Maintenance & Repair Costs

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Comments

  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Same with the A6 forum. Just read before you leap...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I don't think an Audi will be any better or worse than a VW...I'd say very solidly "average" in reliability, meaning that a totally trouble-free existence is unlikely. If they didn't make Toyotas, then maybe you could say better things about Audi.

    On the positive side, they are lovely cars and have nice interiors and drive pretty well (but not as sharply as a BMW in my opinion).
  • 94_chevy94_chevy Member Posts: 6
    hey i have a 94 silverado 1500 and my speedometer and tach dont work, but all of my other guages do. does anybody have any ideas on how to fix this problem or what the cost might be to get it fixed?
    thanks
  • learning3learning3 Member Posts: 3
    Hi all,
    I am new to this posting so if I'm in the wrong place, please forgive me.

    I have a 1999 Plymouth Voyager with/95,000 miles on it which has been so dependable over the years for me. This is my question: I bought the extended warranty when new (yes, I have learned that I shouldn't have) and it's about to run out. What am I looking budget wise to start banking as worse case (not inc new car) for car repairs at this point in time? I keep my cars until they cannot be driven anymore. I don't trust the dealership where I have been taking my car and am looking forward to getting a reliable independent to work on it from now on. :)
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    You're in the right place. Welcome aboard.

    A good independent mechanic should be able to take care of all your maintenance/repair concerns. Later model Chrysler minivans are generally pretty reliable, but they have had some transaxle problems. Aside from that, they're usually good as far as repairs go. Worst case scenario as about $2,500 for a factory reman transaxle.
  • learning3learning3 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks Alcan for your response. My guesstimate was about 3K. What's the transaxle problem and what should I look for if anything? The only thing I've noticed lately is a low thumping noise when turning a corner at low speed near the left front wheel area.

    I wish they still made the Voyager. I would seriously consider another one after this one goes but I intend to hopefully keep this one for a very, very, long time!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That noise you describe sounds like a bad CV joint in the axle shaft (outside the transaxle). You might want to have that checked at some point. If the mechanic sees a torn rubber boot that goes over the CV joint, then you might want to remove the joint and at least inspect it before putting on a new boot.
  • learning3learning3 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the input. Any idea how much this might cost? I would hate to go to the dealership with this one but then again maybe this would be covered under the extended warranty.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    couple hundred bucks.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    "What's the transaxle problem and what should I look for if anything?"

    The internals of the differential assembly, and the diff bearings, have had some problems. You'll know it when pieces of differential come through the transaxle housing.
  • crankshaftcrankshaft Member Posts: 105
    where can i find a publication which shows the repair times which technicians use to calculate repair estimates?
  • adjoa75adjoa75 Member Posts: 14
    I am soo fustrated with this car , any advice is welcome!

    Okay, I bought the car used a year ago (from a honda dealership, took it to another dealership to have it looked over and it had a clean bill of health), it had ~31K on it. I am at 52K now, mostly highway miles.

    I had my 45k maintenance done in may and the back brakes were fixed at the sametime. In that same month the CEL comes on (before the maintenance) took the car to a service station and the mechanic tells me I need oil, so I fill it up and tell the technican during the 45k maintenance what happens, seeing that I get my oil changes there also. He tells me to monitor it and let him know if it happens again. Now in late june samething.

    So the car has been losing oil. I have to add oil at lease one a month. There are no oil leaks anywhere, I check when I pull out from a spot. My friend was driven behind me a couple of times and there isn't black smoke coming from the car. Also, when I am accelerating there is a delay and then the car "hiccups" and then speeds up.

    If you have any idea what is going on place give your suggestions.

    Thanks!

    P.S. - anyone clear the extended warranty for the transmission? The dealership says that it only cover if the transmission needs to be replaced not anything that needs to be fixed.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,754
    Could be a number of things ... but if its burning oil, the first thing your mechanic should do, I think, is check compression in all the cylinders. If you are getting blowby through either the head gasket or rings, the test will show it.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • paulotterstedtpaulotterstedt Member Posts: 9
    I have a 1997 pathfinder, 5 speed manual, 4 WD, with 126,500 miles. I am trying to decide whether to keep the vehicle, which I like a lot. It needs new tires and exhaust work, and has a knock sensor problem and a minor coolant leak, I believe at a gasket associated with the intake manifold. Also, the CV boots are starting to crack. Recently, I have been noticing an unusual sound at low speeds. It is intermittent, and does not happen when the car is not moving. It seems to be worse when the car has been parked for a while. It is, like all sounds, hard to describe, but sounds kind of rubbery, like scraping or clunking. It comes from the front end. I have not noticed that it correlates with hitting bumps, releasing or depressing the clutch, shifting gears, etc.

    Any thoughts what could be causing this? I am sitting on the fence whether I should get the tires and exhaust work done, but will probably get rid of the car if this most recent noise is something serious. My dealer told me not to worry about the coolant leak or knock sensor; just to use 89 octane gas and keep an eye on the coolant level.

    Any thoughts about the noise and the wisdom of hanging on to this vehicle greatly appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Okay, let's figure it this way.

    Worst possible scenario, your problems sound like at most $2,000. This PRESUMES the body is not all beat up. If the truck is trashed cosmetically, disregard what I say.

    So $2,000 is how many new car payments? About 6 I'd say. So it seems worth it at 126K. Once the truck hits 175K, I'd probably tell you something different.

    Get an estimate to fix this truck up just the way you want it, and then get out pencil and paper and figure out the costs per month vs. a new car w/ warranty. Figure if you are very unlucky you'll be paying maybe $50--$100 a month average to keep this truck in good repair and maintenance AFTER you've sunk in the $2,000.

    Don't know about the noise--you have to have that diagnosed prior to making your decision.
  • ctl1ctl1 Member Posts: 18
    I am approaching 30K mi on my 04 Max. I've maintained the car following the owner's manual for level 1 since most of my driving is city stop&go driving (level 2 is for mostly highway driving). Essentially, this is an oil change every 3750 mi, tire rotation every 7500 mi, air filter every 15K mi. I've notice the premium level recommends a lot more than level 1 such as flushing the radiator every 2 yrs/30K mi, changing transmission fluid at 4 yrs/60K mi. The level 1 doesn't recommend flushing the radiator until 4yrs/60K mi, and only has "inspect" the transmission fluid at the various intervals. Any thoughts on which recommendation to follow would be appreciated.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    If you plan on keeping the car until "the wheels fall off", I would follow the level 1 recommendation.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    What's forever? My '99 Nissan is at 105k on the normal service interval - it's worth maybe $5,000 now so the useful life could be said to be about over. Even though I plan to run it into the ground, I don't think doubling up on my service interval is going to double the life (or value) of my car.

    Steve, Host
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think I'd increase the oil change intervals....3,750 is a waste of oil and money...a radiator flush is a good idea every 2 years (4 years is too long IMO) , I'm for that, and also a brake fluid flush every 2-3 years. 60K on the transmission is fine unless you are towing. Tire rotation is good as is.
  • ctl1ctl1 Member Posts: 18
    What interval would you recommend for oil changes? The level 2 maintenance interval is 7500 mi which seems like a long time between changes. I grew up changing my own oil in my cars every 3K mi because if I waited till 5-6K mi, the old oil definitely looked dirtier. But that was the 80's. I'm sure things are different now, but what is reasonable?

    The Nissan owner's manual states the the level 1 recommendations is appropriate for stop&go driving, towing etc. I too thought that the first radiator flush at 4 yrs sounded too long but why would Nissan suggest this interval? Are they using a special additive or anti-freeze fluid? The lack of a definitive transmission fluid change interval also puzzled me. It simply recommends periodic inspection.

    The Nissan manual does have a premium maintenance level for "ultimate" care which does include the 2yr/30K mi radiator flush and 4yr/60K mi transmission fluid change. But the manual also states that it is not necessary to use the premium maintenance schedule to maintain warranty coverage. I guess my basic question is am I wasting my money regarding the radiator flush and transmission fluid change if I follow the Premium service recommendation?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If you are the kind of person that keeps a car until it drops dead, then sure, do the premium services; but if you are going to bail right after warranty, then maybe not.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    Who said anything about "forever"?
  • mrdetailer1mrdetailer1 Member Posts: 4
    Well if you have questions about maintenance levels simply look at the cost of the maintenance vs the cost of the failed part.

    For example draining the transmission fluid, putting in a new filter every other year, or 15,000 miles (What can I say it's a Taurus and needs to be babied) vs the 3500 for the replacement transmission is a no brainer. I've had many cars with fussy tranny's and never had to replace one yet because of following that procedure, and that includes Mazda's 626 with their notorious failure rate, Dodge's that went out on a regular basis as well as the Fussy Ford mentioned above. So what if I spend about $65.00 every other year. Saves a lot in the long run and keeps the auto tranny running smoothly.

    Radiators. There I haven't been as careful. Had to replace 2 over the years.. About $300--500 depending on the make and model. Personally, now I drain and refill every year, and have the radiator cleaned by a specialty shop every 3-4 years. It may not be the least expensive way to go, but I can guarantee to you that I can climb up that miserable Baker CA to Vegas Hill in the heat of the summer without flinching while vehicles are dying to the left and right of me.

    But a larger problem is the Heater Core for your cabin heat. Japanese imports are notorious for having these clog up. And may run up to $1000.00 to repair since you have to get behing the dash or firewall. You keep your odds improved if you flush and refill with fresh fluid at least every other year.

    My experience with older vehicles had shown that aggressive maintenance of radiators, transmissions, belts and hoses saves a lot of expense and frustration down the line.

    But then again, for some strange reason I'd rather not be stranded in the desert. ;)
  • superdogsuperdog Member Posts: 37
    Anyone know the cost of getting a ding ( from a car door >=/ ) repaired.. its minor.. but looks ugly.

    Thanks!
    SD
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If a dent man does it on-site without painting/bodywork, maybe $40-$60. If you have to have it done at a body shop they may have to re-paint the entire panel, so that could get $$$ $300-600.
  • skafkasskafkas Member Posts: 1
    My 1994 Mercury Sable (101,000 miles) recently developed a clunking sound that was rhythmic with how fast I was driving. I took it to a local repair place and they replaced the both of the front stablizer bars for $230. He mentioned that there was a shimmy at around 55 mph, and suggested I get an alignment. I noticed it drove more roughly than normal from about 35-55, and then at 55 the steering wheel shook. Yesterday, I took it to a local tire chain for an alignment. They took a look at the front end and told me that both of my strut rod bushings need to be replaced. They gave me an estimate of $642. It wasn't an itemized estimate though. Does this sound appropriate for this kind of repair?

    $230 sounded okay, but $872 is getting close to the value of the car. Also, if this is a fair price, how long can I go before repairing it? I won't have enough money to do it until October 1st. Most of my driving is at low speeds, but occasionally 45-50, which is just below when I feel the shimmy.

    Thanks for your help.
  • donnyd15donnyd15 Member Posts: 5
    how much for a 96 olds aurora igintion switch parts and labor
  • cespinozacespinoza Member Posts: 2
    I rear ended a 2005 BMW 745 SI, small scratches, I was driving my mothers car at the time. I agreeded to pay for the scratches via cash, lady came back to me with a estimate, she said that the body shop told her if would cozt around $2,000 dollars for a new bumper, but she said she talked them into just fixing the scratches at a price of $881.54. Ive heard of paint jobs on bumpers ranging from 200-600 dollars, Im not sure if they are trying to rip my off. Would anyone know what the estimated price is for a paint job on a bumper for a BMW?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Who hit the car. Don't you have insurance to cover this?

    You didn't hit a 1991 Dodge Truck...You hit a VERY expensive car that needs to be fixed PROPERLY and not have some Mickey Mouse job done on it!

    You got off lucky...most people would have insisted on a new bumper on that type of car!
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Yeah, I feel your pain; my wife's 1997 528i was recently rear-ended and the final bill at the quality shop I use was $850-and it was essentially paintwork only. You are very, very, lucky to get out of this for under $1000. My 1988 M6 took a low speed rear hit right before I bought it; the entire exhaust system was hosed so the final bill to the at-fault driver was over $7000. Pay the lady-she is giving you a much better deal than I would have.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well this a brand spankin-new car here and the bumper has to look good. I agree, pay the ransom and be grateful she didn't bust 'em for you.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    And not just ANY car! He picked the wrong car to hit!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Somebody could really screw you on a rear ender like that. Sounds like the other party is being very reasonable. Where I live the owner of such a car would probably claw your face off for openers.
  • nathanmcnathanmc Member Posts: 3
    I have been searching for a web sight that has tested different motor oil brands and has ranked motor oil and oil filters. A consumer reports list per say. I have found a listing on Amsoil web page, but it is pretty out dated. Is there any other listing out there? I am a cosumer report junky, and I cant believe there is nothing out there on motor oils...
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Did my lawyer mention how much neck pain I now have after you rear-ended my $72,000 car? LOL
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I clipped a BMWs side mirror in a parking lot (didn't even damage it) and the owner wanted to call the Highway Patrol and have me ticketed (no kidding). I was tempted to laugh and leave but thought I'd stay around for the expression on the cop's face. She also insisted on filing an accident report.
  • danf5danf5 Member Posts: 38
    >She also insisted on filing an accident report.

    Insurance companies require 'em. You're a fool if you have any kind of accident and don't get one.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Total and absurd waste of human energy in my case but as a general rule I think you're right.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I've got a story about a local doctor (eye doctor), his hit-and-run on my parked car, and him not wanting to pay for repairs to my car.

    Call the police.
  • rcamposrcampos Member Posts: 2
    I took my 93 Suburban to the Chevy dealer for a $2800 transmission replacement. When I gave it to them the only thing wrong with it was that the transmission would not switch to higher gears.

    When they gave it back to me the ABS warning light and, some times, the brake light were on. I made a U turn and went back to complaint. They said just bring it back it is probably something we did not connect properly.

    Now they tell me it is the ABS computer and it needs to be changes. I say they ruined it in the process but they say that is impossible and want me to pay $200 for a part that they would install for "free" as a token of good will.

    Is it possible they shorted the system and fried the computer? One of their arguments is that they did not even opened the hood. What if they did not disconnect the battery and somehow caused a short circuit?

    What do you think?
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I think there full of it. They had to have opened the hood, if for no other reason then at least to fill the trans with fluid ( and I know they opened it for other reasons anyway). It's time to talk to the service manager, if you haven't already, and get some answers on what the failure actually is. The master cylinder, brake booster, and ABS components could easily be in harms way during a trans job if it's not done right.
  • soluved408soluved408 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have '05 Audi A4 2.0T and I've recently reached 5K milage plateau and I was wondering whats covered under the 5K maintenance package. Is it simply an oil change?

    thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Uggggggg? Read your owner's manual?
  • viryviry Member Posts: 9
    dealer wants $450+ for this service ( lots of inspect this, inspect that "25" to be exact). Is it worth it ? Am I out of line for thinking this is an expensive service or should I just shut up and get it done ? Better yet, is this what most people are paying for this service ( I'm in DC area).
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Ask the dealer for an exact list of the services they want to perform and compare them to what is actually called for in your owners manual. Odds are the dealer is throwing in extra "recommended" procedures-such as injector cleaning-that generate a lot of profit for the dealer and provide little or no benefit to your car.
  • ricardocalricardocal Member Posts: 9
    div2 is right. You should always compare what the dealer wants to do with what the owner's manual indicates. Yesterday, I took my '02 Civic in for an oil and filter change, but wanted a brake inspection so I paid for the Minor Service. The dealer suggested the coolant service. Although I'm one of those people who really is under the severe service schedule, the owners's manual indicates that coolant is replaced at 120,000 miles but I only have 19,430 miles. I declined the coolant service. I think you should decline that $450+ service, unless that's your timing belt replacement and water pump scheduled service.
  • iceg110iceg110 Member Posts: 1
    recently purchased car 300 e with 150000 miles . i do not know if tranny fluid and filter was ever changed. do i risk causing damge by changing fluid now?
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    Just curious...what do struts run these days for an average Japanese/Korean car these days (Mitsu/Hyundai/Honda/Toyota) installed?
  • corvettecorvette Member Posts: 11,340
    I've heard varying opinions... If the fluid was never changed in 13 years and 150,000 miles, it would probably be a solid black now.
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