issues. "Okay," I said. I decided then to not waste gas going to another big box site run by the same corporatiion. Thoughts like, Do I secretly own a Ferrari? and What, do T-rated tires on compacts explode/self destruct/(insert something bad) these days? ran through my mind.
Went to three other places in my local area. Two of the shops were too busy to do anything for me, and the third had me sign something special before putting my tires on.
I had projected a savings of around $50 off the total purchase price against the best I could do locally, If I had my way. After I was done, I think I spent more to complete the replacement: all of the projected savings plus $10.
I've put on about 800 miles since the purchase, and I noticed no difference in the handling or driveability of my vehicle.
Has anyone else experienced such difficulties with replacing your 15-inchers?
I'm now driving a Malibu Maxx with about 70% more horsepower but it has lower rated tires. Although the oem Bridgestones look bad on paper they're much better than the Michelins.
Personally I think Hyundai bought the Energies because they sound like high end tires. They probably pay about $10 per tire. Michelin gets to slock off mediocre tires that will cost $140 per tire if you're unlucky to tear one up or dumb enough to replace with the same tires.
I think the Hyundai would have done just fine with lesser rated but longer wearing tires, however once a car is blessed with H rated rubber it's mighty hard to get someone to send you something rated slower.
I think you made the right decision on tires.
Good luck with your problems, I cut my loss when I have a car like yours and bail out. I have had to do this a number of times with other car companies.
First and foremost, is the fuel gauge. It is totally random. Some times it will go from full to 2 clicks down from full in only 50 kms, and then back up to full again, and then down one.
I have gotten as much as 150 kms before it went from full to one click under.
I brought it back to to dealer when it was under warranty, and they changed the fuel sensor in the tank, but it got worse.
Highway driving in get about 600 kms to the 50 liter tank, but in town, i barely get 400.
I got a K&N air filter for the car, and it really did wonders for power and gas milage, if just replacing the oem with a K&N did that much, i would recommend to install a cold air intake.
ONe question though, is the a/c supposed to turn on when the heater selector is set to front window defrost and floor/front window defrost.
I mean, in my friends CRV, when you put that option on, the a/c turns on, but you can turn it off.
This really sucks, and can maybe explain why the car gets such bad gas milage in the winter, because i have it on all the time!
As well, the headlights seem to have condensation in them all the time,
What is a Underdrive pully , and what dose it do?
One other thing, i have about 120 000 kms on it and i just changed to synthetic oil...
WOW>... DO IT :surprise:
The gas mileage in the winter with defrost on in my '03 SX is comparable to a 2001 Sentra I once owned (21-22 mpg city). But then, I can't tell whether the car or the fuel is an influence or not (After Katrina, my mpg number went up for a while).
Condensation within your headlights would seemingly indicate a leak. I'd have someone look at that before the moisture blows out your lamp.
"Underdrive pulley" - looked up the term via the 'net; is appears to be an aftermarket crankshaft pulley that could produce more power and reduce the RPM of the engine. The performance gains appear to be from the lighter weight (and larger size?) of the aftermarket pulley. Good luck with your upgrade project. (Don't ask me for any suggestions because I tend to break things I can't fix!)
Unrelated: took my car to the dealer today for scheduled service, plus a review of a few problems: squeaky (like fingernails over a blackboard!) rear wiper motor, condensation from the A/C spilling into my passenger-side footwell area, and annoying, loud clunking noises from my car's suspension when driving on any street not perfectly paved. Sometimes, I feel like I'm driving a decade-old Crown Vic cab!
Despite the problems, I miss my car. I'll have to "bus" around town until Saturday morning.
-New wiper motot on order.
-A/C drain unclogged.
-Bolts on my right passenger side's control arm was tightened.
I CANNOT FIND THE SUBWOOFER THAT I AM SUPPOSED TO BE ABLE TO ADJUST. WHERE SHOULD I LOOK??
MY VEHICLE WAS DELIVERED WITHOUT A CHROME TAIL PIPE TIP THAT IS SHOWN IN EVERY PHOTO FROM SUZUKI THAT SHOWS THE REAR END OF THE SX FOR 2006.
ON PAGE 14-3 OF MY OWNERS MANUAL IT HAS A LIST OF LIGHTBULBS USED ON THIS VEHICLE. ONLY 5 LIGHTBULBS ARE LISTED....IT SHOWS 2 DIFFERENT RATINGS FOR FOGLIGHTS..TYPE A AND TYPE B...HOW CAN I TELL WHICH ONES THIS VEHICLE HAS?
MY VEHICLE WAS SUPPLIED WITHOUT ANY BRACKET OR HARDWARE TO INSTALL A FRONT LICENSE PLATE...IS THIS NORMAL.
MY DEALER JUST DOUBLE TALKS EVERY TIME AN ISSUE ARISES AND THE SUZUKI CUSTOMER ASSISTANCE ISN`T A WHOLE LOT BETTER.
ALSO: WHEN I FLIP UP MY REAR SEAT CUSHIONS TO DROP THE BACK OF THE BACK SEAT DOWN, I NOTICED A VERY SHORT STRAP WITH A BUCKLE ON THE END TUCKED ON THE BOTTOM OF THE SEAT CUSHION.
I SEARCHED MY MANUAL BUT MUST HAVE MISSED THAT PAGE. WHAT IS THE STRAP FOR?
THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR ANY INPUT. :confuse:
SLICK10 IN PENNSYLVANIA
I sometimes experience rough idling from a cold start-up, but it hasn't resulted in the mpg figure that you achieved. A number of people who have posted to this forum have experienced the same symptom. I haven't seen any information on a possible fix, if any.
I've heard alot of neg things on this site about Suzuki reps, but this particular dealer and service have been fantastic! I have never been treated better from anyone car related then the response I am getting at Puyallup Nissan Suzuki in Puyallup, WA. And everything is covered under my 3/36 factory warr. Not costing me a penny. So far this sounds like a few minor factory adjustments, I hope the car turns out to be as good as the general reviews I found online.
I substituted my tires' max pressures for the car's. Whoops.
Could anyone tell me what the cause might be?
Where are the Sylvania Silver Type H11 available at?
My service manual states that you have to take off the front bumper to do this.
Otherwise, Sylvania's own web site seems to indicate the Aerio switched from a H11 to a H8 bulb for MY 2005. The H11 ate a recommended 55 watts. The H8 is on a diet at 35 watts.
-Suspension rattling. Some bolts in the suspension were tightened up. No problems since. No charge.
-Initial problems with car not starting up quickly after sitting for 24 hours or more. Was adjusted once, no problems since. No charge.
-Rotor warp, twice (between 20 - 30,000 miles). Paid $200 for each fix, rotors aren't covered by the car's warranty.
-For me, fuel usage is worse than a 2001 Sentra I owned (consistent 26 mpg vs. 21-25 mpg); most of my driving is in the city. Fuel efficiency climbs to 27-30 mpg on long trips.
-The skirts at the bottom of the doors are something to watch (replaced front door skirts once under warranty). Tell you daughter to be aware of how she and her passengers opens her doors near curbs.
-Took the car to the dealership for routine maintenance, so my costs would be higher than many others. On the other hand, there are service intervals (starting @ 3,000 miles, and continuting about every 6k from that point) where only an oil change and inspection of certain items are needed.
-If you are unfortunate enough to have V-rated tires, have your daughter put aside money to replace all four. I'm no "track-a-holic," but I managed to wear my tires out within about 2 years/30,000 miles of use. (Yokohama 195/55 R15.) Picked the same-sized tires with a longer wear rating and a lower speed rating. Had some trouble getting 'em installed because of various installer policies.
-AWD is nice in wet or slick situations, but if you're counting on the car to plow though deep snow, forget it. The car doesn't have the ground clearance.
I have just bought the car and only had a couple of hundreds miles on the car. and I blew out a sidewall. I called Yokohama and they were Very Nice and air freighted me a new tire from "Tirerack" and it arrived the next day from the East coast all the way over to Hawaii. They even paid for the shipping that was almost as much as the tire for overnight delivery. My hats off the Yokohama for the Excellent customer service. Also "55" profile tires are kind of hard to find. For some reason they equipped the car with "V" rated tires, so does mean it can Actually hit 150 mph ? The Tirerack has some "Kuhmo" brand tire from Korea that have gotten a pretty good rating