Acura TSX Prices Paid and Buying Experience

kyfdx

I agree...if you don't like the color, I'd pass...

regards,
kyfdx

akatz75

i'm passing on the black, thanks folks. however, i have in writing from one dealer that he has my color option and will beat any bonafide offer. I have the offer in my hands, just waiting to make the move. do you recommend i call this new dealership and tell them my current price quote, and make sure they will match it? are they just trying to get me in there? I want to settle everything up front, before I go in. this is fun!

kyfdx

You won't know until you call them... You almost never get the best price until you show up in person, write your check, and sign the order.

regards,
kyfdx

robr2

the leather is not real leather? i haven't heard that one...

Typically it is leather seating surfaces with the balance being vinyl, leatherette, naugahyde, what have you.

copseyal

I would forward the offer to the dealer who says he will beat any offer you get, and then have him e-mail you a breakdown detailing all costs (OTD). Once he does this, and verifies you are indeed talking about the exact vehicle you want, I wouldn't have a problem givin him a credit card deposit to hold it till you get there. It's what I did, and had no problems. It is fun, workin a great deal from your desk! You do that, all you do is walk in, pay and leave. If you can, get your financing in advance, and tell them you don't need any, otherwise they may unnecessarily run your credit. Good luck!

akatz75

Thank you. Once I speak with the new dealer who will beat any bonafide offer, I get the feeling he won't beat this offer. But hey, he said he would, so if he doesn't, too bad.

You suggest emailing him the details of my current offer, and having him reply and sending a bill of sale, then make my move?

akatz75

If I have a trade-in, and have received an offer in writing. When I go into the dealership, how do you suppose I proceed?

1. Get the quote on the trade-in, then show the quote they already gave me on the new car? or..
2. Show them the current quote, and then go after the trade-in value?

Is point #1 legal? Would it work?

akatz75

Also - i have a quote in my hands OTD $28.050. is this good? can this be beat? what do ya'll think??

kyfdx

It all depends..

1) If you HAVE to trade in your car.. and don't have the option of selling it yourself.. then the prices you have received don't really mean much, as they can quote any ridiculously low number for your trade, once they see it. It is really hard to do an internet deal if you have a trade, unless you can go ahead with the deal without trading in.

2) If you have the ability to sell your trade yourself, at your leisure, then the deal you have looks great.

3) You MAY get a good price for your trade anyway, but I'd be prepared for a lowball offer.

regards,
kyfdx

akatz75

Thanks, and I agree. I'm probably going to sell my current vehicle privately. I have 2 interested buyers and hope to go that route.

If not, I'm sure they'll lowball me. But, can I get a trade-in value first for my vehicle, then show them the offer I have in writing for their vehicle?

Thanks again.

kyfdx

If the offer is from another dealer, all you have is the second dealer's assertion that he will beat any deal... No matter how you play it, he's not going to go for a deal that doesn't make sense to him. I doubt he'll give you a value on your car, that turns out to be great for you, then go for a minimum profit deal on the new car. Could happen...but I doubt it.. It seems like they are pretty aggressive on their prices, so just trot the trade on over there, show them the deal you have, and see what they come up with.. You can always try to negotiate the "difference", if you aren't happy with what they come up with. With a trade, you just can't make it all happen in cyberspace.

regards,
kyfdx

copseyal

Yes if at all possible sell your car privately, and have your financing in hand, otherwise (as kyfdx mentioned), the price he quoted you wont mean much, and there are areas that are gray. If you have sold your car, and a loan in hand, you are simply negotiating a bottom line price. I did this, and had a deal agreed to before walking in the door, and the time I spent in the dealer was about 40 minutes. Simply awesome. And the TSX is a sweet ride, you will love it!

akatz75

Sweet. Thanks. I should have my current sale wrapped up within a few days. Then it's off to the dealership. I should still put a down payment on the vehicle of my choice and secure it as well as the price before walking in? Thanks.

rsf

I would like to hear from anyone in the Tampa Bay/Sarasota Florida area who purchased a new TSX recently.

What were your experiences? Which dealerships did you negotiate with? Which one offered the best deal? OTD price? etc.

I would also consider going as far as Miami or Ft. Lauderdale. Has anyone had any experiences in these areas also?

Thanks!!

copseyal

Once your sale is done, and assuming you have your financing squared away, get him to e-mail you (or fax--whatever is easy), an itemized Out the Door Price for the exact car/color/navi/non-navi you want to buy. Should just be Base Price+Tax+Tags+Fee (this fee is bs, but they will likely charge you at least a $100 to pull the plastic off the car, and have someone mail in your title info.) Should be nothing else on there. Anyway, once he does that, give him a nominal credit card deposit ($500 max) to hold it till you get there (provided he requires it). I had about 5 different dealers attempting to outdo one another towards the end of my buying a car. Good stuff. Most were a pleasure to work with, even though I had suspected the worst. If you have a deal in hand, there is nothing to negotiate when you walk in! Good luck.

calc

Just signed a contract on a black/parchment TSX with nav. I have to laugh at the dealer I mentioned earlier that blew me off for saying my offer of 27K was simply not realistic. I ended up with 27,000 OTD at another, closer dealer in Westchester. I have to say that I am very happy with their internet sales manager.

Thanks to all that responded.

gloves

If you're willing to travel in Florida, consider Acura of Orange Park, Jacksonville. I bought a TSX from them in February, non-navi for $24,700 plus tax, tags & title. Give'em a call.

Ira

rsf

Ira- Do you know the name of the gentleman you dealt with?

akatz75

How did you do that?! OTD for 27K TSX w/ navi? Please, pray tell. Honestly, how did that happen? I've received a quote from an internet manage for 26K, non-navi, and that's not OTD.

jrynn

See post 437 (from mid-February) re South Florida dealers. TSX prices have undoubtedly moved since then, but dealer culture/personality probably have been pretty stable. I'd bet Rick Case (outside Ft. Lauderdale) is still the easiest to deal with by phone/internet.

calc

Whoops, there was a typo in my post: it should have read 27,200. That's only $200 diff.

It's not that hard, I don't think I'm a great negotiator or anything. Just shop around -- it's easy using the internet. Send emails to 4-5 of the closest dealers, tell them exactly what you want. Do your research beforehand. If you seem to know about the car (the options, the colors, etc) I think that they will assume (some of them anyway) that you know what they can realistically sell the car for and still make a decent profit.

akatz75

I have a very hard time you are OTD at that price?? Including taxes and everything??

calc

No, that does not include taxes and title. I think that the term "OTD" usually does not include those (am I wrong? I could be).

It does include destination, and all of the other crap they sometimes throw at you.

calc

My bad... looking at old posts it seems OTD does not include TTL.

Anyway, the price was $27,200 not including TTL. Anyway, TTL depends heavily on where you live.

Sorry for the confusion.

akatz75

Glad we cleared that up...I was perplexed!

I'm looking at an OTD price for Auto w/ Navi @ $29K. Any comments on this? Located in Midwest.

copseyal

Just to clarify, on my posts in this forum, OTD (Out the Door), means exactly that. What it costs to get it out the door. Obviously that would include tax, tags, title, and any fee. Price before that in my mind would be your base price. I think most people on these posts quote their base price, as tax varies from state to state. And just to restate, my base price for a Carbon Gray/Quartz, 5AT, non-NAVI was $25,200. OTD was $26,700. That was in MD where our sales tax is 5%. If I were lookin for a NAVI on the same car, I would use $27K as my targeted base price, or roll some of these other prices for the lowest and use that for your price. (That's how I went about it).

sjmurray3

Signed on the dotted line today, am looking at it in my driveway right now! Beautiful car, pooring rain here, so I am not going to drive it a lot today... bummer! Did anyone go with the after market stuff, like the paint sealant and leather/vinly protection for $350? Another one was Road Hazard? I didn't but may go back for leather protection! Any thoughts? Scott

gloves

I dealt with a few of them. I've owned an Audi A4 and BMW 328i. I let them know that my feeling was the TSX isn't in the same league as those cars with regard to handling, feel, brakes, turning radius, and overall driving experience. You do get a lot for the price, and if the "ultimate driving experience" isn't that important, which it isn't to me, anymore, then they needed to put a lot of distance between the price of the German cars and the TSX - otherwise, I would just as soon get a German car. They met my terms. I also paid cash, no financing.

Good luck.

akatz75

I have a bill of sale in my hands for the TSX Auto w/ Navi for $28,200. This OTD price, everything included. Just curious- any pricing experts out here care to give any feedback? Can I dig a little deeper? The bill says sub-total is $26,275. Thanks!

copseyal

Sounds like a darned good deal, based on prior posts, and my own buying experience. I walked out with a non-navi for about $1500 less than your NAVI (with NAVI being an extra $2K option), and I thought I was getting a great deal. If this is the car you want, I think you have a really nice deal. I am sure you could haggle another week or so to get maybe a few freebies, or even a little less on the bottom line, but at this point, I think you have to ask whetehr or not you think it's worth it. That is definitely one of the better prices for a NAVI I have seen on this board. If this car is the exact car you wanted, I think it's a great deal. Nice work. Which one did you get?

goldenklanes

Has anyone purchased one lately in the Pittsburgh area and if so where at and how much did you pay? Can't wait to get 1!

camphor

Any idea on the invoice price of the tsx here in Canada? more specifically Toronto

garbs

We got a Black TSX from Greenwich (CT) Acura for $25,200 (plus TTL, but incl. destination). Not the best deal ever, but I was pretty happy to beat (by far) Edmunds TMV and KBB's suggested price to pay.

Basically offered to buy on the spot, plus the car had 200 miles on it from being transported...

hanburger

I would like to thank all of you who provided helpful tips and information on this board. Going through a local internet sales manager was definitely hassle-free. I picked up a black TSX from Acura of Mission Viejo about a week ago. I had to wait about two weeks for the car to arrive but it was well worthy it. It had 3 miles on it!
Anyhow, I paid $25,600 (including destination but before TTL) and I got the dealer to install wheel locks and mud guards for the same price. The sales manager was more willing to negotiate than sales managers from other local dealerships. Some guys didn't even bother responding to my email requests for quotes.
Thanks again to you all!

ericw1

The dealer had a sale - I paid invoice price + destination charge + 3.17% VA tax + $250 processing fee that most VA dealers charge their cutomers.

I also got Lojack but that's totally optional...

canadakris

The invoice price in Canada on a TSX is $32k. I just bought mine last night. Got it for $33,800, but I think I also got $1k more for my trade-in than it was worth, so I probably ended up paying about $800 over invoice.

Got Milano red with full skirt package and fog lights. Can't wait to pick it up at the end of the month. It's a good time to get one, with low finance and lease rates for this month.

ritius

I just got a confirmed deal for $28400 OTD. Do you think it is a good deal?

I am not sure about color now. Definitely want Ebony inside. What is the best ext. color?

sjmurray3

Hi Board, I paid invoice plus $52.00 + 3.2% tax + $388 fees for an OTD price of $25,987 last week. 400 miles on it so far, got 25 MPG combined city/highway! I love it, plenty of pep for my area. Put 93 Octane in it yesterday. Did anyone buy the aftermarket protection package for the leather/carpet/paint?

saruhhh

Straight from my Consumer Reports New Car Buying Guide(Five Steps to Getting the Best Deal) page 10):

#5: Dealers often try to sell you extras such as rustproofing, fabric protection, paint sealant, or etching your VIN.

Don't accept these things. If any are pre-printed on the bill of sale, cross them out. CR surveys show rust is not a major problem anymore (from me: unless you live very near the ocean). You can treat upholstry and apply paint sealant yourself with off-the shelf products. You can even VIN-etch your windows with a $25 kit.

Hope that helps.

lee_w

You would be better off to list your email as public. posting email here leaves it open to spam. You can go to account details to change email from private to public. Goodluck with your buying experience!

lee_w

Thanks saruhhh! That is helpful information. I will use that for other boards. People are always asking and I have also heard to avoid these extras! Thanks again.

sjmurray3

Thanks Saruhhh! I do live near the ocean, Virginia Beach/Norfolk/Yorktown area. I have never bought any of this after-market stuff either, but the Road Hazard pitch made some sense, of course it's about $275 if I recall? The road hazard is for the tires and rims in case of tire/rim damage. They are giving me a two week grace period to take the offer. I'll pass on the exterior/interior protection.

kyfdx

I'd skip the road hazard insurance as well.. It is full of fine print, and you usually only get to see a brochure instead of the contract, until after you have paid.

Some common exclusions:

Only covers first set of tires.

Only covers wheels, if first set of tires are still on the car.

ETC, ETC, ETC.

regards,
kyfdx

copseyal

From what i have seen the Carbon Gray is the toughest to get, but can be had. I am partial as that is the color I have, but I have yet to see a color on this car that doesn't look awesome!

saruhhh

No problem. I don't like paying for crap I don't need. I don't want anyone else to do it either. The Consumer Reports book was about $10 and it's great. Well worth the hundreds or thousands you'll save with their tips.

I just got my real estate appraisal license. The trainer that I am working with took me to a neighborhood right near the San Francisco Zoo to appraise a house. He grew up in the area and was telling me that because they are so close to the ocean, the cars tend to rust quickly.

So, he was talking to the homeowners about it, and they said they had noticed rust on their cars since they moved into that house a few years ago. They both had cars that were under 10 years old. They said they never made the connection.

So, if you live near enough to the ocean to walk to it, I'd get the rustproofing.

bartolome

Last Thursday I used the Acura website to configure a TSX (Automatic w/ Navi, Satin Silver Metallic exterior w/ Ebony Leather interior) and then request quotes from all dealers in N.ern California. I had to select one dealership at a time, submit the request and then hit the back button two times to select another dealership. I continued doing this until I had gone through 12 dealerships.

All 12 dealerships responded within 24 hours. Most of them gave quotes, usually about $1800 over invoice with a sales pitch about how the car was limited production....blah, blah, blah. Anyways, 3 of the dealerships replied back with quotes about $1000 over invoice. I wrote each of them and told them I was looking for $500 over invoice and whoever responded first with that price had the deal. One dealer (Los Gatos) responded immediately and agreed to $500 over invoice or $27,012. The only other fee besides the standard Tax, Title, & License was a $45 document fee. I accepted the deal and was faxed an inventory number and VIN number showing 3 miles on the car. Four other dealers responded that they would match that price and then two of them offered to beat it by up to $200, but I gave my word to Los Gatos and I kept it. I like dealing with folks who are straight up to begin with rather than changing their story once they feel they may lose the sale.

I arrived at the Los Gatos dealership on Saturday. The car was ready and waiting, everything was perfect, and the paperwork was completed within an hour. I have never had a better experience with any dealership. I fully expected some sort of last minute fees or changes to the deal, but nothing of the sort happened.

kyfdx

Great deal!! Wouldn't it be great if all car buying was this way?

regards,
kyfdx

saruhhh

Hi Bart,

Buying my car from Los Gatos (friend of a friend works there). What was the OTD price?

Thanks!

bartolome

$27012 car & destination
$65 wheel locks (we added this)
$45 doc fee
$2237.57 sales tax
$231 licensing fee
$5 tire fee

$29,595.57 Out the Door

bartolome

I should also mention that after purchasing the car we decided to purchase the 7yr/100,000 miles extended warranty for $1,495 and the wheel coverage for $299. We did not buy these at the point of purchase, but rather about 6 hours later after we had time to think a bit about it. They knocked $100 off the total of the two when we purchased them together $1694 Total.

Contrary to what someone stated elsewhere in this forum, the wheel coverage in this case covers the tires and wheels for 5 years from any road hazard damage. It is not limited to the original tires. I checked pricing on tires and they run about $200 a piece. They also have to be replaced if punctured by a nail or anything else. Apparently because they are W speed rated, they are not supposed to be repaired only replaced.

The extended warranty is fully refundable up to the end of the 7 years if it is not used.