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On the positive side, they are lovely cars and have nice interiors and drive pretty well (but not as sharply as a BMW in my opinion).
thanks
I am new to this posting so if I'm in the wrong place, please forgive me.
I have a 1999 Plymouth Voyager with/95,000 miles on it which has been so dependable over the years for me. This is my question: I bought the extended warranty when new (yes, I have learned that I shouldn't have) and it's about to run out. What am I looking budget wise to start banking as worse case (not inc new car) for car repairs at this point in time? I keep my cars until they cannot be driven anymore. I don't trust the dealership where I have been taking my car and am looking forward to getting a reliable independent to work on it from now on.
A good independent mechanic should be able to take care of all your maintenance/repair concerns. Later model Chrysler minivans are generally pretty reliable, but they have had some transaxle problems. Aside from that, they're usually good as far as repairs go. Worst case scenario as about $2,500 for a factory reman transaxle.
I wish they still made the Voyager. I would seriously consider another one after this one goes but I intend to hopefully keep this one for a very, very, long time!
The internals of the differential assembly, and the diff bearings, have had some problems. You'll know it when pieces of differential come through the transaxle housing.
http://buymitchell1.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MLE05&Category_Cod- e=ESTMAN
http://www.delmarlearning.com/Browse_Catalog.aspx?Cat1ID=AU&Cat2ID=CHM&Cat3ID=CHM03
Okay, I bought the car used a year ago (from a honda dealership, took it to another dealership to have it looked over and it had a clean bill of health), it had ~31K on it. I am at 52K now, mostly highway miles.
I had my 45k maintenance done in may and the back brakes were fixed at the sametime. In that same month the CEL comes on (before the maintenance) took the car to a service station and the mechanic tells me I need oil, so I fill it up and tell the technican during the 45k maintenance what happens, seeing that I get my oil changes there also. He tells me to monitor it and let him know if it happens again. Now in late june samething.
So the car has been losing oil. I have to add oil at lease one a month. There are no oil leaks anywhere, I check when I pull out from a spot. My friend was driven behind me a couple of times and there isn't black smoke coming from the car. Also, when I am accelerating there is a delay and then the car "hiccups" and then speeds up.
If you have any idea what is going on place give your suggestions.
Thanks!
P.S. - anyone clear the extended warranty for the transmission? The dealership says that it only cover if the transmission needs to be replaced not anything that needs to be fixed.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Any thoughts what could be causing this? I am sitting on the fence whether I should get the tires and exhaust work done, but will probably get rid of the car if this most recent noise is something serious. My dealer told me not to worry about the coolant leak or knock sensor; just to use 89 octane gas and keep an eye on the coolant level.
Any thoughts about the noise and the wisdom of hanging on to this vehicle greatly appreciated.
Worst possible scenario, your problems sound like at most $2,000. This PRESUMES the body is not all beat up. If the truck is trashed cosmetically, disregard what I say.
So $2,000 is how many new car payments? About 6 I'd say. So it seems worth it at 126K. Once the truck hits 175K, I'd probably tell you something different.
Get an estimate to fix this truck up just the way you want it, and then get out pencil and paper and figure out the costs per month vs. a new car w/ warranty. Figure if you are very unlucky you'll be paying maybe $50--$100 a month average to keep this truck in good repair and maintenance AFTER you've sunk in the $2,000.
Don't know about the noise--you have to have that diagnosed prior to making your decision.
Steve, Host
The Nissan owner's manual states the the level 1 recommendations is appropriate for stop&go driving, towing etc. I too thought that the first radiator flush at 4 yrs sounded too long but why would Nissan suggest this interval? Are they using a special additive or anti-freeze fluid? The lack of a definitive transmission fluid change interval also puzzled me. It simply recommends periodic inspection.
The Nissan manual does have a premium maintenance level for "ultimate" care which does include the 2yr/30K mi radiator flush and 4yr/60K mi transmission fluid change. But the manual also states that it is not necessary to use the premium maintenance schedule to maintain warranty coverage. I guess my basic question is am I wasting my money regarding the radiator flush and transmission fluid change if I follow the Premium service recommendation?
For example draining the transmission fluid, putting in a new filter every other year, or 15,000 miles (What can I say it's a Taurus and needs to be babied) vs the 3500 for the replacement transmission is a no brainer. I've had many cars with fussy tranny's and never had to replace one yet because of following that procedure, and that includes Mazda's 626 with their notorious failure rate, Dodge's that went out on a regular basis as well as the Fussy Ford mentioned above. So what if I spend about $65.00 every other year. Saves a lot in the long run and keeps the auto tranny running smoothly.
Radiators. There I haven't been as careful. Had to replace 2 over the years.. About $300--500 depending on the make and model. Personally, now I drain and refill every year, and have the radiator cleaned by a specialty shop every 3-4 years. It may not be the least expensive way to go, but I can guarantee to you that I can climb up that miserable Baker CA to Vegas Hill in the heat of the summer without flinching while vehicles are dying to the left and right of me.
But a larger problem is the Heater Core for your cabin heat. Japanese imports are notorious for having these clog up. And may run up to $1000.00 to repair since you have to get behing the dash or firewall. You keep your odds improved if you flush and refill with fresh fluid at least every other year.
My experience with older vehicles had shown that aggressive maintenance of radiators, transmissions, belts and hoses saves a lot of expense and frustration down the line.
But then again, for some strange reason I'd rather not be stranded in the desert.
Thanks!
SD
$230 sounded okay, but $872 is getting close to the value of the car. Also, if this is a fair price, how long can I go before repairing it? I won't have enough money to do it until October 1st. Most of my driving is at low speeds, but occasionally 45-50, which is just below when I feel the shimmy.
Thanks for your help.
You didn't hit a 1991 Dodge Truck...You hit a VERY expensive car that needs to be fixed PROPERLY and not have some Mickey Mouse job done on it!
You got off lucky...most people would have insisted on a new bumper on that type of car!
Insurance companies require 'em. You're a fool if you have any kind of accident and don't get one.
Call the police.
When they gave it back to me the ABS warning light and, some times, the brake light were on. I made a U turn and went back to complaint. They said just bring it back it is probably something we did not connect properly.
Now they tell me it is the ABS computer and it needs to be changes. I say they ruined it in the process but they say that is impossible and want me to pay $200 for a part that they would install for "free" as a token of good will.
Is it possible they shorted the system and fried the computer? One of their arguments is that they did not even opened the hood. What if they did not disconnect the battery and somehow caused a short circuit?
What do you think?
I have '05 Audi A4 2.0T and I've recently reached 5K milage plateau and I was wondering whats covered under the 5K maintenance package. Is it simply an oil change?
thanks