Suzuki Aerio Maintenance and Repair

cknslscknsls Member Posts: 7
We just purchased an Aerio for my teenage son. We all just love the car. It is the base sedan with 5-spd. There is one problem we did not notice on the test drive. It seems that when the front windshield was made, there is a slight "wavy pattern" that you can see. While it does not inhibit your vision, it is a little irritating. Has any one else had this?


  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    with defects in the windshield.

    I recommend taking it to te dealer for replacement - it should be perfect, not wavy.
  • gregoriusmgregoriusm Member Posts: 61
    Yes. Definitely get it replaced!
  • jontyreesjontyrees Member Posts: 160
    Here are the problems I've seen mentioned most often:

    Rattle/Buzz in the doors - this seems almost universal and is pretty annoying. I have it in mine. Apparently fixable under warranty by having the dealer reglue some insulation in the door.

    Brake Clunk at first stop after car has been stationary for a while, or after shifting into reverse. I haven't noticed this one, but it is also fixable under warranty with the replacement of a clip in the brakes

    DRL circuit causing noise in stereo - mine was so bad, I disabled the DRLs by bending a little tab back on the handbrake mechanism, (the DRLs turn off when you apply the handbrake, this fix fools the circuit into thinking the handbrake is on all the time). Another one that the dealer should fix by replacing the DRL module.

    Flimsy hardware for cargo cover. Apparently the hinges and catches break, but I never use the cover so I can't comment.

    Overall my '02 SX has been just fine so far. Got to get the door buzz fixed, though.
  • cknslscknsls Member Posts: 7
    I took the car back to the dealer for the windshield defect. I was told by the dealer that they had an earlier complaint from a lady on the same issue. To review, there are "clear lines" that are running through the windshield, they do not obstruct your vision, but are distracting. I was told by the dealer that the regional rep from Suzuki came out and would not acknowledge the "problem". Mind you, on the internet-the price on this windshield is $400.00. I would think that since Suzuki has such a small market share-and is trying to make a name for the company, they would go out of the way to solve an issue like this. I am in sales myself, and you do not win friends with this attitude. I left a message with Suzuki Corporate today, we will see if they call me back. Even though the quality of the car is good, unless they resolve my complaint, I will let everyone know that they do not stand behind their product! Suzuki--are you listening?
  • rogertc1rogertc1 Member Posts: 66
    Having worked with manufactures I know the costs of windshields. No where near the $400 . More closer to $75.00 The new glass as compared to glass 10 years ago is much thiner.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    This topic has been re-activated upon request.
  • davidd5davidd5 Member Posts: 79
    As for the lamp concern. Just because they say its on back order,does not mean there is a problem with the part. What could be happening is that there has never been a request for such a part and the depot does not stock it. Have you gone back to the dealer about this? There are times that a part can get lost in the ordering and never does get ordered. But I do think they should have replaced the whole light assembly. That they should have stock of. As for the oil usage,4000 miles is quite a lot between oil changes. Did you check the oil hot and after it had sat for about a minute? I know some people check there oil at differant times[cold engine,hot engine]. If the engine was cold and you just started for eg. and then said "Oh I better check my oil" And shut the engine down.It can take 1/2 an hour for the oil to come back and give you a proper reading. In the mean time you may think it's low and add oil. If ti was a leak of that size, you would see it on your driveway. A leak to get onto the clutch disc has to be MAJOR.That bucking you describe sounds to be normal with a lot of manual transaxles in first gear. My does it to. But so do most of the cars I work on.{I'm a tech at a CHRYSLER dealer.Have been for the last 15 years.} Go and try some other cars. I'm sure you will feel it,if it's what I think you are talking about. Let me know.
  • davidd5davidd5 Member Posts: 79
    ingtonge18. I reread your post. You said you have followed up twice on the lamp. So yes I too would demand they REPLACE the WHOLE LAMP, or take the seal off a stock unit.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Thanks for the reply. I guess someone actually cares to listen to me and answer my questions. The forum host informed me other Aerio owners have complained about the # of negative posts in the forum. Well, gee, sorry if I want to inform others of the multiple problems I'm having or try and get some feedback. Anywho, the bucking I'm describing is not normal at all. I will try to explain it a little further and see what you think.
    Here goes: It seems to happen most noticeably in the mornings after sitting overnight. It did it again this morning most of the way to work. This time it started out a bit differently. I was cruising along in 5th gear doing 55 mph. All of a sudden I felt a slight shudder and noticed the car lost power slightly and it started to loose speed, so I pressed down on the gas a little to keep my speed constant and the car jerked and bucked a little than accelerated fine. It felt almost like the clutch literally disconnected or slipped for a short time and then reengaged. After I came to a full stop and tried to restart in 1st gear, the clutch engaged 1st gear normally but than suddenly grabbed after my foot was already off the pedal as if I popped the clutch without my foot on the gas and subsequently literally throws me forward in a large bucking manuever as if I slammed on the brakes, and the car almost stalls. It will do this no matter how much care I take in engaging the clutch as smoothly and slowly as possible. The bucking/jerking I have been describing in earlier posts occurs after the clutch has already been engaged and I'm simply trying to accelerate to keep up with traffic. That's why I'm beginning to think the clutch is literally slipping and reengaging, thus causing all the herky jerky motions. The car even stalled on me abruptly on a small hill over the weekend even with lots of gas and careful engaging of the clutch. I have driven a stick since I was 15 and have had many cars and realize sticks will buck when you try to alternate between accelerating and decelerating in 1st gear, but this car does it in any gear. The thing that really bugs me is the fact I can't make the problem go away by engaging the clutch in a different manner. And than the really irksome part is the fact the clutch doesn't always act up like this.

    Does this sound like a slipping clutch to you, or is it possible air is in the hydraulic lines or maybe the clutch plate is simply weak? Any ideas would be helpful although I may just try to get out of the car completely and save myself the stress. Thanks for any insight.
  • davidd5davidd5 Member Posts: 79
    Ok ingtonge18,thats a better descripion. You are right,that is NOT normal. As for being a clutch problem, it doesn't seem like that would be it. I'm thinking maybe a poor connection it the wireing harness. How often does it do it? Lets say if someone from the service dept. took it home one night,would it do it. Another thing to check into, is if suzuki has what is called a "co-pilot" {Thats what Chyrsler calls theres} How does it work? You have it plugged into the diag connector. You then drive as you would normally drive. When the car acts up,everything is than recorded as to what switch was doing what,what sensor was reading what. We use it for cars that act up very intermitantly. You do have me thinking that maybe mine acted up like yours once. A couple of weeks ago, I was driveing down the highway. Just started going up a hill,and the cruise control kicked out. I thought for a second the engine died. Scared the hell out of me. But then I thought I must of hit the switch with my knee. I was sure I didn't but what else could it be? But now with what you are talking about,I wonder? Has never done it since.
  • davidd5davidd5 Member Posts: 79
    Just wondering if anybody has noticed the paint on the frt bumper chipping from rocks? Mine only has 7200km on it. Was able to give a good wash today at home for the first time, and I noticed all these very tiny chips in the paint. Was not the first time washed. Have to use the coin washes in the winter. Generally there you don't have time to really take a good look.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    My bumper has a few small nicks but so far it is doing alright. The hood however has a big nick right at the front edge above the grille. It was large enough to go all the way down to the bare metal and start rusting.

    As for how often my bucking/surging/jerking problem occurs, it is very intermittent. It seems to do it about once a week and only in the morning on the way to work. So it is impossible for me to replicate it for the dealer. I wouldn't be so disappointed if I could just get the problem fixed and move on!
  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    This mean, you can now access this discussion from either the Maintenance & Repair or Hatchbacks Message board. Hope this is helpful. ;-)

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
  • davidd5davidd5 Member Posts: 79
    This is more for the owners in Canada. Have any of you had the "check eng" light come on after the car has sat for about 2 hours in -25. I had it happen twice this winter. Suzuki says there is a temp sensor in the fuel tank that is confusing the temp sensor on the engine. Being the fuel is ice cold and the eng is still warm.They clear the code but I dont like having to go back for that.
  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    If this only happens when the temp lowers to -25, the code may clear itself after a few drive cycles, that is, once the temperature warms up. You can also reset the check eng light yourself by disconnecting your negative battery cable and reconnecting it after 30 secs or so. This should clear any codes the computer has stored. If the problem is still there (temp is still below -25), the light will trigger again after a few drive cycles.

    Just curious, have you asked whether there's an actual fix, so this doesn't keep happening when the temp drops? Of course, if it's not a common problem..., they may not feel it's necessary to fix or upgrade. My 2 cents. Other here may have more to add....

    You may also want to solicit feedback from members in our Check Engine Light discussion. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your situation.

    Host/Hatchbacks & Wagons
  • davidd5davidd5 Member Posts: 79
    Revka, Im a tech at a chrysler store,have been for the last 15 years[Yea I bought a 'zuki. Just love it} I have tried to clear the code that way,but its a "hard" code that must be cleared with the scanner. I think OBD was somthing to do with it. Most of the chrysler codes are set this way. Disconnecting the battery will not clear the code. Suzuki is aware of it, because when I called to make an appointment of the "chek eng" light,they knew right away on the phone what the problem was. Told just to stop by anytime and they will clear it. Just wondering how many others this has happened to.
  • redsirredsir Member Posts: 34
    Just got our 2003 AWD Fastback(white),and we are very satisfied. Chose it over Matrix and Elantra GT.

    My concern is a drive line vibration that comes and goes. It is more pronounced when cold. The vibration can be felt through the seat mostly.

    Any thoughts or insights would be helpful.

    Also, our CD player does not have the six disc in dash changer. Is this a U.S. spec feature only?
  • davidd5davidd5 Member Posts: 79
    Read on another web site about a vibration with an awd. Turned out to be the rear drive shaft. Take the dealer a long time to find, The guy,I believe,had to get suzuki involved. All worked out in the end. This could be your problem too. The 6 in dash cd player in a US spec only.
  • commuter100commuter100 Member Posts: 6
    I just took my new Aerio in for its first oil change at 3,000 miles and when the mechanic (ASE Certified Goodyear Tire and Auto) tried to remove the oil filter he broke a tool, and when he finally got the filter out, the threaded stub came out of the engine block with. After calling the Suzuki Service Department and discussing it, the Goodyear mechanic also removed the stub (stud?) from the filter and found the damage from the filter being forced on. I was present and involved for everything that transpired. This damage was done at the factory in Japan I assume since I bought the car with under 100 miles on it.

    Has anyone ever heard of a Suzuki with this problem? The mechanic and the Suzuki service department both admitted this happens very infrequently.
  • davidd5davidd5 Member Posts: 79
    I've worked at the dealer level service for 20 years,and that would be the first time I have heard of that. The factories do always put the filter on very tight,but I have never had a problem getting them off.
  • stshepardstshepard Member Posts: 12
    I'm late to this post, but the car bucking problem is very unlikely to be the clutch, it is most likely a fuel delivery problem or an ignition problem this is something you should take to the dealer and let them drive it and research it until they discover the problem, I say this because the car could fail on you at a really poor time. Anyone who's ever driven a slipping clutch knows how it feels, the car wouldn't so much buck as it would just begin to slow down, but the engine would sound constant or begin to rev especially in 5th gear. Bucking as harsh as what you mention usually only happens when you reach the rpm cut off. And again, at 55 mph in 5th gear this wouldn't be really violent. Sadly as with most things these days you will probably have a hard time finding a dealership or mechanic that will take the time to work with you to resolve the problem, you'll have to be persistent to get a dealer/mechanic to work with you. These kinds of problems scare me, I currently own a 2000 grand vitara which has been pretty reliable - I'm seriously considering an Areio - or the new Chevrolet Malibu (very sweet) Anyway hope some of this information helps.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    I think you are right and I appreciate the insight. However, I cut my losses months ago and got rid of the Aerio. I traded it in on an 03 Hyundai Tiburon GT V6 back in April and even though I lost 5k, I'm extremely happy with my choice. The Tiburon has been a much better car than the Aerio. Better built, smoother, quieter, more refined, etc. Over 6k on the car so far and it has been trouble free, something I couldn't say about the Aerio. Suzuki really needs to inject some refinement in this car. It's embarrassing up against other cars in the same price range.
  • chrisducatichrisducati Member Posts: 394
    If you go to the European message boards for past Suzuki's you find a huge number of manual transmission failures. Americans buy automatic trans so much I wonder if we hardly hear if the weakness?
  • chocoxtacochocoxtaco Member Posts: 32
    If that's the case, then I hope that the tranny fails before the warranty expires.
  • grt2bgopgrt2bgop Member Posts: 1
    We have a Suzuki Aerio that has been in the dealership's shop Weeks over the last year. It is always for the transmission; 5th gear pops out & has to be held in to stay. They've "fixed" it 3 times...going in tonight for 4th run.

    We only have the one Suzuki dealership near. Does anyone know how to contact someone higher up on the food chain to see if this car can be repaired/replaced? I looked on their website & couldn't find a contact section. Thank you in advance.
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    I've asked internally if we have this information (toll-free number or something). I'll post when I hear back.

    Have you check the owner's manual? Many times the national customer service number or contact info is located there.
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    They have a web page about how to contact them

    Their listed 800 number is 800- 854-1594
  • miket13miket13 Member Posts: 2
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    I'm sure someone will come along to help with your issue. In the meantime, could you not post in ALL CAPS? It's the same as yelling.

    Many thanks.
  • miket13miket13 Member Posts: 2
    The dealer replaced the transmission and axle clip. The thermostat recurring problem was caused by dealer installing thermostat that was for different model Suzuki.( He did not have correct unit instock the 1th time. All working ok now.
  • chrisducatichrisducati Member Posts: 394
    If this has happened over three times and the car has less than 12 thousand miles I would imagine that the Lemon law would be in order. In Illinois after you have started the process the company has one last shot to fix it then you get a new car or money back. The Fifth gear problem is talked about on the European sites. I had hoped that Suzuki had beefed up the manual for U.S. models but it doesn't look like it. This seems to be the only real problem they talk about. engines seem to be very strong.
  • zuki4mezuki4me Member Posts: 1
    Owners book says, oil change every 7,500 miles. Dealer put sticker on car to change oil at 3,000 miles after my 1st oil change. Did he use wrong oil or is manual wrong ? I really like my aerio wagon , want to keep it in good running order.
  • carthellcarthell Member Posts: 130
    The oil change interval is dependent on your driving style, per the Suzuki manual. Take a look at the recommended maintenance portions of the manual, and see which interval fits your situation.

    I do not have the impression that Suzuki did very much research in the type of oil change interval that should apply to their engines. A 3k mile interval seems to be a standard industry figure applied to many types of car engines, regardless of manufacturer. Nissan, for example, seems to break the mold by recommending an oil change on their current Sentras every ~4k miles ("severe" service).

  • generaltsogeneraltso Member Posts: 7
    I've had my 2004 Aerio SX AWD for about 2 weeks. So far, I love the car but I do have one complaint. When I go over bumps, I can hear a subtle clunk coming from the front end. It's not that loud, but it's there. Sometimes I can also feel the clunk throught the floorboards. Has anyone else noticed this? Is this a normal occurance with the Aerio suspension or should I bring the car in to the dealer to have it checked out?
  • davidd5davidd5 Member Posts: 79
    generaltso, if you are not happy with the clunk type noise,by as means take it in and have it looked at. I have a 2003 SX with 21000km. I have no clunking issues at all.
  • generaltsogeneraltso Member Posts: 7
    I think I'll have it checked out. From what I can tell, nobody else has noticed this problem with their Aerio, so I'm thinking something's not right with mine. Thanks!
  • bigfrogbigfrog Member Posts: 27
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Turn of your CAPS LOCK key.
  • davidd5davidd5 Member Posts: 79
    Bigfrog,who the heck fed you that info. I belong to an Aerio owner group. Many members have put on bigger wheels. some up to 17". Some have gone to a taller tire with the shock rims. The only thing put out is the speedo,which will have to 100% of every car and truck out there. The AWD will be affected if you only change two wheels. The trans shift,very slightly. Not enough that you would notice on dat to day driveing. The A/C cannot possibly be affected. Many members have even put on an under drive pulley for the crank and the a/c is fine. How do you think the a/c could possibly be affected? Do you think the a/c turns off when the car is sitting and idleing?
  • davidd5davidd5 Member Posts: 79
    Well bigfrog you may work for suzuki and have all that info in that big book of yours. But sorry dude I have the facts and have seen the cars. Heres a couple to check out.
  • bigfrogbigfrog Member Posts: 27
    The facts are wheel speed affects a/c on suzuki aero.

    All you have showed me is a picture of a car with rims and a bodey kit. So this means what you can buy accessories. Well glad to see your credit card works.

    Here dave why don't you try something a test.
    Hook up a scan tool to your aerio and view the data stream for the a/c, fan speed, rpm, wheel speed, a/c center vent temp, a/c thermoster temp or if this is to complicated for you just record the whole data stream.

    Drive the car how ever it is you normaly drive and record the date stream.

    One time with factory wheels and one time with your a different diameter wheel and see for your self.

    If you can't read the data stream foward me a copey i will teach you then you will have all the facts.

    Unless your scared to be proven incorrect Dave.
    But I am sure you know exactly what your talking about you belong to a message board and type there every day .I only cash my suzuki pay check every week.
  • jasonwolfejasonwolfe Member Posts: 3
    Could you give us a technical explanation as to why wheel speed is such a big deal on the Aerio? Merely saying that you work for Suzuki does not prove your point.
    Like David has said, there are TONS of Aerio owners with aftermarket wheels/tires that are much larger than the stock 195/55/15's and there have been no problems reported. Regardless of what the technical specs may suggest, the empirical evidence indicates that there is no problem whatsoever and that's what matters--real world, in situ evidence.
    Sure, a larger rolling diameter will slow most everything down for a given vehicle speed, but only by a small percentage and unless the Aerio is designed to operate correctly only in an extremely narrow range of conditions (and that's the exact opposite of modern car design/engineering philosophy), I just don't see where the problem is. It's not as though you can really substantially change the wheel diameter anyway--there's just not THAT huge a difference between a 195/55/15 and, say, a 215/40/18 tire (which is about as big as can be reliably fitted on an Aerio). The difference in circumference between these two tires is less than 6%. If a change that small could really screw up the Aerio, then Suzuki has some serious engineering problems to deal with.
  • davidd5davidd5 Member Posts: 79
    I didnt want this to be personal,but you chose to make it so. Perhaps you should take some of that money that suzuki gives you every two weeks, and get on the short bus to school. They can teach you how to spell.
    vechile X
    normaly X
    modle X
    haveing X
    don X
    belive X
    maybey X
    techinal X
    buddey X
    bodey X
    copey X
    need I go on? Here are some more pics. Scroll down to the white AERIO. It is sponsored by Suzuki. and it is running 16" wheels.
    But again,what do I know. Just REAL world driving. I'm sure Suzuki would love to know an employee of theirs is kind of a jerk to the customer. I was just pointing out the FACT that you can run different rims and tires. And you have to attack me like I'm clueless.
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    no personal insults, no baiting people into online fights. Constructive and productive discussions work, baiting doesn't.
  • bigfrogbigfrog Member Posts: 27
    I did not attack you attacked me rember the frist few lines of post #40 (Bigfrog,who the heck fed you that info. I belong to an Aerio owner group.)I never said you could not run different size rims and tires on aerio. I just wanted to point that this change will affect aerio more than lets say a civic or subaru or matrix,or any other cheap car kids put 5000 doller wheels on. I never said it would not run or that nothing would work. I offered you the techinal info pages on this it is in a book for the cost of eighty dollers or go read it at your local dealer if thay will let you. I also gave you a test to do. Did you do it???
  • bigfrogbigfrog Member Posts: 27
    you both asked me to prove my claim i gave dave a test he did not perform jason you can also try the test if you like it is in post #43. This test would have proved what i have been posting. If you would like to read it from the service manual please vist you can buy you self a service manual or stop buy your local dealer and see if thay will let you read one. I am not going to wast any more time on this issue I teach enough actual mechanics every day.
  • jasonwolfejasonwolfe Member Posts: 3
    I have both volumes of the 2003 Aerio factory service manual at home on a bookshelf in my office, so please give me a page that explains why wheel speed is so important. I understand how bigger wheels could affect the A/C, since for a given vehicle speed the engine is turning slower, but so what? The Aerio's A/C is too aggressive anyway. I actually bought an underdrive pulley to slow the A/C compressor down, because it blows too cold and sucks up too much power from the engine.
    That being said, please elaborate on what else is dependent on wheel speed. My Aerio is a 5-speed manual FWD, so I don't know much about the auto's or AWD's, but I'm still curious as to how they could be affected. I'm not flaming you or trying to give you a hard time. I really am just curious, since I get asked a lot of technical questions and I'm always looking for more information to share.
  • bigfrogbigfrog Member Posts: 27
    Hi jason I will look in to those pages after the new year. You will probley find info on it in the diagnostic section. If you read in the ac section you will find the reason for the super cold ac on aerio. It is due to the pre cooler. If you look at it there is the big condenser then a very small one under it. Most people think it is a trans or ps cooler. But if you look in your service manual it is a ac pre cooler. It works very well. I will actualy try to get a copey of the tech schooling notes that is realy where wheel speed is best explained.I can not post it on line do to legal reasons but I can mail it to you. Let me see if I can get my hands on it.
  • mrbilldeckermrbilldecker Member Posts: 1
    I have 60 series tires on my AWD and the car looks awesome! Much better proportions than the factory set. Not to mention that tires are much cheaper at that price.

    Sure the speedometer is supposed to be off by a mile and half or whatever, but I have not noticed any difference. I've driven by several streetside radar speed signs (mulitple times just to check this) and also with those supposed accurate permanant highway speed zones signs. There is no noticible difference in posted speed and what my speedometer says.

    There might be a difference if I check it with a GPS unit, but honestly we're not talkin 10-12 miles per hour. You always get a few miles an hour leway when dealing with speed zones and traffic cops anyway.

    My A/C is still cold and works just fine... I even have an Underdrive pully installed

    Plus, I hear that there is a speedo flash kit in the works for us anyway, so not to worry if you think this is a life or death situation. (which it's not)

    OBTW, my ABS works like a champ still!
  • bigfrogbigfrog Member Posts: 27
    This is not a life or death situation. I don't even know if I ever want to post info in this board. I just thought other people into these cars would like to know this little unknown fact. I know thats why I search these boards,sometimes you can find a whole bunch of people who have the same problem as your one customer. Or one person with a big problem no one can fix that you have the answer to.

    That is what I thought these boards were for!
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