Too late now, but I learned many years ago to use anti-sieze compound. I was a service tech in the natural gas industry for many years and always worked on my own personal vehicles. The savings in labor(time) and parts was great.Don't use it everything, but always on spark plug threads. It boggles my mind why some mechanics don"t use it, after all, they may be working on the same thing sometime later on.
Try drain and refill 3 or 4 q or what in the pan. Drive couple thousand mi and see what happen. If end up with no problem do it again and again until you clean the trany. May be drop the pan and change the filter at some point. DO NOT AGREE ON FLASH.
I have read about people that buy new cars and do their own routine warranty maintenance. Now how exactly do they do this? I know how to change oil, brake pads, wiper blades, spark plugs, fan belts, and I can top off my own fluids. So unless it's something really complicated why do I need to go to the dealer and (in my opinion) over pay for this?
but, you should keep all receipts for the parts to help fight any denial of warranty claim they may try.
Problem is, if the manufacturers suggested maintenance includes "inspecting" something, and that something later fails, you can't prove that you did, in fact, inspect it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have a beautiful 1998 Cab with less than 30k miles, but recently developed a fuel odor in the trunk area. Had dealer check it, and after a week and many tests, including pressure, have not been able to locate the source. They agree that the odor is coming from somewhere but can't solve it. Anyone seen something like this?
I have a 2003 Sebring Covertible which I have enjoyed and want to trade it in while I am at break even and before I have to start pouring money into it. 2 weeks after the warantee was over Dec.31st, I had to replace two window motors, a week apart. I know there is appro. another 700.00 in maintenace repairs I must do, I forgot exactly what. The car has only 32,400 miles on it, I also put new michelin tires on it about this year. I looked at the Solara and quite honestly tho I know that toyota makes a great car, I am not so crazy about the bigness of it or the ride for a convertible. I prefer to be more solidly on the road and to feel it under me. the Solara flies. Also there just seems to me to be so much huge plastic body on it without moldings, and seems a bit clutzy. I like the idea of reliability and a new car..however, I like more the audi cabriolet, which I am considering. Here are my questions.
1. They will give me approx. 11,000. for my Sebring and thier car 2003 Beautiful condition, with 37000 miles, approx the same price as new toyota solara. I am concerned about the warranty and repairs. It is the 3 litre rather than the turbo engine, I saw a turbo engine too, a bit newer, less mileage, the ride seems to me because of its hestitancy on start up to have a trani problem!! I have been told by salesman that is the ride. What is this engine like? Is it worth buying or problems?? And how much problems and money would I expect to pay for the 2003 with 37,000 miles on it tho it LOOKS brand new. Thanks.. ????????
well, that wasn't so much help..it is cumbersome and i am looking for answers..is it true that a timing belt can cost 1600 dollars or did i misread it..can someone tell me what i can expect to pay in maintenace and repairs if i were to buy this car wiht 37,000 miles on it??
have you read the audi problems boards? I honestly don't think you want to buy a used audi if you are worried about the reliability and maintenance costs of your Chrysler.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks.. Is that right?? And therefore, why does anyone buy one then, if the rewards and the reliability are not there, what is the point? Just to spend extra money? And what about the warantee and the maintenance contract?? It will have 78 thousand miles left under warantee, so the way I understand I shouldn't have to pay anything, is this not the case???
Is "cabriolet" refering to A4 convertible? I don't know what your warranty covers, but Edmunds (as a part of their "true cost to own" figures) comes up with 5 year maintenance and repair cost of about $8300-8600 for a 2003 A4 convertible. For 2003 Sebring convertible they give an average cost of about $7000-7600.
As to why does anyone buy one? Probably because they like the way it looks and drives.
Thanks and yes, A4 Cabriolet convertible..So if the warantee is 6/yr 100,00 miles and it has 14,000 miles almost, then I would have the balance left of 86,000 miles. In that case, most things theoretically should be covered. I was wondering if all of the problems I was wondering if audi really fullfills the warantee because so many people here seem to be unhappy about service, and don't know what to expect, but if according to the figures you have posted above the maintenance is only 1,000 dollars difference to own a audi, well.....that makes more sense! I have never owned a german made car, and according to what I have heard and read here, I was worried about the HIGH cost of maintenance to own this car. I have seen that people here paid 4700 in one shot for repairs, I think a timing belt??? ..it kind of scared the hell out of me..so how can the figures be only 1,000...difference..?
Well that is an average. So, for example, suppose one out of 10 cars has a $5000 repair bill, that would be an average of $500 per vehicle.
Sounds like you would be getting remainder of 6 yr/100K extended warranty??? From what I understand extended warranties vary a lot in what they cover and deductible amounts (if any). So you would want to check carefully exactly what the warranty covers, if that is important to you.
Can't imagine a timing belt costing $4700...probably was an interference engine and had major engine damage due to timing belt breaking. If that is the case, the solution is to replace the timing belt long before it is at risk for breakage...like maybe at ~60K mi. You could call an Audi dealer and find out what the cost is for that specific repair.
I didn't know you were getting a warranty up to 100k. If that's the case, and it covers everything (i've heard audi/vw have bad electrical problems, so make sure its not a strict engine/trans warranty), then go for it if that's what you want. Just remember, you will STILL have to pay maintenance. But, yes, as far as strict maintenance goes, it would only be a bit more expensive than most other comparable vehicles. Its the repair costs that get you. So just dump it before the warranty is up.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
The problem with Audis is that they combine very high repair costs with very bad resale value...so if you add all that up together, it's hard to come out ahead on one in the long run.
Personally I wouldn't own one if it weren't covered under a good warranty. They drive great, have outstanding AWD systems and are strong safe comfortable cars....but not too many indy shops work on them and this throws you into dependence on the dealer.
If you live in the SF bay area I could hook you up with a great indy Audi shop.
Audis do drive well and their 4WD system works very well.
They have massive electrical problems and they are miserable cars to work on. They don't age well as the miles build up, they will suck your wallet dry.
When they need brakes, they will need rotors at the same time etc.
That said, as along as a potential buyer knows and accepts these things ahead of time, they can be great cars!
wow..thanks for all of your replies..It sounds like its only good as long as its under warantee and that is as far as I can trust it or throw it..lol..what a wonderful reference for a 45,000 car!! gee whiz..this is a bit overwhelming, to say the least..
I looked again at the toyota and I am not crazy about it. My brother suggests a new bmw..but I am still thinking about the whole thing..so, it sounds like as long as it is under warantee, it is ok..even tho it could be a pain timewise if its down much, is that it??
I have a 2004 A4 1.8t Cab that I bought new and has 52,500 miles on it. at 51,500 (past warr) I noticed the rear window separating from the top. Audi dealership sent pictures to the factory rep and then within a week notified me that they would cover the cost of the new top and the part had arrived. New top, car runs great. I was going to trade it in since I am out of Warr, but I now plan on keeping it until the A5 conv or something else comes out. Audi stood by their product and has won my endorsement. I think Audi's past has left an impression that is negative and has not been accurate in my case.
PS - No other issues or maintenance has been required above regular stuff.
and, just like you, there are thousands of satisfied customers motoring around. If they had problems with EVERY car they make, they'd be out of business. Thing is, you have to play the odds, and the odds are you will have lower reliability with the audi then with other comparable cars. If you already own one, you may never experience problems, but if you are shopping for one, the problems that some owners DO have could very well scare you away.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Personally, if I was buying one, I think I'd opt for the 1.8. Lighter and better balanced (although I've never experienced it in the heavier convertible), plus a simple chip and exhaust can make it faster than the V6 (although we are suggesting you only keep it with a warranty, so modding it is out of the question). And, of course, with gas where it is ...
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Well I have noticed from the consumer reports that they last two years statistics have changed dramatically from a lot of blacks to mostly reds..And your experience, Jz, tells me that is the difference. I am happy to hear from you two guys that problems is not all that there are to this car and it is amazing that Audi after warantee?? took care of the problem! Could I Expect more from BMW? I haven't researched them so I have no idea what the costs are, warantees, or other comps..
thanks..personally i like the way it drives better, but i don't see a newer model than o3 and also don't like paying much more for gas! someone told me to NOT buy a turbo, that if you are not meticulous with the engine, that it could blow up...
not true at all. Turbos are just as reliable as anything else. And the turbo itself will last the life of the car. Tell your buddy to do some research on vehicles after 1982.
There is just one thing you have to keep in mind and that's to not drive it like a race car and then turn it off directly afterwards. It needs to cool down a few minutes first. But, really, you should do that with any car, its just a little more important with a turbo.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I don't think the general consensus here was that Audis were BAD cars, but only that pound for pound, they cost more to maintain and repair---and speaking only for myself, I think that's a fair statement--based upon what Audi indy shops have always told me. So all this only becomes an issue IF the car breaks down or something big wears out.
I have no idea, but the 1.8t has been around for years before the Audi cab was introduced and has a history of lasting. Audi's issues are more electrical than engine based upon history.
I don't think turbos have posed a problem for a long while. The car is more of a cruiser than a sports car (due to weight), but can be sporting when needed. The CVT transmission takes some getting used to since there is no shifting involved. More sporting if it has the sports package with the bigger wheels and suspension (as mine does).
My advice is get the car checked out by a mechanic and if it has been well kept then there is no reason to stay away from it. It may turn out well, or it may not. Expect a few issues (little hopefully) with any vehicle.
Any 3-4 year old car will have some maintenance. Good luck and enjoy whatever car you get.
IMO, the big problems on Audi and VW products often start at 30-60,000 miles, so, when the car is 3-5 years old, the reliability rating might be likely to change from red to black.
This is my first time here and I can't figure out how to create my own forum. I apologize in advance for using someone elses to get my question answered. With that aside; I'm looking to purchase a 1990 Audi 200 which doesn't run. It has been sitting for 4 years and the current owners bought it with the expectation of fixing it but ran out of time. I can purchase it extremely cheap, but I'm not sure what it needs in addition to the basic tune up. Another problem is that it won't get out of gear. I won't be able to roll it in or out of a shop. Is there anyone who might be able to point me in the right direction?
I agree with jamie 100%. This is not a great car to begin with, and has very low resale value and very high repair costs (not a winning combination). You should be able to buy a clean, good running one for a very low price, so what's the point of buying a cripple?
I have a 2002 Isuzu Rodeo with 85k miles. Recently the Independent Suspension Control (ISC) light came on. This may be a stupid question but understand I am not a car guy. Should this be covered under the power train warranty? I would appreciate anyones answers Thanks.
I'd have to say odds are they will not cover it. The powertrain typically refers to strictly the engine, transmission, and differentials. Basically what is needed to put the power to the ground. The suspension is not included in that.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Sorry if I am in the wrong category but I am new to the site. I took in my 2003 Chevy Tracker today for a routine oil change at a national oil change business. The vehicle has 50,000 miles. I was told by a very young attendant to come out and see something of concern. He pointed out where he had disconnected a tube from a part of the engine (not the air filter) and showed me black soot. He stated this was the worse condition of fuel system deposit he had ever seen and that I needed a fuel system blowout for $80.00. I told him I would wait until next month for the service. Is this a trick? My Tracker runs great!
Sorry if I am in the wrong category but I am new to the site. I took in my 2003 Chevy Tracker today for a routine oil change at a national oil change business. The vehicle has 50,000 miles. I was told by a very young attendant to come out and see something of concern. He pointed out where he had disconnected a tube from a part of the engine (not the air filter) and showed me black soot. He stated this was the worse condition of fuel system deposit he had ever seen and that I needed
Well, he probably took the air intake off the upper intake manifold. This is a large (3 inch or more) tube going into the top of the motor. It carries air, after passing thru the air filter, into the intake manifold.
There is a large 'buttefly' valve in there. This is the main throttle for the vehicle. And yes, these do get dirty, but if the car is running ok, I would not have the service done.
The fuel deposits on the valve can cause sticking of the throttle or not closing fully which will cause high idle.
You can clean this yourself with some electrical cleaner, clean rags, old toothbrush. Use cleaner and the rags to wipe down the valve, both sides. Scrub with the toothbrush if needed. Clean especially where the valve contacts the outer cylinder as it closes.
I've got an idea these people might not even do this cleaning. I would never call this a 'blowout'. They might just run a can of fuel injector cleaner through the system or pour it into your gas tank, charge you $80 and send you on your way.
Does this place charge you several dollars for 1 or 2 oz of power steering and/or brake fluid each time they service your car? This is another way they rip you off. Check your receipt. Unless you have a leak, you will not need either each time you change your oil. But I've seen receipts where people are paying for these. As brakes 'wear', fluid is displaced into the system and a little might be added, but there usually is enough brake fluid that none is needed.
Yes, I have a '97 Cab and have the same problem but I have it in the passenger compartment. It's fairly mild though. Pressure tested the tank, replaced the fuel tank sending unit seal a couple of times ($250 a whack) and still have the odor.
At what point do you aim a gun at your car and shoot?
I'm not at that point yet (and don't own a gun), but I did a calculation today that was kind of shocking to me. One of our cars is a 1988 Oldsmobile 98 that we've owned for about 8.5 years. We bought it at 68k miles, and now it's at about 125k. In those eight and a half years, if I added correctly, we've spent about $9100 on repairs and maintenance for that car. I won't bore you with the list, but everything from tires, and many oil changes, to CV boots, radiators, harmonic balances, wheel assemblies, paint job, headliner, new stereo, etc., etc. The engine and transmission have been flawless. I actually really like the performance of the car. And the seats are comfortable, and look great even though I don't think the car has been garaged since the early 90s.
At the end of 2003 I asked a good mechanic to go through the whole car and check for anything that needed to be repaired or replaced that was a significant performance or safety issue. That was about $2000.
Since then, repairs and maintenance have been only $200-400 a year.
But now the ac seems to be having power outages on hot days. The whole ac panel blinks on and off, and sometimes the stereo doesn't work. I checked the fuses and they seemed to be ok (but should I replace the relevant ones anyway?), and we've also had it into the local gas station (which does most of the work on it) and they couldn't find anything.
In 2003 it was probably only worth $1200! Now, about $700 (both according to the Edmunds resale value calculator). In 2003, however, I did not have money for a new car. I've got it now, and could buy a 20k car without even getting a loan.
But....My ten-year old son LOVES the Oldsmobile. And copying him, so does my almost 5 year old daughter. If I shoot the car Daddy becames a major bad guy. I mean if the transmission conked out, I'd have the guts to say that's it. But when it's another $200 here, or even $400 there, I don't think the social costs are quite worth it. I've tried to tell my son that cars wear out, and he realizes that, but he thinks of it like a pet. Plus, with all of the money we've put into it, I want to get some of my use value out of it. Even though I can afford a new car now, I want to make the best financial decision. Which is surely shoot it if something major comes up, but perhaps not right now.
But if, back in 1998, I could have afforded a new Accord, even a DX without AC, I surely would have saved myself a lot of headaches, and would almost certainly be ahead at this point: I'd have a car with some future and with some resale value.
The car is actually quite nice. It's powerful, gets decent mpg, is huge inside (EPA rated 111 in interior volume, compared to about 102 for my other Car, a 2002 Accord), and the AC on the Olds--when it works--is like getting into a walk-in refrigerator (it's a lot better than ac today's cars). The AC is digital, I guess. It has an electronic panel where you can dial it to the exact temp you'd like, 70, say, and it will keep it there.
The repairs on this car has pretty much made me swear off of used cars. For my next car I plan to buy another Accord, and get the 8 year extended warranty from Honda.
Edmunds has this feature called Total Cost to Own (TCO), which I think is interesting, and which has made me feel a little better (not much, but a little) about all of the money we've poured into our Olds.
On TCO, you can get estimates of the annual maintenance and repair costs for almost any new vehicle. For instance, for a new Honda Accord VP the first four years of maintenance and repair are estimated to cost about $2400--or $600 a year. The first year, the costs are almost nothing (a couple of oil changes, I assume), but each year the costs creep up. By the 5th year, TCO estimates that maintenance and repairs, even on an Accord VP, could go up to about $1200--for just one year. The estimates don't go past the 5th year, but I assume they mostly level out at that point and are estimated to remain at about $1000-1200 a year.
Well, if you take the shocking figure of $9100 that we've spent on maintenance and repair and divide it by the 8.5 years we've owned the Olds, you get a yearly average of about $1070. It's still shocking, but it seems to be about what Edmunds estimates for the average repair and maintenance for a car that's not new.
Interestingly, on our 2002 Accord LX we seem to have beaten the estimates. I don't have the Edmunds TCO for that year, but I assume they would have been similar to what they are for the 2006 Accord VP. Following the recommended maintenance in the manual, and having all off the work done by the Honda dealer (except for a new set of top-of-the-line tires from Goodyear), we have a 4 year cost for maintenance and repair of only $990--less than $250 a year! The TCO estimates 4 year maintenance and repair at about $2400, and so we're way ahead there.
I do wonder, however, if many people do actually pay something like the $1200 a year that Edmunds estimates starting in the 5th year....That seems rather high, especially for a Honda.
One of our cars is a 1988 Oldsmobile 98 that we've owned for about 8.5 years
Hey, just a few more years and you can get "classic car" plates...at least in my state, the criteria is 25 years old. Unless you really meant to say a 1998 Olds 88 .
I would not use this as a reason to swear off used cars, this car was already 10 years old when you bought it...even though the mileage was low. But if you tend to keep cars forever, it really does not cost all that much more to buy new, imo.
I would say your repair/maintenace costs have been high. I keep records of everything spent on our cars and generally has run between 6-12 cents per mile...excluding the first 50,000-60,000 miles on those that were bought new. And we have not had cars that were known for "reliability" (86 Horizon, 89 Voyager, 97 Windstar, 95 Contour, and 96 Contour, 91 Sentra).
I would not have spent $2000 in one shot on an old car, but I did end up doing about that on the 96 Contour last year...but, it was a series of problems. First timing belt about $600, then $900 for several miscellaneous items (O2 sensor, EGR, PCV, battery, fuel inj cleaning, etc.), then $150 for pulley and belt, then $200 ball joint, then $100 resonator.
If I had been told a year ago that it would cost $2000 to fix the car, I think I would have been done with it. It is now my son's car and as long as it keeps going, without major expenses it is worth it to him to keep it.
Don't forget the "opportunity cost" of a new car. If you pay cash for a $20,000 car, this cost is about $1000 per year, since you could get 5% interest from a money market fund.
We have dumped 3 cars in 20+ years: one because of significant body damage and rust, the second because every gasket was leaking and the oil finally looked like chocolate milk one day, and the third because it had an engine fire.
Well, after spending the $2,000 about 3 years ago (if that is all you've spent on repairs), you haven't done too badly. That would be less than $700 per year in repairs.
Speaking as someone with NO kids, I don't think allowing 10 and 5 year old kids to make decisions about automotive buying, selling, repairing, etc is something that should be done.
Speaking as someone with NO kids, I don't think allowing 10 and 5 year old kids to make decisions about automotive buying, selling, repairing, etc is something that should be done.
As someone with three kids (young adults and teenagers now), I agree.
Mostly I agree that kids shouldn't be involved when it comes to the important decisions on cars. My son was kind of fond of our Jetta, but when it came time to get rid of that lemon, I did it. He was also fond of our Focus ZTS, but another lemon was traded away. I would have gotten rid of the Olds in 2003, but we were not yet in the position to buy a new car. And for $2000 there didn't seem to be any used car out there that was as good as our Olds would be after the repair. Also, as I said, I'd mostly sworn off of used cars.
Here we are in 2006, however, and although I have the money to buy a new Accord, it seems like there's still some life left in the Olds. The AC problem seems to be fixed for the present by just avoiding the "MAX" setting. In "NORM" it seems to work fine. The original mistake of buying and repairing the car over many years was one that my wife and I made together, but at this point it seems a bit wasteful for people who aren't rich to get rid of a car that seems ok just because it needs a small repair. I mean at this point it has new tires, a new battery, belts, hoses, radiator, newly tuned, new brakes, etc. etc, etc.., all done in the last three years. Since I doubt I could sell it for more than $700-800, there's not much gain to be had by getting rid of it.
If I had the decision to do over again I would have told myself to buy a stripper Accord DX back in 1998 (my credit was good, and I probably could have financed it), but since we didn't, and since we've now fixed the car (mostly) I'm not sure buying new is the best thing financially until something major comes up on the Olds.
But the fact that my kids love the car does factor into that decision a little. I think it's the right thing financially to keep the Olds (for the time being), but I wouldn't mind having a new toy Accord if I knew my kids would be happy to say goodbye to the Olds. But just as adults can develop attachments to cars, kids can too, and it seems to me a little heartless in our particular situation to ignore that, esp. when it seems to be the best thing to do financially to see if the thing will last a bit longer. I'm somewhat eager to see the new 2008 Accords, although I'm reluctant to buy the first year of an all-new model, even when it's a Honda.
Anyway, far too much rambling here!
In the long run, my personal situation has led me to the belief that buying a new Accord is better than buying an old Olds in terms of repairs, costs, quality of life, etc. There's no doubt there!
Comments
Drive couple thousand mi and see what happen. If end up with no problem do it again and again until you clean the trany. May be drop the pan and change the filter at some point. DO NOT AGREE ON FLASH.
but, you should keep all receipts for the parts to help fight any denial of warranty claim they may try.
Problem is, if the manufacturers suggested maintenance includes "inspecting" something, and that something later fails, you can't prove that you did, in fact, inspect it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have a 2003 Sebring Covertible which I have enjoyed and want to trade it in while I am at break even and before I have to start pouring money into it. 2 weeks after the warantee was over Dec.31st, I had to replace two window motors, a week apart. I know there is appro. another 700.00 in maintenace repairs I must do, I forgot exactly what. The car has only 32,400 miles on it, I also put new michelin tires on it about this year. I looked at the Solara and quite honestly tho I know that toyota makes a great car, I am not so crazy about the bigness of it or the ride for a convertible. I prefer to be more solidly on the road and to feel it under me. the Solara flies. Also there just seems to me to be so much huge plastic body on it without moldings, and seems a bit clutzy. I like the idea of reliability and a new car..however, I like more the audi cabriolet, which I am considering. Here are my questions.
1. They will give me approx. 11,000. for my Sebring and thier car 2003 Beautiful condition, with 37000 miles, approx the same price as new toyota solara. I am concerned about the warranty and repairs. It is the 3 litre rather than the turbo engine, I saw a turbo engine too, a bit newer, less mileage, the ride seems to me because of its hestitancy on start up to have a trani problem!! I have been told by salesman that is the ride. What is this engine like? Is it worth buying or problems??
And how much problems and money would I expect to pay for the 2003 with 37,000 miles on it tho it LOOKS brand new.
Thanks..
????????
yaffa
http://www.edmunds.com/tmv/used/index.html
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
That Chrysler will be a dream to maintain compared to an Audi!
Is that right?? And therefore, why does anyone buy one then, if the rewards and the reliability are not there, what is the point? Just to spend extra money? And what about the warantee and the maintenance contract?? It will have 78 thousand miles left under warantee, so the way I understand I shouldn't have to pay anything, is this not the case???
As to why does anyone buy one? Probably because they like the way it looks and drives.
Thanks and yes, A4 Cabriolet convertible..So if the warantee is 6/yr 100,00 miles and it has 14,000 miles almost, then I would have the balance left of 86,000 miles. In that case, most things theoretically should be covered. I was wondering if all of the problems I was wondering if audi really fullfills the warantee because so many people here seem to be unhappy about service, and don't know what to expect, but if according to the figures you have posted above the maintenance is only 1,000 dollars difference to own a audi, well.....that makes more sense! I have never owned a german made car, and according to what I have heard and read here, I was worried about the HIGH cost of maintenance to own this car. I have seen that people here paid 4700 in one shot for repairs, I think a timing belt??? ..it kind of scared the hell out of me..so how can the figures be only 1,000...difference..?
Sounds like you would be getting remainder of 6 yr/100K extended warranty??? From what I understand extended warranties vary a lot in what they cover and deductible amounts (if any). So you would want to check carefully exactly what the warranty covers, if that is important to you.
Can't imagine a timing belt costing $4700...probably was an interference engine and had major engine damage due to timing belt breaking. If that is the case, the solution is to replace the timing belt long before it is at risk for breakage...like maybe at ~60K mi. You could call an Audi dealer and find out what the cost is for that specific repair.
Just know what you are getting into.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Personally I wouldn't own one if it weren't covered under a good warranty. They drive great, have outstanding AWD systems and are strong safe comfortable cars....but not too many indy shops work on them and this throws you into dependence on the dealer.
If you live in the SF bay area I could hook you up with a great indy Audi shop.
They have massive electrical problems and they are miserable cars to work on. They don't age well as the miles build up, they will suck your wallet dry.
When they need brakes, they will need rotors at the same time etc.
That said, as along as a potential buyer knows and accepts these things ahead of time, they can be great cars!
I looked again at the toyota and I am not crazy about it.
My brother suggests a new bmw..but I am still thinking about the whole thing..so, it sounds like as long as it is under warantee, it is ok..even tho it could be a pain timewise if its down much, is that it??
PS - No other issues or maintenance has been required above regular stuff.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Well I have noticed from the consumer reports that they last two years statistics have changed dramatically from a lot of blacks to mostly reds..And your experience, Jz, tells me that is the difference. I am happy to hear from you two guys that problems is not all that there are to this car and it is amazing that Audi after warantee?? took care of the problem!
Could I Expect more from BMW? I haven't researched them so I have no idea what the costs are, warantees, or other comps..
There is just one thing you have to keep in mind and that's to not drive it like a race car and then turn it off directly afterwards. It needs to cool down a few minutes first. But, really, you should do that with any car, its just a little more important with a turbo.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I don't think turbos have posed a problem for a long while. The car is more of a cruiser than a sports car (due to weight), but can be sporting when needed. The CVT transmission takes some getting used to since there is no shifting involved. More sporting if it has the sports package with the bigger wheels and suspension (as mine does).
My advice is get the car checked out by a mechanic and if it has been well kept then there is no reason to stay away from it. It may turn out well, or it may not. Expect a few issues (little hopefully) with any vehicle.
Any 3-4 year old car will have some maintenance. Good luck and enjoy whatever car you get.
Especially since you apparently have no mechanical ability to 'do it yourself'?
Audi are known for various problems and also expensive to repair.
No upside here that I can spot.
This may be a stupid question but understand I am not a car guy.
Should this be covered under the power train warranty?
I would appreciate anyones answers
Thanks.
I'd have to say odds are they will not cover it. The powertrain typically refers to strictly the engine, transmission, and differentials. Basically what is needed to put the power to the ground. The suspension is not included in that.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
There is a large 'buttefly' valve in there. This is the main throttle for the vehicle. And yes, these do get dirty, but if the car is running ok, I would not have the service done.
The fuel deposits on the valve can cause sticking of the throttle or not closing fully which will cause high idle.
You can clean this yourself with some electrical cleaner, clean rags, old toothbrush. Use cleaner and the rags to wipe down the valve, both sides. Scrub with the toothbrush if needed. Clean especially where the valve contacts the outer cylinder as it closes.
I've got an idea these people might not even do this cleaning. I would never call this a 'blowout'. They might just run a can of fuel injector cleaner through the system or pour it into your gas tank, charge you $80 and send you on your way.
Does this place charge you several dollars for 1 or 2 oz of power steering and/or brake fluid each time they service your car? This is another way they rip you off. Check your receipt. Unless you have a leak, you will not need either each time you change your oil. But I've seen receipts where people are paying for these. As brakes 'wear', fluid is displaced into the system and a little might be added, but there usually is enough brake fluid that none is needed.
I'm not at that point yet (and don't own a gun), but I did a calculation today that was kind of shocking to me. One of our cars is a 1988 Oldsmobile 98 that we've owned for about 8.5 years. We bought it at 68k miles, and now it's at about 125k. In those eight and a half years, if I added correctly, we've spent about $9100 on repairs and maintenance for that car. I won't bore you with the list, but everything from tires, and many oil changes, to CV boots, radiators, harmonic balances, wheel assemblies, paint job, headliner, new stereo, etc., etc. The engine and transmission have been flawless. I actually really like the performance of the car. And the seats are comfortable, and look great even though I don't think the car has been garaged since the early 90s.
At the end of 2003 I asked a good mechanic to go through the whole car and check for anything that needed to be repaired or replaced that was a significant performance or safety issue. That was about $2000.
Since then, repairs and maintenance have been only $200-400 a year.
But now the ac seems to be having power outages on hot days. The whole ac panel blinks on and off, and sometimes the stereo doesn't work. I checked the fuses and they seemed to be ok (but should I replace the relevant ones anyway?), and we've also had it into the local gas station (which does most of the work on it) and they couldn't find anything.
New battery, perhaps?
In 2003 you put $2,000 into a car worth about $2,000. And afterwards it was still worth about $2,000.
A/C problems, dash electrical problems (a digital dash?), and stereo problems. It's not worth fixing these things...
In my opinion.
But....My ten-year old son LOVES the Oldsmobile. And copying him, so does my almost 5 year old daughter. If I shoot the car Daddy becames a major bad guy. I mean if the transmission conked out, I'd have the guts to say that's it. But when it's another $200 here, or even $400 there, I don't think the social costs are quite worth it. I've tried to tell my son that cars wear out, and he realizes that, but he thinks of it like a pet. Plus, with all of the money we've put into it, I want to get some of my use value out of it. Even though I can afford a new car now, I want to make the best financial decision. Which is surely shoot it if something major comes up, but perhaps not right now.
But if, back in 1998, I could have afforded a new Accord, even a DX without AC, I surely would have saved myself a lot of headaches, and would almost certainly be ahead at this point: I'd have a car with some future and with some resale value.
The car is actually quite nice. It's powerful, gets decent mpg, is huge inside (EPA rated 111 in interior volume, compared to about 102 for my other Car, a 2002 Accord), and the AC on the Olds--when it works--is like getting into a walk-in refrigerator (it's a lot better than ac today's cars). The AC is digital, I guess. It has an electronic panel where you can dial it to the exact temp you'd like, 70, say, and it will keep it there.
The repairs on this car has pretty much made me swear off of used cars. For my next car I plan to buy another Accord, and get the 8 year extended warranty from Honda.
On TCO, you can get estimates of the annual maintenance and repair costs for almost any new vehicle. For instance, for a new Honda Accord VP the first four years of maintenance and repair are estimated to cost about $2400--or $600 a year. The first year, the costs are almost nothing (a couple of oil changes, I assume), but each year the costs creep up. By the 5th year, TCO estimates that maintenance and repairs, even on an Accord VP, could go up to about $1200--for just one year. The estimates don't go past the 5th year, but I assume they mostly level out at that point and are estimated to remain at about $1000-1200 a year.
Well, if you take the shocking figure of $9100 that we've spent on maintenance and repair and divide it by the 8.5 years we've owned the Olds, you get a yearly average of about $1070. It's still shocking, but it seems to be about what Edmunds estimates for the average repair and maintenance for a car that's not new.
Interestingly, on our 2002 Accord LX we seem to have beaten the estimates. I don't have the Edmunds TCO for that year, but I assume they would have been similar to what they are for the 2006 Accord VP. Following the recommended maintenance in the manual, and having all off the work done by the Honda dealer (except for a new set of top-of-the-line tires from Goodyear), we have a 4 year cost for maintenance and repair of only $990--less than $250 a year! The TCO estimates 4 year maintenance and repair at about $2400, and so we're way ahead there.
I do wonder, however, if many people do actually pay something like the $1200 a year that Edmunds estimates starting in the 5th year....That seems rather high, especially for a Honda.
Hey, just a few more years and you can get "classic car" plates...at least in my state, the criteria is 25 years old. Unless you really meant to say a 1998 Olds 88
I would not use this as a reason to swear off used cars, this car was already 10 years old when you bought it...even though the mileage was low. But if you tend to keep cars forever, it really does not cost all that much more to buy new, imo.
I would say your repair/maintenace costs have been high. I keep records of everything spent on our cars and generally has run between 6-12 cents per mile...excluding the first 50,000-60,000 miles on those that were bought new. And we have not had cars that were known for "reliability" (86 Horizon, 89 Voyager, 97 Windstar, 95 Contour, and 96 Contour, 91 Sentra).
I would not have spent $2000 in one shot on an old car, but I did end up doing about that on the 96 Contour last year...but, it was a series of problems. First timing belt about $600, then $900 for several miscellaneous items (O2 sensor, EGR, PCV, battery, fuel inj cleaning, etc.), then $150 for pulley and belt, then $200 ball joint, then $100 resonator.
If I had been told a year ago that it would cost $2000 to fix the car, I think I would have been done with it. It is now my son's car and as long as it keeps going, without major expenses it is worth it to him to keep it.
Don't forget the "opportunity cost" of a new car. If you pay cash for a $20,000 car, this cost is about $1000 per year, since you could get 5% interest from a money market fund.
We have dumped 3 cars in 20+ years: one because of significant body damage and rust, the second because every gasket was leaking and the oil finally looked like chocolate milk one day, and the third because it had an engine fire.
Speaking as someone with NO kids, I don't think allowing 10 and 5 year old kids to make decisions about automotive buying, selling, repairing, etc is something that should be done.
As someone with three kids (young adults and teenagers now), I agree.
Here we are in 2006, however, and although I have the money to buy a new Accord, it seems like there's still some life left in the Olds. The AC problem seems to be fixed for the present by just avoiding the "MAX" setting. In "NORM" it seems to work fine. The original mistake of buying and repairing the car over many years was one that my wife and I made together, but at this point it seems a bit wasteful for people who aren't rich to get rid of a car that seems ok just because it needs a small repair. I mean at this point it has new tires, a new battery, belts, hoses, radiator, newly tuned, new brakes, etc. etc, etc.., all done in the last three years. Since I doubt I could sell it for more than $700-800, there's not much gain to be had by getting rid of it.
If I had the decision to do over again I would have told myself to buy a stripper Accord DX back in 1998 (my credit was good, and I probably could have financed it), but since we didn't, and since we've now fixed the car (mostly) I'm not sure buying new is the best thing financially until something major comes up on the Olds.
But the fact that my kids love the car does factor into that decision a little. I think it's the right thing financially to keep the Olds (for the time being), but I wouldn't mind having a new toy Accord if I knew my kids would be happy to say goodbye to the Olds. But just as adults can develop attachments to cars, kids can too, and it seems to me a little heartless in our particular situation to ignore that, esp. when it seems to be the best thing to do financially to see if the thing will last a bit longer. I'm somewhat eager to see the new 2008 Accords, although I'm reluctant to buy the first year of an all-new model, even when it's a Honda.
Anyway, far too much rambling here!
In the long run, my personal situation has led me to the belief that buying a new Accord is better than buying an old Olds in terms of repairs, costs, quality of life, etc. There's no doubt there!